Been searching for 3 weeks to find out why my 300BLK won't cycle correctly and this is the only video that gave an extremely easy way to diagnose and what to do to fix it! This guy knows his stuff.
I’m having cycling issues with my 8.5in .300blk (failure to eject spent case) and jamming the spent case with the next bullet , what buffer did you go with ? I order and am waiting on a H3 , did changing it fix it completely for you ? And what were you jams like ?
Its ejecting forward, not because of brass hitting the brass deflector, but brass being ejected and the bolt cycles to FAST, then the head of the bolt hits it forward to the 2 o'clock position. Fixable with heavier buffer and/or flat wire buffer spring.
I love the easy to use adjustable buffer weights. Crazy that so many people have no clue about them and go through the guessing process of purchasing a set buffer weight.
Great data in a short concise manner and explains well enough to grasp the concept which no one has been able to explain to m before. The ejection pattern of the brass enlightening...
Only thing i would add is to try the buffer with the weakest ammo you fire (steel cased .223 is usually the most underpowered, also try with the heaviest weight bullet, so if you use 77gr smk, try those too) that way you make sure the gun will function with it and also give you some wiggle room for a dirty rifle firing something like m193,m855 etc
i'm in the middle of 2 new 5.56 builds. A 16 inch and a 10.5". I just finished the lower ends and I put Geissele Super 42 Springs with H2 buffers in both. I'm certain that will be good on the 10.5 inch, but I'm worried about 16 inch. I will probably switch out the spring in one of my other AR rifles and see what happens. I hope it works out. The Super 42 spring & buffer sets are $100 a piece.
I really don't know how you can do a video on "picking the right buffer" without also including at least as much info on finding the right buffer spring. The 2 work in concert with each other, and we would have learned ALOT more by you showing how to correctly select each so they work in tandem correctly.
Wow...I may be ordering some buffers. I'm on my second build. 8.3 in. BA with 750 gas port chambered in 300 blk. I ordered an Aero Precision enhanced buffer kit with an H3 thinking it would need that for standard velocity .300 blk. Will give it a try but this video gives me a guide for where to go if it isn't right.
h2 is underkill. h4 for pistols. h2-h3 for intermediate gas rifle length gas is harder to say since the rifle buffer fixed stock is already 5ish oz which is less than the h3.
Great info. I'm running an Aero Precision M4E1 8" 300BLK upper/lower w/Maxim Defense CQB-PDW w/Standard buffer. I use 115gr. supersonics for defensive purposes. Just got an H1 buffer delivered today. Did a 6 rd. function check and the difference in ejection pattern is more consistently 3-4 o'clock.... Wasn't bad before, but I knew it could be a bit better. Keep the vids comin'. Appreciate the info.
why on earth would you ever get out of the gun game?LOL I just got into it about 8yrs ago and still consider my self a greeny! I have tons of questions and want to be able to build my own upper?!!! LOL Just afrade to mess it up! the stuff costs too much to have an oopsy!LOL
Nice. Looks like a new intro. Still haven't fired the rifle i just finished except for the optic but i went with the super 42 and H1 and got the extra weight just in case. Always enjoy the info keep up the good work sir.
Hi Dave, I love the channel and have learned a lot thank you. I have a question regarding ejection pattern. I have a 16" mid-length barrel with a gas port size of .076, I have a M16 bcg with sprinco springs in the upper, my upper has no shell deflector and with an H buffer and Blue sprinco spring it ejects around 5:00. If I had a shell deflector would this be ejecting at the correct 3 to 4:00 range. The rifle is very reliable with all ammo. Basically, is everything okay. Thank you for your time and help.
I've got a retro Dissipator (16.5" barrel, rifle length gas system, rifle stock, spring, and buffer tube) that consistently short cycles with a full size rifle buffer installed. I got it running properly by installing a 3 oz CAR buffer. I'm going to test it with a 4.6 oz CAR buffer to see if still works.
@@Allenmar73 The 3 oz buffer works fine, but I have not yet tested the 4.6 oz buffer. Since you asked, I'll try to test it today and let you know how it works.
@@Allenmar73 I just ran a test with the 3 oz and 4.6 oz buffers and could not tell any difference in felt recoil, speed, reliability, or ejection pattern (around 4 o'clock). Both worked fine, but I'm going to keep the 4.6 oz buffer in the rifle for now.
@@Paladin1873 .. Thanks for the report. I got one also and still testing buffers and ammo. I've had some failure to hold open on last round and also some fails to pick up and chamber rounds. Did you build your upper or go with a factory complete?
@@Allenmar73 This rifle started out as a Frankengun I bought off Gun Broker. I stripped it down for parts, but reused the lower receiver and M16A1 rifle barrel that a previous owner had cut down to 16.5". From this and a mix of old and new period correct parts I cobbled together a clone of the original early style Dissipator, except for not making the barrel 15" long. The early Dissipators had reliability issues due to the pairing of a rifle buffer, buffer spring, and buffer tube with a barrel that lacked sufficient gas pressure dwell time because the gas port was too close to the muzzle. I overcame this problem with a CAR buffer. If this approach doesn't work for you and you want to retain the early style rifle stock setup, try using a CAR buffer spring and CAR buffer. Because the CAR buffer spring is shorter than the rifle buffer spring, be sure to block the excess space inside the rifle buffer tube with a solid material (plastic, wood dowel) so that the inside dimensions of the rifle buffer tube matches the inside dimensions of a CAR buffer tube. Don't use a CAR spring without this buffer or you may have premature unlocking of the bolt or excessive bolt velocity that could damage the buffer tube. If this does not work, you might try swapping your BCG with a lightweight BCG.
