Holley carburetors cleaned with muriatic acid one year later..........Check out the results
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2021
- One year later (From Nov 6 2019 - Feb 9 2021) after cleaning my Holley carburetors with muriatic acid processes. This video will show what effects that the muriatic acid had on my carbs one year later stored in the attic, keep in mind one was sprayed and stored with WD-40 and the other one was not. Both carburetors were just set on a shelf in the open air for a little over a year. The next video will be installing one of these Holley's on my engine on the run stand and tuning it. If you liked this video please hit the like and subscribe button if you would like to see the next video. Thanks!
Cleaning process video.... • Best carburetor cleane...
Hi Ronnie - In my experience the iron and steel parts will always rust back if the acid is not totally neutralized. You do that by adding some of that baking soda to the rinse water. Spraying the WD-40 on the carburetor helps to keep moisture from collecting on the steel part, otherwise the moisture will react to the acid residue still left on the part. At least that's my experience.
Thanks you are a humble man who is helping others...Ed C.
That muriatic acid and soda blast did an amazing job cleaning! Wow!
I could write a paragraph full of accolades for you, but I'll settle for this: In a world full of selfishness, your selflessness is refreshing. You taught me something today. Thank you, thank you for your service and may God bless you.
Thank you for the kind words, much appreciated. God bless you!
Thank you for your time making these videos...I have a 1981 Jeep J10 with 360 cid and factory original 2 barrel motorcraft carb which looks like it has never been cleaned ...done bought the rebuild kit and the acid...thanks for showing the best and cheapest way to get this job done.
Love the no bullshit approach. A friend lend me his dip bucket for a 70 beetle carb. But now that I saw this leaning towards this hack. Way cheaper than 100$ dip kits. Love that carb videos too. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. You're a rare breed in this world of greed that we live in.
Interesting and inspiring video Ronnie ,I am currently working on a vintage Merry Tiller and the gas tank and carburetor are full of rust , After watching your video I know I can restore this machine with ease. Thanks
I've used muriatic acid for 40 years with similar great results. It's great for corroded carbs. I've found that rinsing in a solution of baking soda and lime slows corrosion on the steel parts. I don't know why, but it seems to make a difference.
Saw the first video and liked it very much, thanks for making an update, good job as well.
Awesome, thank you!
Good work Brother, I’m behind you!
Thanks for the follow up! Great production and content. Your honesty and skills are the highest on the website. I’m just an old racer from Arkansas. Have a great day everyone!
I appreciate that!
I learned a lot from the original video and from this follow up. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for your videos. I used to rebuild Carbs back in the 80's for fun and for friends. Loved Holley carbs and didn't care too much for the Quadrajets although I rebuilt a few. I would take them apart and then to a machine shop where they boiled them in likely the same stuff you refer to. It only cost me five bucks per carb to get them cleaned and then I'd rebuild them usually with trick kits. The machine shop is gone now and I always wondered how I could get carbs shinny like what you described although I don't rebuild them any more. The most I rebuild now are little carbs from quads and dirt bikes. I did happen to find three Holley carbs, an Eldebrock manifold and two camel hump heads up in the attic the other day. I need to get them down and see if anyone wants to buy them. Again, thanks for the video and providing your knowledge to the rest of us.
Makes me want to go out and buy a junker carb to fix up. Thanks for a great video.
You should!
Fantastic job on those carbs. Keep up the great work. I am in Trinidad and Tobago in the Caribbean and our climate is rainy or sunny with high humidity in the +90% regions so when we clean any parts, we have to spraythem down with WD40 as you did.
Hey, I just found your video and would like to say I appreciate you and what you are do and thank you for your service to our country.
I appreciate that!
Hi Ronnie. For the last few years I have been considering rebuilding Holley carbs as a retirement hobby. You inspire me dude. Thanks
Right on!
The proof is there, that's a great job, and I can't wait to get a project started on my own..for myself. Thank you for your post!
Good luck!
From a non-motor head/shade tree mechanic, this is awesome information. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Great Video. Nice follow up on cleaning technique.
Nice to see a follow up video. Thanks for the info. and thank you for you service Sir.
