Hey Y'all! Grant here. We were thrilled to have been able to work with the Geese on this Hi Lo build. We were excited to hear about the release of the GR Corolla and essentially built new shock architecture for us to support the new platform (Inverted monotone shocks, upside down adjusters for ease of access due to the inaccessible strut towers, as well as optional inverted camber plates). A key success for us was building dampers that, in our opinion, offered much better ride quality and performance compared to stock GRC or even Morizo dampers (as seen on Speed Academy).
Also one thing that we wanted to clarify about the on-track performance is that we feel that some of the driver's feedback on track should be directed more towards the large difference in spring rate between our FastRoad (daily driver oriented) spring rates and valving vs MCS track oriented suspension. We do also manufacture track oriented suspension, called ClubSpec Pro Please don't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions about GRC suspension or any of the other cars we produce dampers for!
I'm very interested in your offerings. I loved my ohlins R&T for my 996, great balance of street comfort but could perform well on track and autoX. Seems your offerings do the same but at better cost AND ohlins still hasn't released anything for GR. I also love supporting local enthusiast run companies. So happy you were featured in the video to put you on my radar.@@AnnexSuspensionGroup
@@streamius your best bet is to email them on their website. I'm waiting for a set also since I'll be doing a Grand Touring drive to Alaska in the edge seasons between fall and winter next year. Looking forward to eating a lot of 💩Annex and 17" rims esp with the potholes on the Alaskan highway.
Jack this video is pure GOLD! The service this does for the entire community can not be overstated. I can see how much work and time and planning went in to this project. On behalf of the entire car enthusiast community, THANK YOU!
Only an hour long? What am I supposed to do with the other 23 hours today?? Thank you for continuing to dive so deep into these cars for us. I think for most, this is really the "attainable dream car", along with the CTR.
I’m only half way through this video and holy hell it’s amazing. I love how you guys cover the tuner track day enthusiast kinda stuff but also pay homage to the heritage of the brands with amazing videos like the last NA1 NSX video. Thank you for what you do for FREE.
50k+ is steep for that level of performance especially when the tuners don't have the diff logic figured out yet. Cant wait for the next video VS the Type R.
Yeah it’s completely unappealing. 50k will get you an Elise and a baller European vacation. Or a Jaguar F-Type. The budget interior is a dealbreaker. I guess it’s a do everything car but the reality is those are always disappointing.
Only if your poor. 47k is the new 35k. Evos were always 30-38k and nobody complained lol. These have heated seats and backup cams with software running everything and still same price as a 2000s rally car.
We started because we weren't satisfied with the affordable options on the market. Hopefully our customers agree with our philosophies and approach to suspension systems!
SYVECS in the UK sells an AWD controller that helps w/ the temp issue. According to the GRC Forums, the heat doesn't appear to come from the rear clutch pack but from the transfercase. Original testing of a replacement clutchpack housing and cooler showed no benefit. However inspection of the transfercase yielded some interesting information. Transfercase gear oil temps reach over 280 on some testing according to 555 engineering. They've developed an aftermarket housing for the transfercase that allows for an oil cooler. However, the large cost in this kit isn't the oil cooler and housing, but the SYVECS controller at $1,000 used to fool the ECM to not induce a limp mode. Based on sensor testing (eg using low temperature readings) the GRC exhibited FWD only limp mode regardless of drivetrain temperatures leading to suggest that the FWD Limp mode was based on calculated inputs (EG throttle duration, g forces, brake input, etc.) against an algorithm that would cause limp mode similar to what others have mentioned here.
Sounds like a class action lawsuit if people weren't so dumb, having Toyota sell them AWD cars only to deliver them cars capable of producing FWD if you ask me 😅
@@johnnygeorgopoulos4072 How so? It sounds like Toyota just decided to be overly conservative on the limp mode out of reliability, if anything. Granted, I don't drive on the track but I have not yet had limp mode engage.
Toyota completely sucks for giving us so few colors. The circuit edition is so unneccessary. It's $10,000 more just for blue, they're as bad as Porsche and their Paint to Sample program on the 911s, and formerly the 718/981s.
I like the suspension talk. Tune by frequency is a good approach. At the end of the day, it is THE fundamental aspect of the end design for spring settings. Looking at it this way designs out the differences in car weight, geometry, etc. You have to know all of that to work through the math to find frequency at any given spring rate, but once you have the geometry known, you can just aim for frequency, and that frequency will have a common feel across cars. So if 1.95Hz is the "sport tune" target, then 1.95Hz will feel basically the same on every car (assuming dampers and profile curves of them are proportionally equal relative to critical). The goal with this math based approach is consistency independent of car. Even as a consumer, if you have enough data, or a racing team, you can take a known value from one car and translate it to a different car and get nearly the same results. I know from my own tuning, I've been up at the 1.95Hz range, and it's a little stiff for my liking. You have a lot of spring and have to be more careful about damping. I'll happily trade away a bit of that spring rate for a more compliant ride, use long, long softer rate barrel springs, run more preload, and keep the total stroke. Oh, it was a happy day when Swift finally released their barrel springs. I had a setup entirely dependent on them existing. I was nearly at the point of getting some custom made. I'll aim for more low speed damping for the responsiveness and chassis control, keep high speed mild, and this also lets me run bigger swaybars with better control from the dampers. Why? Often you're trading a few things. One, if you go very stiff on spring, aka high frequency, even at zero preload (or I'll call "negative" with helper springs), you won't have much droop travel or in the case of helpers you have it but is slow due to a lot of rebound damping and low spring rate in that position. Helpers get your ride height down but doesn't really address the droop. You car is kind of a pogo stick over uneven surfaces. You have to go soft enough to get droop range. 1.95Hz is kind of up at that upper edge. Two, for comfort you're often selecting spring or damping. You can run a firm spring and mild compression damping or a soft spring and higher low speed compression damping. You go too far on either, and you're kind of bouncing the car off the road. Often, really high spring rates means very minimal compression damping and a ton of rebound damping. Chassis control is almost all rebound and almost no compression damping. If you go softer on spring, you can run more compression and less rebound and still have good control. I've been up at around 2Hz, and these days I like being way down around 1.6Hz which is near stock rates for a lot of modern vehicles. I've gone all spring and then back again to just soft spring and really good low speed damping, and have preferred the later. Is there a downside? Yeah. The one downside with lower frequency is reaction time. One thing you get with high frequency is fast correction. So if you loose tire contact and regain after a bump, the higher frequency does in turn mean higher reaction time. It looses and resets faster, based on that frequency. A softly sprung setup, even with higher low speed damping, is more lethargic. There's also going to be more limits on rough surfaces where that recovery time can compound a little bit. Side note about the rebound thing noted in the video. Too high of rebound is the car free-falling after bumps. You would lose traction after every bump you hit. You take a bump, then freel fall, take a bump, then free fall. That is too high of rebound. If the suspension is bouncy, you have too little damping. Busy, bouncy is too little damping. If you're bouncy, turn damping UP. It seems counter intuitive to what you think you want to do. As an inverse, if you have too high compression, it feels like your skipping a stone across water. The car will literally get launched off the road on each bump. You will bounce off the road, literally. It'll feel like your jumping the car off a thousand micro ramps, and losing traction. You lower compression damping and the tires stay on the ground again. Very, very, very few dampers outside of a motorsports setup will have something set this way. It might be hard to find any off the shelf product that can do this.