Hi Dave, I have been a subscriber for a while and want to thank you for all you do. You have helped me many times when I had no idea what I was doing. My question was when do I need to change out my buffer and what are the signs, before it is too late. Thank you for your time and help.
Hi there Thank you for watching and your comment. Look for wear on the face and edges of the coating. Also check the back rubber impact surface as they can crack or get brittle. Other than that they last a long time. Some of my old guns have a crap load of rounds, a few barre swaps and the buffer is fine. Spring should be swapped out every so often depending on length.
@@GunsandTactics Thank you for your help and quick response. I will double check those area's on the buffer and change it out if it is needed. Thank you again.
Hi Dave, I have a slick side AR it has always ran perfectly, ejecting the brass or steel around 3:30 or 4:00 o'clock in a nice pile. I recently installed a brand new bolt, and shot six rounds of cheap 55 grain Tula, it cycled and locked back just fine but the shells where in a pile in the 5 o'clock position. Is this a problem. Should I be concerned. Thank you for your time and help.
@@GunsandTactics Hi Dave, thank you for your response. Your right Tula is junk. I know my question was a bit persnickety but this rifle is my go to, I need it to run right all the time. I guess I should take it easy with the Tula. But, I want to thank you for all that you do. You have helped me many times. Have a Blessed Day
I know this video is a year old but I had a question about possibly creating a calculator for builders. If all variables are known such as gas port size, barrel length, gas system length, chamber size (caliber i.e 5.56x45), buffer tube length, and lastly bolt carrier weight wouldn't it be possible to make a simple calculator that would be able to inform you of a "balanced" gas system and dwell time as well as what buffer weight and spring tension to use? In example: • gas port - 0.750 • barrel length - 16" • gas system - mid • chamber - 5.56 • buffer tube length - standard • bolt carrier mass - 11.6oz aka 3/4 pound aka 0.725 pounds aka 5.26 KG With this info you could simply plug it into a calculator and it would provide appropriate buffer weights, spring rates, and dwell time estimation. Why is this not a thing?
Glad I found this video. Which buffer weight would you recommend for a Daniel Defense 14.5 pin and welded? Shooting it at the range today and the cycling sounded loud in the tube area. Thanks again!
Just a little add on to this with a little bit of WHY is that - you try to use the lightest buffer possible that will give you the best ejection ie 3-4 o'clock because the heavier the buffer = more mass bouncing around in your buffer tube which also = more recoil impulse... So that's why you just don't jump up to a heavier buffer unless you really need to. So basically you want to use the lightest buffer possible that your gun will cycle reliably.. amirite!? And good video G!
Need some help. for someone with 3 cals. 556, 7.62x39, and 50 beowulf, what buffer can they use to work well in all 3? stag 3g competition rifle. 18 in for the 556. 16 in for the 762 and 50. The person is looking to create nice flat shooter and reliable. rifle length tube with H1 buffer at this time. they would like to go to carbine tube and buffer if there are no negatives associated with doing so for this particular set up. TIA
Gun cycling same lower, but 3 different uppers Q: Any changes recommended spring type, or buffer type/weight between. 22LR, 5.56mm/223, (300BO with and WO Suppressor). Biggest problem of course is the 22LR upper. PS it is a dedicated upper not a conversion setup. Very few issues suppressed on 223/5.56 & 300BO
Good info. I've got an ar pistol that I believe is short stroking but I'm not 100% on that cuz it runs a few rounds then has issues all the sudden. Right off the top of my head I'm thinking there is an issue at the gas block and not so much a buffer issue. This project is currently sitting in the corner and I just need to seek help and get it handled. Thanks for this info though, very helpful.
Building a AR SBR with a 10.3 barrel to shoot 5.56. So buffer, what do you reccommend? Yes I know 5.56 and a 300 ACC subsonic blackout would be preferred but why not right.
What would be the problem if the gun does shoot but don't eject the empty case? Is happening with my 10" .300 blackout rifle. I did the 1 round test & that's what happens. I thought it was the 5.56 mag I was using so I bought a mag for .300 blackout but it still happening. The BCG stay open after the shot but when I send it forward it gets stuck so I have to start smashing against the table so it eject the empty case. It's not from a specific company or brand & I have it for home defense only. Also where I live suppressor are ilegal so I won't be using any. I already bought a H3 buffer from BCM to see if that's the problem, but I just wanted to ask while I await its arrival in 1 week.
This may be a dumb question. If a buffer is functioning properly, shouldn't the buffer become hor or at least warm up after firing a full magazine? Where does the energy go? Industrial buffers get hot with use. Thanks.
My barrel manufacturer went out of business and I haven’t been able to get their recommendation for the correct Buffer weight. It’s an Olympic Arms XM177E2 Barrel in SS 5.56 and 11.5 inches.
I would start with an H2 buffer. I run an H2 in my ballistic advantage 11.5” (gas port on mine is .078 which is on the smaller size compared to most manufacturers so yours is probably closer to .080+)... to test use the weakest ammo you shoot (usually steel case .223 is the weakest out there), load 1-2 rounds, make sure the gun will fire and lock back on the mag. If ejection is at about your 4’oclock you should be good. If it doesnt lock back you can step down to an H buffer, if ejection is 3’oclock - 1’oclock try an H3 buffer. You want the lightest buffer you can find that will reliably cycle your gun with the weakest ammo you shoot.
Im trying to go back n fourth from a 300blk 8.5 inch and a 5 inch 556 223. Is that possible and what buffer would work if so????? Please help???? And would a micro buffer work with the 8.5 inch 300blk???
I have a Barrel Length: 10.5" Barrel Profile: A2 Gas System: Carbine-length Barrel Steel: 4150V Chrome Moly Vanadium And a aero precision m4e1 carbine complete lower Which buffer is the best choice?
