On the typhon 3s v3 there are 2 empty holes in front of each side of the motor module and you can put 2 m4 x 8mm button top screws that fit perfectly to where you cant even stick a piece of paper in between. This helps prevent the motor mount from bending.
Tip number 6,change the plastic spur gear for the metal upgraded one if you intend to bash n jump it hard,also the stock shocks bend pretty easily so if you don't wanna spend too much upgrading them just fit a senton front bumper for extra protection. Your velcro tip is genius by the way 😊
I went ahead and bought the metal gear and a set of slippers when I ordered the car, cuz I burned thru so many plastic gears on my Kyosho nitro (& there was no metal option).
A metal spur is a band-aid. Yeah, it's tougher but it will transfer energy to other parts of the driveline AND it doesn't address the real issue, which is mesh, mostly the result of a bent motor plate. Hot Racing makes a great plate but the M2C motor plate/brace combo is amazing. A metal gearbox is also a great option. I have the M2C pieces and, 4-5 yrs in, I'm only on my second plastic spur!
Got a Granite, already lost a wheel (so threadlocked the 4), had a servo failure (upgraded with a jx servo and a 25t servo saver from yeahrun) and bent the motor mount (m2c upgrade on the way). That's 3 out of 5 already. Wasn't aware of the velcro mod. I'll try it. For the Hex, depending the the wheells you wanna upgrade there's also a 17mm hex adapter. But Louise MT tire range exists in 14mm hex. Got another tip for you : close the small holes on the chassis under the servo with a 3d printed cap or a piece of ducktape. It prevent small rocks and dust to stack under electro module. Thanks for your video, always great quality and straight to the point :)
Hi Razor- One 3S tip I have is using the Outcast 4S shocks on the 3S. They fit nicely and very durable and I think better performance. It's super beefy compared to stock but still fits.
On my and a friend's recently bought Granites, there was loctite on the axle screws, BUT, a couple of my hubs and one of his were loose enough to remove by my fingers. The loose hubs made us paranoid and we checked every screw we could get to without tearing the whole truck apart, and everything was fine.
Definitely upgrade the servo before you even get started . Mine broke 3 minutes into my first run because I took a turn a little fast and rolled it. The stock one on mine had plastic gears .
The only times I've ever bent the motor mount was when I sent it about 20-25 feet in the air and landed completely sideways. Other than that, I felt absolutely no need to upgrade the motor mount.
Seen guys use hot glue around their motor to give it a little cushion to keep it in place....given the motors not getting too hot it should be a good idea. Hot glue also peels right off with a straight blade screwdriver if you ever need to replace or remove your motor 😁
been thrashin the life out of my big rock 3s now a couple of months. only upgrade i found it needed was a dirt cover to keep stones out (as a stone killed composite shaft like a lathe) and your brilliant idea with the velcro.
It’s funny I’m watching this video from 2 years ago, and I just recently, within a month, bought the granite and had this very thing happen while driving in my driveway. The rear right wheel just flew off and rolled down my driveway 😂 Luckily it was at a low speed. And just as you stated, I realized the set screw was still in place which made me feel like I’d won the lottery 😂 Anyway I also used thread lock when I reassembled it. Although I will admit, I haven’t done the other 3 wheels yet 😬 Maybe that should be my weekend project 😂
Mate thank you very much I've got the arrma vortex for my grandson for chirstmas and ordered spur gear and will be getting 12mm hex and fixing these problems. Again thank you very much and be safe 👍😁😁
I think it's worth mentioning for the people who have problems diagnosing stripped spur gears. If the plates bend your pinion and spur gear aren't alined correctly and wil strip out the nylon spur gear. Appreciate the info and upload, keep on doing what you!
Followed all your tips EXCEPT thread-locking the drives to the wheels. Figured ARRMA must have sorted this problem now after 12 months of your video being live. Sure enough today front N/S wheel bounced off over the horizon!
Very helpful video. I've had my Vorteks around 10 months. On my second battery pack, my third set of tires is almost worn out, and my third body shell is already cracked. So I've driven mine a bit. Totally agree with Loctite-ing everything, especially the wheel nuts, as Vorteks tires are notorious for flying off, and I have the hardware store axle nut replacements to show for it lol. My stock servo is still going, but I've heard many have issues. Haven't gone to 12mm cuz I got tires with adapters, and recently rediscovered Duratrax (belted!) and Powerhobby tires. After bending and reshaping the motor mount so many times it wouldn't go straight anymore, I bought an RCAWD aluminum gear box and haven't had issues since. I would also recommend getting a steel spur gear, as the stock plastic one may go out early. Mine did. Of course, I do run my Vorteks relatively hard, using up a battery in 10-12 minutes of run time. I think later, and I'm at that point now, some aluminum upgrades are good. Hubs and links, mainly. Wherever you have a metal screw going into plastic, metal will win over time. Thanks for the video!
