I use it regularly. I use it to change tires on a daily basis and intensively. I was worried about it, and now it has become my best friend. She works hard.😍👌👌
I really appreciate your detailed evaluation of this tool. You've saved me some time. I can see that if I buy one I'm going to have some work to make it safe. The concept is nice, the execution is another story. Thanks!
One mod I'd make for this is either some nylon runners or skid plate on the bottom so it doesn't completely scrape away the base plate paint from normal use when sliding it under the car. Either that or lower the wheels and extend them outwards so it can roll on the wheels when tipped up at a slight angle, to allow positioning without scraping along the concrete.
Very good review.I think washers would be an answer to the slop in the handle and I would definitely use a block on any of the pinch welds.Also trim the top plate bolts to avoid any problems in the future.Thank you for your video.Very informative
That was a spectacular review. I wish more folks had your approach to explaining stuff. Many ewetoob jerks have music playing, or stupid intros which a fella has to skip over and they suffer from the "I" disease. While you use "I" often in your video, it's solely in relation to how you use or would use the item. I just really enjoy your simple, matter of fact analysis....plus, I have one of these coming in the mail in a few days, and I'm gunna steal all of your ideas to improve this little fella. ...Not actually gunna use it to lift cars. I'm gunna build a box over it which a fella can stand on, then use it as a lifting step stool in my garage which has 10 foot ceiling with lots of high storage. Anywho, I learned a lot from your video, and I thank you so very much for your time and effort to share your knowledge. God bless you, Sir!
11:46 I've released the air through the inlet valve with it fully open and it's not much difference than the outlet valve with the diffuser. I connected a pressure gauge to the release port as it's useful to see what the pressure in the air bladder is.
17:50 if you have any discarded tires, you can cut a bunch of multipurpose jack pads from the tire tread. They're useful for protecting the surfaces of the jack, car, and driveway. You'll need a reciprocating saw to cut through the steel belts, nothing else will do it as easily.
Yes I've been contemplating using that along with some plywood to make some durable pads. I actually use an air powered angle grinder to cut mine. It makes a lot of smoke but with it being air powered if the disc catches it won't kick like an electric one does.
@@jtreworks The rubber chews up the cutting disks too much on the cutoff saw so it may not be worth it; if you can borrow a reciprocating saw from someone it makes short work of it. Bi-metal blade does the trick-
I just bought 2 of these for $70 each on Amazon and they are identical to yours and both of them came in 4 pieces + the brackets and bolts. I figured it wouldn't be any big deal till i question a bolts size so I looked at the directions and there completely useless it doesn't even tell you what nuts, bolts or brackets are required much less where things go
I’m waiting for mine. Will use a puck ontop of Jack if possible. I do road side assistance. What is the air pressure you find your using to lift. Honda’s vs f150s
Hi thanks for watching. I find lighter vehicles can usually be lifted by about 70-80psi. The heavier vehicles you will need to get fairly close to the maximum pressure which I believe is about 113psi for this unit. The F-150 I always worked on was just a standard cab with an 8ft box and there usually wasn't much in the truck itself. So in the field you never what you'll run into. As for what compressor it's really a matter of how long you want to wait since it's a closed system. I would think a pancake style compressor would be enough for this jack.
@@jtreworks did you try measuring the air pressure in the jack with the heavier vehicles? I only tried lighter loads of a Focus, Camaro, and Transit, and the pressure was about 40 psi. The compressor would have to be higher to fill it in a reasonably quick time by having a pressure differential, but it didn't need all that much pressure on my 3 ton version of the jack. The 5 ton should take less pressure for the same lift load, but just more air volume.
Hi, thanks for watching! The top of the jack does move around a bit especially when it is not at full height. I don't know exactly how much it moves side to side but it shouldn't fall over because of the cylinder inside. Once the jack is at full height it's a lot more solid. If you would like I can do a short video on how stable the jack is. Edit: I measured the top of the jack at half height and it looks like it can move 1/2" or 12.7mm off-center.