Thanks for watching!
Saw the first vid this morning, cool to see the 1 year later. Now it would be nice to see what they look like after 90 to 180 days on a daily driver with normal under hood conditions...😉
Thanks Ronnie, for your time and input. I will be trying this this week, have a couple of carbs to do for early Mustangs.
Good luck!
thanks for the vidio! I'm a retired mechanic,and this is the first hearing about muriatic acid to clean carbs.I plan to try it on some old carbs I have sitting around.
Thank you for serving in the military! I served 3 years in the army in the 60's
Thank you for your service
Excellent vid my man. I hear where you coming from. Nice guys like you to just get the word out and help others is well appreciated. Keep up the good work. Huahhhh!
Much appreciated
Keep up the great work and cool videos! It is appreciated. Thank you!
Much appreciated!
Love your videos 👍🏻. I’ve used this acid for a long time as a etching compound then neutralize it with a baking soda and water before painting. I’ve used straight acid as a rust remover it works great in a plastic dip tank . Machined mating surfaces you have dilute. . It’s always reusable 100s of times . I use concrete cleaning 90% muriatic acid . Home Depot . You can put the coating back on with a dip on carburetors.
Thanks Ronnie very helpful!!👍🏽🥶stay warm
Thanks, you too!
Mr. Ronnie. We have a lot in common. My Dad was born and raised in Paul's Valley. I owned an automotive machine shop and love building engines and hotrods. I have been using muriatic acid for years but never thought about putting a carb in it. My next carb build will have to be with this method. Thanks for sharing. I will have to go watch some of your other videos also!!!
Thank you!
Great job on the video!
Thank you!
I've used Berryman's Chem Dip (the bucket) for years. Finally bought a new bucket last year and was shocked at how it has changed now. The old bucket I had, you can only soak it overnight and it was done, with this new bucket I had to soak it for 3 days/nights. Thanks for showing this, and I'm going to give it a try. I guess the days of peein' cherry cola, an' smellin' like a carb for 2 weeks are over.
thankyou for the video. my carb is working again.
Glad it helped
Just watched your first carb clean this morning and signed up.
I was confused when this popped up in my alerts but glad it did. I've got a Carter 625 AFB that's needing your discovered treatment, which is the best looking result I've ever seen. The WD40 just seems so right to get that barrier back that the factory coating normally adds.
Looking forward to checking out your other posts as time allows.
Thank you! Good luck!
Man i wish i knew about this 30 years ago. but anyway i ran across your Channel and glad i did i appreciate that man
Thanx! I'm gonna try it.
Thank you for your information on carb cleaning. much appreciated
Any time!
Just subscribed. I’ll try this method soon on some Holley carbs that need some attention!
Thanks for the video. Going to test it a bit on an old Holley piece.
Good luck!
Thank you! used your process on my 1850-2 1975 vintage with 3310 bowls. This carb was given to me about 12 years ago. Used it to check,build and use on whatever. Saw your video and thought I didnt have anything to lose! Tried it last week and found this wasthe carbs first rebuild! But I must sayWOW! I have always used the ol carb dip stuff,but that has become weak and expensive. With the kit,I have 45 bucks in this carb including everything using this process. I have never seen a carb come out so clean before, and the plastic parts show no damage at all. Then soda blasted the carbs. After redipped in straight water to dissolve any soda lodged inside. Let sit for a day, blew out with air and rebuilt the carb. I had such a good time rebuilding with such clean parts! I have a 3310 and another 1850 to do and from now on, all my rebuilds will be done this way! Thank you for the video!
Awesome! I'm glad I could help
Greetings from Australia. Like your videos. I like to tinker with stuff and this is very helpful.
Thanks for watching!
Great stuff!
I need to rebuild my old outboard carburetor.
I’ll go out there now and get started.
Good luck!
just bought 58 chev, trying to set carb up, will be watching
You're welcome brother! Appreciate the info. I've been building motors, cars, and carbs for years, and always looking for better/cheaper/smarter ways of doing things
Thanks again!
