heat treating small parts out of 1095 steel
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- heat treating small parts like pocket knife blades and springs is pretty much the same as for larger pieces of steel like kitchen knives and such, but you do have to make sure that the steel stays at critical temp during the trip from the forge or kiln to the oil for it to harden properly, and here are some tips to help you make sure that happens. caltoncutlery.com
Great. Thank you
Fantastic video as always, Joe! You've probably forgotten more about working with 1095 than most guys will ever learn. The carrier idea is genius.
thanks for the kind words! I have heat treated a pretty big pile of 1095 :}
Thank you for taking your time to make these videos. I am sure you have a lot else you could be doing. I watch Knife videos let just say a lot.
As for as I am concerned you have the best knife videos on the web.
Your honestly and method of presentation
In a way that even I can understand. I especially enjoy the heat treat and sharperning videos.
thank you for the kind words, and I am glad to hear that you enjoy the videos!
Agree.
Thanks for all the great tips!👍
thanks for watching!
thanks. such a brilliant technique. Using the bulk of the larger object to keep the smaller one toasty :) I like this.
Thanks for sharing Joe I learned a few things.
you are welcome, glad you enjoyed it!
Do you use this same heat treat technique for both your 440c and 1095
steel? Also on a folder with 1095 steel is the main spring also 1095 steel
with 440c I use the kiln for the heat, but still quench in canola oil. 440c is an air or oil hardening steel, and doesnt need such a fast trip to the oil as 1095. yes on a 1095 slipjoint, the spring will be 1095 also, just tempered softer to make a good spring
Hey Joe. Have you tried lower carbon steels than 1095? Larrin's tests seem to show that 1095 and O1 have quite a bit lower strength at the same hardness as 1084. Do you rely on the higher hardness and wesr resistance achievable by 1095 for the thinner geometry stability you usually aim for?
Most knives in carbon steel seem to be made of carbon steel in the .95% range, so there must be a notable benefit. Something like 52100 has better specs at high hardness, on paper. Just curious what your thoughts are, since you're a cut above the usual smiths that don't get the higher performance, nor seem to want to.
i have not used known 1084 except in mixes with 15n20 for pattern welded steel. i have worked with 1095, w-1, 52100, 5160, 15n20, 440c, as well as played with old springs and files and such. i would think that it would be very tough to tell the difference inbetween 1095 and 1084 from a practical standpoint. as in if i made 2 knives, one in 1084 and one in 1095, both from good suppliers, both on the same day with the same heat treat and both sharpened on the same stone. in a normal workday i doubt that you could tell the 2 apart. maybe in a controlled cut contest on clean rope or other materials, you might see a repeatable difference. i think the variables such as particular steel melt, sharpening angle changes in normal hand sharpening, small grinding variables, changes in speed and pressure from cut to cut, ect... would far outweigh a couple points in carbon content of the starting steel.
for toughness in most of the 1095 knives that I make, i rely on a good heat treat and fine grain, and thin geometry that cuts with far less force in each cut, and also you get some flexibilty at thinner grinds, so that the knife will flex a bit to let the user know its time to back off before it bends or breaks. also 1095 is easy to differentitally harden or temper so you can run the spines softer for added toughness to support harder edges.
@@joecalton1449 Good points. Larrin may have gotten a more mediocre batch of 1095 for his tests, but even so at higher hardness, the 1084 loses toughness much faster so by 63 HRC they're essentially on equal ground. You seem to run them even harder than that so 1095 might even win out.
@@mikafoxx2717 the couple of knives that I have sent off to get tested came out at 61-62, and a new nicholson file will usually half cut and half skate on the edge portion of my 1095 knives. steel comparisons have got to be tough work, there is so much that can go into it. i think it is far easier to pick a small handfull of steels and just work them for a couple of decades and learn all you can about them.