6 Chain Tensioners Tested | Motorized Bicycle | Bike Berry
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- Have you ever wondered which chain tensioner is best for your motorized bike? This video from Bike Berry takes a look at 6 different chain tensioners that are designed to be used with motorized bicycles. The video examines the features and performance of each tensioner, providing an in-depth look at the pros and cons of each product. It also offers tips on how to choose the best chain tensioner for your motorized bicycle, so you can get the most out of your ride. With its informative and helpful content, this video is a must-watch for anyone looking to find the right chain tensioner for their motorized bike. Let’s Roll!
Stock Pulley
www.bikeberry.com/products/ch...
Spring single pulley
www.bikeberry.com/products/bb...
Spring double pulley
www.bikeberry.com/products/bb...
Case spring Tensioner
www.bikeberry.com/products/2-...
Billet spring tensioner
www.bikeberry.com/products/pi...
Arch Tensioner
www.bikeberry.com/products/bb...
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Chapters
0:00 - Introduction
1:44 - Different Types of Chain Tensioner
2:50 - Basic Chain Tensioner
3:20 - Spring Idler Pulley
4:06 - Double Pulley Spring Tensioner
5:13 - Case Spring Tensioner
6:35 - Billet Spring Tensioner
8:51 - Arch Tensioner
11:20 - Rating the Tensioners
16:45 - Wrap Up!
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Great information as always. In my experience the tensioner should always be mounted for the bottom chain. The top part has all the engine torque on it. Second the tensioner should be mounted as close to the engine as possible to minimize deflection. It puts less strain on the links. Finally I love the versatility and security of the arch tensioner
😊9
😮8😢😮😮😊
I don't like the tensioner that comes with the kits because I've ruined 2 tires and I would worry to much about it going into the spokes. I ride with the spring tensioner that mounts to the engine case and I put a skateboard wheel as the tensioner wheel,chain doesn't slip off or grind into the wheel and my bike rides smoother. Great video tho!
This⬆️
Wow great video! I’m on your fb page and recently posted my homemade “X factor” … took heat for drilling small holes in my frame, but it works great. Thx for all the hard work you put into this hobby!!
It’s great to have you in the group! Appreciate the kind words!
Tony. On some of my builds I have used an Industrial rubber torsion tensioner, available from my local Industrial Supply store.
make mounting brackets to fit the position on the frame and use the stock guide roller.
Once positioned, tensioning the chain is easy.
I note in your video and others that I have seen, spring tensioners, the spring tends to resonate. This does not happen with the rubber torsion one.
I have not had any issues with the Kit tensioner on any of the 23 Motorized bikes that I have built. I have seen the tensioners improve in quality from 2014, when I started. The first ones the guide roller did not have a bearing. The latest kits with the double bracket and angled adjuster are the best.
I replace all bolts and nuts that come in the kit with High tensile cap bolts and nuts with proper steel washers. .
Good stuff Tony great content very informative....
I used the nice billet one and just drilled a hole on top of sprocket cover right under top bolt for the spring. The angle of spring and additional tension remedied the centering and spacer issue. I also changed gear to a plastic roller and it has MUCH QUIETER mesh and resistance. Thanks for all your videos and advice....Have a GREAT HOLIDAY SEASON!😁 PS, I can share a video or send you a pic if needed.
Much love and gratitude for the educational enlighten ment
Love ur shows help out a lot
Thanks so much!
Now, this was a "great" video. You're responsible for many of the new gen. If you step up your game like this every other day...
Well thank you 😊
I've done em all and customized them by changing the mini sprocket for a wheel on the case mounted ones. I like the duel wheel and arch without mini u-bolt
Just get rid of the slack in the chain all together you're probably wondering well how can you do that if the links are only so big you take one out too many it's too small too tight you put spacers on the brackets for the motor mounts it's adjusting the motor itself you can move it forward slightly if you have the room inside your frame you'll be able to move it forward and maybe even slightly up this will take your slack out of your chain eliminating the need for a chain tensioner eliminate as many moving Parts as possible on any type of machine and you will have less room for error and breakdowns simple is better.
Hardly ever can you work it out to not need an adjuster. Just saying. IMO after building dozens.
