@@RetroRalph haha. Right? Actually I was doing research on replacing joysticks on countercades. (My NBA Jam CC has never been quite right but I wanted to take on an “easy” project. Come to find out I’m pretty sure you can’t throw Sanwas in the CCs). Anywho, not the first time YT has led me to a video of yours. I was looking at T2 pinball stuff (T2 is my favorite movie all time bar none) and it brought me to you steaming a play through if it on the PS4. I had no idea it existed. So I bought that PS4 disc. Happy holidays my RI brother from another mother. 🤠Even though I consider myself to follow your channel regularly (even if on the replay) I continue to find “new” material of yours for some reason. 🤷♂️
NOTE: The audio jack output (speaker connection) on the Arcade1Up board is already amplified and is not meant to connect to another amplifier (unless high level input is used). This means you should cut off the 3.5mm jack and connect the bare wires to the high level input on a suitable amplifier. Using the amplified output from the Arcade1Up board into a line/low level input on an external amplifier could damage everything in the chain (at a minimum doing it wrong would create more audio distortion... this is the noise Ralph mentions).
Is there a way to extract the raw unamplified audio?? I use the same setup with my Sega Genesis using the headphone jack to get stereo sound. I have it going from the 3.5mm jack(amplified by the console itself) going into stereo RCA inputs on my mini hi fi receiver and I have never had an issue with it. No humm, no feedback and definitely no damage. Just wondering how this is any different as A1up components are not easy to replace if it's out of warranty.
Arcade machines don't have some protective cover under the sticks anyway, just put the plastic in the empty cab in case you need it and leave it as is, it's not an issue in the slightest.
Literally just use mine to hold extra parts. I removed it as it is a waste on time trying to take it off anytime I want to mess with things down there.
For the controldeck cover , maybe a baseball ball and a heatgun, push from inside with the baseball ball and heatgun will melt plastic to give space for the Happ sticks to move free, no holes , I don't know if it will work, just a idea , even golf ball also, maybe even better, maybe add heavy Vaseline on the Happ sticks on the bottom to mark where you can't use the heatgun and the ball to shape plastic
This is awesome. You just gave me a few ideas to upgrade my Big Blue! Audio is a HUGE factor when it comes to my entertainment. From movies to gaming, it matters big time. And that sub adds weight to the cab so if anything it add a bit of stability to the cab. I am digging it!
I have a very small space packed full of stuff. Including a huge Trinitron tv with built-in subwoofer. So I just can't fit a regular Arcade 1up. I do however have the TMNT and Marvel 2 player countercades. The easiest sound mod I have found for them and it would work with the full size as well. The countercades have a 3.5 mm headphone jack on them. Well I have a 3.5mm to RCA cord. Just plug it into the audio on the front av connection on the Trinitron. Boom instant stereo sound with bass!!!
Bro, tell me i can take the 3.5mm cable from the stock speakers and adapt them to the terminal. I'm not trying to crack open and solder these speakers, jesus.
Ralph you should get me on the show you know how they do car competitions with lowriders to see how hi they can bounce the cars we should go TMNT arcade 1up cab verse TMNT arcade 1up cab mods and all!
Ive thought up a mod for 1ups, take off the left side panel of one, the right side panel of another, combine with a double sided screw or peg, and put in an extra wide and short gaming monitor.
I would guess shakers would tear these cabinets apart. If I upgrade my audio I am just going to do a good pair of 4" speakers and move on but this is really cool...
3:00 I was concerned that might happen. I ran into a similar problem a few months ago. I had some extra Happ sticks laying around and cheap universal arcade stick- I drilled new holes in the top of the base for the Happ sticks, bolted and wired it up, tested it and it was working great ... then I tried to put the back plate on.
Don Draper I was going to try a router but I don’t think there’s enough wood to make that work and keep the sticks secure. I’m still trying to come up with the best option. 🤔 You have any ideas? Thanks for watching by the way!
