I LOVE THE WAY YOU EXPLAIN AUTOMOTIVE REPAIRS . I HAVE BEEN WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS FOR THE PAST 4 HOURS . THANK YOU SO MUCH I WILL CONTINUE TO WATCH YOUR VIDEOS.
As a diy guy with some experience working on cars, I want to say your knowledge and the way you take time to explain things are very informative. I'm slowly educating myself on obd2 systems and your information is very helpful. I really like that you show a step by step process. Keep up the great work.
I have a question .......Can you explain what happens when you pump the brake pedal to test the 02 sensors? I saw you do it on one of your older videos. Just thought that you might see my question on this recent video as you reviewed the comments. Your skill is self evident and your gift in explaining what you are doing and why is such a wonderful contribution to all of us DIYers. Thank you for that! God Bless you.
@ronniestevens9268 My Pleasure! when You pump the brake pedal while the engine is idling you create a lean condition on a vehicle that has a vacuum operatedbrake booster, because in the booster there is vacuum on one side and atmospheric pressure on the other, so pumping the brake pedal allows air to enter the vacuum chamber and create a lean condition, since the vacuum side is attached to the intake manifold, when this happens 02 sensors that are good react to the mixture change very fast, indicating good 02 sensors!!
Smart guy, I love watching competency finding faults. You guys that are young and want to have fun working on electronic, get the training and put effort into learning from good tekkies.
Very nice explanation,I did work for Honda dealer in Texas (just water sprite to detect vacuum leaks)if you have the insufficient code after a new EGR is a EGR port down thev intake collapse of slosh you have to clean it and install a bronce pipe to avoid the problem again (it a O.E kit to do that problem)hope this information helps some body
I started watching your videos 2days ago and I am overwhelmed by your explicit teachings. Thank you my AUTO TEACHER. Please I want to ask, are you Dale or Dele?
Nice work! Wish this video was available a few years ago. I had this issue with a 2000 Civic Si and I sold it because I didn't have this knowledge to resolve it after several local shops were not able to fix it. I kept throwing IAC valves at it and the issue would come back repeatedly after the motor was HOT.
I have a 2000 Civic and have the P0505 code, cleaned the throttle flap and IAC vavle and I still have the P0505 DTC and now a P0132 O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 DTC too. Did you ever fix it?
Sorry @michaelkelly3501 as my previous post implies I sold the car (unfixed). If your anywhere near upstate NY, look up Eric O at South Main Auto. If I still had the car I would have drove or trailed the car several hours to see if he would work on it. He puts out amazing diagnostic videos here on youtube.
Another problem with older Hondas with iac valves. There is an additional valve that lets in air to aid in fast idle with a cold engine. It is a wax pellet valve that reacts to coolant temp. It is open when cold to allow additional air into the intake to increase idle speed and as the coolant heats up the valve closes and shuts off the air. If the coolant level is low the valve won't heat up and the idle won't come down. When the engine warms up the computer sees a high idle with a closed throttle and it goes into fuel cut mode. That causes the surging. Often the only problem is low coolant level.
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repairclean all the ground bolts and wiring harnesses with isopropyl alcohol and blow them dry with an air compressor and reinstall the next day. Including computer ground bolts and harnesses inside the car. It takes a few hours, at the end of the day - to be certain all the alcohol has dried. You didn't say the model year on the car, or your geographic location. So they salt the roads?
As the top comment posted. This was a known issue back in the day with a bad Fast Idle Thermal (FIT) valve. Air in the cooling system would give you the same surging idle. Air can enter due to a leak somewhere in the cooling system. I had a leak at the inlet hose to the FIT valve in the past, so that was where the coolant would escape and air would take it's place. The location of the valve was the highest location of any coolant passage, so the leak was slow to appear under normal conditions. I noticed the coolant a bit low and pressure tested to find the leak.
There is always a reason, the "Amazon" sensors/parts are a small fraction of the cost, compared to OEM!! Especially HONDA or ACURA. Always go oem sensors or electronics, for Honda.,...Always. HONDA OEM,...always solves the issue.
EGR sticking open would cause rough idle, stall and fuel trim correction towards negative in a MAP system. On these it's usually low coolant, vacuum leak or I've also seen where someone messes with cable adjustments. Lots of good comments in here also btw.
I believe you answered my question that I wanted asked . With the unmetered air going in the EGR , would it cause the MAF reading go into negative values ?
First time viewer, 30+ years in the automotive trade. I gave you a thumbs up and a sub, so now I will be looking for you to impress me, lol. I would not have put the aftermarket EGR on this car, especially considering what you said. If you are going to tell the customer that they will probably need an OEM valve in the future because the new one has a slight leak, I would just leave the old one on which also has a small leak. But I would tell the customer that they are going to need a new OEM valve now or in the very near future if they want there vehicle running right. Just my opinion, other than that it was a good video. You two seem to have a good synergy together, keep it up!
I am having difficulty with my 2000 civic thanks to your videos I have learned so much one thing I need a scanner a good scanner I have code read scanners but I need a live scanner and a smoke machine without those there’s no way I can fix it thank you for your knowledge
I have a 2000 Civic and have the P0505 code, cleaned the throttle flap and IAC vavle and I still have the P0505 DTC and now a P0132 O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 DTC too. Did you fix yours?
