Works great..I watched this video five years ago, put my 4 barrel rochester quadrajet carb in my firehouse subs $3 bucket just as you instructed, went out to the garage today to my little time capsule...well....no carb, just disappeared to atmosphere, maybe the pickle juice? hopefully getting an edelbrock this Christmas.
This is one of those UA-cam videos that show what UA-cam SHOULD be. Video - EXTREMELY helpful, clear, easy, lists what you will need, a great explanation. PERFECT.
Great instructions and step by step explanations. Been doing this for years on various auto parts. My only suggestion is to add a couple of rounded tablespoons of baking soda to your rinse water to neutralize the acid.
Yeah buddy. First time we did this many moons since, and water rinsed, weeks later the truck came in and could see vapor still coming off the carb! (Do use a baking soda rinse)!
New subscriber here. Old time carburetor guy (I'm 71 years old). Today both of my vehicles are fuel injection. That carb looks new. Nice job. I don't know what a new carb costs today. Back in the day they were $60/70 dollars. In the 60's that is... Enjoy your no BS video, and waiting for more. Thanks, from warm Florida.
You probably won’t get this but I have been building engines and wrenching on cars and trucks for over 50 years and I have never heard about this. Absolutely great info and even though it’s 5 years old you can bet I watched every bit of it. Vet here also. Thanks brother!
The “original” Berrymans Chem Dip was cresylic acid with an additive that created a boundry layer to minimize evaporation. Worked extremely well. At some point the formula was changed probably due to EPA regs. Stunk like hell, was rough on skin and worked best when heated (hot tank). This is a great alternative and economical IF you follow Ronnies instructions. Good job Ronnie!
Tech for 50 years- 38 as a shop owner. If you have a carb that the air adjustment(s) do not change the mixture try this. Old school way is to use a mixture of white vinigar and water (approx 30/70) and put the disassembled parts in a slow cooker on low over night. Works especially good at disolving the salts created by moisture in the fuel more especially by ethanol that carb cleaners won't touch. Clean the as much grime and gunk as much as possible before the soak.
Hey Ronnie this German thanks you for serving,The memory I have from Muriatic Acid was my First job at 18 when I first came to the US First off Muriatic Acid is the most foul smell I ever whiffed that includes my Morning shift in the Bathroom😂 I worked as a Painter in Monterey California and my Boss told me I would be in charge of Cleaning the Half tile Roof of the Monterey Hospital of Pidgeon shit and Mildew ,large job I used a Pump sprayer container soaking the Tiles and then using a Power washer,this worked very well and cleaned the tiles like new ,though now I look at how Dangerous this was without my Boss telling me the Danger,the Drunk didn’t care about my Safety anyhow the smell stays in my memory and will now clean my 6 pack 340 Challenger motor Carbs Cheers from West of Chicago
I did this exact process to a Holly carb thats was on a 1964 Rambler 327 V8 I bought from a junkyard. That carb was original equipment and I wanted to keep the engine that way. It workd perfectly once I refreshed it with new gaskets!! Plus it looked like new. I love restoring old things. They just work so nice.
Nice product, my husband has a Carburetor rebuilding business for 36 years and he has tried everything out there. The best product he has found to date is called Pro 300 made for ultrasonic machines.Needs to be about 165 deg, and water rinse. Good luck with the acid.
Keep this trick I devised years ago for the future when you do carbutator work.. Try this... Heat the plastic tube from the carb cleaner spray with a lighter (about 1/4-1/2 inch from the end. Then pull on each end of the tube to stretch it. This makes the outer/inner tube diameter smaller and more of a pin point. When the melted plastic solidifies, use small wire clippers or nail clippers to snip the tube at the smallest diameter that still provides flow when spraying. The cleaner comes out like a pin point pressure washer and the shrunken plastic tube end fits inside whatever port your spaying thru. You can also do the same to create 90 degree angles in the plastic tube to spray sideways inside long venturi tubes. I used to make/keep custom tubes around for these situations. Hope this makes sense. BTW.... Great videos.
WOW! New tool! Years ago Berryman's products worked fine until they changed the formula due to pressure from the nanny state. Thanks for posting this new to me information. Looks like it worked GREAT! 😎
I am rebuilding a chevy scottsdale 4x4 right now. I keep a large home depot bucket of muriatic acid. 50/50 to water. All my metal parts go into it but...note to everyone. Have a good way to pull the part out and a way not to drip acid all over the place. Also, acid will clean that metal up slick as snot but it will not touch anything with grease or dirt on it so clean first. Lastly...eye protection! drop something in a bucket and that splash can hit ya right in the eyes. Thank you Ronnie for this video!! I never thought of using this for a carburetor and I have a 78 quadrajet that is dirty as can be.
Ronnie that special water & acid mix did do a BEAUTIFUL JOB on that old Holley 4 barrel!!!!!!!!! It looks even better than when it was brand spanking new right out of the box!!!!!!!! I bet that would work wonders for even an old GM Quadrajet 4 barrel!!!!!!! Just a simple acid & water mix! Who even knew???? I’m 56 & I have always messed with cars & it just goes to show that you’re NEVER TOO OLD TO LEARN SOMETHING NEW! Thanks for the video!
First I thank you for your service Sir. I worked for Holley as a machinist for years and will tell you that all the "body" parts on a Holley carburetor are solid zinc. Excellent video, thank you.
@@ronniehenson4122 I certainly learned something here. I never once thought of using muriatic acid for a carb cleaner. I have soaked steel and cast iron in a solution of water and 10% molasses. Takes about a week but works amazingly well. My most recent rust removal was the inside of a very rusted motorcycle tank Thanks again.
Thank You Mr. Ron! I'm now stoked to be hunting down a double pumper on Craigslist for a song, and all will be well. As the son of a Vietnam Veteran, THANK YOU for your service.
Just worked a treat on my 1952 (same age as me ) L.E. velocette, here in the UK. Nicely presented video too,without all the shouting and waved around camera. And straight to the point, thanks for it, i did my cylinder heads too. Look great.
The guys at work use a muriatic acid solution to clean all aluminum on the big trucks. They just spray it on with a pump sprayer then let sit then they power wash it off. Makes the trucks look like new money. Never thought about using to clean a carb. Nice
this was one of the best solutions ever used, I used this method and solution to clean my VW EGR Valve kit, it dissolved all carbon buildup and made it look new. THANKS
Thank you for sharing. I'm a contractor and my hobby is rebuilding old cars and trucks. I have used muratic acid to clean away oil and grease from concrete with really good results before painting with epoxy. The epoxy run about 100 bucks a gallon so you need good results or it's going to get expensive. And my customers won't be giving me a good referral. I will definitely give this a try. And thank you for your service. Our Son gave all.
Have you tried staining concrete with iron sulphate which is cheap and typical fertiliser? Google it and look at the examples it's pretty impressive with some people have done. No preparation is actually a requirement, as over cleaning in etching it doesn't work as well. It's way cheaper easier and looks good, Especially for low budget job
Back in the 80’s I use to use Berryman’s but it is not the same formula today. Back then just the oder was enough to strip carbs clean. If you got any of it on you it took weeks for the smell to fade away. It was horrible but it worked great.
Thank you so much. I am a carburetor type person and this video was just what I need. I have used smelly , corrosive carb. cleaner and hot water for years, this is much better. Videos on your method of carb. rebuilding would be great.
