This is really valuable info. Many people, including so-called AR experts, get this stuff wrong. Thank you for posting such an organized and well-presented video! People like me who are still learning the finer points of rifles need this kind of resource.
You have to consider though, that commercial parts have variable gas port sizes. This alteration makes the advice on this video apply only to parts that remain exactly as colt originally produced them back in the day.
@@johnqpublic2718 Because when I apply what a lot of internet “experts” tell me, it ends up not working. Also, my original comment is 4 years old. I’ve been shooting an AR in competition for the last 3.5 of those 4 years, and building my own setups for the last 3 years. I’m an expert, by any reasonable definition of the word. And you know what? This video still holds up.
This is easily the most in-depth discussion on buffer on UA-cam. I'm very curious to hear your thoughts on the other half of the buffer system: the buffer spring. Specifically, when should I consider moving to a stronger spring?
Great info, but it would have been awesome if you had also talked about what buffers are used with what barrel lengths and gas port lengths.....pistol, carbine, mid-length, intermediate, and rifle.
The buffer spring is a 41 or 42 flat coil, I believe I'm using a standard mil spec buffer, barrel length is 16 inch with bird cage on the end, M4 feed ramps. The gas system is a mid length or carbine length, I have no clue as to the gas port size. But I'll bull the hand garden and gas tube and put the ol' calipers to work. When I get back to the house, I'll pull the buffer Out and I'll stick it on the Digitals and see what pops up. After I do all this, I will report back With the information I have collected. Oh yeah, I'll see what size of flat buffer spring I'm using and put that information on here to.
pretty simple with what he said. 32:35 Carbines (generally over gassed) H. 18" with rifle gas, either standard rifle or standard carbine (depending on stock). Rifle? Same. I'm running 18 on rifle gas with A2 stock. All mil spec. Lots of rounds with no failure. I"m going to shave some weight off of her. Adding carbine stock assy. My SPR is 11lbs with basics. Harris bipod, 4x12 scope, A2 barrel. A2 stock assy.
In addition I live in Fairbanks, AK where temperatures throughout the year range from -40 to 100F. Keeping my rifles functional throughout the year is challenging, this finally makes sense to me. Switched back to a lighter buffer and adjustable gas system to mitigate pressure changes due to environment or firing suppressed. Really helpful thank you.
Thank you for your thorough explanation. I was having premature wear in my upper. Added a tungsten weight to make the buffer an H2. Problem solved and ejection trajectory is perfect at 4:30.
Straight forward and comprehensive, the presentation given in a way, to cause the viewer to feel at ease. Comparatively, a one on one delivery, in your own living room or private class.
Can you please explain this further? What do you mean by "novelty?" from my experience with the jp captured buffer system, it's been far more reliable, and consistent than your standard buffer system.
I thoroughly enjoyed this highly informative and well organized presentation. You touched on the mechanics and emphasized that the firearm is a system designed to serve a specific purpose. I would like to see more videos of this type so I can expand my knowledge base to improve my future builds. Great video!!
The physics taking place during semi-auto fire... And full auto fire. Require components to be within weight specs. I have one hydraulic buffer, specifically timed with a long barreled target, AR. It permits me to watch holes appear on paper at 200 yards without my reticle leaving the x-ray on 20 power.. I consider that a neat trick by having tweet with the physics of how my rifle moves its bolt. Timing for extraction has been slowed. Travel distance is maximized for functionality on every shot. But the softness of the bolt movement allows sight through the magnified optic throughout the shot enabling, accurate follow-ups.. 😂 I just love the rocket science behind shooting sports. ❤ You have a lot of information bundled in one video!!!
Good info, ended up needing a heavier buffer for basically same reason you talked about when they switched ammo, my handloads were making the buffer shoot back to fast and wasnt locking back after the last round, didnt have any feeding issues but feed ramps had a noticeable amount of brass/copper residue on them like they were being smeared against the ramps
Thank you for taking the time to go through the history and development of whatever you’re talking about. It gives one a deeper understanding of a topic. It’s interesting and really helpful. I really enjoy your videos. Plus I get to blame you when I spend money on better parts or anything HK when my wife asks.
Kudo's for pointing this out Chris! I have a 16"Mid Length PSA and it is stock except for a Chip McCormock Flat Wire Buffer Spring and went to an "H" buffer from the OEM "Carbine" model. I am going to have to wait till next winter here in Illinois for a true test of this mod. Always be prudent in testing non OEM components in any firearm!!! Great video as usual; sir!
Good information of course within the parameters of 5.56 chambered rifles and carbines produced by colt and you also include the 9x19 guns. You go into full autoguns that us civilians can not freely buy or possess and so bolt bounce is not such an issue. Today us civilians typically buy an upper, that in my case are often pistol length and will be in other chamberings like 300 AAC, 7.62x39, 6.5G, etc. The gas port hole drilled in the barrel may also vary according to what the maker thinks is best. Typical example: The first 7.62x39 gun that I assembled using a 16 inch barrel upper and a rifle length buffer set up had functioning problems until I added 3 tungsten wt to the rifle length buffer. The first rifle buffer was a very old surplus part that I purchased in the 90's. First the elastic polymer thingy on it disintegrated with age having something to do with it. when I added the tungsten wts magazine feeding from the magazine become perfect, but the front of the buffer got punched out. I purchased a new one and all is good. Reason for 7.62x39 is that I have a lot of it and it is cheap. I also happen to like the round. Of course I had to get a longer firing pin also for it to work. With some mags it does not lock open, but being an AK person that does not brother me so much. Also I can not think of many problems where the load of a 20 or 30 magazine will not solve it. The point is when assembling a gun on your own, some experimentation is needed with that applying specifically to buffers. You do make a good point about low temperatures. I have never seen below 15 F in my part of Northwest Florida. If it is real cold, maybe I should use the AK or G3 since i know those will work. Below 0 F is brutal for sure.