@@MrCbell57 right, slack will always return
Best one i ever got was just like the bare bones spring type like the one in your background at the start of the video modified with some other parts. I work in a steel stamping shop and we used to run a part we called the boomerang because it looked like one. It had a few holes punched into it that when the part was bolted to the bottom and top bars of the frame the tensioner arm could bolt on and the spring hooked into a hole on the part. There was another hole I fed a bolt through so when turning the bike over the tensioner arm would stop stretching all the way down, but still had enough clearance to function while riding. Never had an issue with it
Great video thanks for yout time ,I have tried several tentioners ,for me,the arch tentioner is the best ,I aded a second puley ,so is mind free ,
I have tried 4 different tensioners and found only the Arch tensioner to be truly reliable in design. The spring tensioner that I bought for my friends bike pulled the bearing through the mount and failed within 1 hour. The stock tensioner with the 2 straps stripped out the bolts and nuts before even getting tight. I even tried a small tack weld, Unfortunately the tensioner itself bent due to cheap metal. Cool video though, I like that you tried so many of them.
Yea the bolts are like a soft aluminum. I ended up going to local hardware store to get better quality. I had to cut a bolt off on the rag joint it was stripped so much.
Espetacular!!!🇧🇷
I would recommend beefing up those springs that come with the tensioner they're to thin ,I've used motorcycle kickstand springs, they don't bounce around so much.
Just from eyeballing it I would say an ideal setup would be a tensioner very far forward and an additional one very far back. Tensioners seemed to be all designed with a monoshock frame in mind where perfect alignnent under extreme conditions exist. I just went from a stock one to a simple three bolt case mounted, only because failure of the stock one would throw it into my rear wheel. Im only taking her on asphalt and i keep my speed down.
Links to the chain tensioners
Yup, I added them in the description! Thank you!
great video . the last chain tensioner i guest you can't youse the chain guard ?
A quick note, make sure the chain tensioner runs parallel to the chain! on my beach cruiser, I had to bend the main plate in a vice to get it lined up, and it works flawlessly.
My original chain tensioner that came with my engine kit .Twisted and went into my spokes and tore them out
Once I hit 25 mph it dawned on me that if that tensioner goes in my spokes I'm a deadman
The one I bought was the number one rated the curve bar safer and secure option only option In my opinion
I ended up not using them as I wasn’t impressed with the quality, I ended up fitting a Jack shaft kit, and now I have x8 gears to use with the motor, a far better upgrade , use a stronger e-bike chain and you have to replace your rear sprocket set more often (which is understandable)..
It’s best if you have the centrifugal type clutch for this set up and ease off the throttle when shifting gears..🤔
I’m interested in the jack shaft assembly.
It sounds good.I'd like to know which brand you used.The 1 I'd saved to my 'Wish List' isn't available anymore.Thanks.
How do I assemble the billet spring chain tensioner mine came disassembled and I don't know where to place the bearing and the plastic wheel..
Hey Tony I have the case spring that mounts on the engine only problem I'm having is the long arm that the the spring and pully attach to keep coming lose making the arm flop what can I do to keep the bolt tight so I don't back off
Thank you for this, Tony!
I got a new motor kit, 50mm board out. I was running my bike with no chain tensioner for a long time with no issues. Now I have to get my chain about 1/8-1/4" out away from the new brackets for clearance. My thing is the new chain is longer and I'm not sure how many links it should be cut at than completely right fit, I was told about half inch longer?
What tooth sprocket do you have? Thinking about doing rear disc brake.
Hey Berry that bike behind you in this video is the kind of bike I want to put my moto on with a 32 tooth so it will run better I have it on a rock creek huffy 18 speed and it won't run faster than 28 miles an hour and I want it to run faster like 45 or 50 miles an hour.
i think ill go with the arch one. thx for the vid 🤙
I’ve seen some builders eliminate the tensioner altogether and just shorten the chain. Is there a downside to that other than when you need to remove the rear wheel you would need to remove the master link.
maybe when your chain needs tightened. when it gets worn out and stretches the tensioner would be nice for fine fine adjustments
আপনার এই তথ্য গুলোর জন্য ধন্যবাদ!! 🇧🇩
I have question for you i buy a anbull 49cc engine i found out i got a old clutch in my gearbox i wonder if that ever happento you
Nope never happened to me.
Well am a first timer buyer of a anbull 49cc well it park more than i ride it cuz so i found out i have a old clutch in my gearbox am from Kingston Jamaica i just have a love for these engine love to ride far out journey so i get know my engine a little and found out the clutch was problem all along i can tell you the engine runs very beautiful i rode it but few times but i have to park it once more for another 3 months or more don't have the money to buy right now just have wait until a job comes up blessing
That double tensioner is secure. I really like the arch. I would want to weld it on the frame. ( bummer I cant weld aluminium.)
stock tensioners worked fine for me when its used properly on an oval chainstay, i did blow up a wheel once when i had rubber between it on a circle chainstay.
