An alternate title for this video: How to Get as Much Motion Blur as Possible in Your Videos Using ND Filters While Avoiding Ghosting and Jitter, Keeping Stabilization On, and not Needing a Gimbal. That title is way too long but sharing it for additional clarity of the aim of this video 😃
i have bought ND/PL of FREEWELL for my Gopro (Im a Novice). Can you do a video guide how to ROTATE the RING of ND/PL? Im still confuse how to use it. Thank 4 your video, best!
LOL not my intention with this video, but I can see that. I do use 24fps at times on my action cameras but usually only when I am talking to the camera.
This is incredible! I hope you do this same test on the Action 5, since you can crank the ISO with less noise on that camera. I’m definitely going to try this on my GoPro 12. You have been instrumental and helping me get better videos with that camera. I really love it in the right light.
Hey, great video! Really gave an nice alternative and I will definitely give it a try. Perhaps you can give some recommendations. If in the future I would choose to use gimbal, do you recommend any specific one. Or do you suggest then switching to pherhaps the dji osmo cameras?
Wow! just yesterday I stumbled across your channel cuz I bought Freewell Bright Day 4 Pack for GoPro 12 and their QR-linked video was overly simplistic, not to say lazy ("line up these two white marks and you're good"). And here we have such a great content! (at such a perfect time) Thank you so much!
Also, your video on night lapses inspired me to try my own and the very first attempt looks not ugly =) Just letting you know, that your work are much appreciated and gives others lots of knowledge and inspiration! Many thanks!
is it important to follow the 180° (or in this instance 90°) shutter rule? Does it create a bad look when using an uneven degree shutter for example 60fps on 1/200 shutter and not 1/240s?
Oh.. almost forgot.. i just updates my Osmo action 5 pro yesterday (29/11) and they actually fixed some stabilization jittering. I Only tested on the basic rocksteady and didn’t tried rocksteady+ but I’m ALMOST happy with the results
very nice explain and tip!the settings -2 sharpness and -1 noise reduction you use it at the day and the night or only the day?also if i have 50fps and 100 shutter and move very slowly(step by step) i will have the ghosting or jittering effect?also why you use shutter 240?i have seen that the action 4 must be at least 200...(40 more frames i think make the difference to have the blur from 180 rule😀)thanks!
Yes I use those sharpness and noise reduction settings during the day and in low light. With 50fps and 1/100 shutter if you move slowly and “glide” with your movement you might be okay without much jitter or ghosting. At least 1/200 is important for the shutter, but I like 1/240 because it is exactly four times 60 and equals a 90-degree shutter angle.
And how does the stabilization behave with the shutter speed at 1/50 or 1/60 when post-processing in Gyroflow if you record the video without internal stabilization? Thank you very much for the informative video!
Great question! I have found this to be hit or miss with Gyroflow stabilizing later on with a shutter speed at 1/50 or 1/60 and stabilization off. If in good lighting during the day, Gyroflow will often work okay. If the footage was filmed in lower light, the results are not always so good. In addition, if the camera was mounted on something like a drone where it’s somewhat smoother than handheld, the results are usually better in Gyroflow vs handheld footage. So the results aren’t consistent under this scenario but it is possible to get good results.
Very in depth resource here. Could you please share with me the video explaining the QR codes needed to set the GoPro shutter speed ranges? I never saw a link for that. Thank you!
Great question! I prefer the 50fps with 1/200 shutter speed combo because the fps and shutter speed are closer together and I think it looks smoother and better. As far as which to export to, it will likely look similar with either export. There will of course be frames that are not needed when 50 is exported as 25 but the effect should still be there.
Now I understand why my ace pro did a pretty good video on my motorbike with ND filter, and why it was kinda bad during mountain biking. For that, the auto setting made a way better video, in 4k and 30 fps.
I may be wrong.. but I don’t think the problem is the shutter speed it self but the actual blur it produces, I’ll have to test it but I believe the same stabilization you produced using 60/240 ratio could be applied to 24/96 and 30/120.. again, I’m not sure and we could test it
You could do that as well. I find that effect to be great in footage that is overly sharp but sometimes the motion blur doesn’t feel as natural when applying that effect depending upon what is happening in the scene. So it’s certainly useful for boosting the motion blur.