So what do I use on this setup would you guess? KAK 12.5 Inch 308 barrel shooting suppressed and a binary or Rare Breed Triggers but always supersonic ammo.
First thing I would do is check to see what the manufacturer recommends and start from there being that you are shooting suppressed you could go heavier as well
Doubt ill get any sort of response, but I bought a 7.5in barrel ar15 and want to swap the pistol buffer tube on it for a regular buffer tube, would I need to buy a new spring and buffer? or could I get away with just getting the tube itself? If not what sized buffer should I get for this size firearm?
Get the correct size buffer and spring for the tube you are using or u can have the carrier slam into the back of ur lower. The carrier will slam into the carrier side of where your buffer screws in. If you get the “regular” buffer tube called the carbine length buffer tube. Your will want to get a carbine length buffer. I found H1 to be the best all around if you don’t know what ur gonna be shooting. But H2 works good for shorties if ur using 556. But if to heavy with weak ammo or small gas port you will short stroke. I would start with an H1. And if it’s still to much gas. You can buy a second tungsten weight to add to your h1 making it an h2. If you learn a bit more look into a5 buffer. It’s a bit more complex but a lot of benifits. I’d say stick with carbine tube, carbine spring, and carbine H1 buffer for now. Good luck.
@@seanolson7854 Idk if I messed up or not but I bought the aero precision ar15/m4 carbine kit with the H2 buffer for a 7.5" .223 wylde that will be shooting both 5.56 and .223 but mainly 5.56. Also I have a 3 oz carbine buffer currently if the h2 is too heavy, but that would probably be too light? I'm new to building/swapping parts out and only know the very basics of ARs so I'm pretty unsure on a lot of this.
So h2 buffer for 7.5 556 ar15 ? Please lmk I'm have double feeding issues so I'm thinking .over gassed when slow shooting it shoots ok but when shooting faster that's when I start running in to the double feeding I have standard that came with brace
Great video-thank you! However, I am confused by something you said. Because a SBR has higher pressure we could use a heavier buffer. You stated that firing with a suppressor lengthens the barrel and creates more pressure: use a heavier buffer. Assuming that the suppressor, in effect, creates a standard barrel length...why shouldn’t we be using a heavier buffer on all our rifles. Or did I misunderstand the point you were making on the use of suppressors?
The suppressor adds pressure, generally longer barrels have different sized gas ports. So while yes the suppressor adds length and allows higher pressure it didn’t change or reduce the gas port. You don’t want a heavier buffer by practice as it is more reciprocating mass and thus more recoil.
The gas port size on a 16” barrel is going to be around .065, on an 11.5” it will be around .080 so when you add a suppressor the 11.5” is allowing more gas to go through the tube and act on the bolt carrier. (There is also the factor of dwell time...the time between when the bullet passes the gas port and it exits the barrel. That is the amount of time that gas is going back through the gas port, because it is a shorter amount of time on an SBR you need a larger gas port to allow enough gas to cycle the action. Adding the suppressor effectively increases the dwell time. So an SBR with a suppressor due to its increased gas port is allowing much more gas to act on the carrier than a similarly length barrel would.)
Maxim wants $35 for than standard buffer and $80! for their heavier buffers, wtf? I'm going to use the milspec maxim 5.5 inch upper chambered in 7.62 and their cqb brace. I guess i'll try it with the 3.3oz. It will have either the hate brake on it or a suppressor.
Shot my 11.5 barrel and had a 3-4oclock ejection. Changed out full bcg and now ejecting 2-3oclock with a H1 and H2. Would the bcg ne the problem? My old carrier and new carrier are FA carriers.
Just I’m just curious, for a 10.5 inch barrel/upper on a pistol lower, just use the standard buffer weight initially? If no issues just roll with it or maybe try an H1? Any tips on maximizing recoil reduction so as to keep tighter groups? That is, besides a better trigger and compensator, which I plan on getting anyway.
Looks like we're all on the same page. I've had my 10.5" AR for a couple years now and I love it, but I went shooting with a friend a couple weeks ago and there was a serious difference in how smooth his rifle cycled vs mine. For a rifle with "no recoil" I noticed how much I was feeling it compared to shooting his. It's the first time for me shooting someone else's pistol so now I'm on a mission to smooth out my blaster and start shooting faster. Woooooooo! (Ric Flair)
You Guys try a different buffer yet? I have a side charge 10.5 5.56 upper with a standard aero carbine buffer and it shoots great. No noticable recoil and its cycling great and ejecting cases at 4 o'clock. But I'm wondering if I should try a little heavier buffer.
H3s can normally run in a 11.5 or less with or without a suppressor as long as it's a carbine system...14.5" barrels are h2 sweet spots with a carbine length...reason why you can run h3s in 99% of barrels with carbine gas systems are because the gas port hole in the barrels are opened a little bit more than traditional ports...reason behind that being, that most commercial manufacturers made the barrels to run anything from cheap Russian underpowered steel cased, all the way up to high pressured 556 rounds...so to counter that, it's always better to go heavy...now this info is just for carbine systems...with mid length h2s are generally the way to go
I've seen videos saying it's ok and videos saying it's not ok to open the buffer and put cotton in there to eliminate the rattle. Does it matter or is there a right vs wrong way of doing that?
hallo im going to build piston ar 15 with adams arms short stroke piston gas system barrel will be 14.5 inch from aero precision, carbine length i can do it only semi automatic can you tell me which buffer will be the correct one ? thank you an sorry for my english
Depends on you. Are you going to run it hard or is it a range princess? Do you foresee yourself relying on it to save your life or that of a loved one? Does it ever get really cold where you live?
