CHAdeMO V2H - Relay Hack and Testing - 3D Print
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- Working on my Electric Car Vehicle to Home power backup system, I "hack" my high voltage relay, wire it to a switch, and test everything out. 300mpg.org/202...
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The concept behind this project is that electric cars have big batteries in the 300 to 400VDC range. That's a range supported by many solar inverters. So, why not run electric car power through a solar inverter and have emergency power available!?!?
That's the concept at least. In these videos, I'm working through if it can work and be practical on an affordable level for a DIYer.
Main blog post on this is at: 300mpg.org/v2g/
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So beautiful Gunious , thank you shearing sir. Wow 3D print to Engennering is from where I'm at you are God level.
I wish I could work for Gunious people like you.
Thank you Shearing sir so amazing.
So glad you keep making these videos!
This is comical but in an awesome way! You've truly outdone yourself sir!
The whole pre-charging to prevent arcing within the contactors is pretty interesting
Love all you do. Your videos always inform and inspire me with new ideas for my own projects. Thank you and Happy Holidays!
Can't wait to see this all up running
Nice work but I'm lost between the relay hack with manual switch in the car vs the SS1 switch on the blue box. You say the relay hack takes care of the SS1 switch on the blue box. Why not use the SS1 switch instead of hacking the relay?
Nice music!
Ben makes great music
So do I have this correct? The 4-way connector that you disconnect goes to the EV Contactor Control Relay; by disconnecting it you are disabling control of that relay by the EV; you are then replacing that internal control with your jumper switch; Start-Stop 1 is redundant; Start-Stop 2 grounds one side of the contactor control relay solenoid; then the jumper switch connects +12v (from ignition) to the other side of the solenoid; that then activates the control relay and closes the main contactors making battery voltage available on the Chademo pins.
I think you could avoid the need for ignition to be on if you supplied the 12v via Start-Stop 1.
Secondly, if I’m right that you leave the 4-way connector unplugged, doesn’t that mean that you have disabled the internal control needed during normal Chademo charging?
I would have thought that you could achieve the same result just by switching SS1 to 12v, then switching SS2 to Ground. Has anyone tried that?
Why do you need the ignition on for this? Surely that is inconvenient if you want to leave the car in V2L mode for any length of time. The ignition is not on during normal Chademo charging, tho’ the car obviously uses 12v battery power for display, comms etc.
Hi Benjamin, I follow your projects since a while now. Thanks for sharing! With the Chademo hack I´m now pretty confident that I finally can bring a Nissan e-NV200 to the grid. My plan is to build an electric tractor from a wrecked e-NV200 and since it standing at home most of the time, I want the battery to work as buffer for my PV. Was there any progress whith the inverter you bought for that purpose? I stumbled over the Solax inverter, these might be able to accept the voltage from the Chademo port. Please let me know if I can be helpful in any way (many years of professional experience as electronic engineer). Best regards, Manuel
Any progress? Did it work? How many watts could you get through the PV port? I like it,
Hi @BenjaminNelson, You show disconnecting the 4-pin connector to the contactor relay, and you never seem to reconnect it, which I don't get.
Are you just controlling pins 2 and 10 to close the contactor between the battery and the power pins?
If so, why not do that by controlling pins 2 and 10 as inputs to the Chademo connector. No need to do anything inside the car. I think you just need 12v on Pin 2 and Gnd on Pin 10.
Am I missing something?
so you did all this so you could pull energy from the car to your house. what more do you need to solarize/hybridize the car?
Why did you install this switch inside the car when it is possible (as I understood from another blog) to get voltage on the Chademo connector using analog control signals?
This is a question about a different subject. I noticed your work on an Enginer in a Prius. I'd like to remove mine. I'm in St. Paul, MN Could you direct me or do you do this type of work?
Hi Mike,
The Enginer kit in a Prius belonged to a friend of mine, who no longer has that car. I had a Prius with a Hymotion L5 system in it. That's relatively easy to remove.
You might want to contact somebody locally who works on electric cars. The Minnesota club should probably be able to get you in contact with someone who could give you a hand. www.shift2electric.com/evowners
Maybe a simple precharge method is an incandescent light bulb across each of the pos & neg contactors at the H6 inverter input. When car output DC is enabled, the bulbs will glow, half the voltage across each. When the bulbs go out, turn on contactors.
The cold start resistance of a 100-watt incandescent lightbulb is about 9.5 Ohms. Three light bulbs in series would be about 28.5 ohms and 360V. The big resistor from the Nissan Leaf read as 30 Ohms when I checked it with my multimeter.
It seems to me that (3) 100 watt light bulbs in series would be just about right for a pre-charge circuit.
Of course, the bulbs would draw pretty high current for a moment, but then the resistance would quickly change to draw a lower current as the bulb heats and the voltage drops. If anything, the worst that would happen is that I blow a couple of light bulbs.
