Відео

It’s probably your throw out adjustment inside the clutch.

I have switch to Amsoil recently. They have the “three hole oil change kit”. The prices are pretty reasonable and you know you are getting the right oil for each hole. Clovis is my go to for ordering. clovislubricants.shopamsoil.com/

@ I just changed oil on my bike today thanks for de videos next time I will switch to Amsoil

@@Maycol-t9e awesome.

Basically yes. They are designed to handle a small amount of vibration because they are on motorcycles, but vibration could shorten the life of a battery. Heat is also never good for a battery.

1 quart.

@@KnobleMoto thanks. For the videos and your help HD charge 550 bucks to change the oil

@ you’re welcome. This is totally maintenance that you can do yourself.

For course threads the general rule is the tap drill should be 75-80% of the thread diameter. Or, on tap drill charts they will hopefully list it.

That’s Solid advice.

👍😎😂

It’s not too bad. I believe in you.

That’s nothing compared to the stone chips and dead bugs all over the front end from riding it.

How so?

The electricity will still transfer through a metal to metal contact. If you use general grease, the grease itself will conduct the electricity, and generally in the wrong direction.

😎😎😎😎

And it was the best subscribing! 😂❤️. (Thank you)

Those ARE some cool bikes. Rare too.

Thanks. I am excited to start on it.

😂😂😂. Thank you.

You’re welcome.

And thank you.

3 is fine, and better. I always shoot for the high end of the “full” mark.

You're welcome, thanks for watching.

I have had zero problems with the stock case vent system. That’s even with spending notable periods of time at high rpm’s. I’m suspicious that some people’s problems may be related to aftermarket air intakes that are not allowing the case breather to work properly.

Yes you can.

😂😂. They are a rare find anymore.

You’re welcome and greetings from Cleveland Ohio!

It's the same design as on many of the metric motorcycles, which also fail with age and use. The switches are probably made by the same people. Did you just come here to try and bad mouth a brand that you don't like?

It’s not the switch itself. It’s the arrangement and zero tolerance for slop. Had 15 metric bikes throughout my life (some old). NEVER one failure. Just wanted to ride today and couldn’t. It’s a safety issue. I could easily design it to last the life of the bike with exception of actual switch failure. No excuse for poor design.

@@KnobleMotoIt’s not the switch that fails it’s the arrangement. Had so many jpn bikes some old that never failed. Missed a great ride day due to this silly bad design. Regardless all the UA-cams are temporary fixes and will happen again. I easily came up with a permanent fix that will never fail.

If the battery is going dead that fast, something is drawing it down electrically, or you have a bad battery.

Is the regulator/rectifier isn’t hooked up, the stator will basically do nothing. Once it’s hooked up, it will rectify the ac voltage to DC and regulate the voltage down to 12-14.6 volts dc.

You’re welcome.

Solid plan. There is generally a few ounces still in the case, so nothing to worry about.

Replace it will an Allen :)

I have no idea.

On the Iron, stock is 11”, and I put 11.5” on. 12s will work if the taller seat height isn’t a problem.

You’re welcome. I am glad it helped.

Thank you.

You’re welcome

😂😂😂. It was early in the video editing learning curve.

@ hey man, regardless I watched the whole thing and it was very informative l, I feel confident I can install the 95” big bore I just bought for my 03 low rider

@ I’m glad to hear it. Just take your time and label everything.

It was just a few ounces. 🤷‍♂️

K&N 170b

@KnobleMoto Thank you for sharing such valuable knowledge and experience, greetings from Indonesia ❤️🇮🇩

@ you’re welcome. Greeting from Cleveland Ohio, USA.

Thanks! That’s a great price!!!

Thank you & Happy New Year to you too

You’re welcome. I’m glad it helped.

@@KnobleMoto Took me about 4 hours, but I was doing this on the ground using my motorcycle jack and a car jack. I did the rear one first, and I managed to get both installed own Saturday, and went on a 218 mile ride Sunday. I think my head may be playing with me, but the bike felt tighter. The old mounts: rear "looked" ok but I could see the cracks in the rubber, like age... front was cracked and torn rubber. 1000% chance the mounts were original. Again, thanks for preventing me from removing a bunch of parts or give up altogether.

@ you’re welcome. It probably was more nimble. The swingarm is attached to the transmission, which is held in place by the rubber mounts. So if the mounts are flexing, it will affect the bikes handling.

👍👍👍👍. That was pretty much the point. Thank you for getting it.

@@KnobleMoto Point well taken.

Thanks

I tied a single wire to the old one before I pulled it out. If you already pulled the old one out, try sticking a zip tie through there to use as a pull wire.

You’re welcome. I am glad to hear that it helped.

The Shinkos seem to be a wee bit better in the rain vs the Night Dragons. Then seem to be having the same mileage range. I would go with the Shinko.

@KnobleMoto Thanks for your reply. I'm thinking of shinkos .. but when I went to tyre shop, the guy said they aren't that great and suggested Avon cobra chromes. Avon's are great tyres, I have them on my Sportster. But if shinkos are similar in wet grip as night dragons I will go with shinkos white walls.