GUNS & TACTICS I’ve had pretty good luck with mine. BUT, it’s not in a high use rifle and I don’t live in the cold like you. I’ve heard they show their weakness in extreme cold.
In the clips you can see it is running great with an H2, however that is also with legit XM193 so not wimpy cheap ammo. I don't think its overpassed but short guns have to by nature have a good size port and pressure. I am liking this upper a lot more than I thought I would :-)
hey i just found this one too!?! i just watched your 2017 video Buffer basics lol so im getting caught up! hehe Well i just am in the middle of a .45ACP Carbine build. (due to state and local laws) :>/ its a 16" CMMG radial delayed blowback system with matching BCG and i have it in a dedicated upper/lower.CMMG did say i should use a Carbine length tube and H1 buffer but idk i hear since its a radial delayed blowback system i need a lighter buffer? Any suggestions? Also have a .224Val rifle but its on a carbine length lower.....i did purchase a rifle length tube and fixed stock but unsure about buffer and spring? Any suggestions there?lol
@@GunsandTactics Yeah contacted CMMG and am getting all the help i need. Although the 2nd question i had is up for grabs though....hehe i have a .224Val 20" rifle length upper and for now its on a Carbine lower with a standard H1 buffer set up. What would you suggest for this one? I do have a rifle length tube and spring/buffer but what about the weight? Just trying to get an idea of where to start in terms of weights?
Yep, start at "which buffer weight should I start at" move on to "flatwire spring or traditional coil or even braided wire" and end up at "armaspec or jp silent captured?" Lol
@@GunsandTactics Same ammunition, lubed up like usual. Shot it at the same range conditions indoors. Just swapped buffers. Can it be actually ejecting at 4-6, but hitting the brass deflector and giving a false positive?
@@bigmak6000 I would recommend setting up a camera or your phone directly above your ejection port to see for sure. On occasion, buffers may have slight flaws that make them drag a little inside a tube, so do a close look over of the buffer surfaces just in case. Also, look inside the tube to make sure there isn't any debris.
1:40. Dude... why take the time to zoom in on marked buffers with inscribed values, if you cover the inscriptions with your hands and fingers? That’s the reason I came to your video. 👎
Sorry I’ll report this to editor who will report it to the director who will report it to the producer who will report it to the executive producer who will report it to the board of directors. This will go on Dave’s permanent record and performance review.
Been searching for 3 weeks to find out why my 300BLK won't cycle correctly and this is the only video that gave an extremely easy way to diagnose and what to do to fix it! This guy knows his stuff.
Really? You heard something I didn't. Buy different buffers until you find one that works? Hmm, who'd have thought of that.
Did it work?
Spikes tactical st- t3 buffer
I’m having cycling issues with my 8.5in .300blk (failure to eject spent case) and jamming the spent case with the next bullet , what buffer did you go with ? I order and am waiting on a H3 , did changing it fix it completely for you ? And what were you jams like ?
@@stanleyminniear4899that’s probably way over gassed
Exactly the kind of "Teach me - don't Tell me" kind of video that I was suggesting in last month's Q&A. Excellent tutorial ... thanks.
Thank you very much, glad you liked it!
This is one of the better explanations on this subject. Very well done!
This was the best and clearest explanation I have found and the visual representation of optimal ejection pattern was good too
Glad it was helpful!
Its ejecting forward, not because of brass hitting the brass deflector, but brass being ejected and the bolt cycles to FAST, then the head of the bolt hits it forward to the 2 o'clock position. Fixable with heavier buffer and/or flat wire buffer spring.
I love the easy to use adjustable buffer weights. Crazy that so many people have no clue about them and go through the guessing process of purchasing a set buffer weight.
Great data in a short concise manner and explains well enough to grasp the concept which no one has been able to explain to m before. The ejection pattern of the brass enlightening...
Great video, I used the brass ejection to dial in my buffer weight. Seems to be good to go. Thanks again for posting.
Only thing i would add is to try the buffer with the weakest ammo you fire (steel cased .223 is usually the most underpowered, also try with the heaviest weight bullet, so if you use 77gr smk, try those too) that way you make sure the gun will function with it and also give you some wiggle room for a dirty rifle firing something like m193,m855 etc
Great vid...i found it in jan2023 and seems to have aged well. Was the exact info i was looking for, thanks!
i'm in the middle of 2 new 5.56 builds. A 16 inch and a 10.5". I just finished the lower ends and I put Geissele Super 42 Springs with H2 buffers in both. I'm certain that will be good on the 10.5 inch, but I'm worried about 16 inch. I will probably switch out the spring in one of my other AR rifles and see what happens. I hope it works out. The Super 42 spring & buffer sets are $100 a piece.
How has the geissele spring and h2 work on your 16”. I’m currently in the works of building my carbine and was looking at getting it.
I really don't know how you can do a video on "picking the right buffer" without also including at least as much info on finding the right buffer spring. The 2 work in concert with each other, and we would have learned ALOT more by you showing how to correctly select each so they work in tandem correctly.
Because most people run a standard carbine spring and don’t swap springs. I can do a future video about different spring rates
Super video. Really learned a lot in a straight forward logical manner that I found refreshing. Good Job!!
I use a H2. 3 to 3:30 ejection in my carbine
The heavier buffers effect on dwell time is insignificant..The heavier buffers effect carrier velocity, not dwell time..
Wow...I may be ordering some buffers. I'm on my second build. 8.3 in. BA with 750 gas port chambered in 300 blk. I ordered an Aero Precision enhanced buffer kit with an H3 thinking it would need that for standard velocity .300 blk. Will give it a try but this video gives me a guide for where to go if it isn't right.
h2 is underkill. h4 for pistols.
h2-h3 for intermediate gas
rifle length gas is harder to say
since the rifle buffer fixed stock is already 5ish oz which is less than the h3.
