Відео

Those are just loops I sewed onto the Fusion tether so that I can connect my nether tether or chest harness (depending on which one I'm using) via an accessory carabiner, which allows me to tend my rope wrench hands-free as I rope walk up a rope. The orange loop was my original loop for the same purpose, but it was too low on the tether and sometimes it would get in the way of my hands doing "hand over hand" above my device. So that's why I installed the blue one. I should probably just cut off the orange one. But yeah, the holes in the Fusion tether are supposed to be designed for use with accessory carabiners, but I don't like using them because my carabiners often get stuck in them. So that's why I made the loops because it's easier and they won't damage my accessory carabiners over time. Good question. Here's my full length rope walking tutorial if you're interested: ua-cam.com/video/d0KANR_0xfY/v-deo.html

Spliced terminations are definitely the best choice. I agree with you on that. Wesspur may not splice in house, but it only takes them an extra day or two to fulfill an order. I tried looking up the Yale Focus and couldn't find it. Is it only on Wesspur you said? Blue Moon has a lot of analogue versions. Is the Focus different in any way other than the colors? I found the Focus. It's pretty cool looking, actually. www.wesspur.com/yale-focus-tree-climbing-rope?srsltid=AfmBOopc2UlgAuUcRAO6-7sSxlAlOkI8yYvMvaVKi0d0Y29sB8b8s5y_ EDIT: Reminds me too much of ketchup and mustard, though haha It's like a MacDonalds ropes.

Can you please add some context to your comment perhaps? I'm not understanding what you' meant by what you just said. Thanks!

You're welcome! Glad you like it! Be sure to check out the second tying method as well! ua-cam.com/users/shortsY4UybVc0B8k

There are a number of options for redirecting off of a vertical spar/limb. I've made videos for several options... Redirect using an anchor ring, which will cinch down securely: ua-cam.com/video/Galsp_u6qmM/v-deo.html Redirect using a Figure 8 descender, which will cinch down securely: ua-cam.com/video/9ymCs7sgP4o/v-deo.html Beasthorn redirect (watch the second half of the video where I demo on a vertical limb): ua-cam.com/video/1Eo6ru5mOHE/v-deo.html You could also always just girth hitch a sling around the limb and connect a carabiner to it, then redirect off of it, among various other options that I can't recall at the moment.

For a high line on a static rope pulled from horizontally down the line I see where this works ❤ But far too often this knot is used wrong 😢

​@@bmint I use the Alpine Butterfly for TONS of different applications. But mostly for creating canopy anchors for creating emergency backups on my basal anchors. As someone who typically doesn't load my ABs with anything beyond the weight of myself and my equipment, I've never had any issue with them jamming. However, it is well established that the Figure 8 on a Bight is the strongest, most secure loop knot, and one of the easiest to untie after being loaded. I have no doubt that the AB jams worse than the Figure 8 when loaded heavily. As you mentioned, the AB is great for when you need to load the rope on both sides of the knot. It can also be great for isolating a "core shot" in a rope. Thanks for commenting and for your insights.

No, unlike the Reef knot, this knot will not collapse if tied correctly; and it's extremely easy to tie, very secure, and also one of the easiest bend to untie after being heavily loaded.

@@Knot-oriousI’m gonna have to learn this one, thanks 🙏

Also, so long as you tie the Zeppelin bend with enough tail (about a foot of tail for each rope or more) after finishing the knot, it can safely be used for both life support applications and for critical rigging purposes. However, the best bend for life support, by far, is the Double Fisherman's bend because it is completely immune to cyclic loading, more secure than the Zeppelin bend, and just as strong. Only downside is that it is somewhat more difficult to untie after being heavily loaded. Here's my full length video for the Double Fisherman's bend if you're interested. If you've only watched my Shorts, check out my long form (full length) videos as well! ua-cam.com/video/bfNakIYsDLE/v-deo.html

Watch my full length video on this climbing method if you want to learn how it works. Thanks for commenting! ua-cam.com/video/d0KANR_0xfY/v-deo.htmlsi=WHvZ9LwHrdPZpEUC

I'm sure there are still people who are using that method to ascend, but I can't imagine why anyone would want to ignore all of the advancements that have been made in the climbing world in the last several decades. Why wouldn't anyone want to learn the newer/newest methods, which would make their climbing so much faster/easier? Why foot lock when you can just use ascenders? I can appreciate that people are often nostalgic for the old days, and I know of many arborists/tree climbers who refuse to learn any of the new techniques, instead preferring to still use a closed or open MRS with a Blake's or a Tautline hitch. To each their own, I guess. But I'd rather keep up with all the latest climbing methods, equipment, and technology.

