Best place to check for AC ripple voltage is at alternator with positive lead on B+ post on alternator and negative lead on alternator case, but you can also do it the way you mentioned, and you can also do it the way he did it in the video.
Hello. your videos are very educational and visually beautiful. can you share what program you use to create lessons with animation, if it’s not a secret.
When AC on in about 5-10 minutes (depends how hot outside like (+35) - (+40C)) the voltage drops to 11.8V. With AC off the voltage is back to 13.5V. Replaced 3 alternators, cleaned up terminals, replaced battery and ground wires. It happens only with AC On. Any thoughts?
@@bernardocisneros4402 2000 Toyota Sienna, Same thing on 2000 Honda CRV. Cigarette lighter outlet Voltmeter, which is accurate up to 0.2V. I can't measure voltage otherwise while I'm driving.
@@SergSpace You need to recreate the conditions by turning on your van and A/C and let it idle for the 5 to 10 minutes. When you see that the voltage drops to 11.8V, take voltage readings at battery and alternator separately. The positive probe of your voltmeter on the B+ post of the alternator and the negative probe of voltmeter on alternator housing. You might have to scratch the alternator housing to get a good connection. Remember this voltage. Now take a voltage reading at the battery. Positive probe of voltmeter on positive battery post and negative probe of voltmeter on negative battery post. The probes of the voltmeter have to be on the battery posts NOT on the battery clamps. This is where people mess up. Now compare the voltage taken at the alternator to the voltage at the battery. The difference should not be more than 1 volt. If it is, then you have a voltage drop problem on the positive side or the negative side between the alternator and the battery. You need to do voltage drop test on the each of them separately. First do the positive side then do the negative side. The voltage drop on the negative side shouldn't be more than 0.2 volts and 0.5 volts on the positive side. All of the tests I just described, need to be done with the van running. I highly doubt that you're truly having this issue on 2 cars. I think it might be the plug in voltmeter that's giving you false readings. I'm not there so I can't know for sure, but you can by verifying those voltages with a voltmeter while van is idling and plug in voltmeter is showing 11.8V.
@@bernardocisneros4402 I didn't need to recreate conditions by turning on van and A/C and let it idle for the 5 to 10 minutes - no need, because when outside is + 40C it happens in a minute or so, once I set gear on Drive (or Reverse it doesn't matter) and drive like 20ft then stop. Doubt what you want. This is the fact. Only on Honda the voltage drops usually to 12V. This car alternator was checked with 3 different mechanics in different repair shops besides me. They checked the voltage drop, I was right there and saw what they were doing. The hot wire along with prong and ground wires were replaced. Nothing helped. Actually one thing helped. I sold 2000 Toyota sienna and got 2014 Sienna. That one usually holds the voltage at 13.2V regardless if AC on or off.
@SergSpace I'm really good at electrical stuff and I love solving challenges. The harder the challenge the more I love it. I wish you lived in the Chicagoland area, so I could take a look at it. I've never had something I couldn't solve. I was laughing when I read how you solved the problem on the Sienna: by selling it. You must live in Canada, Australia, or Europe because here in the USA, we still use degrees Fahrenheit.
Depends on the state of your battery. If it doesn’t need a hefty charge, there’s no need for the alternator to produce it. Try putting on your headlights, high beams, fog lights, heater fa full pelt, rear screen demister and everything and test again. I would expect the current output to rise significantly. If it doesn’t, I’d be asking questions.
@@madhammerchris i tried 3 different meters they were +- 3, 4.5-5.1 amps that was with everything running on accessories, ground and hot wire to and from battery to alternator are good
Ok. So your meters seem consistent. I expect your cheaper meter was giving the lower current? And I assume you have inserted the meter between the alternator and the battery? If you have managed to insert the meter between the battery and the car AFTER you started it, that would indicate a net charging rate to your battery of that amount which would be quite decent. You’re probably aware that 5A at 12v is equivalent of 60 Watts which is the normal output of one headlamp bulb. Depends where you inserted your meter and how.
@@madhammerchris so i tried it again at 2500rpm with all accessories on and at normal temperature, with coolant fan running, and the amperage went down to 2.7A @ 2500rpm but its around 5A @ 600rpm. is this normal?
Depends on your vehicle. Some newer vehicles can have up to 17 volts while older ones only up to 15 volts. If you have an older car, then it's a bad voltage regulator. Depending on you year, make, and model, the regulator can be in the alternator, in a module, in engine computer or a combination of the 3. My 2016 Nissan Frontier has its voltage regulation controlled by all 3.
Overrunning alternator pulley. Yes, he slipped that one in, didn’t he? Apparently newer alternators have a freewheel assembly, a bit like a bicycle. I’m still learning about them atm.
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Thanks i solved my battery warning after watching video sir. From Nigeria
Best auto diagnostic channel on youtube!
Thank you so much! Thanks for supporting the channel 👍
Nope kids! The best automotive diagnostics YT channel is: Automotive Test Solutions.
Followed by ScannerDanner, Pine Hollow something and few others.
WOT only 13 comments for this awesome video, rather unlucky for the 2.5K views i'd say ! this video deserves at least 20 Million likes 🙂
Very well explained looking forward to see more videos...Thanks 👍
Very good, what an excellent teacher, these are great videos, thank you
Thank you! Glad you like them 👍
Thanks this very informative video
Thank you, we're glad you liked it!
Brilliant vaido very informative and detailed keep the knowledge coming
Should the AC leakage test be taken from alternator output to ground?
Best place to check for AC ripple voltage is at alternator with positive lead on B+ post on alternator and negative lead on alternator case, but you can also do it the way you mentioned, and you can also do it the way he did it in the video.
Well detailed .
