Please don't ever stop making videos! You explain things in ways that even dummies like me can pick up, understand, and put into practice. I thank you for that.
This was very helpful, thanks. I'd love to see a video on using Lightburn's "step-down" mode, i.e., when cutting acrylic. I'm having a hard time getting it to work.
Absolutely fantastic video…. I can’t wait to use this new knowledge I have of light burn… I had been wondering how people were creating a translucent effect when engraving their mirrors etc… Having literally just started engraving for the first time yesterday my mirrors have all done at the same power basically creating an outline
Thank you for that.... I wish it touched on fiber more, Having a time getting get good contrast or detail on stainless steel with my 60w MOPA. Your power explanation changed how i was thinking about it, Going to experiment now.
Great video and very informative. Actually the only and best one I’ve seen on this topic. I’ve been trying to understand the grayscale mode for quite some time. In your video you stated you tried it with your fiber laser, I’ve been trying to get good images on my fiber laser and just can’t. Any suggestions ? Image processing etc.
I would of liked to have seen the process for getting the depth in wood. In your video toward the end you showed like ghosted images like depth maps for using with greyscale mode, how do you make that ghosted imaged/depth map type image?
Have you had an opportunity since this was published to try a 40w diode laser for depth engraving using grayscale? I've got a 40w s1 on order, and I'd like to give it a shot. Just wondering how much I should tamp down my expectations after watching your video.
What I like to do is run a small section of the image, maybe 2" x 2", without doing any edits to see what Im working with. Grayscale mode results can vary wildly based on the material. Once I gauge what it looks like I start tweaking from there. Adding contrast is usually preferable. If its too dark or too light I mess with the gamma correction first. That usually helps out the most in those instances!
100% would most likely be overkill for the speed Im running the project. For some stuff, especially photo engraving, slower speed and lower power works better.
Ive been trying to learn that practice on and off for a few months and havent come across anything I really like yet. Every tutorial suggests a completely different software and process.
If you processed in IMAGR first you will never use Grayscale since it has already been dithered. I usually start with Jarvis or Stucki since they are the best in my opinion. From there you have to run tests to see what you like.
The theme of the video is fantastic and mode of explanation is phenomenal. Congratulations. But my english is not the best ( my fault) so, do you advise not to use 0% as min power? To engrave on canvas to do the "material test" of the lightburn is enough to find fine settings or do you advise engrave a section of the photo? I think this is a more realistic method although it forces a test for each job. Thank you in advance.
Great explanation, i noticed at the end of the video, you Said some modules are compatible some arent. When i try to use grayscale my laser doesnt engrave at a continues speed, it slows down in some áreas and it speeds up on other, is that the compatibility issues you are talking about? If not is there a workaround for this issue? I would like to engrave at a contínuos speed like i do in other engraving options (dithering) using grayscale. I use lightburn latest version with LaserPecker lx1 with the 10w module. Thanks in advance
I have a 30W cloudray QS fiber and I can’t for the life of me get grayscale mode to work. Anybody have any general settings they can share to get the images to look like this in the video? the information in the video is good but even taking THAT into account, my aluminum cards still don’t come out good at all. My laser ends up taking most of the black off the cards and leave like a faint shadow of the image itself. Any help would be appreciated. My brain is going to explode from all my attempts and I’m tired of wasting material lol.
@@justinlaser ya i can , But The image is duplicating in some parts of the adonized business card, and I don't know if it's due to the speed, power, or scanning angle , thanks
Please don't ever stop making videos! You explain things in ways that even dummies like me can pick up, understand, and put into practice. I thank you for that.
You knocked it out of the park with this explanation. Appreciate you.
Appreciate it! Thank you.
This will help me quit my dithering and get to it.
This was very helpful, thanks. I'd love to see a video on using Lightburn's "step-down" mode, i.e., when cutting acrylic. I'm having a hard time getting it to work.
I constantly learn new things on these machines thanks to videos like this. Awesome job!!
Hope you will make a video in detail for CO2 specifically engraving an image detailing its settings using Lightburn 🙏🏼
Yes I can do that.
Thank you for this video I have been told to use gray scale for my images and it just burns the wood with no detail this explains a lot
Thanks for watching hope it helps get that resolved!
Omg I m amazed by the explanation... Great Work...
Absolutely fantastic video…. I can’t wait to use this new knowledge I have of light burn… I had been wondering how people were creating a translucent effect when engraving their mirrors etc… Having literally just started engraving for the first time yesterday my mirrors have all done at the same power basically creating an outline
This is an awesome explanation! I have been struggling to comprehend this stuff. Keep bringin' it on J!!
Thank you for that.... I wish it touched on fiber more, Having a time getting get good contrast or detail on stainless steel with my 60w MOPA. Your power explanation changed how i was thinking about it, Going to experiment now.