@@Knot-orious keep it simple

I'd rather have my climbing systems be a bit more complex, but infinitely more efficient and effective, than remain in the tree climbing stone age just because I demand "simplicity." But I respect your opinion and there's really no right or wrong perspective. Whatever works for you isn't always going to work for me; and that's perfectly alright. =-D

Dude, it was a demo, not a competition. Why do people on UA-cam always feel like they need to make comparisons? Can't I just do something correctly, effectively and spread the word to my fellow tree climbers? I'm out here educating people and getting paid crumbs to film freely available educational videos for climbers...and you're flexing on me? Sheeeeeeeeeeeesh.

Yes, it's not a perfect 2:1 force due to friction, but it's close enough to where pretty much everyone in the industry states that the force multiplication is such. Keep in mind that, once a climber actually gets onto the rope and starts moving around, this theoretical 2:1 can easily EXCEED 2:1 and even get near 2.5:1 while a climber is ascending, and even higher if a climber were to fall. The main reason why I almost always use a canopy anchor is because there's absolutely no point in creating extra forces on my TIP when I can avoid it. If I need to get up initially using a basal anchor, I will then convert that basal anchor into a canopy anchor after I reach my TIP for many of my climbs...but not all. If I'm over multiple, or a single, very strong limb, then I won't bother. But force multiplication is very real and, even if the figures usually quoted are theoretical, they are easier to conceptualize for most people and that's why it is the standard among educators.

My canopy ties are always flush against the spar or stem of a tree. If you're setting you're canopy ties so that they are like putting "all the force on the end of a lever," then you're setting your lines way to far out on the limb and that's dangerous. This can happen for basal anchors too and one should avoid setting both in this manner. Keep your anchors right in the crotches, or as close as possible.

@Knot-orious. Take a force meater and put it in a tree. Friction can reduce the forces on certain points of a system by more than 50%. I agree you can ratchet a tree with a basal tie and skinny union. Just don't do that. You can do things to reduce friction in that case. A base anchor let's you use multiple redirects in big trees. You can estimate force vectors to keep your forces compressing unions and loading leaders correctly. Canopy anchors don't allow as many redirects. All of your forces are on one tie in point. Id rather throw in well, pre set a redirect, candy can the trunk once and basal tie. I'm backed up from my primary tie in, my system is lowerable, and I'm starting my climb in a better work position. Canopy anchors aren't bad. They're useful but the best climbers I know use base ties or mid ties on big trees. This is probably a defense due to where we live I'm guessing your big trees aren't super spread out and flat?

​@XbunkerXballerX7127 My trees are very spread out and flat at the top in many cases. I use canopy anchors because there's absolutely ZERO point in creating ANY multiplication of forces unless you absolutely have to. Keep in mind that, unless you analyze the tree limb(s) you're on with an ultrasound machine, you can only reasonably speculate as to how strong it is and, as is often the case with large thick limbs, they can be under a lot of strain and stress already. Basal anchors are great when you can't isolate a limb and can pull your line over multiple solid limbs that will share the load rather well and safely with minimal compression. But I always try to get the highest TIP I possibly can and this means usually tying into smaller limbs towards the top of the canopy, and so canopy anchors are best implemented for such situations. You can do just as many redirects with a canopy anchor as you can with a basal anchor. At least that's been my experience. Especially if your first redirect is made using a sling and a pulley/carabiner, which is what I always do to make any subsequent redirects easier to pull out. I'm not saying that using basal anchors is unsafe. I use them all of the time. But any time that I CAN use a canopy anchor, I WILL use a canopy anchor because until every tree and its limbs start coming with a certified rating like ropes and hardware, I'm going to do everything in my power to reduce or eliminate force multiplication. Because at the end of the day, until I get up to my TIP, I can't always see if the limb I'm on is completely safe to climb on. Nobody can. It's a risk we all take as tree climbers. I've gotten to the top and discovered that half of my TIP has rotted from the top down or that it's got a stress fracture and that the limb is compromised. It's moments like those that I'm ELATED that I took the time to isolate a limb instead of risking force multiplication. Because, had I done so, I might have experienced a quick drop with a sudden, abrupt stop if you catch my drift.