I'm about to embark on rebuilding an old 650 double pumper that was sitting on an engine for about 23 years. Was looking for an inexpensive solution to cleaning it back to new and I just found it. THANK YOU! AND THANKS FOR YOUR SERVICE SIR!
A++, been cleaning mechanical parts for 65 years and had a hard time replacing the old cleaners that are now illegal (carbon tetra chloride etc etc) tried everything that auto stores said would work,,,,,nothing did a really good job,,,,soooo glad to find this video, never thought of trying your solution. Always thought it would be too strong to even try it 🙏🙏🙏🙏thank you from an “old fart” whom still likes “really clean” carburetors, manifolds, etc…thank you
This is the shit you wanta know. Muriatic acid has some great qualities. Just have to respect it.used alot of it in my mason tending days. Great information, keep it coming. Thanks
Thank you for your service to our country. And, thanks for explaining as you did - without any of that coarse language that embarrasses. I appreciate you.
Thank you, I've been fighting carburetors my whole damn life. If it's not a vehicle it's a motorcycle, quad, tractor, lawn mower, rototiller. I mean almost constantly fighting carburetors. Bought a ultrasonic cleaner just to clean carburetors. Wasn't impressed with it either. I will definitely try this. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
Great tip, Ronnie! I'm a long time automotive and power-sports tech,and this is the ONLY way to properly clean a badly "gummed up" carb, irregardless of what it is on,once the fuel in it has begun to evaporate and thicken.A bad carb clean can have bad results. I use a Safety Clean commercial product,pretty strong,and have both accidentally AND purposely left metal only parts in this solution for as many as four days with no noticeable damage to the castings,but this may cause some pitting on softer metal welsh plugs,and it can etch brass .Only do these longer dips for carbs that CANNOT be replaced,or the carb cleaner/air method has little effect on dried up fuel,(and if you are an experienced,capable technician). And again,as you pointed out,metal and plastic parts only in acid,it will compromise rubber,I.E throttle shaft seals,bowl gaskets,etc.One important thing to remember,though,(users pay attention,you can save yourselves a lot of downtime,money and aggravation),is that a DRY carburetor or fuel system will NEVER need much,if any cleaning after any length of storage.Always drain a fuel system DRY for long term storage,and you will NEVER reach the point of needing this kind of service. IF you have a steel tank,you must keep it wet to prevent rust,but plastic will always be better off dry. I have made a large amount of money cleaning carbs and fuel systems over a long span of time that wouldn't have been necessary by using proper equipment and fuel storage methods.This applies for anything using any hydrocarbon fuel, (gasoline,diesel fuel,alcohol),that will be subjected to long periods of storage or non-use.Don't let the fuel evaporate!
Hi Ronnie. Great Video!! I'm a shop owner & have been looking for a good carb cleaner for years. We used to have great cleaners in this industry until the EPA killed them all. Always wondered about acid but never tried it. Now I will! This is a Great Help Thanks for spending the time to bring this to all of us!
Remember: "Add acid to water, just like you otter!" This is an important thing to remember and a good phrase to help remember. Doing it the other way can actually cause the acid to explode outward, and it's very nasty stuff.
Found a model 6919 Holley 600 at a garage sale for 5 bucks, pretty dirty and discolored, surface corrosion etc but for 5 bucks hell ya I'm trying this now. Thanks for the video! Awesome man.
I found this just in time... tore my Quadrajet apart & it's in bad need of cleaning... I think I'm gonna give this a whirl.. thanks mate!!! Excellent video
Hi Ronnie, years ago I used to re-build engines, carbs. etc. & I later worked for 3 years on the engine assembly lines at Ford in Cologne here in Germany. To clean alloy items such as carbs., water pumps etc. I always used paint stripper which works really well. After about 20 mins. of allowing the stripper to melt down all the gunk you just have to blow out the soaked item well after dunking in fresh water several times, then allow to dry overnight.
Works great..I watched this video five years ago, put my 4 barrel rochester quadrajet carb in my firehouse subs $3 bucket just as you instructed, went out to the garage today to my little time capsule...well....no carb, just disappeared to atmosphere, maybe the pickle juice? hopefully getting an edelbrock this Christmas.
Thanks Ronnie for the video /mixed 2 gallons of water with 1 1/2 pints of muriatic acid. total change in about 10 minutes. note this carburetor looked like frosting it was so caked with white corrosion inside. Clean and re dipped a second time for 5 minutes. Total cleanliness in 15 to 20 minutes. Thanks again Ronnie
I’m a machinist, thanks for the great video, right to the point! muriatic acid can be used to remove broken taps, drills, screws etc from aluminum. It won’t hurt the aluminum, but will literally rust out the offending tap. All you need to do is build a wall around the hole to pour in the acid, use modeling clay, not play dough! Or silicone caulking like the stuff you use to fix your fish tank. Once it’s dry, pour in the acid, it will bubble as it eats the tap, when it stops, poke it with a paper clip to get it working again. This process might take a day depending how much steel you need burned out. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!!
I use muriatic acid to eat aluminum from seized pistons off the steel liner of motorcycle and ATV cylinders because it will dissolve the aluminum without damaging the steel/cast iron - it will remove broken taps and such by eating the aluminum/zink (white metal) away from broken steel. It will cause rust on steel, but only surface rust.
Come on, guys, ph doesn't get much lower so it likes anything metallic. Hydrochloric Acid 37% MATERIAL COMPATIBILITY Aluminum D - Poor Bronze D - Poor Carbon Steel D - Poor Carpenter 20 D - Poor Cast iron D - Poor Copper D - Poor Nylon D - Poor Polycarbonate D - Poor Polyurethane D - Poor PPS (Ryton®) D - Poor stainless steel - 304 D - Poor stainless steel - 316 D - Poor Titanium D - Poor Once it gets through the oxide layer, it's off to the races. ua-cam.com/video/ZLz4bSXcuYY/v-deo.html
Great info. Knew all that just never thought to apply to carbs. I use it on rusted tools and firearm parts. One additional step would be a baking soda/h2O dip to neutralize any remaining acid.
I just used this method on 2 holley 660's. Absolutely awesome. This is the best method there is. Thanks for posting this. One of the best videos i have ever seen on UA-cam.
Ron From Tulsa, I have a 1970 Fiat 850 Sports Spyder with a Weber 30 DICA carburetor. I have rebuilt the carburetor several times since I purchased the car in 1983. However, this time will be a little different. I will be zinc plating the steel parts. I will be cleaning the carb body with ultrasonic cleaner and mag wheel cleaner. Several you Tubes have done this however I may be zinc plating the aluminum carb body also. As for the steel parts I will be using a vibrating tumbler. First to clean then to zinc plate with yellow chromate solution. Zinc is to prevent the corrosion problems shortly after cleaning. I am in the electrical field and have plated many different items. I have not done Zinc but have silver plated. It may seem that I will be going to an extreme, but I was willing to buy new until I saw prices from 400 to 800 for a carburetor done the way I am going to do this one. If you would like I will keep you in the loop as to the outcome.
First thanks for serving in the military and second thanks for sharing this tip. I have been very dissatisfied with the over the counter carburetor cleaner gallon can and baskets out there. They are not what they used to be. Thanks!
