Thank you for this teardown it's interesting to see how they work. We recently bought one of the cables from EV Cables. I work for an internet service provider and we've recently begun using an EV to power our street cabinets during power cuts instead of using a generator like we previously did. The Ionic 5 was the car of choice and we managed to get one on lease to try out. V2L works wonderfully for our application. One thing that I intend to do though is swap the push-button switch on the EV Cables adapter for a key switch, to avoid any passers-by switching the unit off when unattended, this teardown helped show the innards to see what I would be working with when I do this modification
Some 30 years ago 3 pin UK plugs were available with a matching socket moulded on rubber. They were for a fly-type extention lead and had an element of water resistance by the socket having a rubber shroud that wrapped over the plug.
Hi Julian, perhaps the Vanguard 28 Alpha-UK style plug might be appropriate... bit expensive for normal use but might be interesting to show as a novelty. Never wired one up for myself though.
ha ha. maybe they were thinking of heat dissipation but not cost. but i agree. no need for all the "DO:DAH'S" on the circuit board to run 3 LED's. could have saved a few penny's there. (someone's getting fired) : )
That's not a cheap socket adapter with resistor in it. Must be a expensive resistor. Thanks for sharing. Now we can all make our own version, at low cost 😉
Search for 'rear entry 1363 plug', there are several available, you should find an orange one which we used where i worked. But really, just leave the cover open, those cable fins don't provide much weather protection so let the water drain away.
Hi Julian. I am using my Hyundai I5 to charge my house when the electricity price is high. In your video you wonder why the 95 degree "fuse" is there. I experienced when overdemanding the car, so more than 3,6kW, the car shuts down the supply. So I am thinking this thermal is the protection for a load exeeding 3,6kW. After reinitating the V2L everything works fine again.
Thanks for the detailed iintroduction to the v2l adapter. I hoped that there is an FI inside the housing. Because I have to live with 2 male plugs in the connection cable. Thanks to our good german electricians. Good that there is a switch. But what happen if children unlock the cable. Will power stop?? If not it will be more dangerous.
I assume there’s some sort of circuit breaker inside the car that can handle short circuits between live/neutral and live/earth? Wonder if you can get a replacement socket module with a commando socket on it. Ooh imagine a future where you can have an EV that tows a caravan, with the caravan having extra batteries in it, solar and an extra type 2 socket to hook the electrics up.
Hopefully the extra socket would be in the back, cos having a extension lead coming from the nose like the ZS all the way to the back wouldn't be ideal lol
Great video!…thanks for the detailed investigation…very DIY in a world where so many companies are heading for proprietary products/protocols.. good talking point with other ‘nerds’ , helps in my line of work - have recommended your channel many times.
Just add to the comment (much lower down) about the power available. Not checked the output on mine, but @ 250 Volts 13 Amps equates to 3250Watts. 3600W @ 250V is nearly 14.4A. UK mains can be up to 253V, btw. The nominal 230V would provide the nominal 3.1kW. However, on the charging side, the maximum power for the charger is 2.2kW. This is to protect the square pin plug from overheating when charging for prolonged periods. Running at 3kW for short periods (boiling a kettle, for example) is perfectly OK. How long the plug, with the pins scrunched up (due to the lead and cover interference) could avoid overheating, might make that thermal cutout (presumably not a ‘fuse’) a necessary addition! I’ve not taken more than 2kW from mine, so far… Not all 13A square pin plugs are made in the UK these days, so care does need to be taken! 3.6kW might be the marketing hype, methinks? My kitchen oven draws 2.7kW. I won’t be cooking the Christmas dinner from the Ioniq (even though the oven is thermostatted).
So is the inverter function present in the vehicle? It has to convert the DC to AC somehow, and apparently it isn't happening on this device. So if the AC is already available at the vehicle, they are simply charging extra to give access to what is already provided.
From what I understand it's only included on the Premium trim models. We've recently leased one, it didn't come with the adapter, but we bought the above mentioned EVCables one and it worked
So the inverter functionality is within the vehicle.... So the "cable" is just marshaling.... No power electronics....and how much do they chose to charge for allowing you to access this function of the hardware you already paid for?