I will try this to record my moto trips :) I have a DJI OM4 and on the last recordings, with no ND filters, set to 4K 30 FPS and auto with a shutter speed of 30 ~max and ISO 100-800 I get every now and then small image shifts. Either translation wise or rotation wise. I now it's from the EIS because in the videos with RS off, everything is ok. Conditions where bright but a lot of going under trees (nice curvey forest road :) ) Is it possible that because of the low end of the SS set to 30, the EIS was causing those shifts?
Great video! Question: why can’t you use 180 rule and put ND on (depending on light) so EV goes to 0.0 or 0.3? Note: osmo is my first action cam. I’ve owned and used Sony z90, cannon xf 300, and Sony ZV-E1
I observed very shaky footage on my new OA5 on a motorbike, set at 1/50 and 25fps with an ND16. Mind you, the camera was on my bars, not my helmet. Maybe using the ND32 instead to reduce light would help? I did try your 1/240 at 60fps method and the footage looks great, however there’s not enough motion blur for my liking.
Anything below a shutter speed of 1/200 regardless of the ND filter being used is going to have jitter and ghosting with RockSteady turned on. This is because RockSteady is a type of EIS and it needs sharp enough frames to work properly. That is why I propose the 1/240 with 60FPS method in this video as a way to prevent that but the trade off is less motion blur. I think most will prefer the trade off of less motion blur over completely unusable footage with jitter and ghosting though. It’s a limitation of action cameras using EIS. There is no perfect solution unfortunately.
Hi.. I make some motorcycle videos too… there is another way.. I didn’t tried yet but I’ll very soon. Disable stabilization in camera and use Gyro Flow to estabilize in post.. there’s plenty of tutorials on YT showing how to use. I’ll give a try as soon as I can
What is a good vlogging setting for this to still have good stabilization but also bright enough clips? For example with vlogging you constantly go indoor and outdoor, and adjusting the setting all the time is not handy
60 FPS at 240 shutter speed gives you a 90 degree shutter angle. That's half the motion blur of the 180 degree shutter angle standard. Do you still find that gives you enough motion blur?
Great question. I find that the motion blur is great, especially if moving fairly fast on something such as a bike, skateboard, car, etc. If just walking or moving slowly, the motion won't feel quite as intense unless the camera is placed pretty close to the surface where the motion is occurring.
@@GreatDayForAHike Thanks for the video, and comment from gregg. I just purchased my first action cam, the dji-4, but have some experience with the pocket camera and drones. I was NOT aware of the stabilization issue with motion blur and EIS systems until I got this action camera, and of course ND filters... your video is the best I have seen so far at explaining the issues and set-ups!! and I film my pocket and drones at 60 on 30 timeline typically as well. my only question: I just set up all mt presets on the action 4 with default 60/200 frame/shutter. (when possible of course) I know that 240 is divisible by 60, but does that really matter that much? wouldn't 200 still give me stable footage, with max motion blur? or do you recommend 240 min for stabilization? at which point I can't imagine much motion blur, unless I take it to a nascar race or something.....
You know more than most about how to maximize the GoPro. I’ve got some questions regarding the use of the hero12 with a fpv drone. Is there a way I can personally message you ?
Another great content! I’ve been using a gimbal on my Ace Pro and it sucks lugging it around. Now I don’t have to deal with that. I did notice though that the clarity zoom feature of the Ace Pro was disabled with these settings.
I don't know why, but 24 FPS with a 96 shutter speed feels much more natural to me. I've done all the possible tests, and 24 FPS is more natural with any shutter speed compared to 60 FPS/240, but maybe I'm just losing it. The stabilization isn't top-notch, but it works even with 96. On the other hand, I like the flexibility of 60 FPS since I can slow it down to 40% or 80%.
You could do 1/480 if you'd like, but the great thing about a 120 FPS is you can use the 180 degree shutter angle setting and have a shutter speed of 1/240 and still have Hypersmooth work properly.
@@GreatDayForAHike so do you feel turning the de noise stuff all the way off and using an third party de noise yields the best image ? And if so , which de noise program do you use ?
I bought Go Pro 12, but I am not so sure if it's suitable for videos I want to do, forest/woodland which are rather in low light. ND filters make the footage even worse. I am shooting 5.3K, 30fps, shutter 1/60.