Just watched Flying Miata and Goodwin Racing videos about all the misunderstandings and misconceptions out there on what makes a good coilover suspension. Was eye-opening and thought-provoking. So was your in-depth technical explanation above. Again, thought-provoking. Thanks 👍.
@@kickithard There's a lot of preference in choices. You have to cover some basics, but after that, you can kind of do what you want, and each choice you take generates a different style of handling that may or may not suit your goals. For example, want more lift off oversteer? Add rear spring and cut rear sway. A reduced sway rear sway bar gives you more understeer which gives you more headroom for more spring to get back towards neutral. But the bigger rear spring, associated damper setting, and the relatively softer front spring gives you some good ol' fun in the form of lift off oversteer. How you figure any of this out without trial and error, I have no freakin' clue. Sometimes you just have to fiddle with stuff for years to kind of find the magic sauce. And because you're tuning the system to a desired driving style, it's kind of like cooking. Preference plays a big role. You can have 10 different setups that all work pretty ok, and they'll all do slightly different things. Right is relative. This not only includes things like springs and damping rates, it's also low speed and high speed compression and rebound, tire pressures, bushings/mounts in the suspension, steering, and drivetrain, and even chassis bracing. All this stuff tweaks things. And when you get into fwd, rwd, and awd, start adding diffs and different kinds of diffs, stuff changes around a lot too. The exact same car with two different diff setups may require a spring rate change to dial out some new understeer you just introduced on corner entry. The hobby's a lot of fun if you're willing to play around a bit. Get into your local autocross and rallycross clubs if you've got them, super cheap and gives you seat time. PIck a car, play with settings, and learn. If you've got more cash and don't mind wearing out parts faster or dealing with heat build up, track time gives you another layer of experience, but there's both more danger and cost, and most cars aren't set up to handle more than 10-15 minutes of hard driving without a lot of upgrades. As you play with different hobbies, each have their value and cost burden. It's why I point to autocross and rallycross mostly for anyone looking to get into racing, cars, and setups. It's cheap and you can literally do it with a bone stock $500 1992 Civic. Just pick something with a healthy breadth of aftermarket parts to play with.
@Xmvw2X Thanks for all the tips and insite. Experience is the best teacher. Listening to others that have been there, done that, can save you a lot of time, frustration, and $$$$.🙂👍
I don't want a GR Corolla, but I feel ready to buy a GR Corolla after watching this video because I'd know exactly what I'd be getting both the good and the bad.
If you do end up getting one, another bad point about them is engines blowing because of high load high gear scenarios ( lugging) , that and make sure you warm up the engine thoroughly before full throttle. I'm still happy with mine after a year of ownership. Super fun in snow. Still think that they are a bit over priced, but so is everything else these days.
This is one of the best videos you guys have ever put out. I don’t own a GRC but I thoroughly enjoyed every minute, and the detail you go into about the aftermarket side of the car is simply amazing. I would love to see a similar video done for the FL5 Type R!
Excellent work on this video. You won't make your money back but we all very much appreciate the time you spent on this. And if the GR corolla sticks around long term, this video will stay relevant for a very long time.
While my love for these cars has definitely been soured due to the warranty drama and of course the differential problems. I’d be lying If I said I am still not excited about this car. It really is a bummer how expensive these engines are because even in a couple years when prices come down, I could see myself getting one of these but I have PTSD from my GT 350. It’s a shame when you need the aftermarket to make this car what was sold to you in advertising. While I am glad Toyota built this car they made too many compromises in my opinion. Shout out to Annex suspension. I really like what they do and I’ve been seeing them on a lot more channels, Speed Academy introduced me to them originally.
Thanks for the props! I personally agree with you btw, it is a bit of a shame that this car needs so many serious upgrades to handle a typical lapping day. That being said, how many realistically make it out to the track? I think these cars are really fun to enjoy in everyday scenarios.
@@AnnexSuspensionGroup Of all the handful of fast cars I've owned (& driven hard) (some double the price of the GR) I would buy the GRC every time if I had a do over!!!
@Kraize92 the C8 is highly capable. The GR corrola is a dream car for people on a budget where they can't buy multiple new cars. No shame in that, its a sweet hot hatch.
@@seafooddiablo5686 I’m not on a budget I just love a pocket rocket and the GR Corolla checks all the boxes for me. This car gives me more smiles than my AMG or Lexus F car. Quick, toss-able and super fun. I know of several others who own high end cars plus a GR Corolla in the stable, it just offers a very unique experience that’s not common in today’s cars
Interesting video. My experience with modding my MK8 GTI has me closer to Mark’s take. You are better off spending the total cost of the package on a more expensive car that already does what you’re hoping for, and does it stock. Buy THAT car, and drive it, stock. Because when you mod a cheaper car, it never really gets there, never changes the character flaws the car has, or has compromises you wouldn’t be living with if you just spent the extra money on the right car to start with. The need to feed the car content mill has created an undertone to mod culture that I’m starting to despise. Watching James May recently roast Donut’s entire car collection was cathartic.
I rented a GR Corolla from Turo a couple weeks ago. I was VERY impressed with the car. I can say it's a solid & engaging drivers car out of the box, while still being very practical as a daily driver & commuter. I enjoyed it more than a 2017 WRX with the FA20. I enjoyed it more than an Ap2 S2000, and my brother who has a v6 accord coupe in stick says he's hooked on this car now. That little Toyota 3 cylinder GOES, and it definitely makes 300hp and it makes lots of torque from even 2k rpms! Very little turbo lag. It's not as fast as a modified focus st, but it's close, and I say it's actually more fun and competent because of the handling. I LOVE the 3 cylinder sound, I LOVE that it corners better than an 07 civic I used to drive. This car would do so well at an AutoX. If you're considering buying the GR Corolla, go drive one yesterday, but please don't pay more than 35k, unless you have the means. This is really a 30-35k car max, in my opinion, but if you absolutely want to buy new, and/or support the sale of enthusiast cars, this is one of the best out there. It's not for people who want to heavily chase power though. If you're truly okay staying under 350hp, it's a good car, if you're not, don't waste your money. Get a Golf or Focus RS, or other car that has more headroom with drivetrain strength.
If I had a redo, would pick my Circuit again over all the other fast cars I've owned. (993 - GT3 - BMW 335 - Fiesta ST - Acura TL) & I am totally fine with sub 350 hp.
@@jbrandon302 FYI - No logic what so ever in enthusiasm & FUN - Its a journey. GR is more of a Safari / Rally vehicle to me that kills it on the street at well...
What a great summary of the GR corolla. Thank you for this guide. I have a GR circuit and I've been nervous to work on it due to the fear of reliability ( it's my daily driver). This definitely gives me more confidence to work on it a bit. Thanks for all your effort! Limit +1 great work!
I can vouch for Annex’s FastRoad coilovers. For a coilover that’s as comfortable as it is on the street, it’s very capable on a track. For reference, they feel like a large step up from the KW V3s I had before. Every time I drive my car, I’m impressed.
Thank you for this! I feel like it is much needed in the community. Hope to see more of these technical modification reviews and comparisons in the future! FL5, Golf R, WRX next?!?!