Yes they do seem to be taking the piss with the price. Now we know there is nothing in it I would be more confident buying a Chinese copy when/should they arrive.
Not sure if you are aware, but I think there is some high frequency noise being picked up by your mic. My guess is around 16kHz. Not sure if you are interested in filtering it out, but I have noticed it in some other videos of yours as well. It also only happens during certain parts of the video, so I dont know what would cause it.
I am wondering, would this adapter also work with an ID5, since the ID5 is supporting bidirectional loading, so it would be interesting to see if the adapter would work directly when pluggin it into a ID5
I'm assuming there are adequate safety precautions in place to ensure cut off if any faulty equipment plugged or if excessive current is pulled for extended lengths of time on the VTL? My point being, what if a component is fried and it affects charging and/or ability to drive vehicle, would the warranty cover repairs? I'm guessing that maintenance staff would not be impressed if you told them you caused damage plugging in household electrical appliances, that being said, I'm sure the sales reps and management would be quite happy if it happened out of warranty, as we all know several figure bills for pennies worth of parts.
This is way cool. Teslas can't do this! Such a useful feature especially if you live somewhere that extended power outages are common. A 60KWH vehicle battery can run basic household appliances for days and days.
Given that UK household ring mains are nominally rated at 32A (at the breaker anyway) and have nothing but (usually pairs of) 3 - pin sockets like this the actual rating of the socket is a bit vague. It has to be capable of at least 13A since that is the largest fuse that can be (officially) put in the plug but there is nothing specifically to say the socket can only deliver 13A. Sometimes you will find extension leads with a 5A plug and labelling on the socket end to say max 5A load (because of the cabling used usually). Anyway, what I am saying is that if the socket can deliver more than 13A (which it clearly can in this case) then it makes good sense to label it as such - not that any proper plug could draw more than 13A due to the fuse. All of which suggest a commando version is probably called for but would be less convenient for most users.
Very interesting.... we are now stepping into the future and at last working to save the planet ! in a future video could you make an attempt to have a couple of SOLAR PANNEL come into the mix, meaning without human intervention (cable change and option check on the car touch screen), the car would be recharged when the sun is shining and the house would use the car battery and not the external Grid when enough electricity is stored in the car's battery. If that is not possible right now (in your mind) please us know. if one would need a clever kit that you could build, to do that, i'd be happy to be a client of yours...and your local reseller!!!😃 (the idea is to have a set 8 to 12 solar pannels installed on my roof)
I‘m wondering how the temperature protection is supposed to work. According to the schematics, the car can not measure the state of the fuse as long as the switch is pressed. So I would assume from the schematics that the temperature fuse would only inhibit the „switch on“ function, not stop the vehicle from providing power. Also if the switch is also used to turn off the power, that would not be possible in case the temperature fuse opened up.
Well... if you have electric car in remote location I can hardly imagine someone draw power from it as it can end in stopping in another remote location... not far from first one...
Wouldn't it be cheaper just to get a 12v inverter, like the ones that have been available for years. Seems to me like thay are just re-inventing things so they can rip people off for more money.
@@mikeselectricstuff Just wondering because I know I have a 2kw inverter in my car and I have seen boaters use 3.5kw inverters on 12v systems, plus as far as I know even EV's have normal 12v batteries, not sure if they have normal 12v sockets though.
What a joke £300 ,sounds like they don’t want to sell any and don’t want anyone to enjoy they ev. A little greed goes a long way , maybe the wrong way.
i agree strongly about the thermal resistor/fuse switching at 80 or max at 85. i mean 95 is already starting to bole water. but then again i have replace ones rated 115 degrees for things for inside the house before to in the past.
Thank you for this teardown it's interesting to see how they work. We recently bought one of the cables from EV Cables. I work for an internet service provider and we've recently begun using an EV to power our street cabinets during power cuts instead of using a generator like we previously did. The Ionic 5 was the car of choice and we managed to get one on lease to try out. V2L works wonderfully for our application. One thing that I intend to do though is swap the push-button switch on the EV Cables adapter for a key switch, to avoid any passers-by switching the unit off when unattended, this teardown helped show the innards to see what I would be working with when I do this modification
Brilliant - thanks Robert. I'm pleased it was helpful.
