Its pricy, but the M2C motor mount kit is worth it IMO. I tried both the Hot Racing and Arrma upgrades on my big rock. With real sends, I was having motor plate bending with that. So, I had a new kit for my Kraton 4S before i even ran it - figuring the same mount from a big rock would have the same issues. No issues with their kit. I beat the hell out of these things. 🤷♂
Good video thanks. I changed up my OutCast 4s with the longer chassis, longer driveshaft with center support bearing AND modified the red Aluminum center support bar. I ordered another center support bar, cut off 40mm, drilled out & threaded the entire shaft. I then added it to my existing center support bar, since I was dead set on keeping that structural member after going with a monger chassis that normally would not have it. This all started because I wanted a different body on my OutCast that was slightly larger than the original....so not really an OutCast any longer.
I’m also going to say that the stock radio that came with my Kraton 4s has worked flawlessly. Works very well, the range is actually pretty good, throttle and steering response is good too. Maybe I’m just not as picky as everyone about the radio, but I think you all are being a little too hard on a RTR radio.
You just arnt experienced enough to notice it. The radio combined with the servo creates a seriously slow and delayed turn and the radio just feels plasticky and cheap.
Well depends how you drive.. if you don't jump just run on dirt and on road then it's not necessary.. the stock will last A while.. but rpm is definitely The best alternative if something does break.. I personally never hard bash my rc stuff..
I agree about the motor mount, I’ve bent 2 of them already from very light jumps, less than 2 feet high. And somehow I’ve chipped and worn off teeth on the rear differential and crown gear from popping wheelies on asphalt. For the price I wish it had come with better materials in those 2 areas.
Nice video. Very helpful. I’ll defo take these tips on board. I also recommend upgrading the suspension arms to RPM ones. I broke mine within 15 mins of using the Kraton! Terribly weak. I have read else where they break easy on hard landings.
Well done video bro..The Transmitter and sealed bearings for sure..I gtta clean the stock bearings on my Arrma's all the time..I just take the servo saver off for a normal horn
Iwas Told by somebody on u tube about sound like good Advice so iam going to try it out on my 4s kraton that i just bought in may slipper Clutch to comes loose alot Needs to be tight but not to tight so I've. Been told by more Experienced Rc hobbyist and people trying to help me get my Truck Right Thank you Everyone for All your support iam a Newbie
Sound advice! For me, it was 1, radio; 2, Proline Badlands; 3, RPM swing arms. Tighten up the slipper clutch too! And reinforce the body shell with helitape, shoe goo and drywall tape... The other stuff is as and when. I break lower shock eyes all the time, steering turnbuckles bend easily and a good few hub carriers have gone too. Not the most durable truck in my experience - it breaks way more than my K6s or Slash 4x4. Not as much as my E-Revo tho, but then what does...
I changed out my radio to the fly sky transmitter and receiver. I have done some of those upgrades I had also changed out all of the a arms to the RPM ones and put in the hot racing differential yolks. I also changed out the motor plate to the upgraded Arrma one but I also bent that really badly. But I do beat on my cars pretty badly. If you check out any of my videos you’ll see what I mean LOL so it’s really no fault of the car or the products.
I have an arrma outcast 4s. The motor will make noise but the car will not move. I think the pinion gear came loose but I’m just not sure how to get to the pinion gear
I have done all of those upgrades and then some to my Granite BLX. I am now running a 4s HW system in it so I had to upgrade. I also threw in a 21 kg HV servo and that was also a very good upgrade. I still haven't installed the bellcrank bearings or the HR servo saver yet though. The servo is so fast the servo saver can't keep up so I will be changing it soon. Good tips though and all make a huge difference.
I think the stock tire tread is fantastic. Any more bite and I feel that flipping or wheelies will be more common. Cant wait till.they come out with those smart radios. I got that smart 8s bundle charger and batteries. Same charge time as run time plus auto balancing and and shit off. Incredible upgrade
I can’t even fine outcast 4s for sale rite now DO THEY STILL MAKE THEM AND IS ARRMA COMING OUT WITH A OUTCAST 4s and kraton 4s EXB this is wat I’m hearing
It's a lot of fun to drive the granite and outcast. Unfortunately I have a lot of trouble with the drive shafts they break continously, even on stock motor ESC combo and with an upgrade to 17mm Hex on the outcast with the driveshaft ARA311148. Do you have a recommenation to fix it?