Decent hot-hatch but makes me appreciate my Subarus more. I'm struggling to find areas the GRC beats my STI-swapped Forester other than MPG and handling. The STI AWD DCCD setup is superior when considering the overheating GRC transfer-case / clutch-pack. I can replace the engine myself in the garage under $3k or order a 750HP capable short-block for $5k . Open-source tuning is free (self-taught) and nets me 400whp with a pretty modest turbo (GT3076R) on pump gas and I added FlexFuel for under $100, though don't have E85 within 200 mile. 9" wireless Carplay/AA headunit that runs native Android which allows it to monitor and log data using a free app and a Tactrix OBD2 to USB cable - no ECUTek needed, though you can use them too for better tuning. I have suede-lined interior, quad heated seats, panoramic moonroof, Airlift suspension, loud BOV, remote start...Then my other Forester is lifted with 300hp and 11" of ground clearance. Yep, I'm sticking with my 20-year-old shit-boxes. Cheers!
@@GR_Papi honestly as a GRC owner it doesn’t reinvent the wheel or do anything absolutely crazy. WRX, Evo, and Golf R basically dominated the AWD market for so long that the only reason why the GRC seemed so great is because Evo is gone, STI went on ice and the Golf R has been around too long. It was the new shiny thing.
Incredible video. The technical talks with the people behind the aftermarket components is the best. I learned a ton about this car and tuning in general.
Glad you admitted that these aren’t your favorite. 😮 I feel it’s a good drivers car. I would enjoy having the GR Corolla for driving or going on shorter trips. 😊😊
This was extremely informative and as a GRC owner, I'm super grateful for the series. That said, I always get a sense that you don't really *like* the GRC, almost that you're stuck with it and doing the best with what you've got. Are you purposefully leaving emotion out of your videos or is the GRC just not your cup of tea?
Jack stated in one of the FL5 or comparison videos that he genuinely doesn't like the GRC, and he personally would've preferred an FL5 himself. He tried hard to like it, but it just has too many shortcomings, no matter how good it looks on paper.
@@citrusjuicebox If you take the "fun" element out of the GRC's character you are left with a car with potentially " too many shortcomings" as you put it. Fortunately, mine makes me smile on a daily basis :)
As a stock car i have quite a few problems with it and if it werent for the viewer base i wouldnt of bought this car. That said modified this is probably the best driving hot hatch i have experienced. I do genuinely really like the high car
This is the kind of stuff I love to see you guys do...the technical deep dive and pulling in experts in the industry to help dive further made for a fantastic watch - thank you!
First of all - love the technical content. Amazing SG production. As an automotive engineer working on powertrain and have done oil testing, thicker is not always better. Especially with newer engines. Increasing oil viscosity reduces efficiency and increases heat. You will have higher oil temps with a thicker oil. Consider running the specified 0w-20 on a stock tune, and perhaps increasing to a 0w-30 if tuned engine. Also, a 0w will actually be thicker than a 5w or 10w at temps >100C due to the higher viscosity index. Lubricants have become so advanced in the last two decades that the additive package is far more important for wear protection than the viscosity.
Spot on! I have been trying to convince people of the same but they’re stuck in the old way of thinking. Also the tolerances on this newer engines are so much tighter. Thank you for posting this as it’s important for owners to know otherwise if we all go down the wrong path we will see an inordinate number of issues and people will start, wrongly so, pointing fingers at Toyota reliability
We could probably have an hour long discussion about this but its not as straightforward as the oil grade and the VI. The VI is an old measurement tool that is largely irrelevant for track usage or extreme cases. As we are discussing high load at temps above 270F the oil viscosity charts would be logarithmic. And it changes per oil brand, which group and base stock of the oil. For the example in the video, if you take three group 5 brands like Motul, Amsoil and Redline and compare their 0w30 vs 5w30. The 5w30 maintains a higher viscosity at higher temperatures outside published ranges. And the reason that 30w is not the same is because the base stock of the oils is different between 0w30 and 5w30 giving them different performance. On track we don't care about low temperature performance we need high temp stability namely in engines without the proper cooling or pressure modulation. These engines in the price range don't even have baffled pans. We could go further at look at static oil temps and prentend there are no thermal hot spots inside the engine or problems with tolerances in rings, bearings etc. But in the real world any extra heat generated by a heavier oil would be offset risks generated by thinning oil, dropping pressures in those zones. And oil tech is different now but is so completely variable that assuming your dealer is putting in the correct oil is up for debate. Toyota dealers have been coming out saying they are subbing in 0w20 instead of 0w16 or 0w8 because they are harder to souce and more expensive. So my point was, 0w20 and below exist for best performance on street, reduces heat and pumping losses and the base stocks are compromised to meet those low temp flow rates at the expensive of high temp viscosity stability.
@@savagegeese in the world of automotive enthusiasm there is a lot of emphasis on viscosity. As oil additive packages have advanced significantly over the last 20 years they play a much larger role in wear protection than viscosity. It is the most important part of a lubricant. I’ve seen powertrain components pass and fail, simply by changing the additive package and keeping the base oil chemistry identical. I can also tell you I’ve seen certain powertrains have lower wear when using a thinner lubricant in durability testing. you know how much engineering goes into every little piece of a vehicle from talking to all of the wonderful people that you host on your show. Lubricating a powertrain component deals with a lot of advanced simulation and validation work. Consider that Toyota, one of the most reliable vehicle manufacturers on the planet is providing a warranty with track use for that engine oil. In fact, you could make argument that if you don’t use that oil on track, you could void your warranty. I’m not saying Toyota is perfect, but if they are standing behind something, we should listen. As for 0W 20 being specifically a fuel economy oil, that was probably the case 20 years ago when it was introduced into the market, but I don’t think so anymore.
The support from everything single person in this video was so impactful! I really learned a ton enjoyed, every second,... and still can't fucking decided if I should buy this damn car! Thanks Team!
I find it hard to believe that Toyota didn’t know about the Clutchpack issue. They stated that they heavily tested the car before releasing it and are currently doing the same for the 25’s. There’s no way they were driving it hard and not experiencing this issue. Sounds like they released it knowing it overheats.
The GRC stock feels like where I was always trying to get my 2006 GG wrx with fbo and konis w/king springs. Difference is it all works and I wouldn't be worried about blowing the GR like I was with the GG. In an alltrack now though since there are no other good econobox wagons out there.
Great video! I have been developing my GR Yaris for a couple of years so I recognize most of the details you have been adressing in this video. Next year I will rebuild it to a GRMN with OEM parts from Japan. Can’t wait to try it out on track this spring!
This was an absolutely fantastic video! Thank you to everyone who was involved with this. Really awesome research that will be super helpful to a lot of people.
Longer wheel studs are not required for all aftermarket wheels. There are numerous wheels that are compatible with extended shank conical lug nuts which provide proper thread engagement on the stock wheel studs. I have Apex EC-7 wheels on the stock studs with the extended shank lugs and they've been fine.
Great video guys. I know I have had some back and forth with you on the GRC forums, but there is a lot of great info to spend a few dollars and not go too crazy for good performance gains.
@@mikeydude750 Which one did you get? I am trying to decide between a 2025 Core v Premium. I don’t want the 2025 Premium Plus (Circuit edition renamed). They upgraded the suspension and made the performance package standard on all of them for 2025. Also increased the airflow in the front as well as having 295lbs of torque, increased from 273. Thing that’s BS is the dealerships are getting in all 8 speed autos in white first and I need a manual in Black. If I get the premium I might get the Metal, but Black is what i’m really leaning towards. Appreciate the reply and hope you and yours have a blessed one!