@@JulianIlett Mr. Julian, I have a question about V2L. Can you help me? I need your help. How can I contact you?
I await every time your cheerful greeting of, "Good ( Morning/Afternoon) all." Hello just didn't cut it for me. Otherwise, I enjoyed the video!
I wonder if they use different resistor values to encode voltage and/or current limit ( e.g. 110V for USA).
id say so.. it makes sense..
Some 30 years ago 3 pin UK plugs were available with a matching socket moulded on rubber. They were for a fly-type extention lead and had an element of water resistance by the socket having a rubber shroud that wrapped over the plug.
Hi Julian, perhaps the Vanguard 28 Alpha-UK style plug might be appropriate... bit expensive for normal use but might be interesting to show as a novelty. Never wired one up for myself though.
thank you,, never heard of one of those sockets. must check one out. ; )
If ever there was a bad time to use LEDs and a good time to use old fashioned Neon bulbs, that light module was it.
Did you see Fran Blanche's video on new neon bulbs and how quickly they fade? They're not made the way they used to be...
@@NiHaoMike64 no, I stopped watching her channel.
ha ha. maybe they were thinking of heat dissipation but not cost. but i agree. no need for all the "DO:DAH'S" on the circuit board to run 3 LED's. could have saved a few penny's there. (someone's getting fired) : )
That's not a cheap socket adapter with resistor in it. Must be a expensive resistor. Thanks for sharing. Now we can all make our own version, at low cost 😉
Search for 'rear entry 1363 plug', there are several available, you should find an orange one which we used where i worked.
But really, just leave the cover open, those cable fins don't provide much weather protection so let the water drain away.
Very interesting, thanks Julian! 💜
very interesting stuff, pity about the UK plug problem, but im sure that will get fixed soon. THANK YOU JULIAN. COOL TEAR DOWN...
I was wondering before but now I know, Thanks again
Hi Julian. I am using my Hyundai I5 to charge my house when the electricity price is high. In your video you wonder why the 95 degree "fuse" is there. I experienced when overdemanding the car, so more than 3,6kW, the car shuts down the supply. So I am thinking this thermal is the protection for a load exeeding 3,6kW. After reinitating the V2L everything works fine again.
Thanks for the detailed iintroduction to the v2l adapter. I hoped that there is an FI inside the housing. Because I have to live with 2 male plugs in the connection cable. Thanks to our good german electricians. Good that there is a switch. But what happen if children unlock the cable. Will power stop?? If not it will be more dangerous.
I assume there’s some sort of circuit breaker inside the car that can handle short circuits between live/neutral and live/earth?
Wonder if you can get a replacement socket module with a commando socket on it.
Ooh imagine a future where you can have an EV that tows a caravan, with the caravan having extra batteries in it, solar and an extra type 2 socket to hook the electrics up.
Like this setup ?
ua-cam.com/video/UQrQ_hUtfgs/v-deo.html
Hopefully the extra socket would be in the back, cos having a extension lead coming from the nose like the ZS all the way to the back wouldn't be ideal lol
thats the future for sure mate. i can defo see that come in to play.. : )
Great video!…thanks for the detailed investigation…very DIY in a world where so many companies are heading for proprietary products/protocols.. good talking point with other ‘nerds’ , helps in my line of work - have recommended your channel many times.
Julian you can get a "3pin to Shuko" adapter...which would also allow the full 16 amp's to be drawn.👍
Just add to the comment (much lower down) about the power available. Not checked the output on mine, but @ 250 Volts 13 Amps equates to 3250Watts. 3600W @ 250V is nearly 14.4A. UK mains can be up to 253V, btw. The nominal 230V would provide the nominal 3.1kW.
However, on the charging side, the maximum power for the charger is 2.2kW. This is to protect the square pin plug from overheating when charging for prolonged periods. Running at 3kW for short periods (boiling a kettle, for example) is perfectly OK.
How long the plug, with the pins scrunched up (due to the lead and cover interference) could avoid overheating, might make that thermal cutout (presumably not a ‘fuse’) a necessary addition! I’ve not taken more than 2kW from mine, so far…
Not all 13A square pin plugs are made in the UK these days, so care does need to be taken! 3.6kW might be the marketing hype, methinks?
