The pins you call split pins or cotter pins are actually called R clips as if you look at the from the side they look like an R. The "weird clip" that look like a V is there to keep the pads off the disc when the brakes are not applied, this reduces noise and pad chatter. You are correct the dust cover does not need to be lubed, if you do need some lube to help it into place silicone spray works great on rubber. Any motor factor will stock brake grease, I like Apec brake grease and I would have smeared the pins and R clips in grease to stop them seizing whilst also greasing the contact surfaces on the sides of the pads and on the calipers making sure you do not contaminate the brake friction material with grease. These surfaces need to be very clean, obviously the pads do not need cleaning as they are brand new but the calipers would have benefited from a going over the a wire wheel on a drill or cut off tool to remove scale and rust where the pads contact the caliper. You need these areas to be clean and greased or as just like you found one the pads can seized in the caliper. The pads need to slide smoothly inside the caliper with little effort. The piston was not seized as if it was you would not has been able to get it out like you did with a screw driver Don't use copper grease or white grease, brake grease is so cheap its not worth using something else that wont do the job as well, the grease needs to be of a very high melting point as the pads and caliper can get very very hot. Most greases will either flash (burn) or just turn into liquid and run off with the possibility that the run off goes onto the disc and again contaminating the friction material. Also no need to put grease on the back of the brake pad, those pads have a shim pre-installed with material on them to stop them seizing to the piston and to stop chatter so adding grease will just cause problems as it will allow all the brake dust to stick and build up in that area. Copper grease wont damage the dust cover. Fitting new pads onto old disc whilst not dangerous can lead to break squeal and increased pad wear. As the pads bed into the shape of the old disc this can cause squealing. As I mentioned last time if you are going to work on the brakes and suspension you need to get yourself some semi permanent thread locker, best to be safe than sorry as these system are critical to your safety and of other road users. The thread locker is a belt and braces approach so if the bolt was to come loose it would not come completely free and fall off. Remember over tightening a fixing it just as bad as under tightening it, when you got to torque the bolts up slacken them off fully first so when you do check them with your torque wrench you are actually torquing to bolt up to the required torque specification. If the bolts are over tightened the torque wrench it just telling you that bolt is as tight as what it is set to it wont tell you if the bolt is over tightened. All the best, Adam
Pinned again Adam to help others out as well. I just ordered up some Sealey SCS271S Stud Lock High Strength 50ml from Amazon. It was cheaper than the Loctite version and the reviews seems overall very positive. I will apply it onto the bolts when I torque them up and I will of course loosen them first as I may have gone over. Shame you are not more local to me as I would love you to do the welding of the lower suspension cup, I appreciate this is awful job so you might have declined anyway 😂 I have also purchased 75ml of the Apec brake grease from eBay, I will still be able to apply this carefully to the areas you mentioned albeit where the pads meet the calipers probably won't seep in. As always thanks again for all the help 😎👌
the only thing i'd add to Adams advice is to check the edges of new pads for excess paint.......seen many many brand new pads over the years with thick paint runs on the edges that make them a tight fit......quick run over with some emery sorts it out in seconds
@@Mymatevince No problem Vince I forgot to say great job on changing the seals on the calipers, glad they did not cause you any grief as I am sure you will agree you have had enough of that already with this car. Just had a look at the Sealey SCS271S and I would not use that. it is Stud lock so is classed as a permanent thread locker so you would use it on bolts or studs you are not going to need to undo again. If you use stud locker and you need to undo any of those fixings again you are going to have a very hard time and in some cases are not going to be able to undo the fixing. What you want is "semi" permanent thread locker or nut locker as this will stop fixings from coming loose but also allow you to undo them in the future. I use Loctite 243 but if you want to use Sealey SCS243S nut locker will do the trick, semi permanent thread locker is usually blue in colour, permanent or stud locker is green or red in colour. Would love to come and help you in anyway I could, I think