Wranglerstar Missed you. Only just occurred to me that I haven’t seen any of your videos in my feed. Went to your channel to find I had been un-subscribed??? I didn’t do it.
DD sells their complete MK18s with an H buffer. I’d always heard H2. Edit. I believe SOCOM runs their MK18s with H2. You can run them with an H or H2. Preferably an H2 if you’re running suppressed.
Good info. Have always used STD or H1 on AR builds but didn’t know why. Agree with Mark D below, learning the finer points is the difference between a great build and one that just runs.
I had no idea there are/were so many variations of buffers. Was issued the A1 and later the A2 back in the day. Never gave buffers any real thought other than it just being another part of the rifle we needed to have in good condition.
Good video with lots of information. For the most part, I agree with your assessment about the rifles being designed as a system that works together. That said sometimes the aftermarket does come out with a better product which improves the function. I know of people that depend on their carbines that have changed things for the better and still have the reliability needed. I think the main thing is you understand how the system works, what the system needs to do and make sure it functions under all conditions with those changes. If you don't understand the system and how it works, don't mess with it. Also, with some law enforcement departments, they don't run military ammo so changes may be the right thing to do with that ammo.
Thanks. I'm swapping from 16" carbine barrel and gas tube to to an 18" barrel with rifle gas tube. I was thinking that my standard 3 weight carbine buffer would be too light, but I think you suggested it'll probably be what I need.
That’s pretty simple, you need a very light buffer weigh for subsonic ammo. It’s not loaded very hot so it’s not going to be able to cycle the bolt if you have too much weight or too strong of a spring. If that’s what you are asking. But if you are using subsonic ammo most of the time then that will work to just set up your buffer and weight for subsonic ammo. It’s hard to tell you what to use because all of this is determined based upon what type of setup you have. Is it a carbine gas length, mid length, or rifle length. That drastically effects how certain ammo will cycle in the gun. The bigger the gun the bigger buffer weight and tube you need in order to slow the system down. The longer the barrel the more tube and weight is needed because it’s taking a lot longer for that gas to reach the gas tube because it’s much further down the barrel. If I may make a recommendation for what I have done, because who doesn’t like to use subsonic ammo on the range and with a suppressor ? It’s fun, it’s light, it’s kid friendly is you have kids and it’s like shooting a 22. If you are shooting subsonic ammo you can afford a good adjustable gas system which will allow you to shoot both with the simple turn or nob or a tool that comes with it.
Had a Colt 9mm come thru local shop. Was an interesting piece, the mag well had a filler pinned in place. Same shop also had an SP1 that had third pin with a block of steel on the third pin stamped deeply with "COLT"
fantastic video and thanks for sharing so much of your knowledge. I can sit back and watch your channel and old gunblue490 all night and always learn one (or ten) things new every time. Great work and hope this channel continues to grow by leaps and bounds!
Excellent video. Ton of knowledge and almost exactly what I was looking for. I'm trying to figure out what buffer I need for a 300 blk 7.5 inch pistol build
I forgot who makes them but you can get buffers now that let you play with the weights. So you don't need to buy different buffers. There's no way to know what you need. Gas ports vary. Tolerances in the BCG vary. You can have a big gas port and an inefficient BCG and you won't need any heavy buffers. Testing is the only way to know.
One buffer I've seen, plastic filled with shot instead of regular weights. You can tell by the rattle. I think these came in some very cheap build kits. Toss in the nearest trash can. Great video! I learned a lot.
Great video and detailed information. BLUF I got out of it is the buffer weight should match the barrel weight - lighter barrel = lighter buffer, heavy barrel = heavy buffer. Barrel length doesn't matter, barrel weight matters. Questions still exist about length of gas system, size of gas system ports, and how does being "over-gassed" impact the cycling and choice of buffer - and whether buffer weight even matters in an over-gassed set up?
I run JP Silent Captured in all my builds, I am running a Heavy version in my MK12 inspired build, it has a very heavy barrel and rifle length gas system. I have never had an issue in any weather condition, I live in western WA, and the weather changes all the time
Thanks for the information, was extremely helpful for my next m4 build. The history on Colts engineering of the buffer was interesting and informative. There are so many things that you can do with ar/m4 platform. There is always new things to learn, both right and the wrong was. Thx.
Great video, with some invaluable information in my opinion. What is your take on buffer springs, specifically flat wire versus standard round wire. To my understanding you can get a longer life span out of a flat wire spring and it eliminates the “twang” commonly associated with a round wire buffer spring. However I have no experience with a flat wire spring & I am curious if in your experience you have found any reliability issues with a flat wire buffer spring in either semi-auto and auto firing?
@SmallArmsSolutions I just found your channel again. I'm glad to see you still producing videos! I always liked your attention to detail and facts! Keep them coming, and I'll keep giving the thumbs up and sharing!
My DB15 16", 1 in 8", seemed a little over gassed for the 5.56 M193 and M855 ammo I was using, so I just switched to a slightly heavier H1 buffer to slow the action a hair, and it seems to have worked perfectly. Most of my firearms mods are subtle. My .40 P226 has many mods, but looks stock, except for the G10 grips, but has many mods to customize reset, trigger pull, recoil, trigger weight, and balance, to my standards.
