Very excited about this new material; can't wait for my first batch to arrive. A couple of pre-coffee thoughts: - I wonder if using freezer paper instead of foil while drying would help give a smoother surface. - Also, would a second coat of rigidizer fill in those little impressions on the first one you made?
The only concern I would have about freezer paper (if we're talking about the same thing) is that the paper would absorb the wet and fall apart. That's why I used a non-porous material. As for patching, I mix fine SilkeMat fluff with thick Rigidizer and use as a putty (think spackle). Then dry and sand. I hope that helps. Have fun.
Thank you for that video. That covered most of my questions, so I am going to include some SilkeMat and rigidizer with my glass order. Plan on making a kiln shelf with some alteration to the process you used. I noticed the shelf sanded very easily, I assume it will be more difficult to sand after it has been fired, and actually that would be a good thing. In all your experiments have you tried plastic wrap (kitchen type stuff on a roll) stretched and taped to a piece of heavy float glass for the top and bottom.
Thank you, Bill. Good suggestions. Sanding, however, is very easy after it's fired. Just fire SLOWLY so it doesn't warp unless you are firing just dried with a glass project.
I did not use any separator in the test because my test project was a frit stretch and ZYP or Papyros would not be appropriate. If using the shelf for anything else, I only offered the separators as an option.
@barbaracashman Thanks. That does make sense. I have a very heavy full shelf that I can not lift in and out without help. A Silkemat shelf will be great to build on to transfer into the kiln.
I need to make a shelf that is 24"x 24". Would I need to use more than two layers of silkemat? For example, could I use 3 or even four layers of silkemat? I'm needing a sturdy shelf, that I'd like to use for test making a fused piece of about 20" x 20" of tack fused glass ranging from 8 to 12mm thick.
With that weight, I would suggest more than 2 layers. The corners would be the most fragile. So it depends on how you want to pick it up. Also, a layer of papyros or Thinfire.
Barb< i just watched this and your video on how to make a pot for pull glass thru, did u have to use zyp on the one u used to pull glass thru? did all the glass come out? ive been using the silke mat for designs in terracotta pots to pull thru .Lots of un-redeemeable glass sticks to the bottom, but not on the silkemat. was wondering if u have also had that problem???
I actually replied on my phone, but I don't see it here. No ZYP. It can contaminate your glass, so no. Glass pops out. Not particularly usable, but the mold is clean to use again.
I wonder if using the rigidizer alone as a skim coat on a kiln shelf would work?!? Also, have you tested how many times the surface can be used before it starts failing to release?
QUESTION: I have some large pieces of float glass. Could I put the rigidized shelf onto the glass as my ultra-flat background without needing the aluminum foil?
I'm not sure what you mean. Are you trying to dry? I only used the foil because the shelf was porous. Your glass alone will be fine. Lightly spray with vegetable oil to keep from sticking when drying.
Yes, during drying. I was wondering whether I'd need the foil if I sandwiched the SilkeMat between two sheets of glass to keep the SilkeMat flat, then the weights on top@@barbaracashman
On Amazon there are silicone sheets for sale that are shiny on one side (matte on the other). I wonder if you could use those instead of the foil? Should be easy to get off and give you a very smooth surface.
Love this and makes me think I can use to PRESS my glass between 2 pieces of silkmat…has anyone done this please let me know. Thanks Barbara for the idea
I really don't know. I would love to know what happens when you try it. I would suggest you do a test piece first to be sure it doesn't stick or mar in any way. Good luck!
The natural undulating surface of SilkeMat could be a challenge to sand level. If that doesn't bother you then I don't see an issue, especially if you can support it. You might want to consider 3 layers if your pieces are heavy. Hope that helps.
It really all depends on the size and relative humidity. It took me 3 days for a small shelf. Of course, the sooner you can remove the weights it will dry much faster. Just be careful of warping.
I can barely lift my larger shelves from the kiln, plus they cost well over $100. How much lighter do you think your shelves are? Also, did the aluminum foil leave a print? Could you omit the foil and just set up on your stiff plastic?
I did use a plastic sheet one side, but only had one so used a kiln shelf on the other side separated by aluminum foil since the shelf was porous. If you have 2 plastic sheets, then fine.
In the video, your demo pieces were full fused, but you did not say you used thin fire or papyrus. Which is correct, your video or your reply above? 7:56
Thanks Barbara! Thats awesome!
You are so welcome!
This is incredibly ingenious! Thank you for coming up with this. I will be trying this out soon.
Thank you! Best sure to join FB "SilkeMat Tips &Techniques" to see all kinds of things they are doing with SilkeMat.
This is great.
Thank you.
this stuff is magic, i love it!
Very excited about this new material; can't wait for my first batch to arrive. A couple of pre-coffee thoughts:
- I wonder if using freezer paper instead of foil while drying would help give a smoother surface.
- Also, would a second coat of rigidizer fill in those little impressions on the first one you made?
The only concern I would have about freezer paper (if we're talking about the same thing) is that the paper would absorb the wet and fall apart. That's why I used a non-porous material. As for patching, I mix fine SilkeMat fluff with thick Rigidizer and use as a putty (think spackle). Then dry and sand. I hope that helps. Have fun.
This is fascinating!
Coming from you Jamison, I am honored.
Thank you for that video. That covered most of my questions, so I am going to include some SilkeMat and rigidizer with my glass order. Plan on making a kiln shelf with some alteration to the process you used. I noticed the shelf sanded very easily, I assume it will be more difficult to sand after it has been fired, and actually that would be a good thing. In all your experiments have you tried plastic wrap (kitchen type stuff on a roll) stretched and taped to a piece of heavy float glass for the top and bottom.
