I thought it was just a coincidence that when I tapped this box mine started working...until I stumbled upon this video. I cant thank you enough. I wired my new R7284U-1004 EXACTLY like you show and it worked perfect. Thank you Thank you.
Found this video very helpful. Got my old oil furnace up and running with a new controller. Your detailed explanation took the anxiety out of the process. Whew!
Putting one of these in an identical Beckett unit tommorow this vid really helped out it will be a first for me thumbs up, i did know about the trick to wrappin on the top i figured that one out one day it wasnt lighting properly at the customers place and i tapped on it a few times and boom off she went lol . Thx again
I don't quite get your explanation of the L1 and the Limit lines. My old controller had no Limit, so I don't know where to run the line to connect the new Limit to. Is it the same line as the L1, connected by a nut?
Im trying to do exactly what you did in your video but can you clarify for me what needs to be done with the L1 and Limit terminals on the new controller? My old controller had a wire going to the L1 terminal but didnt have a terminal for the Limit. Thank you
What now about the high limit line. Where do I wire it? I don’t hav that box you showed but I have that primary control as a replacement. It’s dead winter with 8 inches of snow coming, I need to know 😛
Very helpful video, but was wondering how you came to the conclusion on settings that for your set-up there would be no ( spark in on delay). Like you I also have a interrupted ignition system vs intermittent so I know thats means no spark during run. But am confused about this ignition spark during the valve on delay timing question. Any insight you have on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Great video Michael. Replacing R7184B with R7284U1004 on a Williamson oil furnace. Interrupted ignition, so shouldn't spark during running be set to no? Thanks in advance Michael.
Hello alittle while ago our furnace ran out of oil since then I can press the I button and the furnace will run but when it reaches temperature the furnace fires a couple of times then goes into hard lockout I'm not sure where to go after that hope you can help.
This was incredibly helpful. When I press i, the first reading is “TT Open” and below that it’s “Limit Closed” What does that mean? Also, my OHMS is averaging 250. I see yours is about 170. What’s a good number? I read some where that is should be between 300 and 800. THANKS
Hi, I got a question. I just replaced the old r7184b with new r7284 , and I did the wiring adding hot to line L1, but looking at your video it's showing the resistance of~ 150 ohms . But my unit is running on ~240 ohms resistancy . Is it something normal or something wrong with my burner? Thank you so much for your help.
Think I’m having the same issue. It will fire up after I hit reset, run for about 10 minutes and stop, you hear the clicking and when it starts back up it doesn’t fore the second time and goes right back to flashing green light
When wiring this or any control WAIT and make sure the safety works!!! Had a weekend warrior change this control burner did not shut down and melted all the solder joints up to 6 feet away from the boiler.
I shifted from R7284B to R7284 and I keep getting the screen on standby is no turning on even when the thermostat calling for het on my oil furnace. Please help, I have my house freeze I basically use the same wiring from the old one to the new one. I have a Nest thermostat connected with wiring withe on W1 and Red on R1
I recently followed your video and changed my controller. went smoothly. I do have one issue, error check Cad Cell, I got a new one and it still says check Cad Cell. I now bought a whole new plug with wires and am going to try that. Is there anything else it could be. It is firing up but then shutting off and says lock out on screen. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.....George
Something is going on with mine, noticed 2 days agoit had a weak start would attempt to fire up 3 times before finally running and today now just gives up after the first 10 sec
Let me know how to send you a picture of my 7184b that has two wires on L1 which are black and a red one which looks like it's going to the limit switch.
@@michaelkirschner8274 Sure did! It was a bad resistor beneath the the terminal strip. It got hot enough to melt the solder joints so I just refreshed them with new solder. I now have Beckett's new version of that assembly that's been redesigned without that resistor in the circuit. It will be installed at the first sign of the same symptoms. It's exactly the same part number as the old version.
hello poster n viewer ,my box sounds like it is a relay buzzing and clicking in close open position another words its opening and closing the contact point causing spark and burning out ,i weanna open it up and replace the relay with a high end one
I thought it was just a coincidence that when I tapped this box mine started working...until I stumbled upon this video. I cant thank you enough. I wired my new R7284U-1004 EXACTLY like you show and it worked perfect. Thank you Thank you.
Exactly why mine wasn't working after replacing. Great video, Thanks!!
Found this video very helpful. Got my old oil furnace up and running with a new controller. Your detailed explanation took the anxiety out of the process. Whew!
Thanks for watching my video
This was so helpful I would I have never figured out that I needed to run another hot line. Everything seems to be running for me now. Thanks!
Putting one of these in an identical Beckett unit tommorow this vid really helped out it will be a first for me thumbs up, i did know about the trick to wrappin on the top i figured that one out one day it wasnt lighting properly at the customers place and i tapped on it a few times and boom off she went lol . Thx again
Yoooooo I swear I tried everything but knocking on it and it worked!!! 😂😂😂 thank you
Thank you, Thank you. You saved me a lot of heart ache.
Totally appreciated this video. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
I don't quite get your explanation of the L1 and the Limit lines. My old controller had no Limit, so I don't know where to run the line to connect the new Limit to. Is it the same line as the L1, connected by a nut?
