#fakenews. The lack of swearing, lost parts, broken bolts, beer cans and general mayhem makes this video seem fake. Every time I work on crap I guarantee at least 2 beers one bloody knuckle and one lost bolt. Maybe time for me to take a knoble moto class
@@KnobleMoto I respectfully disagree. Although the book says you need to, i did the stator on my 97' Softail and we just pulled my buddies 06 Heritage and left the clutch in place.
Some you do, some you don’t. Just did my 2001 FXDXT and tried to do it without, didn’t have enough slack in the primary chain to get the compensator sprocket off. The part I received said in the installation instructions that it is possible, when the bike has enough miles on it that the primary chain has enough slack. My 2001 with 30k miles, obviously didn’t have enough. Lord knows I was hoping I won’t have to. Unfortunately I also have a primary chain adjuster guide that is cracked and of course every HD dealer is closed on Sunday around here. Couldn’t get it back on the road today. Would have been a beautiful day to ride.
@@KnobleMoto Always willing to help. Also use silicone grease when putting the plug back together...That plug sits right up front and catches all the water and shit of the road....Cheap insurance.
THANK YOU! Been assisting a friend on this job. He says it's one of the best Harley procedure videos he's ever seen - enough information and in all the right places, and the video shows clearly the steps. We'd been stuck at the part where you take the old wires out of that squared plug. Anyway big thanks, this was exactly what we needed :)
"Then just replace your primary and you're ready to go." Yea, for those who are not familiar with Harley's and watching this, you should know the clutch adjustment is right there and after pulling out your primary and putting it back in, you're going to want to make sure that is adjusted correctly. In some cases all this tinkering around will cause an issue here. You'll want to loosen the clutch on the CABLE first so there's plenty of slack. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch adjustment on the rear primary, and then use the allen to tighten it just until it reaches, then lock the nut in place. Then you can adjust at the cable and finish buttoning up, and add the oil. Good tutorials are THOROUGH tutorials. If you button everything back up and out the oil in and then have to do this and you don't have a special wrench to tighten the lock nut while you hold the clutch adjustment in place you have to drain the oil back out and then remove the case, do this, then button it back up again and pour more oil in. Very frustrating to get all the way to the end of this working on my friend's Harley only to have him fire it up and have the bike start jumping on him with the clutch in, then I had to do research to figure out what could have possibly gone wrong since I don't own or work on Harleys and was just helping a friend out. HUGE oversight bro.
Thank you for this video as well as this comment. I have a 1990 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic that runs until stone dead on a out of the box new battery so I'm assuming that it's a stator issue that needs changed and had I not read your comment about the clutch adjustment thing then that would have 100% undoubtedly been me all pissed off redraining and taking everything back apart again leading resulting in working frustrationingly careless and we all know how that one goes....breaking, stripping, and losing shit....thank you both again
@@ericshehu1173you’re welcome. I am glad it helped. And yes it is likely the stator or the regulator/rectifier. But also check the wires running from the regulator down the the frame. They have been know to break there.
Don't take the whole primary case off if you don't have a wrench that will get on that lock nut, use a deep socket with a set of vice grips on it then your Allen key will fit through the hole in the socket
so my bike wont keep a charge, I put a brand new battery in it and it died in like 3 days. should i replace the stator or does anyone have an idea on what this might be ???
@@KnobleMoto pretty sure I checked that months ago and I was only getting about 9-10v . Also pretty sure I have an open line between phases on the stator.
Holy Sh@t THATS a job and a half man wow. Thank You Jesus I don’t work on Davies. But I bet mechanics make a killing. That job is probably almost 1300 dollars. Insane.
It’s not too bad tech wise, but yeah it is very labor intensive. Which is funny, because HD stuff is generally simple to work on and to replace parts on. Except the stator….
@@KnobleMoto true not hard at all. No clearance measuring etc. Just labor intensive. Few times it’s probably 30-45 min job. I will say though how well kept the gasket was. I’d use it again easily.
So I followed this. Put my clutch all back together. Haven’t added oil yet but a buddy told me to cycle through all the gears. It goes to 1st, N, and 2nd but won’t catch higher than that, it just feels like I’m in 5th and won’t go higher. Will it be okay? I don’t want to add oil and everything then have to drain it. TIA to anyone for help.
It’s probably fine. The transmission really needs to spin for all the gears to engage & disengage properly. Unless you took the trans apart, everything should work as it did before.
Excellent, I’m hoping my new stator is waiting for me to get home and install it in my 93 FLHS. Thanks Brother, I’ll probably save $500 by doing it myself.
What do you do if you can't get the nut loose ? Book says 150 to 165 ft lbs torque, I'm only a 160 lb guy been trying for 2 days . Last resort is impact if that don't work ?