@@RetroRalph Aside from using the dremel, the only other option I can think of is elevating the control panel from the back cover by using wood as a spacer around the areas where they bolt together but that may be more trouble than it's worth. As always, it's my pleasure!
I do not know if it my ears or what...but I have trouble hearing certain notes in the music of the cab. When i play a rom file on a pc instead the music is much better. Example: the music in alleycat blues...the strumming guitar (how music starts) is nice and loud, but the piano that follows is so low...and normally it is the piano that is the dominant note. Will a mixer fix this?
I am not sure if you found a solution yet, but I just installed the Happ Competition sticks before seeing this video and had to be creative as well. I ended up drilling a 1 1/2-2” hole directly above and centered on each joystick to give it the extra space it needed. Also, since the Happ Competition mounting plate has 8 holes, I...get ready...RAN TWO OF THE JOYSTICKS THROUGH MY TABLE SAW....YIKES....to just take out the outside set of holes and give me more room. I also, CAREFULLY, bent the tabs on the switch facing out so the wires would not interfere with the top. Everything now fits great and I have minimal exposure to dust...or little fingers....on the ends that hang over. (The rest of the mod involved replacing and adding Happ switches, usb encoders and Raspberry Pi. I also figured out a great way to drill out additional button holes in the acrylic deck protector without cracking or breaking it.) I will post my solution soon. Thanks for all the content!
I'm disappointed in the bottons for this cabinet because the buttons were not clicky at all and the joystick feels weird like you said. The Walmart display already has one turtle not working anymore after only weeks. I think its dumb to have a level skip and no difficulty setting.They could have thrown in comic book mode or the SNES version of turtles in time. The small speakers have no bass either so it's crappy speakers. I love the coin option, but it would be ausome if it worked. Coin/Start is dumb for arcade 1up. No light up marquee either for 400 bucks? Nice subwoofer! I recall the arcade have more bass. Plus lvl 1 had a pizza and falling lava rocks.
Howdy, what adapter are you using for the Marquee light into the power source on the new PCB board? Please provide a link when you get a moment. Thanks man! Appreciate you sharing these videos. Awesome work!
Thank you for this, I just ordered the same subwoofer for my sf2ce arcade1up! I have the 2.1 amp you always used to use, hopefully it's enough power at 4ohms to push this sub, I honestly think it'll be perfect!
What about long plastic screw spacers(like on universal tv wall mounts) and just live with the gap for the stick covers? Or thick black door weather seal for a car run across the rim on the cover; if the gap is less than 3/4 inch it may work perfect.
+Retro Ralph - Could you not use some stand offs on the wood of the controller to allow for the height difference...so that you can bolt the the plastic base back on?
Very nice Video. If i buy the Turtles in tome Arcade from 1UP i would like to put a small extra Subwoofer into it... 🙂Do you need an amplifier anyway? What happens if you just plug in a small Subwoofer like the (Pioneer TS-WX130EA)?
@@undyingforce that is exactly what im wondering. will the current board still work or is there a new or different lcd board we have to get to make it work in the same way. im really hoping to find out what exactly i will need so i dont feel like i have to get an old version of the arcade1up because of a possibility of there not being a current lcd board that works.
My local Walmart now has the Street Fighter II cabs for $74. It is a real struggle for me to NOT buy it. But I don't have the space for it. And I don't have the time to mod it either. It's killing me, but they'll probably be sold out tomorrow.
Dude, you put comp sticks on a two-game beat-'em-up? Tell me you threw a Pi or a PB in there? That duel coin door is nice, I've only been able to find the single coin with the replacement front panel/kick plate.
You forgot to mention how you use the original speakers with the amp? You probably ditched the 3.5mm wire that originally came with the speakers, but what gauge speaker wire did you use?