Yep... Ive lost wheels and used locktight, bent my motor plate replaced it with the hot racing, and smoked a servo 😅. I have a Typhon and a vorteks. I shouldve watched this a long time ago. Thanks for the tips. Ill definitely be using the velcro and switching to 12mm on my vorteks
I shredded a spur gear from a small rock getting wedged under my motor. Couldn't have been there for more than 15 minutes and killed the spur gear. So I put a piece of foam gasket around the motor to prevent it from happening again
I put bigger wheels/tires on my grandsons 3s 4x4 Senton. This necessitated a smaller pinion. With the smaller pinion, now the truck is a torque monster! It pulls wheelies easily! Now the problem is, the rear driveshafts cannot handle the torque! Driveshaft upgrade needed!
Followed your instructions for my recently bought Big Rock. Also reinforced the body and set the slipper clutch. My drive shafts already had some Loctite on them.
I was just looking at replacing my axle on my senton however, after watching your amazing video, I found the axle had in fact came unscrewed. Thank you! 👍👏
I figured i would add my 2 cents in. For all the models the weakness i have seen that wasn't mention is the ball joints. Most of them have little flanges on both sides for mounting flush, and i have seen many break. Popping them out and replacing them with aluminum ones is very important imo. I am also not a fan of the shocks. I have not seen any of them break, but having the top eye built onto the shock body means a whole body replacement if it does break. The Prolines are expensive, but a very worth while upgrade if you plan on running it for a long time. The last one i have is specific to the Senton. The stock tires are pretty fragile. I blew one out on the 3rd run in a straight line on the dirt. A massive piece of it tore off. The whole bead was still very glued on as well. I figured this was a fluke, until it happened 2 more times the same exact way. On one of the front original tires, and again on the back with one of the replacements. The wheels are perfectly fine, but i moved to Proline tires, and have not had a issue since. The Armma 3s's are beastly, but the few problems they have is really annoying. To make the Senton perfect (imo) brought the price from $339, to about $450, but it is now a super fun and reliable truck that will out handle my buddies Slash 4x4 with an LCG chassis.
Biggest mod/s I liked so far were the HR pivot balls, new servo, and aluminum bell crank. My BRCC is much more stable and easier to control at high speeds. 2nd was getting a new motor since the stock seized the bearings, I went with a surpass hobby 3665 3500kv motor and love it. There is virtually no more cogging on the esc/stock gearing, actually very impressed with the torque it puts out.
Thanks for tip #1. I've seen you mention that on the ArrmaForum a few times and when I first started I had no idea exactly what you meant. This will help the beginners greatly. Thanks!
RPM everything on a traxxas in order to bash. Only bent tie rods and broken a arms on my arrmas. Motor bearing replaced once due to a bent mount I didn't check. By far the best value. 👌
Great tips! I'll have to give that velcro mod a whirl. I've also seen people dremel out a slot in the chassis beneath the spur gear to keep dirt and debris from collecting. I've found that Arrma makes a direct fit 25t servo saver for non-spektrum servos as well. Model #AR340151
Will be adding that velcro next time i jave the motor out...just not looking forward to re-seating it...it never wants to match the teeth on the rear and won't push on. I've found they have a huge weakness to gravel and small rocks. My first time out i spent more time clearing rocks from the steering servo than actually driving. We added a bunch of screen material to keep debris from getting inside and it makes outings sooo much nicer! We also had that issue with the axle screws...lol...until we loctited everything!
I just upgraded to the m2c motor mount, but I've had very good luck straightening my stock one on an anvil so far when I've bent it. I'll admit not everyone has an anvil lying around. I also drilled a small hole below the power module clutch gear to let dust out, but I now wish I'd seen this and tried the velcro first. Big fan of the AR550044 for tyres/wheels , they fit right on the stock hexes. Think they're off the granite.
For everyone who is looking at an arrma 3s I got my big rock yesterday and the driveshafts were already threadlocked when I went to add some so it looks like arrma is addressing this issue
#3 totally happened to me. Exact same thing. Wish i saw your video earlier. Seems understated but that's a pretty big design flaw of the Vorteks. Thanks for this video. Very helpful.
Yes, mod1! It happened to me just recently. The wheel just came off. It was a hassle screwing the axle part together but I now see I did it wrong. I dissassembled the axle joint to reach the screw.......