Colt came out with the H6 buffer about 6-7 yrs ago. Designed for the M16 20" rifle gas with a carbine stock and receiver extension. Weight duplicates a standard rifle buffer. Functions reliable in burst or auto.
This also applies to a rifle length (A2) buffer tube on a Mk18 rifle. For length of pull I prefer the 5/8" longer tube. Weight makes a big difference regarding cyclic rate and reliability.
Thank you for the history lesson! Very cool info. Maybe you can do your next vid on what buffers with what has length, barrel length etc. it would be really nice to see a video like this one going into the mechanics of it all together. 👍
Good info it gave me lots of info I needed to determine what I need to do. Oh and one more thing invest in a mic that you can attach to your clothing and speak louder. You sounded like you were in the back of the room and didn't want to speak to loud because you didn't want someone to hear you.
Not sure if you got it straightened out, but it sounds like you may be getting too little gas. Have you checked for leaks around the gas block, gas block alignment, and that your gas key is installed/tight?
So...for those of us trying out own builds -- and assuming we can't afford a high-speed camera to be able to see bolt bounce -- how can we tune our buffer choice? Would it be fair to assume that using the HEAVIEST buffer (or buffer/spring combination -- when some of the stronger springs might be used) which always locks open on last round even at the lowest temperatures of operation is a good choice?
Thanks. I generally prefer adjustable gas blocks on all my AR’s. I reload, and like to be able to tune them for my various loads, and seasons. Though it’s definitely an additional point of failure if you forgot what state of tune the AR is in, then try to take it to the range and it won’t cycle cause you tuned it down for a very soft load - and you forgot your adjustment tool at home. 🤦🏻♂️😂
With my limited knowledge, I would tend to go for a heavier buffer, but the goal overall is to get that 4:00 ejection imo. The lighter buffer will tend to give you closer to a 3:00 or even forward 2:00 ejections
My understand of buffers is unless you're shooting full auto "bolt bounce" is irrelevant. The time between shots is sufficient to allow the bolt to settle into place for the next round.
I have a Spike's Tactical powdered tungsten buffer in a 16" pencil bbl semi carbine, works fine for range use, and what I like most is no rattle sound during recoil.
@John Beige I have the T2, which I believe is 1 oz heavier than standard. It is in a DPMS Oracle upper which has a carbine length gas system. Shoots great.
Love the video, could you do one on AR10/308. In the past we just had rufle tube and stocks but in the last few years a lot more adjusable stocks with carbine tubes which seem to create a whole new monster regarding springs, buffers, adj gas blocks etc. Thanks
I like my spikes ST-T2 buffer. It’s about the weight of an H buffer but it also has a spider on the front of it and it can be used as a maraca in pinch.
Congrats on another successful post, albeit 3 yrs. belatedly.. Of particular interest to me is the Italian 222 set up.. As I understand you, this means; 2 empty car buffers inserted into a car spring at each end, so that when inserted into the tube, the rear buffer's metal (Large) end will contact the rear of the tube. Assuming this is correct, what, if any, change need be made for function with a BRN-4 piston with light barrel, in your opinion?
I have thought about experimenting with different buffers but I never felt that any of my rifles recoil enough for me to care enough to do it. I have a couple mid-length and a few carbine length gassed barrels ,all are 16". The difference in recoil and cyclical rate are negligible for the type of shooting I do and I have never had a reliable concern. All are mil-spec buffer and have NB coated BCGs.
Oh wow... I was just about to put a VLTOR A5 Spring & Buffer Kit into a build with an 18 inch rifle length gas system. I was under the impression that the A5 would be appropriate. You saved me some frustration. I'll use an H buffer system with carbine tube. For my 18 inch mid length barrels, what is the appropriate buffer weight?
What about a 14.5" lightweight barrel with carbine length gas system, using a lightweight BCG, that is sometimes suppressed? Everyone would just tell me to change springs and buffers, but I wondered if an adjustable gas block wouldn't be part of the solution.
It will solve you issues but tak no on what kind on ammunition you get it run 100% with cause thats generally what your stuck using if its one of those million and a half gas setting blocks. Had to go that route for my ar10
The carbine buffer my AR came with has 1 solid weight in it. When I changed to a mid length gas system the bolt/buffer were slamming into the receiver extension so hard it unseated a so on single point sling adapter I have. I bought a bigger kit to try a H1 (currently running a H2) and found that when I put the weights in I didn't have room for the rubber spacers. Getting erratic extraction so I may play with a H1.
Do I need heavier buffer or lighter buffer? Short strokes with 145gr surplus ammo (which have great accuracy) shoots good with 150gr rem core lock and functions well. Carbine buffer tube, 4oz buffer, 18in barrel rifle length gas system. Non adjustable gas block. Gas block is aligned properly.
You made good points. But I would have gone more in depth into the other factors in the system. Gas port size, adj gas block, spring rate, carrier weight.
I always heard ar15 makers ship with light bugfers to ensure all ammo works, even lighter loads, and that can beat the hell out of the gun. Never thought about the cold, but then again don't shoot my ar15's in cold temps. Good info.
AR guys be like: what buffer should I use during winter months and which one during summer? AK guys be like: I just cleaned my AK with an garden hose, can I use a microwave to dry it?
That’s actually pretty funny, but AK guys would have the same problems if AKs were as popular as ARs, and there was as many aftermarket options and variations that changes how the gun operates.