Thanks for this video...first one I've seen on this topic and very well done.
Thank you appreciate it!
Great video and very informative. Actually the only and best one I’ve seen on this topic. I’ve been trying to understand the grayscale mode for quite some time. In your video you stated you tried it with your fiber laser, I’ve been trying to get good images on my fiber laser and just can’t. Any suggestions ? Image processing etc.
Excellent tutorial and clearly explained !
I would of liked to have seen the process for getting the depth in wood. In your video toward the end you showed like ghosted images like depth maps for using with greyscale mode, how do you make that ghosted imaged/depth map type image?
Have you had an opportunity since this was published to try a 40w diode laser for depth engraving using grayscale? I've got a 40w s1 on order, and I'd like to give it a shot. Just wondering how much I should tamp down my expectations after watching your video.
Great video. Very Helpful. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Awesome video. When adjusting in Lightburn (In Grayscale), would you suggest to make Contrast less and White more? Or other? thanks.
What I like to do is run a small section of the image, maybe 2" x 2", without doing any edits to see what Im working with. Grayscale mode results can vary wildly based on the material. Once I gauge what it looks like I start tweaking from there. Adding contrast is usually preferable. If its too dark or too light I mess with the gamma correction first. That usually helps out the most in those instances!
Thank you for the video, I am confused about one thing. Why do you set max power to 50% and not 100% or 80%.. Thank you again
100% would most likely be overkill for the speed Im running the project. For some stuff, especially photo engraving, slower speed and lower power works better.
Thank you. Wonder why i would then use a mode other than grayscale? If grayscale gives best result.
Great vid. Hopefully, I can get similar results from my 10W UV. What have you found that works the best in turning a picture into a height map?
Ive been trying to learn that practice on and off for a few months and havent come across anything I really like yet. Every tutorial suggests a completely different software and process.
Hay awesome thanks. But I have a question if I use a diode laser Using gray scale, could I engraved multiple times to get a 3-D effect or depth?
If importing an image to engrave tile processed by imagr do you choose grayscale? How do you know what settings to use?
If you processed in IMAGR first you will never use Grayscale since it has already been dithered. I usually start with Jarvis or Stucki since they are the best in my opinion. From there you have to run tests to see what you like.
The theme of the video is fantastic and mode of explanation is phenomenal. Congratulations.
But my english is not the best ( my fault) so, do you advise not to use 0% as min power?
To engrave on canvas to do the "material test" of the lightburn is enough to find fine settings or do you advise engrave a section of the photo? I think this is a more realistic method although it forces a test for each job.
Thank you in advance.
Great explanations! Thank you.
Great explanation, i noticed at the end of the video, you Said some modules are compatible some arent. When i try to use grayscale my laser doesnt engrave at a continues speed, it slows down in some áreas and it speeds up on other, is that the compatibility issues you are talking about? If not is there a workaround for this issue? I would like to engrave at a contínuos speed like i do in other engraving options (dithering) using grayscale.
I use lightburn latest version with LaserPecker lx1 with the 10w module. Thanks in advance
I know what it said, but I use my diode for variable depth all the time. It isn't fast, but it works fine.
Do you use the 40W? I have a 40W S1 xtool and will be attempting my first 3d illusion engraving.
Hello Justin,
do you recommend the settings used at 3:02 for getting sharp results for that specific picture or are those just place-holder numbers?
Thank you , this is so helpful
Would a Fiber Mopa 80watt cut 3d in metal with depth mapped images in greyscale?
Yes! The image mode is called "3D Sliced" when you use fiber laser in Lightburn. The settings look a little different but its the same idea.
Do you have a specific wood type for doing a 3D engraving with a Co2 laser? Mine is a 80 watt. I’ve heard Alder and Cedar are great types.
Could you make a video on how to make depth map images out of 2D AI created images?
Man Im still figuring that out myself. Keep running into dead ends with the available apps and need to learn more 3D skills.
Is the principle the same if I’m using a 30w fiber laser? I’m wanting to place a photo image on a Black medal tumbler. Thank you
great video !!
Perfect😮
Great video
Thank you
Very cool man !!! First video earned a sub too can’t wait to check out the channel
I have a 30W cloudray QS fiber and I can’t for the life of me get grayscale mode to work. Anybody have any general settings they can share to get the images to look like this in the video? the information in the video is good but even taking THAT into account, my aluminum cards still don’t come out good at all. My laser ends up taking most of the black off the cards and leave like a faint shadow of the image itself. Any help would be appreciated. My brain is going to explode from all my attempts and I’m tired of wasting material lol.
Can I do it that on atomstack x20 pro
Yes if you can use Lightburn
@@justinlaser ya i can ,
But The image is duplicating in some parts of the adonized business card, and I don't know if it's due to the speed, power, or scanning angle , thanks
@@justinlaser
Or horizontal lines appear along the image.