Ok I'm dead serious. I watched this video this morning and saw tip #1 and thought ya I doubt that will ever happen to me. Not even an hour later I go out and drive my granite and the wheel rolls all the way down the street. Now I'm running back to this video and thread locking all the screws
I feel like it was just yesterday the 3s line ranged from $299-$320 range, but they are going at $369 now? (As of 9/2021). Did something change? Are they including the new radios in them now? That’s quite a jump in price…
What happened to my senton account was first the front bumper broke, but not to the point of needing a replacement. Then the tires disintegrated on the pavement so I got a new set, then THE SERVO DIED, but, it was still under warranty so I got a free one
Rigyt on the money Razor. Rpm arms could have easily made this list too. But Most important... keeping dirt out of the power module. It not only screws with the slipper bearings, it will seize the front motor bearing. Mine just blew, and horizon is sending a replacement motor, which is nice of them, but its backorderred... I've been waiting 9 months for my replacement felony body that was damaged when I bought it. I've owned my typhon for 2 months, it has run 3 days due to broken backordered parts. In fact, most parts for these trucks are backordered. Even know it's a good car with a great design, I'm kind of wishing that I didn't buy it. I probably won't buy another arrma as the parts support is negligent. It's a shame. I've nodded my typhon into a lwb monster truck. It's beautiful. I hope I get to drive my 600$ paperweight before the end of the year.
These Chinese servos on amazon have greatly exaggerated torque ratings. I wouldn't be surprised if that 25kg servo is about 15kg. Both my Vorteks and Big Rock servos failed within 10 packs. I replaced them with Spectrum S652 all steel gears 18 kg servos from their 6s 1/8 scale line and so far they have been running great (fingers crossed). There's a million S652 brand new take offs from 1/8th scale line being sold on eBay for $25 shipped and they match 23 tooth servo horn too. This I believe is the best servo upgrade path for the money. Assuming they last. I'm about 10 packs in on a replacement one so not extensively tested yet but I'm hopeful. S652 is over 2 times more powerful than S651 they put in 3s line so I'm hopeful it won't burn out as quickly as original. Arrma loves to put underpowered electronics in their cards. Their 1/8th scale (S652) servos should go into 1/10th scale, and 1/8th scale RCs should get an even more powerful servo.
got the m2c motor plate and the one that holds battery strap things no joke was $$ tho and did crack slipper hub ruined the bearing and cracked the gearcase too LOL
Got me a Hot Racing aluminum servo saver with Fix Link steering for Arrma 1/10 Steering from Amazon which it comes with a 23/24/25 tooth spline adapters so for now I'm using the stock servo until I get a eco power servo
upgraded servo to a 35kg one just for fun, will also upgrade the esc soon since im on my thrid on warranty, they are just bad and undersized tbh. threw on the granite tires with a 15t pinion, it runs very well with those bigass tires on now :D but overall the 3sblx lineup is a tough little kit , cheap and alot of fun
Hi Razor RC. Great video. I have a Kimbrough 124 servo saver now. Do you have a picture of how you filled yours down and which way up down you had the bolt and nut (m3?). Many thanks in advance.
Great Tips and relatively simple fixes to an already solid platform. Do you cover the motor module hole completely? That is you stick both velcro pieces together?
This video is outdated for a few mods btw, my typhon 3s v3 in december has threadlock on all of them and i couldnt even yank the last part of drive shaft from the wheel.
I'd say you must not have tried to find good replacement tires/wheels that fit the Vorteks... cause about the only ones I've seen are DuraTrax and come in 14mm... Everything else seems to be 5 inch outer diameter which is nothing but grind on the chassis while turning at speed.
It's like change for changes sake. Going from 14mm down 12mm is ridiculous all you doing is making it weaker. If you want to change it go up to 17mm. That new engine mount has proven to be no better than stock, so don't throw away your stock one just to replace it with basically the same. The engine mount problem is it's secured only on one end, if you add support for the other end, problem solved, this is also why that other extended support mount is better. The servo saver gives at the right moment to save your servo. If you change it because you "think" it should be stiffer, you are no longer saving the servo, so it breaks.
Hello, great video by the way! Quick question if you don’t mind or even others from the comment section. All are welcome. Do you have any recommendations on the Arrma Typhon and the 12mm hex? I ordered some wheel axles for a Vorteks with hopes they’d fit. Thank you for your time!
I bought a Granite V3 last week for my daughter. When i pulled the trigger for the first time i noticed that the wheels are very wobbly....is that normal? I did asked my LHS but in my country most shop owners are not the nicest people so of course they said that is was normal for a rc car in this price range. Did yours wobble very much? It are really the wheels that are the problem, they are correctly installed on the hexes and it is not a axle problem.
@@RazorRC Thank you for the quick reply! I am a little less worried now about the wheels. I come from The Netherlands, also known as 'Holland'. I am into rc crawling for a few years now but i recently got into some faster stuff. I bought a X-maxx, Felony, UDR and the Granite for my daughter. The Granite is the first 'cheap' rc i have bought so i had my concerns about the wheel wobble. My daughter is seven years old and has very good throttle, brake and steering control for a kid her age. Of course daddy is a very happy man to get to play with rc's together. The next step is installing a FlySky GT5 six channel transmitter with the BS6 receiver so she can drive just a little bit better because of the gyro in there. The Granite will not be upgraded further, it's fast enough for a small kid. Again, thank you.