@@7seasons31 There are more and more accessories being made for AKs, and every time someone fucks around with mechanics, they screw shit up. In Russia there is a heap of things.
Okay, so I have a 300blk pistol length gas system in a 16” AR, and the majority of what I’ve shot out of it so far is 150gr FMJ supers. I’m switching to 130gr OTM. I don’t believe I’ll be using subsonic out of it anytime soon at all. I took too training classes this weekend and had two malfunctions out of 750 rounds. I knew the rifle was extremely over gassed, and I understand why they do this, because of the very large range of ammo in 300blk. The recoil is extremely uncomfortable in prone or on a bench rest. I’d like to tame that recoil a good bit. I put a mussel brake on and it seemed to make very little difference if any. So I ordered the H and H2 buffers today. I’m always very anxious about doing anything that could hamper reliability. This 300blk is my home defense firearm. I mentioned the two malfunctions, the rifle was not well lubricated. After applying some lube it ran all day about 500+ rounds no problem. So I want to tame the recoil as much as possible while maintaining a very high standard of reliability. Long winded question to ask, Help? Lol
I'm listening to the part about the hydraulic buffer and wondering why they wouldn't simplify it with a die spring? If you're Colt and you can order springs by the tens of thousands, you could get a variable rate spring that would have the same resistance profile as the hydraulic?
Hey! The first thing he said was colts been there done that and stick to what came in your rifle! Even if you didnt buy a colt, regardless of barrel length, gas port adjustment, just stop messing around with it your going to get yourself killed in the winter and or summer time lol. Dont worry tho his body armour will shield him from my sarcasm
You should make a video like this, but talking about springs. You could go over regular, flatwire, braided, captured and strengths of springs.
I agree!
Most other UA-camr videos about buffers: 5-10 minutes.
SAS video about buffers: 35 minutes.
Keep up the good work.
This is really valuable info. Many people, including so-called AR experts, get this stuff wrong. Thank you for posting such an organized and well-presented video! People like me who are still learning the finer points of rifles need this kind of resource.
You have to consider though, that commercial parts have variable gas port sizes. This alteration makes the advice on this video apply only to parts that remain exactly as colt originally produced them back in the day.
If you yourself are still learning "the finer points of rifles" how do you know that most "AR experts, get this stuff wrong?"
@@johnqpublic2718 Because when I apply what a lot of internet “experts” tell me, it ends up not working. Also, my original comment is 4 years old. I’ve been shooting an AR in competition for the last 3.5 of those 4 years, and building my own setups for the last 3 years. I’m an expert, by any reasonable definition of the word. And you know what? This video still holds up.
@@Scientist_Salarian that's awesome
This is easily the most in-depth discussion on buffer on UA-cam. I'm very curious to hear your thoughts on the other half of the buffer system: the buffer spring. Specifically, when should I consider moving to a stronger spring?
Great info, but it would have been awesome if you had also talked about what buffers are used with what barrel lengths and gas port lengths.....pistol, carbine, mid-length, intermediate, and rifle.
The buffer spring is a 41 or 42 flat coil, I believe I'm using a standard mil spec buffer, barrel length is 16 inch with bird cage on the end, M4 feed ramps. The gas system is a mid length or carbine length, I have no clue as to the gas port size. But I'll bull the hand garden and gas tube and put the ol' calipers to work. When I get back to the house, I'll pull the buffer Out and I'll stick it on the Digitals and see what pops up. After I do all this, I will report back With the information I have collected. Oh yeah, I'll see what size of flat buffer spring I'm using and put that information on here to.
pretty simple with what he said. 32:35
Carbines (generally over gassed) H. 18" with rifle gas, either standard rifle or standard carbine (depending on stock). Rifle? Same.
I'm running 18 on rifle gas with A2 stock. All mil spec. Lots of rounds with no failure. I"m going to shave some weight off of her. Adding carbine stock assy.
My SPR is 11lbs with basics. Harris bipod, 4x12 scope, A2 barrel. A2 stock assy.
@@karlkarlson6156 From what I understand, military weapons tend to be overgased in order to be reliable in all conditions.
@@richardlahan7068 the vast majority of ar style rifles come over gassed for this reason military and civilian
That’s a hell of a ballistic plate brother.
I don’t think that’s a plate. I think he had back surgery or something. I could be wrong
@@Truecrimecommunity nerd
@@Truecrimecommunity nerd
@@Truecrimecommunity nerd
@@Truecrimecommunity nerd
This man knows his ARs
This man knows his AR buffers.
I learned more watching 3 of your videos than I did watching 30 of other U’Tubers, Lol.. Thank you sir.. Invaluable information!!
In addition I live in Fairbanks, AK where temperatures throughout the year range from -40 to 100F. Keeping my rifles functional throughout the year is challenging, this finally makes sense to me. Switched back to a lighter buffer and adjustable gas system to mitigate pressure changes due to environment or firing suppressed. Really helpful thank you.
Why not switch to AK for winter
@@bobtorsen9830 when he said AK he meant Alaska not a Kalishnikov. And any respectable combat fighter would select an AR system over an AK system.
@@Rustebadge He understood that he's not using an AK. He's just saying to switch os in the winter
The buffer game was probably the most mind-numbingly confusing part to research on building an AR.
i agree, and even with what i know im stuck trying out different combinations but the info has been a great help.
Buy a gun with adjustable gas.
@@willrobinson9575 adjustable gas blocks are just another failure point. Best to keep it simple.