I did mention I am in Nottingham which is a fair old distance from you if I remember where you are correctly. To weld that suspension arm you are going to need some Argon welding gas and a welder that can deliver some serious amps. Look at welding like soldering, first everything has to be clean as you are trying to attach to metallic pieces together by melting them. Anything sitting in between them is going to cause problems just like soldering on top of corrosion is a recipe for disaster so preparation is key for a good solid weld, the cleaner the better that includes degreasing with thinners or brake cleaner. That also goes for oxygen getting in the way which is why we need welding gas much in the same way you need flux to solder. Then you need a welder that can provide enough power to heat/melt the suspension arm, your repair piece and the welding wire all into one homogeneous molten puddle. Think of this like soldering a connection on a ground plane sinking away all your heat and you are also using to small of a tip resulting in a cold solder joint. All the best Adam
@@APSuk2 Thanks Adam, I have just ordered up the Loctite 243 50ml from eBay. The other Sealey stuff will come in handy for other things no doubt. Nice comparison between the soldering and the welding. Purely because the lower suspension mount is so critical I am going to leave it up to a professional to do that (if I can find one who is happy to tackle it). If I did it, I would forever be looking under the car wondering if it is about to go 😂👍👍
@@Mymatevince No worries Vince, any questions please feel free to ask me and I will do my best to help you. I would give you my email and phone number but I can't obviously do that here. Fair enough about the suspension repair and I totally understand. Nothing wrong with understanding your limits. I hope you can find someone down there who will do a good job for you, many garages do not carry out welding & if they do it is not something they do on a regular basis which means skills are lacking. On everyday cars the whole arm would just be changed.
Currently watching you rebuild the caliper, good work one thing I wish you'd be doing is sending them off to be blasted and then paint them silver or black before rebuilding them, just so they look nicer haha. Keep up the work bud.
I do believe from watching South Maine Autos that you put some high temperature grease on the ends of the pistons and in the groves where the brake callipers sit to prevent them seizing up. But I'm no mechanic, just what I saw, I only say this because I'm guilty of not doing it, but with a set of brake pads for the Nissan Pulsar they included a foil wrapped bit of grease and the subsequent explanation of what it was for. Again a great fix it video, always good to watch you working on the Rolls Vince.
I didn't see this mentioned, and i have no idea if the car piston seals are like the bike (motorcycle) piston seals i've used, but those were not actually square (sectional view) , they have an "edge" a bit taller than the others - that "edge" goes on the inside (away from the pads). They might not have one, or even so, they might work fine, but if you get any brake fluid seeping around the pistons, that's likely the culprit. I love the series, and I really wish it would bring you the revenue you deserve!
GGGgggr8 job Vince. Brakes are daunting to most home mechanics, but they are simpler than you think, I don't know why you didn't have any, but you usually get a small pack of brake grease with rebuild kits, you just place a small amount anywhere the pads slide against i.e. the pins and where the pads rub against the caliper housing etc. But through time the grease does get contaminated by brake dust etc causing more sticking and wear, so some mechanics love the grease, others say leave them dry and let them shine up naturally with the movement of the pads. You have more than likely done them by now, but with rear brake pistons you may need to unscrew them, this depends on the hand brake adjustment mechanism, make sure you clean and wire brush the screw threads then a bit of brake grease before refitting, hopefully your RR doesn't have screw in pistons. All in all you did a fine job sir, luckily the R.R. is too old for these new computerised brake wind back/bleed mechanisms that are notorious for jamming. A whole 5 👍👍👍👍👍for this vid.
Buen trabajo La próxima vez, lava con agua y limpia con Limpiador de Frenos antes de armar. Usa lubricante Sintético Glicerina para no dañar las gomas (Wynns Senfineco Sonax) Usa lubricante para temperatura partes móviles. Puede ser de cobre. ... y verifica Torques y purgas From Chile
Great vid as always vince. Love to see how the car is coming along .I think while you had the calipers stripped apart . It might of benefited you to sand blast and powder coat the caliper. Would greatly help with corrosion. Also adding a little caliper grease on the pins the brake pad slides on is good practice.
