This was such an educational video for me you’ve really opened my eyes to more information and put me in the right direction!! Thank you!! Great video!
This is great! I never even noticed the grayscale option before. Thank you! If I may make one suggestion: Adjust the audio level of your intro song. It's very loud compared to both other UA-cam videos but more importantly your narration.
New to the laser world and this is exactly what i have been looking for. Wanting to do a few images with this technique! I love the black in the deeper parts of the images , like the lion you did! Super excited.
There are a lot of things I would change. I have found that a single pass with maximum power will treat the different parts of the grain of the wood the same. Go slower or multiple passes and you increase how much of the grain shows up. I go with maximum power and maximum LPI and then adjust the speed to the material and depth of cut desired. If there is still too much burn then I might do a second pass very lightly to cut away the darker surface but knowing there is a cost in that the grain of the wood will be stronger. I also increase the contrast from nearly white to black as that creates the most range for the laser to set its power. There are 256 possible power settings but not enough white-to-black range might leave only ten and then if your total power is low then the steps will also be less per setting, so total power at a faster speed going from white to black will leave a much sharper image. When choosing an image care is needed to see if the shading is from height or from lighting. As is the case with the bee there is much stronger lighting on one side than the other. The deeper your 3D cut of the bee the worse it will look. In such cases, dots or dither will look much better because your eye is judging depth by the lighting to the side, and if you cut deeply you will cut the dark side of the shape much deeper than the light side which if in strong lighting will put shaded things and dark things (like a pair of glasses) obviously as a hole and right next to it things light up like an ear as high as a cheek or different sides of a nose with a big drop-off. If the image is really good for relief carving then it will look strange as a dot or dither as the cues your eye expects of lighting will not be there
Thank you for the video!!! Would you be open to creating a video showing how to do the half tone and dither for the 3D effect shown near the end?? And any particular wood that would be better to use the half tone/dither?? Thanks again!!!
Actually amazing ..... I will keep checking out your video's to get the big picture on how to use those laser engraving machines .... I didn't buy one yet ...HAHAHAHA.
That bee grayscale actually have a light source and shadows so it is not the best example to be used as a hight map. I'd like to see a neutral grayscale hight map done with multiple passes.
stl is a format recognized by the plotters that run a cnc router. the grayscale hes using has nothing to do with an stl it is simply the lighting effects, ocular occlusion ect from the 3d rendering software it was modeled and the image created for thumbnail purposes with. technically any image can be used but your 3d effect will not be perfect. the only reason hes able to do this is because the common use of the lighting technique ppl use for making these. so no you dont need special software per say however if you want an actual stl it will require knowledge some 3d modeling program. you could use photoshop or equivalent and carefully adjust and play around with levels ect until you get something workable.
Hey Chris I talked with you recently about glass somewhere else (-: Nice to have found you here. Just curious, this video was done maybe 2 years ago based on the first reply post. Wanted to ask you what would you change about how you did this engraving or your recommendations during the video, or, is there anything technology wise that might have made a difference that is now available?... Talk to you soon...... Bob and Carla
I've been looking for that Poseidon/King Neptune picture everywhere on the web but cannot find it. Another youtuber has the same picture. Do you know what this picture is called?
Love it! Can anyone point me in the right direction in creating the image to begin with? I have 2d images I'd like to add depth to and engrave on leather.
i do this with a diode laser, cant afford a co2 yet... when im done i brush them of with an acid etch brush with the bristles cut down at an angel as so i can have dif bristle strength as i brush it off
Could you do a tutorial or link to some extra info for us other peasant novices lol? Curious how you're incorporating the acid etching with your laser stuff. Wouldn't mind seeing some finished products as well. Cheers!
where can i download files to add to my library to have basic settings for different materials? would love to save time instead of buying each material and testing and testing until i find all the right settings.
I'm in the middle of trying to burn a 3d File that I bought as a pdf. The person told me he transferred it from an STL file, so I think he may have done what you did. Playing with the speed and power to get the depth I want - hopefully I don't over do the the burning. Thanks for your demonstration. Now I need to figure out how to clean the smoke off, just a light sanding doesn't achieve what I want in the end.
Hi , thanks for this video its very kool. Crazy what the difference in shading makes. By the way were can i find the file of the 2nd Amendment. Im getting a laser this week or next week and would Love to do some coasters for a friend. Thanks again
I am a bit confused, you started out looking for an STL file it appears you just downloaded the JPG image rather than the STL file. If you had bought the STL file could Lightburn import it or would you have had to convert it to an image file? Do you just look for STL as a source of good grayscale?