@ Why not?
@@7seasons31 If you want simple, get an AK.
My 1 month old daughter now knows everything there is to know about buffers!
Thank you for your thorough explanation. I was having premature wear in my upper. Added a tungsten weight to make the buffer an H2. Problem solved and ejection trajectory is perfect at 4:30.
I started running SpringCo buffer springs and H2 buffers for my carbines and mid-gas system. Seems to tame the recoil and improve exteactions.
Chris please do a series on comparing both AR10 and AR-308 buffers and springs
I was hoping for that myself.
@@EarthAltar Same here. An AR10/LR308 version of this video (covering both carbine and rifle type buffers) would be extremely helpful.
@@Eccentric5B I went with the Armaspec SRS buffer for my MSR .308.
@@EarthAltar fixed or adjustable?
@@enzoaven8829 As far as I know they only have the one version for .308. It's not adjustable. They have different "weights" for 5.56 though.
I'm 67 years old and just getting into the ar system. Thank you for the info.
Straight forward and comprehensive, the presentation given in a way, to cause the viewer to feel at ease. Comparatively, a one on one delivery, in your own living room or private class.
6 haters couldn’t understand your presentation... Thank you Chris! Extremely helpful info! *Hat tipped
Good analysis. I'd be interested in seeing an update which included things like the JP captured spring buffer systems.
The JP spring is a novelty. Not for use with selective fire weapons. I only discuss buffers used in military grade weapons.
@@SmallArmsSolutionsgood to know. Thanks!😊
Can you please explain this further? What do you mean by "novelty?" from my experience with the jp captured buffer system, it's been far more reliable, and consistent than your standard buffer system.
I thoroughly enjoyed this highly informative and well organized presentation. You touched on the mechanics and emphasized that the firearm is a system designed to serve a specific purpose. I would like to see more videos of this type so I can expand my knowledge base to improve my future builds. Great video!!
What comes in a “mil spec” buffer tube assembly?
The physics taking place during semi-auto fire... And full auto fire. Require components to be within weight specs.
I have one hydraulic buffer, specifically timed with a long barreled target, AR. It permits me to watch holes appear on paper at 200 yards without my reticle leaving the x-ray on 20 power.. I consider that a neat trick by having tweet with the physics of how my rifle moves its bolt. Timing for extraction has been slowed. Travel distance is maximized for functionality on every shot. But the softness of the bolt movement allows sight through the magnified optic throughout the shot enabling, accurate follow-ups..
😂 I just love the rocket science behind shooting sports. ❤ You have a lot of information bundled in one video!!!
I never would have thought about the weight of the barrel affecting the optimal buffer but it makes sense. Thanks!
The most comprehensive video on AR buffers , well done !
Good info, ended up needing a heavier buffer for basically same reason you talked about when they switched ammo, my handloads were making the buffer shoot back to fast and wasnt locking back after the last round, didnt have any feeding issues but feed ramps had a noticeable amount of brass/copper residue on them like they were being smeared against the ramps
Excellent buffer information. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It was very helpful in understanding how and why buffer selection is so important.
Thank you for taking the time to go through the history and development of whatever you’re talking about. It gives one a deeper understanding of a topic. It’s interesting and really helpful. I really enjoy your videos. Plus I get to blame you when I spend money on better parts or anything HK when my wife asks.
Watching this has saved me so much money from making poor choices on buffer weights that I really did not understand.
Kudo's for pointing this out Chris! I have a 16"Mid Length PSA and it is stock except for a Chip McCormock Flat Wire Buffer Spring and went to an "H" buffer from the OEM "Carbine" model. I am going to have to wait till next winter here in Illinois for a true test of this mod. Always be prudent in testing non OEM components in any firearm!!! Great video as usual; sir!
Good information of course within the parameters of 5.56 chambered rifles and carbines produced by colt and you also include the 9x19 guns. You go into full autoguns that us civilians can not freely buy or possess and so bolt bounce is not such an issue.
Today us civilians typically buy an upper, that in my case are often pistol length and will be in other chamberings like 300 AAC, 7.62x39, 6.5G, etc. The gas port hole drilled in the barrel may also vary according to what the maker thinks is best.
Typical example: The first 7.62x39 gun that I assembled using a 16 inch barrel upper and a rifle length buffer set up had functioning problems until I added 3 tungsten wt to the rifle length buffer. The first rifle buffer was a very old surplus part that I purchased in the 90's. First the elastic polymer thingy on it disintegrated with age having something to do with it. when I added the tungsten wts magazine feeding from the magazine become perfect, but the front of the buffer got punched out. I purchased a new one and all is good.
Reason for 7.62x39 is that I have a lot of it and it is cheap. I also happen to like the round. Of course I had to get a longer firing pin also for it to work. With some mags it does not lock open, but being an AK person that does not brother me so much. Also I can not think of many problems where the load of a 20 or 30 magazine will not solve it.
The point is when assembling a gun on your own, some experimentation is needed with that applying specifically to buffers. You do make a good point about low temperatures. I have never seen below 15 F in my part of Northwest Florida. If it is real cold, maybe I should use the AK or G3 since i know those will work. Below 0 F is brutal for sure.
What buffer would you recommend for the new MK18 DD
Wranglerstar
Missed you.
Only just occurred to me that I haven’t seen any of your videos in my feed. Went to your channel to find I had been un-subscribed??? I didn’t do it.
DD sells their complete MK18s with an H buffer. I’d always heard H2.