@KnobleMoto trust me I was swearing way more than I should have, finally got it. This is my first real repair on my first scoot, so I am learning as I go, next is going to find a rebuildable a mod. Motor. Thanks for your reply though, nice to know there are people out here helping the newbs.
Is it possible for a stator to shut down due to heat? Have an 03 sporty thats shutting off as soon as is gets warm. Changed out the ignition module, regulator and coil. Also checked the battery connections and battery. Only other component I haven't changed is the stator, but other than it just not charging the battery, dont know if they are known to fail when the bike gets hot. Dont know if you have any wisdom you can throw my way lol. Eithet way happy new year and hope you're still enjoying your Dyna
Harley crank position sensors are known to be problematic when they get hot. Your stator itself will not turn off due to heat, but your regulator/rectifier could. However that would not turn off you bike immediately.
hello. I am from Albania. I have an S & S engine (No. A09872) from 2000. I am looking for a catalog for installation instructions. can you suggest me where to look?
Thanks for the video. My stator took a dump on my fxdwg and it doesnt even have 20k on the odometer. I've done basic maintenance but this task is slightly intimidating.
The cover on my 2011 Sportster 1200 the magnets weren't attached. I don't think that's a good thing. Could explain why it ran rough and wouldn't hold a charge.
I highly recommend some lube on the rubber seal to help it slide through the hole. I got lazy on one a while back and messed it up trying to jam it through
@@KnobleMoto. The one I got it was nicer? As , Some have a coating that can over heat ….when opened the primary ya can smell burn oil. At least the multimeter. Verified that There is nothing electrical wrong w. Bike. …..Harley ordered me an oem equivalent drag specialties. Is as close that you can get to Oem. Harly does not make it anymore. So I’ll be doing that this w. I’ll follow yr video just like the 1st time. Maybe Sunday bill be out riding
@@KnobleMoto I didn't really mean ditch it as much as just turn it down while I'm listening to you, you're putting out some great info there! The music's fine.
Are you referring to the three wires from the stator? If so; it doesn’t matter. They produce a 3 phase AC current. You can arrange them in any way. All other wires should be marked for location.
Replacing the stator in my 2015 FLHTK. On those there's a little lip the rotor (cover over the stator) won't go past, so I had to pull the inner primary cover as well. PITA! Enjoyed the video though - steps are basically the same, and gives a good overview of the process. Some newer models may have a T70 Torx bit holding on the compensator sprocket.
I have a 2001 dyna low rider with 8k miles and my stator went out (tested through manual steps). I havnt torn it open yet, but should I just replace the stator or the whole assembly. Harley dealer says if they do it they will do assembly which cost more so I’m looking for answers on if it’s needed or not.
Often if the stator goes, the regulator/rectifier is not far behind. Not always though. If you can afford it, I would replace them both. After that, you know it will be good for a long time.
@@Dalton44 If the magnet isn't damaged it will be fine to reuse it. Give it a thorough inspection for cracks in the magnets though, and replace it is you find a crack.
Silly question… I just replaced my stator on my 03 softail deuce last year and I’m back again this year because I can’t remember how to do it. How long is a stator usually good for because everybody is telling me it should have lasted way longer than a year. And technically my bikes been sitting for a few months now so it was really like 9 months on the new stator and now my battery won’t stay charged. Ik it’s not the battery because I tested three different ones all brand new, same issue.
it could be your regulator/ recifier too. Your stator should last for multiple years. See how much voltage you have at the battery when the bike is running. it should be between 13.0-14.6 volts.
@@KnobleMoto once fully charged it’s around 12.5 and slowly drops until everything shuts down. I was told by a few different people that would be a stator issue. You think regulator rectifier tho?
@@Billy-jo3bt Check to see if you have voltage going from your stator into the reg/rectifier. It should be 30-70 volts AC. That will check your stator. THE R/R switches the voltage from AC to DC the regulates it down to the 13-14 VDC range. If power is going into your R/R, and not coming out. then your R/R is the problem.
Nope. You can’t get the primary chain off or the compensator sprocket without removing the clutch basket. But if you can get the compensator nut off, you can pull the basket. Just turn the nut to the correct direction.
Ooooooo! That’s a tough one. I think it is 50 link chain (double check me on that). But you could get a piece of the appropriate single row industrial chain, put it on there, then use the wedge to get the nut free.
Bcuz my harley sportster 2017 XL1200C has a faulty stator...( NO AC current output )but scare enough to follow what you did cuz i saw a chain and it must be complicated to put it back later... Thank you very much,sir
I tested my stator & it checked out good . But when the bike is fully warmed up it drops one cylinder & runs on one. With it running I took of the positive terminal & the bike died. Does that sound like a bad stator ? Thanks
You still need a battery to complete the electrical circuit, so that is not the stator. I would look at the plugs, fuel delivery problems, or crank position sensor.