@16:50 I WAS ABLE TO GET 3D DEPTH WITH JARVIS AT 50 SPEED AND 20/20 POWER... THE SMALLER THE PIECE, THE BETTER.. ANYTHING LESS THAN 12"X12" WILL SHOW DEPTH... THIS IS USING JUST A PNG IMAGE FILE, NO STL
There are STL viewers and apps for Mac.. But you don't want the actual STL, you need the grayscale IMAGE of the STL which would be in some sort of photo format.. .png, .jpg, .bmp
newbie here and very interested in 3D variable depth laser engraving - Can you ONLY do 3D grayscale (variable depth) with specific laser machines? I don't want to invest in one of these hobby lasers and find out I can't do this 3D grayscale/variable depth engraving.
Amazing. Esp the half Tone ones are very interesting. What wood have you used in both? The 3D abd dither engraving? What wood works best for engraving? Thanks. Great video
It doesnt need to be an STL grayscale image. Any photo that has great dimension and shading will work. The images of STLs are just fool proof for this process so you can learn.
really any unshaded 3d model product image would work. google around for sites that have models available. you can can learn to use a 3d package and customize things even more
@@petervandoren5490 No Im talking about the Art Library at the top right @1:07 the graphics ,like animals, water bottles, cars etc. They are like png files or clipart stuff..? MAYBE Im just misunderstanding.. LOL
Kinda weird you commented on my search history… but fyi the leaf batteries were for two conversions we were completing. One Mini Cooper and a series III Land Rover
You are not putting a photo on the material... you are removing material at various depths... why would you sand something that is going to be removed? Waste of time. Now for photos, yes. You want a beautiful smooth surface to put those laser dots on
YOu missed the point of sanding after: to lighten up the areas that should be lightest overall. Those areas stand taller because they were lasered at minimal power. (You’re thinking of preparing wood, in general. This is post-lasering treatment of wood engraved for the purpose of creating 3D effects, where the darker the area, the deeper it is engraved, and vice versa.)
Thank you again Chris for another great video. Can't wait to give it a try today!
Love your work... Just starting to learn this depth lasering and watching your video helped me figure some things out. Can't wait to try
This was such an educational video for me you’ve really opened my eyes to more information and put me in the right direction!! Thank you!! Great video!
Sweet! Thank you for the great video. I came from the galvo fiber world and had no idea this could be achieved on a co2 machine.
Love this method, makes gathering resources incredibly easy.
Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks. Newbie to laser engraving and can't wait to try this awesome idea!
Awesome. Cannot wait to try this. Thanks so much for taking the time.
Awesome workmanship...
Being new, I greatly appreciate your tutorial...
Thanks for all your Information and Knowledge !!
Wow that another level of laser engraving. Congrats I will a try.
This is great! I never even noticed the grayscale option before. Thank you!
If I may make one suggestion: Adjust the audio level of your intro song. It's very loud compared to both other UA-cam videos but more importantly your narration.
So cool! love that 3D looks insane
New to the laser world and this is exactly what i have been looking for. Wanting to do a few images with this technique! I love the black in the deeper parts of the images , like the lion you did! Super excited.
Awesome work and tips. Thank you for sharing.
I am so glad I found you, thank you thank you
Great video and amazing work! Thanks
There are a lot of things I would change. I have found that a single pass with maximum power will treat the different parts of the grain of the wood the same. Go slower or multiple passes and you increase how much of the grain shows up. I go with maximum power and maximum LPI and then adjust the speed to the material and depth of cut desired. If there is still too much burn then I might do a second pass very lightly to cut away the darker surface but knowing there is a cost in that the grain of the wood will be stronger. I also increase the contrast from nearly white to black as that creates the most range for the laser to set its power. There are 256 possible power settings but not enough white-to-black range might leave only ten and then if your total power is low then the steps will also be less per setting, so total power at a faster speed going from white to black will leave a much sharper image.
When choosing an image care is needed to see if the shading is from height or from lighting. As is the case with the bee there is much stronger lighting on one side than the other. The deeper your 3D cut of the bee the worse it will look. In such cases, dots or dither will look much better because your eye is judging depth by the lighting to the side, and if you cut deeply you will cut the dark side of the shape much deeper than the light side which if in strong lighting will put shaded things and dark things (like a pair of glasses) obviously as a hole and right next to it things light up like an ear as high as a cheek or different sides of a nose with a big drop-off.
If the image is really good for relief carving then it will look strange as a dot or dither as the cues your eye expects of lighting will not be there
Good catch. Thank you for adding those super tips.
Love these!!
Thanks for the tip! I haven't attempted this since first acquiring our machine. I will have to give it another go and show you what we do!
Great work! Thanks for sharing!!
On anodized aluminum that would look pretty cool as well. Thank you.
I keep posting this link to the various FB laser groups. Thanks so much, soooo many questions on how to.