Edit. I believe SOCOM runs their MK18s with H2.
You can run them with an H or H2. Preferably an H2 if you’re running suppressed.
I use an H2 in my DD MK18, Cody.
Its a small world
Thanks! I plan on building my own AR15 with a 16" barrel now I know what type of buffer to look for....Thanks a lot!
Good info. Have always used STD or H1 on AR builds but didn’t know why. Agree with Mark D below, learning the finer points is the difference between a great build and one that just runs.
Extremely technical, but very informative. You gave me the answer I came looking for and added to my knowledge base. Thank you very much.
I had no idea there are/were so many variations of buffers. Was issued the A1 and later the A2 back in the day. Never gave buffers any real thought other than it just being another part of the rifle we needed to have in good condition.
Good video with lots of information. For the most part, I agree with your assessment about the rifles being designed as a system that works together. That said sometimes the aftermarket does come out with a better product which improves the function. I know of people that depend on their carbines that have changed things for the better and still have the reliability needed. I think the main thing is you understand how the system works, what the system needs to do and make sure it functions under all conditions with those changes. If you don't understand the system and how it works, don't mess with it. Also, with some law enforcement departments, they don't run military ammo so changes may be the right thing to do with that ammo.
Great video, I hope you made a swift recovery!
Thanks. I'm swapping from 16" carbine barrel and gas tube to to an 18" barrel with rifle gas tube. I was thinking that my standard 3 weight carbine buffer would be too light, but I think you suggested it'll probably be what I need.
Thanks for the very informative video! Always wondered where the buffer 'standards' came from.
Please talk about .300 AAC/Blackout subsonic vs supersonic buffers.
That’s pretty simple, you need a very light buffer weigh for subsonic ammo. It’s not loaded very hot so it’s not going to be able to cycle the bolt if you have too much weight or too strong of a spring. If that’s what you are asking. But if you are using subsonic ammo most of the time then that will work to just set up your buffer and weight for subsonic ammo. It’s hard to tell you what to use because all of this is determined based upon what type of setup you have. Is it a carbine gas length, mid length, or rifle length. That drastically effects how certain ammo will cycle in the gun. The bigger the gun the bigger buffer weight and tube you need in order to slow the system down. The longer the barrel the more tube and weight is needed because it’s taking a lot longer for that gas to reach the gas tube because it’s much further down the barrel. If I may make a recommendation for what I have done, because who doesn’t like to use subsonic ammo on the range and with a suppressor ? It’s fun, it’s light, it’s kid friendly is you have kids and it’s like shooting a 22. If you are shooting subsonic ammo you can afford a good adjustable gas system which will allow you to shoot both with the simple turn or nob or a tool that comes with it.
Thanks, I understand the H, H2 and H3 when talking Buffers now.
Had a Colt 9mm come thru local shop. Was an interesting piece, the mag well had a filler pinned in place. Same shop also had an SP1 that had third pin with a block of steel on the third pin stamped deeply with "COLT"
Hope yours worked properly, mine never did.
Just a casual plinker here, awesome video and I really like the message of, and I paraphrase "plinker can tinker, but professionals leave it stock"
fantastic video and thanks for sharing so much of your knowledge. I can sit back and watch your channel and old gunblue490 all night and always learn one (or ten) things new every time. Great work and hope this channel continues to grow by leaps and bounds!
Great info! Would you do a buffer and spring explanation for the AR 10 family,?? spring/buffer lengths/weights. ??
As long as we all use common sense and listen to this man,we will be safe😊
Excellent video. Ton of knowledge and almost exactly what I was looking for. I'm trying to figure out what buffer I need for a 300 blk 7.5 inch pistol build
I forgot who makes them but you can get buffers now that let you play with the weights. So you don't need to buy different buffers. There's no way to know what you need. Gas ports vary. Tolerances in the BCG vary. You can have a big gas port and an inefficient BCG and you won't need any heavy buffers. Testing is the only way to know.
One buffer I've seen, plastic filled with shot instead of regular weights. You can tell by the rattle. I think these came in some very cheap build kits. Toss in the nearest trash can. Great video! I learned a lot.
Or use as a hammer 😂
Great video and detailed information. BLUF I got out of it is the buffer weight should match the barrel weight - lighter barrel = lighter buffer, heavy barrel = heavy buffer. Barrel length doesn't matter, barrel weight matters. Questions still exist about length of gas system, size of gas system ports, and how does being "over-gassed" impact the cycling and choice of buffer - and whether buffer weight even matters in an over-gassed set up?
What's your take on the Vltor A5 buffer system?
I run JP Silent Captured in all my builds, I am running a Heavy version in my MK12 inspired build, it has a very heavy barrel and rifle length gas system. I have never had an issue in any weather condition, I live in western WA, and the weather changes all the time
Will JP Silent Captured work on a BCM RECCE 11 with a suppressor AND CMMG 22LR Conversion kit?
What weight for the JP SCS?
@@MaxwellAerialPhotography JPSCS2-10H2
Great detailed explanation to a subject many confuse in trying to explain to me in the past...
I appreciate your content, and grabbed one of your shirts to show it. Cheers.
Rapid Butterfly greatly appreciate you!
Thanks for the information, was extremely helpful for my next m4 build.
The history on Colts engineering of the buffer was interesting and informative.
There are so many things that you can do with ar/m4 platform. There is always new things to learn, both right and the wrong was. Thx.