Looking for replacement shock towers for this thing. They need to be aluminum or titanium or a better plastic design that's beefier. They break very easy. My local shop sells and replaces them daily.
John That sounds like a lie. There’s nothing wrong with the stock shock towers and to blatantly spout nonsense like that is part of the problem with the internet and people spreading misinformation
Need some help. I bough a Kimbrough servo saver that you suggested. But when I screwed it on and ran a test, it jammed up the steering. And the servo then only turned 180 in one direction. This happened again on another servo. Any help? TIA
Razor RC ... thanks for the reply. I have it centered. No problems there. 👍. The heavy duty black Kimbrough doesn’t seem to have any “give” at all. It that ok? Also, the screw is really long. Could it be too long that it damages the servo?
Randy Dimac yes it could be... stick a 1.5mm driver in the hole to check the depth (with the saver on) and make sure your screw is not longer than that.
Plastic gears with yolks that hold the Differential input gear. To your Differential Be cause with the plastic ones it flexes and THAT what cause the plastic gesrs to strip with the Aluminum ones yolksyou dont have all THE flex and with that LLess gear problems those are the problems I've been having lately stripped plastic gears and loose slipper Clutchs
Wow, have watched all your race vehicle vids, didn't know you had an Arrma. Nice! Hey speaking of bearings, is it worth it paying for Tekin branded T8 bearings, vs. other ceramic hybrid brands?
@@davet9655 sorry man didn't catch your question til now...when you take your steering rack apart they use plastic bushings.. those little tiny bearings are to replace those bushings and give your steering waasaaaay ease of going back and forth... If you've got them I would suggest using them without a doubt
Thanks for sharing this information with everyone mate!!! Very helpful 👍 Are you able to show a video on arrma 4s slipper clutch adjustment procedure please? I have done mine but not confident I have done it properly. Thanks 👍🦘🇦🇺
Outback RC Australia I set it as tight as possible with it still having a lot bit of play. Make sure you keep rotating and checking for play, as there will be tight spots due to variation in the pinion and spur.
So I am in the market for a new 4s+ Rc MT or off road 4x4 of any brand I mainly have Traxxas in my 18+ years but have owned Team Associated, HPI, and losi and After this video I am like I never had to buy or upgrade this many things for an RTR. I really want a new brand like Arrma but I keep seeing video that have proven to be Way worse off than any of my traxxas RC that I have as in upgrades. I have over 12 RCs and they are all 85% Traxxas RCs and I hardly have to upgrade anything on them for them to run and have fun with without having any issues. I mean replacing all the bearings?! Might as well get a kit somewhere and build it yourself and the radio and receiver doesn’t surprise me bc I have heard they are horrid even compared to Traxxas bc of the distances it has. It’s so hard for me to get a new rc from a brand I know very well bc I have been burned almost every time I went in that direction. Meaning I did not like the performance of any other brand basically besides the team associated 1/8 buggy. So now I am really at a loss bc of stuff like this.
Joseph Dorsey I agree on the Tekno mt410, however it is a kit only for 450$, you will still need a body, tires & rims, esc, motor, servo, radio & receiver, battery and charger. You can install a good 4-6s system in it and it will be as close to bulletproof as possible but you’re looking at a 8-900$ truck at that point. Is it worth it? Definitely. Just be ready to spend some money on quality like this. I wish Tekno would offer a good Rtr version of the mt410.
Joseph Dorsey This was just an opinion on first upgrades to do if you want. The trucks run just fine stock out the box. Probably shouldn’t be believing everything you see and read online. A lot of these channels are shills for one company or another. I’m not a Kevin Talbot fan but he has beat the shit out of his completely stock 4s Outcast and it still runs fine. Most of these channels are run by guys who can’t really drive an Rc and complain about stuff breaking due to incompetence on their part.