@Kevin Landry it's pretty much the cheapest subwoofer and amp combo on Amazon. That skar sub is pretty much the cheapest speaker with enclosure. It's not ideal, but it works for the application.
@Kevin Landry yeah I got it all + some cheapo 4" speakers for about $130 on Amazon. Running through the LCD HDMI converter board w/ raspberry pi, the TMNT games sound way better than stock.
@Kevin Landry yeah it's my first custom build. I'm actually almost done. Just waiting on 1 Sanwa joystick and a couple buttons. Are you going with the stock board or going to use a raspberry pi?
@@kevinlandry4125 I had to change the buttons. The stock ones are way too mushy. I also heard that you can fix the joystick wiggle and responsiveness by swapping out the springs with better ones.
followed your link for the coin door, they really have no description of what it is, so you said it's non-working, non-functional but when you opened it these is plenty of gear on the backside that appears to have coin mechs and Tulsa wants 100 bucks for it with front wood board where as x-arcade gets 50 bucks for a real iron double coindoor WITH coin mechs that works. So Ralph, what is yours?
Hahaha.. original stick had to much Wiggle Whahahaha... no Ralphy just say IT !! Wicked Wiggle Stick :P And about the audio.. it's really wicked ... Sub-Woofer... OMG next lvl audio modding indeed :P
Hey dude , sick mods!! Any thing going on with making these run other 4 player games ? I just had one sent to Australia the shipping was more than the machine lol but had to have it. Also wondering if you thought about a turtles in time cabinet mod ?
Can you do the player select +coin in the same button for mods? I have the marvel cabinet on order and want to avoid drilling extra holes the create the “coin” button.
First Last You sure can and I will sometimes do that on mods where I use original PCB boards. What are you running for the system? (I.e PC, Raspberry Pi, Pandora’s box?)
Retro Ralph I’m look to mod the special edition marvels cab with a pandora 6. Since this is a limited edition, I want to make the mod while keeping the cabinets original look. I’ve seen a few mod vids and really want no more than a few key games (Street fighter, nba jam, Simpson, and a few others). Thanks for the quick response also!
Oh I feel so sad you went with the two door instead of the four coin door. 😢 you so let me down Retro Rick. Lol j/k, it’s all good you know I’ll represent for you. Four coin door was just sent to JC to see what he can do 🙂
Tried using the same exact amp and sub. Welp looks like it may have been a bit too overkill for the a1u because now my a1u wont turn on. Think I fried the lcd board. So now I gotta mod the entire unit with raspberry pi. Didnt want to but have no choice now.
Dude, that's an awesome idea... I have no clue why I didn't think of that but I love it! Thanks man, also thanks for watching and supporting the channel.
You should have continued the intro from before when you first reviewed the cab. Maybe that's something to consider to keep your intros entertaining...where the intros build off of previous ones? Like commercials sometimes do, at least when they were trying to not be PC.
Anyone looking for a button kit that will fit in the deck no problem, I used this one. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071WC7TGK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image Also when you go to add the new joysticks, you can remove your original joysticks brackets and install them on the new sticks. Makes install a breeze.
Neither on is plug and play, although DIY Retro Arcade does give you a plug and play option for Sanwa JLF sticks on their website: www.diyretroarcade.com/index.php/genuine-sanwa-jlf-tp-8yt-5-pin-joystick-1.html
So much unexplained in this video.... You ever figure any of this out? I think I'll use 14AWG on the sub, and just buy some cheap 4" speakers on amazon and wire it that way through this amp.
How did I miss this gem of a video from 3 years ago?!🤷♂️👍😂🤞
How did you even find this video? Haha…. Thanks for watching man, I appreciate the support! Subwoofers 🔊 belong in EVERYTHING!!!