Great video, with some invaluable information in my opinion. What is your take on buffer springs, specifically flat wire versus standard round wire. To my understanding you can get a longer life span out of a flat wire spring and it eliminates the “twang” commonly associated with a round wire buffer spring. However I have no experience with a flat wire spring & I am curious if in your experience you have found any reliability issues with a flat wire buffer spring in either semi-auto and auto firing?
Wherever you are, wish you'd come back!! I've learned alot from you. Thank you for that.
I am still here. I am still available. Working as best as I can at the moment.
@SmallArmsSolutions I just found your channel again. I'm glad to see you still producing videos! I always liked your attention to detail and facts! Keep them coming, and I'll keep giving the thumbs up and sharing!
My DB15 16", 1 in 8", seemed a little over gassed for the 5.56 M193 and M855 ammo I was using, so I just switched to a slightly heavier H1 buffer to slow the action a hair, and it seems to have worked perfectly. Most of my firearms mods are subtle. My .40 P226 has many mods, but looks stock, except for the G10 grips, but has many mods to customize reset, trigger pull, recoil, trigger weight, and balance, to my standards.
Thank you for making the video you put a lot into it. It's appreciated!
Colt came out with the H6 buffer about 6-7 yrs ago. Designed for the M16 20" rifle gas with a carbine stock and receiver extension. Weight duplicates a standard rifle buffer. Functions reliable in burst or auto.
This also applies to a rifle length (A2) buffer tube on a Mk18 rifle.
For length of pull I prefer the 5/8" longer tube. Weight makes a big difference regarding cyclic rate and reliability.
Jerry makes the best buffer in my opinion. It works like hydraulic buffers but is uses opposing magnets instead.
Thank you for the history lesson! Very cool info. Maybe you can do your next vid on what buffers with what has length, barrel length etc. it would be really nice to see a video like this one going into the mechanics of it all together. 👍
I also would love to hear your thoughts and different spring weights.
Stick to colt factory spring lol
Andrew Pocowatchit gotcha 😁
Thank You. It's not likely I'll ever own, build or maintain anything other than a Semi-Auto AR-15 but the information was interesting.
I’m glad we have men who know what is real for our knowledge great job thanks for your telling us the truth😊
Good info it gave me lots of info I needed to determine what I need to do. Oh and one more thing invest in a mic that you can attach to your clothing and speak louder. You sounded like you were in the back of the room and didn't want to speak to loud because you didn't want someone to hear you.
Awesome video on a potentially confusing subject! You sir, are wealth of knowledge. Thanks for sharing!
Very helpful. I was getting short strokes on my 18” rifle length build today. I’ll change some of the weights to aluminum and see how she runs
Not sure if you got it straightened out, but it sounds like you may be getting too little gas. Have you checked for leaks around the gas block, gas block alignment, and that your gas key is installed/tight?
“This is a problem for only fully automatic” Jerry Mitchelic “Hold my beer” binary trigger “hold my beer” gat crank “hold my beer”
>Binary trigger
And now the Forced reset trigger.
Cleared up a lot of confusion for me thank you very much.
So...for those of us trying out own builds -- and assuming we can't afford a high-speed camera to be able to see bolt bounce -- how can we tune our buffer choice? Would it be fair to assume that using the HEAVIEST buffer (or buffer/spring combination -- when some of the stronger springs might be used) which always locks open on last round even at the lowest temperatures of operation is a good choice?
Thank you for the history and other valuable information behind buffers
What about systems shorter than 14.5”? Like a 10.5” Pistol AR? Do you need lighter or heavier buffers there?
Thanks. I generally prefer adjustable gas blocks on all my AR’s. I reload, and like to be able to tune them for my various loads, and seasons. Though it’s definitely an additional point of failure if you forgot what state of tune the AR is in, then try to take it to the range and it won’t cycle cause you tuned it down for a very soft load - and you forgot your adjustment tool at home. 🤦🏻♂️😂
With my limited knowledge, I would tend to go for a heavier buffer, but the goal overall is to get that 4:00 ejection imo. The lighter buffer will tend to give you closer to a 3:00 or even forward 2:00 ejections
My understand of buffers is unless you're shooting full auto "bolt bounce" is irrelevant. The time between shots is sufficient to allow the bolt to settle into place for the next round.
Excellent video. Your thoughts on silent capture Spring from JP enterprises.
How does the weight of a lightweight carrier group affect the buffer and buffer spring?
Good question.
@Phillip Cameron Thank you.
I have a Spike's Tactical powdered tungsten buffer in a 16" pencil bbl semi carbine, works fine for range use, and what I like most is no rattle sound during recoil.
I got the T1 for my C8 SFW bcm upper. The sound being virtually eliminated is awesome.
@John Beige I have the T2, which I believe is 1 oz heavier than standard. It is in a DPMS Oracle upper which has a carbine length gas system. Shoots great.
Guess I'll need to check function of my 2020 DDM4V7 with tubb ar15 spring and H2 for function in cold. Came with an H.
Love the video, could you do one on AR10/308.
In the past we just had rufle tube and stocks but in the last few years a lot more adjusable stocks with carbine tubes which seem to create a whole new monster regarding springs, buffers, adj gas blocks etc. Thanks
I like my spikes ST-T2 buffer. It’s about the weight of an H buffer but it also has a spider on the front of it and it can be used as a maraca in pinch.
This dude loves him some buffers. I’m talking about LOVES DEM BUFFS!!!!
Congrats on another successful post, albeit 3 yrs. belatedly..
Of particular interest to me is the Italian 222 set up..