Thanks Daniel, really glad you are enjoying the series. I'm hoping it will be roadworthy sometime in 2023, massive thanks for the top level support as well 👍👍👍
I never serviced my car brakes but if they are anything like bicycle disc brakes (which I did service multiple times), you want to avoid having brake fluid outside of the closed system. On top of attracting dirt and dust (as you pointed out in the video) it will contaminate the pads and reduce braking performance if it gets to them. Also, I am quite impressed with your work on this car so far. A real pleasure to watch… Looking forward to part 33.
I would love to have seen you do a deep clean on those calipers wire brush and cleaning fluid. Making certain that there is no dirt any were near your new parts. Looks better as well. your rubber rings just put oil on the caliper. But as always a blood good watch. Thanks M8. Yours Peter T Wales UK.
Great video. Watch everything you do. A simple word of advice from a complete novice though be to watch out for touching the braking surface of the pads with your hands as any oils will absorb into the pads and damage the pads. Can't wait for the next video
Great!!! Glad that task turned out to be a fun task with less things to stress you out! It will be interesting to see where the leak is coming from on the other side, and see if the side you just did leaks - I hope not lol!!!
Get your self a couple of cans of brake cleaner It’s excellent at not only cleaning brakes but anything oily. Loving the vids vince A pleasure to watch as always
36:48 when storing your torque wrench you are supposed to keep the tension off the spring inside by untwisting it otherwise it can go out of calibration after 20 years...
Nice job, with the next one just grind the edge of the brake disc with the angle grinder. You can still do that with this one. Then you can mount them much more easily and the pads will wear out more regularly. To prevent squeaking you can also remove a slanted edge (45 degrees about 1mm) from the actual brake material. Do wear a mouth guard, the dust that comes off doesn't seem very healthy. Squeaking occurs because the brake pad vibrates very quickly on the brake disc when braking, you can remedy this by removing a small slanted edge. 😀
Hi Vince. Just a small point with your spraying. Most of the aerosol paints need to be baked in an oven. a 60 watt light bulb with a plastic sheet over it and trying to keep the cold air out for as many hours as you can afford should give a semblance of the hardness of the final result required.
Nice work chap. From someone who's restored a fair few bikes, soaking dirty parts (!?) in either diesel or paraffin before you start jobs like this will save you a lot of elbow grease. Brake cleaner may be the 'right' stuff for this job, but both diesel and paraffin are excellent degreasers, they're cheap and easy to get hold of . . . and won't unlike petrol (also a good degreaser) they won't burst into flames.
you can use compressed air in the pipe entry to remove pistons too , But keep fingers away and use a block of wood to stop the Piston from launching into orbit
A Parts washer would be a good investment Vince, they are not super expensive and would really help with cleaning parts. Also it might be worth checking that the discs are the reccomended thickness as they are an MOT failure now if they have too much wear.
The whole idea of the clicking means you’ve reached the torque setting you’ve set it to, going more means you’ve over done it. Depending on the bolts that could be extremely bad
I love it, you are so lucky if them seals with the c clip are that easy. Usally the seal c clip needs to be hidden within the caliper in a Grove. But I think you got away with such hard task We will see on next top up of caliper oil for leaks. Well done
Yes I think your right I went back to when he popped them out and I think the ring was inside not the outside and also I thought the seal needs to be put in a channel first inside then push the piston in
The inner seal inside (square cut pressure seal) is all that’s between brakes and no brakes on all callipers! Think about that next time you’re doing 90 on the motorway and hit the stop peddle.
Just by looking and listening to you straining 😅I can tell You have put more than 55 foot pounds of torque on those bolts I would be interested to see what you actually have done them up to. Great video please keep going high light of my week watching these. Thanks😊
It's a slow and very time consuming process restoring an old vehicle, I do enjoy watching these vids. would have been nice for it to have been stored in a garage than left out to mother nature, no point in erecting a gazebo as they tend to blow away here in the uk lol.