Im trying to do exactly what you did in your video but can you clarify for me what needs to be done with the L1 and Limit terminals on the new controller? My old controller had a wire going to the L1 terminal but didnt have a terminal for the Limit. Thank you
I figured it out, you just need to tap into the L1 wire and run that new wire to the Limit terminal.
What now about the high limit line. Where do I wire it? I don’t hav that box you showed but I have that primary control as a replacement. It’s dead winter with 8 inches of snow coming, I need to know 😛
Very helpful video, but was wondering how you came to the conclusion on settings that for your set-up there would be no ( spark in on delay). Like you I also have a interrupted ignition system vs intermittent so I know thats means no spark during run. But am confused about this ignition spark during the valve on delay timing question. Any insight you have on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I never understood why they told me it's to try and burn in spent fuel in the burner box
Great video Michael. Replacing R7184B with R7284U1004 on a Williamson oil furnace. Interrupted ignition, so shouldn't spark during running be set to no? Thanks in advance Michael.
spark on is to keep unburnt fuel from causing a back flash incase of short cycle
Your info helps
Hello alittle while ago our furnace ran out of oil since then I can press the I button and the furnace will run but when it reaches temperature the furnace fires a couple of times then goes into hard lockout I'm not sure where to go after that hope you can help.
Great Video , Thanks
You are welcome!
This was incredibly helpful. When I press i, the first reading is “TT Open” and below that it’s “Limit Closed” What does that mean? Also, my OHMS is averaging 250. I see yours is about 170. What’s a good number? I read some where that is should be between 300 and 800. THANKS
It really depends on flame brightness
And conditions inside the fire box
Hi, I got a question. I just replaced the old r7184b with new r7284 , and I did the wiring adding hot to line L1, but looking at your video it's showing the resistance of~ 150 ohms .
But my unit is running on ~240 ohms resistancy . Is it something normal or something wrong with my burner?
Thank you so much for your help.
Think I’m having the same issue. It will fire up after I hit reset, run for about 10 minutes and stop, you hear the clicking and when it starts back up it doesn’t fore the second time and goes right back to flashing green light
Do you know why it call for heat when i have the thermostat off?
When wiring this or any control WAIT and make sure the safety works!!! Had a weekend warrior change this control burner did not shut down and melted all the solder joints up to 6 feet away from the boiler.
I have an R 7184p...why so expensive to replace? Can I use the 7284 as well?
I shifted from R7284B to R7284 and I keep getting the screen on standby is no turning on even when the thermostat calling for het on my oil furnace. Please help, I have my house freeze
I basically use the same wiring from the old one to the new one. I have a Nest thermostat connected with wiring withe on W1 and Red on R1
You need to run a common hot to keep the controller powered up
@@michaelkirschner8274 thanks ! Also I had to replace the nozzle , to get it running.
Michael Kirschner where exactly can I get this hot from? I’m trying to do the same replacement as you, also my boiler looks exactly like yours buddy.
Got a question I watch your video ...I replaced mine but I notice your ohms were like 150 200 when it lit mine are 1400 is something wrong
Depends on what ohm rating your cad cell is
The first time in history the boy was told to “turn the thermometer up”
I recently followed your video and changed my controller. went smoothly. I do have one issue, error check Cad Cell, I got a new one and it still says check Cad Cell. I now bought a whole new plug with wires and am going to try that. Is there anything else it could be. It is firing up but then shutting off and says lock out on screen. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.....George
I guess the Cad Cell socket went bad. Getting this controller with the diagnostic screen already paid for itself. Got Heat Yeah!
You might have to change the cad cell ohms in the settings menu
That is awesome glad you got to going good job 👍
How to wire a Field controls CK-63 control box to a Beckett Genisys 7505P primary control
How do I get it off lock out call for service when I only ran out of fuel?? Help me getting cold
Did you figure it out?
Hold down i button for 45 seconds
Something is going on with mine, noticed 2 days agoit had a weak start would attempt to fire up 3 times before finally running and today now just gives up after the first 10 sec
Let me know how to send you a picture of my 7184b that has two wires on L1 which are black and a red one which looks like it's going to the limit switch.
Did you get it figured out?
@@michaelkirschner8274 Sure did! It was a bad resistor beneath the the terminal strip. It got hot enough to melt the solder joints so I just refreshed them with new solder. I now have Beckett's new version of that assembly that's been redesigned without that resistor in the circuit. It will be installed at the first sign of the same symptoms. It's exactly the same part number as the old version.
My ohms are in the 3/4s ?
hello poster n viewer ,my box sounds like it is a relay buzzing and clicking in close open position another words its opening and closing the contact point causing spark and burning out ,i weanna open it up and replace the relay with a high end one
Did you do this... how'd it go?
Why would my blower motor not run
Start cap could be bad
Or t the thrmo switch is bad
What if it says hard lock out?
Press and hold reset (the i button) until it takes you out of restricted mode. Some are 15 seconds and some can take up to 45 seconds
Everyone’s furnace is wired different