Thank you, Bill. Good suggestions. Sanding, however, is very easy after it's fired. Just fire SLOWLY so it doesn't warp unless you are firing just dried with a glass project.
Thank you Barbara!
You're welcome, Susie! Thank you for all your support.
Am going to try this
I’m going to make this!
I did not use any separator in the test because my test project was a frit stretch and ZYP or Papyros would not be appropriate. If using the shelf for anything else, I only offered the separators as an option.
Wow thank you! Very cool!
Glad you liked it!
Fantastic. thanks. I've just started using Silkematt!
When you use it as a shelf do you still place it on small posts so there is air underneath?
TIA
It's a good idea. However, be sure to place several small posts evenly under the edges and center so it doesn't warp during firing. Make sense?
@barbaracashman Thanks. That does make sense. I have a very heavy full shelf that I can not lift in and out without help. A Silkemat shelf will be great to build on to transfer into the kiln.
I need to make a shelf that is 24"x 24". Would I need to use more than two layers of silkemat? For example, could I use 3 or even four layers of silkemat? I'm needing a sturdy shelf, that I'd like to use for test making a fused piece of about 20" x 20" of tack fused glass ranging from 8 to 12mm thick.
With that weight, I would suggest more than 2 layers. The corners would be the most fragile. So it depends on how you want to pick it up. Also, a layer of papyros or Thinfire.
Barb< i just watched this and your video on how to make a pot for pull glass thru, did u have to use zyp on the one u used to pull glass thru? did all the glass come out? ive been using the silke mat for designs in terracotta pots to pull thru .Lots of un-redeemeable glass sticks to the bottom, but not on the silkemat. was wondering if u have also had that problem???
I actually replied on my phone, but I don't see it here. No ZYP. It can contaminate your glass, so no. Glass pops out. Not particularly usable, but the mold is clean to use again.
I wonder if using the rigidizer alone as a skim coat on a kiln shelf would work?!? Also, have you tested how many times the surface can be used before it starts failing to release?
I have tried it, and honestly, kiln wash made for this purpose is a better choice.
Very interesting. Once you have the completed shelf do you need to use kiln wash or shelf paper with it?
I haven't. But it really depends on what you're firing on it and how hot. Opals will still have a tendency to stick.
Could you use the Rigidizer on a regular kiln shelf or refractory board to create a super smooth surface? @@barbaracashman
@shericoughlin9203 the rigidizer is not a kiln wash, so no to shelf. However, you might use it to rigidize a fiberboard. Worth a test.
QUESTION: I have some large pieces of float glass. Could I put the rigidized shelf onto the glass as my ultra-flat background without needing the aluminum foil?
I'm not sure what you mean. Are you trying to dry? I only used the foil because the shelf was porous. Your glass alone will be fine. Lightly spray with vegetable oil to keep from sticking when drying.
Yes, during drying. I was wondering whether I'd need the foil if I sandwiched the SilkeMat between two sheets of glass to keep the SilkeMat flat, then the weights on top@@barbaracashman
On Amazon there are silicone sheets for sale that are shiny on one side (matte on the other). I wonder if you could use those instead of the foil? Should be easy to get off and give you a very smooth surface.
Absolutely. I now use those sheets for classes, but hadn't discovered them when I made this video.
Love this and makes me think I can use to PRESS my glass between 2 pieces of silkmat…has anyone done this please let me know. Thanks Barbara for the idea
I really don't know. I would love to know what happens when you try it. I would suggest you do a test piece first to be sure it doesn't stick or mar in any way. Good luck!
@@barbaracashman Thanks ..I will certainly test first
Barbara do you think it will work as well with a longer piece? Like 36”?
The natural undulating surface of SilkeMat could be a challenge to sand level. If that doesn't bother you then I don't see an issue, especially if you can support it. You might want to consider 3 layers if your pieces are heavy. Hope that helps.
Have you or anyone ever done any tests to see if this product could be used for ceramic firing?
Are you asking about the top temp? SilkeMat is rated at 1000C (@1850F)
how many firings do you think it would last?
That all depends on what glass you are using & how high (opals will stick at fusing temps).
What is the drying time? While being pressed.
It really all depends on the size and relative humidity. It took me 3 days for a small shelf. Of course, the sooner you can remove the weights it will dry much faster. Just be careful of warping.
I can barely lift my larger shelves from the kiln, plus they cost well over $100. How much lighter do you think your shelves are?
Also, did the aluminum foil leave a print? Could you omit the foil and just set up on your stiff plastic?
I did use a plastic sheet one side, but only had one so used a kiln shelf on the other side separated by aluminum foil since the shelf was porous. If you have 2 plastic sheets, then fine.
Actually? Does this work with glass?
Not sure what you mean, but it is a shelf for glass fusing.
how long does shelf last?
I really don't know. It will depend on what you fire on it and the top temperature. It will eventually break down at high Temps and opal glass.
Can you full fuse on the silkeMat shelf?
Yes, but at full fuse, I would use Thinfire or Papyros on top of the board.
In the video, your demo pieces were full fused, but you did not say you used thin fire or papyrus. Which is correct, your video or your reply above? 7:56
Fantastic. thanks. I've just started using Silkematt!
When you use it as a shelf do you still place it on small posts so there is air underneath?
TIA
For some reason, I see your question was never answered. I sincerely apologize. I'm supposed to be given post notices. Answer is "Yes".