@@philshoop3295 sorta. You can put an indicator light on it and that will tell you if it cycles. But if it’s only going out when the bike is hot, you may not be able to test it that way.
@@bobwhitaker8233 I have never heard of that. The stator hub (magnet) should be a slip fit. I could see you might need a puller if there was a bunch of crud in there or if a magnet broke apart. But it is a slip fit when new. I just looked it up and it’s the same rotor on all the twin cams.
I travel on motorcycles, so reliability is important, and after 50k, I was in there anyways, so why not. Plus electrical components do not last forever. The heat cycles will break down the insulation and your stator will fail without warning. So, in a way it is a wear item.
That's what I was going to say, just because it does not wear like a brake pad, bearing or wheel seal - the mechanical barrier between the coils and the oil will flex with the expansion and contraction of the CU during heat change. Not to mention the wire sealant wearing due to fine metal particles from bearing and chain wear that floats around in the primary oil. I would have to respectfully disagree, I think it is a wear item. Thanks for the video.
@@KnobleMoto I got 171,000 miles on my 2010 FLHTK, just now having problems with the stator output....@ $200 a pop, Im not changing it till its bad......did you swap out chain tensioner, clutch plates as well? I mean while you were in there....
Well it turned into a little bit more of a job stator would have been under 5 hundred but ended up having to have both shaft seals on the transmission as well, of which I knew one was leaking.. So total was under 8...
Are you saying that when you install the new connectors into the plug housing there is no pin out numbers. You can install any wire in any position in the plug...???
Victory stators are mounted to the primary cover, not buried in the engine in the heat. Stoopid design to make Harley money. That's too many places for possible oil leaks.
I believe your distain for Harley has clouded your abilities to notice the parallels in design. But whenever the Harley engineers call me for design advice, I will be sure and send them your way.
@@KnobleMoto It's DISDAIN and the design differences are covered in a 5 video series about the antiquated HD design on UA-cam. I encourage you to find that 5 part series and watch it in its entirety. Educate yourself friend, first. Victory sales slogan rings true, if you ride one, you own one.
@@glenosborne9807 eh. I’ve got some bad news for you. Victory is out of business. Also I rode a few Victory’s. I rode some Indians too. I have riding just about every bike on the road. I bought a Harley. Technically the fourth one that been in my garage.
@@KnobleMoto uh, duh. Yes out of business so I own two of them and both will be on the road long after the Harleys with a whole lot less garage time. Keep drinking the Kool Aid bruh, she ya out there somewhere. Why do so many orange and black trailers exist ? I've been on my Vision cruising towards South Florida from Tennessee and pass trailers loaded with hogs headed to Daytona. They won't even make eye contact. Why are there "chase vehicles" with trailers following bikes to DC for Thunder for Blunders ? Why is there a branded T-shirt shop at every Podunk town in America disguised as a HD dealership? Cause y'all need them.
@@glenosborne9807 I rode my sport bike past many of those trailers too. That doesn’t mean anything. I think you have confused the actions of owners with the design of a motorcycle. It’s funny, no one ever goes on my metric bike videos and attacks them. But it happens periodically on the HD videos, by metric bike owners. It’s as if the problem isn’t in the engineering, but in the egos of the metric owners. I once didn’t think much of Harley’s, but after I rented one and ride it through the Sierra Nevada mountains. I realized I was wrong. Admitting mistakes is a key part of learning to fix a motorcycle, or one’s self.
My only question is : If you went this far to breakdown the primary why would you not take the inner primary off and replace all the shaft seals, You're already there....$50 more and its all new
Mostly because I had just replaced them a year before. Otherwise you would be correct in replacing all of the seals. Plus there is no need to complicate and lengthen the video.
@@KnobleMoto I see your point and respect your opinion. If the seals were replaced a year ago then I agree, no sense in fixing something that wasn't broken or worn. However, if the bike is 14 years old and those have never been replaced....NOW IS THE TIME....Keep up the great work....
could not watch the video with that music playing found it hard to listen to you speak.
Yeah it didn’t come out as well as I hoped with the music. However you can turn closed captioning on for certain parts.
I've got an in on some hearing aids... Lol... Hope you can handle all the noise riding.. lol.. JK... Videos worked for me....
Getting the two little screws in the hold down clamp on my evo will test anyone's patience
😂😂. Why are those so difficult?!
Good work 👍 thanks for showing it .helped a lot.🇺🇲
You’re welcome
#fakenews. The lack of swearing, lost parts, broken bolts, beer cans and general mayhem makes this video seem fake. Every time I work on crap I guarantee at least 2 beers one bloody knuckle and one lost bolt. Maybe time for me to take a knoble moto class
Now thats the additude that will make you excel as a mechanic!