@@jtreworks Sure a short video would help. I'm interested is seeing its stability not at full height but rather just over the height of a typical car wheel. Thank you
@Darryl Carpenter I've uploaded a short video that should hopefully answer your question. ua-cam.com/users/shortsCxCV0mQq5_c Edit: I don't know why it was set to private but it should work now.
Just used mine to throw on snow tires. I couldn't get it to lift either F150 or Escape by the differential. Not sure where the 3 ton rating rating comes from. Lifts the corners fast though, so it's a keeper!
Thanks for watching! I didn't have an issue lifting the F150(base model) I used to work on and it lifts the front end of my 2011 Ranger 4x4 just fine. They rate it the same as the professional air bag jacks but I'm not sure if the airbags of this one are the same as the professional ones but I do know that if the jack isn't placed quite right while lifting it can bind near the top not allowing it to lift properly(side effect of being cheap I guess). The trick I use is lifting the jack until it touches the vehicle then I bump the bottom of the jack towards the vehicle slightly. This gives it just enough offset at the bottom to have it nearly perfectly vertical when fully lifted.
@@peacetoearth I have a pressure gauge connected to the release valve port so I can see the actual pressure in the jack. mine didn't require a lot of pressure, only 30 to 35 psi to support a compact car. A higher pressure compressor fills it up faster but it doesn't need very high pressure for operation from what I've seen.
If it doesn't lift with heavier loads and sufficient air pressure, it could be stiction in the telescoping metal column inside the center which keeps it from flopping over sideways. Good tip to try nudging it sideways carefully a bit to try to free it up during the lift. Some videos of people applying some grease to the metal column to help it slide, may be beneficial if judiciously applied.
I have a '17 Ranger 4x4 diesel and it is able to lift the frontend by the wheel crossmember. I only need to put a 4" pad on top to get it to do so. I also have bigger wheels on the pickup so that probably contributes to needing the pad. I can get both wheels off the ground enough to put stands underneath. It takes 8 bar/115psi to get it there. I haven't tried lifting by the rear diff yet. I use ramps when I want the whole rear end up. For everything else I just lift quarters. My compressor is a tiny 8 bar/24l/6gal. It has to refill halfway through lifting the frontend. That's still way better than trying to pump 2.5 metric tonnes on a floor jack in 6" increments.
I have to wonder how long that style of jack will last and how easy the repairs will be... I have an old Craftsman floor jack that I bought about 30 years ago and other than having had to top off the hydraulic oil twice during this time, it has been reliable... IIRC, it was made in China... With respect to that rubber pad, I wouldn't be concerned about it as long as there is enough clearance to put 1" thick piece of board between the rubber pad and whatever I'm lifting... I always have a sacrificial piece of wood between the jack pad and whatever I'm lifting... Usually use a soft wood like cedar or maybe pine... Of course, as a Canadian, you have hockey pucks for such things... :) My wife has a Honda Insight which is based on the Civic platform, so I am more concerned with whether whether there is enough room to put it on the side lift points and have enough room to have a bridge go across the top of the jack so that cribbing blocks can be placed on each side of the bridge so that the jack can be removed from underneath it... I knew about the single jack point in the rear of the car, basically under the trunk, but more towards the bumper... I did not see a similar jack point in the front of the car though because there just was not room enough for me to get very far under the car when I recently changed oil and rotated the tires...
It's a pretty simple design by the looks of it and many of the parts you can disassemble. I have a similar hydraulic trolly jack that's probably as old as I am that I still keep because there's some jobs where you need fine jack adjustments which is what a hydraulic jack is perfect for. The reason I was concerned about the rubber pad is that there is 2 cars I work on that are extremely low from the factory one of which is actually too low for this jack the other this jack only had 3/8 of an inch clearance from the steel plate so I made a plywood puck instead of the really soft rubber one and it works well. On my 2015 Civic though it fits fine so you should be able to put a piece of plywood on top of the rubber pad for the Insight if it has the same ground clearance. Sometimes there's no jack point on the front of cars. A Hyundai and a Mazda I work on don't have a spot on the front so I have to jack from the pinch weld on each side.