My kitchen oven draws 2.7kW. I won’t be cooking the Christmas dinner from the Ioniq (even though the oven is thermostatted).
Which production year did e Niros and Kona EVs get V2L?
(I'm planning to buy one but want this feature)
So is the inverter function present in the vehicle? It has to convert the DC to AC somehow, and apparently it isn't happening on this device. So if the AC is already available at the vehicle, they are simply charging extra to give access to what is already provided.
From what I understand it's only included on the Premium trim models. We've recently leased one, it didn't come with the adapter, but we bought the above mentioned EVCables one and it worked
I think you understand it well.. I kept wondering if scanning the QR codes on the parts would add any info. Cheers.
So the inverter functionality is within the vehicle.... So the "cable" is just marshaling.... No power electronics....and how much do they chose to charge for allowing you to access this function of the hardware you already paid for?
Thank you for this. I can't find your MG V2L stripdown
Good evening, so you say that for the Hyundai it would be a resistance of only 62 Ω???
Thank you and good night !!
Would it work on a hyundai kona 2018-2022 model, kia soul ev 2020 or newer and kia niro ev 2018-2022?
What fun, an interesting video, i don't have any intention of getting an EV at this time but knowledge is Power in this case 240V 16 amps🙂
So... $15 of parts, £350 sale price? Typical.
Yes they do seem to be taking the piss with the price.
Now we know there is nothing in it I would be more confident buying a Chinese copy when/should they arrive.
How can it be 16A when 13A is the max for a UK plug ?
thanks for that very interesting, do these cars have bidirectional inverters as I am interested to see if we could adapt other EV's to have V2L
Not sure if you are aware, but I think there is some high frequency noise being picked up by your mic. My guess is around 16kHz. Not sure if you are interested in filtering it out, but I have noticed it in some other videos of yours as well. It also only happens during certain parts of the video, so I dont know what would cause it.
I am wondering, would this adapter also work with an ID5, since the ID5 is supporting bidirectional loading, so it would be interesting to see if the adapter would work directly when pluggin it into a ID5
hi, Can I use it for VW ID4?
It seems like the UK plug was an afterthought.
How many ohms does a Neta V car use?
Hi is it compatible with kia niro plus PHEV?
If you had a modern moulded plug with strain relief it would probably not close.
Many thanks
Wonder if it's possible on my leaf , that would be so useful
It's so simple! I wonder if the circuit is the same for the North American version of this? More specifically the resistor value?
It’s in the going electric forums - about 65-72 ohms should work
I'm assuming there are adequate safety precautions in place to ensure cut off if any faulty equipment plugged or if excessive current is pulled for extended lengths of time on the VTL?
My point being, what if a component is fried and it affects charging and/or ability to drive vehicle, would the warranty cover repairs? I'm guessing that maintenance staff would not be impressed if you told them you caused damage plugging in household electrical appliances, that being said, I'm sure the sales reps and management would be quite happy if it happened out of warranty, as we all know several figure bills for pennies worth of parts.
Why single phase only?
Put industrial 3 phase on one end, and use adapters.
I have a 2019 Kia Niro EV. Do you think it could be adapted or is there too much stuff inside the car which would not work that way?
late replay, but the old Niro doesn;t have V2L.
Very informative👍. Would anyone know if the hyundai kona has V2L compatability
This is way cool. Teslas can't do this! Such a useful feature especially if you live somewhere that extended power outages are common. A 60KWH vehicle battery can run basic household appliances for days and days.
Technically they can, but Elon would rather sell you a Powerwall 2
I'm now wondering how long before we start seeing electricity theft from parked cars
This is good to know, Thanks
change in cable size might = fuse ! guessing ????
Is it possible to use this cable on a KIA Niro EV or hybrid?
Niro ev 3 trim and above, but not the hybrid
Great 👌
#TheProjectLab
the resistor is to limit the power out
Nope. Hy- young- die is the correct way to say it.
Nope. See the new ads on the telly.
Would this work on the mg ZS ev ?
No - the Kia/Hyundai unit has a 62 ohm resistor - the MG needs 470 ohm.
