Відео

Watch this video to see how I currently connect my knee ascender. ua-cam.com/video/d0KANR_0xfY/v-deo.html Effectively, I connect it to my chest harness or a "chest harness" that I make using a 120cm sling. What kind of knee ascender did you buy? You may need to adjust the length of the bungee cord a bit. It should be completely stretched out when you stand up, but when you lift your leg it should bring the ascender all the way up, just as far as your knee travels. I like to set it so the ascender is just below my knee. That way I get more travel. And yes, my rope walking has improved greatly from this video. =-D

@Knot-orious I'll check this vid/ mine has got the same chest ascender, and a sling, but ain't got bungee, I'm gonna find one I'm steel waiting 4 my foot ascender but.........I still have not a device like akimbo or similar or rope wrench I go slowly, maybe I don't need a knee ascender by using a bungee as nec tether , I hate using too much equipment You know me brother

Yes, that is a Daisy Chain! It has served me well all of these years insofar as storing excess slack! The key is to start the chain from where you pull the slack out, not at the termination! You can see in this video what I mean by this. I even demonstrate how to tie it as you likely saw! Yes, this is a simple Daisy Chain! =-D Here's my video on the Daisy Chain in case you wanted one: ua-cam.com/video/nNygfKK0_o4/v-deo.html It's pretty old, but very informative.

Most definitely! Great comment!

Thank you so much! The SCAM is definitely a great redirect. It can also be used for mechanical advantage on a limb walk with a slightly different tying method, which is amazing. For anyone curious, here's my video for the SCAM redirect: ua-cam.com/video/l_kO7tnrmik/v-deo.html Thanks for commenting on one of my older videos! Great to hear your opinion!

@Knot-orious I use a Unicender for my climb devise, and SCAM is my go to redirect. I'm going to try the mechanical method next time I climb, looks better than a prusik and pulley I was using. Cheers from a florida tree worker!

@pyroninja90 Absolutely! Give it a try! Thanks again for commenting! Cheers from Massachusetts! 😊

Yes, the stopper knot on a Blake's can be placed farther out. I just have gotten into the habit of always placing split tail friction hitch tail stopper knots as close to the hitch as possible. After dressing and setting, the stopper knot does end up about an inch or so farther out anyways, so it's not actually jammed up against the Blake's when you start you climb. As for climbing on a Blake's WITHOUT a stopper knot...while this may work out just fine most of the time, I must say that it is always better to always have a stopper knot of some kind, regardless of how secure your hitch of choice might be. Thanks for your comment and for your perspectives and experiences. I genuinely appreciate them.

You have to be careful with the retrieval strand. Ideally, you should just throw it down whatever you're rappelling so that it can be reached at the bottom. Descending while holding the retrieval strand could potentially result in an accident if someone where to "death grip" it by accident during rappel. However, it's extremely difficult to pull this anchor out while it is loaded, and you don't want to lose your ability to pull the retrieval strand, so some situations may require that you clip it to your harness so it won't get away from you. Anyways, those are my thoughts. Thank you for sharing yours! =-D

¡Muchas gracias! ¡Definitivamente hago todo lo posible para ayudar a mantener seguros a otros escaladores! ¡Me alegra que valores mi enseñanza! ¡Agradezco tu comentario! ¡Gracias!

Hey brojangles! I'm delighted to hear that you "love" my videos! Always rewarding to get such positive feedback! Yes, that stupid, "awful" plastic sleeve that they put on splices are exceptionally annoying and a pain in the arse. I know why they do it, but it's a huge inconvenience for certain and makes very little sense! haha Glad you figured it out, too, and that your rope runs smoothly through your devices now! Thanks again for the comment! If I haven't told you already, I can always be reached privately at knotorious.info@gmail.com if you ever have questions or need advice, etc. Have a wonderful 2025!

Thanks! I appreciate you saying that! I just hardly ascend using MRS and was worried someone was going to give me a hard time or accuse me of being a poser. Pretty much nobody did, though haha Lesson learned. Thanks for the support! Many other videos about this topic are very brief and leave out important information. I'm happy that you would consider my video to be a "solid gold" reference for the new climber. That definitely was my goal and I genuinely appreciate your positive feedback. Comments like yours help to give me the extra drive I need to continue making videos like this one! Thanks again! Don't hesitate to let me know if you ever have any questions about anything whatsoever. =-D

Yes, pretty cool indeed! Thanks for commenting! =-D

@ yessir!!