@@jtreworks -- The Insight is basically the same body as the Civic, but with a bit more up-level features *allegedly*... As such, I suspect the clearance is pretty close... I ended up buying one of this type of jack and the best way to add 2" of ground clearance is to put a 2" thick concrete block where each tire is going to end up and drive on top of it... Assuming you did not use too large of a block, then you now have an additional 2" of space to slide the jack under the car. That is what I used on my wife's Insight... I could not use jack ramps on this car because the angle of the clamps was wrong and the front air dam would hit before the tires started up the ramp... If you space the blocks right, you could gain a bit more without interfering with the space that is needed to slide the jack under the pinch seam... One "advantage" to this new jack is that it game me to motivation to fix the leaky air hose that I had been just "working around" for quite awhile...
@@seanseoltoir This fall I planned on doing something similar. I have some scrap 2x6 that I can cut to make small pads to drive on to so I have a bit more clearance to add more blocks to the jack and lift the vehicle higher. Hopefully, it will make undercoating a little easier. Nothing like a shiny new tool to make you want to spruce things up around the garage. :)
@@jtreworks -- I've actually gotten to the point of just leaving the 2" thick concrete block in my garage and using it as an indicator for my wife on how far she can park... There's also the classic tennis ball hanging from a string from the ceiling, but because the windshield is curved, that would alter the position where she parked slightly. I put a landscaping brick on the end of the concrete block to stop the car from rolling over it and the car's final parking spot is on top of the 2" concrete block... This extra 2" helps my old knees a bit when I'm getting out of the vehicle... My wife's depth perception is not that great, so I have to make it as idiot-proof as possible...
Thanks! Yes those clear plastic lines feel sketchy but when you do the calculations on such a small diameter line it isn't so bad. I have it now routed inside the handles since I've decided to keep it so less likely to get damaged.
@@jtreworks that line did look to be in a perilous position at the bottom, prone to scuffing and pinching. Slot was supposed to be oriented towards the inside rather than the outside.
Hi, thanks for watching! Since this jack is a closed system when lifting(no air escapes) almost any compressor can be used so long as it can reach the maximum rated pressure of the jack which is about 113psi on this model. This has actually got me curious as to the smallest compressor that can be used. I'm currently editing a video about this.
Unfortunately, reviews of things with lack lustre quality will end up sounding quite negative. The reason I bought this is price and solely because of price since a professional quality item of the same style is easily 4x the cost which can't be justified with my limited use compared to a professional environment. I'm simply pointing out any draw backs for people to expect from this item as I'm sure there will be people out there purchasing it for similar reasons that I am. Thanks for watching.
Technically as long as the pump you are using can supply the jack's maximum pressure it can lift a car. It's a closed system so all the air you put into the jack doesn't come out of the jack until you let the car down. ua-cam.com/video/Iucxa0GpMT0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=JTReworks
There is a USA built version of this called RakJak by Zendex. The only problem is I can't justify the massive price difference since I do not use this equipment to make any income. The cheapest I can get the Zendex 3 bag air jack with the long handle here in Canada is about $1500. I paid about $250 for the Vevor air jack and will probably only put about another $100 into it at the very most and maybe a couple hours of my own time. If I was running a shop as a business yes I would probably buy the Zendex one. Thanks for watching.
Yes, it's not the best build quality out there but it's also not of an unusable quality. The higher quality ones from what I could tell from videos are much better, however, they are at a price point that they just don't make sense for the average garage tinkerer. This doesn't replace my hydraulic jack simply because this air jack along with all others in this style that I've seen lack the lift precision that a hydraulic jack has. Thanks for watching.
I probably could be. Really though, I believe you have to be a bit anal about something when you're going over it's pros and cons for a review. Thanks for watching.
I've been keeping an eye out for any reports of the bladder spontaneously letting go while raised and exploding, but haven't seen any yet. I'd think it has to be an eventuality given that it's rubber, but people have had these for years and not a single instance of it popping yet. Maybe someone can do an accelerated degradation test by leaving it exposed to UV and ozone, and trying to max out the pressure and get one to pop in video. Project Farm maybe😅.