Stunning work and info! Hydrochloric acid (Muratic/stomach acid) does remove everything. But it is very bad for iron, because it causes rapid rusting of the iron after it removes the rust. You can use Phosphoric acid after cleaning steel to remove the invisible rust and seal the metal by creating a thin layer of black iron on the metal, which prevents rapid rusting. Phosphoric acid must be used instead of Muratic acid, on iron parts, unless there is no other way to clean the rust. Evaporust works very well too, the liquid, and it removes rust very well without causing rapid rusting afterwards. Citric acid and Acetic acid also passivate and seal iron, instead of creating rapid rusting like Muratic acid. If you don't have anything, using vinegar (acetic acid) is good for iron parts and won't cause long term rusting and damage. Phosphoric acid/citric acid/acetic acid lightly passivate iron and protect it from rusting. You can also use these acids on stainless steel, with Phosphoric acid and Citric acid being the best for stainless, they passivate the stainless. Muratic acid, does not passviate steel or stainless steel, so it will rust or stain later when exposed to light moisture. This carburetor looks absolutely amazing! I'm only sharing this information because it may be relevant for people trying to clean steel parts.
Mr Ritalie I work in the metal machining and grinding case harden steels, we temper etch (Nital Etch steels) for burns,(Over Temper or re hardening), the trick is, clean with hydrochloric an water or alcohol, alcohol is preferred over water, it does not cause a condition called hydrogen embrittlement in harden steel, or it can be baked after etching to prevent embrittlement, after etching in acid requires a solution of sodium carbonate (Baking soda) to neutralize the acid, and prevent surface deterioration from the improper neutralization. then clean in hot water , then dip in oil to prevent corrosion. (rust) there more to this but for cleaning the above is all that is needed. any thing etched has to be neutralized then water rinsed and then dipped into a corrosion prevention. cast iron is a weird animal since it is high carbon, and will react different and detrimental. God Bless
@@rexmericle5068 hey Rex does the vinegar clean out the varnished gas in the tiny passages? Will overnight be enough? How about warming it slightly on the stove? Thanks
@@daveg2199 hi Dave it depends on how bad the build up is. What I generally do is disassemble the carb and leave it in vinegar for about two days. If you have heavy varnish I suggest pushing some carb cleaner through the various ports with all the brass parts out. It's always worked for me. I would think warming up the vinegar to soften up the varnish is a good idea. I have to tell you that the carbs I've worked on over the last 10 years are motorcycle carbs which are VERY "finicky" by comparison. Nice about vinegar, you can strain it through a coffee filter and reuse it and when it gets dark you can just pour it out on the ground.
I use a plastic Colander for all my small parts and old bolts. I also used a 8ft piece of plastic gutter to do a drive shaft and it didn't remove the painted color bands.
Glad you posted this & I appreciate it. Very good video; direct to the point with no stupid background noise or unnecessary and unrelated conversation. Thanks, great job.
When The Statue of Liberty was renovated a few years ago, they tried several kinds of blasting media, nothing so aggressive that it took off the metal, but aggressive enough to remove the dirt and corrosion. They ended up using baking soda.
I have been using muriatic acid on lawnmower engines carbs for 20 years. I used it full strength, maybe I was wrong. I now use it on my water filtration system for cleaning. It works great on iron staining.
I am working on a Suzuki Katana 600 that has been out under sun and rain for over 3 or more years, and now I am starting to work on the carburetors, I have seen many videos about cleaning carburetors, but this one definitely convinced me LOLm thanks for this great video, even 3 years later it is useful for many people, I am on my way to buy the Aces at the hardware store and let you know later if it worked for my motorcycle carburetors.
Very cool. Several of my projects require carburetor cleaning and rebuild which I have been dreading. Working with the usual highly volatile solvents is not so good for your health to put it lightly. This idea revitalizes my enthusiasm for tackling the carburetor conundrum. Thank you Ronnie. Your propensity for detail kept me glued to the screen. Keep up the good work sir thank you for your service.
Cleaned out autolite 2100 on 69 Bronco with berry man's about 3 cans selector switch had rust ran good until I switched tanks something got thru plugged up power valve (new) need to give another spritzing should be okay she hadn't run in over 13 yrs. sounded good no sticky lifters marvel mystery oil and berry man's italian tune up vice grips garage slogan,,👍😊✌️🤔
@@milotorres6894 marvel mystery oil is the bomb! I bought late model chevy 6.0 truck for engine core.it ticked bad and smoked up the whole neighborhood when you started it. Ran 8, oz. MMO in it for about a week and shazam! It unstuck the ring I guess.no more smoking.that was 3 yrs ago.still using it for farm truck to this day.had to buy another core engine.lol
Ronnie i know some people are complaning about balck scale but i gotta say i did this to 3 carburators so far and man o men it works great! i love it tanks a lot and keep up the good work
Oh heck yeah. Great video. Reading down further I totally agree. This is the way to do it. Reversed image, reading backwards, but still great. Thanks. Take care Ronnie.
You sir are a true inspiration, Thank you for you sharing your knowledge, if you ever come down under you can see the same results, I followed your steps. Couldn’t be happier
Thank you very much I'm a retired fertilizer chemist and have a few old 327 to 350 motors I've owned and use on my airboats and as you say when i was working the gas gets left in carbs and I have used Nitric acid and other chems for cleaning the discount way cause you could buy a carb for almost what the 5 gallon bucket with basket of carb cleaner in the 80's and 90's but i never thought about using muratic and as i was watching and listening I was wondering about the baking soda Thank you I am retired and have about 5,000 worth of holley's from 650 cfm to 1150 double pumpers that are fixing to get rebuilt Thank you very much Preston Green Fish eating creek FL>
Good job on your video, Ronnie. I wish everybody did them this well. You say exactly what needs to be done (and how to do it) and none of the BS'ing or bragging that is so prevalent on youtube how-tos. Carry on!
I normally prefer watching the steps being done as the person talks, but you did an amazing job describing the process, cost, tools, etc. 5 star video. Great job. Earned my subscribe and like for sure!
@@ronniehenson4122 I used your method to clean the carb on my 1958 Evinrude 5.5hp outboard. It worked great! I had to make some other adjustments with my fuel lines but I finally got it running! This was my first outboard I've ever worked on and didn't even know what a point was going into it haha. Feeling pretty accomplished right now! I'm going to take it out on the water tomorrow. I expect some more work on it but...she runs! I'll try and post a video of how she does out there!
Thanks man! Love this method, was military too, Jet mechanic. Cool results, I see nothing wrong at all with this process, cool idea!😊 thanks again buddy!
Great explanation on using acid safely. I've used muratic acid to break loose so many different rusted together items. From the center shaft of a coats tire machine to the turnover ball assembly of a gooseneck hitch that was so rusted in I picked up the whole truck dangling from the ball and heating it with a rose bud and it would not budge. 30 min after soaking muratic acid down the ball assembly it pulled out with my hand! Of course, this stuff is quite caustic so every precaution needs to be taken. I've also used red devil lye diluted to clean steel and aluminum. But it will damage aluminum if not diluted property and amount of time in the solution strictly controlled. Thanks for the great video!
I always dip the parts in soda water to neutralize the acid when I'm done. Works good but I have mixed it too strong and left it overnight. Ate a hole right through the bowl. So be careful.