A few questions…doesn’t Hot Racing make a aluminum servo saver for the Arrma 3s? Also, is it worth wild to convert the wheel hex’s to 17mm instead of your recommended 12mm? More wheel options or less/doesn’t work??
Great vid, I'm taking my 3s typhon apart now, the rear diff doesn't spin freely when the carrier is tightened....if I loosen the 2 screws it spins but has a tight spot. This as a brand new car and I heard it when I first drove it, is it OK to leave those 2 screws a little loose or what should I be looking for to keep the ring and pinion spinning free......thanks
Man, you make it look so easy. I have a VORTEX, that smoked the in 5 packs.....or at least that is what seems to be wrong. I tried arrma to see if I could fit a blx120 on it, but every answer was different . I bought a BLX100 yesterday, and it still won't run. I have steering inputs that run the motor e-z and to no avoidable problem, she won't run. Is the terra firma esc, different from the BLX100 version???? I get tires spinning forward, no reverse (forward and reverse both run forward with no brakes.). I have no steering at all. Can ANYONE help me with this stupid problem????
What are the weird wire clips that come with the Arrma 3S? Anyone? Just curious I’ve been thru the book a few times and they aren’t mentioned or I’ve simply overlooked it. I use the same lock tight that stuff comes in a pump that is super nice and handy. I’ve had mine 3 months now. Have beaten it pretty seriously and haven’t had to put so much as a screwdriver to it. So that awesome. It’s due for some maintenance. Normally within a week or so I’ve destroyed driveshafts or smoked gears and bumpers. But this Arrma blx100 granite had been flawless.
On the typhon 3s v3 there are 2 empty holes in front of each side of the motor module and you can put 2 m4 x 8mm button top screws that fit perfectly to where you cant even stick a piece of paper in between. This helps prevent the motor mount from bending.
Tip number 6,change the plastic spur gear for the metal upgraded one if you intend to bash n jump it hard,also the stock shocks bend pretty easily so if you don't wanna spend too much upgrading them just fit a senton front bumper for extra protection. Your velcro tip is genius by the way 😊
When going from the plastic to metal and u buy just the gear to upgrade the gear make sure to add a 4th slipper clutch plate and a better screw.
I went ahead and bought the metal gear and a set of slippers when I ordered the car, cuz I burned thru so many plastic gears on my Kyosho nitro (& there was no metal option).
A metal spur is a band-aid. Yeah, it's tougher but it will transfer energy to other parts of the driveline AND it doesn't address the real issue, which is mesh, mostly the result of a bent motor plate. Hot Racing makes a great plate but the M2C motor plate/brace combo is amazing. A metal gearbox is also a great option. I have the M2C pieces and, 4-5 yrs in, I'm only on my second plastic spur!
@@jerryvolpini7987could you post links to the items mentioned. I would love to have your success
2 of my shocks are already bent 😂
Got a Granite, already lost a wheel (so threadlocked the 4), had a servo failure (upgraded with a jx servo and a 25t servo saver from yeahrun) and bent the motor mount (m2c upgrade on the way).
That's 3 out of 5 already.
Wasn't aware of the velcro mod. I'll try it.
For the Hex, depending the the wheells you wanna upgrade there's also a 17mm hex adapter. But Louise MT tire range exists in 14mm hex.
Got another tip for you : close the small holes on the chassis under the servo with a 3d printed cap or a piece of ducktape. It prevent small rocks and dust to stack under electro module.
Thanks for your video, always great quality and straight to the point :)
good suggestions
Hi Razor- One 3S tip I have is using the Outcast 4S shocks on the 3S. They fit nicely and very durable and I think better performance. It's super beefy compared to stock but still fits.
The velcro mod is a great idea! Your videos are great, thanks for sharing.
On my and a friend's recently bought Granites, there was loctite on the axle screws, BUT, a couple of my hubs and one of his were loose enough to remove by my fingers. The loose hubs made us paranoid and we checked every screw we could get to without tearing the whole truck apart, and everything was fine.
Definitely upgrade the servo before you even get started . Mine broke 3 minutes into my first run because I took a turn a little fast and rolled it. The stock one on mine had plastic gears .
The only times I've ever bent the motor mount was when I sent it about 20-25 feet in the air and landed completely sideways. Other than that, I felt absolutely no need to upgrade the motor mount.
seeing the car crashing down onto the ground hurts you more than the car itself
@@Howard25 you gotta make that "Ooooooo" face 😆
Seen guys use hot glue around their motor to give it a little cushion to keep it in place....given the motors not getting too hot it should be a good idea. Hot glue also peels right off with a straight blade screwdriver if you ever need to replace or remove your motor 😁
@@V8chump just use a rubber puffer you can find by Ikea and everywhere, these transparent round things with a flat surface with glue underneath
RPM Granite arms do have plenty of clearance for the shocks in the vortex, so that could be an option too!