@ i got the Premium. The Circuit Edition looks nice and I really wanted the blue color but to be honest I live in an apartment and don't have a garage so I would have a hard time keeping the carbon roof looking nice. I live in California so the heated seats and steering wheel don't have too much use outside of maybe 2-3 months out of the year, but if you have snow i can imagine those would be good things to have. I think those still are gated with the Premium even if all trims have the LSDs now
I started and stopped at 91 and e50 tunes (limit+1) everything else is stock for my grc probably does need an oil cooler but other than that it’s pretty solid. It’s mostly a daily driver/ rare weekend canyon carving machine.
An amazing video, and a style we need so much more of. I totally understand how expensive and time consuming it may be, but this is an absolute must have before making up your mind on how you’re gonna spend $60,000. Especially if it’s on a shitbox Corolla 😂
Great video. I love this level of detail. I had been considering moving away from my 20 sti but after watching this, I might as well keep it. Especially after I figured out how to work around the Cobb greenspeed crap through open source.
Hands down best GRC video online anywhere. Answered so many questions I have for my car, and helped me make some decisions going forward. I will be looking at Annex's street suspension since ohlins is dragging their @ss, and waiting for ecutek to solve the rear diff issue before putting money into it any more. I see a more open intake (AEM or K&N with a dry filter) intercooler and oil cooler from limit+1, with ecutek tune in my near future thanks to your guys videos. Still not sure what exhaust as I don't like the drone or sounds of any I've heard yet. Any suggestions there? Stock catback, then aftermarket mid pipe and downpipe? Cheers!
I like the idea of stock axleback with aftermarket mid and downpipe. Not only the aftermarket catbacks creating drone but they all seem to weigh more than stock. I’m also noticing with the aftermarket catback options they are leaving lots of hollow areas in the rear which I imagine creates lots of drag and turbulence where moving air meets with the diffuser. This is enough to unsettle the aerodynamics to the rear of the car
This is exactly what we did on our shop car. Most aftermarket axle backs add weight and drone. So we use our downpipe with a high flow cat for the performance gains with our midpipe and the OEM axle back.
Literally just test drove one yesterday thinking of trading my VB WRX in and it's a really tempting trade especially with factory LSD's. Still on the fence because I love the WRX for winter but this was very entertaining!!
Next time, you should do a high/low Subaru WRX build. Subaru needs a REAL shot at showing what it can do, especially after Donut's haphazard approach that completely ruined their reputation.
We need this type of content for a golf r, wrx and type r. I love my subaru but im really tempted to go golf r, gti or a type r. I just want a fun car but also practical.
I've owned an mk7.5 golf R, and honestly I think the WRX/GRC belong together, and the other two are entirely different beasts in similar clothing. Numbers may be similar but their purpose is very different and don't feel similar. Say, every day living id say the golf R would be most comfortable, type r being the best balance assuming only street use, and GRC being the most "racing inspired". I think their interiors describe how they compare the most tbh
@@Hallowsaw you can’t go wrong with the MK7 or MK8 GTI, R or FL5 Type R. Really depends on your budget and what you’re after. I may be biased, as I had a quite extensively modified MK7 GTI and worked as an Audi tech, and now own an FL5. Feel free to ask any questions.
Hey Y'all! Grant here. We were thrilled to have been able to work with the Geese on this Hi Lo build. We were excited to hear about the release of the GR Corolla and essentially built new shock architecture for us to support the new platform (Inverted monotone shocks, upside down adjusters for ease of access due to the inaccessible strut towers, as well as optional inverted camber plates). A key success for us was building dampers that, in our opinion, offered much better ride quality and performance compared to stock GRC or even Morizo dampers (as seen on Speed Academy).
Also one thing that we wanted to clarify about the on-track performance is that we feel that some of the driver's feedback on track should be directed more towards the large difference in spring rate between our FastRoad (daily driver oriented) spring rates and valving vs MCS track oriented suspension. We do also manufacture track oriented suspension, called ClubSpec Pro
Please don't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions about GRC suspension or any of the other cars we produce dampers for!
35:18 nice one mate.
I'm very interested in your offerings. I loved my ohlins R&T for my 996, great balance of street comfort but could perform well on track and autoX. Seems your offerings do the same but at better cost AND ohlins still hasn't released anything for GR. I also love supporting local enthusiast run companies. So happy you were featured in the video to put you on my radar.@@AnnexSuspensionGroup
@@AnnexSuspensionGroup Count me in the street category. Can you give any updates on the longer travel kit you were developing?
@@streamius your best bet is to email them on their website. I'm waiting for a set also since I'll be doing a Grand Touring drive to Alaska in the edge seasons between fall and winter next year.
Looking forward to eating a lot of 💩Annex and 17" rims esp with the potholes on the Alaskan highway.
Please do more videos like this.
The aftermarket needs this level of technical expertise.
Diddo
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You guys have offered years of the most entertaining and informational automotive videos on any platform in history. All FOR FREE. Keep it up boys!! 👍
*so long as they dont sell out once they are the standing name, like DoughBrain media and Hoonigone
Praise be the Savagegeese team 🙌
Well said
Yeah they deserve 1mil plus subscribers
Agreed, these guys are savage.
Graham the tuner is a man who found the job he was meant to do. It's nice to see someone who is so skilled and passionate about their profession.
Jack this video is pure GOLD! The service this does for the entire community can not be overstated. I can see how much work and time and planning went in to this project. On behalf of the entire car enthusiast community, THANK YOU!
Only an hour long? What am I supposed to do with the other 23 hours today??
Thank you for continuing to dive so deep into these cars for us. I think for most, this is really the "attainable dream car", along with the CTR.
Walk the streets carrying a MAGA sign❤
@@iceeice1234 MAGA
Geez, maybe get a life for the remaining 23hrs of your day! JK of course 😃!
Go to work so you can afford the Corolla ~
@@syazwanchawan8779 I work from home.
I’m only half way through this video and holy hell it’s amazing.
I love how you guys cover the tuner track day enthusiast kinda stuff but also pay homage to the heritage of the brands with amazing videos like the last NA1 NSX video.
Thank you for what you do for FREE.
50k+ is steep for that level of performance especially when the tuners don't have the diff logic figured out yet. Cant wait for the next video VS the Type R.
Yeah it’s completely unappealing. 50k will get you an Elise and a baller European vacation. Or a Jaguar F-Type. The budget interior is a dealbreaker. I guess it’s a do everything car but the reality is those are always disappointing.
@@Shredcheddar drive one
@Shredcheddar owned a GRC for 2 months so far, and can confirm I've not had a single boring moment in this car as a daily commuter or grocery getter
Only if your poor. 47k is the new 35k. Evos were always 30-38k and nobody complained lol. These have heated seats and backup cams with software running everything and still same price as a 2000s rally car.
Been seeing Annex a lot lately. Hope they succeed. More competition is always good.
We started because we weren't satisfied with the affordable options on the market. Hopefully our customers agree with our philosophies and approach to suspension systems!
they're really good. 1st hand exp
SYVECS in the UK sells an AWD controller that helps w/ the temp issue. According to the GRC Forums, the heat doesn't appear to come from the rear clutch pack but from the transfercase. Original testing of a replacement clutchpack housing and cooler showed no benefit. However inspection of the transfercase yielded some interesting information. Transfercase gear oil temps reach over 280 on some testing according to 555 engineering. They've developed an aftermarket housing for the transfercase that allows for an oil cooler.
However, the large cost in this kit isn't the oil cooler and housing, but the SYVECS controller at $1,000 used to fool the ECM to not induce a limp mode.
Based on sensor testing (eg using low temperature readings) the GRC exhibited FWD only limp mode regardless of drivetrain temperatures leading to suggest that the FWD Limp mode was based on calculated inputs (EG throttle duration, g forces, brake input, etc.) against an algorithm that would cause limp mode similar to what others have mentioned here.