Will you actually about " relay "
You're doing this extraordinary, Greetings from Kurdistan.
always love to see your videos , thanks
Thanks for watching! 👍
Thanks 😊
Awesome vid!
Thank you, you make my day
Hello. your videos are very educational and visually beautiful. can you share what program you use to create lessons with animation, if it’s not a secret.
This man is s professor
Nice
When AC on in about 5-10 minutes (depends how hot outside like (+35) - (+40C)) the voltage drops to 11.8V. With AC off the voltage is back to 13.5V. Replaced 3 alternators, cleaned up terminals, replaced battery and ground wires. It happens only with AC On.
Any thoughts?
Are you checking the voltage at the battery or alternator? What is the year, make, and model of your vehicle?
@@bernardocisneros4402 2000 Toyota Sienna, Same thing on 2000 Honda CRV. Cigarette lighter outlet Voltmeter, which is accurate up to 0.2V. I can't measure voltage otherwise while I'm driving.
@@SergSpace You need to recreate the conditions by turning on your van and A/C and let it idle for the 5 to 10 minutes. When you see that the voltage drops to 11.8V, take voltage readings at battery and alternator separately. The positive probe of your voltmeter on the B+ post of the alternator and the negative probe of voltmeter on alternator housing. You might have to scratch the alternator housing to get a good connection. Remember this voltage. Now take a voltage reading at the battery. Positive probe of voltmeter on positive battery post and negative probe of voltmeter on negative battery post. The probes of the voltmeter have to be on the battery posts NOT on the battery clamps. This is where people mess up. Now compare the voltage taken at the alternator to the voltage at the battery. The difference should not be more than 1 volt. If it is, then you have a voltage drop problem on the positive side or the negative side between the alternator and the battery. You need to do voltage drop test on the each of them separately. First do the positive side then do the negative side. The voltage drop on the negative side shouldn't be more than 0.2 volts and 0.5 volts on the positive side. All of the tests I just described, need to be done with the van running. I highly doubt that you're truly having this issue on 2 cars. I think it might be the plug in voltmeter that's giving you false readings. I'm not there so I can't know for sure, but you can by verifying those voltages with a voltmeter while van is idling and plug in voltmeter is showing 11.8V.
@@bernardocisneros4402 I didn't need to recreate conditions by turning on van and A/C and let it idle for the 5 to 10 minutes - no need, because when outside is + 40C it happens in a minute or so, once I set gear on Drive (or Reverse it doesn't matter) and drive like 20ft then stop. Doubt what you want. This is the fact. Only on Honda the voltage drops usually to 12V. This car alternator was checked with 3 different mechanics in different repair shops besides me. They checked the voltage drop, I was right there and saw what they were doing. The hot wire along with prong and ground wires were replaced. Nothing helped. Actually one thing helped. I sold 2000 Toyota sienna and got 2014 Sienna. That one usually holds the voltage at 13.2V regardless if AC on or off.
@SergSpace I'm really good at electrical stuff and I love solving challenges. The harder the challenge the more I love it. I wish you lived in the Chicagoland area, so I could take a look at it. I've never had something I couldn't solve. I was laughing when I read how you solved the problem on the Sienna: by selling it. You must live in Canada, Australia, or Europe because here in the USA, we still use degrees Fahrenheit.
❤❤greetings for u from Iraq
Is that Alan Shearer?
my ameter only reads 3-4amps is something wrong with my meter or alternator ?
Depends on the state of your battery. If it doesn’t need a hefty charge, there’s no need for the alternator to produce it. Try putting on your headlights, high beams, fog lights, heater fa full pelt, rear screen demister and everything and test again. I would expect the current output to rise significantly. If it doesn’t, I’d be asking questions.
@@madhammerchris i tried 3 different meters they were +- 3, 4.5-5.1 amps that was with everything running on accessories, ground and hot wire to and from battery to alternator are good
Ok. So your meters seem consistent. I expect your cheaper meter was giving the lower current? And I assume you have inserted the meter between the alternator and the battery? If you have managed to insert the meter between the battery and the car AFTER you started it, that would indicate a net charging rate to your battery of that amount which would be quite decent. You’re probably aware that 5A at 12v is equivalent of 60 Watts which is the normal output of one headlamp bulb. Depends where you inserted your meter and how.
@@madhammerchris I put all one at a time between the output of the alternator and the the battery.
@@madhammerchris so i tried it again at 2500rpm with all accessories on and at normal temperature, with coolant fan running, and the amperage went down to 2.7A @ 2500rpm but its around 5A @ 600rpm. is this normal?
Well crap... Looks like all these test are good minus the oscilloscope.. guess ill buy an alternator
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome 👍 Thanks for watching!
Now please write witch osciloscope is good for car but with cheap price and good mobility?
Amazing video keep it up thanks
Thank you for the video but one question is what could be the error if the generator produces 17 volts?
Depends on your vehicle. Some newer vehicles can have up to 17 volts while older ones only up to 15 volts. If you have an older car, then it's a bad voltage regulator. Depending on you year, make, and model, the regulator can be in the alternator, in a module, in engine computer or a combination of the 3. My 2016 Nissan Frontier has its voltage regulation controlled by all 3.
Sorry, I still have some hair left to pull off. Thanks for the insights.
😂Hope you find the cause of your fault!
you haven;t explained anything about the role and how to test the IBS sensor!!
Irritable bowel syndrome sensor?
KNOWLEDGEABLE
Thanks Nick!👍
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
This guys head looks like my hopes and dreams bright but empty
wtf is an OAP?
Overrunning alternator pulley. Yes, he slipped that one in, didn’t he? Apparently newer alternators have a freewheel assembly, a bit like a bicycle. I’m still learning about them atm.