I remember as we tried to get out the calipers from these kind of brakes. They were rusted a bit in place. After a while of thinking we connected it to a air compressor. Pressure up and it shoot out like a gun. Good it did hit just the ceiling not someone's head.
@26:24 - This is the rust jacking I wrote about in your last Rolls video. I use a small carbide garden shear sharpener to cut that rust jacking off. It must be chipped off. Brushes and sandpaper don't cut it.
It's best practice to put a little anti seize paste where the pad contact metal on the edges that way you can be sure they won't get hung up and can movie freely it's kind of like grease for brake pads and you can get it at any auto parts store
Nice work, Vince. Quick questions, Are the calipers painted from the factory? They could be of course (now) and they are meant to look that way. Loving this series, by the way. Thanks for sharing.
Clean the caliper with piston and old boot in place ,check if bleedscrews will undo and replace with new ones. Blow out pistons with an airline if available and do not reassemble caliper where all the rust and dirt is from cleaning .Also soak piston seals in fluid overnight.
Useful video my Renault Twizy needs it's brakes rebuilding as rubbing on the disks and needs new pads, local garage don't want to touch with it been an EV
I managed a repair shop that did repairs and service in R-R cars on a regular basis I need to warn viewers of this video shows what might be best called a back yard brake job, not a professional job. I realize keeping these cars on the road is expensive, but brake work is no place to try to save money.
Vince, you are becoming quite an auto mechanic. You are working indoors now albeit in a shed😅 Result! Seriously though most of us shade tree mechanics unlike the pros have to fix autos curbside, under a car port, a drive way or in a car park au natural. Cheers.
You want brake fluid / Lhm fluid on the seals to lubricate them when assembling it all back together but also everything on the outside should be cleaned with brake clean before hand of course remove any rubber
I would measure the thickness of those discs. That lip is big, just make sure that the disc thickness is not under the recommended spec. If there is enough meat, you could find a shop to cut off a bit from them. I would have painted those calipers.
May I comment that it not a good idea to uses a drill bit as a punch since it is hardened steel which can shatter in pieces when impacted. This can pose a serious eyes hazard. Keep safe.
Vince driving the rolls: yikes my brakes aren't working! Viewers: oops we forgot to remind him about the bolts Torque those bolts next time you revisit the rolls Vince! 😊
While you have the wheel off, in an earlier epic, you illustrated that the wheel was not centered to the wheel arch and was wondering if you looked into it? Or did I miss something? Ian
Ralph Kurzon and Gary Mavers have already made videos about the correct way to deal with the calipers - good job but there are better videos out there that demonstrate the correct tools to use
I think you should bleed the fixed side before rebuilding the other side but I suppose it isn't that big of a deal if you bleed both sides in one day but you are probably gonna have alot of air to get out should be fairly simple though although may still take a little while
The pins you call split pins or cotter pins are actually called R clips as if you look at the from the side they look like an R.
The "weird clip" that look like a V is there to keep the pads off the disc when the brakes are not applied, this reduces noise and pad chatter.
You are correct the dust cover does not need to be lubed, if you do need some lube to help it into place silicone spray works great on rubber.
Any motor factor will stock brake grease, I like Apec brake grease and I would have smeared the pins and R clips in grease to stop them seizing whilst also greasing the contact surfaces on the sides of the pads and on the calipers making sure you do not contaminate the brake friction material with grease.
These surfaces need to be very clean, obviously the pads do not need cleaning as they are brand new but the calipers would have benefited from a going over the a wire wheel on a drill or cut off tool to remove scale and rust where the pads contact the caliper. You need these areas to be clean and greased or as just like you found one the pads can seized in the caliper. The pads need to slide smoothly inside the caliper with little effort.
The piston was not seized as if it was you would not has been able to get it out like you did with a screw driver
Don't use copper grease or white grease, brake grease is so cheap its not worth using something else that wont do the job as well, the grease needs to be of a very high melting point as the pads and caliper can get very very hot. Most greases will either flash (burn) or just turn into liquid and run off with the possibility that the run off goes onto the disc and again contaminating the friction material.