I have been cleaning my carburetors by putting lacquer cleaner in my almost empty gas tank: a pint is most always enough. I run the engine after using starter fluid to get it going. The lacquer cleaner dissolves all the varnish, and gunk from even the smallest passageways. This method has never failed me!
Muriatic Acid will eat aluminum so be careful, don't make the concentration too strong and don't leave something you care about unattended. That said, when it's diluted correctly it's a great cleaning tool. Thanks for the video. P.S. Use it outside and avoid breathing the fumes....don't learn the hard way.
Coast Guard vet here, Vietnam era old fart and gearhead, you've got another sub. I appreciate your passing along the carb cleaning method as I've built my share of carbs through the years and continue to do so. I can remember a time when the available carb cleaner solution was effective, but I guess too many idiots couldn't follow instructions and the government stepped in and made piss out of it.
great job.. the reason the acid works so good is it cleans out all the passages and doesn't need agitation, and it also has one more awesome benefit you are 1/2 way to anodized....you said you have spare time.. just one more skill to add that is really worth the time investment. I buy totaled bikes and boats and build smoking choppers for next to nothing because Aluminum is easy to repair, finish, polish, anodize, even plate... keep up the good work Brother...
You're carburetor series has helped me tremendously, I have a 4160 that needs rebuilt and I've been putting off due to fear, but now that thing is as good as rebuilt
Might want to try ‘Purple Power’ full strength as a soak also. Just let the carb body and parts soak overnight and rinse off. Does an excellent job cleaning and doesn’t cause any dulling of the aluminum finish. More expensive but also easy to get rid of the leftovers.
I soaked my Motorcraft 2150 2-barrel in full strength Purple Power for about 2 hours today and it appeared to be eating the aluminum body. Took a LOT of scrubbing to get it cleaned up, that's why I'm here watching a video about using muriatic acid to clean the parts.
Thanks for posting this information. I'd like to have seen the float bowls after cleaning. They never seem to get completely clean with your regular carb dip. I bought a Buell that sat for a couple of years and the inside if that carb looked like apple brown betty. Weird, I know. But all I did was disassemble and clean it just to see if it would run. Now I have a kit and I'll do it the right way this time. I will try this method.
Subscribed, good tip and presentation. Retired mechanic who hangs in the shop. Currently doing a 383 (chev) and have a 1957 283 willing to part with...
1968, I was in the Army stationed at Ft. Bliss, El Paso, TX. I rebuilt the Carter Carb on my 65 Chevelle 300 hp 327 at the Air Force base craft shop next door to Ft. Bliss. They had a 5 gallon bucket of some kind of acid because when they took the lid off, it smoked. I wish I could remember what acid they used. They had a stainless basket that allowed the carb parts to be dunked into the acid with easy retrieval. The mechanic there told me to leave the carb parts in the acid for 45 minutes if I remember correctly because it had been used many times before. Anyway, my carb looked brand new afterwards and the engine performed like new with this super cleaned carb.
You're the man, this stuff also cleans seashells very well too. It does dissolve ferrous metals though (acid porting manifolds), and will destroy all stainless in my experience (stainless and high carbon tweezers rotted away after dropping in the tub)
Firstly , Thank You for your service ! Second wow that's a cool trick ! Thirdly thanks for sharing the Acid into water and not the other way around ! 👍
I am on the east coast of Canada so know all about cold and dreary. I am on my way tomorrow for a jug of muriatic acid. I rebuild and restore old outboards and some Tecumseh and Briggs engines. I have a sonic cleaner and have tried MANY so called cleaners...THAT carb looks GREAT. Great vid Ron.
Great Video Ronnie ! Very Very Helpful considering I just Purchased a Gallon of cleaner @ $ 39.00 a Gallon It doesn’t do the Job like it use to back in the 70s.But can’t thank you enough on your Experiment.I can tell this is the way to go ! Thanks Again for your help !
Surprisingly hot water and dish soap work well and doesn’t strip off any finishes, Learned that in a sthill chainsaw school .It is the only thing they recommended, I have an ultrasonic cleaner I throw them in.
I tried that also. I wasn't impressed at all. Didn't really clean anything. I bought the ultrasonic cleaner just for this. I wonder what would happen if you warmed up this solution in your ultrasonic cleaner and then dunked the carburetor parts in?
Great video. You should put baking soda in your rinse water to neutralize the acid. That carbon looks awesome. Putting aluminum in muriatic acid, undiluted will produce hydrogen and a lot of heat as well. Just a fun fact.
Watched this three years ago worked so well I'm back 3 years later to make sure I'm doing it right again haha
Thanks!
Dedicated
It's now 2024, and that $ 2 gallon of Muriatic Acid is now $ 7.50 a gallon
Who says there's no inflation?
Same!
Works great..I watched this video five years ago, put my 4 barrel rochester quadrajet carb in my firehouse subs $3 bucket just as you instructed, went out to the garage today to my little time capsule...well....no carb, just disappeared to atmosphere, maybe the pickle juice? hopefully getting an edelbrock this Christmas.
Excellent Ronnie love it no music blaring no intro logos just the simple facts thank you!
Glad you liked it
Thanks for sharing 👍
This is one of those UA-cam videos that show what UA-cam SHOULD be. Video - EXTREMELY helpful, clear, easy, lists what you will need, a great explanation. PERFECT.
Wow, thanks!
Ronnie, I tried your water and acid ....mixed it as you said and my carburetor ended up developing black gray scale....I’m not impressed
@@stevenbowers1513 was it hot or cold water?
@@HeatherWelk Cold
I agree only if they were all this well explained, very nice video
Great instructions and step by step explanations. Been doing this for years on various auto parts. My only suggestion is to add a couple of rounded tablespoons of baking soda to your rinse water to neutralize the acid.
Yeah buddy. First time we did this many moons since, and water rinsed, weeks later the truck came in and could see vapor still coming off the carb! (Do use a baking soda rinse)!
New subscriber here. Old time carburetor guy (I'm 71 years old). Today both of my vehicles are fuel injection.
That carb looks new. Nice job. I don't know what a new carb costs today. Back in the day they were $60/70 dollars. In the 60's that is...
Enjoy your no BS video, and waiting for more. Thanks, from warm Florida.
Thanks for the sub!
You probably won’t get this but I have been building engines and wrenching on cars and trucks for over 50 years and I have never heard about this. Absolutely great info and even though it’s 5 years old you can bet I watched every bit of it. Vet here also. Thanks brother!
Thanks brother! Glad you enjoyed it.
The “original” Berrymans Chem Dip was cresylic acid with an additive that created a boundry layer to minimize evaporation. Worked extremely well. At some point the formula was changed probably due to EPA regs. Stunk like hell, was rough on skin and worked best when heated (hot tank). This is a great alternative and economical IF you follow Ronnies instructions. Good job Ronnie!
Thank you!
Tech for 50 years- 38 as a shop owner. If you have a carb that the air adjustment(s) do not change the mixture try this.
Old school way is to use a mixture of white vinigar and water (approx 30/70) and put the disassembled parts in a slow cooker on low over night. Works especially good at disolving the salts created by moisture in the fuel more especially by ethanol that carb cleaners won't touch.
Clean the as much grime and gunk as much as possible before the soak.