Nice job guys. I have always used starter fluid to find vacuum leaks quickly. This is the first time I have seen a smoke machine used to find leaks. But I do not work on cars as a professional. I have rebuilt several engines in my time though. You have to use starter fluid while the engine is cold of course and use it sparingly and only spray at intake components. Stay away wires, connectors, or near the exhaust. Starter fluid near heat and/or an electrical short/spark can be dangerous.
good vid man!!!! most EGR valves i come across when smoke testing normally have a small leak & does not effect fuel trims ...i personally hate installing aftermarket parts but unfortunately have to most of the time ,but have come across certain cars & problems that only factory parts will work & i make sure that we only use factory parts on those cars
Nice job 15:00 all egr valves laeks,all tps shaft leaks, pcv os a vaccum leak . Those are considered as measured leaks that are ignored o pre program on the cuastom tables of the software for fuel trims control
Not certain of this car, but I have seen egr system issues [specifically a modulator] show up as poor milage/long term fuel trim staying high. The loss of control [a broken diaphragm] was a vacuum leak, but since egr readback was proved by temperature sensor it threw a low "flow" code. Worked I guess, but the language choices used sometimes lead us down paths that eat up time. Egr's are odd ducks: active for moderate acceleration, but off under something like 1500 rpm. So I wondered about the surging: a return to normal [intermittantly] but most the time system is compensating using IAC to keep it running? Again, fuel trim is often a good clue. The funny thing about egr codes [if that is what set this trouble up in the first place] is that replacing egr may well be the last thing to do - you said "aftermarket" regarding egr and that right there is a red flag. Your smoke machine got it done - that can be a great timesaver.
@@rambleon2838 fuel trim corrects that and mileage goes south. In some ways, the O2 sensor referees most intake side malfunctions because it has the final word... which is why fixing certain exhaust leaks is important
I use the feul trims data on scan tool when i suspect vaccum leak , high trims at idle drops as u increase throttle . and perhaps stuck open evap purge solnoid
Other than air and oil filters, I always use OEM parts. I learned my lesson with using reman NAPA rear brake calipers for my Accord. 2 years later I had replaced both calipers a total of 4 times because of junk NAPA reman parts. Sure they're under warranty, but when your brake calipers sieze unannounced and it's -5 degrees in the middle of February, you'll be sorry you went the cheap route.
Good video. I have one question. I got a car (manual) that shifts gears hard when the car is cold, and whenever the car runs for a bit then the gear starts to shift more easier...What do you think it can be? Oil change? Intermittent issue. Thank you very much man!
the more you smoke cars the more you will gain knowledge and most egrs will leak smoke on those test, but i think its so small it never causes a lean issue or fuel trim issue from my experience
That is kinda what I was thinking of looking at o2 signals. ALD peace gtsy I just subbed this brother technician he is very analytical I like his diagnostic approach like yours ❤😂
@nandanalal5072 Good question! Because the idle speed was stuck high I already knew that the problem was a vacuum leak or a bad idle air control valve since this is a MAP engine ( Speed Density Engine ), so the steps I took in this video were experience based!
Not sure if it was mentioned, but I would've monitored the scoping of the idle valve at operating temperature to see the valve open and close. I'm assuming there would be some distortion in the signal when it's commanded to close
Did replacing the EGR valve fixed the p0505? Im having the same issue but with a 2.3L. Already replaced the IAC valve with oem honda and codes came back after driving around… i also have no EGR valve codes which is weird
Totally subbed brother good job i am a tech in Alaska at a import shop cant wait to see more diagnostics videos or repair replace vids keep up the good work brother bringing honor to the trade ❤😂
@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair I have a 2002 Honda CRV, and it's the same issue! I have tried 3 idle air control valves from AutoZone. I am glad that he mentioned he has tried 2 after-market parts and still failed. Where can I find an OEM idle air control valve for a 2002 Honda CRV 4WD EX. My next approach is getting a used one from the junkyard and hoping it works.
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair Replaced it with a junkyard part. Cleaned it and installed it. Idles much better when it is cold but once it warms up, the same issue with the surging. How would I test the wiring? I can't find anywhere that tells me how much V each wire should have. Can the IAC be tested with a multimeter before being installed? Would have loved to see a side-by-side comparison between the specs of the OEM and the faulty part like resistance or voltage between pins.
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair Also, the CEL is on. It surges, but When I clear the code, it idles perfectly. Any reason why is does that? assuming its faulty, shouldn't it continue to surge.
There was a recall on the EGR valve for these engines years ago. Is the "old" one a replaced EGR valve under the recall or is it the original defective design?
Sorry I misunderstood application another way to see if it has an external vacuum leak is too close off Throttle body opening and see if engine will run
I had this same issue on my saturn wagon. 1.9 twin cam. Replaced everything ya'll did, and more, smoked it with no leaks, even replaced plastic valve cover with the aluminum one. Ac switch, ign sw., map, maf, intake temp, coolant temp sensor, throttle position, throttle body with relearn, brake booster and check valve, and vacuum line to intake, checked intake gasket with water, brake clean, oil, and fuel to no avail. Replaced ecu, and even the power steering pressure switch. Nothing fixed it. Drove it for a few months and trashed it. I gave up and just dealt with it. Scrapped it for 700
@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair i drive 60k + per year delivering meds. I replace the workhorse every 10-14 months. Tbh, the only reason I scrapped it, was because the yard offered more to crush it, than my highest offer privately for 2 months 😆 🤣..1 guy came to purchase for 8, knowing it had this high idle, and knowing it went thru a quart of oil every 1500 miles, and got mad at me when it smoked with a high idle lol.. I found myself an 03 sentra ser spec v, 2.5L 6 spd for dirt and have been fixing it up slowly. Shouldve honestly filmed the process.. good show guys. Looking forward to seeing more of your content.