Great video !!! No doubt one of the most no nonsense tutorials I’ve watched. Are you a tech by trade or just a gear head? Either way great job
I am a Millwright by trade. I also teach in person classes in motorcycle maintenance and repair in Cleveland Ohio. Check out my website.
Www.knoblemoto.com
No need to pull the clutch off.
You have to pull the clutch to pull the compensator sprocket. It all has to come off as one.
@@KnobleMoto I respectfully disagree. Although the book says you need to, i did the stator on my 97' Softail and we just pulled my buddies 06 Heritage and left the clutch in place.
@@jeffnorton3958 so you don't have to pull the clutch off 98 road King?
Some you do, some you don’t. Just did my 2001 FXDXT and tried to do it without, didn’t have enough slack in the primary chain to get the compensator sprocket off. The part I received said in the installation instructions that it is possible, when the bike has enough miles on it that the primary chain has enough slack. My 2001 with 30k miles, obviously didn’t have enough. Lord knows I was hoping I won’t have to. Unfortunately I also have a primary chain adjuster guide that is cracked and of course every HD dealer is closed on Sunday around here. Couldn’t get it back on the road today. Would have been a beautiful day to ride.
@@45SSVaquero if I had worn enough slack into the primary chain to remove it without pulling the sprockets, I would replace the chain.
Appreciate this guy going step by step brotha.
You’re welcome. I am glad it helped.
Do you have a video that shows putting the main gears back on correctly? I have never done it and want to do it right.
As in the transmission gears? I do not have a video for that. But “Fix My Hog” does. (I make videos for them too)
Tip: clean the metal particles off the magnet by using "silly putty" or a clay bar. Then clean the magnets with parts cleaner.
That’s an excellent tip.
@@KnobleMoto Always willing to help. Also use silicone grease when putting the plug back together...That plug sits right up front and catches all the water and shit of the road....Cheap insurance.
Very informative. Thought I was listening to John Ratzenberger changing a stator, lol.
LMAO! That is the funniest comment I have gotten. Listening now, i do realize there is a similarity.
Harley should provide new connector bs...popping pins.
Strange way to save a few pennies isn’t it? 😂
Great video... easy to follow. Thanks for posting!!!
Thank you.
THANK YOU! Been assisting a friend on this job. He says it's one of the best Harley procedure videos he's ever seen - enough information and in all the right places, and the video shows clearly the steps. We'd been stuck at the part where you take the old wires out of that squared plug. Anyway big thanks, this was exactly what we needed :)
I had to do some googling to get past that step 😂😂😂. I am glad the video helped. Your welcome.
Don’t know if I’m ready to tackle such a task.
Sure you are. I believe in you
I’m getting up the nerve to do it. I keep watching it over and over again. Have to check the torque amounts when I reassemble it.
@@adamperez7427 yes. Always torque that stuff to spec. Also A service manual is a priceless tool when doing new repairs.
"Then just replace your primary and you're ready to go." Yea, for those who are not familiar with Harley's and watching this, you should know the clutch adjustment is right there and after pulling out your primary and putting it back in, you're going to want to make sure that is adjusted correctly. In some cases all this tinkering around will cause an issue here. You'll want to loosen the clutch on the CABLE first so there's plenty of slack. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch adjustment on the rear primary, and then use the allen to tighten it just until it reaches, then lock the nut in place. Then you can adjust at the cable and finish buttoning up, and add the oil. Good tutorials are THOROUGH tutorials. If you button everything back up and out the oil in and then have to do this and you don't have a special wrench to tighten the lock nut while you hold the clutch adjustment in place you have to drain the oil back out and then remove the case, do this, then button it back up again and pour more oil in. Very frustrating to get all the way to the end of this working on my friend's Harley only to have him fire it up and have the bike start jumping on him with the clutch in, then I had to do research to figure out what could have possibly gone wrong since I don't own or work on Harleys and was just helping a friend out. HUGE oversight bro.
Or, they could watch my video on how to adjust the clutch.
Thank you for this video as well as this comment. I have a 1990 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic that runs until stone dead on a out of the box new battery so I'm assuming that it's a stator issue that needs changed and had I not read your comment about the clutch adjustment thing then that would have 100% undoubtedly been me all pissed off redraining and taking everything back apart again leading resulting in working frustrationingly careless and we all know how that one goes....breaking, stripping, and losing shit....thank you both again
@@ericshehu1173you’re welcome. I am glad it helped. And yes it is likely the stator or the regulator/rectifier. But also check the wires running from the regulator down the the frame. They have been know to break there.