I'm glad you enjoyed my video! Thank you for commenting! As for your question, the hitch cord I used in this video is a Teufelberger EpiCord 9.3mm diameter and 32" length. The length for this setup is too long, but it's all I had in my backpack at the time. The cord diameter is perfect for a 1/2" diameter rope, but I'd suggest using a shorter cord, such as maybe 30". Perhaps even 28" if you can splice it. If you have anymore questions, don't hesitate to ask. The EpiCord also comes in 10mm diameter, which would be another great choice. Both diameters are very supple and work well when tied into most any friction hitch. The 9.3mm diameter is going to bite into the rope harder, which is why I like it.

I take that back. At the beginning, when I use the Blizzard hitch, the length of 32" is probably just fine. Sorry, I have a lot of videos. Just rewatched to make sure. But if you use more compact hitches, a 30" might be better. But I love 32" cords because I can tie more complex hitches and thicker hitch cords eat up more length when tying a hitch. You often need more length in your eye to eye when using thicker cords because of this. Sorry for the confusion.

@@Knot-orious Thank you very much for your kind advice. It is very helpful. I ordered a Singing Lock Φ10mm 80cm prusik cord and a DMM triple attachment pulley 2 for the pulley. I am very much looking forward to receiving them. Once I get used to the hitch climber system, I will try the SRS rope wrench.

@@一人杣夫 That so great! I'm always happy to help! Let me know how everything goes! Do you own a rope wrench yet? Anyways, good luck and be safe up there! Start low and slow! Practice the motions on the ground before you take it at height. Have fun!

@@Knot-orious Thank you very much for your prompt reply. I don't have a rope wrench, so I am going to purchase one. Is the rope wrench ISC?

No need. It's well established that the Suislide is dangerous and untrustworthy. Hence why I made a video about it. Besides, this would be ultra low priority for HowNOT2 and kind of pointless since we can already safely assume what the outcome of the tests would be. It would be interesting to get some actual force measurements, though. I've tried reaching out to him in the past with ideas and he's always "booked with content for the next year." So yeah. Great thought, but probably won't ever happen.

@@verticalfeel Very nice! 🙂

Absolutely! A 3-hole pulley is your best option. No sense buying a 2-hole pulley when you can have 3 holes instead! This pulley will allow you to climb as you described, but also allow you to use it with a rope wrench someday should you decide to buy one. It also will allow you to use it in an MRS Hitch Climber setup as well! I strongly recommend the DMM hitch climber pulley. But the Omega Pacific OCTAVIA 3-hole pulley is another great, pretty option. Go look at it. It's a beautiful pulley! Keep in mind that tending a friction hitch with a chest harness, especially without a rope wrench, might be a bit challenging at first. But it absolutely can be done. I see you're checking out hitches that don't require rope wrenches, which is great! I'd start by practicing with the Sticht hitch since it's likely to be one of the easiest hitches to tend due to its relatively simple tying method and also because it's your best choice for hitches that work without a wrench. Hugs!

@Knot-orious I keep it all in mind, also knee ascender and different options / I saw a guy pulling up the system with a bungee cord and using a foot loop on left and foot ascender in right I'm looking 4the simplest option to rope walk, let's see! Thanks for your thoughts my friend, is very important to me 👏🏻👏🏻

Oh, I gotcha now. You want a simple, basic rope walk setup. You can make a knee ascender out of a chest ascender using some strong bungee cord and some accessory cord for a foot loop. I've made one before and they work great. I use a very special, homemade foot loop that ensures that my foot won't slip out of the loop while I'm climbing with my knee ascender. Check it out: ua-cam.com/video/5gSeuASAWHw/v-deo.html Just a suggestion!

Hey! Welcome to my channel! I'm happy you found me! Be sure to watch my newer content first as it's much better! But there's A LOT you can learn from my content! If you ever have ANY questions, don't hesitate to ask in a comment! I can also always be reached privately at knotorious.info@gmail.com where I will be more than happy to answer questions, give advice, share my experience, or just talk about knots, friction hitches or tree climbing! Let me know what you think of my channel! Once again, WELCOME! =-D I'm always here to help!