I found it from a link you post on fb, thanks
Thank you. Learned a lot
Thank you for the video!!!
Would you be open to creating a video showing how to do the half tone and dither for the 3D effect shown near the end?? And any particular wood that would be better to use the half tone/dither??
Thanks again!!!
Great Video
very good tip, and congratulations for sharing. Share is good for the heart and we feel you have a good one. thank you. (FilipeMaia Portugal)
Nice video thanks 😊👍
Wow Yes 🙌 this helps thanks dude 😮
very cool, thank you
Awesome!
Actually amazing ..... I will keep checking out your video's to get the big picture on how to use those laser engraving machines .... I didn't buy one yet ...HAHAHAHA.
Thank you for your great video - may I ask which laser you have used?
Thank you very much!!!!
Hey, very nice work! Can you do this only with Lightburn? Or can you do it using RD Works, or in my case using AutoLaser with a Top Wisom controller?
That bee grayscale actually have a light source and shadows so it is not the best example to be used as a hight map. I'd like to see a neutral grayscale hight map done with multiple passes.
very good video
Awesome instruction. How can I convert one of my own vectors into a Sylvan type file?
Köszönjük!
Great video, really appreciate the detailed explanation. I do have a ? Have you ever cut green floral foam with your laser?
thats a good idea and i am about to go try to do it.
Wow keren. Baru tahu kalau laser bisa untuk grafir 3d
Amazing
Great video and thanks for posting it. Is it possible to turn a regular photo into a STL or do you need special software to do that?
stl is a format recognized by the plotters that run a cnc router. the grayscale hes using has nothing to do with an stl it is simply the lighting effects, ocular occlusion ect from the 3d rendering software it was modeled and the image created for thumbnail purposes with. technically any image can be used but your 3d effect will not be perfect. the only reason hes able to do this is because the common use of the lighting technique ppl use for making these. so no you dont need special software per say however if you want an actual stl it will require knowledge some 3d modeling program. you could use photoshop or equivalent and carefully adjust and play around with levels ect until you get something workable.
This is really great. What kind of Laser do you use? CO2 or Diode-Laser? I ask, cause im going to buy one, but i am not sure which one....
Amazing. I would love to learn how to do it.
Try a makerspace in your area maybe! University or college near you.
thanks mate
спасибо, дельные советы
Did you use borax or something to make it look darker for the dithering approach? Awesome video, thank you.
Awesome jobs subbed
Amazing!!! Can you show how to do these on Inkscape?
Sensacional
Just curious what do you recommend for the type of wood to do this kind of work Mama thank you
Thank you for the nod to the gals.
Great video 👍🏽
New sub
Quick question?
Can a diode laser cut a 3d stl file?
Hey Chris I talked with you recently about glass somewhere else (-: Nice to have found you here. Just curious, this video was done maybe 2 years ago based on the first reply post. Wanted to ask you what would you change about how you did this engraving or your recommendations during the video, or, is there anything technology wise that might have made a difference that is now available?... Talk to you soon...... Bob and Carla
SWEET
I've been looking for that Poseidon/King Neptune picture everywhere on the web but cannot find it. Another youtuber has the same picture. Do you know what this picture is called?
Love it! Can anyone point me in the right direction in creating the image to begin with? I have 2d images I'd like to add depth to and engrave on leather.
If I wanted to design my own coins, could I use a laser engraver to engrave the negative images onto steel dies?
i do this with a diode laser, cant afford a co2 yet... when im done i brush them of with an acid etch brush with the bristles cut down at an angel as so i can have dif bristle strength as i brush it off
Could you do a tutorial or link to some extra info for us other peasant novices lol? Curious how you're incorporating the acid etching with your laser stuff. Wouldn't mind seeing some finished products as well. Cheers!
where can i download files to add to my library to have basic settings for different materials? would love to save time instead of buying each material and testing and testing until i find all the right settings.
I'm in the middle of trying to burn a 3d File that I bought as a pdf. The person told me he transferred it from an STL file, so I think he may have done what you did. Playing with the speed and power to get the depth I want - hopefully I don't over do the the burning. Thanks for your demonstration. Now I need to figure out how to clean the smoke off, just a light sanding doesn't achieve what I want in the end.
You can run a dither or halftone in negative as a quick light clean passs
Hi I would like to know if can it work on Creality falcon laser 5w/10W engraving and cutting machine?
would this process work for laser engraving metal?
Hi, what are the controllers that support 3d engravings?
do you adjust focus between passes
Hi , thanks for this video its very kool. Crazy what the difference in shading makes. By the way were can i find the file of the 2nd Amendment. Im getting a laser this week or next week and would Love to do some coasters for a friend. Thanks again
can blue doide lasers do this too or do you need a co2 laser ?
is this for co2 laser? the diode does not work or is it? it's my doubt ...