Don't take the whole primary case off if you don't have a wrench that will get on that lock nut, use a deep socket with a set of vice grips on it then your Allen key will fit through the hole in the socket
@@jaredforrest5183 cool. Tag me in your video so I can see how you do it.
so my bike wont keep a charge, I put a brand new battery in it and it died in like 3 days. should i replace the stator or does anyone have an idea on what this might be ???
You need to check the voltage at the battery with the bike running. It should be 12.8 v -14.6 volt dc. Troubleshoot before you throw parts at it.
@@KnobleMoto pretty sure I checked that months ago and I was only getting about 9-10v . Also pretty sure I have an open line between phases on the stator.
@@Averagings it sounds like it is your stator then. Or a broken wire.
@@KnobleMoto copy thanks for the help brother
@@Averagings you’re welcome
Holy Sh@t THATS a job and a half man wow. Thank You Jesus I don’t work on Davies. But I bet mechanics make a killing. That job is probably almost 1300 dollars. Insane.
It’s not too bad tech wise, but yeah it is very labor intensive. Which is funny, because HD stuff is generally simple to work on and to replace parts on. Except the stator….
@@KnobleMoto true not hard at all. No clearance measuring etc. Just labor intensive. Few times it’s probably 30-45 min job. I will say though how well kept the gasket was. I’d use it again easily.
Awesome video bud. Helped a lot.
I put an open primary on 2004 twin cam a motor it's a good thing I did because when I took the stator out it had a broken magnet.
Good,thanks👍
You’re welcome
Great work
New subscriber
Cheers
Thank you very much.
"Take something round and soft to push on the back of the grommet" - like a fucking screwdriver ! 😂
Flat head, Phillips, soft….
1.5” socket for my stock evo compensator.
Cool. Thanks for the info!
Do i have to warm the bike up first so the fluid drain better?
Not for your primary. There is no oil pump, so there is no need to circulate the oil first.
@@KnobleMoto thank bro
So I followed this. Put my clutch all back together. Haven’t added oil yet but a buddy told me to cycle through all the gears. It goes to 1st, N, and 2nd but won’t catch higher than that, it just feels like I’m in 5th and won’t go higher. Will it be okay? I don’t want to add oil and everything then have to drain it.
TIA to anyone for help.
It’s a 2014 Iron 883
It’s probably fine. The transmission really needs to spin for all the gears to engage & disengage properly. Unless you took the trans apart, everything should work as it did before.
What sucks is i have to Replace only cause the oil is leaking out of the seal, nothing else wrong with it other than oil leak. Nice video thank you
You’re welcome
Excellent, I’m hoping my new stator is waiting for me to get home and install it in my 93 FLHS. Thanks Brother, I’ll probably save $500 by doing it myself.
Awesome. I am glad it helped
What do you do if you can't get the nut loose ? Book says 150 to 165 ft lbs torque, I'm only a 160 lb guy been trying for 2 days . Last resort is impact if that don't work ?
The “ugga dugga” action of the impact seems to be the key to getting it free. But heat the nut, then impact it off. Swearing helps too.
@KnobleMoto trust me I was swearing way more than I should have, finally got it. This is my first real repair on my first scoot, so I am learning as I go, next is going to find a rebuildable a mod. Motor. Thanks for your reply though, nice to know there are people out here helping the newbs.
Is it possible for a stator to shut down due to heat? Have an 03 sporty thats shutting off as soon as is gets warm. Changed out the ignition module, regulator and coil. Also checked the battery connections and battery. Only other component I haven't changed is the stator, but other than it just not charging the battery, dont know if they are known to fail when the bike gets hot.
Dont know if you have any wisdom you can throw my way lol. Eithet way happy new year and hope you're still enjoying your Dyna
Harley crank position sensors are known to be problematic when they get hot.
Your stator itself will not turn off due to heat, but your regulator/rectifier could. However that would not turn off you bike immediately.
Thanks for the great video. I thought the back grooves were great. .02
you are welcome!
hello. I am from Albania. I have an S & S engine (No. A09872) from 2000. I am looking for a catalog for installation instructions. can you suggest me where to look?
I would contact S&S Cycle. They have great customer service
Thanks for the video. My stator took a dump on my fxdwg and it doesnt even have 20k on the odometer. I've done basic maintenance but this task is slightly intimidating.
You’re welcome. Once you get in there, it’s not as bad as it seems.
@@KnobleMoto good to know!
The cover on my 2011 Sportster 1200 the magnets weren't attached. I don't think that's a good thing. Could explain why it ran rough and wouldn't hold a charge.
That would definitely explain some issues
Someone had a friggin radio playing in the background..No it was a record player ..stuck !! Dang it,Dude..