@Greg Mancari Thanks, good to know 👍
Thanks for the tips, I'll be doing this to my 3S stuff today before tomorrow's bash session. Love the channel, thanks for educating us RC newbs.
been thrashin the life out of my big rock 3s now a couple of months. only upgrade i found it needed was a dirt cover to keep stones out (as a stone killed composite shaft like a lathe) and your brilliant idea with the velcro.
It’s funny I’m watching this video from 2 years ago, and I just recently, within a month, bought the granite and had this very thing happen while driving in my driveway. The rear right wheel just flew off and rolled down my driveway 😂 Luckily it was at a low speed. And just as you stated, I realized the set screw was still in place which made me feel like I’d won the lottery 😂 Anyway I also used thread lock when I reassembled it. Although I will admit, I haven’t done the other 3 wheels yet 😬 Maybe that should be my weekend project 😂
These are all great tips! I am an experienced RC’er and i wouldn’t have thought of these unless something broke.
Great vid. I like the idea of witching to 12mm instead of the 17mm hub conversion. Thanks
For someone who is looking for this, i just got mine this week and it already has locktite in the tire hub
Great tips! That first one will save a lot of heartache
Yeah, especially that right, rear side! First thing I tell people. It's why I go over an RTR before I ever run it (and why I like kits so much, lol)
@@jerryvolpini7987 exactly, kits are where it's at. Rtr stands for "ready to repair" these days
I just bought this yesterday. It's my first rc car. I have no idea what I'm doing so your videos are very helpful!
Thanks for the tips! Dec 2022 3s Typhon owner here. Good news, I checked the axles and they were already thread locked.
Thanks
Good to know as I just ordered one.
Mate thank you very much I've got the arrma vortex for my grandson for chirstmas and ordered spur gear and will be getting 12mm hex and fixing these problems. Again thank you very much and be safe 👍😁😁
NIce vid.. To tighten the drive shafts all you have to do is loosen the bottom knuckle bolt. Remove the pin and it will come out.
good info!
I think it's worth mentioning for the people who have problems diagnosing stripped spur gears. If the plates bend your pinion and spur gear aren't alined correctly and wil strip out the nylon spur gear.
Appreciate the info and upload, keep on doing what you!
Followed all your tips EXCEPT thread-locking the drives to the wheels. Figured ARRMA must have sorted this problem now after 12 months of your video being live. Sure enough today front N/S wheel bounced off over the horizon!
Very helpful video.
I've had my Vorteks around 10 months. On my second battery pack, my third set of tires is almost worn out, and my third body shell is already cracked.
So I've driven mine a bit.
Totally agree with Loctite-ing everything, especially the wheel nuts, as Vorteks tires are notorious for flying off, and I have the hardware store axle nut replacements to show for it lol.
My stock servo is still going, but I've heard many have issues. Haven't gone to 12mm cuz I got tires with adapters, and recently rediscovered Duratrax (belted!) and Powerhobby tires.
After bending and reshaping the motor mount so many times it wouldn't go straight anymore, I bought an RCAWD aluminum gear box and haven't had issues since.
I would also recommend getting a steel spur gear, as the stock plastic one may go out early. Mine did. Of course, I do run my Vorteks relatively hard, using up a battery in 10-12 minutes of run time.
I think later, and I'm at that point now, some aluminum upgrades are good. Hubs and links, mainly. Wherever you have a metal screw going into plastic, metal will win over time.
Thanks for the video!
Yep... Ive lost wheels and used locktight, bent my motor plate replaced it with the hot racing, and smoked a servo 😅. I have a Typhon and a vorteks. I shouldve watched this a long time ago. Thanks for the tips. Ill definitely be using the velcro and switching to 12mm on my vorteks
Thanks for making this video. I’m looking for upgrades and mods for my granite. Which so far has been bullet proof.
In the latest rev of the drive shafts, they're epoxied on. But I prefer to pull em apart and use some medium strength vibra tight. (Mod 1)
I shredded a spur gear from a small rock getting wedged under my motor. Couldn't have been there for more than 15 minutes and killed the spur gear. So I put a piece of foam gasket around the motor to prevent it from happening again
I put bigger wheels/tires on my grandsons 3s 4x4 Senton. This necessitated a smaller pinion. With the smaller pinion, now the truck is a torque monster! It pulls wheelies easily! Now the problem is, the rear driveshafts cannot handle the torque! Driveshaft upgrade needed!