Mint. I wonder if a pressure cooker would work better.
Hey Ronnie this German thanks you for serving,The memory I have from Muriatic Acid was my First job at 18 when I first came to the US First off Muriatic Acid is the most foul smell I ever whiffed that includes my Morning shift in the Bathroom😂 I worked as a Painter in Monterey California and my Boss told me I would be in charge of Cleaning the Half tile Roof of the Monterey Hospital of Pidgeon shit and Mildew ,large job I used a Pump sprayer container soaking the Tiles and then using a Power washer,this worked very well and cleaned the tiles like new ,though now I look at how Dangerous this was without my Boss telling me the Danger,the Drunk didn’t care about my Safety anyhow the smell stays in my memory and will now clean my 6 pack 340 Challenger motor Carbs
Cheers from West of Chicago
I did this exact process to a Holly carb thats was on a 1964 Rambler 327 V8 I bought from a junkyard. That carb was original equipment and I wanted to keep the engine that way. It workd perfectly once I refreshed it with new gaskets!! Plus it looked like new. I love restoring old things. They just work so nice.
Nice product, my husband has a Carburetor rebuilding business for 36 years and he has tried everything out there. The best product he has found to date is called Pro 300 made for ultrasonic machines.Needs to be about 165 deg, and water rinse. Good luck with the acid.
Thanks!
Keep this trick I devised years ago for the future when you do carbutator work..
Try this... Heat the plastic tube from the carb cleaner spray with a lighter (about 1/4-1/2 inch from the end. Then pull on each end of the tube to stretch it. This makes the outer/inner tube diameter smaller and more of a pin point. When the melted plastic solidifies, use small wire clippers or nail clippers to snip the tube at the smallest diameter that still provides flow when spraying. The cleaner comes out like a pin point pressure washer and the shrunken plastic tube end fits inside whatever port your spaying thru.
You can also do the same to create 90 degree angles in the plastic tube to spray sideways inside long venturi tubes.
I used to make/keep custom tubes around for these situations. Hope this makes sense. BTW.... Great videos.
WOW! New tool! Years ago Berryman's products worked fine until they changed the formula due to pressure from the nanny state. Thanks for posting this new to me information.
Looks like it worked GREAT! 😎
Ur a great guy no joke. No one explains it like u. Thank u for doing it.
I appreciate that!
@@ronniehenson4122 it's just the truth👍
I am rebuilding a chevy scottsdale 4x4 right now. I keep a large home depot bucket of muriatic acid. 50/50 to water. All my metal parts go into it but...note to everyone. Have a good way to pull the part out and a way not to drip acid all over the place. Also, acid will clean that metal up slick as snot but it will not touch anything with grease or dirt on it so clean first. Lastly...eye protection! drop something in a bucket and that splash can hit ya right in the eyes. Thank you Ronnie for this video!! I never thought of using this for a carburetor and I have a 78 quadrajet that is dirty as can be.
Ronnie that special water & acid mix did do a BEAUTIFUL JOB on that old Holley 4 barrel!!!!!!!!! It looks even better than when it was brand spanking new right out of the box!!!!!!!! I bet that would work wonders for even an old GM Quadrajet 4 barrel!!!!!!! Just a simple acid & water mix! Who even knew???? I’m 56 & I have always messed with cars & it just goes to show that you’re NEVER TOO OLD TO LEARN SOMETHING NEW! Thanks for the video!
First I thank you for your service Sir. I worked for Holley as a machinist for years and will tell you that all the "body" parts on a Holley carburetor are solid zinc. Excellent video, thank you.
Thanks for sharing
@@ronniehenson4122 I certainly learned something here. I never once thought of using muriatic acid for a carb cleaner. I have soaked steel and cast iron in a solution of water and 10% molasses. Takes about a week but works amazingly well. My most recent rust removal was the inside of a very rusted motorcycle tank Thanks again.
Thank You Mr. Ron!
I'm now stoked to be hunting down a double pumper on Craigslist for a song, and all will be well. As the son of a Vietnam Veteran, THANK YOU for your service.
Just worked a treat on my 1952 (same age as me ) L.E. velocette, here in the UK. Nicely presented video too,without all the shouting and waved around camera. And straight to the point, thanks for it, i did my cylinder heads too. Look great.
The guys at work use a muriatic acid solution to clean all aluminum on the big trucks. They just spray it on with a pump sprayer then let sit then they power wash it off. Makes the trucks look like new money. Never thought about using to clean a carb. Nice
Yes, I have used muriatic acid to clean and rebuild motorcycle carbs for years and it works great!
First off, Thank You For Your Service SIr.
Second, this is an absolute PERFECT video. Thanks for this valuable information.
Glad it was helpful!
this was one of the best solutions ever used, I used this method and solution to clean my VW EGR Valve kit, it dissolved all carbon buildup and made it look new. THANKS
Excellent!
Thank you for sharing. I'm a contractor and my hobby is rebuilding old cars and trucks. I have used muratic acid to clean away oil and grease from concrete with really good results before painting with epoxy. The epoxy run about 100 bucks a gallon so you need good results or it's going to get expensive. And my customers won't be giving me a good referral. I will definitely give this a try. And thank you for your service. Our Son gave all.
Have you tried staining concrete with iron sulphate which is cheap and typical fertiliser?
Google it and look at the examples it's pretty impressive with some people have done.
No preparation is actually a requirement, as over cleaning in etching it doesn't work as well.
It's way cheaper easier and looks good, Especially for low budget job
I love these little tricks to beat big companies, selling expensive Products. When some of the cheapest stuff out there gets it done! Very Nice!
From an Army Vet to another Military Vet, thx for the great vid. Can't wait to try it out.
Thanks for your service
Back in the 80’s I use to use Berryman’s but it is not the same formula today. Back then just the oder was enough to strip carbs clean. If you got any of it on you it took weeks for the smell to fade away. It was horrible but it worked great.
Thank you so much. I am a carburetor type person and this video was just what I need. I have used smelly , corrosive carb. cleaner and hot water for years, this is much better. Videos on your method of carb. rebuilding would be great.
Check my channel and you will see the rebuild video
I'm about to embark on rebuilding an old 650 double pumper that was sitting on an engine for about 23 years. Was looking for an inexpensive solution to cleaning it back to new and I just found it. THANK YOU!
AND THANKS FOR YOUR SERVICE SIR!
Thank you! Good luck
A++, been cleaning mechanical parts for 65 years and had a hard time replacing the old cleaners that are now illegal (carbon tetra chloride etc etc) tried everything that auto stores said would work,,,,,nothing did a really good job,,,,soooo glad to find this video, never thought of trying your solution. Always thought it would be too strong to even try it 🙏🙏🙏🙏thank you from an “old fart” whom still likes “really clean” carburetors, manifolds, etc…thank you
This is the shit you wanta know. Muriatic acid has some great qualities. Just have to respect it.used alot of it in my mason tending days. Great information, keep it coming. Thanks
Thank you for your service to our country. And, thanks for explaining as you did - without any of that coarse language that embarrasses. I appreciate you.
Much appreciated
The 3310 rocks for street. Still have the one I bought in 1988 at PAW. Been on a few engines...