@@haarew8336 in fact you should use them when there is a lot of light. I would also set shutter on 1/50 if you register at 25fps (always the half). 1/60 if you register at 30fps
@@haarew8336 i hope. I don't like too when I register in low light conditions with my Gopro 11. This is stange but when I modified the whole video and I exported it wasn't too bad
An alternate title for this video: How to Get as Much Motion Blur as Possible in Your Videos Using ND Filters While Avoiding Ghosting and Jitter, Keeping Stabilization On, and not Needing a Gimbal.
That title is way too long but sharing it for additional clarity of the aim of this video 😃
i have bought ND/PL of FREEWELL for my Gopro (Im a Novice). Can you do a video guide how to ROTATE the RING of ND/PL? Im still confuse how to use it. Thank 4 your video, best!
Amazing video, helps us beginners understand not only how to get good footage with settings, but also why we would use those settings. Thank You!
That was a very nice and gentle way to tell people not to use 24fps on an action cam. :)
LOL not my intention with this video, but I can see that. I do use 24fps at times on my action cameras but usually only when I am talking to the camera.
@@GreatDayForAHike That makes sense. At the same time it also explains why a DJI Action does not replace a DJI Pocket with manual stabilization. :)
@JM_2019 Absolutely!
You make the best, most straight forward and instructional videos! So glad I found your channel
Thank you. I appreciate it.
This is incredible! I hope you do this same test on the Action 5, since you can crank the ISO with less noise on that camera. I’m definitely going to try this on my GoPro 12. You have been instrumental and helping me get better videos with that camera. I really love it in the right light.
Thank you! Yes, I’m in the process of doing a lot of testing with the Action 5.
@@GreatDayForAHike nice! Can’t wait. Thank you for all you do. Really helpful!
@babyboy1971 You’re welcome!
Hey, great video! Really gave an nice alternative and I will definitely give it a try. Perhaps you can give some recommendations. If in the future I would choose to use gimbal, do you recommend any specific one. Or do you suggest then switching to pherhaps the dji osmo cameras?
Wow! just yesterday I stumbled across your channel cuz I bought Freewell Bright Day 4 Pack for GoPro 12 and their QR-linked video was overly simplistic, not to say lazy ("line up these two white marks and you're good"). And here we have such a great content! (at such a perfect time) Thank you so much!
Also, your video on night lapses inspired me to try my own and the very first attempt looks not ugly =) Just letting you know, that your work are much appreciated and gives others lots of knowledge and inspiration! Many thanks!
I really appreciate your feedback and support. Glad you have found these videos helpful!
Best channel and content. Thanks! 👍
Thank you!
is it important to follow the 180° (or in this instance 90°) shutter rule? Does it create a bad look when using an uneven degree shutter for example 60fps on 1/200 shutter and not 1/240s?
do you follow the rule in motovlogging? does it affect the image quality? or do we need to stay within the 1/200 and 1/240?
Your videos are always so helpful. Thank you.
You’re welcome and I’m glad you find them helpful.
Oh.. almost forgot.. i just updates my Osmo action 5 pro yesterday (29/11) and they actually fixed some stabilization jittering. I Only tested on the basic rocksteady and didn’t tried rocksteady+ but I’m ALMOST happy with the results
very nice explain and tip!the settings -2 sharpness and -1 noise reduction you use it at the day and the night or only the day?also if i have 50fps and 100 shutter and move very slowly(step by step) i will have the ghosting or jittering effect?also why you use shutter 240?i have seen that the action 4 must be at least 200...(40 more frames i think make the difference to have the blur from 180 rule😀)thanks!
Yes I use those sharpness and noise reduction settings during the day and in low light. With 50fps and 1/100 shutter if you move slowly and “glide” with your movement you might be okay without much jitter or ghosting. At least 1/200 is important for the shutter, but I like 1/240 because it is exactly four times 60 and equals a 90-degree shutter angle.
@@GreatDayForAHike thanks for the quick respond!you are a professional!🙂
And how does the stabilization behave with the shutter speed at 1/50 or 1/60 when post-processing in Gyroflow if you record the video without internal stabilization? Thank you very much for the informative video!