Well first off thank you for your service !! I watched your first video and I do alot of work on small engines so I'm going to do this trick next time I clean and rebuild a carb thank you!! I do know about using the acid on rust it does work good on that you have to brush it on full strength for it to work give that a try see what ya think !!
It would be cool to see you go through the process of cleaning and see how you do it step-by-step have a great day
Great suggestion!
I second that!
Ronnie I sure appreciate you taking up your own time to share your findings with the experiments that you ran yourself on materials that work the best for you cleaning carburetors and you rebuilding them and showing step by step it's very appreciated on this and I guarantee you and I certainly learned a lot from you and hope that you continue to keep sharing your abilities and you're findings with whatever materials works the best I've definitely enjoyed watching you demonstrate your skills with us and once again can't thank you enough Dave
Ronnie, i add a bit more radius to the flat plates on my carbs to allow the vacuum assembly to be removed without having to remove the choke assembly. now easy access to that one troublesome screw.
Thanks for the tip
Fantastic job on the low budget man. I don't think there's any problems or appearance problems at all other than treating the metal after the rebuild making sure that we don't get corrosion again or rust.
I tried the process, worked great for me. Thanks for the tip! And for the idiots who are pissed cause they're carb turned black. IF YOUR NOT WILLING TO ACCEPT THE RISK OF TRYING SOMETHING YOU LEARNED ON YOU TUBE, THAN YOU SHOULD SEND YOUR CARB TO A SHOP!
Excellent and cogent comment. Ten points to Gryffindor!
Great videos 👍 I will be trying your process soon. And if I've paid proper attention to what you showed in your videos I think it will turn out great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, alot of people don't like to pass on what they've lurned. Thanks again. Wildb
Semper Fi
Best of luck!
I have the two barrel Holley model on an old Dodge two ton truck. I just want the carburetor to work. I don't care how it looks. The truck has been sitting for years. I have nothing to lose.
Good luck!
Nice job . You have an instructor approach to this subject matter.
I appreciate that!
Try to clearcoat one. Maybe that will prevent the rust.Thank you for your service.
Hey man, great topic. In the first video you talked about removing screws that had busted during disassembly. I have a 3310 with a busted screw for the vacuum secondary pod. It would be great to see how you got that screw out.
Very Good video and I would buy one from you!
Thx for the no BS info
Awesome, thanks. Don't worry about the TROLLS. they plague UA-cam with their hate and discontent. Thank you for sharing your experiences. They are very helpful.
Thanks!
Good info, thanks. If I may, add in my experiences. You can get the same results using a metal etch, Eastwood sells one. A lot less caustic and harsh than muriatic. I did a tri power set years ago and it still looks good. And do the baking soda bath afterwards to neutralize. Never use acids on steel or cast iron parts, it does something to the metal and will rust worse..Another tip, you can coat the steel parts like nuts and screws by heating them up with a propane torch then dipping in motor oil. It will leave a black finish that sort of looks like gun blue. Thanks again.
Dude , you really need to go all out on making videos , like once a week . Your carb videos are awesome . If you build a channel based around getting your hands dirty with engines ( car , boat , motorcycle ) . You'd have a winner. May I make a suggestion. Make the videos like the carb ones , add breaking them down and rebuild . Maybe some engine builds with any engine ( example a weed Wacker). My point is you seem to have a knack for explaining things so easily , detailed and a good personality. Good luck with this all.
Thank you! for the recommendations. I'll see what I can do
It's cool brother I'm not a holley fan I love my quardojets but I'll definitely try it out on them and post as to how they hold up
Wow. I don't mind a little aging on the second carb. The miratic acid really did a nice job nice natural finish. I would be more concerned about the small passage ways in the metering blocks and air bleeds if there was any because of the acid being to harsh. From the looks of it. Everything looks good. Damnit and I just got a fresh gallon of berryman chemdip to do 1 of mine. I would have tried the miratic acid if I would have seen your video a week earlier
My old man has cleaned carbs that were varnished for years like this! He used to use a saftey clean product that looked blackish/purple & worked even better! Smelled real good also, but it was from the late 1960s & finally ate thru the metal pail it came in, If you see any old saftey clean pails, check inside them, even if chem is gone, they used to have a real nice metal basket, which would hold all the parts without losing them, and would hang on the rim of pail for installing parts in & removal! Their newer stuff just does not work as well! I think its mineral spirits anyway! Would I use this stuff on a super nice coated expensive HP Holley, absolutely not! If your really worried about appearance, than just spend the $$$ & send it back to Holley! It will come back better than new, but its not going to be cheap! Nice job w the videos Ronnie! Your not related to Mike Henson from Street Outlaws are you?