@@RetroRalph haha. Right? Actually I was doing research on replacing joysticks on countercades. (My NBA Jam CC has never been quite right but I wanted to take on an “easy” project. Come to find out I’m pretty sure you can’t throw Sanwas in the CCs). Anywho, not the first time YT has led me to a video of yours. I was looking at T2 pinball stuff (T2 is my favorite movie all time bar none) and it brought me to you steaming a play through if it on the PS4. I had no idea it existed. So I bought that PS4 disc. Happy holidays my RI brother from another mother. 🤠Even though I consider myself to follow your channel regularly (even if on the replay) I continue to find “new” material of yours for some reason. 🤷♂️
NOTE: The audio jack output (speaker connection) on the Arcade1Up board is already amplified and is not meant to connect to another amplifier (unless high level input is used). This means you should cut off the 3.5mm jack and connect the bare wires to the high level input on a suitable amplifier. Using the amplified output from the Arcade1Up board into a line/low level input on an external amplifier could damage everything in the chain (at a minimum doing it wrong would create more audio distortion... this is the noise Ralph mentions).
Is there a way to extract the raw unamplified audio?? I use the same setup with my Sega Genesis using the headphone jack to get stereo sound. I have it going from the 3.5mm jack(amplified by the console itself) going into stereo RCA inputs on my mini hi fi receiver and I have never had an issue with it. No humm, no feedback and definitely no damage. Just wondering how this is any different as A1up components are not easy to replace if it's out of warranty.
@7:33 : Note to self don't touch exposed board pins when powered on x-D
Arcade machines don't have some protective cover under the sticks anyway, just put the plastic in the empty cab in case you need it and leave it as is, it's not an issue in the slightest.
Literally just use mine to hold extra parts. I removed it as it is a waste on time trying to take it off anytime I want to mess with things down there.
For the controldeck cover , maybe a baseball ball and a heatgun, push from inside with the baseball ball and heatgun will melt plastic to give space for the Happ sticks to move free, no holes , I don't know if it will work, just a idea , even golf ball also, maybe even better, maybe add heavy Vaseline on the Happ sticks on the bottom to mark where you can't use the heatgun and the ball to shape plastic
That’s an awesome set of mods! Love the sub woofer. And Happ Competitions are my favorite joysticks. Nice job!
Alrighty...now I need to download "Wiggle It" to relive my 90's clubbing days.
LMAO!!! This comment just made my day, Thanks for watching!
@@RetroRalph ua-cam.com/video/bk-Qtp08LSg/v-deo.html
@@thefatsalmon LOL!!!!
This is awesome. You just gave me a few ideas to upgrade my Big Blue! Audio is a HUGE factor when it comes to my entertainment. From movies to gaming, it matters big time. And that sub adds weight to the cab so if anything it add a bit of stability to the cab. I am digging it!
You never could go wrong with a big subwoofer 😭
"friggin' sweet"-P.G.
Awesome work Ralph! I am modding my TMNT Arcade 1up Cabinet too and your videos are very helpful! Thanks a lot!
Thanks for watching bud and I’m glad they’re helping out. I appreciate your support 😀
Nice video man, and also currently the #1 search result for “arcade1up”. Well done.
Thanks for the continued support bud, it's much appreciated!
Damn. Built in a rumble pack! Hell ya
I need to try the bass shaker and see if that does the trick. It would take up a lot less space than the subwoofer, stay tuned. Thanks for watching!
I have a very small space packed full of stuff. Including a huge Trinitron tv with built-in subwoofer. So I just can't fit a regular Arcade 1up. I do however have the TMNT and Marvel 2 player countercades. The easiest sound mod I have found for them and it would work with the full size as well. The countercades have a 3.5 mm headphone jack on them. Well I have a 3.5mm to RCA cord. Just plug it into the audio on the front av connection on the Trinitron. Boom instant stereo sound with bass!!!
Bro, tell me i can take the 3.5mm cable from the stock speakers and adapt them to the terminal. I'm not trying to crack open and solder these speakers, jesus.