I'm not sure if I mentioned it in the video but when I was filming this I was still unsure if I was going to keep the jack. The hose was not trimmed to be the proper length so this was the best way to rout it. I do have it routed properly now. Thanks for watching.
I've already used it for 2 oil changes and it's working fine so far, obviously I use jack stands. There's no way I would trust any floor jack to hold a vehicle in the air while working on it. I even use a pole to place jackstands if I can't easily place them by hand like under the axels of a longbox truck. Thanks for your input!
@@shawnl3154 I would hope it's at least half decent quality considering the amount of Chinese tires on the road(different rubber product I know). I'll eventually get to a tear down once I get tire season over with and deal with taking all the summer stuff out of storage.
I nearly died this very evening January 11, 2023 using two of these pneumatic jacks and six jackstands on the front of a car. Those pneumatic jackstands have no lateral support and it slid the car right past the jackstands contact points. Do not buy this product under any circumstances. There will be massive lawsuits on these. I barely got away with my life, swear to God.
I don't like to think I know more than other people especially people I don't know. Whatever you were doing to the front of that car I feel should have been done with different equipment. I've never had to do or have herd of a job on a vehicle that required 6 jack stands on one end of the vehicle. Also, these jacks are inherently unstable especially at mid lift which they are not really designed for. You are basically lifting up the car with a spring with an air jack like this. They are meant for full lift to their max height then drop them the inch or so to a jack stand that's it. If you need to do anything else use a standard hydraulic jack. One last thing, I have a short of me rocking this jack side to side at mid lift height and the car never fell off it and it's not so unstable that you couldn't drop a car an inch onto a jack stand unless you were pushing on the car as you dropped it. Sorry this jack didn't work out for you but thanks for watching.
I'm not sure how you got the $700 but I bought this when the prices of many things where I live were still quite expensive. If I were to convert the price I paid $250cad tax included it would be 185 euros at today's conversion rate. Yes, it's a lot more than 104 euros but there was no cheaper option for me to purchase it in Canada. Not to mention some things just cost more here in Canada, for context an economy hydraulic quick lift jack was about the same price. Also, I'm sure there are some things I can purchase here that would cost more in Europe. All in all, I don't regret my purchase and I don't feel ripped off since it suited my needs(space constraints in my garage) and I had a fair idea of what I was getting into. It has also allowed me to shorten how long it takes me to do all the tire changeovers I do. If I felt the price wasn't worth it, I probably wouldn't have purchased it and continued to use my slow trolly jack. Thanks for watching.
Many modern uni-body vehicles have their manufacturer recommended jack point on the pinch weld. The only thing that would prevent you from jacking on a pinch weld of a uni-body would be if it's significantly rusted.
I use it regularly. I use it to change tires on a daily basis and intensively. I was worried about it, and now it has become my best friend. She works hard.😍👌👌
Thanks for sharing!
I really appreciate your detailed evaluation of this tool. You've saved me some time. I can see that if I buy one I'm going to have some work to make it safe. The concept is nice, the execution is another story. Thanks!
One mod I'd make for this is either some nylon runners or skid plate on the bottom so it doesn't completely scrape away the base plate paint from normal use when sliding it under the car.
Either that or lower the wheels and extend them outwards so it can roll on the wheels when tipped up at a slight angle, to allow positioning without scraping along the concrete.
Very good review.I think washers would be an answer to the slop in the handle and I would definitely use a block on any of the pinch welds.Also trim the top plate bolts to avoid any problems in the future.Thank you for your video.Very informative
That was a spectacular review.
I wish more folks had your approach to explaining stuff.
Many ewetoob jerks have music playing, or stupid intros which a fella has to skip over and they suffer from the "I" disease.
While you use "I" often in your video, it's solely in relation to how you use or would use the item.
I just really enjoy your simple, matter of fact analysis....plus, I have one of these coming in the mail in a few days, and I'm gunna steal all of your ideas to improve this little fella.
...Not actually gunna use it to lift cars. I'm gunna build a box over it which a fella can stand on, then use it as a lifting step stool in my garage which has 10 foot ceiling with lots of high storage.
