How to splice an eye to eye prusik in Teufelberger HRC hitch cord
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- This video includes step-by-step instructions for splicing an eye to eye prusik in 5/16" HRC hitch cord. I use locking Brummel splices to create the eyes in the ends of the hitch cord. I also show how to whiplock the ends of the cover.
Once again Eric proves beyond a doubt that he is in fact the #1 rope splice instructor this side of the west coast! 😃
Thank you Eric for teaching us.
Your awesome! 🌟💫✨👍👏
I climb cell towers for a living. I can’t always get the length of lanyards that I need. I was able to make my own thanks to Eric. He is a good teacher.
Great video, very educational!
Happy new year, Eric 👍
Same to you Phil!
Your videos are just perfect, it´s like having personal teacher :) I already spliced the HRC, Tachyon and used whiplock guided by your videos. Many thanks from Czech republic!
PS: I´m not sure if you have right fid lenght in centimeters in 3:14 (6-5/8 inch = 16 cm)
Thank you for pointing out the error in the metric measurement for a 5/16" fid. It should be 16.8 cm.
Hey Eric, I have a question, can. I subtract 2” from the dimensions from the 28” specifications to get a 26” eye to eye?
Happy new year Eric! 🇨🇦🇺🇸4ever
Same to you Phil!
😮👌👌👌
Awesome video! Just curios, what’s the difference between this style and a sewn eye prusik?
Hello Mark. The main difference is that a sewn eye is done with an industrial sewing machine whereas a splice is done by interlocking and overlapping the strands of the rope to form the eye. A sewn eye is a bit more bulky whereas a spliced eye prusik is a bit stiffer because the core is doubled back and buried inside the cover . A spliced eye takes a lot longer to make, whereas a sewn eye takes just a few minutes to make. Both types are very strong. Since most people do not have an industrial sewing machine, a spliced eye is the only alternative unless you want to pay somebody to make it for you.
Hi Eric, does it matter if it’s water or oil based polyurethane? 🇨🇦🇺🇸
I have used both and I don't think it matters. Strength of ropes made from nylon, polyester, and dynema is not much effected by oils. It is acids and UV rays that can really damage these materials.
when doing whip lock do you ever do the burn and press method instead of cut cutting it?
on my rigging ropes, i cover the whipping with clear gorilla glue, its great stuff it doesnt foam it stays clear and i havent had an issue with any one my whippings or seizes since i started doing it.
I have not tried the burn and press method, but I suspect it would be fine. As for the Gorilla Glue solution I suspect it would work, but might be more likely to wear off over time?
Very informative and well put together video thank you.
The only questions I have are the size of shrink tubing, (I'm assuming it's slides over the eye at the end) and where to purchase it thank you once again awsome video
I use 1/2" tubing that I get from Elecdirect.com or Buyheatshrink.com. I use the 3:1 adhesive thin wall variety. It is easier if you slide it onto the cord before you do the whiplock and then slide it over the whiplock after the whiplock is done. If you use a heavier whipping twine for the whiplock you may have to use 3/4" diameter tubing in order to make it fit over the whipping.
@@ericforsman7787 thank you
how do you like hrc? how does it hold up? have you glazed it at all? i have been eye balling it. i bought to much beeline, but once i get through that hrc is high on my list as well as samson's bail out. im going for hitch cord that is 100% fancy thread through in through.
HRC is really nice stuff. I have not noticed any glazing issues but I am not doing any screamers down the rope, so it has not been an issue.
gracias
De nada Tagarro!
Do you have plans for another splicing video next week? I noticed they are coming out weekly!
Nothing planned for now.
i have been thinking about which way the rope goes for the brummel if one way would be stronger. so how you did it, the part that ends up burried goes through the standing end and then the standing end goes through the working end. i wonder if doing it backwards if it would be stronger. i think it would because the way you did it the burried tail that the standing end goes through has to hold the strenght of the eye and there is just the length of the taper holding it in place. i hope this makes since, how it does in my mind to convey what i mean. if you understand what i wrote please let me know what you think. thank you
I don't know. This is the way I learned it and I have never tried testing other versions. I do it the same way every time and it tests very strong, so I stick with it. But good question!
Can you make same eye to eye tapered (clean) prusik cord with core dependent rope, but with cover? On the eye, please
Hey Eric can you make a video on how to brummel splice both ends on a pinto pulley?
With beeline prusik cord
Are you talking about splicing an eye around the metal spacer that fits between the sides of the Pinto pulley? You would do that the same way as in the video except that you would adjust the size of the eye so that it fits tightly around the spacer. If you have enough skill to do an eye-and-eye prusik you should be able to figure that out pretty easily.
@@ericforsman7787 sorry no I’m talking about splicing an eye to each side of the pulley. I’ve heard you have to do a reweave brummel splice
@@MrViking10000 Ahh, now I see. I have not done that one before so I can't be of much help. If you figure it out, let me know.
@@ericforsman7787 sounds good thank you!
What chemical do you apply at the end of the splice?
You can use either water-based or oil-based polyurathane.
Tank men, exelent work