Glad you took the time to read that important message! That's exactly correct! Let me reiterate for anyone in the comments section who didn't read my warning... Tooth/cam devices like hand/knee ascenders and rope grabs can potentially de-sheath your rope at around ~4kN! Then you would just be hanging on the core; unless the teeth cut that too as you slide down abruptly! If you aren't high enough, you might even hit the ground. Once you've de-sheathed your rope, you won't be able to ascend on it and the sheath will be all bunched up below the device, making descending difficult as well. It's an all around dangerous situation to find yourself in! So that's why I say that your climbing device is the only part of a rope walking system that is truly meant for life support. If you fall on your climbing device, it will usually just slide down your rope a bit and not de-sheath it. Thanks for the comment, Phil! Good to see you in my comments! =-D

You're welcome! That's scary to think about! Glad you survived your error! Hopefully now you'll be more aware of it going forward! This was a very simple video with a very important message! Thanks for commenting! =-D

Thanks, Ryan! I appreciate it! Happy New Year!

@Knot-orious Happy New Year to you as well!

This could be used for decorative purposes, utility use, and light rigging. You don't want to load this knot too hard because I suspect it would be pretty difficult to untie. This knot would be great for securing something to a post for example, where perhaps you want a knot that is going to stand out from the crowd. I can't say that it can be used for life support applications, however, I believe it might be strong enough for it. But better to use knots that are well established to be safe than such use cases. Don't risk anyone's life to this knot until someone tests its strength.

@ should get @howknotto to test it 😜

I probably should. It would probably be pretty low priority for him, though.

@ I did my own wee body weight test, without a stopper knot, I think it would actually slip on a proper load test!

@@elchevinit You really think so? I've loaded it with my 230lbs and I didn't see anything slip. But that hardly means it won't with more force. The way it's tied just makes me think it's pretty secure. But I'm just speculating.

Thank you very much! Glad you liked it! =-D

You're so very welcome! Thanks for thanking me! Happy you enjoyed my video!

Hey John! Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for stopping by to leave a comment and for sharing those two other applications for the term "suislide" with my community! As for the second option you listed, I have always known that situation to be referred to as a "death grip," where your body instinctively might collapse a friction hitch harder during a descent while in a panic versus letting go like you should. This "death grip" can also be applied to mechanical devices, as well as other situations such as when rigging. While rigging, a ground guy might lose control of a load and instinctively grab onto the rope harder, sending them flying, or causing serious rope burn, for example. Thanks again! =-D

@Knot-orious cool. I didn't know the "death grip".

The tauteline hitch was called that cause you tie two loops up or down the rope then two more in the opposite direction so some guys would tie it two up and one down leaving one loop off and that way is referred to the suislide knot cause it less friction and less control cause it missing a loop and would fail or you go so fast down the rope you loose control I learned on this knot when I first started tree work on a closed system

Ideally, the Tautline hitch should effectively resemble a four-to-six wrap prusik that is loaded by the standing end and which has a stopper knot on the working end. I understand what you're saying about how tying the wraps in the incorrect direction could lead to decreased performance for the hitch. Thanks for your insights! I personally would use a Blake's over a Tautline any day of the week. A fifth wrap can always be added to a Blake's to increase its security. But it has always performed beautifully for me with just four wraps. Tying a Tautline as you describe certainly does sound dangerous and it's understandable that it would be deemed a "suislide knot." When tied correctly, the only difference betwen a prusik and a Tautline is that the Tautline is loaded by only one strand and the Prusik is loaded by both strands, typically in basket, such as with a loop.

Thank you! Much appreciated!

This video is very old. Here's my new video for this knot. Has the two same methods, but updated discussion. ua-cam.com/video/y_oGpA1gVS4/v-deo.html As for your question, just use the same tying method and tie two double loop Alpine Butterflies next to one another. You can feed slack through one of the knots until they are perfectly side by side. Is that what you're asking? If I understand you correctly, there's no other way to accomplish this. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

@@Knot-orious thank you! yes that was exavtly what i meant but its a bit challenging so i was hoping for an alternative haha. thank you for your time!

@@a1esandra You're welcome! Yeah, it'll take a bit of time and finessing, but you'll get them side by side faster than you probably think. =-D

What I usually do is dress and set my hitches tightly enough so that they grab (but not too tight) and then repeatedly tend and break the hitch until it tends smoothly. Sometimes you just need to move it up and down the rope a few times until it settles into how you want it to be. I only need to do this a few times usually, but try doing this about 10 times tending and 10 times breaking and see if it loosens up but still grab. Don't dress and set too much. You'll have to find a balancing point and you'll soon get used to tying it correctly. This is one of my favorite hitches and I've used it with a variety of different hitch cords, so I know it works. What length, type and diameter hitch cord are you using on what diameter rope? Maybe your hitch cord is too aggressive. When you tend a hitch wtih a pulley, there will always be SOME friction, but it shouldn't be so much that it's difficult or impossible to tend with one hand.