Thank you, I've been fighting carburetors my whole damn life. If it's not a vehicle it's a motorcycle, quad, tractor, lawn mower, rototiller. I mean almost constantly fighting carburetors. Bought a ultrasonic cleaner just to clean carburetors. Wasn't impressed with it either. I will definitely try this. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
I bet if you can devise a way to make the acid bath vibrate it will work even better
I can see I'm not alone in that fight... Hahahahaja
Great tip, Ronnie! I'm a long time automotive and power-sports tech,and this is the ONLY way to properly clean a badly "gummed up" carb, irregardless of what it is on,once the fuel in it has begun to evaporate and thicken.A bad carb clean can have bad results. I use a Safety Clean commercial product,pretty strong,and have both accidentally AND purposely left metal only parts in this solution for as many as four days with no noticeable damage to the castings,but this may cause some pitting on softer metal welsh plugs,and it can etch brass .Only do these longer dips for carbs that CANNOT be replaced,or the carb cleaner/air method has little effect on dried up fuel,(and if you are an experienced,capable technician). And again,as you pointed out,metal and plastic parts only in acid,it will compromise rubber,I.E throttle shaft seals,bowl gaskets,etc.One important thing to remember,though,(users pay attention,you can save yourselves a lot of downtime,money and aggravation),is that a DRY carburetor or fuel system will NEVER need much,if any cleaning after any length of storage.Always drain a fuel system DRY for long term storage,and you will NEVER reach the point of needing this kind of service. IF you have a steel tank,you must keep it wet to prevent rust,but plastic will always be better off dry. I have made a large amount of money cleaning carbs and fuel systems over a long span of time that wouldn't have been necessary by using proper equipment and fuel storage methods.This applies for anything using any hydrocarbon fuel, (gasoline,diesel fuel,alcohol),that will be subjected to long periods of storage or non-use.Don't let the fuel evaporate!
Thank you sir for your service and thank you for taking this old hotrodder back 50 years great knowledge
Our pleasure!
Hi Ronnie. Great Video!! I'm a shop owner & have been looking for a good carb cleaner for years. We used to have great cleaners in this industry until the EPA killed them all. Always wondered about acid but never tried it. Now I will! This is a Great Help Thanks for spending the time to bring this to all of us!
Remember: "Add acid to water, just like you otter!" This is an important thing to remember and a good phrase to help remember. Doing it the other way can actually cause the acid to explode outward, and it's very nasty stuff.
I HAVE USED THAT PROCEDURE FOR YEARS WITH TOTAL SUCCESS, THANK YOU FOR TRIGGERING MY MEMORY, RETIRED CANADIAN DISABLED VETERAN👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😊
Found a model 6919 Holley 600 at a garage sale for 5 bucks, pretty dirty and discolored, surface corrosion etc but for 5 bucks hell ya I'm trying this now. Thanks for the video! Awesome man.
I found this just in time... tore my Quadrajet apart & it's in bad need of cleaning... I think I'm gonna give this a whirl.. thanks mate!!! Excellent video
Thanks for publishing this. I've been working on motorcycles for the last 50 years. I use Sulfuric acid (20:80 water) to achieve the same result.
Hi Ronnie, years ago I used to re-build engines, carbs. etc. & I later worked for 3 years on the engine assembly lines at Ford in Cologne here in Germany. To clean alloy items such as carbs., water pumps etc. I always used paint stripper which works really well. After about 20 mins. of allowing the stripper to melt down all the gunk you just have to blow out the soaked item well after dunking in fresh water several times, then allow to dry overnight.
Works great..I watched this video five years ago, put my 4 barrel rochester quadrajet carb in my firehouse subs $3 bucket just as you instructed, went out to the garage today to my little time capsule...well....no carb, just disappeared to atmosphere, maybe the pickle juice? hopefully getting an edelbrock this Christmas.
Thanks Ronnie for the video /mixed 2 gallons of water with 1 1/2 pints of muriatic acid. total change in about 10 minutes. note this carburetor looked like frosting it was so caked with white corrosion inside. Clean and re dipped a second time for 5 minutes. Total cleanliness in 15 to 20 minutes. Thanks again Ronnie
Thank you!
how's it look? any damage ?
@@bmw5050 Looks and runs great, no damage. The steel parts need to have some WD-40 sprayed on them or light rust will appear.
I’m a machinist, thanks for the great video, right to the point! muriatic acid can be used to remove broken taps, drills, screws etc from aluminum. It won’t hurt the aluminum, but will literally rust out the offending tap. All you need to do is build a wall around the hole to pour in the acid, use modeling clay, not play dough! Or silicone caulking like the stuff you use to fix your fish tank. Once it’s dry, pour in the acid, it will bubble as it eats the tap, when it stops, poke it with a paper clip to get it working again. This process might take a day depending how much steel you need burned out. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!!
I use muriatic acid to eat aluminum from seized pistons off the steel liner of motorcycle and ATV cylinders because it will dissolve the aluminum without damaging the steel/cast iron - it will remove broken taps and such by eating the aluminum/zink (white metal) away from broken steel. It will cause rust on steel, but only surface rust.
Come on, guys, ph doesn't get much lower so it likes anything metallic.
Hydrochloric Acid 37%
MATERIAL COMPATIBILITY
Aluminum D - Poor
Bronze D - Poor
Carbon Steel D - Poor
Carpenter 20 D - Poor
Cast iron D - Poor
Copper D - Poor
Nylon D - Poor
Polycarbonate D - Poor
Polyurethane D - Poor
PPS (Ryton®) D - Poor
stainless steel - 304 D - Poor
stainless steel - 316 D - Poor
Titanium D - Poor
Once it gets through the oxide layer, it's off to the races. ua-cam.com/video/ZLz4bSXcuYY/v-deo.html
Very helpful, much appreciated 👍🏾
That’s fucking cool
Wonder if it will hurt brass? I’ve got a Honda carb with a compression brass inlet and seat that Honda doesn’t make replacements for….
Great info. Knew all that just never thought to apply to carbs. I use it on rusted tools and firearm parts. One additional step would be a baking soda/h2O dip to neutralize any remaining acid.
I’ve used denatured alcohol to neutralize acid with good results. As well. No powder residue.
I will have to try it on rusted tools, thank you for the advice 😊
I just used this method on 2 holley 660's. Absolutely awesome. This is the best method there is. Thanks for posting this. One of the best videos i have ever seen on UA-cam.
Glad it helped!
Ron From Tulsa, I have a 1970 Fiat 850 Sports Spyder with a Weber 30 DICA carburetor. I have rebuilt the carburetor several times since I purchased the car in 1983. However, this time will be a little different. I will be zinc plating the steel parts. I will be cleaning the carb body with ultrasonic cleaner and mag wheel cleaner. Several you Tubes have done this however I may be zinc plating the aluminum carb body also. As for the steel parts I will be using a vibrating tumbler. First to clean then to zinc plate with yellow chromate solution. Zinc is to prevent the corrosion problems shortly after cleaning. I am in the electrical field and have plated many different items. I have not done Zinc but have silver plated. It may seem that I will be going to an extreme, but I was willing to buy new until I saw prices from 400 to 800 for a carburetor done the way I am going to do this one. If you would like I will keep you in the loop as to the outcome.
Yes, please do! Thanks!
First thanks for serving in the military and second thanks for sharing this tip. I have been very dissatisfied with the over the counter carburetor cleaner gallon can and baskets out there. They are not what they used to be. Thanks!