Sounds like a class action lawsuit if people weren't so dumb, having Toyota sell them AWD cars only to deliver them cars capable of producing FWD if you ask me 😅
@@johnnygeorgopoulos4072 How so? It sounds like Toyota just decided to be overly conservative on the limp mode out of reliability, if anything. Granted, I don't drive on the track but I have not yet had limp mode engage.
@@johnnygeorgopoulos4072the car is still AWD outside of “prolonged” track settings, so I don’t think there’s a valid lawsuit there…
@@johnnygeorgopoulos4072 the GRC ISNT A TRACK CAR LOL.
@@AutocrossAholecircuit edition not a track car? Seems misleading to me.
That green + bronze is so good
Toyota completely sucks for giving us so few colors. The circuit edition is so unneccessary. It's $10,000 more just for blue, they're as bad as Porsche and their Paint to Sample program on the 911s, and formerly the 718/981s.
Agreed. It reminds me of British racing green!
The m5 with matte green, bronze wheels and amber lights is chef’s kiss
Reminds me of the Hakone Edition 86.
No it looks old fashioned
This is a PSA to the SG team. You guys don't EVER have to apologize for making a long video. We love these long docu type videos.
Absolutely
I like the suspension talk.
Tune by frequency is a good approach. At the end of the day, it is THE fundamental aspect of the end design for spring settings. Looking at it this way designs out the differences in car weight, geometry, etc. You have to know all of that to work through the math to find frequency at any given spring rate, but once you have the geometry known, you can just aim for frequency, and that frequency will have a common feel across cars. So if 1.95Hz is the "sport tune" target, then 1.95Hz will feel basically the same on every car (assuming dampers and profile curves of them are proportionally equal relative to critical). The goal with this math based approach is consistency independent of car. Even as a consumer, if you have enough data, or a racing team, you can take a known value from one car and translate it to a different car and get nearly the same results.
I know from my own tuning, I've been up at the 1.95Hz range, and it's a little stiff for my liking. You have a lot of spring and have to be more careful about damping. I'll happily trade away a bit of that spring rate for a more compliant ride, use long, long softer rate barrel springs, run more preload, and keep the total stroke. Oh, it was a happy day when Swift finally released their barrel springs. I had a setup entirely dependent on them existing. I was nearly at the point of getting some custom made. I'll aim for more low speed damping for the responsiveness and chassis control, keep high speed mild, and this also lets me run bigger swaybars with better control from the dampers. Why? Often you're trading a few things. One, if you go very stiff on spring, aka high frequency, even at zero preload (or I'll call "negative" with helper springs), you won't have much droop travel or in the case of helpers you have it but is slow due to a lot of rebound damping and low spring rate in that position. Helpers get your ride height down but doesn't really address the droop. You car is kind of a pogo stick over uneven surfaces. You have to go soft enough to get droop range. 1.95Hz is kind of up at that upper edge. Two, for comfort you're often selecting spring or damping. You can run a firm spring and mild compression damping or a soft spring and higher low speed compression damping. You go too far on either, and you're kind of bouncing the car off the road. Often, really high spring rates means very minimal compression damping and a ton of rebound damping. Chassis control is almost all rebound and almost no compression damping. If you go softer on spring, you can run more compression and less rebound and still have good control. I've been up at around 2Hz, and these days I like being way down around 1.6Hz which is near stock rates for a lot of modern vehicles. I've gone all spring and then back again to just soft spring and really good low speed damping, and have preferred the later.
Is there a downside? Yeah.
The one downside with lower frequency is reaction time. One thing you get with high frequency is fast correction. So if you loose tire contact and regain after a bump, the higher frequency does in turn mean higher reaction time. It looses and resets faster, based on that frequency. A softly sprung setup, even with higher low speed damping, is more lethargic. There's also going to be more limits on rough surfaces where that recovery time can compound a little bit.
Side note about the rebound thing noted in the video. Too high of rebound is the car free-falling after bumps. You would lose traction after every bump you hit. You take a bump, then freel fall, take a bump, then free fall. That is too high of rebound. If the suspension is bouncy, you have too little damping. Busy, bouncy is too little damping. If you're bouncy, turn damping UP. It seems counter intuitive to what you think you want to do.
As an inverse, if you have too high compression, it feels like your skipping a stone across water. The car will literally get launched off the road on each bump. You will bounce off the road, literally. It'll feel like your jumping the car off a thousand micro ramps, and losing traction. You lower compression damping and the tires stay on the ground again. Very, very, very few dampers outside of a motorsports setup will have something set this way. It might be hard to find any off the shelf product that can do this.
Just watched Flying Miata and Goodwin Racing videos about all the misunderstandings and misconceptions out there on what makes a good coilover suspension. Was eye-opening and thought-provoking. So was your in-depth technical explanation above. Again, thought-provoking. Thanks 👍.
@@kickithard There's a lot of preference in choices. You have to cover some basics, but after that, you can kind of do what you want, and each choice you take generates a different style of handling that may or may not suit your goals. For example, want more lift off oversteer? Add rear spring and cut rear sway. A reduced sway rear sway bar gives you more understeer which gives you more headroom for more spring to get back towards neutral. But the bigger rear spring, associated damper setting, and the relatively softer front spring gives you some good ol' fun in the form of lift off oversteer. How you figure any of this out without trial and error, I have no freakin' clue. Sometimes you just have to fiddle with stuff for years to kind of find the magic sauce. And because you're tuning the system to a desired driving style, it's kind of like cooking. Preference plays a big role. You can have 10 different setups that all work pretty ok, and they'll all do slightly different things. Right is relative. This not only includes things like springs and damping rates, it's also low speed and high speed compression and rebound, tire pressures, bushings/mounts in the suspension, steering, and drivetrain, and even chassis bracing. All this stuff tweaks things. And when you get into fwd, rwd, and awd, start adding diffs and different kinds of diffs, stuff changes around a lot too. The exact same car with two different diff setups may require a spring rate change to dial out some new understeer you just introduced on corner entry.
The hobby's a lot of fun if you're willing to play around a bit. Get into your local autocross and rallycross clubs if you've got them, super cheap and gives you seat time. PIck a car, play with settings, and learn. If you've got more cash and don't mind wearing out parts faster or dealing with heat build up, track time gives you another layer of experience, but there's both more danger and cost, and most cars aren't set up to handle more than 10-15 minutes of hard driving without a lot of upgrades. As you play with different hobbies, each have their value and cost burden. It's why I point to autocross and rallycross mostly for anyone looking to get into racing, cars, and setups. It's cheap and you can literally do it with a bone stock $500 1992 Civic. Just pick something with a healthy breadth of aftermarket parts to play with.
@@Xmvw2Xmuch appreciated 👍🏾
@Xmvw2X Thanks for all the tips and insite. Experience is the best teacher. Listening to others that have been there, done that, can save you a lot of time, frustration, and $$$$.🙂👍
I don't want a GR Corolla, but I feel ready to buy a GR Corolla after watching this video because I'd know exactly what I'd be getting both the good and the bad.
If you do end up getting one, another bad point about them is engines blowing because of high load high gear scenarios ( lugging) , that and make sure you warm up the engine thoroughly before full throttle. I'm still happy with mine after a year of ownership. Super fun in snow. Still think that they are a bit over priced, but so is everything else these days.
@@scottcolpitts8521 So lugging the engines is causing premature ware? or is lugging just simply causing them to blow up?
