Brutal! We feel your pain. Thank you for explaining and showing what it takes for a “professional paint job.” The F25c has such beautiful lines that emerge with your hard work to get her primed. Did the saying “Perfection is the enemy of good enough” enter into your mind during your long slog? Kudos to you for putting in the hours needed.
Greg - amazing work! Your prep work will pay off. One suggestion that is too late now. If you raise the boat up a bit, sanding underneath is easier. The stands you have look to have quite a bit of adjustment left. I have found that laying on my back, I want my hands to be about 6" inches in front of my face when I am sanding on my back. You can then sweep back and forth as well as in and out pretty easily. It's a reasonably comfortable position. I can't wait for the final result! BTW - how would you prep if it were factory non-skid? You probably don't want to sand off the non-skid nubs. That is in my future. Thanks!
Hi Mike. Happy Here Comes Winter to you! Those slanted jackstands are maxed out- the threaded rods are only reaching a few inches below the turning nuts. For factory nonskid, I’d look at power wire-brushing, probably at low speed with a wire wheel in a drill. And then the big decision on whether to preserve gelcoat or convert the nonskid to paint…
Yeah,those inspection plates are great. We have them on the big boat, and they are bombproof after six years now. www.armstrongnautical.com/armstrong-boat-deck-plates/
Great work. What schedule did you put on your hardware backing plates ? Thinking of doing the same for mojo since their are some mild delamination around the high stress area on the cabin roof.
That large sheet of backing plate material is approximately 40oz fabric weight (ie four layers of 10oz BD carbon). This would be a good application for fiberglass too. Like two layers of 1708DB glass sold in 4” wide tapes… kind of like making your own thin G10 plate if you vacuum it, or at least clamp it down hard on a workbench during cure.
Brutal! We feel your pain. Thank you for explaining and showing what it takes for a “professional paint job.” The F25c has such beautiful lines that emerge with your hard work to get her primed.
Did the saying “Perfection is the enemy of good enough” enter into your mind during your long slog?
Kudos to you for putting in the hours needed.
Greg - amazing work! Your prep work will pay off. One suggestion that is too late now. If you raise the boat up a bit, sanding underneath is easier. The stands you have look to have quite a bit of adjustment left. I have found that laying on my back, I want my hands to be about 6" inches in front of my face when I am sanding on my back. You can then sweep back and forth as well as in and out pretty easily. It's a reasonably comfortable position. I can't wait for the final result!
BTW - how would you prep if it were factory non-skid? You probably don't want to sand off the non-skid nubs. That is in my future. Thanks!
Hi Mike. Happy Here Comes Winter to you! Those slanted jackstands are maxed out- the threaded rods are only reaching a few inches below the turning nuts. For factory nonskid, I’d look at power wire-brushing, probably at low speed with a wire wheel in a drill. And then the big decision on whether to preserve gelcoat or convert the nonskid to paint…
Greg, I'm exhausted just watching all the prep work...and that is a pretty small boat.
My back is still sore ;). Now gathering materials to start lacing the nets.
yea-ah boss!
Thanks for another great look at your work, those round hatches you put in the ama look awesome ,who makes them ?
Yeah,those inspection plates are great. We have them on the big boat, and they are bombproof after six years now. www.armstrongnautical.com/armstrong-boat-deck-plates/
@@Ravenswingsailing thanks
Great work. What schedule did you put on your hardware backing plates ? Thinking of doing the same for mojo since their are some mild delamination around the high stress area on the cabin roof.
That large sheet of backing plate material is approximately 40oz fabric weight (ie four layers of 10oz BD carbon). This would be a good application for fiberglass too. Like two layers of 1708DB glass sold in 4” wide tapes… kind of like making your own thin G10 plate if you vacuum it, or at least clamp it down hard on a workbench during cure.