Also no need to put grease on the back of the brake pad, those pads have a shim pre-installed with material on them to stop them seizing to the piston and to stop chatter so adding grease will just cause problems as it will allow all the brake dust to stick and build up in that area. Copper grease wont damage the dust cover.
Fitting new pads onto old disc whilst not dangerous can lead to break squeal and increased pad wear. As the pads bed into the shape of the old disc this can cause squealing.
As I mentioned last time if you are going to work on the brakes and suspension you need to get yourself some semi permanent thread locker, best to be safe than sorry as these system are critical to your safety and of other road users.
The thread locker is a belt and braces approach so if the bolt was to come loose it would not come completely free and fall off.
Remember over tightening a fixing it just as bad as under tightening it, when you got to torque the bolts up slacken them off fully first so when you do check them with your torque wrench you are actually torquing to bolt up to the required torque specification. If the bolts are over tightened the torque wrench it just telling you that bolt is as tight as what it is set to it wont tell you if the bolt is over tightened.
All the best, Adam
Pinned again Adam to help others out as well. I just ordered up some Sealey SCS271S Stud Lock High Strength 50ml from Amazon. It was cheaper than the Loctite version and the reviews seems overall very positive. I will apply it onto the bolts when I torque them up and I will of course loosen them first as I may have gone over. Shame you are not more local to me as I would love you to do the welding of the lower suspension cup, I appreciate this is awful job so you might have declined anyway 😂 I have also purchased 75ml of the Apec brake grease from eBay, I will still be able to apply this carefully to the areas you mentioned albeit where the pads meet the calipers probably won't seep in. As always thanks again for all the help 😎👌
the only thing i'd add to Adams advice is to check the edges of new pads for excess paint.......seen many many brand new pads over the years with thick paint runs on the edges that make them a tight fit......quick run over with some emery sorts it out in seconds
@@Mymatevince No problem Vince I forgot to say great job on changing the seals on the calipers, glad they did not cause you any grief as I am sure you will agree you have had enough of that already with this car.
Just had a look at the Sealey SCS271S and I would not use that. it is Stud lock so is classed as a permanent thread locker so you would use it on bolts or studs you are not going to need to undo again.
If you use stud locker and you need to undo any of those fixings again you are going to have a very hard time and in some cases are not going to be able to undo the fixing.
What you want is "semi" permanent thread locker or nut locker as this will stop fixings from coming loose but also allow you to undo them in the future.
I use Loctite 243 but if you want to use Sealey SCS243S nut locker will do the trick, semi permanent thread locker is usually blue in colour, permanent or stud locker is green or red in colour.
Would love to come and help you in anyway I could, I think I did mention I am in Nottingham which is a fair old distance from you if I remember where you are correctly.
To weld that suspension arm you are going to need some Argon welding gas and a welder that can deliver some serious amps.
Look at welding like soldering, first everything has to be clean as you are trying to attach to metallic pieces together by melting them.
Anything sitting in between them is going to cause problems just like soldering on top of corrosion is a recipe for disaster so preparation is key for a good solid weld, the cleaner the better that includes degreasing with thinners or brake cleaner.
That also goes for oxygen getting in the way which is why we need welding gas much in the same way you need flux to solder.
Then you need a welder that can provide enough power to heat/melt the suspension arm, your repair piece and the welding wire all into one homogeneous molten puddle.
Think of this like soldering a connection on a ground plane sinking away all your heat and you are also using to small of a tip resulting in a cold solder joint.
All the best
Adam
@@APSuk2 Thanks Adam, I have just ordered up the Loctite 243 50ml from eBay. The other Sealey stuff will come in handy for other things no doubt.
Nice comparison between the soldering and the welding. Purely because the lower suspension mount is so critical I am going to leave it up to a professional to do that (if I can find one who is happy to tackle it). If I did it, I would forever be looking under the car wondering if it is about to go 😂👍👍
@@Mymatevince No worries Vince, any questions please feel free to ask me and I will do my best to help you. I would give you my email and phone number but I can't obviously do that here.
