VT/EYE TO EYE PRUSIK Educational Series (Episode #1)!
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- Опубліковано 29 гру 2022
- VT (Valdotain Tresse) Prusik
Special thanks to the commenter of my previous video who suggested I ad lib this video!
The VT Prusik was created by Rich Carlson and his channel is at: / @canyonscrags
Characteristics of a VT prusik:
Comes in a variety of lengths, with the most common being 28”, 30”, and 32” and each end has a sewn eye. It has a core that is typically made from Nylon, Polyester, Dyneema or a blend of two of these fibers. Covering and protecting the core is the sheath, which is usually made from aramid fibers such as Technora or Kevlar and sometimes a blend consisting of one of these two aramids mixed with polyester is used. These aramid fibers are extremely resistant to heat, which prevent the sheath from melting from the rope on rope friction created during their use, especially during descents. Technora, in particular, does not melt whatsoever, making it ideal for this purpose.
When loaded from eye to eye, this Teufelberger EpiCord, which is 9.3mm in diameter and 32” in length, has a strength (MBS) of around 3,000lbs (13kN). When it is in basket configuration, the MBS becomes 6,000lbs (26kN).
Eye to Eye Hitch Cords VS. Sewn Loops:
Because it is an eye to eye, and not a sewn loop, there are a large number of unique and helpful hitches that can be tied with it. Loops only allow the climber to make symmetric prusiks, whereas an eye to eye allows for the tying of asymmetric prusiks.
Unlike the symmetric prusik, which has a tendency to easily jam under load, making it difficult or impossible to ascend or descend, the VT will reliably allow a climber to descend, even when their full body weight is on the hitch. Ascending with the VT is also much easier because the design of the hitch releases constriction around the rope as the climber begins lifting the hitch from the two eyes.
Applications for the VT Prusik/Asymmetric Prusik:
Typically, it’s best to use an asymmetric prusik for ascending and the VT for descending. Although the VT can most certainly be used for ascending, the reason why an asymmetric prusik is better suited for that application is that it has virtually no “sit back.” If one were to use a VT, for every foot they ascend, for example, they would lose about three inches or so from the “sit back.”
While eye to eye prusiks are great for tying hitches, that isn’t their only possible use! They can also be used as a lanyard at full or half length by connecting it to one’s harness. In full length, one eye is affixed to the connection point on a climber’s harness by using either a locking carabiner or a quick link. For a half length lanyard, the eye to eye prusik is folded into basket configuration, with the midpoint of the cord secured around the climber’s harness and with a carabiner through both eyes at the opposite end.
Additionally, it can be folded into basket configuration and a carabiner can be attached to both ends, forming an emergency quickdraw that can be full, half or quarter length!
VT Prusik Cord Rope Compatibility:
An 8mm VT prusik cord, for example, is designed to be compatible with ropes of equal or larger diameter. This is made possible in part because of its ability to flatten out as it is wrapped around a rope, creating a large amount of surface area for it to produce rope on rope friction.
Customizing Eye to Eye Prusik Hitches:
It is important to remember that, just because you were taught to tie a hitch a certain way doesn’t mean that it has to be tied exactly the same way under all conditions. If a hitch is normally taught to have four wraps at the start of the hitch, but you find that you’re struggling to get the hitch to move, don’t be afraid to try three wraps instead, or even two wraps if you’re a smaller person. Just be sure to make and test these adjustments “low and slow,” which is to say that you should be low to the ground and make sure that you cautiously execute your test motions.
***IMPORTANT VIDEO NOTE*** For whatever reason, back when I created this video, I was referring to common "hitch cords" or *eye to eye prusiks" as VT Prusiks. Please understand that I made a mistake and that the "VT Prusik" refers to an actual, singular, very specific hitch cord that is manufactured by Blue Water ropes. VT Prusik, in other words, is one single product and, if I could remake this video, I would strictly refer to them as eye to eye prusiks and/or hitch cords because those are the proper terms for the items showcased throughout this video. The VT Prusik is simply one of MANY different types of hitch cord, sometimes referred to by vendors as "tech cord." The is an entire world of different friction hitches/eye to eye prusiks on the market, sold in various diameters, and made from various heat resistant fibers, and with many unique patterns and colors/designs. So yeah...please forgive my ignorance. Back when this video was made, I was a) completely new to YouTubing and b) not naerly as educated with regards to climbing gear, hitches, and techniques as I am now. Thanks for listening to my clarification! =-D
Great video 😊
I'm glad you enjoyed my video! Thanks so much for your support!
Asymmetric 'prusik 's can be easily tied using a cord instead of a loop.
I'm aware. That was the point I made in my video; that they were difficult or impossible to make with a loop.
Where can you buy the prusiks cords with eyes ?
A number of places...