I was trying to make it fancy. But I don’t see Hollywood calling me anytime soon.
Would this be a much different job on a shovel? No videos on shovelhead Stator replacement on the whole UA-camS
Yes, the same process. The stator is in the same location and same general primary case design.
I highly recommend some lube on the rubber seal to help it slide through the hole. I got lazy on one a while back and messed it up trying to jam it through
Good call for any press fit gasket. 👏👏👏
would be a lot better if you left the background so called music OFF...
Do you have original music I can use? No? Welp…..
Spacer and seal came off in center of stator. Does the flat side or the rubber side of the seal go toward the case?
I would have to look at the service manual on that. It has been a few months since I shot this video.
Clutch replacement for a 1987 xlh Harley Davidsons sports😮ter
I will look into making that video
Thanks so much. Although my stator died 30” miles later. Something about the citation on it made burn out
Your welcome. Sorry to hear that the stator took a dive too.
@@KnobleMoto. The one I got it was nicer? As , Some have a coating that can over heat ….when opened the primary ya can smell burn oil. At least the multimeter. Verified that There is nothing electrical wrong w. Bike. …..Harley ordered me an oem equivalent drag specialties. Is as close that you can get to Oem. Harly does not make it anymore. So I’ll be doing that this w. I’ll follow yr video just like the 1st time. Maybe Sunday bill be out riding
Is this generally universal on Harleys? I have a 2012 FLS in need of a new stator
Overall, yes. It is the same basic procedure for all modern Harleys.
On my 2000 Softail heritage classic you need a 1 1/2 socket.
That’s good info. Thanks for sharing.
Pull your tensioner off and you do not need to remove the clutch assembly.
Someone needs to post a video, because mine doe not clear, on my Dyna
Ditch the music!
Any requests?
@@KnobleMoto I didn't really mean ditch it as much as just turn it down while I'm listening to you, you're putting out some great info there! The music's fine.
@@bobbyjones55 oh. Right now. I am still trying to improve at the editing of things like that.
@@KnobleMoto 10-4
Am I the only one that doesn't touch the clutch pack when replacing a stator/rotor?
You don’t have to take the clutch pack apart. But while you’re in there, why not.
@@KnobleMoto I just never thought of it. I go in to get the job done without looking for more problems 🤣
@@ryker4124 that is not a bad plan. It probably is a lot cheaper too lol
I didn't touch mine I didn't have snap ring pliers then I found this video after I put mu stator in
@@chadneel2137 which bike was this on
How do you know what cable goes where or it doesn't matter?
Are you referring to the three wires from the stator? If so; it doesn’t matter. They produce a 3 phase AC current. You can arrange them in any way. All other wires should be marked for location.
Can i get the size for the socket please did not here the size good 👍😁
1.5 & 1 3/16th respectively
Replacing the stator in my 2015 FLHTK. On those there's a little lip the rotor (cover over the stator) won't go past, so I had to pull the inner primary cover as well. PITA! Enjoyed the video though - steps are basically the same, and gives a good overview of the process. Some newer models may have a T70 Torx bit holding on the compensator sprocket.
Thanks for those updates and tips. It’s all good info.
I have a 2001 dyna low rider with 8k miles and my stator went out (tested through manual steps). I havnt torn it open yet, but should I just replace the stator or the whole assembly. Harley dealer says if they do it they will do assembly which cost more so I’m looking for answers on if it’s needed or not.
Often if the stator goes, the regulator/rectifier is not far behind. Not always though. If you can afford it, I would replace them both. After that, you know it will be good for a long time.
@@KnobleMoto what about the magnet Replace that too?
@@Dalton44 If the magnet isn't damaged it will be fine to reuse it. Give it a thorough inspection for cracks in the magnets though, and replace it is you find a crack.
Silly question… I just replaced my stator on my 03 softail deuce last year and I’m back again this year because I can’t remember how to do it. How long is a stator usually good for because everybody is telling me it should have lasted way longer than a year. And technically my bikes been sitting for a few months now so it was really like 9 months on the new stator and now my battery won’t stay charged. Ik it’s not the battery because I tested three different ones all brand new, same issue.
it could be your regulator/ recifier too. Your stator should last for multiple years. See how much voltage you have at the battery when the bike is running. it should be between 13.0-14.6 volts.
@@KnobleMoto once fully charged it’s around 12.5 and slowly drops until everything shuts down. I was told by a few different people that would be a stator issue. You think regulator rectifier tho?
@@Billy-jo3bt Check to see if you have voltage going from your stator into the reg/rectifier. It should be 30-70 volts AC. That will check your stator. THE R/R switches the voltage from AC to DC the regulates it down to the 13-14 VDC range. If power is going into your R/R, and not coming out. then your R/R is the problem.