Look man you're right. We can't measure forces in a tree. You're arguing that friction is a non factor whem discussing the real world forces. You are wrong. Here is another sorce showing you forces of a rope around a pole. Again this doesn't have nearly the friction of a tree. We already saw in my last sorce that a carabiner instead of a pully can reduce the force on an anchor by 50%. You aren't understanding the idea of dispersing your forces. You have an outdated overly simplistic idea of the physics involved here. You're right that the total amount of force in a base anchor is multiplied to some extend. This is why you open up the angles and divert that same amount of force over redirects and the leader your candy caned around. I can easily make the forces on 3 redirects less on each individual point vs one canopy tie. If you redirect a canopy tie, you've now multiplied your forces on that first redirect. You're wrong about friction not needing to be considered. I've heard that too. It's what we tree guys say because we didn't go to school for this shit and we don't actually understand physics. Take the time to research the math involved in what we do. Just because ppl say old wives tales all of the time doesn't mean they're true. You need to know this. Miss calculating the forces of your rigging because you're not considering friction could cost you.

I am not entirely sure that I understand your question. When you install a friction saver, you do so using a throwline and a throw weight. You must first isolate a limb and then raise the friction saver up and onto the limb. Then the weight descends back down to the ground, where you next attach your rope to the throwline and pull it up through both of the rings and back down. A rope must ALWAYS be installed through the small ring first and then the big ring. That way, when it comes time to retrieve the friction saver, you can use a retrieval cone or a simple overhand knot in your rope to pull the rope through the big ring; then the cone or knot gets caught on the small ring and you are able to pull it down and catch it. That is what is known as a hard retrieval. You can also retrieve it using a throwline once again, a gently lower it to the ground; this is known as a soft retrieval. Here is my full length video about how to install and retrieve a friction saver from the ground: ua-cam.com/video/d20d9Acnlgg/v-deo.html If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Perhaps I've misunderstood you. I've done my best to answer the question I believe you were asking. =-D

When using it as a spar anchor, as discussed in this video, the same rules apply except you can easily install it while aloft. Again, the rope must always go through the small ring first and then the big ring. This will make retrieval possible.

I also have a comprehensive video about spar anchors, which include the one discussed in this video. You can watch it here: ua-cam.com/video/_wT7wg6Odtw/v-deo.html

Thanks so much! That's awesome! What did you make it out of? A sling like I showed in the video? You're very welcome! I'm happy that you enjoyed my video!

@@Knot-orious the very same one :) bought loads to make speedslings and had one spare.

​@@John-m2s5e That's awesome! I learned how to do that as an alpine climber, as protection for crevasse rescues during glacier crossings and mountain climbs. I've seen plenty of alpine and rock climbing channels demonstrate how easy it is to create a chest harness using a simple sling, however, I might be the first tree climbing channel to do so. It's not just an effective and inexpensive way to create a chest harness, but obviously that sling can be used for countless other applications as well. Pretty much every tree climber should have an assortment of slings for either rigging, anchoring, redirecting, creating redundancies in climbing systems, etc. Don't get me wrong, a proper chest harness is a really nice thing to have. But tree climbing gear is already super expensive and many people are on a budget; hence why I included that pro tip in my video. (Rant Over lol)

This is solid advice! You definitely want to keep your hands relaxed because "white knuckling" a taught, relatively thin climb line is going to start hurting your fingers pretty quickly if you do. Also, someone new to rope walking is initially going to need to take as much time as they need in order to get the rhythm down. You'll notice that at the same moment my right foot lifts up, my left hand moves up above my right hand and visa versa, over and over again. So as Kaveman said, no need to rush the process. But, eventually, once a new climber gets into the groove, they'll find that climbing a little bit faster (but not so fast that you drain yourself) helps them to keep the rhythm going more easily. I tend to take bigger steps on the rope when I rope walk, but you'll also see a lot of climbers taking more, smaller steps because it can sometimes be less physically demanding. Figure out what works for you and just go with it. Again, as Kaveman just aptly stated, your time in a tree is your time. Use it however you enjoy doing so the most! =-D