BEAUTIFULLY explained. THANK YOU!!!
Great info. I'm running an Aero Precision M4E1 8" 300BLK upper/lower w/Maxim Defense CQB-PDW w/Standard buffer. I use 115gr. supersonics for defensive purposes. Just got an H1 buffer delivered today.
Did a 6 rd. function check and the difference in ejection pattern is more consistently 3-4 o'clock.... Wasn't bad before, but I knew it could be a bit better.
Keep the vids comin'. Appreciate the info.
Wow first thing I noticed as you lost a lot of weight I’ve been out of the gun game for a few years and I recognize the face. Good job my man
Thanks appreciate the comment
why on earth would you ever get out of the gun game?LOL I just got into it about 8yrs ago and still consider my self a greeny! I have tons of questions and want to be able to build my own upper?!!! LOL Just afrade to mess it up! the stuff costs too much to have an oopsy!LOL
Awesome video, with a welth of information. Thank you for the indormtion. God Bless and keep rocking us with valuable information.
Nice. Looks like a new intro. Still haven't fired the rifle i just finished except for the optic but i went with the super 42 and H1 and got the extra weight just in case. Always enjoy the info keep up the good work sir.
Thanks! Yup new year new intro. Probably make a new one later this year yet too
Hi Dave, I love the channel and have learned a lot thank you. I have a question regarding ejection pattern. I have a 16" mid-length barrel with a gas port size of .076, I have a M16 bcg with sprinco springs in the upper, my upper has no shell deflector and with an H buffer and Blue sprinco spring it ejects around 5:00. If I had a shell deflector would this be ejecting at the correct 3 to 4:00 range. The rifle is very reliable with all ammo. Basically, is everything okay. Thank you for your time and help.
You have nothing to worry about. People get far too wrapped up in ejection pattern. If your rifle feels good and is RELIABLE then don't touch a thing.
This was so great Dave! Thanks!
Thank you very much for your suggestion. Now I understand. Just watch your short video.
I've got a retro Dissipator (16.5" barrel, rifle length gas system, rifle stock, spring, and buffer tube) that consistently short cycles with a full size rifle buffer installed. I got it running properly by installing a 3 oz CAR buffer. I'm going to test it with a 4.6 oz CAR buffer to see if still works.
Have you got your dissipator cycling properly with the lighter buffer?
@@Allenmar73 The 3 oz buffer works fine, but I have not yet tested the 4.6 oz buffer. Since you asked, I'll try to test it today and let you know how it works.
@@Allenmar73 I just ran a test with the 3 oz and 4.6 oz buffers and could not tell any difference in felt recoil, speed, reliability, or ejection pattern (around 4 o'clock). Both worked fine, but I'm going to keep the 4.6 oz buffer in the rifle for now.
@@Paladin1873 .. Thanks for the report. I got one also and still testing buffers and ammo. I've had some failure to hold open on last round and also some fails to pick up and chamber rounds. Did you build your upper or go with a factory complete?
@@Allenmar73 This rifle started out as a Frankengun I bought off Gun Broker. I stripped it down for parts, but reused the lower receiver and M16A1 rifle barrel that a previous owner had cut down to 16.5". From this and a mix of old and new period correct parts I cobbled together a clone of the original early style Dissipator, except for not making the barrel 15" long. The early Dissipators had reliability issues due to the pairing of a rifle buffer, buffer spring, and buffer tube with a barrel that lacked sufficient gas pressure dwell time because the gas port was too close to the muzzle. I overcame this problem with a CAR buffer. If this approach doesn't work for you and you want to retain the early style rifle stock setup, try using a CAR buffer spring and CAR buffer. Because the CAR buffer spring is shorter than the rifle buffer spring, be sure to block the excess space inside the rifle buffer tube with a solid material (plastic, wood dowel) so that the inside dimensions of the rifle buffer tube matches the inside dimensions of a CAR buffer tube. Don't use a CAR spring without this buffer or you may have premature unlocking of the bolt or excessive bolt velocity that could damage the buffer tube. If this does not work, you might try swapping your BCG with a lightweight BCG.
Hi Dave, I have been a subscriber for a while and want to thank you for all you do. You have helped me many times when I had no idea what I was doing. My question was when do I need to change out my buffer and what are the signs, before it is too late. Thank you for your time and help.
Hi there
Thank you for watching and your comment. Look for wear on the face and edges of the coating. Also check the back rubber impact surface as they can crack or get brittle. Other than that they last a long time. Some of my old guns have a crap load of rounds, a few barre swaps and the buffer is fine. Spring should be swapped out every so often depending on length.
@@GunsandTactics
Thank you for your help and quick response. I will double check those area's on the buffer and change it out if it is needed. Thank you again.
Hi Dave, I have a slick side AR it has always ran perfectly, ejecting the brass or steel around 3:30 or 4:00 o'clock in a nice pile. I recently installed a brand new bolt, and shot six rounds of cheap 55 grain Tula, it cycled and locked back just fine but the shells where in a pile in the 5 o'clock position. Is this a problem. Should I be concerned. Thank you for your time and help.
Nope, Tula ammunition is generally junk so never gauge your rifles performance when using junk ammo
@@GunsandTactics
Hi Dave, thank you for your response. Your right Tula is junk. I know my question was a bit persnickety but this rifle is my go to, I need it to run right all the time. I guess I should take it easy with the Tula. But, I want to thank you for all that you do. You have helped me many times.
Have a Blessed Day
I know this video is a year old but I had a question about possibly creating a calculator for builders.