Cool videos i have a 4x4 Ruckus MONSTER TRUCK 110 WITH A 3300kv ABC TAZER MOTOR AND A 5000MAH 100C BATTERY WITH 2 COOLING FANS A ALSO BRUSHLESS MOTOR TO BOOT PRETTY FAST BUT I WANT SOMETHING FASTER LIIKE THE TYCOON 3S WITH THE 11.I LIPO BATTERY
Perfect upgrades another one you should do is shim your diffs I did it to my 6s . Learned all the tricks from Rich Duperbash . His one of the best RC bashers on UA-cam, check him out guys . 😁👌🏻
Just buy the 6s line and be done with the 4s. Save up , I get 570$ is alot more but at the end of the day you could have just bought a traxxas with all that plastic cause that's basically what you have. You won't ever be able to bash a 4s like a 6s.
Its pricy, but the M2C motor mount kit is worth it IMO. I tried both the Hot Racing and Arrma upgrades on my big rock. With real sends, I was having motor plate bending with that. So, I had a new kit for my Kraton 4S before i even ran it - figuring the same mount from a big rock would have the same issues. No issues with their kit. I beat the hell out of these things. 🤷♂
Good video thanks.
I changed up my OutCast 4s with the longer chassis, longer driveshaft with center support bearing AND modified the red Aluminum center support bar. I ordered another center support bar, cut off 40mm, drilled out & threaded the entire shaft. I then added it to my existing center support bar, since I was dead set on keeping that structural member after going with a monger chassis that normally would not have it.
This all started because I wanted a different body on my OutCast that was slightly larger than the original....so not really an OutCast any longer.
I’m also going to say that the stock radio that came with my Kraton 4s has worked flawlessly. Works very well, the range is actually pretty good, throttle and steering response is good too. Maybe I’m just not as picky as everyone about the radio, but I think you all are being a little too hard on a RTR radio.
You just arnt experienced enough to notice it. The radio combined with the servo creates a seriously slow and delayed turn and the radio just feels plasticky and cheap.
Any 2.4 radio is better then the Spektrum that comes stock. It has serious lag once the car is 50ft
I think the rpm a arms are also important
First thing I bought
Well depends how you drive.. if you don't jump just run on dirt and on road then it's not necessary.. the stock will last A while.. but rpm is definitely The best alternative if something does break.. I personally never hard bash my rc stuff..
I agree about the motor mount, I’ve bent 2 of them already from very light jumps, less than 2 feet high. And somehow I’ve chipped and worn off teeth on the rear differential and crown gear from popping wheelies on asphalt. For the price I wish it had come with better materials in those 2 areas.
Nice video. Very helpful. I’ll defo take these tips on board. I also recommend upgrading the suspension arms to RPM ones. I broke mine within 15 mins of using the Kraton! Terribly weak. I have read else where they break easy on hard landings.
Would recommend changing the pivot balls to the HR metal ones. The stock wear out quicker than a bar of soap.
Well done video bro..The Transmitter and sealed bearings for sure..I gtta clean the stock bearings on my Arrma's all the time..I just take the servo saver off for a normal horn
Iwas Told by somebody on u tube about sound like good Advice so iam going to try it out on my 4s kraton that i just bought in may slipper Clutch to comes loose alot Needs to be tight but not to tight so I've. Been told by more Experienced Rc hobbyist and people trying to help me get my Truck Right Thank you Everyone for All your support iam a Newbie
Sound advice! For me, it was 1, radio; 2, Proline Badlands; 3, RPM swing arms. Tighten up the slipper clutch too! And reinforce the body shell with helitape, shoe goo and drywall tape... The other stuff is as and when. I break lower shock eyes all the time, steering turnbuckles bend easily and a good few hub carriers have gone too. Not the most durable truck in my experience - it breaks way more than my K6s or Slash 4x4. Not as much as my E-Revo tho, but then what does...
Can you show us where these parts are and how to change them I'm a noob
I changed out my radio to the fly sky transmitter and receiver. I have done some of those upgrades I had also changed out all of the a arms to the RPM ones and put in the hot racing differential yolks. I also changed out the motor plate to the upgraded Arrma one but I also bent that really badly. But I do beat on my cars pretty badly. If you check out any of my videos you’ll see what I mean LOL so it’s really no fault of the car or the products.
