I forgot to mention in the video, the custom block would be improved by making it out of acrylic. The wood block is going to expand and contract slightly based on the humidity in your shop. That being said, I've been using wood focus blocks for a long time now and haven't noticed enough of a difference to switch to acrylic.
Why use a percentage? The difference between the commanded size and the actual cut size is the kerf of the laser. This does not scale up and down, it stays the same regardless of the size of the piece being cut. It would be better to teach how to measure the kerf, and enter it once into LightBurn's kerf compensation, and then have everything cut accurately to size.
*This is such a FABULOUS idea, thank you!* 9:15 Instead of _guessing,_ 8.33 / 8.57 = 0.97 and then changing 103%, it's easier to do the actual math. This calculation is for making it smaller, then you have to guess. To make it bigger, use 8.57 / 8.33 = 1.029 (then he rounded to 1.03). So you can put that in the percentage field. However, it's more accurate (even though it won't make a substantial difference in this case) to do the math correctly. SO; if you had something designed at 7" and it printed at 8" you can correct easily and accurately. You want to go from 8 to 7, or larger to smaller. So 7/8 = 0.875. If the print is smaller than the design, put the smaller number on the bottom. Thus [Smaller / Larger = ]. Or [Larger / Smaller = ]. In LightBurn you can enter [8 * 0.875] and LightBurn will do the math for you. It's even smart enough to enter [8 * (7/8)] and get the right answer!
Nice video! Took me awhile to figure the importance of this out!! I did find for me that going a bit further than a line was helpful. I ran the alphabet down the ramp, one line upper case and another lower case, just a line engrave. For me, it was easier to find the optimal distance.
Life saver. I thought i damaged my laser somehow. Turns out that positioning bar on my 20W PHECDA was 3mm off, which is way more than i thought it could be. Thank you.
@@LetsMakeAThingOne more thing that just crossed my mind...I have a Ray5 10watt and it has an adjustable glare shield, it wouldn't be a good idea to focus this way with it as it would probably move over time. Maybe something worth mentioning in the video.
@@jarogrozni I agree with your statement. I will do the ramp test as he did but I would reference off of the saddle as we use with the 50.00 mm cylinder to set our 10 watt laser. 😀🛫
Great content as always. I see you are using the B1 40w. Did you ever do a "fix it" video for the 40w like you did for the 30w? Or did they fix things in the newer model?
Hi, very useful and clear video. However I noticed that plywood, at least every piece I have even from hobby stores, has some tiny warping. This will distort the measurement results of the ramp test (some error will be added) . Would it be better to use MDF for the ramp test engraving because it is more flat and not noticeable warping? Any other material? Any advice/comment, please. Thank you.
@@LetsMakeAThing Hi, many thanks for so quick reply. I'll give a go with MDF. Also will check your other videos on your channel. Find them very helpful. All the best.
If I have just a nozzle sticking out from my laser box as I took the shield off do I just place the measurement box under it with the nozzle resting on the box?
Wonder if a test was done with the test block that shipped with the laser and if an engraving was done with the new test block. If there was a visual difference
It depends on the laser and how far off is the focal distance. Also depends on the material and what is being engraved. Besides myself, I've had lots of people tell me that after they made their own focus block they saw a clear difference.
Now this is a fantastic video, with your Longer Ray do you use a focus block that came with your laser I have a Longer Ray 10 that uses a 50.00 mm cylinder to set the focus. It would be interesting to know by using your test to see how accurate your test block is compared to the factory. Cylinder. With your method I know that your spot would be right on point. The ramp test is great way to find your actual focal point. 😁🛫 I read your reply to the question under mine! I see that you do use a kickstand as the factory set up! I will be testing mine tonight.😁🛫
I've been using a custom focus block for the 30 watt module on my B1. I made this video because I just got the new 40 watt module (future video) and wanted to share the how to on this method. It wasn't until I got into image engraving that I learned about ramp tests and made the custom block for my B1. Prior to that I had just used the standard acrylic block that came with my Ray5 and Ortur lasers.