No relation that I know of
Thanks for the info. Feb 10 2021.. Subscribed.. Will like all your vids. Got a couple old Mikunis will try and if they turn black will lmao. hahaha...
Thank you!
Thanks for the info I would like to try it I'm on a monthly income so anything like that I would try to do myself instead of paying somebody but that's pretty amazing I would never have no idea that would work I'll watch you when you go through the process and thought you said a gallon and a half of water in first then 16 oz of Mariana acid
I am a big fan of Krylon clear on everything. I don't want oil all over everything. I beadblast then clean, then clearcoat.
Your a cool dude Ronnie
Thank you!
Hey Ronnie wanted to write back to you a second time and thought as well as saying how much I've enjoyed your post's I'd share something with you as well I had a friend show me.it came to our attention that after a very long period of time WD 40 dried out and left a film of sorts so as I said a friend made a suggestion that works well and was very cheap He uses "Pam" Cooking spray the plain unscented kind and its also a food grade product so very safe as well not that its a big deal or a giant issue around my house but could be for somebody else ya just never know anyway thanks again for your time and please keep up the awesome work.. thanks again..Dave
Thanks!
Thx
I never thought of using Muriatic acid on one. Great idea with the suggestion to try it on something small first!
When you dip the base, do you leave the butterflies in them ?
Just like anything else, when everyone says it can’t be done, you’ll find someone doing it with great success! Thank you for the video and your service to our country. Upstate NY here...
Yes, leave the butterflies in and dip the entire base plate.
Nice video. After watching both your videos I honestly wouldn't have any problem using muriatic acid on mine for the next rebuild.and will be. Any carb that is sitting outside with the variable humidities over a length of time will start to corrode. I suspect when on a vehicle that is being used fairly reguarily or seasonal would have no issues. Thanks
Yup
Jesus led me to your channel and I am blessed to find another brother in Christ sharing from the love in their heart. Thank you for sharing of your time and knowledge. I have a 1973 AMC Javelin AMX that I am restoring and sharing of my love that I have received alone the way. I pray that Jesus blesses you and your family with the desires of your hearts. All my love, your brother in Christ, Michael Joseph Smith
You are very welcome, Thank you!
Hey Ronnie, bro I r the man, so easy to learn from you. I have a Quick Fuel Q650 double pumper that’s about 3 years old. I just want to clean it and give it a fresh rebuild. My question is what type of solvent should I use to clean it up. Great videos, Thanks and God Bless 👍🙏
Solvent, from the tractor supply store. Works good for just a basic clean up and will not discolor or remove the original finish. Use lots of compressed air through all passages....... Thanks for watching
Hi Ronnie I'm wondering if there's any way you might be able to help me with the step by step procedures to rebuilding a Holley 4224 -660- center squirters carburetor I did very much enjoy the way you covered the dual feed 4 barrel that you did on here I bet I have watched and rewatched it on UA-cam 20 times easy your very easy to learn from my friend keep up the great work..
Perhaps a mixture of baking soda and water after the process would neutralize the acid much like cleaning corroded battery terminals. I'm not a chemist,and I don't play one on TV but it's worth a try!
Howdy cousin. For surface protection I’m a fan of the newer blaster product surface shield, very good maybe better protection than fluid film or WD. Lasts a long time (2 years?) and is by the 12oz can at HD or Harbor Freight or Amazon. I think they just recently started selling blaster surface shield in bulk container to spray on say entire undercarriage of old vehicles, farm vehicles etc. Check it out for yourself. Monty Henson Austin City Limits. My 2 cents.