Anywho,
I learned a lot from your video, and I thank you so very much for your time and effort to share your knowledge.
God bless you, Sir!
11:46 I've released the air through the inlet valve with it fully open and it's not much difference than the outlet valve with the diffuser.
I connected a pressure gauge to the release port as it's useful to see what the pressure in the air bladder is.
I bought the same type will change the pad like you said
17:50 if you have any discarded tires, you can cut a bunch of multipurpose jack pads from the tire tread.
They're useful for protecting the surfaces of the jack, car, and driveway.
You'll need a reciprocating saw to cut through the steel belts, nothing else will do it as easily.
Yes I've been contemplating using that along with some plywood to make some durable pads. I actually use an air powered angle grinder to cut mine. It makes a lot of smoke but with it being air powered if the disc catches it won't kick like an electric one does.
@@jtreworks The rubber chews up the cutting disks too much on the cutoff saw so it may not be worth it; if you can borrow a reciprocating saw from someone it makes short work of it. Bi-metal blade does the trick-
As regards the pinch bolt.
Make a 1/2" piece of wood or thick rubber pad, with a hole in the middle.
Problen solved.?.
I have ended up doing this. I find plywood usually works best unless I need more height.
I just bought 2 of these for $70 each on Amazon and they are identical to yours and both of them came in 4 pieces + the brackets and bolts. I figured it wouldn't be any big deal till i question a bolts size so I looked at the directions and there completely useless it doesn't even tell you what nuts, bolts or brackets are required much less where things go
Yea it has some things that are to be desired but compared to other brands the price is right.
I’m waiting for mine. Will use a puck ontop of Jack if possible. I do road side assistance. What is the air pressure you find your using to lift. Honda’s vs f150s
Hi thanks for watching. I find lighter vehicles can usually be lifted by about 70-80psi. The heavier vehicles you will need to get fairly close to the maximum pressure which I believe is about 113psi for this unit. The F-150 I always worked on was just a standard cab with an 8ft box and there usually wasn't much in the truck itself. So in the field you never what you'll run into. As for what compressor it's really a matter of how long you want to wait since it's a closed system. I would think a pancake style compressor would be enough for this jack.
@@jtreworks did you try measuring the air pressure in the jack with the heavier vehicles? I only tried lighter loads of a Focus, Camaro, and Transit, and the pressure was about 40 psi.
The compressor would have to be higher to fill it in a reasonably quick time by having a pressure differential, but it didn't need all that much pressure on my 3 ton version of the jack.
The 5 ton should take less pressure for the same lift load, but just more air volume.
How stable is the car when on the jack. Speed is not an issue, more important is how secure the vehicle is when elevated. Can you comment? Thanks
Hi, thanks for watching! The top of the jack does move around a bit especially when it is not at full height. I don't know exactly how much it moves side to side but it shouldn't fall over because of the cylinder inside. Once the jack is at full height it's a lot more solid. If you would like I can do a short video on how stable the jack is.
Edit: I measured the top of the jack at half height and it looks like it can move 1/2" or 12.7mm off-center.
@@jtreworks Sure a short video would help. I'm interested is seeing its stability not at full height but rather just over the height of a typical car wheel. Thank you
Sure I'll see what I can do here in the next couple of days.
@Darryl Carpenter I've uploaded a short video that should hopefully answer your question. ua-cam.com/users/shortsCxCV0mQq5_c
Edit: I don't know why it was set to private but it should work now.
Use jack stands after lifting, no safety in this jack.
Just used mine to throw on snow tires. I couldn't get it to lift either F150 or Escape by the differential. Not sure where the 3 ton rating rating comes from. Lifts the corners fast though, so it's a keeper!
Thanks for watching! I didn't have an issue lifting the F150(base model) I used to work on and it lifts the front end of my 2011 Ranger 4x4 just fine. They rate it the same as the professional air bag jacks but I'm not sure if the airbags of this one are the same as the professional ones but I do know that if the jack isn't placed quite right while lifting it can bind near the top not allowing it to lift properly(side effect of being cheap I guess). The trick I use is lifting the jack until it touches the vehicle then I bump the bottom of the jack towards the vehicle slightly. This gives it just enough offset at the bottom to have it nearly perfectly vertical when fully lifted.