I am a bit confused, you started out looking for an STL file it appears you just downloaded the JPG image rather than the STL file. If you had bought the STL file could Lightburn import it or would you have had to convert it to an image file? Do you just look for STL as a source of good grayscale?
Yes. STL is a good source for grayscale images.
Thank you. How can you get same results from prepping an image high def psd file
hand adjusting the grayscale imagery is the only way i know of but it is doable
did you do constant power
Is this also makeable with a diode laser?
yes but not as much detail and depth because of focus and power restriction
Will it laser an etch a sketch?
What's up with the 56k modem connection sound at 9:45?
for some reason my line interval is in mm but my rulers outside of when I double click are inches whats the deal
What is mW of the laser are you use in this video?
could you do the dither version say with the fiber laser on a yeti or something? Would that work?
Grayscale works on fiber and the new lighting will have 3d slicing for 3d mapped images
What settings are you using?
@16:50 I WAS ABLE TO GET 3D DEPTH WITH JARVIS AT 50 SPEED AND 20/20 POWER... THE SMALLER THE PIECE, THE BETTER.. ANYTHING LESS THAN 12"X12" WILL SHOW DEPTH... THIS IS USING JUST A PNG IMAGE FILE, NO STL
The 3D is intriguing but what program is this? thanks.
It’s LightBurn
@@obamatypebeat Thanks!
How long the machine takes to finish one?
Is this only possible with CO2?
Will this work on metal?
Is an SPL files a windows based file ? , would this work on a Mac or would you need a different file format
There are STL viewers and apps for Mac.. But you don't want the actual STL, you need the grayscale IMAGE of the STL which would be in some sort of photo format.. .png, .jpg, .bmp
I saw something like a lichtenberg effect while you were burning that wood.
newbie here and very interested in 3D variable depth laser engraving - Can you ONLY do 3D grayscale (variable depth) with specific laser machines? I don't want to invest in one of these hobby lasers and find out I can't do this 3D grayscale/variable depth engraving.
I know the ruida controllers can. Not sure about the gcode machines. But if they’re compatible with LightBurn you should be good.
Can you Grey scale on slate?
Is that CO2 laser or ordinary Blue laser engraver ?
Hi, I would rather enlarge first, then sharpen. This avoids enlarging the sharpening artifacts.
Amazing. Esp the half Tone ones are very interesting. What wood have you used in both? The 3D abd dither engraving?
What wood works best for engraving?
Thanks. Great video
softwoods with light grain. cedar is my personal fav
May I ask what engraver are you using as far as brand/model?
After many years of looking for the best I can find for the price... THUNDEr
These looks amazing. I'm curious why it needs to be an STL file for this effect when you aren't using the STL file itself and just the image.
It doesnt need to be an STL grayscale image. Any photo that has great dimension and shading will work. The images of STLs are just fool proof for this process so you can learn.
@@HouseOfLasers I appreciate the reply.
really any unshaded 3d model product image would work. google around for sites that have models available. you can can learn to use a 3d package and customize things even more
What you really need is a displacement map. You'll get much better results.
I’m going to be giving this ago
which software do you use?
Lightburn is the best option.
Can I ask whered did you get your art library and IF you could share?
Look on EBay
www.ebay.com/itm/262856381245
@@petervandoren5490 No Im talking about the Art Library at the top right @1:07 the graphics ,like animals, water bottles, cars etc. They are like png files or clipart stuff..? MAYBE Im just misunderstanding.. LOL
Good luck with finding the replacement battery for you Nissan Leaf. I figured you have got it already by this time.
Kinda weird you commented on my search history… but fyi the leaf batteries were for two conversions we were completing. One Mini Cooper and a series III Land Rover
@@HouseOfLasers nice, I really interested in EV conversion.... BTW I learned a lot from this tutorial too. Thank you very much.
What is your laser model?
Thunder Nova 51
Are you starting with a 3D STL model?
No, just a grayscale image of an STL
Not sure you could get that lead in music any louder... Appreciate if you try though
Thanks for the technique! But sand before, not after, it will be better
You are not putting a photo on the material... you are removing material at various depths... why would you sand something that is going to be removed? Waste of time. Now for photos, yes. You want a beautiful smooth surface to put those laser dots on
YOu missed the point of sanding after: to lighten up the areas that should be lightest overall. Those areas stand taller because they were lasered at minimal power. (You’re thinking of preparing wood, in general. This is post-lasering treatment of wood engraved for the purpose of creating 3D effects, where the darker the area, the deeper it is engraved, and vice versa.)