EGR needs a TAP TEST to see if it is sticking. If the IACV (older models) has some coolant lines going to the TB, which is not fully warming up the IACV due to air or junk trapped in the coolant area, this can be one problem. Since the IACV does not properly close from not being properly heated up, it acts as a vacuum leak, air bypass leak around the butterfly valve. I now see you have an EGR leak which in some cases is a built-in vent hole since it's on the top area away from the EGR plunger check valve face, the top should only be the position sensor and solenoid electronics. Honda likes to open the IACV off idle so when you are driving and come to a sudden stop, the IACV is not closed and the sudden closing of the butterfly valve does not cause the engine to stall and allow the IACV to close off slower at stops. An old test is to watch the Duty Cycle at a stop, fully warm, in gear, brake on, then release the brake and allow the car to roll and watch the DC as the PCM now has a VSS signal that can tell the IACV to open a bit so when you stop, the engine will not die from a sudden stop of the VSS. YES YES YES, plugging the port, inlet bypass port to the IACV is a proper test. You may have experienced a bad ICV in a Nissan that is electronically heated and it also does not fully close when hot so there is an idle problem also, the same scenario here in my story. Clamp off the air hose going to it and problem found, no more bypass air leak. In other engines, the TB Gasket can be put backward blocking off a bleed port causing problems as the bolt pattern is the same both ways but the port holes are not. If you had a sensor simulator handheld tool you could create your own PWM, (name ?). When you do tests, I wish guys would show final good test results, this was prior to the last IACV, SCAN DATA MAP 0.9V Idle IACV 1.0V At 1400RPM, if you don't mind, please redo verification testing for the YT viewers. Thank you for the case study as always.
Hey bud, I remember you told me P219A is possibly injectors. I have this P219A code on my 2013 Chevy Silverado and I have already changed spark plugs, spark plug wires, all eight fuel injectors, both upstream oxygen sensors, purge valve, cleaned mass air flow sensor, changed air filter, changed dirty air pcv hose, cleaned throttle body and performed idle reset using scan tool. What else could it be lol?
in my experience is most egr valves will leak smoke especially, ford . also when that surging idle happens tap on the valve and usually it will clear out and work. telltale sign for iac sticking. also focusing on map which will show air leak issue,but understanding that a leak thats to large could be by the bypass of air by the iac, which is a leak if the valve is sticking open to much . also they say that with like a 4.0 your maf should read close to the same, well i watch that more closely on every car thats running fine and i see now thats not very true either ,so i dont just condemn the maf based on that especially on ford. so watch more good running cars and watch the maf you will be amazed how its not like most utube guys say it should be, just delt with one of those hondas a couple weeks ago same issue also cleaned throttle plate and and made sure the tps voltage was correct at idle
My ford has high miles and throttle plate was sticking closed, hard to get loose after sitting overnight. I cleaned it up, lot of gunk, then idle was too high. Idle screw is immovable so after going through every last other thing to make idle fast - vacuum leaks etc. - I got out a file and filed the idle stop screw. It turned out the throttle plate passed too much air after cleaning off the gunk.
He switched a lot of parts with ' supposed ' new good ones. One of the things I learned and have told many people over the years, Is that there is a thing called ' brand new junk ' Where the ' new ' part you put on is the same or even worse than the one you took off.
It started in high school, I got in a fight with a teacher because the part he got for me to put in his car was ' brand new junk ' or brand new broken.
I noticed the MAF values dropped below 0. With the unmetered air through the EGR . With the leak fixed I would have liked to see the readings on your scan tool on MAF values after the repaired .
That EGR valve is two pieces, splitting in the middle of the pedestal. There's a gasket between the two pieces. It can leak through there and cause a vacuum leak; you should have checked the fuel trims. If the you are monitoring the trims at idle and spray some brake clean right at the middle of the pedestal and there is a leak there you will see the trims change. Or you could remove the EGR valve, plug off the port, and see if the fuel trims change. The IAC can have the interior spindle get stuck/sticky and fail to rotate properly. Disassemble the IAC and cleaned the spindle. I've done it and it completely resolves the high idle issue.
I have replace the iacv for a new denso one, replaced map sensor, purge valve, tps and also replaced the injectors and manifold gasket but still have the code p0505 and car jerks, high rpm idle and surging idle, rpms get stuck and then jump to higher number, i need your help please i have a 2002 honda civic si hatchback, i dont know what to do
@rolandomacielmagana7469 Check the sensor wiring, if the wiring is good then make sure you don'tt have a vacuum leak, I will recommend installing an OEM Sensor
At 1:05, I predict a pair of frayed PSP switch wires at the connector. At 5:30, I'm wondering about coolant flow through the IACV... ...because of the surging. Then, if there isn't a vacuum leak. The surging sounds like fuel cut. At 7:00, I'm wondering why MAP voltage isn't closer to .88V
This guy really is a master in mechanics. God bless you
@nelsontorres2900 Thank you!