Can this be done without removing the clutch side?
Nope. You can’t get the primary chain off or the compensator sprocket without removing the clutch basket. But if you can get the compensator nut off, you can pull the basket. Just turn the nut to the correct direction.
What are the torque specs for crank and tranny nuts?
150 crank & 80 clutch for the 05. Check you service manual for your year.
LOL "I just cut the wire." Good luck to ya.
lol. Thanks.
Hello i chipped a small piece of magnet on cover that goes over stator can I still use it
Maybe. If it’s just the corner it will be fine. If it’s the face that the stator spins past, you are going to want to replace it.
@@KnobleMoto Thank you
hmm theres some metal shavings in there 😂😂😂😂
There probably are. That is why it is important to change your primary oil on a regular basis. Thanks for the comment.
Is there a shim or washer between the rotor and the stator?
In the twin cams, yes. It’s on the exploded diagram online.
@KnobleMoto do you have a link to this diagram?
@@joemurphy6186 try lowbrow www.lowbrowcustoms.com/blogs/events-features/harley-davidson-motorcycle-manuals-trouble-shooting-guides-parts-books-free-download
Now what if your chain snaps like mine did. How would I get the nut loose?
Ooooooo! That’s a tough one. I think it is 50 link chain (double check me on that). But you could get a piece of the appropriate single row industrial chain, put it on there, then use the wedge to get the nut free.
How did you break a primary chain?
chains dont snap
Thank you for the scoop on stator
You are welcome. I am glad it helped
good video my amigo muchas gracias siñor gringo thanks so much
de nada
Where did the metal filings come from
Clutch material & primary chain and sprocket wear. Nothing alarming.
WORTHLESS HARLEY PROBLEM. I remember when it was so easy to change harley generators. the generater was right in front of the motor.
This is true, but stators charge faster and put out more power, even at idle. Also they last longer than generators did.
Sr do you happen to have a link for the primary locking tool ?
I do not have a link. Sorry. It was on Amazon for about $8. I think i just bought the highest rated cheap one.
@@KnobleMoto thanks believe it or not I bought the same one but so you know a (Felling wedge) works great as well I got impatient waiting for amazon 😂
A piece of wood works,that's what I used free.
Is there any timing chain marking that we should mind about???
Not on the primary chain. Only inside the cam chest on a Harley.
Bcuz my harley sportster 2017 XL1200C has a faulty stator...( NO AC current output )but scare enough to follow what you did cuz i saw a chain and it must be complicated to put it back later...
Thank you very much,sir
@@benweinschezklause5041 once you get in there, it is not as complicated as it looks.
Thank you once again sir..God Bless you
I tested my stator & it checked out good . But when the bike is fully warmed up it drops one cylinder & runs on one. With it running I took of the positive terminal & the bike died. Does that sound like a bad stator ? Thanks
You still need a battery to complete the electrical circuit, so that is not the stator. I would look at the plugs, fuel delivery problems, or crank position sensor.
is there a test for the crank position sensor?
@@philshoop3295 sorta. You can put an indicator light on it and that will tell you if it cycles. But if it’s only going out when the bike is hot, you may not be able to test it that way.
@@philshoop3295 is this carburetor or fuel injection.
fuel injection, sorry I took so long to answer
Do you have a video of a 2008 heritage softail stator hub removal
I don’t. But it should be the same procedure.
It's not the same.in the book it has a puller to remove the hub
@@bobwhitaker8233 interesting. I am
Going to look into this.
Have you heard about grinding the inner primary down to get the stator hub out
@@bobwhitaker8233 I have never heard of that. The stator hub (magnet) should be a slip fit. I could see you might need a puller if there was a bunch of crud in there or if a magnet broke apart. But it is a slip fit when new.
I just looked it up and it’s the same rotor on all the twin cams.
Seems foolish,why replace a perfectly good stator. It's not a wear item
I travel on motorcycles, so reliability is important, and after 50k, I was in there anyways, so why not.
Plus electrical components do not last forever. The heat cycles will break down the insulation and your stator will fail without warning. So, in a way it is a wear item.
That's what I was going to say, just because it does not wear like a brake pad, bearing or wheel seal - the mechanical barrier between the coils and the oil will flex with the expansion and contraction of the CU during heat change. Not to mention the wire sealant wearing due to fine metal particles from bearing and chain wear that floats around in the primary oil. I would have to respectfully disagree, I think it is a wear item. Thanks for the video.
@@vectorelectric8489 thanks!!!
@@vectorelectric8489 thanks!!!
@@KnobleMoto I got 171,000 miles on my 2010 FLHTK, just now having problems with the stator output....@ $200 a pop, Im not changing it till its bad......did you swap out chain tensioner, clutch plates as well? I mean while you were in there....