Followed your instructions for my recently bought Big Rock. Also reinforced the body and set the slipper clutch. My drive shafts already had some Loctite on them.
I was just looking at replacing my axle on my senton however, after watching your amazing video, I found the axle had in fact came unscrewed. Thank you! 👍👏
I figured i would add my 2 cents in. For all the models the weakness i have seen that wasn't mention is the ball joints. Most of them have little flanges on both sides for mounting flush, and i have seen many break. Popping them out and replacing them with aluminum ones is very important imo.
I am also not a fan of the shocks. I have not seen any of them break, but having the top eye built onto the shock body means a whole body replacement if it does break. The Prolines are expensive, but a very worth while upgrade if you plan on running it for a long time.
The last one i have is specific to the Senton. The stock tires are pretty fragile. I blew one out on the 3rd run in a straight line on the dirt. A massive piece of it tore off. The whole bead was still very glued on as well. I figured this was a fluke, until it happened 2 more times the same exact way. On one of the front original tires, and again on the back with one of the replacements. The wheels are perfectly fine, but i moved to Proline tires, and have not had a issue since.
The Armma 3s's are beastly, but the few problems they have is really annoying. To make the Senton perfect (imo) brought the price from $339, to about $450, but it is now a super fun and reliable truck that will out handle my buddies Slash 4x4 with an LCG chassis.
Good video, I just got a Senton 3s BLX, and watching your videos really help in what to look for and what I'll need down the road.
Wow, very good explained! Very helpful and a must for every Arrma 3S rig out there. 😘👍👍
thanks BQ!
But the way you did it with the wheel is pretty smart never thought of that
Biggest mod/s I liked so far were the HR pivot balls, new servo, and aluminum bell crank. My BRCC is much more stable and easier to control at high speeds. 2nd was getting a new motor since the stock seized the bearings, I went with a surpass hobby 3665 3500kv motor and love it. There is virtually no more cogging on the esc/stock gearing, actually very impressed with the torque it puts out.
Got any links?
@@CookieManCookies to which ones?
Very good tips. Wish I could have seen this before losing my tires.
thanks for the first tip i saw it mentioned in another video but nobody showed exactly HOW to do it 👍🏽🤙🏽
I got mine today and opened up the driveshaft to put loctite on them. It actually had loctite on the one i took out.
Thanks for tip #1. I've seen you mention that on the ArrmaForum a few times and when I first started I had no idea exactly what you meant. This will help the beginners greatly. Thanks!
Great tips! The Arrma 3s lineup is the best value out there, in my opinion.
Most definitely!
RPM everything on a traxxas in order to bash. Only bent tie rods and broken a arms on my arrmas. Motor bearing replaced once due to a bent mount I didn't check. By far the best value. 👌
Great tips! I'll have to give that velcro mod a whirl. I've also seen people dremel out a slot in the chassis beneath the spur gear to keep dirt and debris from collecting. I've found that Arrma makes a direct fit 25t servo saver for non-spektrum servos as well. Model #AR340151
The slot has been really effective since I upgraded to the metal spur gear it keeps the gears cooler
Will be adding that velcro next time i jave the motor out...just not looking forward to re-seating it...it never wants to match the teeth on the rear and won't push on.
I've found they have a huge weakness to gravel and small rocks. My first time out i spent more time clearing rocks from the steering servo than actually driving. We added a bunch of screen material to keep debris from getting inside and it makes outings sooo much nicer!
We also had that issue with the axle screws...lol...until we loctited everything!
I just upgraded to the m2c motor mount, but I've had very good luck straightening my stock one on an anvil so far when I've bent it. I'll admit not everyone has an anvil lying around. I also drilled a small hole below the power module clutch gear to let dust out, but I now wish I'd seen this and tried the velcro first. Big fan of the AR550044 for tyres/wheels
, they fit right on the stock hexes. Think they're off the granite.
Great video. I just got my big rock today and the end drive shaft already popped off
I just got me a Arrma 3s and this video was a big help
Motor-Mount-Plate-Bent: Just put a rubber puffer under the end of the motor. It acts like a motor brace on the non-supported site.
For everyone who is looking at an arrma 3s I got my big rock yesterday and the driveshafts were already threadlocked when I went to add some so it looks like arrma is addressing this issue
#3 totally happened to me. Exact same thing. Wish i saw your video earlier. Seems understated but that's a pretty big design flaw of the Vorteks. Thanks for this video. Very helpful.
Yes, mod1! It happened to me just recently. The wheel just came off. It was a hassle screwing the axle part together but I now see I did it wrong. I dissassembled the axle joint to reach the screw.......
I went 17mm hex and pro line badlands, love it
TBH that's a fairly extensive list, couple of pretty obvious flaws too.. LOVE the content mate, always hanging for the next instalment 👍🏼
This is a great resource, thanks for making this video. I hope Arrma realizes how much r&d you have saved them!
just bought a granite, will do those mods
R. D style..that dude just flat out blasts these rcs
legend
I just (May 2021) received a v3 Big Rock. It had plenty of loctite on the drive shafts.