@@Knot-orious I'm using a 11.5 mm double braid rope, tried with both 10mm 80cm hitch cord and a 8mm 70cm hitch cord, seems to me the 8mm one is more aggressive, which is counter intuitive to me as there's less surface area than with a 10mm

That's exactly why an 8mm is more aggressive. Because it focuses the forces onto a more concentrated area on the rope due it having less surface area. It does seem a bit more counterintuitive, but hopefully this makes sense. Both of those hitch cords should work with that rope. A 9mm cord would be ideal, but you can certainly use what you have. If you're interested in buying a 9mm, I'd recommend the Sterling RIT Response 9mm. It's my favorite hitch cord of all time. I think you just need to get used to dressing and setting properly. Give my advice about tending and breaking the hitch several times to see if it loosens it up. It always does for me.

Thank about it this way. If you have soccer/football cleats, they have less surface contact with the ground, but they grab better than regular sneakers because they can take your weight and concentrate it on smaller areas of the ground with the cleats. If you compare it to regular sneakers, which have flat soles and much more surface contact, they aren't going to grab the ground as well as soccer/footbal cleats. The same applies to hitch cords.

@@Knot-orious thanks, will give it a go!

That's great! I'm so happy to hear that you're using my Blizzard friction hitch! It's definitely one of my best. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure you're going to need a rope wrench for this one. But I've also never tried it without out! You could definitely ascend without any issues, but it MIGHT bind up if you try to descend without a wrench. But you should give it a try, just do it very low to the ground. Or climb with two systems. That way, if the Blizzard hitch binds, you can still descend on your second system. It would make for some new and interesting testing for this hitch! I have a feelings that it MIGHT work without a wrench, but it was designed for use with one so I really don't know! If you want to climb without a wrench, you may want to give the Sticht hitch a try! You'll just need a hitch cord and a suitable sized ring! Hugs, brother! Thanks for commenting!

@Knot-orious 👏🏻👏🏻💪🏻 thank you

@verticalfeel You're very welcome! Let me know how it goes! 😊

The difference between a Michoacan and a Petroacan is that the latter is in the opposite chirality. In other words, think about it this way: Hold your hands out. If the Michoacan is like your left hand, then the Petroacan is like your right hand. Chirality in a knot is defined as "a knot that is not equivalent to its mirror image." I hope this helps! I'm going to pin this comment so that everyone can see this excellent question!

No, this is just a one legged friction hitch that you can tie using an eye to eye. It can also be tied using a split tail. The accessory carabiner is just meant to ensure that the leg doesn't creep through the knot. It's pretty pointless to be honest. The sewn eye would never be able to get through that hitch. I just did it for fun. You DO NOT connect your check harness to the hitch, but I suppose you could if you needed a way to ascend it. I would just be concerned about what might happen if you fell. It could possibly cause the hitch to collapse or slide down. So I wouldn't recommend it. Great question, though!

You're so very welcome! I'm obsessed wtih hitch cords, hitches, knots, and tree climbing! Glad you enjoyed this video! The Sterling 9mm RIT is easily my favorite hitch cord. My second favorite is the 9.3mm Teufelberger EpiCord. The 10mm is great too. But don't buy the 8mm. The cover is WAY too tight. I also love the 8mm Yale Bee-Line and I REALLY love the 8mm Yale Veritas (can only buy at TreeSuff.com). I think the Ocean are pretty good. Armorprus is overpriced and not my favorite. But nothing beats a good Sterling RIT 9mm. Make sure you looke for the RIT Response. It's the 9mm one. Sometimes they call it that, sometimes they don't. Just look for 9mm, because they make an 8mm too that sucks hard. I love very supple hitch cords. I want to be tying my hitches with a freaking wire-y, not-so-flexible hitch cord. I want my cords to be supple out of the box. One hitch cord that is actually quite good is the Teufelberger HRC 8mm. It doesn't arrive super supple, but it becomes nice and supple quickly and runs so smoothly.