I had a 350 bord .080 over
A little baking soda in the cleaning water will neutralize the acid on the carb. Great tip. Hello from the "east side of Oklahoma".
thanks for the extra info
Stunning work and info! Hydrochloric acid (Muratic/stomach acid) does remove everything. But it is very bad for iron, because it causes rapid rusting of the iron after it removes the rust. You can use Phosphoric acid after cleaning steel to remove the invisible rust and seal the metal by creating a thin layer of black iron on the metal, which prevents rapid rusting. Phosphoric acid must be used instead of Muratic acid, on iron parts, unless there is no other way to clean the rust. Evaporust works very well too, the liquid, and it removes rust very well without causing rapid rusting afterwards. Citric acid and Acetic acid also passivate and seal iron, instead of creating rapid rusting like Muratic acid. If you don't have anything, using vinegar (acetic acid) is good for iron parts and won't cause long term rusting and damage. Phosphoric acid/citric acid/acetic acid lightly passivate iron and protect it from rusting. You can also use these acids on stainless steel, with Phosphoric acid and Citric acid being the best for stainless, they passivate the stainless. Muratic acid, does not passviate steel or stainless steel, so it will rust or stain later when exposed to light moisture. This carburetor looks absolutely amazing! I'm only sharing this information because it may be relevant for people trying to clean steel parts.
Mr Ritalie I work in the metal machining and grinding case harden steels, we temper etch (Nital Etch steels) for burns,(Over Temper or re hardening), the trick is, clean with hydrochloric an water or alcohol, alcohol is preferred over water, it does not cause a condition called hydrogen embrittlement in harden steel, or it can be baked after etching to prevent embrittlement,
after etching in acid requires a solution of sodium carbonate (Baking soda) to neutralize the acid, and prevent surface deterioration from the improper neutralization.
then clean in hot water , then dip in oil to prevent corrosion. (rust) there more to this but for cleaning the above is all that is needed. any thing etched has to be neutralized then water rinsed and then dipped into a corrosion prevention. cast iron is a weird animal since it is high carbon, and will react different and detrimental. God Bless
You are exactly right! Muriatic acid is for idiots! Use phosphoric acid.
I've used vinegar for years. Cheap and easy provide you're patient.
@@rexmericle5068 hey Rex does the vinegar clean out the varnished gas in the tiny passages? Will overnight be enough? How about warming it slightly on the stove? Thanks
@@daveg2199 hi Dave it depends on how bad the build up is. What I generally do is disassemble the carb and leave it in vinegar for about two days. If you have heavy varnish I suggest pushing some carb cleaner through the various ports with all the brass parts out. It's always worked for me. I would think warming up the vinegar to soften up the varnish is a good idea. I have to tell you that the carbs I've worked on over the last 10 years are motorcycle carbs which are VERY "finicky" by comparison. Nice about vinegar, you can strain it through a coffee filter and reuse it and when it gets dark you can just pour it out on the ground.
You just earned yourself a new subscriber for being honest and having a good heart trying to save folks some $$$. Thank you sir and GOD bless you!!!
Awesome! God bless you too!
I use a plastic Colander for all my small parts and old bolts. I also used a 8ft piece of plastic gutter to do a drive shaft and it didn't remove the painted color bands.
Glad you posted this & I appreciate it. Very good video; direct to the point with no stupid background noise or unnecessary and unrelated conversation. Thanks, great job.
I appreciate that!
When The Statue of Liberty was renovated a few years ago, they tried several kinds of blasting media, nothing so aggressive that it took off the metal, but aggressive enough to remove the dirt and corrosion. They ended up using baking soda.
I have been using muriatic acid on lawnmower engines carbs for 20 years. I used it full strength, maybe I was wrong. I now use it on my water filtration system for cleaning. It works great on iron staining.
The blast to dress it up is a great touch. I have an idea for other uses for that too. Thanks.
I am working on a Suzuki Katana 600 that has been out under sun and rain for over 3 or more years, and now I am starting to work on the carburetors, I have seen many videos about cleaning carburetors, but this one definitely convinced me LOLm thanks for this great video, even 3 years later it is useful for many people, I am on my way to buy the Aces at the hardware store and let you know later if it worked for my motorcycle carburetors.
Good luck!
Very cool. Several of my projects require carburetor cleaning and rebuild which I have been dreading. Working with the usual highly volatile solvents is not so good for your health to put it lightly. This idea revitalizes my enthusiasm for tackling the carburetor conundrum. Thank you Ronnie. Your propensity for detail kept me glued to the screen. Keep up the good work sir thank you for your service.
Thank you!
From the time this video started I was like that carb looks brand NEW!!
Thank you for sharing this video, that carburetor looks great
I'm also retired vet and I appreciate the information I've had a hard time cleaning these carburetors thank!!
Thank you and thanks for you service
Cleaned out autolite 2100 on 69 Bronco with berry man's about 3 cans selector switch had rust ran good until I switched tanks something got thru plugged up power valve (new) need to give another spritzing should be okay she hadn't run in over 13 yrs. sounded good no sticky lifters marvel mystery oil and berry man's italian tune up vice grips garage slogan,,👍😊✌️🤔
@@milotorres6894 marvel mystery oil is the bomb! I bought late model chevy 6.0 truck for engine core.it ticked bad and smoked up the whole neighborhood when you started it. Ran 8, oz. MMO in it for about a week and shazam! It unstuck the ring I guess.no more smoking.that was 3 yrs ago.still using it for farm truck to this day.had to buy another core engine.lol
Ronnie i know some people are complaning about balck scale but i gotta say i did this to 3 carburators so far and man o men it works great! i love it tanks a lot and keep up the good work
Thanks for sharing
Oh heck yeah. Great video. Reading down further I totally agree. This is the way to do it. Reversed image, reading backwards, but still great. Thanks. Take care Ronnie.
Also this trick can be used for removing zinc from steel before welding. It completely removes all zinc and anything else on steel, works awesome.
Awesome, The cleaner you get at the dollar store, Awesome.
@@340rps Does that do the same thing?
I found that aluminum wheel cleaner works wonders. It’s acidic for break dust which does the job on gunk but safe on aluminum finishes.
You sir are a true inspiration,
Thank you for you sharing your knowledge, if you ever come down under you can see the same results, I followed your steps. Couldn’t be happier
Thanks!
Thank you very much I'm a retired fertilizer chemist and have a few old 327 to 350 motors I've owned and use on my airboats and as you say when i was working the gas gets left in carbs and I have used Nitric acid and other chems for cleaning the discount way cause you could buy a carb for almost what the 5 gallon bucket with basket of carb cleaner in the 80's and 90's but i never thought about using muratic and as i was watching and listening I was wondering about the baking soda Thank you I am retired and have about 5,000 worth of holley's from 650 cfm to 1150 double pumpers that are fixing to get rebuilt Thank you very much Preston Green Fish eating creek FL>
I agree with "V". Been wondering what to clean those nasty carbs with, since 1980, to make them look like new. Thanks for the enlightening video.
Glad to help
Man you make me feel bad for not researching this for the last year or so. Great video better than just boiling it in vinegar water!
Good job on your video, Ronnie. I wish everybody did them this well. You say exactly what needs to be done (and how to do it) and none of the BS'ing or bragging that is so prevalent on youtube how-tos. Carry on!