Great question! I have found this to be hit or miss with Gyroflow stabilizing later on with a shutter speed at 1/50 or 1/60 and stabilization off. If in good lighting during the day, Gyroflow will often work okay. If the footage was filmed in lower light, the results are not always so good. In addition, if the camera was mounted on something like a drone where it’s somewhat smoother than handheld, the results are usually better in Gyroflow vs handheld footage. So the results aren’t consistent under this scenario but it is possible to get good results.
@@GreatDayForAHike Thank you very much, I will test it once with my fpv drone and then analyse the difference.
Very in depth resource here. Could you please share with me the video explaining the QR codes needed to set the GoPro shutter speed ranges? I never saw a link for that. Thank you!
Hi there 😊
Which group of parameters gives a better"motion blur" and final look?
50fps S1/200 export to 50fps or 25fps S1/200 export up to 25fps?
Great question! I prefer the 50fps with 1/200 shutter speed combo because the fps and shutter speed are closer together and I think it looks smoother and better. As far as which to export to, it will likely look similar with either export. There will of course be frames that are not needed when 50 is exported as 25 but the effect should still be there.
Great thanks, very helpful! On the GoPro does it matter what lens you use? Is hyperview ok?
This was excellent, thank you!
Thanks!
Now I understand why my ace pro did a pretty good video on my motorbike with ND filter, and why it was kinda bad during mountain biking. For that, the auto setting made a way better video, in 4k and 30 fps.
I may be wrong.. but I don’t think the problem is the shutter speed it self but the actual blur it produces, I’ll have to test it but I believe the same stabilization you produced using 60/240 ratio could be applied to 24/96 and 30/120.. again, I’m not sure and we could test it
Did you test it? I think the say way you did.
The video I’ve been wanting
Glad to hear this is helpful.
what good brand of filter is worth buying? freewell brand is hard to find where I live.
Freewell is my favorite brand but if that isn’t available then I recommend checking out PolarPro or Neewer.
Great Video, you prefer same settings on the OA5? What about the extra stabilization setting sport or daily?
Yes, these settings translate well to the OA5. For extra stabilization I recommend daily.
@ also for cycling like mtb? (Daily)
Thank u for the explanation. What about just using the ND effect in the insta360 app/studio software?
You could do that as well. I find that effect to be great in footage that is overly sharp but sometimes the motion blur doesn’t feel as natural when applying that effect depending upon what is happening in the scene. So it’s certainly useful for boosting the motion blur.
I will try this to record my moto trips :) I have a DJI OM4 and on the last recordings, with no ND filters, set to 4K 30 FPS and auto with a shutter speed of 30 ~max and ISO 100-800 I get every now and then small image shifts. Either translation wise or rotation wise. I now it's from the EIS because in the videos with RS off, everything is ok. Conditions where bright but a lot of going under trees (nice curvey forest road :) ) Is it possible that because of the low end of the SS set to 30, the EIS was causing those shifts?
Great tips gonna try this on action 3
Great video!
Question: why can’t you use 180 rule and put ND on (depending on light) so EV goes to 0.0 or 0.3?
Note: osmo is my first action cam. I’ve owned and used Sony z90, cannon xf 300, and Sony ZV-E1
180 rule would need 120 frames per second with a 1/240 shutter speed. But the DJI action 4 only allows 60frames per second in 4k, that's it
I observed very shaky footage on my new OA5 on a motorbike, set at 1/50 and 25fps with an ND16.
Mind you, the camera was on my bars, not my helmet.
Maybe using the ND32 instead to reduce light would help?
I did try your 1/240 at 60fps method and the footage looks great, however there’s not enough motion blur for my liking.
Anything below a shutter speed of 1/200 regardless of the ND filter being used is going to have jitter and ghosting with RockSteady turned on. This is because RockSteady is a type of EIS and it needs sharp enough frames to work properly. That is why I propose the 1/240 with 60FPS method in this video as a way to prevent that but the trade off is less motion blur. I think most will prefer the trade off of less motion blur over completely unusable footage with jitter and ghosting though. It’s a limitation of action cameras using EIS. There is no perfect solution unfortunately.
@@GreatDayForAHike appreciate the quick response and further clarification.