This is one of the best videos you guys have ever put out. I don’t own a GRC but I thoroughly enjoyed every minute, and the detail you go into about the aftermarket side of the car is simply amazing. I would love to see a similar video done for the FL5 Type R!
Excellent work on this video. You won't make your money back but we all very much appreciate the time you spent on this.
And if the GR corolla sticks around long term, this video will stay relevant for a very long time.
While my love for these cars has definitely been soured due to the warranty drama and of course the differential problems. I’d be lying If I said I am still not excited about this car. It really is a bummer how expensive these engines are because even in a couple years when prices come down, I could see myself getting one of these but I have PTSD from my GT 350. It’s a shame when you need the aftermarket to make this car what was sold to you in advertising. While I am glad Toyota built this car they made too many compromises in my opinion. Shout out to Annex suspension. I really like what they do and I’ve been seeing them on a lot more channels, Speed Academy introduced me to them originally.
Thanks for the props! I personally agree with you btw, it is a bit of a shame that this car needs so many serious upgrades to handle a typical lapping day. That being said, how many realistically make it out to the track? I think these cars are really fun to enjoy in everyday scenarios.
@@AnnexSuspensionGroup exactly which is why I’ll probably end up with one someday 😅❤
@@AnnexSuspensionGroup That's why I bought the Circuit. Great daily - looks the part & absolutely slays it on B & C mountain roads👍
@@TerryManitoba Agreed. I'm actually hoping to get one for myself later this year.
@@AnnexSuspensionGroup
Of all the handful of fast cars I've owned (& driven hard) (some double the price of the GR) I would buy the GRC every time if I had a do over!!!
I respect Jack for overcoming his GM microchip and spending money on the Corolla over the Corvette.
Why? A Corvette is a true sports car and the GR isn't...
@@chrish8487 No it's not. It's a GT car. The C8 understeers like crazy out of the factory.
@Kraize92 Understeers like crazy? It has mild understeer. You clearly have never driven a C8 😂
@Kraize92 the C8 is highly capable. The GR corrola is a dream car for people on a budget where they can't buy multiple new cars. No shame in that, its a sweet hot hatch.
@@seafooddiablo5686 I’m not on a budget I just love a pocket rocket and the GR Corolla checks all the boxes for me. This car gives me more smiles than my AMG or Lexus F car. Quick, toss-able and super fun. I know of several others who own high end cars plus a GR Corolla in the stable, it just offers a very unique experience that’s not common in today’s cars
Interesting video. My experience with modding my MK8 GTI has me closer to Mark’s take. You are better off spending the total cost of the package on a more expensive car that already does what you’re hoping for, and does it stock. Buy THAT car, and drive it, stock. Because when you mod a cheaper car, it never really gets there, never changes the character flaws the car has, or has compromises you wouldn’t be living with if you just spent the extra money on the right car to start with.
The need to feed the car content mill has created an undertone to mod culture that I’m starting to despise. Watching James May recently roast Donut’s entire car collection was cathartic.
Standard.
Well said
I rented a GR Corolla from Turo a couple weeks ago.
I was VERY impressed with the car. I can say it's a solid & engaging drivers car out of the box, while still being very practical as a daily driver & commuter.
I enjoyed it more than a 2017 WRX with the FA20. I enjoyed it more than an Ap2 S2000, and my brother who has a v6 accord coupe in stick says he's hooked on this car now.
That little Toyota 3 cylinder GOES, and it definitely makes 300hp and it makes lots of torque from even 2k rpms! Very little turbo lag. It's not as fast as a modified focus st, but it's close, and I say it's actually more fun and competent because of the handling.
I LOVE the 3 cylinder sound, I LOVE that it corners better than an 07 civic I used to drive. This car would do so well at an AutoX. If you're considering buying the GR Corolla, go drive one yesterday, but please don't pay more than 35k, unless you have the means. This is really a 30-35k car max, in my opinion, but if you absolutely want to buy new, and/or support the sale of enthusiast cars, this is one of the best out there. It's not for people who want to heavily chase power though. If you're truly okay staying under 350hp, it's a good car, if you're not, don't waste your money. Get a Golf or Focus RS, or other car that has more headroom with drivetrain strength.
If I had a redo, would pick my Circuit again over all the other fast cars I've owned. (993 - GT3 - BMW 335 - Fiesta ST - Acura TL)
& I am totally fine with sub 350 hp.
@@TerryManitobaa souped up corolla over a 993 gt3 and a 335i? You can’t be serious lol
@@jbrandon302 WELL Son - I did put my money where my mouth is. Didn't I...
That clear NUF fer Ya...
@@TerryManitoba I respect your conviction sir, just don’t follow your logic 😂 glad you enjoy it though!
@@jbrandon302 FYI - No logic what so ever in enthusiasm & FUN - Its a journey.
GR is more of a Safari / Rally vehicle to me that kills it on the street at well...
The GR has its limitations, but I truly applaud Toyota for having the balls to make the GR Corolla!
What a great summary of the GR corolla. Thank you for this guide. I have a GR circuit and I've been nervous to work on it due to the fear of reliability ( it's my daily driver). This definitely gives me more confidence to work on it a bit. Thanks for all your effort! Limit +1 great work!
Love that your comparison videos don't rely solely on seat-of-the-pants figures. Great job on this series, y'all.
Very informative, thanks guys!
Graham is just the man. That’s simply all there is to it.
I can vouch for Annex’s FastRoad coilovers. For a coilover that’s as comfortable as it is on the street, it’s very capable on a track. For reference, they feel like a large step up from the KW V3s I had before. Every time I drive my car, I’m impressed.
Thank you for this! I feel like it is much needed in the community. Hope to see more of these technical modification reviews and comparisons in the future! FL5, Golf R, WRX next?!?!
Decent hot-hatch but makes me appreciate my Subarus more. I'm struggling to find areas the GRC beats my STI-swapped Forester other than MPG and handling. The STI AWD DCCD setup is superior when considering the overheating GRC transfer-case / clutch-pack. I can replace the engine myself in the garage under $3k or order a 750HP capable short-block for $5k . Open-source tuning is free (self-taught) and nets me 400whp with a pretty modest turbo (GT3076R) on pump gas and I added FlexFuel for under $100, though don't have E85 within 200 mile. 9" wireless Carplay/AA headunit that runs native Android which allows it to monitor and log data using a free app and a Tactrix OBD2 to USB cable - no ECUTek needed, though you can use them too for better tuning. I have suede-lined interior, quad heated seats, panoramic moonroof, Airlift suspension, loud BOV, remote start...Then my other Forester is lifted with 300hp and 11" of ground clearance. Yep, I'm sticking with my 20-year-old shit-boxes. Cheers!
It doesn’t I own a 07 sti and a grc and my sti still is top dawg but I maybe a little bit bias cause it’s one of my dream cars.
@@GR_Papi honestly as a GRC owner it doesn’t reinvent the wheel or do anything absolutely crazy. WRX, Evo, and Golf R basically dominated the AWD market for so long that the only reason why the GRC seemed so great is because Evo is gone, STI went on ice and the Golf R has been around too long. It was the new shiny thing.
@@MaddNomad1015 definitely agree
One of the best car channels out there for enthusiasts. Thanks for. making such technical and high quality content.
We are truly blessed to have this content. Love it! Thank you savagegeese team.
Emailed Annex for 370z options!! Sounds legit for us old folk that wanna enjoy corners without being punched in the face!!