So, the process you are describing is exactly the same as we use to strip anodize off of aluminum parts in the aerospace industry. The black, is "smut", it comes from the hydroxides of aluminum and intermetallic compounds in the metal. Nitric acid or sometimes hydrogen peroxide will remove the "smutty" residue. I t usually happens when you leave certain metals in the stripper too long....
there's my 2¢
I'm going to give this a shot on some ugly aluminum, thanks!
Liked the video planning an re doing my boats holly 4 barrel I have the kit just waiting for the time can you make a rebuild video
I have just that video on my channel.Go check it out.
You need to make videos of these carburetors running on your test stand engine.
OK, I will
Hey Ronnie. Do you have any before and after videos by chance. I am really impressed with this method. How come you didn’t soda blast them like you did in your first video about the acid?
Sorry! I don't
I wonder what they put in there to make them look black? Sounds nice to me. Look up Alodine, a chem film coating takes 10-20 minutes of soaking and will look yellow. Not the same as the factory but not a lot different. Thanks for the info.
Since I first saw this video I’ve never had a need. Now find myself working a 1 bbl. Is there a ratio of dilution or is it just neat?
Thanks Ronnie, I was hoping for a follow up video. I have an 800 DP that will be getting this treatment and a 5gal. bucket full of Holley parts,bowls, squirters, plates,etc. What do you think about painting the steal levers and brackets that are external to stop the corrosion?
Painting should work, give it a try and lets us all know. Thanks!
I used the acid method to clean a Holley Bugspray carburetor and it ruined the pump discharge nozzle and both the RH & LH nozzle bar assemblies. Please be careful with small thin parts
Looks awesome! I may have asked on your other video, but how is the acid on brass? I have some little bike carbs I want that clean but can't remove all the brass
I'm not sure, do a test piece first to be safe
Hey Ronnie thanks for the awesome videos. I have two questions. What size / model /CFM air compressor are you using in the video about soda blasting the carb? Second question (nice vette btw!), I have a '76 Corvette as well and I cannot seem to get the factory HEI to launch me out of the hole. I replaced the original HEI unit with a replacement OEM Delco HEI unit from the early 90's NOS. I've torn down the distributor and regreased the well for the shaft and made sure everything was functioning correctly, weights, etc.. I've measured the weights and center piece from both the old and "new" distributor. So for all intents and purposes the original one and the replacement one from GM are identical. I've even went as far as testing the resistance from the old coil to the new one. I have power brakes (I've replaced the old failed booster with a brand new one and the brakes work perfectly after using the Motive Power Bleeder).
If I blip the throttle there is a noticeable hesitation/lag that lasts for approximately 1/4 of a second. I've rebuilt the quadrajet M4MC to factory specs twice now. I've got one of the original #9 delco binders plus the HP Books on quadrajet carbs that I used for reference as well as the service manuals for the car.
Total timing is set at 36 degrees. 14 on the crank and the rest in the distributor. My initial thought was too much on the distributor and not enough at the crank but I tried upping the crank to 16 and 18 and it runs like shit even after I adjust the springs in the distributor to come in earlier. I've tried 33, 34, 35, 37, 38 total degrees and 36 seems to be the time old sweet spot.
Base idle is 850-900, high idle is 1300, and I have the fast idle cam working flawlessly.
It's that hesitation that's bothering me. Now if I disconnect the power brake booster it rips out of the hole in 1st and I swear I can feel more power when I shift into 2nd. The brakes are like a rock at that point but I expected that. I triple checked and there are no vacuum leaks in the system. Any ideas?
I have the advance spring kit from Crane Cams as well as the adjustable vacuum pod but I put all that stuff back in the box.