Logically, you want the focal point of the laser to be in the middle of the material (half the thickness). However, the true focal distance of the laser is going to vary based on the module, manufacturing process, and QA controls. That's why I recommend the ramp test to determine the optimal focal distance to the top of a material. You could then add or subtract half the thickness of the material you are cutting to your custom focus distance.
Hello. I have problem with my laser. I thinked maybe changable Lens is damaged so I buyed one for 20$ on longer website. I have b1 w30. I tryed now to make focus with your video but its dont help. I saw now that the laser beam is almost invisible I cant cut plywood 3mm with 100% power and speed 100mm/m what can be problem, can you help me? 🥺
I forgot to mention in the video, the custom block would be improved by making it out of acrylic. The wood block is going to expand and contract slightly based on the humidity in your shop. That being said, I've been using wood focus blocks for a long time now and haven't noticed enough of a difference to switch to acrylic.
Why use a percentage? The difference between the commanded size and the actual cut size is the kerf of the laser. This does not scale up and down, it stays the same regardless of the size of the piece being cut.
It would be better to teach how to measure the kerf, and enter it once into LightBurn's kerf compensation, and then have everything cut accurately to size.
*This is such a FABULOUS idea, thank you!* 9:15 Instead of _guessing,_ 8.33 / 8.57 = 0.97 and then changing 103%, it's easier to do the actual math. This calculation is for making it smaller, then you have to guess. To make it bigger, use 8.57 / 8.33 = 1.029 (then he rounded to 1.03). So you can put that in the percentage field. However, it's more accurate (even though it won't make a substantial difference in this case) to do the math correctly.
SO; if you had something designed at 7" and it printed at 8" you can correct easily and accurately. You want to go from 8 to 7, or larger to smaller. So 7/8 = 0.875.
If the print is smaller than the design, put the smaller number on the bottom. Thus [Smaller / Larger = ]. Or [Larger / Smaller = ].
In LightBurn you can enter [8 * 0.875] and LightBurn will do the math for you. It's even smart enough to enter [8 * (7/8)] and get the right answer!
Thanks for clarifying the math. Explaining it on the fly while trying to record a how-to is not a strength of mine. 🤣
@@LetsMakeAThing Yeah, multitasking presenting takes talent... You've got plenty!
I'm an excellent poofreader. ;-)
Nice video! Took me awhile to figure the importance of this out!!
I did find for me that going a bit further than a line was helpful. I ran the alphabet down the ramp, one line upper case and another lower case, just a line engrave.
For me, it was easier to find the optimal distance.
That's a great idea! Thanks for sharing!
Life saver. I thought i damaged my laser somehow. Turns out that positioning bar on my 20W PHECDA was 3mm off, which is way more than i thought it could be. Thank you.
You're welcome! Glad the video was helpful!
Starting to wonder if this is why I can't get a decent cut from my phecda
I haven’t seen this before and I’m amazed on how far off my machine was. Detail looks much better.
Awesome! Glad the video was helpful!
I LOVE the reference at the beggining to the Have love will travel :) Great video as always!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
@@LetsMakeAThingOne more thing that just crossed my mind...I have a Ray5 10watt and it has an adjustable glare shield, it wouldn't be a good idea to focus this way with it as it would probably move over time. Maybe something worth mentioning in the video.
@@jarogrozni I agree with your statement. I will do the ramp test as he did but I would reference off of the saddle as we use with the 50.00 mm cylinder to set our 10 watt laser. 😀🛫
Great tip and a really smart way to figure it out
Thank you! Glad you found it useful!
Add .01 for laser kerf (width of beam)
So, just to get one thing clear, the focus block is meant for ENGRAVING only, not cutting....right?
Thanks for sharing. Was there a difference in height between your block and the kick stand?