Hi.. I make some motorcycle videos too… there is another way.. I didn’t tried yet but I’ll very soon.
Disable stabilization in camera and use Gyro Flow to estabilize in post.. there’s plenty of tutorials on YT showing how to use. I’ll give a try as soon as I can
I just got my ND filters for my Hero 10 this week, thanks for the video :D
Great timing. Enjoy your ND filters on your GoPro!
What is a good vlogging setting for this to still have good stabilization but also bright enough clips? For example with vlogging you constantly go indoor and outdoor, and adjusting the setting all the time is not handy
60 FPS at 240 shutter speed gives you a 90 degree shutter angle. That's half the motion blur of the 180 degree shutter angle standard. Do you still find that gives you enough motion blur?
Great question. I find that the motion blur is great, especially if moving fairly fast on something such as a bike, skateboard, car, etc. If just walking or moving slowly, the motion won't feel quite as intense unless the camera is placed pretty close to the surface where the motion is occurring.
@@GreatDayForAHike Thanks for the video, and comment from gregg. I just purchased my first action cam, the dji-4, but have some experience with the pocket camera and drones.
I was NOT aware of the stabilization issue with motion blur and EIS systems until I got this action camera, and of course ND filters... your video is the best I have seen so far at explaining the issues and set-ups!! and I film my pocket and drones at 60 on 30 timeline typically as well.
my only question: I just set up all mt presets on the action 4 with default 60/200 frame/shutter. (when possible of course) I know that 240 is divisible by 60, but does that really matter that much? wouldn't 200 still give me stable footage, with max motion blur? or do you recommend 240 min for stabilization? at which point I can't imagine much motion blur, unless I take it to a nascar race or something.....
You know more than most about how to maximize the GoPro. I’ve got some questions regarding the use of the hero12 with a fpv drone. Is there a way I can personally message you ?
Another great content! I’ve been using a gimbal on my Ace Pro and it sucks lugging it around. Now I don’t have to deal with that. I did notice though that the clarity zoom feature of the Ace Pro was disabled with these settings.
Thank you! Yes, the clarity zoom feature will not be available with these specific settings which I realize is a trade-off.
@@GreatDayForAHike totally give it up though for a much smoother filming experience. Thanks again my friend!
I don't know why, but 24 FPS with a 96 shutter speed feels much more natural to me. I've done all the possible tests, and 24 FPS is more natural with any shutter speed compared to 60 FPS/240, but maybe I'm just losing it.
The stabilization isn't top-notch, but it works even with 96. On the other hand, I like the flexibility of 60 FPS since I can slow it down to 40% or 80%.
If I was trying to record 4k 120, I’d want to set the shutter at 1/480, correct ?
You could do 1/480 if you'd like, but the great thing about a 120 FPS is you can use the 180 degree shutter angle setting and have a shutter speed of 1/240 and still have Hypersmooth work properly.
@@GreatDayForAHike ah okay. So the key takeaway is that whatever your frame rate. You just need to have a shutter that’s 1/200 or more , correct ?
@doom3crazy That’s right.
@@GreatDayForAHike so do you feel turning the de noise stuff all the way off and using an third party de noise yields the best image ? And if so , which de noise program do you use ?
Where is the sample footage so I can see it looks fine
what settings do you recommend for MTB ?
@@boogiedownbronx73 he said everything u need to know. Watch before commenting come on..
I bought Go Pro 12, but I am not so sure if it's suitable for videos I want to do, forest/woodland which are rather in low light. ND filters make the footage even worse. I am shooting 5.3K, 30fps, shutter 1/60.
@@haarew8336 in fact you should use them when there is a lot of light. I would also set shutter on 1/50 if you register at 25fps (always the half). 1/60 if you register at 30fps
@@Bozzuuu Thanks, unfortunately but I returned it, the image didn't look good. I did shoot at 4K, 30fps shutter 1/60. Maybe GoPro 13 will be better?
@@haarew8336 i hope. I don't like too when I register in low light conditions with my Gopro 11. This is stange but when I modified the whole video and I exported it wasn't too bad
@Bozzuuu Good to hear.
This video may also help helpful for addressing the issue you were experiencing: ua-cam.com/video/e5Sx3s94syw/v-deo.htmlsi=bEvMeI5tfBem4yRs
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