My Petzl Pantin has very dull, non-aggressive teeth and I've never had it create ANY damage to any rope; it's never even picked a single thread on the cover out ever. The Pantin is $80. The Jetstep is definitely a great foot ascender, though. I will agree with you on that and the design is definitely going to protect your ropes the most. Does it ever come off your rope without you wanting it to? Because it looks like there's no catch to keep the cams locked, just a little metal rail on the outside that may or may not actually help keep the rope in. That's why I'm asking. Also, when I go climbing in snow storms and when my rope is wet, snowy and icy, I would much rather have my Pantin with it's mild teeth than the Jetstep which relies soley upon compression to hold onto the rope. And I love how my Patin has a catch to keep it from ever coming off unintentionally. It's also half the size and weight of the Jetstep, which is likely partly why it costs less. It has half the amount of material than the Jetstep, so of course the Jetstep will cost more.

Wow! Thanks! I really appreciate your comment! Glad you enjoyed the video and I'm excited that my channel is your "go to!" That means a lot to me! =-D

Are you okay? I think you might have suffered a stroke mid sentence. Do you need paramedics? lol =-P

If you watch the full length video that I made about my new knot (the Alpha loop knot), you'll hear me tell my viewers that I have not tested to see whether or not this knot can be safely used for life support applications and, therefore, it should NOT be used as such. Additionally, even if this could be used for such applications, it would be a poor choice for a canopy anchor as it cannot be tied midline. So you would have to connect a second line to the loop in order to retrieve the canopy anchor. An Alpine Butterfly is a much better choice. Good question, though.

I would never use this for climbing trees. At most, I might use a tree as an anchor for this system and then rappel from it. As an experience tree climber, there are countless better ways to climb trees; this isn't even designed for that purpose. Just to be clear. While the majority of my climbing content focuses on tree climbing, this video was made with the intention of demonstrating the knot more than anything; as half of my content focuses on knots. But you're correct about this rappel method being very dangerous and I agree that learning from an instructor would be the safest, most ideal way to learn a method like the Equivocation hitch. Thanks for commenting.

What a nice and thoughtful comment! Thanks! I appreciate you saying that. That's honestly the ideal reaction I hope to get with most of my climbing videos. Unfortunately, there seem to be a lot of people who get distracted by my shaking. It doesn't really bother me that much at all, so I'm not entirely sure why it bothers so many others people. Anyways, thanks again! My channel has tons of videos like this one and, just so you know, I usually have a full length video version for all of my shorts; the latter is just the longer video chopped up down to under 60 seconds.

90% of the climbing for a rope walk is done using the legs. So, I'm not sure what you're referring to.

Thank you very much! I genuinely appreciate your kind comment! Yes, my neighbor is a really fun, energetic guy, who is extremely curious about my tree climbing passion.

@@Knot-orious absolutely brother I gotta give credit where credits do you are an animal that was impressive you were up that tree SAFELY in no time flat ...not your first rodeo or your last👍 ..keep kicking ash brotha

Yes, I've seen cavers climb exactly how you describe! For us tree climbers, we use our primary climbing devices for progress capture at the chest level which makes it really quick and easy for us to rapidly transition between ascending and descending using that device. The Frog system is really efficient as well, but it's a bit more physically demanding than the style of rope walking shown in this video, which I believe is easily the fastest, most physically efficient method among tree climbers for SRS/SRT. You'll definitely build some serious abdominal muscles doing it Froggy style lol You should definitely give the method in this video a try! I'm actually publishing a full length tutorial all about this style of climbing one week from now on my channel, so keep an eye out for it! =-D

I can see why you might see that in the first two loop knots, if my recollection of their tying method is accurate. Regardless, it's nice to see some of my oldest content still being watched. Thanks for commenting! =-D

@@Knot-orious i'm happy for the success of your channel and slightly fascinated by finding a knot on here (i tell a lie i found it on tx tool crib but he only shows a fast tie method) that isn't even featured in the Ashley Book of knots, only in the russian book Морские узлы, it's #97 on there apparently. in Mark Gobber's bowlines analysis it's described as one of the many types of anti-bowlines. pure speculation on my part, but i think it may have an advantage in particularly icy conditions (didn't have to think hard on this considering the name) compared to a slipped bowline.