I LOVE THE WAY YOU EXPLAIN AUTOMOTIVE REPAIRS . I HAVE BEEN WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS FOR THE PAST 4 HOURS . THANK YOU SO MUCH I WILL CONTINUE TO WATCH YOUR VIDEOS.
@billmontez4082 My Pleasure! Thanks
The spirit of co-operation is awosome. To ask assistance by machanic to another is of a great suprise. South Africa
@wsnxumalo6707 Yes! Thanks
As a diy guy with some experience working on cars, I want to say your knowledge and the way you take time to explain things are very informative. I'm slowly educating myself on obd2 systems and your information is very helpful. I really like that you show a step by step process. Keep up the great work.
@billwhite5853 Thank you!
The only thing I would've done differently would have been to buy ONLY OEM parts in the beginning - Good Video
@jamesmull1747 Thank you
Finally a proper DIY channel that really engages and shares knowledge with its fans and followers. Thumbs up guys.
@muhammadbakashmar3166 Thanks!
Master is an understatement..I don’t know whether to be happy or terrified while I wait for my van. What I do know is that I’m in great hands 🙏🏽
@natashabass215 Lol! H Natasha I will get your van running well again very soon!
I have a question .......Can you explain what happens when you pump the brake pedal to test the 02 sensors? I saw you do it on one of your older videos. Just thought that you might see my question on this recent video as you reviewed the comments. Your skill is self evident and your gift in explaining what you are doing and why is such a wonderful contribution to all of us DIYers. Thank you for that! God Bless you.
@ronniestevens9268 My Pleasure! when You pump the brake pedal while the engine is idling you create a lean condition on a vehicle that has a vacuum operatedbrake booster, because in the booster there is vacuum on one side and atmospheric pressure on the other, so pumping the brake pedal allows air to enter the vacuum chamber and create a lean condition, since the vacuum side is attached to the intake manifold, when this happens 02 sensors that are good react to the mixture change very fast, indicating good 02 sensors!!
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair I understand. Thank you for explaining that. That is very helpful and a valuable bit of advice!
@@ronniestevens9268 My Pleasure!
Smart guy, I love watching competency finding faults. You guys that are young and want to have fun working on electronic, get the training and put effort into learning from good tekkies.
@larrymeyer2917 Thank you!
Very nice explanation,I did work for Honda dealer in Texas (just water sprite to detect vacuum leaks)if you have the insufficient code after a new EGR is a EGR port down thev intake collapse of slosh you have to clean it and install a bronce pipe to avoid the problem again (it a O.E kit to do that problem)hope this information helps some body
@agoodneighborautorepair2176 Thanks for sharing this with us!
Thanks for sharing , and for showing the end what really was the issue and how resolved the problem.. thanks both of you
@luismanuelmartinez1088 My Pleasure!
I started watching your videos 2days ago and I am overwhelmed by your explicit teachings. Thank you my AUTO TEACHER. Please I want to ask, are you Dale or Dele?
@OsundareBayonle My Pleasure! My name is Deo
Nice work! Wish this video was available a few years ago. I had this issue with a 2000 Civic Si and I sold it because I didn't have this knowledge to resolve it after several local shops were not able to fix it. I kept throwing IAC valves at it and the issue would come back repeatedly after the motor was HOT.
@twadam5218 Thanks! I'm sorry to hear about your car!
I have a 2000 Civic and have the P0505 code, cleaned the throttle flap and IAC vavle and I still have the P0505 DTC and now a P0132 O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 DTC too. Did you ever fix it?
Sorry @michaelkelly3501 as my previous post implies I sold the car (unfixed).
If your anywhere near upstate NY, look up Eric O at South Main Auto. If I still had the car I would have drove or trailed the car several hours to see if he would work on it. He puts out amazing diagnostic videos here on youtube.
Another problem with older Hondas with iac valves. There is an additional valve that lets in air to aid in fast idle with a cold engine. It is a wax pellet valve that reacts to coolant temp. It is open when cold to allow additional air into the intake to increase idle speed and as the coolant heats up the valve closes and shuts off the air. If the coolant level is low the valve won't heat up and the idle won't come down. When the engine warms up the computer sees a high idle with a closed throttle and it goes into fuel cut mode. That causes the surging. Often the only problem is low coolant level.
@OzFrog48Z Thank you for sharing this with us, I appreciate it!
Happens alot on the gsr/ls engines and d16.
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repairclean all the ground bolts and wiring harnesses with isopropyl alcohol and blow them dry with an air compressor and reinstall the next day. Including computer ground bolts and harnesses inside the car. It takes a few hours, at the end of the day - to be certain all the alcohol has dried.
You didn't say the model year on the car, or your geographic location. So they salt the roads?
As the top comment posted. This was a known issue back in the day with a bad Fast Idle Thermal (FIT) valve. Air in the cooling system would give you the same surging idle. Air can enter due to a leak somewhere in the cooling system. I had a leak at the inlet hose to the FIT valve in the past, so that was where the coolant would escape and air would take it's place. The location of the valve was the highest location of any coolant passage, so the leak was slow to appear under normal conditions. I noticed the coolant a bit low and pressure tested to find the leak.
There is always a reason, the "Amazon" sensors/parts are a small fraction of the cost, compared to OEM!! Especially HONDA or ACURA.