If all variables are known such as gas port size, barrel length, gas system length, chamber size (caliber i.e 5.56x45), buffer tube length, and lastly bolt carrier weight wouldn't it be possible to make a simple calculator that would be able to inform you of a "balanced" gas system and dwell time as well as what buffer weight and spring tension to use?
In example:
• gas port - 0.750
• barrel length - 16"
• gas system - mid
• chamber - 5.56
• buffer tube length - standard
• bolt carrier mass - 11.6oz aka 3/4 pound aka 0.725 pounds aka 5.26 KG
With this info you could simply plug it into a calculator and it would provide appropriate buffer weights, spring rates, and dwell time estimation.
Why is this not a thing?
Great video short sweet and straight to the point! 👍🏼
thank you for sharing this info..., well done!
Thanks
The SCW brace is the hands down best anyone offers.
Great information!
Glad I found this video. Which buffer weight would you recommend for a Daniel Defense 14.5 pin and welded?
Shooting it at the range today and the cycling sounded loud in the tube area.
Thanks again!
Just a little add on to this with a little bit of WHY is that - you try to use the lightest buffer possible that will give you the best ejection ie 3-4 o'clock because the heavier the buffer = more mass bouncing around in your buffer tube which also = more recoil impulse... So that's why you just don't jump up to a heavier buffer unless you really need to. So basically you want to use the lightest buffer possible that your gun will cycle reliably.. amirite!? And good video G!
Spot on
What's the best buffer & spring 🤔 for a 450 Bushmaster??????
I put a H4 in mine.
@@retiredamericanpatriot5571 ok 👌 thanks
Need some help. for someone with 3 cals. 556, 7.62x39, and 50 beowulf, what buffer can they use to work well in all 3?
stag 3g competition rifle. 18 in for the 556. 16 in for the 762 and 50. The person is looking to create nice flat shooter and reliable. rifle length tube with H1 buffer at this time. they would like to go to carbine tube and buffer if there are no negatives associated with doing so for this particular set up. TIA
Gun cycling same lower, but 3 different uppers
Q: Any changes recommended spring type, or buffer type/weight between.
22LR, 5.56mm/223, (300BO with and WO Suppressor).
Biggest problem of course is the 22LR upper. PS it is a dedicated upper not a conversion setup. Very few issues suppressed on 223/5.56 & 300BO
Would you recommend a H2 buffer to pair with a binary trigger ?
The spring coil count also matters but can keep that consistently should be a ok
Good info. I've got an ar pistol that I believe is short stroking but I'm not 100% on that cuz it runs a few rounds then has issues all the sudden. Right off the top of my head I'm thinking there is an issue at the gas block and not so much a buffer issue. This project is currently sitting in the corner and I just need to seek help and get it handled. Thanks for this info though, very helpful.
I’m having the same issue with my .50 beowolf build. Trying to figure it out.
Building a AR SBR with a 10.3 barrel to shoot 5.56. So buffer, what do you reccommend? Yes I know 5.56 and a 300 ACC subsonic blackout would be preferred but why not right.
What would be the problem if the gun does shoot but don't eject the empty case? Is happening with my 10" .300 blackout rifle. I did the 1 round test & that's what happens. I thought it was the 5.56 mag I was using so I bought a mag for .300 blackout but it still happening. The BCG stay open after the shot but when I send it forward it gets stuck so I have to start smashing against the table so it eject the empty case. It's not from a specific company or brand & I have it for home defense only. Also where I live suppressor are ilegal so I won't be using any. I already bought a H3 buffer from BCM to see if that's the problem, but I just wanted to ask while I await its arrival in 1 week.
This may be a dumb question. If a buffer is functioning properly, shouldn't the buffer become hor or at least warm up after firing a full magazine? Where does the energy go? Industrial buffers get hot with use. Thanks.
My barrel manufacturer went out of business and I haven’t been able to get their recommendation for the correct Buffer weight.
It’s an Olympic Arms XM177E2 Barrel in SS 5.56 and 11.5 inches.
I would start with an H2 buffer. I run an H2 in my ballistic advantage 11.5” (gas port on mine is .078 which is on the smaller size compared to most manufacturers so yours is probably closer to .080+)... to test use the weakest ammo you shoot (usually steel case .223 is the weakest out there), load 1-2 rounds, make sure the gun will fire and lock back on the mag. If ejection is at about your 4’oclock you should be good. If it doesnt lock back you can step down to an H buffer, if ejection is 3’oclock - 1’oclock try an H3 buffer. You want the lightest buffer you can find that will reliably cycle your gun with the weakest ammo you shoot.
@@ryanpeck3377 Thanks. That’s exactly what I’m doing..
Question, then how does my SKS throw shells in any and every direction? About 20' away
What buffer would you recommend for an AR9 with 5.5" barrel & PDW brace? The current buffer doesn't work with the brace.
Im trying to go back n fourth from a 300blk 8.5 inch and a 5 inch 556 223. Is that possible and what buffer would work if so????? Please help???? And would a micro buffer work with the 8.5 inch 300blk???
Good information !!!!
Thanks!
Wow learn something new everyday
I have a Barrel Length: 10.5"
Barrel Profile: A2
Gas System: Carbine-length
Barrel Steel: 4150V Chrome Moly Vanadium
And a aero precision m4e1 carbine complete lower
Which buffer is the best choice?
Sprinco Blue + H2 does it for me
H2
Very clear thank you
So what do I use on this setup would you guess? KAK 12.5 Inch 308 barrel shooting suppressed and a binary or Rare Breed Triggers but always supersonic ammo.