You mounted the thermal fuse the wrong way round.
yay
It's important not to connect your PP directly to your PE
Lol 13A socket labelled 16A... I'd suspect that item doesn't comply to any standards
The vehicle is not properly grounded ether so it’s never going to be standard
Given that UK household ring mains are nominally rated at 32A (at the breaker anyway) and have nothing but (usually pairs of) 3 - pin sockets like this the actual rating of the socket is a bit vague. It has to be capable of at least 13A since that is the largest fuse that can be (officially) put in the plug but there is nothing specifically to say the socket can only deliver 13A. Sometimes you will find extension leads with a 5A plug and labelling on the socket end to say max 5A load (because of the cabling used usually).
Anyway, what I am saying is that if the socket can deliver more than 13A (which it clearly can in this case) then it makes good sense to label it as such - not that any proper plug could draw more than 13A due to the fuse. All of which suggest a commando version is probably called for but would be less convenient for most users.
I wonder if different resistor values would give different voltage outputs?
Not different voltage but different power afaik :) someone’s managed to get 5kW out of this
do you have a link for that?
@@eltereding shit I can't find it anymore - but is was a US site and they used a higher resistance - it might a power selecting resistors
I've been trying to get one of those for months! 😭
Very interesting.... we are now stepping into the future and at last working to save the planet !
in a future video could you make an attempt to have a couple of SOLAR PANNEL come into the mix,
meaning without human intervention (cable change and option check on the car touch screen), the car would be recharged when the sun is shining and the house would use the car battery
and not the external Grid when enough electricity is stored in the car's battery.
If that is not possible right now (in your mind) please us know.
if one would need a clever kit that you could build, to do that, i'd be happy to be a client of yours...and your local reseller!!!😃
(the idea is to have a set 8 to 12 solar pannels installed on my roof)
I‘m wondering how the temperature protection is supposed to work. According to the schematics, the car can not measure the state of the fuse as long as the switch is pressed. So I would assume from the schematics that the temperature fuse would only inhibit the „switch on“ function, not stop the vehicle from providing power. Also if the switch is also used to turn off the power, that would not be possible in case the temperature fuse opened up.
It's a latching switch, not a push button.
The car would be looking for that PP-CP link. If it didn't exist (in the case of the 95 C temperature switch opening at 95 C), it disables output.
@@grrrams Ah, yes. That makes sense. Thank you!
Why doesn't UA-cam push me your videos anymore? stupid system. Thanks for the video
So basically I can make my own, even for North American plug for Kia…
£350 - crikey!
Alone
My Mazda MX-30 has a plug socket under the dashboard, but it's maximum power rating is 150W, which seems really low.
That's probably a module shared with an ICE car that runs off the 12 volt system. You can't really get 3 kW off that.
Sounds a likely reason, but wouldn't that mean they'd have to embed an inverter somewhere?
@@MrGeekGamer Inverters have gotten so cheap and boring that you can just hide a small module somewhere.
It's actually pronounced Hunday like Sunday
only in the US.
Well... if you have electric car in remote location I can hardly imagine someone draw power from it as it can end in stopping in another remote location... not far from first one...
Wouldn't it be cheaper just to get a 12v inverter, like the ones that have been available for years. Seems to me like thay are just re-inventing things so they can rip people off for more money.
The current for 3kw at 12v would be ridiculous,250 amps, and the car's dc-dc converter would be unlikely to be able to support it
@@mikeselectricstuff Just wondering because I know I have a 2kw inverter in my car and I have seen boaters use 3.5kw inverters on 12v systems, plus as far as I know even EV's have normal 12v batteries, not sure if they have normal 12v sockets though.
What a joke £300 ,sounds like they don’t want to sell any and don’t want anyone to enjoy they ev. A little greed goes a long way , maybe the wrong way.
Б
the only people that would whine about the way the plug goes in there are Karen's . There's nothing wrong with that at all .
I find the A.C cable to be too thin, also it merits to be in silicone insulation, the thermal switch is clearly too high 80 C will be a lot better
i agree strongly about the thermal resistor/fuse switching at 80 or max at 85. i mean 95 is already starting to bole water. but then again i have replace ones rated 115 degrees for things for inside the house before to in the past.