@@markifi I believe you're referring to the Spear knot. ua-cam.com/video/z68Zzw9qW2U/v-deo.html Here's my full video on this knot. It's a bowline variant and not very well known/very obscure.

That's so awesome! That's exciting for me to hear and I appreciate you taking the time to let me know that my videos consistently teach you something new and interesting! That means I'm doing my job correctly! I had a feeling that most people will not have heard of the Double Dragon bend, and definitely will not have heard of the Double Strand Triple sheet bend variant. It always baffles me how some of the most strong, secure and/or useful knots often end up going completely unnoticed by most people, and are hardly ever used as a result. Part of my goal for this channel is to highlight as many of those knots as possible in hopes that a few of them will start to catch on and get the recognition they deserve! Anyways, thanks again! =-D

Yes, it absolutely does. However, the "knot," which is more specifically known as a "friction hitch," is tied using a piece of cordage that contains aramid fibers, which can withstand up to 900 degrees Fahrenheit without melting. Therefore, it is able to work flawlessly and repeatedly despite the high amount of friction, and in turn heat, that it experiences during operation. Great question.

@Knot-orious @Knot-orious I've worked with Aramid since 2005. Mainly in the aerospace industry. A friction hitch, like a prusik, is still a knot. The issue isn't the cordage used but with the rope. Most static and dynamic ropes are not super heat resistant. There are a couple of videos out there that show ropes melting through because of the heat from the friction of the descender. The incidences unfortunately ended fatally. That's why I asked that. Can this type of system be used for extremely high descents too? I ask because I like to climb and rappel. Thanks for the response. The info is super helpful.

I never said it wasn't a knot. I just said it was "more specifically known as a friction hitch." But, yes, a friction hitch is a type of knot. However, while most other types of knots will maintain their structure when tied alone, a friction hitch relies on its host rope (a second rope) to maintain its structural integrity. If you slip pretty much any friction hitch off of its host rope, it will collapse into a useless mess. Not saying that means it's not a knot; just pointing out something interesting about hitches. As for the types of hitch cords that I use, I absolutely use them for high descents, but it's ideal to take your time descending as heat will start to build up substantially after 50 feet or more of continuous rappelling. While this won't hurt my hitch cord, it will hurt my hands and potentially damage my polyester rope. This is only even possible at all because of the use of a rope wrench above the friction hitch, which eats up roughly half of all of the rope's friction between a bollard and a slic pin. Without the wrench (the device used with my hitch in the video), the hitch would almost certainly end up getting bound up and stuck on the rope, leaving the climber stuck in place.

Thanks! I really appreciate it! I love to educate people, so it doesn't typically bother me when people stop to ask questions. If someone is genuinely interested in an activity I'm quite talented at, then that's kind of flattering in a way.

If you're cutting a limb that is completely vertical, to where there's no obvious fall direction, then I'd suggest cutting a small face cut in the direction you want it to fall down, and then make a back cut from the opposite direction while pushing or pulling the limb in the desired fall direction. If you make this back cut quickly, and if the limb is small enough to help control its fall direction into the face cut with your hands, then the odds of getting your saw stuck are pretty small. If you're dealing with a really big branch, then you can do the same thing, except first climb up about 10 feet above where you want to make your cut and tie a rope to it. This will help you create enough leverage to direct the limb into the desired direction, and the face cut will help make the limb easier to tip once you finish the back cut. Am I making sense? I'm not exactly a seasoned pro with a saw, but that's how I would go about it.

@@Knot-orious thanks for commenting. I'm aware of basics... just id like to know more regarding saw being grabbed. In 40 yrs it hasnt to me... a neighbours red wood grabbed his saw, twice...

Getting your saw grabbed and pinched to where you can't remove it or run the chain is pretty rare so long as your cuts cause whatever you're cutting to drop to the ground or break off. When it does happen, you either need to use some rigging to pull the piece to the ground or use another saw to try and finish the cut, then remove the pinched bar once the piece finally drops. There's no real protocol for how to handle a seriously pinched bar to my knowledge. You sort of just have to figure it out haha

One helpful way to release a pinched bar is to hammer some wedges into your cut. That can sometimes help you get your bar out or allow you to run the chain and finish the cut so that the piece will drop.

