On my 06, I am running a 4 port for my boost my gear. I followed Hondata’s suggestions and eventually got it working. It does require some dialing in for duty cycle and frequency. You really should have sorted that before the dyno day. Those are solid numbers. I would run a little softer spring so first and second will be more useful on the street, like a 5-6lb spring.
The thing to think about with that pin on the ECU is that it doesn't just affect the alternator at idle. A lot of the time manufactures will engage the clutch on the alternator under heavy load. This is done to reduce parasitic draw from the alternator when you're say accelerating onto the freeway (or doing pulls). So in theory using that pin may increase parasitic draw, not by much but something to think about.
on my boosted 8th gen im just running a 3 port from aem with their gauge with a built in boost controller. works fine, 4 ports are a pain on this chassis
I wish PRL still had their kit selling but it was discontinued. I really want to do turbo but I would’ve never known to do what you did during your dyno session lol. I do prefer turbo though. Kraftwerks sc kit reasonable but also limited.
@henryflores8981 don't waste your money on crapwerks. My 8th gen is turbo also. Way more bang for your buck in the long run and can do it for a good cost If you do most of the work yourself, along with knowing people:)
Go to the junkyard and get an ecu connector… the pins for boost solenoid should be a gold pin, the silver one is larger so it causes issues.. The bottom rows on the connector is gold, the top ones are silver
I used the purge control solenoid pin & moved it from pin 3 to pin 2. They are on the same row so the pins are the exact same size. Pin 2 is the EGR output, which is what Hondata specifies they want as the boost control output so it should be working. I wish this was the case though, would be a much easier fix.
I would recommend getting an electronic boost controller and getting rid of the Hondata boost control. That’s what I did I got the Turbosmart Eboost2 and it works flawlessly plus I can adjust it on the fly. I know a lot of guys run the Cortex EBC also would look at getting a 3 port boost control solenoid the 4 port is over kill. Those ecu pin are not a reliable source. Hope this helps.
The Hondata 4 port is an electronic boost control solenoid. What do you mean the ecu pins are not a reliable source? Those ecu pins are what control 99% of the sensor & solenoid outputs/signals on the car. They are like the most reliable source you can get 😅
Aem 310 is better e85 nad put 2 tunes and it will mak more you have to take your axle heads and put bigger inner shafts cause the holes amare diffrent they make 450hp all day 16:02
@@carlosveliz3343 You don’t need a 10A fuse on a PWM ground side control wire. The fuse stays on the positive side of the circuit incase there is a short to ground prior to the sensor or load.
@@carlosveliz3343 I explained this in the video. The purge valve ground side control is pin B3. I removed pin B3 & moved it to the empty slot (Pin B2) which is the EGR output used for boost control. The ECU should be duty cycling that ground & it’s not.
The PWM sensor ground is pin B2. We were using the battery ground just to test the solenoid & hold it wide open to make sure the solenoid wasn’t stuck closed.
Can I wire my wide band the same way on my 8th gen non si model?
A manual boost controller would work perfectly, I was running a 3port before and had a lot problems till I change it to a manual one 🙌🏻
On my 06, I am running a 4 port for my boost my gear. I followed Hondata’s suggestions and eventually got it working. It does require some dialing in for duty cycle and frequency. You really should have sorted that before the dyno day. Those are solid numbers. I would run a little softer spring so first and second will be more useful on the street, like a 5-6lb spring.
What was Hondata’s suggestions? All I saw on the Hondata software was an on/off switch for the boost control solenoid.
The thing to think about with that pin on the ECU is that it doesn't just affect the alternator at idle. A lot of the time manufactures will engage the clutch on the alternator under heavy load. This is done to reduce parasitic draw from the alternator when you're say accelerating onto the freeway (or doing pulls). So in theory using that pin may increase parasitic draw, not by much but something to think about.
on my boosted 8th gen im just running a 3 port from aem with their gauge with a built in boost controller. works fine, 4 ports are a pain on this chassis
I also have a boosted fg2 . These cars don’t like 4 port ebc’s , ecu doesn’t send enough power . Use a 3 port and you’ll have no issues.
What ecu is that obd 2 port hondata which one and fuel curve is the problem 310 plus pump and injectors 0:02
What was the boost at for those final numbers??