Incredible video. The technical talks with the people behind the aftermarket components is the best. I learned a ton about this car and tuning in general.
Bought a new 2024 Circuit Edition because I wanna be just like you guys when I never grow up also!! Great information!
Glad you admitted that these aren’t your favorite. 😮
I feel it’s a good drivers car. I would enjoy having the GR Corolla for driving or going on shorter trips. 😊😊
That green color is bad@$$!!! 😍😍😍⚡️⚡️⚡️
Color is amazing
Wrappy wrap. But super nice
Agreed. It reminds me of British racing green!
Old green was awesome. New green is even better.
What a comprehensive video. Expect nothing less from you guys. 👍🏽
This was extremely informative and as a GRC owner, I'm super grateful for the series. That said, I always get a sense that you don't really *like* the GRC, almost that you're stuck with it and doing the best with what you've got. Are you purposefully leaving emotion out of your videos or is the GRC just not your cup of tea?
Jack stated in one of the FL5 or comparison videos that he genuinely doesn't like the GRC, and he personally would've preferred an FL5 himself. He tried hard to like it, but it just has too many shortcomings, no matter how good it looks on paper.
@@citrusjuicebox If you take the "fun" element out of the GRC's character you are left with a car with potentially " too many shortcomings" as you put it. Fortunately, mine makes me smile on a daily basis :)
@@eurojulien those are Jack's words, not mine lol. I'm personally happy to put up with plenty of shortcomings, especially for fun!
As a stock car i have quite a few problems with it and if it werent for the viewer base i wouldnt of bought this car. That said modified this is probably the best driving hot hatch i have experienced. I do genuinely really like the high car
It's hard being a Honda fanboy and having to like the competition 😕
This is the kind of stuff I love to see you guys do...the technical deep dive and pulling in experts in the industry to help dive further made for a fantastic watch - thank you!
First of all - love the technical content. Amazing SG production.
As an automotive engineer working on powertrain and have done oil testing, thicker is not always better. Especially with newer engines. Increasing oil viscosity reduces efficiency and increases heat. You will have higher oil temps with a thicker oil. Consider running the specified 0w-20 on a stock tune, and perhaps increasing to a 0w-30 if tuned engine. Also, a 0w will actually be thicker than a 5w or 10w at temps >100C due to the higher viscosity index. Lubricants have become so advanced in the last two decades that the additive package is far more important for wear protection than the viscosity.
Spot on! I have been trying to convince people of the same but they’re stuck in the old way of thinking. Also the tolerances on this newer engines are so much tighter. Thank you for posting this as it’s important for owners to know otherwise if we all go down the wrong path we will see an inordinate number of issues and people will start, wrongly so, pointing fingers at Toyota reliability
Do you have any reading i can do on the viscosity index at temps? The data we pulled showed 5w30 being thicker than 0w30 at both 100 and 40.
We could probably have an hour long discussion about this but its not as straightforward as the oil grade and the VI. The VI is an old measurement tool that is largely irrelevant for track usage or extreme cases. As we are discussing high load at temps above 270F the oil viscosity charts would be logarithmic. And it changes per oil brand, which group and base stock of the oil.
For the example in the video, if you take three group 5 brands like Motul, Amsoil and Redline and compare their 0w30 vs 5w30. The 5w30 maintains a higher viscosity at higher temperatures outside published ranges. And the reason that 30w is not the same is because the base stock of the oils is different between 0w30 and 5w30 giving them different performance. On track we don't care about low temperature performance we need high temp stability namely in engines without the proper cooling or pressure modulation. These engines in the price range don't even have baffled pans.
We could go further at look at static oil temps and prentend there are no thermal hot spots inside the engine or problems with tolerances in rings, bearings etc. But in the real world any extra heat generated by a heavier oil would be offset risks generated by thinning oil, dropping pressures in those zones. And oil tech is different now but is so completely variable that assuming your dealer is putting in the correct oil is up for debate. Toyota dealers have been coming out saying they are subbing in 0w20 instead of 0w16 or 0w8 because they are harder to souce and more expensive.
So my point was, 0w20 and below exist for best performance on street, reduces heat and pumping losses and the base stocks are compromised to meet those low temp flow rates at the expensive of high temp viscosity stability.
@savagegeese does it take one to be an engineer to come to that conclusion
@@savagegeese in the world of automotive enthusiasm there is a lot of emphasis on viscosity. As oil additive packages have advanced significantly over the last 20 years they play a much larger role in wear protection than viscosity. It is the most important part of a lubricant. I’ve seen powertrain components pass and fail, simply by changing the additive package and keeping the base oil chemistry identical. I can also tell you I’ve seen certain powertrains have lower wear when using a thinner lubricant in durability testing. you know how much engineering goes into every little piece of a vehicle from talking to all of the wonderful people that you host on your show. Lubricating a powertrain component deals with a lot of advanced simulation and validation work. Consider that Toyota, one of the most reliable vehicle manufacturers on the planet is providing a warranty with track use for that engine oil. In fact, you could make argument that if you don’t use that oil on track, you could void your warranty. I’m not saying Toyota is perfect, but if they are standing behind something, we should listen. As for 0W 20 being specifically a fuel economy oil, that was probably the case 20 years ago when it was introduced into the market, but I don’t think so anymore.
Can’t wait to get my 2025 GRC!
I was waiting for this video to drop, every second is packed full of so much useful information!
this channel always makes me grateful to be a huge car nerd
Not many channels going in this deep with information and testing. Awesome content!
Magnificent video.
Thank you so much... loads of info.
Well done.
This is the video that I've been waiting for! I really love how informative and high quality this video is. Best GRC content on youtube😅
It was nice meeting you at BFR last week. I am the one next to you in the black Miata. See you around at either URW or track days.
SavageGeese doin High/Low. Cool.
The support from everything single person in this video was so impactful! I really learned a ton enjoyed, every second,... and still can't fucking decided if I should buy this damn car! Thanks Team!
Yesterday I closed a 2M deal at work, Wednesday I got married… this video is the highlight of my week.
Congrats man
2M USD?
😂😂 Congrats man!
wait until you get a b58 car
Funny... im shopping for an f22 m240i right now... or a gr corolla @@box6982
I find it hard to believe that Toyota didn’t know about the Clutchpack issue.
They stated that they heavily tested the car before releasing it and are currently doing the same for the 25’s. There’s no way they were driving it hard and not experiencing this issue. Sounds like they released it knowing it overheats.
Absolutely they did. They just bet that 99% will never track it so will never find out.
It was actually delayed because of some of the issue it had. Was originally just fwd, then they put the AWD and engine from the Yaris in.
@@mofayerSo they basically said screw it is what you're saying. Mm
@@MaddNomad1015shoulda kept it in testing longer
Who's saying they didn't know about it? That's nonsensical, anyway, because they *implemented* it.
Oh hell yea, that AWE exhaust looks so sick!! My buddy has one, sounds sick, too. Great job on the video guys - love the depth.
I’m a gry owner here in Australia . I enjoyed your video on the grc . I’ve never knew about the rear diff pack temp censer . 👍🇦🇺
The GRC stock feels like where I was always trying to get my 2006 GG wrx with fbo and konis w/king springs. Difference is it all works and I wouldn't be worried about blowing the GR like I was with the GG. In an alltrack now though since there are no other good econobox wagons out there.
How do you like it so far? I am looking at a 2025 now and I think i’m going to get it. Just trying to decide which one I want.