Always go oem sensors or electronics, for Honda.,...Always. HONDA OEM,...always solves the issue.
EGR sticking open would cause rough idle, stall and fuel trim correction towards negative in a MAP system.
On these it's usually low coolant, vacuum leak or I've also seen where someone messes with cable adjustments.
Lots of good comments in here also btw.
@JimmyMakingitwork Thank you for your input!
Bishop correct you are the man sirs greath pepole thank you.,.😊
I believe you answered my question that I wanted asked . With the unmetered air going in the EGR , would it cause the MAF reading go into negative values ?
@@tonyarthur2828Correct it will causing a rich condition
congratulations to both of you great work thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
@charlyreyesolivares197 My Pleasure! Thanks
That’s was logic driven diagnosis hats off on ur procedure great video
@gustavomartinez324 Thank you!
First time viewer, 30+ years in the automotive trade. I gave you a thumbs up and a sub, so now I will be looking for you to impress me, lol. I would not have put the aftermarket EGR on this car, especially considering what you said. If you are going to tell the customer that they will probably need an OEM valve in the future because the new one has a slight leak, I would just leave the old one on which also has a small leak. But I would tell the customer that they are going to need a new OEM valve now or in the very near future if they want there vehicle running right. Just my opinion, other than that it was a good video. You two seem to have a good synergy together, keep it up!
@mikeburdi3464 Thank you! and welcome to our UA-cam community!!
He had EGR flow codes with the OG EGR valve.
Sorry brother I didn’t know much about car but I’m learning from you as much as I can pick up and I subscribe you as my mechanic
@roeunkeang3197 Thanks!
Great! Nice work boys 👏 good to see you guys bouncing ideas back and forth. Great teamwork 🎉
@Yukizan Thank you!
best diagnoser ever.....your the best Kit!
@dougpfaltzgraff Thank you!
Thank you خليفة 👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍👍
@thearrow5793 My Pleasure!
Great diagnoses love the way you explained the control of the different components Happy New Year
@billneu9520 Thank you! Happy New Year to you too!
Love Bishops attitude! I had a similar experience before converting to OEM church haha great video thanks for sharing ❤
@Yukizan Thank you!
I am having difficulty with my 2000 civic thanks to your videos I have learned so much one thing I need a scanner a good scanner I have code read scanners but I need a live scanner and a smoke machine without those there’s no way I can fix it thank you for your knowledge
@8216. My Pleasure! I'm glad to hear that the videos have been helpful!
O@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair
I have a 2000 Civic and have the P0505 code, cleaned the throttle flap and IAC vavle and I still have the P0505 DTC and now a P0132 O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 DTC too. Did you fix yours?
Electronic parts have to oem or denso. Otherwise it can be a massive headache Good job guys 👍
@on-site4094 Thank you!
Nice job guys. I have always used starter fluid to find vacuum leaks quickly. This is the first time I have seen a smoke machine used to find leaks. But I do not work on cars as a professional. I have rebuilt several engines in my time though.
You have to use starter fluid while the engine is cold of course and use it sparingly and only spray at intake components. Stay away wires, connectors, or near the exhaust. Starter fluid near heat and/or an electrical short/spark can be dangerous.
@mrb.r601 Thanks!
Hey anyone know where I can find alternator that charges without depending on pcm
i have this same problem,hope you've solve my problem bro.i appreciate your video.
@suziepana-nx3tt My Pleasure!
good vid man!!!! most EGR valves i come across when smoke testing normally have a small leak & does not effect fuel trims ...i personally hate installing aftermarket parts but unfortunately have to most of the time ,but have come across certain cars & problems that only factory parts will work & i make sure that we only use factory parts on those cars
@87Stang Yes! I agree! Thanks
Nice job 15:00 all egr valves laeks,all tps shaft leaks, pcv os a vaccum leak . Those are considered as measured leaks that are ignored o pre program on the cuastom tables of the software for fuel trims control
@JoelAutomotiveInaction Thanks!
Thanks you sir- You are a true professor of your craft. Have you ever worked on a 2008 Infiniti M35X with over heating issues
@marcl9911 Thank you!
Always follow you my friend you explain well to understand and am learning something
@butlerstore4368 My Pleasure! Thanks
Nice work and repair guys! New to your videos!😊
Thank you!
Awesome job, my brother!
I love diagnostic videos like this.
Thanks.
@ysitrim88 My Pleasure! Thanks
Not certain of this car, but I have seen egr system issues [specifically a modulator] show up as poor milage/long term fuel trim staying high. The loss of control [a broken diaphragm] was a vacuum leak, but since egr readback was proved by temperature sensor it threw a low "flow" code. Worked I guess, but the language choices used sometimes lead us down paths that eat up time. Egr's are odd ducks: active for moderate acceleration, but off under something like 1500 rpm. So I wondered about the surging: a return to normal [intermittantly] but most the time system is compensating using IAC to keep it running? Again, fuel trim is often a good clue. The funny thing about egr codes [if that is what set this trouble up in the first place] is that replacing egr may well be the last thing to do - you said "aftermarket" regarding egr and that right there is a red flag. Your smoke machine got it done - that can be a great timesaver.
@flinch622 Thank you for the input I appreciate!