There was! My kickstand height was 7.75 mm and the final height for my custom focus block is 8.57mm.
Great content as always. I see you are using the B1 40w. Did you ever do a "fix it" video for the 40w like you did for the 30w? Or did they fix things in the newer model?
The 40 watt (and the second gen 30 watts) do not have the same problem as the first gen 30 watts. I didn't have to do any fixes to it.
This guy is a genious. Thanks brother.
Glad you found it helpful!
Thank for the infomations! I will test on my Zbaitu 20W. A hug from Brazil!
Hello Brazil!
Hi, very useful and clear video. However I noticed that plywood, at least every piece I have even from hobby stores, has some tiny warping. This will distort the measurement results of the ramp test (some error will be added) . Would it be better to use MDF for the ramp test engraving because it is more flat and not noticeable warping? Any other material? Any advice/comment, please. Thank you.
MDF would work as well. I've found that as long as it's mostly flat it works fine for the test.
@@LetsMakeAThing Hi, many thanks for so quick reply. I'll give a go with MDF. Also will check your other videos on your channel. Find them very helpful. All the best.
Has your stepping been set correctly? 3% is a pretty big error. I was led to understand that finest focus should be slightly below the work surface.
If I have just a nozzle sticking out from my laser box as I took the shield off do I just place the measurement box under it with the nozzle resting on the box?
Great question! If you don't have a shield you can measure directly from the nozzle.
Excellent information that I haven’t seen anywhere else. Subscribed.
Glad you found it useful! Thanks for the sub!
Wonder if a test was done with the test block that shipped with the laser and if an engraving was done with the new test block. If there was a visual difference
It depends on the laser and how far off is the focal distance. Also depends on the material and what is being engraved. Besides myself, I've had lots of people tell me that after they made their own focus block they saw a clear difference.
Now this is a fantastic video, with your Longer Ray do you use a focus block that came with your laser I have a Longer Ray 10 that uses a 50.00 mm cylinder to set the focus. It would be interesting to know by using your test to see how accurate your test block is compared to the factory. Cylinder. With your method I know that your spot would be right on point.
The ramp test is great way to find your actual focal point. 😁🛫
I read your reply to the question under mine! I see that you do use a kickstand as the factory set up! I will be testing mine tonight.😁🛫
I've been using a custom focus block for the 30 watt module on my B1. I made this video because I just got the new 40 watt module (future video) and wanted to share the how to on this method. It wasn't until I got into image engraving that I learned about ramp tests and made the custom block for my B1. Prior to that I had just used the standard acrylic block that came with my Ray5 and Ortur lasers.
I'm interested in your ebook that you mentioned. but i can't find that in your description. please help.
Sorry, the eBook is outdated at this point and so it's no longer available.
@@LetsMakeAThing Thank you for your reply.🙂
You may want to calibrate your laser in lightburn to cut the size you enter in lightburn. *machine settings.
Yep, I messed up and did this before I calibrated my machine with the new laser module.
Lightburn rocks.
Yes it does!
Is it logical to think that the optimal laser focus , for cutting, would be half the thickness?
Logically, you want the focal point of the laser to be in the middle of the material (half the thickness). However, the true focal distance of the laser is going to vary based on the module, manufacturing process, and QA controls. That's why I recommend the ramp test to determine the optimal focal distance to the top of a material. You could then add or subtract half the thickness of the material you are cutting to your custom focus distance.
@@LetsMakeAThing Thank you. I wanted to understand if my thought process was correct about lasers (not owning one yet).
Hello. I have problem with my laser. I thinked maybe changable Lens is damaged so I buyed one for 20$ on longer website. I have b1 w30. I tryed now to make focus with your video but its dont help. I saw now that the laser beam is almost invisible I cant cut plywood 3mm with 100% power and speed 100mm/m what can be problem, can you help me? 🥺
You are a master laser goat ..
Damn, mine was off by like 3mm!