Mabe your compressor too small
@@peacetoearth
I have a pressure gauge connected to the release valve port so I can see the actual pressure in the jack.
mine didn't require a lot of pressure, only 30 to 35 psi to support a compact car. A higher pressure compressor fills it up faster but it doesn't need very high pressure for operation from what I've seen.
If it doesn't lift with heavier loads and sufficient air pressure, it could be stiction in the telescoping metal column inside the center which keeps it from flopping over sideways.
Good tip to try nudging it sideways carefully a bit to try to free it up during the lift.
Some videos of people applying some grease to the metal column to help it slide, may be beneficial if judiciously applied.
I have a '17 Ranger 4x4 diesel and it is able to lift the frontend by the wheel crossmember. I only need to put a 4" pad on top to get it to do so. I also have bigger wheels on the pickup so that probably contributes to needing the pad. I can get both wheels off the ground enough to put stands underneath. It takes 8 bar/115psi to get it there. I haven't tried lifting by the rear diff yet. I use ramps when I want the whole rear end up. For everything else I just lift quarters. My compressor is a tiny 8 bar/24l/6gal. It has to refill halfway through lifting the frontend. That's still way better than trying to pump 2.5 metric tonnes on a floor jack in 6" increments.
I paid $139. Canadian direct to the company vevor & no tax free shipping.
I have to wonder how long that style of jack will last and how easy the repairs will be... I have an old Craftsman floor jack that I bought about 30 years ago and other than having had to top off the hydraulic oil twice during this time, it has been reliable... IIRC, it was made in China...
With respect to that rubber pad, I wouldn't be concerned about it as long as there is enough clearance to put 1" thick piece of board between the rubber pad and whatever I'm lifting... I always have a sacrificial piece of wood between the jack pad and whatever I'm lifting... Usually use a soft wood like cedar or maybe pine... Of course, as a Canadian, you have hockey pucks for such things... :)
My wife has a Honda Insight which is based on the Civic platform, so I am more concerned with whether whether there is enough room to put it on the side lift points and have enough room to have a bridge go across the top of the jack so that cribbing blocks can be placed on each side of the bridge so that the jack can be removed from underneath it...
I knew about the single jack point in the rear of the car, basically under the trunk, but more towards the bumper... I did not see a similar jack point in the front of the car though because there just was not room enough for me to get very far under the car when I recently changed oil and rotated the tires...
It's a pretty simple design by the looks of it and many of the parts you can disassemble. I have a similar hydraulic trolly jack that's probably as old as I am that I still keep because there's some jobs where you need fine jack adjustments which is what a hydraulic jack is perfect for.
The reason I was concerned about the rubber pad is that there is 2 cars I work on that are extremely low from the factory one of which is actually too low for this jack the other this jack only had 3/8 of an inch clearance from the steel plate so I made a plywood puck instead of the really soft rubber one and it works well. On my 2015 Civic though it fits fine so you should be able to put a piece of plywood on top of the rubber pad for the Insight if it has the same ground clearance.
Sometimes there's no jack point on the front of cars. A Hyundai and a Mazda I work on don't have a spot on the front so I have to jack from the pinch weld on each side.
@@jtreworks -- The Insight is basically the same body as the Civic, but with a bit more up-level features *allegedly*... As such, I suspect the clearance is pretty close...
I ended up buying one of this type of jack and the best way to add 2" of ground clearance is to put a 2" thick concrete block where each tire is going to end up and drive on top of it... Assuming you did not use too large of a block, then you now have an additional 2" of space to slide the jack under the car. That is what I used on my wife's Insight... I could not use jack ramps on this car because the angle of the clamps was wrong and the front air dam would hit before the tires started up the ramp... If you space the blocks right, you could gain a bit more without interfering with the space that is needed to slide the jack under the pinch seam...