Fair enough about the suspension repair and I totally understand.
Nothing wrong with understanding your limits.
I hope you can find someone down there who will do a good job for you, many garages do not carry out welding & if they do it is not something they do on a regular basis which means skills are lacking. On everyday cars the whole arm would just be changed.
I am a professional mechanic and i still love to see how you fix this stuff up. I really enjoy the restoration. Thx for your great content.
Hi way did you not tell him about brake cleaner
Great comment, you wouldnt be a real mechanic if you criticised everything that he hasn't done correctly like some of the pathetic comments
@@smashyrashy Was thinking the same myself 👍👍
Currently watching you rebuild the caliper, good work one thing I wish you'd be doing is sending them off to be blasted and then paint them silver or black before rebuilding them, just so they look nicer haha. Keep up the work bud.
I'm finally done watching the playlist of this car build journey took me 3 days to watch them all
Wow, a proper binge watch. I thought it would be finished after 30 episodes!!! Cheers for watching them👍👍👍
I do believe from watching South Maine Autos that you put some high temperature grease on the ends of the pistons and in the groves where the brake callipers sit to prevent them seizing up. But I'm no mechanic, just what I saw, I only say this because I'm guilty of not doing it, but with a set of brake pads for the Nissan Pulsar they included a foil wrapped bit of grease and the subsequent explanation of what it was for. Again a great fix it video, always good to watch you working on the Rolls Vince.
I didn't see this mentioned, and i have no idea if the car piston seals are like the bike (motorcycle) piston seals i've used, but those were not actually square (sectional view) , they have an "edge" a bit taller than the others - that "edge" goes on the inside (away from the pads). They might not have one, or even so, they might work fine, but if you get any brake fluid seeping around the pistons, that's likely the culprit.
I love the series, and I really wish it would bring you the revenue you deserve!
GGGgggr8 job Vince.
Brakes are daunting to most home mechanics, but they are simpler than you think, I don't know why you didn't have any, but you usually get a small pack of brake grease with rebuild kits, you just place a small amount anywhere the pads slide against i.e. the pins and where the pads rub against the caliper housing etc.
But through time the grease does get contaminated by brake dust etc causing more sticking and wear, so some mechanics love the grease, others say leave them dry and let them shine up naturally with the movement of the pads.
You have more than likely done them by now, but with rear brake pistons you may need to unscrew them, this depends on the hand brake adjustment mechanism, make sure you clean and wire brush the screw threads then a bit of brake grease before refitting, hopefully your RR doesn't have screw in pistons.
All in all you did a fine job sir, luckily the R.R. is too old for these new computerised brake wind back/bleed mechanisms that are notorious for jamming.
A whole 5 👍👍👍👍👍for this vid.
Vince , try soaking parks in Gunk, then jet wash them clean. Petrol makes a good solvent , wire brush and elbow greese.
Buen trabajo
La próxima vez, lava con agua y limpia con Limpiador de Frenos antes de armar.
Usa lubricante Sintético Glicerina para no dañar las gomas (Wynns Senfineco Sonax)
Usa lubricante para temperatura partes móviles. Puede ser de cobre.
... y verifica Torques y purgas
From Chile
Great vid as always vince. Love to see how the car is coming along .I think while you had the calipers stripped apart . It might of benefited you to sand blast and powder coat the caliper. Would greatly help with corrosion. Also adding a little caliper grease on the pins the brake pad slides on is good practice.
Some brake cleaner and a wire brush for those calipers Vince.. And those discs/rotors are knackered . Horrible lip on there mate..
I look forward to every video, especially this series.I can't wait to see how she ends up.
Thanks Daniel, really glad you are enjoying the series. I'm hoping it will be roadworthy sometime in 2023, massive thanks for the top level support as well 👍👍👍
Excellent Vince you are so adaptable to any task, you are doing an absolutely blinding job on Rolls well done
I never serviced my car brakes but if they are anything like bicycle disc brakes (which I did service multiple times), you want to avoid having brake fluid outside of the closed system. On top of attracting dirt and dust (as you pointed out in the video) it will contaminate the pads and reduce braking performance if it gets to them.