@@Knot-orious yeah nah!! My issue is... when a log is falling, the falling piece grabs the saw... in the last moment of the cut. Rare. But nasty when it happens...

Thanks! I actually created and tested that "knot," more accurately known as a "friction hitch;" a type of knot used by arborists and tree climbers to ascend and descend on a variety of different rope systems. I call it the Calligraphy hitch and it's my go-to for when I climb! If you want to learn how to tie it, and try it out for yourself, then check out this video I made years ago showing how to do so properly! ua-cam.com/users/shorts9IPQJwCmpyE If you end up ever using it, please let me know what you think of it! =-D

Hellz to the naw! All set with the corps! I'm far too peaceful for battle! I'm just a humble tree climber! =-D

I have a Vitamin B deficiency that is resistant to normal supplements and, as a result, I shake pretty much all day every day to some extent. It honestly doesn't typically bother me all that much, and most days I don't even notice it...but other people always seem to notice. Especially on UA-cam and in my videos. Hoping to find a better way to solve this medical issue sooner than later. It distracts people from the point of my content and that's a bit frustrating. So yeah, that's why I shake. It's not really super serious; I'm not dying or anything lol And it's not adrenaline. Been climbing for a very long time at this point. Gotten well passed the "heights are scary" and "I don't trust my gear" phases at this point haha Thanks for at least asking me about it politely. A lot of people are pretty rude about it and either assume I'm just terrified/that I'm inexperienced or suggest that I'm drinking too much/using drugs. But I don't mind if people ask me respectfully. I'd be curious, too. You're probably the 40th person who asked about it just for this one video. But I also got way more views on this video than most. But yeah, I get why people are curious. It's all good.

Haha, I know, right? He ain't getting any of my expensive DMM XSRE accessory carabiners. That's for damn sure! Their the kind shown in this Short and they're like $30 a piece and rated for 4kN, which is A LOT for a "keychain" sized carabiner. One of them could hold four of me, no problem. I love those little carabiners! Anyways, glad you're enjoying my content! Have a lot going on these days, but I'm doing my best to keep the content flowing. The better someone gets at YouTubing the more complicated and more time consuming it is to film and edit each video. But I usually enjoy every step of the process. Thanks for your support! =-D

@@Knot-orious that’s insane brother! I can imagine it’s funny to cause “our” normal carabiners say purposely “not for climbing” 😂😂😂

You're very welcome!

Haha, that's pretty hilarious. Any tree climber worth mentioning knows that ladders and tree climbing don't mix very well. Seems like every time I see an epic fail on UA-cam, there's a ladder involved. A Poulan lol

I have a Vitamin B deficiency that's resistant to supplements and it causes me to shake all day every day. It typically doesn't really bother me, but a lot of people point it out to me; especially on UA-cam. It's not too serious, but it's not a good look. Hoping to find some way to finally resolve it. But yeah, that's why I shake.

I'm glad you enjoyed my tutorial! I greatly appreciate your positive feedback! Thanks a lot! =-D

Thanks so much! I really appreciate your comment! Just FYI, for the majority of my Shorts, I also have a long form (full length) versions in the videos section where there's often more information and nothing is cut out. A lot of people who watch my shorts often don't realize I make full videos too. So just letting you know if you don't already! Again, your comment means a lot! I definitely like to think I know what I'm doing! Best wishes! =-D

Well, hey, if I'm going to give someone who knows nothing about tree climbing a complete explanation and demonstration, I might as well do my best to look good while I'm doing it! haha To your second point, I've had bystanders comment on how much equipment I use to climb because, to them, it's quite a lot of hardware/software/devices/PPE and it seems overwhelming. But, as anyone who has climbed for awhile knows, although there are a lot of moving parts, it doesn't bother us and we're completely used to it. All of the equipment helps us to climb and/or do work swiftly, skillfully and with precision. Thanks for the comment!

Hey! Thanks! I'm glad that you enjoy my videos! That's wonderful to hear! I plan on making a video pretty soon all about how to set climb lines into trees because I have yet to make a video fully covering that relatively basic, but hugely important aspect of tree climbing. Thanks for the suggestion and for the support!