One "advantage" to this new jack is that it game me to motivation to fix the leaky air hose that I had been just "working around" for quite awhile...
@@seanseoltoir This fall I planned on doing something similar. I have some scrap 2x6 that I can cut to make small pads to drive on to so I have a bit more clearance to add more blocks to the jack and lift the vehicle higher. Hopefully, it will make undercoating a little easier.
Nothing like a shiny new tool to make you want to spruce things up around the garage. :)
@@jtreworks -- I've actually gotten to the point of just leaving the 2" thick concrete block in my garage and using it as an indicator for my wife on how far she can park... There's also the classic tennis ball hanging from a string from the ceiling, but because the windshield is curved, that would alter the position where she parked slightly. I put a landscaping brick on the end of the concrete block to stop the car from rolling over it and the car's final parking spot is on top of the 2" concrete block... This extra 2" helps my old knees a bit when I'm getting out of the vehicle... My wife's depth perception is not that great, so I have to make it as idiot-proof as possible...
Awesome review. Damn those clear plastic airlines give me nightmares.
Thanks! Yes those clear plastic lines feel sketchy but when you do the calculations on such a small diameter line it isn't so bad. I have it now routed inside the handles since I've decided to keep it so less likely to get damaged.
@@jtreworks that line did look to be in a perilous position at the bottom, prone to scuffing and pinching.
Slot was supposed to be oriented towards the inside rather than the outside.
Hey, what kind of air compressor do you need to run these effectively?
Hi, thanks for watching! Since this jack is a closed system when lifting(no air escapes) almost any compressor can be used so long as it can reach the maximum rated pressure of the jack which is about 113psi on this model.
This has actually got me curious as to the smallest compressor that can be used. I'm currently editing a video about this.
@@jtreworks probably could do it even with an air storage tank, but if you use it up then you'd need something that can actively pump air.
Great video! Thanks so much.
I have pads made for pinch welds.
negative and picky ? why did you buy one?
Unfortunately, reviews of things with lack lustre quality will end up sounding quite negative. The reason I bought this is price and solely because of price since a professional quality item of the same style is easily 4x the cost which can't be justified with my limited use compared to a professional environment. I'm simply pointing out any draw backs for people to expect from this item as I'm sure there will be people out there purchasing it for similar reasons that I am. Thanks for watching.
Wow!
Great review. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Will a car portable compressor work ??
Technically as long as the pump you are using can supply the jack's maximum pressure it can lift a car. It's a closed system so all the air you put into the jack doesn't come out of the jack until you let the car down. ua-cam.com/video/Iucxa0GpMT0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=JTReworks
sounds like an awful lot of work just to bring it into spec. why can't we build our stuff here in the good ole USA?
There is a USA built version of this called RakJak by Zendex. The only problem is I can't justify the massive price difference since I do not use this equipment to make any income. The cheapest I can get the Zendex 3 bag air jack with the long handle here in Canada is about $1500. I paid about $250 for the Vevor air jack and will probably only put about another $100 into it at the very most and maybe a couple hours of my own time. If I was running a shop as a business yes I would probably buy the Zendex one. Thanks for watching.
C'est pas mal car celui-ci a une soupape de sécurité, celui que j'avais au garage avant en avait pas
Les soupapes de sécurité sont importantes. Merci d'avoir regardé.
Good idea, build quality looks very poor. Nice review, thanks, I'll stick with my 3 Ton hydraulic jack.
Yes, it's not the best build quality out there but it's also not of an unusable quality. The higher quality ones from what I could tell from videos are much better, however, they are at a price point that they just don't make sense for the average garage tinkerer. This doesn't replace my hydraulic jack simply because this air jack along with all others in this style that I've seen lack the lift precision that a hydraulic jack has. Thanks for watching.
put a hockey puck on top when jacking
Hockey pucks can work great but I avoid them as I've seen them split before especially in cold weather when they become as hard as a rock.
Could you be just a little bit more annel?
I probably could be. Really though, I believe you have to be a bit anal about something when you're going over it's pros and cons for a review. Thanks for watching.
how much ?