Wouldn't the O2 sensor reading be on the lean side as well for constant unmetered air entering through the EGRV?
@@rambleon2838 fuel trim corrects that and mileage goes south. In some ways, the O2 sensor referees most intake side malfunctions because it has the final word... which is why fixing certain exhaust leaks is important
Great job both of you
@leletipiham8156 Thank you!
Will the leaking EGR valve introduce exhaust gases into the environment of the nearby AFR sensor and disrupt its accuracy?
@jptrainor the leak was not big enough!
Two great minds at work
@alella4945 Thank you!
Very good excellent wonderful job you guys teaching me lots thanks
@eddyvila6686 My Pleasure!!
Fricken awesome job very impressive stuff man thank you
@genekostron7998 My Pleasure! Thanks
You do an amazing work 😊
@mariomata9177 Thank you!
At 26:30,👏👏👏👏👏 the IAC valve!!!
Kudos to the guys!
I enjoyed the ride!
@EKHondaMotive Thanks!
I use the feul trims data on scan tool when i suspect vaccum leak , high trims at idle drops as u increase throttle . and perhaps stuck open evap purge solnoid
@wagoosh78 Yes!
Other than air and oil filters, I always use OEM parts. I learned my lesson with using reman NAPA rear brake calipers for my Accord. 2 years later I had replaced both calipers a total of 4 times because of junk NAPA reman parts. Sure they're under warranty, but when your brake calipers sieze unannounced and it's -5 degrees in the middle of February, you'll be sorry you went the cheap route.
@milfordcivic6755 I agree with you!!
Seems a vacuum leak would have been able to be verified just looking that the freeze frame from the original code and looking at the fuel trims.
@SchrodingersBox Yes! I agree, Sometimes I tend to forget to look at Freeze Frame Data, Thank you! I appreciate your input!
WHEN IAC IS ZERO AND RPM IS STILL HIGH ; IT MUST BE A VACUUM LEAK ADDITIONALY I LEARNED TO TEST INTAKE MANIFOLD AS DEO DID; THANK YOU DEO.
@sambitar5194 Yes! Thanks
Good video. I have one question.
I got a car (manual) that shifts gears hard when the car is cold, and whenever the car runs for a bit then the gear starts to shift more easier...What do you think it can be? Oil change? Intermittent issue. Thank you very much man!
That's odd! you could have a sticking clutch disc! etc...
u have a good way to diagnosis
@northstar5934 Thank you!
Did you try different aftermarket air control valve or 2 of the same brand?
@billvanwagner4069 No!
But won't that leak from egr affect fuel trims? I mean it will run lean at some point, right?
@e.r.videography6209 Yes! we could have seen it by looking at fuel trim numbers too!
the more you smoke cars the more you will gain knowledge and most egrs will leak smoke on those test, but i think its so small it never causes a lean issue or fuel trim issue from my experience
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair Great! Thanks for your response.
@@paulspooner-q6k Wow!I did not know that. Thanks for sharing your experience.
The only thing I would have done is look at the fuel trims before smoking. Nonetheless great job Deo.
@rayp.454 Thank you!
Good video, Thanks for Sharing! I'm curious to know what the fuel trims were, with the bad IAC.
@advancedleveldiagnostics Thanks!! I didn't look at trim numbers, I should have, I'm pretty sure they would be in the high positives
That is kinda what I was thinking of looking at o2 signals. ALD peace gtsy I just subbed this brother technician he is very analytical I like his diagnostic approach like yours ❤😂
always look at fuel trims when diagnosing.
Great video.
@jptrainor Thanks!
Big man u re the expert,think for a video
@CaciousMwamba-n4t Thanks!
You too good to fix it quick
@yawadunu Thank you!
Why did'nt you check fuel trim ,thanks
@nandanalal5072 Good question! Because the idle speed was stuck high I already knew that the problem was a vacuum leak or a bad idle air control valve since this is a MAP engine ( Speed Density Engine ), so the steps I took in this video were experience based!
What brand was the aftermarket parts. Thanks
Not sure if it was mentioned, but I would've monitored the scoping of the idle valve at operating temperature to see the valve open and close. I'm assuming there would be some distortion in the signal when it's commanded to close
@user-sv2ex7ux4i yes!
Which hose did you connect the smoke machine to again?
@snowdragon930 The Smoke machine was connected to the back of the intake!
Did replacing the EGR valve fixed the p0505? Im having the same issue but with a 2.3L. Already replaced the IAC valve with oem honda and codes came back after driving around… i also have no EGR valve codes which is weird
@jomine16 No, the fix on this car was installing an OEM EGR Valve, make sure you get an oem EGR Valve
you have done well very good
@SiawautoMechanicalservice Thank you!
I love your videos
@davidessien5465 Thank you!
Thank you 🎉
@saiedabushadi4012 My Pleasure!
Totally subbed brother good job i am a tech in Alaska at a import shop cant wait to see more diagnostics videos or repair replace vids keep up the good work brother bringing honor to the trade ❤😂
@northernpatriot9078 Thank you and welome to our youtube communitty!
Hi there, again, a great video. Question: Where is your shop located? Want to have a second opinion to fix my 2002 accord break situation. Thanks.
@MagicHandDrawingandElse Hello our shop is located in Dickerson MD, you can email me at kitsautoandtruckrepair@gmail.com to set up an appointment!