The Pre charge is to prevent the inrush current to the capacitors. It is needed because the battery can deliver huge instantaneous currents.
Loving it. M
This is awesome great ideas doing basically what ford is promising with the lightning. One question though are you basically going to ac couple that big solar city grid tie inverter (atleast I believe it is what that was). Can any of these inverters work without an additional battery. Like a standalone grid? I am editing this comment because I saw your other video the battery input says 400 to 550 something so are you not going to use that side but instead ur trying to fake car battery to be solar system?
Yes, my plan is to attempt to use the PV input with the battery. The SolarCity H6 inverter CAN run without a battery in place on the battery input.
@@BenjaminNelsonX interesting it would be even cooler if somehow you could make run with battery side at lower voltage 300 and still make power with solar then car and solar could dc couple back and forth
@@BenjaminNelsonX that’s wild
If you take batteries and connect them in series until the resulting voltage is 360 continuous volts and choose a weak amp such as 40 or 55 amps, and you install a fast charging plug on the current resulting from connecting the batteries together at 360 DC, of course, is the charging process possible as the car battery’s volt is 333 volts DC
Very cool, but very dangerous ;)
I love what you are doing, and thanks for making these, but PLEASE use a grommet to protect those cables going into the Sun City unit. Thanks.
Absolutely. That was literally just a test of plugging it in turning it on and back off. No strain on the cable at all. Very smooth edge on the metal there as well.
Would this approach work for any chademo port, say on a gen 1 nissan leaf ? Or would it need a later gen with V2G capability?
Do Gen1 Leafs (Leaves?) not support V2G?
@@szalaigabor1714 well I’m in the UK and no the first gen leaf made in Japan does not do v2g, the gen2 made in the UK (from late 2013) does support v2g.
I don’t know about other markets, this hack does not look like a true v2g as there doesn’t seem to be any comms to the bms etc, just the contractors are open up to the battery.
@@PlanetCypher_ In this case, it's just using the analog signals of the CHAdeMO, plus a manual control of a relay in the Mitsubishi iMiEV, so it wouldn't work with other cars like the Leaf.
As I continue to work on this project, I hope to do a version using the full CHAdeMO protocol with CAN communications. That WOULD let any other CHAdeMO car, such as a Nissan Leaf work with it.
First, I have to make sure the inverter won't explode.
Hello Benjamin, what's the year model of your Mitsubishi i-MiEV? I am planning to buy a car like this. Could you please advise asap?
It’s a 2012 Mitsubishi iMiEV.
@@BenjaminNelsonX Thank you so much. Do you think we can do the same thing with the 2017 or 2020 Mitsubishi iMiEV?
I would imagine so. These cars didn't change much from one model year to another.
@@BenjaminNelsonX I mean the relay hacking of the ChadeMo to get power out of the car battery?
I wish I could charge our electric cars straight off of solar panels, DC to DC be at through a regulator but still instead of going DC solar panel to AC inverter, AC inverter to DC converter.
Would probably still need a transformer, to get the DC from the panels into the correct form that the charge controller on the car wants…
I wouldn’t mind having a system that has some batteries and some sort of transformer but I wish that the electricity during a sunny day and a low state of charge on your vehicle could go more or less straight into the battery. 2015 85d owner
Does anyone know if this will work with the Chademo on a 2015 Kia Soul EV?
Does the car get any trouble codes set playing like this?
No. None.
But I also haven't drawn any power out through the port yet. So far I have only just tested for voltage to show that power is available.
For me is most interested if I can Hack CHAdeMO from Nissan Leaf ,for to power my Off-Grid Home. I need only to have power in the CHAdeMO socket Nisan Leaf 40Kw .Some one can help to for to this?
Check out Electroheads. The rise of the German electric car. 🚌 bus. 😎 cool
Please shear 3 d print file so I can print future my 3 d printer or at library please
www.thingiverse.com/thing:121581
5:49: Whoa! Stop, Stay stopped. You are showing us a 30 ohm resistor that as near as I can tell is used to pre-charge the capacitors in the onboard electronics in a 360 volt. Should the relay in parallel with the 30 ohm resistor fail to close, it will be dissipating gigantic power, as in V squared over R. (360 x 360)/ 30= 4,320 Watts. That is NOT a 4,320 Watt resistor in that plastic carrier. If you can wait a little longer, and pre-charge with a 5,600 ohm resistor, then the max power there is 23 Watts. Now you have all day to figure out that the relay failed. Let me know how much capacitance is built into this circuit. Even 100,000uF would seem to be a lot. OK, 5,600 ohms to pre-charge 100,000uF will take too long. Find out what capacitance needs to be pre-charged by measuring the voltage rise time and determine if you can live with a pre-charge resistor that won't go @#$#%^&% if the relay fails to close.
What's next?
I need to do some work testing the solar inverter I run this too. Need to make sure it won't blow up.