Ralph you should get me on the show you know how they do car competitions with lowriders to see how hi they can bounce the cars we should go TMNT arcade 1up cab verse TMNT arcade 1up cab mods and all!
Ive thought up a mod for 1ups, take off the left side panel of one, the right side panel of another, combine with a double sided screw or peg, and put in an extra wide and short gaming monitor.
With the amp you show, can you adjust the balance of the left and right speakers individually ?
Sweet Retro Ralph nice work i wanna upgrade my TMNT sign mines coming Friday and sound
I just used the vizio 2.1 soundbar with the 5 inch wireless sub and its fast plug and play and sounds bad ass
I would guess shakers would tear these cabinets apart. If I upgrade my audio I am just going to do a good pair of 4" speakers and move on but this is really cool...
3:00 I was concerned that might happen. I ran into a similar problem a few months ago. I had some extra Happ sticks laying around and cheap universal arcade stick- I drilled new holes in the top of the base for the Happ sticks, bolted and wired it up, tested it and it was working great
... then I tried to put the back plate on.
Don Draper I was going to try a router but I don’t think there’s enough wood to make that work and keep the sticks secure. I’m still trying to come up with the best option. 🤔 You have any ideas? Thanks for watching by the way!
@@RetroRalph Aside from using the dremel, the only other option I can think of is elevating the control panel from the back cover by using wood as a spacer around the areas where they bolt together but that may be more trouble than it's worth.
As always, it's my pleasure!
@@RetroRalph better ask Tulsa arcade or 99 lives to batch something up they will listen to you.
Love the coin door and sound mod. Definitely gonna do the same once i get my machine
I do not know if it my ears or what...but I have trouble hearing certain notes in the music of the cab. When i play a rom file on a pc instead the music is much better. Example: the music in alleycat blues...the strumming guitar (how music starts) is nice and loud, but the piano that follows is so low...and normally it is the piano that is the dominant note. Will a mixer fix this?
I am not sure if you found a solution yet, but I just installed the Happ Competition sticks before seeing this video and had to be creative as well. I ended up drilling a 1 1/2-2” hole directly above and centered on each joystick to give it the extra space it needed. Also, since the Happ Competition mounting plate has 8 holes, I...get ready...RAN TWO OF THE JOYSTICKS THROUGH MY TABLE SAW....YIKES....to just take out the outside set of holes and give me more room. I also, CAREFULLY, bent the tabs on the switch facing out so the wires would not interfere with the top. Everything now fits great and I have minimal exposure to dust...or little fingers....on the ends that hang over. (The rest of the mod involved replacing and adding Happ switches, usb encoders and Raspberry Pi. I also figured out a great way to drill out additional button holes in the acrylic deck protector without cracking or breaking it.) I will post my solution soon. Thanks for all the content!
Pretty damn awsome set up.
I'm disappointed in the bottons for this cabinet because the buttons were not clicky at all and the joystick feels weird like you said. The Walmart display already has one turtle not working anymore after only weeks. I think its dumb to have a level skip and no difficulty setting.They could have thrown in comic book mode or the SNES version of turtles in time.
The small speakers have no bass either so it's crappy speakers.
I love the coin option, but it would be ausome if it worked. Coin/Start is dumb for arcade 1up.
No light up marquee either for 400 bucks?
Nice subwoofer!
I recall the arcade have more bass.
Plus lvl 1 had a pizza and falling lava rocks.
How did you power the sub amp and what ohm sub did you use? If you are using the 3.5 jack for the sub how are the original speakers connected?
Howdy, what adapter are you using for the Marquee light into the power source on the new PCB board? Please provide a link when you get a moment. Thanks man! Appreciate you sharing these videos. Awesome work!
Thank you for this, I just ordered the same subwoofer for my sf2ce arcade1up! I have the 2.1 amp you always used to use, hopefully it's enough power at 4ohms to push this sub, I honestly think it'll be perfect!
I did spring option. Works good.
Hahaha sick!! Great job! Keep them coming!