Got Big rock, was changing to 17mm hex, so I did shafts with lock tight , lucky I watched this fron one was loose as hell.
Ok I'm dead serious. I watched this video this morning and saw tip #1 and thought ya I doubt that will ever happen to me. Not even an hour later I go out and drive my granite and the wheel rolls all the way down the street. Now I'm running back to this video and thread locking all the screws
Watching this video curses your truck to lose its axles unless you follow the directions.
Thanks for this. Another essential upgrade in my eyes is: HOT Racing Aluminum Pivot Ball Set atf160b02
I feel like it was just yesterday the 3s line ranged from $299-$320 range, but they are going at $369 now? (As of 9/2021). Did something change? Are they including the new radios in them now? That’s quite a jump in price…
I notice that! I too wonder what made the price change
What happened to my senton account was first the front bumper broke, but not to the point of needing a replacement. Then the tires disintegrated on the pavement so I got a new set, then THE SERVO DIED, but, it was still under warranty so I got a free one
Rigyt on the money Razor. Rpm arms could have easily made this list too. But Most important... keeping dirt out of the power module. It not only screws with the slipper bearings, it will seize the front motor bearing. Mine just blew, and horizon is sending a replacement motor, which is nice of them, but its backorderred... I've been waiting 9 months for my replacement felony body that was damaged when I bought it. I've owned my typhon for 2 months, it has run 3 days due to broken backordered parts. In fact, most parts for these trucks are backordered. Even know it's a good car with a great design, I'm kind of wishing that I didn't buy it. I probably won't buy another arrma as the parts support is negligent. It's a shame. I've nodded my typhon into a lwb monster truck. It's beautiful. I hope I get to drive my 600$ paperweight before the end of the year.
you're right about the motor bearings. that too!
Love the velcro tip! I'll def be doing that next time I've got the module out.
Love the Velcro tip! I'll def be doing that next time I've got the module out.
These Chinese servos on amazon have greatly exaggerated torque ratings. I wouldn't be surprised if that 25kg servo is about 15kg. Both my Vorteks and Big Rock servos failed within 10 packs. I replaced them with Spectrum S652 all steel gears 18 kg servos from their 6s 1/8 scale line and so far they have been running great (fingers crossed). There's a million S652 brand new take offs from 1/8th scale line being sold on eBay for $25 shipped and they match 23 tooth servo horn too. This I believe is the best servo upgrade path for the money. Assuming they last. I'm about 10 packs in on a replacement one so not extensively tested yet but I'm hopeful. S652 is over 2 times more powerful than S651 they put in 3s line so I'm hopeful it won't burn out as quickly as original. Arrma loves to put underpowered electronics in their cards. Their 1/8th scale (S652) servos should go into 1/10th scale, and 1/8th scale RCs should get an even more powerful servo.
got the m2c motor plate and the one that holds battery strap things no joke was $$ tho and did crack slipper hub ruined the bearing and cracked the gearcase too LOL
I found the stock bearings suck also....at least on the V2 granite they seized up in no time....
Great video....i'll be applying these mods !
Im surprised you didn't add the mod where u put the hole in the chassis below the spur gear to let all the dirt and junk out so it doesn't pool up
Got me a Hot Racing aluminum servo saver with Fix Link steering for Arrma 1/10 Steering from Amazon which it comes with a 23/24/25 tooth spline adapters so for now I'm using the stock servo until I get a eco power servo
I'd swap out any spektrum electronics Including any of those smart batteries..
I would also recommend changing the spur gear to it is plastic from the factory and if your jumping the vehicle it will destroy it!
Once the motor mount bends you are more likely to start stripping spur gears as well 👍
very true
Agree with most here except the servo. Definitely go with a 35kg servo minimum. Imo.
upgraded servo to a 35kg one just for fun, will also upgrade the esc soon since im on my thrid on warranty, they are just bad and undersized tbh.
threw on the granite tires with a 15t pinion, it runs very well with those bigass tires on now :D
but overall the 3sblx lineup is a tough little kit , cheap and alot of fun
Upgrade to 17mm hexes not 12mm.
May as well loc-tite the screws on the other end of the driveshaft that go in to the diffs too.
Nice video! Maybe you can try the carpet track again after these upgrades?
Nice how to video but I'm waiting on a new chassis for my Vorteks , snapped it in half lol 😆
I like your list. I think the stock shocks are ok, but they could definitely be replaced with higher end ones.
Hi Razor RC. Great video. I have a Kimbrough 124 servo saver now. Do you have a picture of how you filled yours down and which way up down you had the bolt and nut (m3?). Many thanks in advance.