Thank you!
Good video info....
To the point with no music and no BS....
Glad you liked it!
I normally prefer watching the steps being done as the person talks, but you did an amazing job describing the process, cost, tools, etc. 5 star video. Great job. Earned my subscribe and like for sure!
Thank you so much!
@@ronniehenson4122 I used your method to clean the carb on my 1958 Evinrude 5.5hp outboard. It worked great! I had to make some other adjustments with my fuel lines but I finally got it running! This was my first outboard I've ever worked on and didn't even know what a point was going into it haha. Feeling pretty accomplished right now! I'm going to take it out on the water tomorrow. I expect some more work on it but...she runs! I'll try and post a video of how she does out there!
Thanks man! Love this method, was military too, Jet mechanic. Cool results, I see nothing wrong at all with this process, cool idea!😊 thanks again buddy!
Excellent! Glad it helped!
Great explanation on using acid safely. I've used muratic acid to break loose so many different rusted together items. From the center shaft of a coats tire machine to the turnover ball assembly of a gooseneck hitch that was so rusted in I picked up the whole truck dangling from the ball and heating it with a rose bud and it would not budge. 30 min after soaking muratic acid down the ball assembly it pulled out with my hand! Of course, this stuff is quite caustic so every precaution needs to be taken. I've also used red devil lye diluted to clean steel and aluminum. But it will damage aluminum if not diluted property and amount of time in the solution strictly controlled. Thanks for the great video!
Wow, been looking for something since the old dips were diluted. Thank you for this!
I always dip the parts in soda water to neutralize the acid when I'm done. Works good but I have mixed it too strong and left it overnight. Ate a hole right through the bowl. So be careful.
Enjoying your good work here in S.C. Mr. Henson, keep'em 'coming. I'm retar... retired also and have the time to watch them!
Very good video .
Much appreciated
I have been cleaning my carburetors by putting lacquer cleaner in my almost empty gas tank: a pint is most always enough. I run the engine after using starter fluid to get it going. The lacquer cleaner dissolves all the varnish, and gunk from even the smallest passageways. This method has never failed me!
What a great tip. I'm not happy with the carb cleaners out there and this looks like the answer I've been looking for. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to help, thank you!
Muriatic Acid will eat aluminum so be careful, don't make the concentration too strong and don't leave something you care about unattended. That said, when it's diluted correctly it's a great cleaning tool. Thanks for the video.
P.S. Use it outside and avoid breathing the fumes....don't learn the hard way.
Also make sure your parts are completely submerged because anything above the surface of the acid will likely turn black or flash rust.
Coast Guard vet here, Vietnam era old fart and gearhead, you've got another sub. I appreciate your passing along the carb cleaning method as I've built my share of carbs through the years and continue to do so. I can remember a time when the available carb cleaner solution was effective, but I guess too many idiots couldn't follow instructions and the government stepped in and made piss out of it.
great job.. the reason the acid works so good is it cleans out all the passages and doesn't need agitation, and it also has one more awesome benefit you are 1/2 way to anodized....you said you have spare time.. just one more skill to add that is really worth the time investment. I buy totaled bikes and boats and build smoking choppers for next to nothing because Aluminum is easy to repair, finish, polish, anodize, even plate... keep up the good work Brother...
You're carburetor series has helped me tremendously, I have a 4160 that needs rebuilt and I've been putting off due to fear, but now that thing is as good as rebuilt
Good luck!
Might want to try ‘Purple Power’ full strength as a soak also. Just let the carb body and parts soak overnight and rinse off. Does an excellent job cleaning and doesn’t cause any dulling of the aluminum finish. More expensive but also easy to get rid of the leftovers.
Thanks for the tip!
I soaked my Motorcraft 2150 2-barrel in full strength Purple Power for about 2 hours today and it appeared to be eating the aluminum body. Took a LOT of scrubbing to get it cleaned up, that's why I'm here watching a video about using muriatic acid to clean the parts.
Thanks for posting this information. I'd like to have seen the float bowls after cleaning. They never seem to get completely clean with your regular carb dip. I bought a Buell that sat for a couple of years and the inside if that carb looked like apple brown betty. Weird, I know. But all I did was disassemble and clean it just to see if it would run. Now I have a kit and I'll do it the right way this time. I will try this method.
Check out my rebuild video and I think it shows inside the bowel. ua-cam.com/video/CgT8qX2pgAw/v-deo.html
Subscribed, good tip and presentation. Retired mechanic who hangs in the shop. Currently doing a 383 (chev) and have a 1957 283 willing to part with...
1968, I was in the Army stationed at Ft. Bliss, El Paso, TX. I rebuilt the Carter Carb on my 65 Chevelle 300 hp 327 at the Air Force base craft shop next door to Ft. Bliss. They had a 5 gallon bucket of some kind of acid because when they took the lid off, it smoked. I wish I could remember what acid they used. They had a stainless basket that allowed the carb parts to be dunked into the acid with easy retrieval. The mechanic there told me to leave the carb parts in the acid for 45 minutes if I remember correctly because it had been used many times before. Anyway, my carb looked brand new afterwards and the engine performed like new with this super cleaned carb.
Bad ass ain't no denying it thanks for your service to our country and the carburator cleaner video
You're the man, this stuff also cleans seashells very well too.
It does dissolve ferrous metals though (acid porting manifolds), and will destroy all stainless in my experience (stainless and high carbon tweezers rotted away after dropping in the tub)
Firstly , Thank You for your service ! Second wow that's a cool trick ! Thirdly thanks for sharing the Acid into water and not the other way around ! 👍
AAA....always add acid
I am on the east coast of Canada so know all about cold and dreary. I am on my way tomorrow for a jug of muriatic acid. I rebuild and restore old outboards and some Tecumseh and Briggs engines. I have a sonic cleaner and have tried MANY so called cleaners...THAT carb looks GREAT. Great vid Ron.
Thanks!
Great Video Ronnie ! Very Very Helpful considering I just Purchased a Gallon of cleaner @ $ 39.00 a Gallon It doesn’t do the Job like it use to back in the 70s.But can’t thank you enough on your Experiment.I can tell this is the way to go ! Thanks Again for your help !
Glad it helped
Surprisingly hot water and dish soap work well and doesn’t strip off any finishes, Learned that in a sthill chainsaw school .It is the only thing they recommended, I have an ultrasonic cleaner I throw them in.
I tried that also. I wasn't impressed at all. Didn't really clean anything. I bought the ultrasonic cleaner just for this. I wonder what would happen if you warmed up this solution in your ultrasonic cleaner and then dunked the carburetor parts in?
@@alanbehnke9615 I use almost boiling water, I have cleaned up some pretty varnished carbs , sometimes I have to change the water a couple of times
Very nicely done. No questions left unanswered - thank you!
Great tip. Retired military here also. ASE Master Tech.
Great video. You should put baking soda in your rinse water to neutralize the acid. That carbon looks awesome. Putting aluminum in muriatic acid, undiluted will produce hydrogen and a lot of heat as well. Just a fun fact.
Excellent video for m acid useage. I'm showing this to my 75 yr old dad. He always messing with a carb on something.
Ronnie! You did a great job presenting and explaining the video. I'm going to try it on my next rebuild.
Glad it helped