As I understand you, this means; 2 empty car buffers inserted into a car spring at each end, so that when inserted into the tube, the rear buffer's metal (Large) end will contact the rear of the tube.
Assuming this is correct, what, if any, change need be made for function with a BRN-4 piston with light barrel, in your opinion?
I have thought about experimenting with different buffers but I never felt that any of my rifles recoil enough for me to care enough to do it.
I have a couple mid-length and a few carbine length gassed barrels ,all are 16". The difference in recoil and cyclical rate are negligible for the type of shooting I do and I have never had a reliable concern. All are mil-spec buffer and have NB coated BCGs.
Oh wow... I was just about to put a VLTOR A5 Spring & Buffer Kit into a build with an 18 inch rifle length gas system. I was under the impression that the A5 would be appropriate. You saved me some frustration. I'll use an H buffer system with carbine tube.
For my 18 inch mid length barrels, what is the appropriate buffer weight?
What about a 14.5" lightweight barrel with carbine length gas system, using a lightweight BCG, that is sometimes suppressed? Everyone would just tell me to change springs and buffers, but I wondered if an adjustable gas block wouldn't be part of the solution.
It will solve you issues but tak no on what kind on ammunition you get it run 100% with cause thats generally what your stuck using if its one of those million and a half gas setting blocks. Had to go that route for my ar10
Random UA-cam fan: "How deep into research did your Colt research get?"
Me: "Back Brace episodes!"
Random UA-cam fan: damn...
The carbine buffer my AR came with has 1 solid weight in it. When I changed to a mid length gas system the bolt/buffer were slamming into the receiver extension so hard it unseated a so on single point sling adapter I have.
I bought a bigger kit to try a H1 (currently running a H2) and found that when I put the weights in I didn't have room for the rubber spacers. Getting erratic extraction so I may play with a H1.
You do not have a Mil-Spec buffer. Some commercial bastardized version
Do I need heavier buffer or lighter buffer? Short strokes with 145gr surplus ammo (which have great accuracy) shoots good with 150gr rem core lock and functions well. Carbine buffer tube, 4oz buffer, 18in barrel rifle length gas system. Non adjustable gas block. Gas block is aligned properly.
You made good points. But I would have gone more in depth into the other factors in the system. Gas port size, adj gas block, spring rate, carrier weight.
Thank you for sharing your deep knowledge on the subject! I left enlightened!
11.5 sbr with carbine gas system and carbine tube. Recommendations on buffer. Was originally a RRA 16". Have the standard, H1, and H2.
What did you go with? Did you try them all - if so, what were the results?
I always heard ar15 makers ship with light bugfers to ensure all ammo works, even lighter loads, and that can beat the hell out of the gun. Never thought about the cold, but then again don't shoot my ar15's in cold temps. Good info.
AR guys be like: what buffer should I use during winter months and which one during summer?
AK guys be like: I just cleaned my AK with an garden hose, can I use a microwave to dry it?
That’s actually pretty funny, but AK guys would have the same problems if AKs were as popular as ARs, and there was as many aftermarket options and variations that changes how the gun operates.
🤣 you made coffee come out my nose!!!
@@7seasons31 There are more and more accessories being made for AKs, and every time someone fucks around with mechanics, they screw shit up. In Russia there is a heap of things.
@@7seasons31 Nonsense.
@@Max_Da_G I don’t know why some people are so obsessed with buying something and then fiddling around with shit like the trigger and hammer...
My AR ejects brass at about 1 o'clock. Should I go to a heavier buffer?
Quite a few good things in there that I did not know. Super helpful! Thanks!
Love my LMT piston CQB MRP.
Okay, so I have a 300blk pistol length gas system in a 16” AR, and the majority of what I’ve shot out of it so far is 150gr FMJ supers. I’m switching to 130gr OTM. I don’t believe I’ll be using subsonic out of it anytime soon at all. I took too training classes this weekend and had two malfunctions out of 750 rounds. I knew the rifle was extremely over gassed, and I understand why they do this, because of the very large range of ammo in 300blk. The recoil is extremely uncomfortable in prone or on a bench rest. I’d like to tame that recoil a good bit. I put a mussel brake on and it seemed to make very little difference if any. So I ordered the H and H2 buffers today. I’m always very anxious about doing anything that could hamper reliability. This 300blk is my home defense firearm. I mentioned the two malfunctions, the rifle was not well lubricated. After applying some lube it ran all day about 500+ rounds no problem. So I want to tame the recoil as much as possible while maintaining a very high standard of reliability. Long winded question to ask, Help? Lol
@19:19 - So the paper underneath the H3 buffer should say 3 Tungsten Weights not 1 like is shows. Right ?
H3 = 3 tungsten weights
Have you tried DPM buffers and guide rods? They utilize progressive spring dampening... seems that bolt bounce and valve bounce are the same problem
This was absolutely fascinating! Thanks for the amazing knowledge
I'm listening to the part about the hydraulic buffer and wondering why they wouldn't simplify it with a die spring? If you're Colt and you can order springs by the tens of thousands, you could get a variable rate spring that would have the same resistance profile as the hydraulic?
Don’t know if I missed it but should you get a good buffer system along with an adjustable gas block? I’m building a 12.5” carbine gas length
Hey! The first thing he said was colts been there done that and stick to what came in your rifle! Even if you didnt buy a colt, regardless of barrel length, gas port adjustment, just stop messing around with it your going to get yourself killed in the winter and or summer time lol. Dont worry tho his body armour will shield him from my sarcasm