Would be nice with a similar video on the 6S cars. Thanks!
Great Tips and relatively simple fixes to an already solid platform.
Do you cover the motor module hole completely? That is you stick both velcro pieces together?
no, just the soft (loop) side
Awesome video! Definitely helpful and informative. Going to locktite those screws today on my VORTEKS and Granite!
This video is outdated for a few mods btw, my typhon 3s v3 in december has threadlock on all of them and i couldnt even yank the last part of drive shaft from the wheel.
I'd say you must not have tried to find good replacement tires/wheels that fit the Vorteks... cause about the only ones I've seen are DuraTrax and come in 14mm... Everything else seems to be 5 inch outer diameter which is nothing but grind on the chassis while turning at speed.
It's like change for changes sake. Going from 14mm down 12mm is ridiculous all you doing is making it weaker. If you want to change it go up to 17mm. That new engine mount has proven to be no better than stock, so don't throw away your stock one just to replace it with basically the same. The engine mount problem is it's secured only on one end, if you add support for the other end, problem solved, this is also why that other extended support mount is better. The servo saver gives at the right moment to save your servo. If you change it because you "think" it should be stiffer, you are no longer saving the servo, so it breaks.
When I tighten my drive shafts bolt on my typhon I usually hold the drive my drive shaft and give it a nice ugga dugga
Nice Informative vid! Thanks for sharing 👍
This was a super informative video. Thanks.
You're welcome!
How about swapping out the transmitter and receiver set? From the Spectrum to Flysky Noble NB4?
Thanks for the great Arrma information.
Hello, great video by the way! Quick question if you don’t mind or even others from the comment section. All are welcome. Do you have any recommendations on the Arrma Typhon and the 12mm hex? I ordered some wheel axles for a Vorteks with hopes they’d fit. Thank you for your time!
I bought a Granite V3 last week for my daughter. When i pulled the trigger for the first time i noticed that the wheels are very wobbly....is that normal? I did asked my LHS but in my country most shop owners are not the nicest people so of course they said that is was normal for a rc car in this price range. Did yours wobble very much? It are really the wheels that are the problem, they are correctly installed on the hexes and it is not a axle problem.
What country are you in? Yes, it’s very common, I wouldn’t worry about it. Mine wobble a lot too.
@@RazorRC
Thank you for the quick reply! I am a little less worried now about the wheels. I come from The Netherlands, also known as 'Holland'. I am into rc crawling for a few years now but i recently got into some faster stuff. I bought a X-maxx, Felony, UDR and the Granite for my daughter. The Granite is the first 'cheap' rc i have bought so i had my concerns about the wheel wobble. My daughter is seven years old and has very good throttle, brake and steering control for a kid her age. Of course daddy is a very happy man to get to play with rc's together.
The next step is installing a FlySky GT5 six channel transmitter with the BS6 receiver so she can drive just a little bit better because of the gyro in there. The Granite will not be upgraded further, it's fast enough for a small kid.
Again, thank you.
I put a flysky gt5 in my kid’s granite too. If you plan on using the gyro go ahead and upgrade the servo
Great tips. Thank you for sharing !
A few questions…doesn’t Hot Racing make a aluminum servo saver for the Arrma 3s? Also, is it worth wild to convert the wheel hex’s to 17mm instead of your recommended 12mm? More wheel options or less/doesn’t work??
Great vid, I'm taking my 3s typhon apart now, the rear diff doesn't spin freely when the carrier is tightened....if I loosen the 2 screws it spins but has a tight spot. This as a brand new car and I heard it when I first drove it, is it OK to leave those 2 screws a little loose or what should I be looking for to keep the ring and pinion spinning free......thanks
good stuff here!!! Thanks for this!
Man, you make it look so easy. I have a VORTEX, that smoked the in 5 packs.....or at least that is what seems to be wrong. I tried arrma to see if I could fit a blx120 on it, but every answer was different . I bought a BLX100 yesterday, and it still won't run. I have steering inputs that run the motor e-z and to no avoidable problem, she won't run. Is the terra firma esc, different from the BLX100 version???? I get tires spinning forward, no reverse (forward and reverse both run forward with no brakes.). I have no steering at all. Can ANYONE help me with this stupid problem????
very helpful video, thank you 👍
What are the weird wire clips that come with the Arrma 3S? Anyone? Just curious I’ve been thru the book a few times and they aren’t mentioned or I’ve simply overlooked it. I use the same lock tight that stuff comes in a pump that is super nice and handy. I’ve had mine 3 months now. Have beaten it pretty seriously and haven’t had to put so much as a screwdriver to it. So that awesome. It’s due for some maintenance. Normally within a week or so I’ve destroyed driveshafts or smoked gears and bumpers. But this Arrma blx100 granite had been flawless.