SKAR!
What if you just put nylon spacers between the cover and the control panel? You'd still have a slight gap, but nothing terrible.
What about long plastic screw spacers(like on universal tv wall mounts) and just live with the gap for the stick covers? Or thick black door weather seal for a car run across the rim on the cover; if the gap is less than 3/4 inch it may work perfect.
Do the happ sticks bolt in? Or did you have to mod the wood control deck?
Im sure somebody will come up with custom bat tops for the tmnt cab without issues. Just screw on..and turtle time🐢👊
Arcade 1up should know that their order is incorrect. It goes Leonardo, then RAPHAEL, then Donatello, then MICHELANGELO
Wow this looks glorious!!!!⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Great job!!!
+Retro Ralph - Could you not use some stand offs on the wood of the controller to allow for the height difference...so that you can bolt the the plastic base back on?
Very nice Video. If i buy the Turtles in tome Arcade from 1UP i would like to put a small extra Subwoofer into it... 🙂Do you need an amplifier anyway? What happens if you just plug in a small Subwoofer like the (Pioneer TS-WX130EA)?
That's actually pretty awesome
i think what im most interested in is what mods you use for the new display if i wanted to add a pi. so far i havent seen any vids on that yet.
Jon S I am curious if the same lcd board from ETA Prime video will work.
@@undyingforce that is exactly what im wondering. will the current board still work or is there a new or different lcd board we have to get to make it work in the same way. im really hoping to find out what exactly i will need so i dont feel like i have to get an old version of the arcade1up because of a possibility of there not being a current lcd board that works.
My local Walmart now has the Street Fighter II cabs for $74. It is a real struggle for me to NOT buy it. But I don't have the space for it. And I don't have the time to mod it either. It's killing me, but they'll probably be sold out tomorrow.
Jesus christ dude. Should have bought every single one they had and resold them.
Dude, you put comp sticks on a two-game beat-'em-up? Tell me you threw a Pi or a PB in there? That duel coin door is nice, I've only been able to find the single coin with the replacement front panel/kick plate.
You forgot to mention how you use the original speakers with the amp? You probably ditched the 3.5mm wire that originally came with the speakers, but what gauge speaker wire did you use?
@Kevin Landry it's pretty much the cheapest subwoofer and amp combo on Amazon. That skar sub is pretty much the cheapest speaker with enclosure. It's not ideal, but it works for the application.
@Kevin Landry yeah I got it all + some cheapo 4" speakers for about $130 on Amazon. Running through the LCD HDMI converter board w/ raspberry pi, the TMNT games sound way better than stock.
@Kevin Landry yeah it's my first custom build. I'm actually almost done. Just waiting on 1 Sanwa joystick and a couple buttons. Are you going with the stock board or going to use a raspberry pi?
@@chunkylover5367 Haven't decided yet. For now I was only going to mod the audio but later I might use a rasberry pie. :)
@@kevinlandry4125 I had to change the buttons. The stock ones are way too mushy. I also heard that you can fix the joystick wiggle and responsiveness by swapping out the springs with better ones.
followed your link for the coin door, they really have no description of what it is, so you said it's non-working, non-functional but when you opened it these is plenty of gear on the backside that appears to have coin mechs and Tulsa wants 100 bucks for it with front wood board where as x-arcade gets 50 bucks for a real iron double coindoor WITH coin mechs that works. So Ralph, what is yours?
Hahaha.. original stick had to much Wiggle Whahahaha... no Ralphy just say IT !! Wicked Wiggle Stick :P
And about the audio.. it's really wicked ... Sub-Woofer... OMG next lvl audio modding indeed :P
You are the true originator of the “Wicked Wiggle Stick”. 🤣. Miss you bud!
Hahaha! You coaching the kids soccer team between Mods? Where's the Mini-Van and when are you modding it with larger drinking cup holders?