Great video! I have been developing my GR Yaris for a couple of years so I recognize most of the details you have been adressing in this video. Next year I will rebuild it to a GRMN with OEM parts from Japan. Can’t wait to try it out on track this spring!
This was an absolutely fantastic video! Thank you to everyone who was involved with this. Really awesome research that will be super helpful to a lot of people.
Thanks for the in-depth and well edited content.
I love videos like these and especially with the GRC !!! Much love
Amazing content as always, this is the kind of technical and accessible knowledge UA-cam should promote.
Longer wheel studs are not required for all aftermarket wheels. There are numerous wheels that are compatible with extended shank conical lug nuts which provide proper thread engagement on the stock wheel studs.
I have Apex EC-7 wheels on the stock studs with the extended shank lugs and they've been fine.
Great information guys. I’m amazed how expensive modern engines have become!
What an amazing video, all grc owners should definitely give this a watch
Great video guys. I know I have had some back and forth with you on the GRC forums, but there is a lot of great info to spend a few dollars and not go too crazy for good performance gains.
I've had my GRC for the past 10 months now, probably won't ever mod it but it sure is a blast up in the mountains
Awesome! I am looking at a 2025 now.
@@SaltStorm007 Yep, it's coming on close to a year and I've got 10k miles on it. Still puts a smile on my face every time I drive it.
@@mikeydude750 Which one did you get? I am trying to decide between a 2025 Core v Premium. I don’t want the 2025 Premium Plus (Circuit edition renamed). They upgraded the suspension and made the performance package standard on all of them for 2025. Also increased the airflow in the front as well as having 295lbs of torque, increased from 273. Thing that’s BS is the dealerships are getting in all 8 speed autos in white first and I need a manual in Black. If I get the premium I might get the Metal, but Black is what i’m really leaning towards. Appreciate the reply and hope you and yours have a blessed one!
@ i got the Premium. The Circuit Edition looks nice and I really wanted the blue color but to be honest I live in an apartment and don't have a garage so I would have a hard time keeping the carbon roof looking nice.
I live in California so the heated seats and steering wheel don't have too much use outside of maybe 2-3 months out of the year, but if you have snow i can imagine those would be good things to have. I think those still are gated with the Premium even if all trims have the LSDs now
Thanks for all that you guys do, truly amazing and honest content.
I started and stopped at 91 and e50 tunes (limit+1) everything else is stock for my grc probably does need an oil cooler but other than that it’s pretty solid. It’s mostly a daily driver/ rare weekend canyon carving machine.
Great to hear from people with experience and knowledge. Atta-boy jack!
love that your guy got this in green, looks great!
Top notch quality work once again, looking forward to the next episode!
An amazing video, and a style we need so much more of. I totally understand how expensive and time consuming it may be, but this is an absolute must have before making up your mind on how you’re gonna spend $60,000. Especially if it’s on a shitbox Corolla 😂
Great video. I love this level of detail. I had been considering moving away from my 20 sti but after watching this, I might as well keep it. Especially after I figured out how to work around the Cobb greenspeed crap through open source.
I love my GRC! But I will look into the Annex suspension bc it really is a harsh ride on imperfect road conditions.
Thanks for bringing back the brief Phantasy Star piano riff from Alan Fowler in your outro.
Hands down best GRC video online anywhere. Answered so many questions I have for my car, and helped me make some decisions going forward. I will be looking at Annex's street suspension since ohlins is dragging their @ss, and waiting for ecutek to solve the rear diff issue before putting money into it any more. I see a more open intake (AEM or K&N with a dry filter) intercooler and oil cooler from limit+1, with ecutek tune in my near future thanks to your guys videos. Still not sure what exhaust as I don't like the drone or sounds of any I've heard yet. Any suggestions there? Stock catback, then aftermarket mid pipe and downpipe? Cheers!
I like the idea of stock axleback with aftermarket mid and downpipe. Not only the aftermarket catbacks creating drone but they all seem to weigh more than stock. I’m also noticing with the aftermarket catback options they are leaving lots of hollow areas in the rear which I imagine creates lots of drag and turbulence where moving air meets with the diffuser. This is enough to unsettle the aerodynamics to the rear of the car
I just had the 1st Ecutek Flash on my GRC - just that made a huge difference.
This is exactly what we did on our shop car. Most aftermarket axle backs add weight and drone. So we use our downpipe with a high flow cat for the performance gains with our midpipe and the OEM axle back.
@@LIMITplus1 great minds think alike :D
Would love a video like this for the Fl5
Great video! This is my favorite one thus far, very informative . Thank you for this amazing content 🙏🏾
This guy is just that good of a driver that he is making the low package look good
MOOOOAR GR CONTENT!
GOOD god thats sick looking hatchback the green one
This video could use a Re-Titling "Hi vs Low GR Corolla Build". Or "What CAN you do vs What SHOULD you do". You guys are the best!
Maybe they were worried of being told they’re copying Donut (I think this is different enough)
This channel is not for kids...
@@batialexis9339 True, but I would always want them to get more views if possible. Especially if the title is not clickbait.
Literally just test drove one yesterday thinking of trading my VB WRX in and it's a really tempting trade especially with factory LSD's. Still on the fence because I love the WRX for winter but this was very entertaining!!
💜 This type of content!!
Keep it up! 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Britt mentioned a shifter setup he really liked but its not listed in the car breakdowns in the description. Could you link to that upgrade? Cheers!
Yeah same here, I'm sure you'll have lots of questions on this video but I want that shifter now.....lol
I called Limit +1 - They said it was a CAE Shifting Technology SS
All I wanna do with mine to start is an exhaust and a better shifter, really like to know more as well
Great video as usual!
i like how he's listening to eurobeat during the track shots
Oh I thought this was a factory gr, was excited for a second
Great video. Planning to keep my GRC pretty stock so I don’t ruin it, but you’ve convinced me that a suspension change is in my future. 😊
Next time, you should do a high/low Subaru WRX build. Subaru needs a REAL shot at showing what it can do, especially after Donut's haphazard approach that completely ruined their reputation.
The new 22+ VB WRX already makes more horsepower than the GRC stock vs. stock. Modded, it would kill a equally modded GRC. Not even close.
Great work guys !
Totally saw you guys in the green one the other day!
F'n aye. Killer job Jack. Great vid. 👍🏻👏🍻
The world needs more content like this. What are the alignment specs on the hi/green car?
You specified a SHIFTER UPGRADE on the low car.
It is NOT in the build list.
Which shifter did you use???
THX
We need this type of content for a golf r, wrx and type r.
I love my subaru but im really tempted to go golf r, gti or a type r. I just want a fun car but also practical.
I've owned an mk7.5 golf R, and honestly I think the WRX/GRC belong together, and the other two are entirely different beasts in similar clothing. Numbers may be similar but their purpose is very different and don't feel similar. Say, every day living id say the golf R would be most comfortable, type r being the best balance assuming only street use, and GRC being the most "racing inspired". I think their interiors describe how they compare the most tbh
@@Hallowsaw you can’t go wrong with the MK7 or MK8 GTI, R or FL5 Type R. Really depends on your budget and what you’re after.
I may be biased, as I had a quite extensively modified MK7 GTI and worked as an Audi tech, and now own an FL5.
Feel free to ask any questions.
If you go FWD get an Elantra N
I will say that color looks fantastic on a GR.
Hour long video? 😍 thank you. Happy Friday.
That is one fancy Corolla.
I CAME FOR THE RED FOLDING CHAIR!
And that's all.
Incredibly well done video.