First thing I would do is check to see what the manufacturer recommends and start from there being that you are shooting suppressed you could go heavier as well
Doubt ill get any sort of response, but I bought a 7.5in barrel ar15 and want to swap the pistol buffer tube on it for a regular buffer tube, would I need to buy a new spring and buffer? or could I get away with just getting the tube itself? If not what sized buffer should I get for this size firearm?
Get the correct size buffer and spring for the tube you are using or u can have the carrier slam into the back of ur lower. The carrier will slam into the carrier side of where your buffer screws in. If you get the “regular” buffer tube called the carbine length buffer tube. Your will want to get a carbine length buffer. I found H1 to be the best all around if you don’t know what ur gonna be shooting. But H2 works good for shorties if ur using 556. But if to heavy with weak ammo or small gas port you will short stroke. I would start with an H1. And if it’s still to much gas. You can buy a second tungsten weight to add to your h1 making it an h2. If you learn a bit more look into a5 buffer. It’s a bit more complex but a lot of benifits. I’d say stick with carbine tube, carbine spring, and carbine H1 buffer for now. Good luck.
@@seanolson7854 Idk if I messed up or not but I bought the aero precision ar15/m4 carbine kit with the H2 buffer for a 7.5" .223 wylde that will be shooting both 5.56 and .223 but mainly 5.56. Also I have a 3 oz carbine buffer currently if the h2 is too heavy, but that would probably be too light? I'm new to building/swapping parts out and only know the very basics of ARs so I'm pretty unsure on a lot of this.
So h2 buffer for 7.5 556 ar15 ? Please lmk I'm have double feeding issues so I'm thinking .over gassed when slow shooting it shoots ok but when shooting faster that's when I start running in to the double feeding I have standard that came with brace
7.5" radical firearms ar....what size buffer not sure if h2 or h3
Great video-thank you! However, I am confused by something you said. Because a SBR has higher pressure we could use a heavier buffer. You stated that firing with a suppressor lengthens the barrel and creates more pressure: use a heavier buffer. Assuming that the suppressor, in effect, creates a standard barrel length...why shouldn’t we be using a heavier buffer on all our rifles. Or did I misunderstand the point you were making on the use of suppressors?
The suppressor adds pressure, generally longer barrels have different sized gas ports. So while yes the suppressor adds length and allows higher pressure it didn’t change or reduce the gas port. You don’t want a heavier buffer by practice as it is more reciprocating mass and thus more recoil.
Ken J IKR. Geissele recommends h2 or h3 for suppressed sbrs. 🤷♂️🤷♂️
The gas port size on a 16” barrel is going to be around .065, on an 11.5” it will be around .080 so when you add a suppressor the 11.5” is allowing more gas to go through the tube and act on the bolt carrier. (There is also the factor of dwell time...the time between when the bullet passes the gas port and it exits the barrel. That is the amount of time that gas is going back through the gas port, because it is a shorter amount of time on an SBR you need a larger gas port to allow enough gas to cycle the action. Adding the suppressor effectively increases the dwell time. So an SBR with a suppressor due to its increased gas port is allowing much more gas to act on the carrier than a similarly length barrel would.)
Maxim wants $35 for than standard buffer and $80! for their heavier buffers, wtf? I'm going to use the milspec maxim 5.5 inch upper chambered in 7.62 and their cqb brace. I guess i'll try it with the 3.3oz. It will have either the hate brake on it or a suppressor.
Shot my 11.5 barrel and had a 3-4oclock ejection. Changed out full bcg and now ejecting 2-3oclock with a H1 and H2. Would the bcg ne the problem? My old carrier and new carrier are FA carriers.
Should I Run the H2 Buffer on my 5inch 762x39 build ? Or go lighter or heavier?
Just I’m just curious, for a 10.5 inch barrel/upper on a pistol lower, just use the standard buffer weight initially? If no issues just roll with it or maybe try an H1? Any tips on maximizing recoil reduction so as to keep tighter groups? That is, besides a better trigger and compensator, which I plan on getting anyway.
Same question here. Should I change the buffer to H2 on 10inch sbr ar15 from PSA?
Looks like we're all on the same page. I've had my 10.5" AR for a couple years now and I love it, but I went shooting with a friend a couple weeks ago and there was a serious difference in how smooth his rifle cycled vs mine. For a rifle with "no recoil" I noticed how much I was feeling it compared to shooting his. It's the first time for me shooting someone else's pistol so now I'm on a mission to smooth out my blaster and start shooting faster.
Woooooooo! (Ric Flair)
You Guys try a different buffer yet? I have a side charge 10.5 5.56 upper with a standard aero carbine buffer and it shoots great. No noticable recoil and its cycling great and ejecting cases at 4 o'clock. But I'm wondering if I should try a little heavier buffer.
H2
any recommendations on a suppressed 8.5in 300blk out pistol build with a SBA3 brace?
Skidz1818 h2 should work for both subs and supers
Looks like a billet upper in some of those photos. Any info or advice on that score?
Thanks!
Any Ideas on using a armaspec sound mitigation buffer in weight H (3.8oz) in a .300blkout carbine, with a non-adjust gas tube? It'd be appreciated!🤙
You could give it a try, subsonic might be a challenge but you never know. What length barrel
What would you suggest for a 10.3 suppressed 300 blk?
What buffer weight is good for bear creek 10.5 556 carbine gas upper? -first build
Thanks Dave.
Thank you!