I do not have a video for that. Yes, I basically just used a double overhand (barrel knot) on both end for both. More recently, I did it differently. I changed out the green bridge for an orange rope that I had and now have that with the pink one. The way I did it this time is by tying one one as just described and, with the other, I tied the barrel knot around the other bridge (outside of the D ring plate) on both ends so that the knots are on top of one another versus side my side. You can see what I mean in this video if you look closely: ua-cam.com/video/d0KANR_0xfY/v-deo.html You can see that they are stacked versus side by side. This is because I was concerned about the bulky stopper knots causing the rope to cut into the D ring plates at an angle, which can be dangerous. You'll see a few other climbers use this technique as well. I hope this helps. If you need me to send you some pictures, I can be reached at knotorious.info@gmail.com

Я не совсем понимаю, что вы имеете в виду под своим комментарием. Возможно, оно потерялось при переводе! В любом случае, спасибо за комментарий!

That sounds like a really unique and interesting rope walking setup! I'd love to see a video of you setting this up and climbing this way! Thanks for sharing you experience and technique! I really appreciate it!

Seriously, though. You should make a video showing this getting setup and send it to me privately at knotorious.info@gmail.com after uploading it to UA-cam. You can just keep the video private if you want. Just literally select the "private" settings for visibility. Or you can share it with the world and select "public." Either way, I just want to see what you're talking about. Rope walking hands free? That sounds so cool and I'd love to learn this so I can make a video about it. I'll give you credit of course. Lemme know or hit me up if you have another way you'd rather do this. Thanks. ~Knotorious

Thanks! This is actually just one of the 85+ different, unique and original friction hitches that I've made Shorts and long form videos for on my channel! So be sure to check them all out and see if you find one or more that you want to try! As for this particular hitch's applications, it can be used with a rope wrench for SRS, with a hitch climber setup for MRS, for an adjustable lanyard with a slack tending pulley, as a third hand with a Figure 8 descender (below the 8), for progress capture in a hauling system with mechanical advantage, and for use with rigging systems. These are just some of the many examples and possible use cases! Thanks for commenting and for being a public subscriber for 5+ months! If you have anymore questions, please don't hesitate to ask!

I incorporated a ring because, for us tree climbers, it's a great way to add a ring to a canopy anchor if you forgot to string it through the rope before pulling it over your tie in point. Why would you be worried about abrasion? The best way to form a safe connection is by putting hardware onto software, by connecting softwares with hardware. A ring isn't going to abrade a doubled loop as easily as a single loop either. No systems are perfect. I use rings on software all the time for life support applications. Never had an issue. Thanks for commenting!

@@Knot-orious coming at this from the perspective of a rope soloist, double strands are massively important for abrasion control Not so much for hard goods on soft goods, but for rope against a rock or a tree My anchor almost always consists of 4 strands per leg going to my master point that has a super 8 tied for any abrasion against the rock If I was fixing to a tree I'd use a bowline on a bight to have 2 strands around the tree I guess viewing through the lens of climbing made me not see as much use for it

There honestly really ISN'T much real practical use for this knot. But I still do use it from time to time. But I still appreicate knots that don't necessarily see much practical use, don't have many real world applications, and which are relatively obscure because I appreciate topology in general and I love learning new variations and seeing new interesting knot structures. As a tree climber, talking to a rope soloist, we may have different perspectives on how useful or useless this knot may be and the correct or incorrect ways with which it can be applied. And that's totally okay! I respect your opinion and I'm sure you have a lot of experience. Certainly sounds like you aren't a poser haha I am very familiar with the rock climbing and alpine world and its protocols for anchors, so I understand what you're telling me. Double strands are definitely important for abrasion control and, redundancy in general, should be used whenever possible unless the risk being taking is calculated and low. In tree climbing we ascend on anchors (tree limbs) that we don't fully know the strength of and do so often without redundancy. Once we reach a spot we want to work, we'll put our lanyard on (redundancy). Some climbers will ascend with multiple systems, but I only will do this after I get up in the canopy. Then i'll build an MRS on top of my SRS (just an example) and also have my lanyard for work positioning.

You're right. I didn't mention how it locks carabiners into place. That is definitely a huge upside to this knot! Thanks for sharing this! I actually thought of this while editing, but didn't want to shoot another segment haha I did actually mention how little rope it uses compared to other termination knots in the beginning somewhere. Thanks for commenting!

Isn't she?! Gorgeous knot. Thanks for commenting!

You're so very welcome! I hope this was helpful! This results in the same knot as the "bowline on a bight," except it's tied in a way that allows for the installation of fixed hardware and uses the end of the rope to tie the knot versus a bight. You may already know this, but I'm just blabbing! haha

That's a great way to do it! The VT is probably one of the few friction hitches suited for "above the 8" use. Thanks for commenting!