@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair I have a 2002 Honda CRV, and it's the same issue! I have tried 3 idle air control valves from AutoZone. I am glad that he mentioned he has tried 2 after-market parts and still failed. Where can I find an OEM idle air control valve for a 2002 Honda CRV 4WD EX. My next approach is getting a used one from the junkyard and hoping it works.
@DavidSanchez-fo7sx if you can't get it from the Dealer, the junkyard would be a good option and make sure the wiring the IAC Valve is good!
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair Replaced it with a junkyard part. Cleaned it and installed it. Idles much better when it is cold but once it warms up, the same issue with the surging. How would I test the wiring? I can't find anywhere that tells me how much V each wire should have. Can the IAC be tested with a multimeter before being installed? Would have loved to see a side-by-side comparison between the specs of the OEM and the faulty part like resistance or voltage between pins.
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair Also, the CEL is on. It surges, but When I clear the code, it idles perfectly. Any reason why is does that? assuming its faulty, shouldn't it continue to surge.
Awesome stuff! You are the man!
@riprob93 Thank you!
Is it possible to check the ideal speed control valve out side the hood
@abdulnasir4400 No. I don't think so
great tech and great guy tks
@danman9017 My Pleasure! Thanks
There was a recall on the EGR valve for these engines years ago. Is the "old" one a replaced EGR valve under the recall or is it the original defective design?
@Aberdeenroadie We replaced the old one with an OEM one!
So good uncle
@emmanuelmassamba2480 Thank you my Nephew Bitsoua!!
Ok my iacv screws are stuck. Do you know where i can get new screws if i replaced it
@morvieous you can get those screws from a junkyard or from your local honda dealer!
Your scanner had 02 Honda Accord selected? What year Odyssey were you working on..
Sorry I misunderstood application another way to see if it has an external vacuum leak is too close off Throttle body opening and see if engine will run
@johnt4962 we were working on an Honda Accord here!
@johnt4962 Oh yes! That's a great trick! Thanks for sharing!
I had this same issue on my saturn wagon. 1.9 twin cam. Replaced everything ya'll did, and more, smoked it with no leaks, even replaced plastic valve cover with the aluminum one. Ac switch, ign sw., map, maf, intake temp, coolant temp sensor, throttle position, throttle body with relearn, brake booster and check valve, and vacuum line to intake, checked intake gasket with water, brake clean, oil, and fuel to no avail. Replaced ecu, and even the power steering pressure switch. Nothing fixed it. Drove it for a few months and trashed it. I gave up and just dealt with it. Scrapped it for 700
@mikeschaner5853 Oh dang I'm sorry to hear that you had to get rid of your car for this issue!
@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair i drive 60k + per year delivering meds. I replace the workhorse every 10-14 months. Tbh, the only reason I scrapped it, was because the yard offered more to crush it, than my highest offer privately for 2 months 😆 🤣..1 guy came to purchase for 8, knowing it had this high idle, and knowing it went thru a quart of oil every 1500 miles, and got mad at me when it smoked with a high idle lol.. I found myself an 03 sentra ser spec v, 2.5L 6 spd for dirt and have been fixing it up slowly. Shouldve honestly filmed the process.. good show guys. Looking forward to seeing more of your content.
AMEN 🙏 BROTHER
@penijaminisilimaibau8690 Amen! Thanks
EGR needs a TAP TEST to see if it is sticking. If the IACV (older models) has some coolant lines going to the TB, which is not fully warming up the IACV due to air or junk trapped in the coolant area, this can be one problem. Since the IACV does not properly close from not being properly heated up, it acts as a vacuum leak, air bypass leak around the butterfly valve. I now see you have an EGR leak which in some cases is a built-in vent hole since it's on the top area away from the EGR plunger check valve face, the top should only be the position sensor and solenoid electronics.
Honda likes to open the IACV off idle so when you are driving and come to a sudden stop, the IACV is not closed and the sudden closing of the butterfly valve does not cause the engine to stall and allow the IACV to close off slower at stops. An old test is to watch the Duty Cycle at a stop, fully warm, in gear, brake on, then release the brake and allow the car to roll and watch the DC as the PCM now has a VSS signal that can tell the IACV to open a bit so when you stop, the engine will not die from a sudden stop of the VSS. YES YES YES, plugging the port, inlet bypass port to the IACV is a proper test.
You may have experienced a bad ICV in a Nissan that is electronically heated and it also does not fully close when hot so there is an idle problem also, the same scenario here in my story. Clamp off the air hose going to it and problem found, no more bypass air leak. In other engines, the TB Gasket can be put backward blocking off a bleed port causing problems as the bolt pattern is the same both ways but the port holes are not.
If you had a sensor simulator handheld tool you could create your own PWM, (name ?). When you do tests, I wish guys would show final good test results, this was prior to the last IACV, SCAN DATA MAP 0.9V Idle IACV 1.0V At 1400RPM, if you don't mind, please redo verification testing for the YT viewers. Thank you for the case study as always.
@DuaneDonaldson My Pleasure! and thanks for your input, I appreciate it
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repairi
Hey bud, I remember you told me P219A is possibly injectors.
I have this P219A code on my 2013 Chevy Silverado and I have already changed spark plugs, spark plug wires, all eight fuel injectors, both upstream oxygen sensors, purge valve, cleaned mass air flow sensor, changed air filter, changed dirty air pcv hose, cleaned throttle body and performed idle reset using scan tool.