H3s can normally run in a 11.5 or less with or without a suppressor as long as it's a carbine system...14.5" barrels are h2 sweet spots with a carbine length...reason why you can run h3s in 99% of barrels with carbine gas systems are because the gas port hole in the barrels are opened a little bit more than traditional ports...reason behind that being, that most commercial manufacturers made the barrels to run anything from cheap Russian underpowered steel cased, all the way up to high pressured 556 rounds...so to counter that, it's always better to go heavy...now this info is just for carbine systems...with mid length h2s are generally the way to go
I've seen videos saying it's ok and videos saying it's not ok to open the buffer and put cotton in there to eliminate the rattle. Does it matter or is there a right vs wrong way of doing that?
Leave it as it is If it really bugs you get a JP silent spring system.
What about using the SOB buffer form griffin Armament combined with JP extra power carbine spring for a .300 AAC 8.5 barrel pistol?
I’m not familiar with that buffer so I can’t say.
GUNS & TACTICS Thank you
I just bought a t3 buffer for the frt trigger and wot can you do a video on that
Don’t have either trigger
Best buffer for 450 BM? Also SB 350 legend?
hallo
im going to build piston ar 15 with adams arms short stroke piston gas system
barrel will be 14.5 inch from aero precision, carbine length
i can do it only semi automatic
can you tell me which buffer will be the correct one ?
thank you an sorry for my english
*5.56 caliber
If a gun is under gassed going by shell ejection but runs reliably should you still tune it better?
Depends on you. Are you going to run it hard or is it a range princess? Do you foresee yourself relying on it to save your life or that of a loved one? Does it ever get really cold where you live?
Dan Martinez I might run it hard, a little 3gun. I have little interest in Guns I can’t count onto save my life. Yep it gets cold.
That is a sweet, short, and very nice upper! Who made it?
Check our PDX Upper video
Why no H4?
Excellent video on the topic. I have a question: Is there a powdered Tungsten buffer available for the Springfield Saint Edge PDW out there? Thanks.
Spikes tactical
I'm running m&p 15 with a geissele super 42 buffer spring with the guns original buffer. What would be the recommended buffer for this combo?
Kynshot buffer
You should have mentioned hydraulic buffers.
Those are horrible, I’ve seen several break that I have zero interest in them unless something has significantly changed in the last few years
GUNS & TACTICS I’ve had pretty good luck with mine. BUT, it’s not in a high use rifle and I don’t live in the cold like you. I’ve heard they show their weakness in extreme cold.
so get a h2 for a 458 socom upper? need help. thank you.
I'm thinking about getting the maxim this year... any issues? Did you go to that h1 buffer? Are they coming in over gassed?
In the clips you can see it is running great with an H2, however that is also with legit XM193 so not wimpy cheap ammo. I don't think its overpassed but short guns have to by nature have a good size port and pressure. I am liking this upper a lot more than I thought I would :-)
@@GunsandTactics awesome... so you would recommend changing it to h2 if I got one? Yeah, I would def only run good 556 through it , no wimpy stuff
I would try it as is first and see how it runs
hey i just found this one too!?! i just watched your 2017 video Buffer basics lol so im getting caught up! hehe Well i just am in the middle of a .45ACP Carbine build. (due to state and local laws) :>/ its a 16" CMMG radial delayed blowback system with matching BCG and i have it in a dedicated upper/lower.CMMG did say i should use a Carbine length tube and H1 buffer but idk i hear since its a radial delayed blowback system i need a lighter buffer? Any suggestions? Also have a .224Val rifle but its on a carbine length lower.....i did purchase a rifle length tube and fixed stock but unsure about buffer and spring? Any suggestions there?lol
Id try what they recommend, they generally want their stuff to run and wouldn't likely give you bad advice.
@@GunsandTactics Yeah contacted CMMG and am getting all the help i need. Although the 2nd question i had is up for grabs though....hehe i have a .224Val 20" rifle length upper and for now its on a Carbine lower with a standard H1 buffer set up. What would you suggest for this one? I do have a rifle length tube and spring/buffer but what about the weight? Just trying to get an idea of where to start in terms of weights?
Running a 4.75 ar, recommended buffer spring and buffer?
Please say sike
so the heavier the buffer the less the recoil?
Opposite
What barrel length on that aero?
It’s a maxim PDX Upper, review coming soon
What’s the best for 16 in barrel
Depends on gas system and port but probably an H
Yep, start at "which buffer weight should I start at" move on to "flatwire spring or traditional coil or even braided wire" and end up at "armaspec or jp silent captured?" Lol
JP SCS are probably my favorite AR upgrade.
@@GunsandTactics I've heard that from so many people. Recently purchased my first, can't wait to shoot and see what the hype is all about.
,44 hey there's Dewey!
I recently changed from an H1 to an H2 buffer and my ejection went from 2:30 to 1 o'clock. I'm not sure whats going on. Any advice would be helpful.
Did you change anything else like ammo, lube, shooting conditions etc
@@GunsandTactics Same ammunition, lubed up like usual. Shot it at the same range conditions indoors. Just swapped buffers. Can it be actually ejecting at 4-6, but hitting the brass deflector and giving a false positive?
@@bigmak6000 I would recommend setting up a camera or your phone directly above your ejection port to see for sure.
On occasion, buffers may have slight flaws that make them drag a little inside a tube, so do a close look over of the buffer surfaces just in case. Also, look inside the tube to make sure there isn't any debris.
Adjustable gas block
Cuál sería la mejor para una AR15 M4A1 que no se sienta ??
Can a h2 buffer fit in a viper pdw stock?
How did I get Unsubbed from you….
1:40. Dude... why take the time to zoom in on marked buffers with inscribed values, if you cover the inscriptions with your hands and fingers? That’s the reason I came to your video. 👎
Sorry I’ll report this to editor who will report it to the director who will report it to the producer who will report it to the executive producer who will report it to the board of directors. This will go on Dave’s permanent record and performance review.
Ok video game shooter. Stfu.