I bought it via Amazon so prices can change but I paid $220 CAD
Unfortunately that Chinese rubber is garbage and will deteriorate over a short time. Thank you for the review.
Thanks for pointing that out. I will definitly be keeping an eye on it over the next year as I use it and will report in if there are any issues.
@@jtreworks I have been using it for a year. The rubber is good enough and has not worn out. I think it will last for at least two years
I've been keeping an eye out for any reports of the bladder spontaneously letting go while raised and exploding, but haven't seen any yet.
I'd think it has to be an eventuality given that it's rubber, but people have had these for years and not a single instance of it popping yet.
Maybe someone can do an accelerated degradation test by leaving it exposed to UV and ozone, and trying to max out the pressure and get one to pop in video. Project Farm maybe😅.
As soon as I heard, “it’s all a-boot…..”. Goodbye cananada!
LMFAO
The pipe is on the wrong side
I'm not sure if I mentioned it in the video but when I was filming this I was still unsure if I was going to keep the jack. The hose was not trimmed to be the proper length so this was the best way to rout it. I do have it routed properly now. Thanks for watching.
Wouldn't trust that thing for a second ..
I've already used it for 2 oil changes and it's working fine so far, obviously I use jack stands. There's no way I would trust any floor jack to hold a vehicle in the air while working on it. I even use a pole to place jackstands if I can't easily place them by hand like under the axels of a longbox truck. Thanks for your input!
@@jtreworks I was referring to the quality of Chinese rubber . I like the idea just would not trust the quality
@@shawnl3154 I would hope it's at least half decent quality considering the amount of Chinese tires on the road(different rubber product I know). I'll eventually get to a tear down once I get tire season over with and deal with taking all the summer stuff out of storage.
I nearly died this very evening January 11, 2023 using two of these pneumatic jacks and six jackstands on the front of a car. Those pneumatic jackstands have no lateral support and it slid the car right past the jackstands contact points. Do not buy this product under any circumstances. There will be massive lawsuits on these. I barely got away with my life, swear to God.
I don't like to think I know more than other people especially people I don't know. Whatever you were doing to the front of that car I feel should have been done with different equipment. I've never had to do or have herd of a job on a vehicle that required 6 jack stands on one end of the vehicle. Also, these jacks are inherently unstable especially at mid lift which they are not really designed for. You are basically lifting up the car with a spring with an air jack like this. They are meant for full lift to their max height then drop them the inch or so to a jack stand that's it. If you need to do anything else use a standard hydraulic jack. One last thing, I have a short of me rocking this jack side to side at mid lift height and the car never fell off it and it's not so unstable that you couldn't drop a car an inch onto a jack stand unless you were pushing on the car as you dropped it. Sorry this jack didn't work out for you but thanks for watching.
Buy one in Europe for 104 euros ,so 700 dollars your been ripped off
calculate again. 1euro is now 1.05 U$
@@MrTavionyxx exchange all you want still rip off you actually reading what u wrote last
I'm not sure how you got the $700 but I bought this when the prices of many things where I live were still quite expensive. If I were to convert the price I paid $250cad tax included it would be 185 euros at today's conversion rate. Yes, it's a lot more than 104 euros but there was no cheaper option for me to purchase it in Canada. Not to mention some things just cost more here in Canada, for context an economy hydraulic quick lift jack was about the same price. Also, I'm sure there are some things I can purchase here that would cost more in Europe.
All in all, I don't regret my purchase and I don't feel ripped off since it suited my needs(space constraints in my garage) and I had a fair idea of what I was getting into. It has also allowed me to shorten how long it takes me to do all the tire changeovers I do. If I felt the price wasn't worth it, I probably wouldn't have purchased it and continued to use my slow trolly jack. Thanks for watching.
Why would you jack on a pinch weld anyway, thats just stupid.
Many modern uni-body vehicles have their manufacturer recommended jack point on the pinch weld. The only thing that would prevent you from jacking on a pinch weld of a uni-body would be if it's significantly rusted.
My 2008 civic front jack point was a pinch weld. Not sure what you're on about
Junk