I'm using a Ingersoll Rand SS5L5 60 gallon 125 psi air compressor. The first thing I would is to replace your ignition system with the MSD 6AL digital box, Blaster coil and the 85555 manual (no vacuum) distributor so you can set your timing curve at WOT to 36 degrees, this will eliminate any and all ignition issues. I would suggest replacing the quadrajet with a Holley HP 750 cfm Check out my walk around ua-cam.com/video/B4DQx12c-MY/v-deo.html my 79 and pause it when the engine is shown , look at how mine is set up. Also check out how it runs in this video.
ua-cam.com/video/OfWkC13ZpXc/v-deo.html
Hi Ronnie, Can you make a video on installing throttle shaft bushings on Holley 3310" Thanks keep the videos coming! ...and tell us how you soda blast? psi? type of soda? blast tips you use?
100 PSI or higher, Dollar store soda, get 2 one pound boxes, face shield and blast the heck out of each part then wash with clean water blow out with compressed air. Good luck!
Ronnie, just make more useful content and the world of do it yourself aficionados will beat a path to your channel.
Appreciate your practical approach, and down to earth vibe will draw folks in.
Now, I’ll have to watch all your fishing videos!
Just segregate them on your channel into playlists for convenience.
OK, thanks!
Hey Ronnie. Thanks for the videos. I have watched the other one (cleaning the carb) probably 5 times. Tomorrow I’m going to finally clean a carb that way. It’s a weber for a toyota mud truck. But I have a question about this video: this is a year later and the carb without wd-40 did rust on the steel a little. Was all the steel parts also submerged in the muriatic acid solution? Oh, and the jets… did you also put all the brass in the solution? Thanks again for the videos and for your service!
Thank you! I did dip all the parts in the acid and yes they did rust. I would recommend that you clean them with the B-12 Carb cleaner. The brass parts are no problem and easy to clean with the B-12 also. Do a test piece first on that webber not sure what it's made of. Good luck!
@@ronniehenson4122 I did my carb yesterday. I had 3 buckets: 1) muriatic acid solution 2) clean water 3) water with baking soda. I put the parts in for 15 minutes then dunked them in the water then the baking soda & water and then dried them. I soda blasted them afterwards. That’s as far as I got yesterday but the carb looks good. I will go out in the shop later and see if any of the steel flash rusted. Thanks again for the videos.
Great 1st video, any idea how the acid would do to a Holley Street Avenger, those shiny ones? Thanks.
Not sure
I wonder if this would work on my snowblower carburetor and lawn mower
Great Video's Ronnie! Thanks! Alan Jackson here from Arnprior, Ontario Canada! What if you sprayed a Clear Caliper paint on one installed on an engine? Caliper Clear is heat resistant and might keep the finish bright? I think I will give mine a coat when I rebuild mine in the fall using your technique. I will let you know and if you try it before I do, keep us informed. Thanks again for the detailed info!!
Great idea
I was thinking the same thing... spraying the carb with a clear protective finish. How did it work out?
Add baking soda to the rinse water to neutralize the acid. Maybe don't put the steel parts in the acid...the acid strips the plating so it will continue to rust.
You know what I mean the overdoors
How you keep aluminum from turning black?
make you wonder if u could re anodize the carby body after on the cheap
The black those fellas were getting was the etching from the acid on the aluminum. Simple green will do that too but you can buy the aluminum safe simple green that wont etch it.
Thank you. I am interested in learning how to recondition carbs. I have a small old 1996 Force 40hp outboard which I ran regular gas instead of the non ethanol and I now have to do my first ever cleaning of a carb. I do not know what I am doing. I am like a clean canvas for painting and I want to learn correctly. I bought the Gunk dip for it but the rebuild kit has not arrived yet. Our marine mechanic said he did not work on these anymore and that it would be hard for me to find someone who would so it's up to me to learn. Any advice other than ,"buy a different motor". LOL Thanks
Use the Gunk on the older marine carbs
Oh, I did take pictures before and after....if interested, I can send!
The only thing i would do different is add baking soda to your rinse water to help neutralize acid better and you can re anodize or cromate the yellow back on holley not that hard to do great videos
What percentage of acid solution to water did you use?
Here in the UK we can buy a household cleaner called Harpic which is a 10% hydrochloric acid solution. I'm thinking of using that to try and clean a spare set of bike carbs.
Check out the description in the video. It has all the info.
Will that work for interior concerned about needle seat and office opening? Could it damage surface of those seats jets etc?
Nope!