What else could it be lol?
@TurnThemWheels I recommend you take it to a pro mechanic who can diagnose it properly!!
You did't showed us removal and replacing Iddle control valve. From South Africa 30:28
@wsnxumalo6707 Cool
You both rock
@david-jh8rg Thank you!
Hello nice tutorial
Could you have manually operated the EFR ? Most times carbon deposits obstruct it from working properly.
@josephpuchel6497 Thanks!
good job & good man ....
@EngineerMohammed-y7i Thank you!
having fun! while working. nothing better
@maxnguyen22 Yes!!
in my experience is most egr valves will leak smoke especially, ford . also when that surging idle happens tap on the valve and usually it will clear out and work. telltale sign for iac sticking. also focusing on map which will show air leak issue,but understanding that a leak thats to large could be by the bypass of air by the iac, which is a leak if the valve is sticking open to much . also they say that with like a 4.0 your maf should read close to the same, well i watch that more closely on every car thats running fine and i see now thats not very true either ,so i dont just condemn the maf based on that especially on ford. so watch more good running cars and watch the maf you will be amazed how its not like most utube guys say it should be, just delt with one of those hondas a couple weeks ago same issue also cleaned throttle plate and and made sure the tps voltage was correct at idle
@user-te3pn4pb4u Yes! Thanks for your input!
My ford has high miles and throttle plate was sticking closed, hard to get loose after sitting overnight. I cleaned it up, lot of gunk, then idle was too high. Idle screw is immovable so after going through every last other thing to make idle fast - vacuum leaks etc. - I got out a file and filed the idle stop screw.
It turned out the throttle plate passed too much air after cleaning off the gunk.
Where is ur shop located in which state
@richardbentham1864 Our shop is located in Dickerson MD, you can email me at kitsautoandtruckrepair@gmail.com for shop info!
Great Video🎉🎉🎉
@user-uj1xg7hb2u Thank you!
Is it the correct throttle body gasket?
@p1epoppa yes he used installed the correct throttle gasket!
He switched a lot of parts with
' supposed ' new good ones.
One of the things I learned and have told many people over the years, Is that there is a thing called ' brand new junk '
Where the ' new ' part you put on is the same or even worse than the one you took off.
@michaelszczys8316 Yes! I like it Brand new junk Lol!!
It started in high school, I got in a fight with a teacher because the part he got for me to put in his car was
' brand new junk ' or brand new broken.
I noticed the MAF values dropped below 0. With the unmetered air through the EGR . With the leak fixed I would have liked to see the readings on your scan tool on MAF values after the repaired .
@tonyarthur2828 oh yeah! it's too bad that we didn't show those numbers afterwards!
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair thanks !
Why didn't you check fuel trims if you suspect unmetered air coming from the egr?
@ILL.LOWCANO I should have! I got ahead of myself!
always check the obvious first, would have saved you alit of time but great vidio guys
@scottandpamelairwin1987 Thanks!
That EGR valve is two pieces, splitting in the middle of the pedestal. There's a gasket between the two pieces. It can leak through there and cause a vacuum leak; you should have checked the fuel trims. If the you are monitoring the trims at idle and spray some brake clean right at the middle of the pedestal and there is a leak there you will see the trims change. Or you could remove the EGR valve, plug off the port, and see if the fuel trims change.
The IAC can have the interior spindle get stuck/sticky and fail to rotate properly. Disassemble the IAC and cleaned the spindle. I've done it and it completely resolves the high idle issue.
@schifoso oh ok, Good to know! Thanks for your input
I have replace the iacv for a new denso one, replaced map sensor, purge valve, tps and also replaced the injectors and manifold gasket but still have the code p0505 and car jerks, high rpm idle and surging idle, rpms get stuck and then jump to higher number, i need your help please i have a 2002 honda civic si hatchback, i dont know what to do
@rolandomacielmagana7469 Check the sensor wiring, if the wiring is good then make sure you don'tt have a vacuum leak, I will recommend installing an OEM Sensor
Isn’t there a fairly complicated idle relearn procedure on those Hondas after any throttle body cleaning?
@bartscave No! this idle air control valve didn't require a relearn!
No relearn for egr valve or egr modulator required
Nice video but it would of been nice to know what year and model the car was
@HighLife233 Thanks, I said the year and model at tthe beginning of tthe video!
Did you check the throttle cable? Some people adjust it to fix a low idle. Then after the engine is fixed you will have this exact problem
@fmbfla Oh Cool, Good to know!
I worked for Honda for may years , they do not do well on aftermarket parts, i'm not sure why but some parts just don't do well on Hondas
@artvandalay1899 Yes!!
Great video thanks
@markferraro5250 Thank you!
Good work
@adamissah452 Thank you!
Can you soap to check the air valve s
@adamissah452 the problem was the winding of the valve!
How about the gas cap too?
@Mark-um3hm Good suggestion!
At 1:05, I predict a pair of frayed PSP switch wires at the connector.
At 5:30, I'm wondering about coolant flow through the IACV...
...because of the surging.
Then, if there isn't a vacuum leak. The surging sounds like fuel cut.
At 7:00, I'm wondering why MAP voltage isn't closer to .88V
@EKHondaMotive aftermarket MAPs can be slightly off!