I have an arrma outcast 4s. The motor will make noise but the car will not move. I think the pinion gear came loose but I’m just not sure how to get to the pinion gear
I have done all of those upgrades and then some to my Granite BLX. I am now running a 4s HW system in it so I had to upgrade. I also threw in a 21 kg HV servo and that was also a very good upgrade. I still haven't installed the bellcrank bearings or the HR servo saver yet though. The servo is so fast the servo saver can't keep up so I will be changing it soon. Good tips though and all make a huge difference.
Nice, a good servo would be the next thing I recommend too!
I think the stock tire tread is fantastic.
Any more bite and I feel that flipping or wheelies will be more common.
Cant wait till.they come out with those smart radios.
I got that smart 8s bundle charger and batteries. Same charge time as run time plus auto balancing and and shit off. Incredible upgrade
Incredible TYPO !!! my stock tires either spin or wheelie,you learn where the brake is real quick ... much fun.They work pretty well. 2X2S smart
I can’t even fine outcast 4s for sale rite now DO THEY STILL MAKE THEM AND IS ARRMA COMING OUT WITH A OUTCAST 4s and kraton 4s EXB this is wat I’m hearing
Did you change the pinion for the bigger tires......
It's a lot of fun to drive the granite and outcast. Unfortunately I have a lot of trouble with the drive shafts they break continously, even on stock motor ESC combo and with an upgrade to 17mm Hex on the outcast with the driveshaft ARA311148. Do you have a recommenation to fix it?
Loosen the slipper about a half turn.
@@RazorRC Thank you. It was a front driveshaft. I had to tide the slipper last Werk due to no propulsion.
Looking for replacement shock towers for this thing. They need to be aluminum or titanium or a better plastic design that's beefier. They break very easy. My local shop sells and replaces them daily.
John That sounds like a lie. There’s nothing wrong with the stock shock towers and to blatantly spout nonsense like that is part of the problem with the internet and people spreading misinformation
im taking all these videos into account.and doing most of it. the outcast will be a talk when im done
Very timely - we just got one of these!
Need some help. I bough a Kimbrough servo saver that you suggested. But when I screwed it on and ran a test, it jammed up the steering. And the servo then only turned 180 in one direction. This happened again on another servo. Any help? TIA
Turn on the radio and car before you mount the saver to make sure the servo is centered. Then put the saver on.
Razor RC ... thanks for the reply. I have it centered. No problems there. 👍. The heavy duty black Kimbrough doesn’t seem to have any “give” at all. It that ok? Also, the screw is really long. Could it be too long that it damages the servo?
Randy Dimac yes it could be... stick a 1.5mm driver in the hole to check the depth (with the saver on) and make sure your screw is not longer than that.
hi， will ur drive shaft keep on pop out ？
Plastic gears with yolks that hold the Differential input gear. To your Differential Be cause with the plastic ones it flexes and THAT what cause the plastic gesrs to strip with the Aluminum ones yolksyou dont have all THE flex and with that LLess gear problems those are the problems I've been having lately stripped plastic gears and loose slipper Clutchs
Wow, have watched all your race vehicle vids, didn't know you had an Arrma. Nice! Hey speaking of bearings, is it worth it paying for Tekin branded T8 bearings, vs. other ceramic hybrid brands?
sorry don't know, I've never bought ceramic bearings
Hello.. what is the size of the steering bearing? And can we fit the 17mm wheel hex of 3s Typhon to this 4s Kraton/Outcast?
Smithesh N I have the bearing size in my Granite video. And the Typhon hexes won’t fit. ☹️
I believe they are 5x10x4
Smithesh N Hot Racing sells a 17mm hex adapter kit for the 4s and 3s lineup now. Make sure you get the 4s one as it’s different from the 3s.
how are those tiresa on the street ?
Awesome video, some great info n tips, thanks for sharing bro!
STEVO D 313 thanks, hope you’re doing well!
As always great video man...I also have Jim's bearings in mine as well...some of the best bearings I've used yet
Did you use the smallest 5*8*2.5, if so where do they go?
@@davet9655 sorry man didn't catch your question til now...when you take your steering rack apart they use plastic bushings.. those little tiny bearings are to replace those bushings and give your steering waasaaaay ease of going back and forth... If you've got them I would suggest using them without a doubt
@@rickbadessa4897 All sorted, for the 2 small bearings- one each in the front and rear diff.
can the kraton 6s shocks fit on the 4s truck?
