I dropped small stainless nut just like that. But when I dropped it went into ocean, because I was working on friends 38ft Bayliner, over water. To make me feel even worse, we had to drive back to town for a replacement! Man!
I thought I had dead battery at Cabela's parking lot. Customers say, we'll push you to get started. An engine started with little effect. But my battery was fried when I got home, finding cause of problem not dead battery but rectifier failed to convert 110V into 12V. My battery was fried because it was injected with 110V all way home, instead of usual 12V. Now I'm learning about rectifiers, buying new battery as well as new rectifier. My thoughts, you should find out what's really wrong before just push starting bike an riding it home?
No. You really can't test the regulator. If your stator is putting out proper voltage but the battery isn't getting proper voltage, then you can figure it's the regulator.
The AC voltage seemed a bit high. I would of reved the motor a bit to see how high it went at like 3k rpm. If it was any higher than 46v ac I would think that is causing premature failure in the R/R rectifier/regulator and overcharging battery causing premature failure of the battery as well. Well done I soldier everything!😂
While that reading is more than the book recommends, it doesn't mean it's bad. Turn your meter to AC volts and start the engine to see what the alternator is putting out. You should see an output of about 20 volts per 1000 rpm.
The ac stator test didn’t make sense because the regulator wasn’t even hooked up so when that had a bad reading what made you say the regulator wasn’t bad not the stator ?
You have to disconnect the regulator to test the alternator. The test showed that the alternator (stator and rotor) was putting out more volts than the book said was normal, but the alternator was working. The alternator will put out more volts the faster you spin it. The regulator is there to convert the A/C voltage into D/C voltage and regulate it down to about 14 volts D/C. In this case the regulator wasn't limiting the output, so I replaced it. The final test proved that was the proper fix.
@ the way you tested it made no sense tho. Testing the stator while it’s disconnected from the regulator and the stator testing good can’t tell you right away it’s the regulator
@@riffraffchoppers If a bike has a charging problem you test the alternator as I showed. If the alternator is putting out enough voltage you replace the regulator. There is no way to test the regulator. In this case the alternator was putting out slightly more voltage than the book stated for stock reading but considering the age of the bike, someone might have put in a high output alternator as some point.
@ that was the confusing part cause you said it tested fine when it was slightly over so you said it must be the regulator and my point was when those two aren’t connected and you’re testing the stator you can’t automatically say it’s the regulator cause of the stator test
I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. The bike will run off just the battery for some time. You need a working voltage regulator to convert the stator output from AC to DC voltage. The wire from the regulator to the battery goes to a breaker, not a fuse. Breaker should have battery voltage on both sides even without the bike running.
Best video of any I've watched.
I dropped small stainless nut just like that. But when I dropped it went into ocean, because I was working on friends 38ft Bayliner, over water. To make me feel even worse, we had to drive back to town for a replacement! Man!
Nicely done and thanks for posting...I learn something new every time!
I thought I had dead battery at Cabela's parking lot. Customers say, we'll push you to get started. An engine started with little effect. But my battery was fried when I got home, finding cause of problem not dead battery but rectifier failed to convert 110V into 12V. My battery was fried because it was injected with 110V all way home, instead of usual 12V. Now I'm learning about rectifiers, buying new battery as well as new rectifier. My thoughts, you should find out what's really wrong before just push starting bike an riding it home?
Is there an easy test for the regulator itself? And thank you for your very clear video.
No. You really can't test the regulator. If your stator is putting out proper voltage but the battery isn't getting proper voltage, then you can figure it's the regulator.
@@WitchcraftCycleWorks Thank you sir!
The AC voltage seemed a bit high. I would of reved the motor a bit to see how high it went at like 3k rpm. If it was any higher than 46v ac I would think that is causing premature failure in the R/R rectifier/regulator and overcharging battery causing premature failure of the battery as well. Well done I soldier everything!😂
I'm getting 00.7 to 00.8 resistance when testing the stator on my 1992 Fatboy is that a bad stator?
While that reading is more than the book recommends, it doesn't mean it's bad. Turn your meter to AC volts and start the engine to see what the alternator is putting out. You should see an output of about 20 volts per 1000 rpm.
@WitchcraftCycleWorks thank you I'll be doing that today.
The ac stator test didn’t make sense because the regulator wasn’t even hooked up so when that had a bad reading what made you say the regulator wasn’t bad not the stator ?
You have to disconnect the regulator to test the alternator. The test showed that the alternator (stator and rotor) was putting out more volts than the book said was normal, but the alternator was working. The alternator will put out more volts the faster you spin it. The regulator is there to convert the A/C voltage into D/C voltage and regulate it down to about 14 volts D/C. In this case the regulator wasn't limiting the output, so I replaced it. The final test proved that was the proper fix.
@ the way you tested it made no sense tho. Testing the stator while it’s disconnected from the regulator and the stator testing good can’t tell you right away it’s the regulator
@@riffraffchoppers If a bike has a charging problem you test the alternator as I showed. If the alternator is putting out enough voltage you replace the regulator. There is no way to test the regulator. In this case the alternator was putting out slightly more voltage than the book stated for stock reading but considering the age of the bike, someone might have put in a high output alternator as some point.
@ that was the confusing part cause you said it tested fine when it was slightly over so you said it must be the regulator and my point was when those two aren’t connected and you’re testing the stator you can’t automatically say it’s the regulator cause of the stator test
That is the exact problem I'm having, and I didn't catch it's quick enough and boiled my battery
Bike runs without voltage regulator, stator good, this bike doesn't have power to fuse / terminal.
I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. The bike will run off just the battery for some time. You need a working voltage regulator to convert the stator output from AC to DC voltage. The wire from the regulator to the battery goes to a breaker, not a fuse. Breaker should have battery voltage on both sides even without the bike running.