Wesspur (my personal favorite)
wesspur.com/prusiks/friction-hitches.html
TreeStuff
www.treestuff.com/climbing/climbing-gear/eye-slings-tails/
Bartlett
www.bartlettman.com/collections/prussics
Sherrill Tree
sherrilltree.com/climb/prusiks-split-tails/
And even Amazon...
www.amazon.com/s?k=eye+to+eye+prusik&crid=2Q4E6F87RVONK&sprefix=eye+to+eye+prusik%2Caps%2C198&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
There are others, but these are the best places to begin looking. Make sure you buy something that is made out of heat resistant fibers! I can't stress that enough; unless you're only using it for ascents. But for use with descents as well, you need heat resistant fibers. Most of what these vendors sell are heat resistant. If you don't know whether one is heat resistant or not, you can ask me and I might be able to figure it out for you.
@@Knot-orious thank you very much.
How long is the cord you’re using for the vt?
Anywhere from 30-32" is ideal. For 8mm hitch cords or smaller, even 28" might work. If you plan to use it with a Rope Wrench, it's better to err on the side of caution and go between 28-30" just so that your hitch doesn't ride too close to the actaul wrench part. Ideally, you always want the most compact hitch you can get for a Rope Wrench.
Can you safety use the eye to eye hitch cord to prusik as a backup to your ascender ropeman or grigri?
Yes, although the actual Prusik hitch would not be your best choice for descending. For ascending, you could use pretty much any friction hitch. For descending, unless you happen to have a rope wrench, you would be limited to using a Valdotain Tresse; it's the only hitch that would be unlikely to bind when using it as is for a descent.
@@Knot-oriousI'm using it in a hunting situation as a second safety backup device... I'm a saddle hunter and using a Ropeman to my tether. Got to thinking its always good to have a backup incase of a fall off the stand and the ropeman breaks the prusik wound grab before I got to the stopper knot... I just need a little more rope on the prusik to the saddle. This is where I thought the eye to eye either doubled up or eye to eye would work perfectly
You could always simply put an eye to eye hitch cord, with the eyes at the same connection hole where the ropeman is, with a carabiner going through both, and then have a friction hitch tied above it. The only issue with devices that have teeth is that they might de-sheath the rope if you were to take a fall with forces above 4kN and then you would have no way down and you would get stuck trying to climb up the core of the rope, which is very hard. If you use a friction hitch instead, and take a fall at 4kN, it will actually just slide down the rope a little bit and help to dissipate forces on your body, without desheathing the rope. Just something to consider.
@@Knot-oriousI appreciate the feedback thanks for the help and insight... Good stuff!
You can tie a klemheist with a loop
I'm fully aware of this. I'm not sure why you're saying that. Can you give me some context, please? I made this video a long time ago, so I can't remember everything I said. But I am certain that even back then I knew quite well that a klemheist can be tied using a loop. Anyways, maybe I misspoke? Help me understand. Thanks.
@Knot-orious
You had said about only symetrical prusiks can be tied with loops.
For the rigging I do, I like to stay as much in line with main line as possible.
I often use friction hitches gripping 3/4 pipe to raise or lower high bay lights with a 50ft articulated boom lift.
@@glennreynolds962 Thank you for elaborating. You got me. If that's what I said, then you're completely correct in your assertion that the Klemheist is an asymmetrical which can be tied using a loop. Definitely an oversight on my part. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
What about double splice on 8 or 10 mm. rope (for the eye), is it possible? and, could go around 5400 pounds in basket? I mean for ropes like Pelican, mamuth, Yale, etc.
Are you asking if you can use climbing ropes as a hitch cord/eye to eye prusik cord? The answer is yes, but only if you are using it to ASCEND and nothing else. If you use it for descents, the eye to eye will surely melt from all of the heat. You need to buy hitch cord that is made using heat resistant material. If you have never bought it before, I can link where I buy most of mine. Just let me know.
You should be buying heat resistant cord and splicing it the way you describe. I have plenty of hitch cords that have been made by creating double splices on each end.
@@Knot-orious ok I was thinking on used on a lanyard, but thanks for all the info.
@@samuelperez1886 Used on lanyard would be a perfect use for it.
Your hands are always in the way of the knot tying...
This video is two years old. I highly doubht my hands obstruct any knot tying in my more recent videos.
Diameter prusik berapa
Jika Anda melihat frame pertama dalam video, Anda akan melihat loop yang dijahit di bagian atas, yang berdiameter 7mm, kabel pengikat Sterling RIT 9mm di bawahnya, dan kemudian Teufelberger Epicord 9.3mm di bagian bawah. Semoga ini membantu!
@@Knot-orious saya pakai diameter 10 tidak dapat mencengkram ke tali karmantel selalu los