For sure.
Brother can I ask what the size of your disk brake adapter is it 203mm by 180mm?
Do they make spare rollers, for the kit pulley-tensioner?
Just switched to Arch idler hope it goes okay
Is the curved style chain tensioner something you built ? Or can it be bough from somewhere?
Link in description my friend.
Don't use the cheap bolts that come with it! what I did was went to my local hardware store, match the size of the cheap bolts, to get reliable one's, sturdy one's, brass works extremely well. machine nuts and bolts. you literally can replace them all for under 4 dollars! Very cheap but will leave you with one less headache, thank me later!
I did exactly that. Them bolts that come in the kit are pretty cheap and strip out with no effort. The lock washers were even popping out.
Top
The best tensioner would be a weld-in arch but I don’t want to hack my cruiser
Can you recommend the best most reliable engine. I'm doing my 1st build and want the most reliable engine I can get. Thx.
BikeBerry stage 4 has treated me well! Link to site in description.
Don't go with the stage 4 the upgrades aren't very good better off buying the stock kit and buying the upgrades separately getting the ones you want
@@tonytaylor5087 Stage 4 has treated me well also. Haven't had any problems with the engine itself, hardware is a different story.
Can you use two at once
I find this to be the hardest part of getting these engines set up especially if you have a small frame. I honestly love the idea of that curve tensioner, it is the only one that looks reliable. I have tried the spring tensioner and the stock one and both do not really work for my set up and I now have damaged spokes after having the chain drop off too many times. I think best of both worlds would be to design a tensioner that is both adjustable and uses a spring but uses the same mounting as the curve one so that it always keeps the chain where it is supposed to be.
Agreed
How did you fit sprocket over disc brake mount?
Looks like the sprocket fit between the disc brake and the spokes. Intriguing
Use rubber tape on your frame to help with clamps
vc não acha melhor por o kit com polia e correia dentada
What do you mean?
@@tonytaylor5087 R$ 230,99 11%de desconto | Movimentação da correia não mais 415 corrente apto 2-stroke 66cc 80cc motor motorizado bicicleta roda traseira polia roda dentada 50t equivalente
@@aristeujunior8908 It slips quite a bit if they get wet or you use an engine with more torque.
I haven’t tried the belt drive system yet. From what others say I’m thinking it won’t be as reliable as a chain. Look forward to testing one though.
is it better to have no tensioner at all
Yes, if you have enough room in your bike to adjust your engine mounting enough to have proper chain tension.
10:50 best one imo
Half moon/arch or nothing, you do not want a failure at 35-40mph
Update bolts 🔩 8.8 or higher or they all brake
My experience with the arched chain tensioner is that if you don't go fast enough to start the engine and engage the clutch the kick back from the engine can bend the crap out of the arch tensioner. It seems that these are made from cold rolled steel and the metal is very weak. At least the one from BB is. That's where I bought mine. I don't use it since it's garbage now. Just something to be aware of. Tony - i noticed your black arched chain tensioner is thicker than the one BB sold to me. Where did you get it?
The best chain tensioner is none at all. Cut your chain shorter and if needed use a half link. You forgot a chain tensioner, the spring tensioner that has a plastic wheel
My stock tensioner fell apart while riding. I run no tension and it's fine
😂
schwinn occ chopper
I actually modify chain rensioners lol
The best setup is two chain tensions. One right by the motor guiding the chain back into the motor and one right in front of the rear wheel holding the chain like a 4 wheeler does when it’s sliding on the plastic protector. At 3:17 you can watch how his top chain is bouncing everywhere that’s what the second tensioner does is hold that vibration down while the one by the motor is actually keeping the chain tight. Also please don’t be like this guy and just let your chain hit your rear wheel. Dangerous
The best chain tensioner is no chain tensioner.
Try 420 chain stronger
Couldn’t you just shorten the chain and not run a tensioner, seems that would be simpler while eliminating another part that could malfunction or break….
Not enough wheel adjustment
@@diatonicdoug6525you can always shorten the chain to make it work, I only needed to shorten the bicycle chain and eliminated the tensioner. Best improvement on my bike…
Best tensioner is no tensioner 😅
The chain is way too close to uour tire
There is a fundamental flaw in a drive chain design that is Pinched so tightly that it virtually meets itself as it travels the Torture course. Bad design, although millions of rat bikes can't be wrong, right?