Very nicely done.
Thank you.
Can you make a video for trap door gasket replacement on 03 Softail 5speed trans ??
If I come across one of those transmissions, I will do it.
thanks!
You’re welcome
Whats the part number on that spacer in front of the rotor?
I have no idea. You are going to have to google that one.
Good watch... No doubt that I can do it, but think I'll pay the arm to get it done right
It’s totally doable yourself.
Oh... I know but there's also a shaft seal that needs to be replaced as well.. Plus I'm missing a few tool
@@raymondwalls3154 if you buy a gasket kit, all the seals should be in there.
How much did you pay if you don’t mind me asking??
Well it turned into a little bit more of a job stator would have been under 5 hundred but ended up having to have both shaft seals on the transmission as well, of which I knew one was leaking.. So total was under 8...
What is you estimated hours to do it from start right t the end.
8 if you take your time.
Clutch doesn't need to come off whatsoever, loosen and remove Cain tension wa la
If you can do that, you might need to check your chain tension for wear.
@@KnobleMotoI took tensioner out completely
What's you charge for this job
I don’t fix people’s motorcycles. But it’s about a 10 hour job, so $100 per our. $1000 plus parts.
Do I have to take off the battery to fix the stator?
Off, no. But I would unhook one of the terminals since you will be doing electrical work. Or don’t. Live life on the edge.
how you tink,bad bataryy breaking stator?
If you are asking how do you know the stator is bad: you have to check the output voltage while it is running.
Are you saying that when you install the new connectors into the plug housing there is no pin out numbers. You can install any wire in any position in the plug...???
for the 3 phase wires coming off the stator; yes. This is one of the few times you will ever be able to do this with vehicle electrical systems.
I love the music!
😂😂😂
Hmmmm, Victory stators are on the cover that he took off first.
Yep. It's that way on lots of bikes. Limits your customization options though.
They also out of business
Just what I was looking for. Thanks dude!
Glad I could help!
Excellent video. Well done being patient and getting all those angles!
Thank you
Victory stators are mounted to the primary cover, not buried in the engine in the heat. Stoopid design to make Harley money. That's too many places for possible oil leaks.
I believe your distain for Harley has clouded your abilities to notice the parallels in design. But whenever the Harley engineers call me for design advice, I will be sure and send them your way.
@@KnobleMoto It's DISDAIN and the design differences are covered in a 5 video series about the antiquated HD design on UA-cam. I encourage you to find that 5 part series and watch it in its entirety. Educate yourself friend, first. Victory sales slogan rings true, if you ride one, you own one.
@@glenosborne9807 eh. I’ve got some bad news for you. Victory is out of business.
Also I rode a few Victory’s. I rode some Indians too. I have riding just about every bike on the road. I bought a Harley. Technically the fourth one that been in my garage.
@@KnobleMoto uh, duh. Yes out of business so I own two of them and both will be on the road long after the Harleys with a whole lot less garage time. Keep drinking the Kool Aid bruh, she ya out there somewhere. Why do so many orange and black trailers exist ? I've been on my Vision cruising towards South Florida from Tennessee and pass trailers loaded with hogs headed to Daytona. They won't even make eye contact. Why are there "chase vehicles" with trailers following bikes to DC for Thunder for Blunders ? Why is there a branded T-shirt shop at every Podunk town in America disguised as a HD dealership? Cause y'all need them.
@@glenosborne9807 I rode my sport bike past many of those trailers too. That doesn’t mean anything. I think you have confused the actions of owners with the design of a motorcycle. It’s funny, no one ever goes on my metric bike videos and attacks them. But it happens periodically on the HD videos, by metric bike owners. It’s as if the problem isn’t in the engineering, but in the egos of the metric owners. I once didn’t think much of Harley’s, but after I rented one and ride it through the Sierra Nevada mountains. I realized I was wrong. Admitting mistakes is a key part of learning to fix a motorcycle, or one’s self.
My only question is : If you went this far to breakdown the primary why would you not take the inner primary off and replace all the shaft seals, You're already there....$50 more and its all new
Mostly because I had just replaced them a year before. Otherwise you would be correct in replacing all of the seals. Plus there is no need to complicate and lengthen the video.
@@KnobleMoto I see your point and respect your opinion. If the seals were replaced a year ago then I agree, no sense in fixing something that wasn't broken or worn. However, if the bike is 14 years old and those have never been replaced....NOW IS THE TIME....Keep up the great work....
@@raymondpontremoli4500 thank you
terrible video
Awe thank you. Hugs.
Could you reupload this without that annoying fucking background music please?
Nope. I don’t have the original footage. Plus this is one of my most popular videos, so I am not touching it. Sorry.