Use a 3 port with 5 lb spring in the wastegate tell your tuner to ease on frequency of controller... if it's too cold it will creep..
Hope everything works in the end for you
Im just running a amazon boost controller 9lbs street tune.
Got me stoked man. So cool
She’s come a long way…we ain’t done yet though 🤪
8th gen civics have a weak pwm ecu output to drive boost controllers. You need a cortex EBC to be able to run the 4port/3port reliably.
I run an electronic 4port hondata Mac valve and wired it to B2 exactly how it wants it. 0 issues.
Run the wire to the fuse box in front and then run ground to frame and the other in the pin connection 27:48
My buddy has a 4 door skyline 0:53
Been debating between turbo or supercharger for my FA5. Suspension and breaks have been done. Now it’s time for power. What to do?????
Turbooooo 🐌 🐌
@@DanielKellertisn’t more expensive? Cause I was thinking of doing the same. Either krafwerk or mercracing 1320 supercharger. What are your thoughts?
I wish PRL still had their kit selling but it was discontinued. I really want to do turbo but I would’ve never known to do what you did during your dyno session lol. I do prefer turbo though. Kraftwerks sc kit reasonable but also limited.
@henryflores8981 don't waste your money on crapwerks. My 8th gen is turbo also. Way more bang for your buck in the long run and can do it for a good cost If you do most of the work yourself, along with knowing people:)
My cousin had a fully buikt brian criwer block head all internals $35,000 worth but rbb intake and GT35R turbo 0:09
Go to the junkyard and get an ecu connector… the pins for boost solenoid should be a gold pin, the silver one is larger so it causes issues.. The bottom rows on the connector is gold, the top ones are silver
It’s not the ecu.. is there a way I can send you that info
I used the purge control solenoid pin & moved it from pin 3 to pin 2. They are on the same row so the pins are the exact same size. Pin 2 is the EGR output, which is what Hondata specifies they want as the boost control output so it should be working. I wish this was the case though, would be a much easier fix.
Some cars work and some don’t
I would recommend getting an electronic boost controller and getting rid of the Hondata boost control. That’s what I did I got the Turbosmart Eboost2 and it works flawlessly plus I can adjust it on the fly. I know a lot of guys run the Cortex EBC also would look at getting a 3 port boost control solenoid the 4 port is over kill. Those ecu pin are not a reliable source. Hope this helps.
The Hondata 4 port is an electronic boost control solenoid. What do you mean the ecu pins are not a reliable source? Those ecu pins are what control 99% of the sensor & solenoid outputs/signals on the car. They are like the most reliable source you can get 😅
Could always swap springs in the wastegate, at least to finish tuning
You can run hot from the fuse box then the others where 8:32
Very cool. Hi Matt!
I will tell him you say hi 🙃
i did 8600 on stock oil pump, 😅 N/a of course
Aem 310 is better e85 nad put 2 tunes and it will mak more you have to take your axle heads and put bigger inner shafts cause the holes amare diffrent they make 450hp all day 16:02
Yiu gotta add a fuse to your boost controller
It is fused. I’m using the factory purge valve 12v feed. Factory purge valve wiring has an in line fuse in the fuse box.
One wire should be connected to the ECU pin B2 (B16 S2000) using a 10A fuse.
@@carlosveliz3343 You don’t need a 10A fuse on a PWM ground side control wire. The fuse stays on the positive side of the circuit incase there is a short to ground prior to the sensor or load.
@@DanielKellert is the b2 for the purge valve? I thought the b2 was an empty spot
@@carlosveliz3343 I explained this in the video. The purge valve ground side control is pin B3. I removed pin B3 & moved it to the empty slot (Pin B2) which is the EGR output used for boost control. The ECU should be duty cycling that ground & it’s not.
Smart move not raising the rpm on a stock build 😂
Nice
You Need a sensor ground not a battery ground.
The PWM sensor ground is pin B2. We were using the battery ground just to test the solenoid & hold it wide open to make sure the solenoid wasn’t stuck closed.
Use 3port
Tou could hav bought 10 bottles of madditive for that and seen real gains 5:46
If wd40 works it works
800th view boiii
Sir, plz check your email💞💞