Now that’s funny! 🤣🤣 mobile Mod services
great video im here also in AZ any news you may know of as far as a release date for the burgertime cabinet
Which springs would you recommend for the original sticks?
Zachary Matheny These will work in the stock sticks: www.focusattack.com/4lb-tension-spring-for-sanwa-jlf/
How about four separate coin slots put into a custom door you can make?
It’s a possibility 👍🏻
Quick question. Where did you mount the LED strip for your marquee?
Hey dude , sick mods!! Any thing going on with making these run other 4 player games ? I just had one sent to Australia the shipping was more than the machine lol but had to have it. Also wondering if you thought about a turtles in time cabinet mod ?
Can you do the player select +coin in the same button for mods? I have the marvel cabinet on order and want to avoid drilling extra holes the create the “coin” button.
First Last You sure can and I will sometimes do that on mods where I use original PCB boards. What are you running for the system? (I.e PC, Raspberry Pi, Pandora’s box?)
Retro Ralph I’m look to mod the special edition marvels cab with a pandora 6. Since this is a limited edition, I want to make the mod while keeping the cabinets original look. I’ve seen a few mod vids and really want no more than a few key games (Street fighter, nba jam, Simpson, and a few others). Thanks for the quick response also!
Retro Ralph how do u map the “select” button in this scenario?
Would that coin door fit the gen 1 machines? Thinking of grabbing one for my sf2 cab
Oh I feel so sad you went with the two door instead of the four coin door. 😢 you so let me down Retro Rick. Lol j/k, it’s all good you know I’ll represent for you. Four coin door was just sent to JC to see what he can do 🙂
how did you get the arcade1up Soccer shill jacket?
The were kind enough to give me one at E3. I’m not sure if they sell them or not.
Where did you get the jacket
Lol I love this channel
Thanks man, comments like this hype me up! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Can you do light up marque on TMNT, street fighter and final fight ?
Tried using the same exact amp and sub. Welp looks like it may have been a bit too overkill for the a1u because now my a1u wont turn on. Think I fried the lcd board. So now I gotta mod the entire unit with raspberry pi. Didnt want to but have no choice now.
Just drill holes under where the stick moves.
Dude, that's an awesome idea... I have no clue why I didn't think of that but I love it! Thanks man, also thanks for watching and supporting the channel.
Klassic Kim...kinda right???
🤣🤣🤣🤣
You should have continued the intro from before when you first reviewed the cab. Maybe that's something to consider to keep your intros entertaining...where the intros build off of previous ones? Like commercials sometimes do, at least when they were trying to not be PC.
scared me with intro ralph
Where did you get the bat joysticks from?!? I’ve been looking everywhere
First Last www.ebaystores.com/TORNADO-TERRYS-ARCADE-PARTS-SUPPLY Keep in mind you will run into the same issue that I did.
Anyone looking for a button kit that will fit in the deck no problem, I used this one.
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071WC7TGK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
Also when you go to add the new joysticks, you can remove your original joysticks brackets and install them on the new sticks. Makes install a breeze.
I would have to change yellow to orange. That has allways bothered me!
Is the joystick a plug and play for either the happ and sanwa joysticks ?
Neither on is plug and play, although DIY Retro Arcade does give you a plug and play option for Sanwa JLF sticks on their website: www.diyretroarcade.com/index.php/genuine-sanwa-jlf-tp-8yt-5-pin-joystick-1.html
What type of wire gauge did you use for the subwoofer and for the speakers?
So much unexplained in this video.... You ever figure any of this out? I think I'll use 14AWG on the sub, and just buy some cheap 4" speakers on amazon and wire it that way through this amp.
Amazing!!!!!
Sweet
Nice
👍👍
This would of been better if you actually stopped talking and just play so we can hear the actual audio but you kept talking and interrupting
Buy longer bolts.
Looks better original just my opinion 🤷🏽♂️
$$$ f*** it too much