I believe they can do hold me to that tho
Anyways GREAT video and great Truck i have the the same one u just presented Chris
Thanks for sharing this information with everyone mate!!!
Very helpful 👍
Are you able to show a video on arrma 4s slipper clutch adjustment procedure please?
I have done mine but not confident I have done it properly. Thanks 👍🦘🇦🇺
Outback RC Australia I set it as tight as possible with it still having a lot bit of play. Make sure you keep rotating and checking for play, as there will be tight spots due to variation in the pinion and spur.
@@RazorRC
I will give it a go, thanks for replying!!
So I am in the market for a new 4s+ Rc MT or off road 4x4 of any brand I mainly have Traxxas in my 18+ years but have owned Team Associated, HPI, and losi and After this video I am like I never had to buy or upgrade this many things for an RTR. I really want a new brand like Arrma but I keep seeing video that have proven to be Way worse off than any of my traxxas RC that I have as in upgrades. I have over 12 RCs and they are all 85% Traxxas RCs and I hardly have to upgrade anything on them for them to run and have fun with without having any issues. I mean replacing all the bearings?! Might as well get a kit somewhere and build it yourself and the radio and receiver doesn’t surprise me bc I have heard they are horrid even compared to Traxxas bc of the distances it has. It’s so hard for me to get a new rc from a brand I know very well bc I have been burned almost every time I went in that direction. Meaning I did not like the performance of any other brand basically besides the team associated 1/8 buggy. So now I am really at a loss bc of stuff like this.
Joseph Dorsey get a Tekno MT410 kit...perfect and stronger than other RTR
Joseph Dorsey I agree on the Tekno mt410, however it is a kit only for 450$, you will still need a body, tires & rims, esc, motor, servo, radio & receiver, battery and charger. You can install a good 4-6s system in it and it will be as close to bulletproof as possible but you’re looking at a 8-900$ truck at that point. Is it worth it? Definitely. Just be ready to spend some money on quality like this. I wish Tekno would offer a good Rtr version of the mt410.
Joseph Dorsey This was just an opinion on first upgrades to do if you want. The trucks run just fine stock out the box. Probably shouldn’t be believing everything you see and read online. A lot of these channels are shills for one company or another. I’m not a Kevin Talbot fan but he has beat the shit out of his completely stock 4s Outcast and it still runs fine. Most of these channels are run by guys who can’t really drive an Rc and complain about stuff breaking due to incompetence on their part.
Cool videos i have a 4x4 Ruckus MONSTER TRUCK 110 WITH A 3300kv ABC TAZER MOTOR AND A 5000MAH 100C BATTERY WITH 2 COOLING FANS A ALSO BRUSHLESS MOTOR TO BOOT PRETTY FAST BUT I WANT SOMETHING FASTER LIIKE THE TYCOON 3S WITH THE 11.I LIPO BATTERY
Awesome review of the Kraton. 👍👍Can’t wait to see a bash video. 👊🏻👊🏻. Bash on 😎😎
Lride Bash It RC thanks, I’ve also got a full review and bashing videos posted earlier this year.
Perfect upgrades another one you should do is shim your diffs I did it to my 6s . Learned all the tricks from Rich Duperbash . His one of the best RC bashers on UA-cam, check him out guys . 😁👌🏻
love his channel!
Adrenaline Ash RC The v4 6s line diffs are shimmed out the box. I don’t know about the 4s line though.
Good video.. thanks 👍🏾
Btw fabricating a whole new servo saver is not a convenient upgrade
Great Truck if u goe Easy with it
Just chang GEARS to metal or Aluminum and. So not to destroy ur input gear and shim it so no flex on input gear
Just buy the 6s line and be done with the 4s. Save up , I get 570$ is alot more but at the end of the day you could have just bought a traxxas with all that plastic cause that's basically what you have. You won't ever be able to bash a 4s like a 6s.
Get 37t crown gear and 13t input gear. I don't know what arrma is smoking, but plastic diffs and 4s is not a good combo. Duh.
Would be nice if you ran through it and not just talked about it 🤘
That's a total rebuild u should have bought a better buggie
Seriously???? These are the kinds of stuff you do on a JLB Cheetah...