Also, I am quite impressed with your work on this car so far. A real pleasure to watch… Looking forward to part 33.
Thanks Julien, brake fluid outside of the closed system becomes a bit of a problem in PART 33 😂😂😂
@@Mymatevince 😲 quite a teaser… looking forward to the release of that video although it sounds like a painful experience for you ☹️
@@jbouvrais Haha, it wasn't too bad. I'll get it released Friday night over on Patreon, maybe Thursday night if I have time👍👍👍
I would love to have seen you do a deep clean on those calipers wire brush and cleaning fluid. Making certain that there is no dirt any were near your new parts. Looks better as well. your rubber rings just put oil on the caliper. But as always a blood good watch. Thanks M8. Yours Peter T Wales UK.
Great video. Watch everything you do. A simple word of advice from a complete novice though be to watch out for touching the braking surface of the pads with your hands as any oils will absorb into the pads and damage the pads. Can't wait for the next video
Great!!! Glad that task turned out to be a fun task with less things to stress you out! It will be interesting to see where the leak is coming from on the other side, and see if the side you just did leaks - I hope not lol!!!
Thanks Chris! Part 33 has quite a bit of brake fluid where it shouldn't be...I won't say anymore. I'll release Part 33 Friday night on Patreon 👍👍👍
Get your self a couple of cans of brake cleaner It’s excellent at not only cleaning brakes but anything oily. Loving the vids vince A pleasure to watch as always
Get 5l and a sprayer. Can even use on some of you smaller repairs, I have used brake cleaner on stainless watch parts.
You should give the brake disc a quick clean up with a disc grinder; get rid of the ridge and clean up the rust around the ventilation orifices.
Vince grab a wire brush and some brake clean spray and all that gunk will come right off the outside. I love your videos!
That's the best use of the Confidential newspaper
Nicely done Vince! I do envy your patience cleaning anything dirty. You are like a professional scrubber 😀and not stopping unless it's REALLY clean.
36:48 when storing your torque wrench you are supposed to keep the tension off the spring inside by untwisting it otherwise it can go out of calibration after 20 years...
hi 2 dust covers for the front and two for the back. DON'T use copper grease, use only brake grease
we use break cleaner to clean up everything works great
in US
i loved that you called the seal a black washer and had no idea what it was for !
Nice job, with the next one just grind the edge of the brake disc with the angle grinder. You can still do that with this one. Then you can mount them much more easily and the pads will wear out more regularly. To prevent squeaking you can also remove a slanted edge (45 degrees about 1mm) from the actual brake material. Do wear a mouth guard, the dust that comes off doesn't seem very healthy. Squeaking occurs because the brake pad vibrates very quickly on the brake disc when braking, you can remedy this by removing a small slanted edge. 😀
Hi Vince, Notice how you always find the interesting articles when using the newspapers to mop up oil leaks or wrap up fish 20:26 😅
you need to turn the wheel out of the arch Vince it will make undoing and tightening the nuts so much easier
Hi Vince. Just a small point with your spraying. Most of the aerosol paints need to be baked in an oven. a 60 watt light bulb with a plastic sheet over it and trying to keep the cold air out for as many hours as you can afford should give a semblance of the hardness of the final result required.
Nice work chap. From someone who's restored a fair few bikes, soaking dirty parts (!?) in either diesel or paraffin before you start jobs like this will save you a lot of elbow grease. Brake cleaner may be the 'right' stuff for this job, but both diesel and paraffin are excellent degreasers, they're cheap and easy to get hold of . . . and won't unlike petrol (also a good degreaser) they won't burst into flames.
telll us all the secret......where are you getting cheap diesel from???????🤣🤣🤣
A tip for the reader's.
I normally use abit of loctite on the big bolts that hold everything up feels safer.
Great video!.
you can use compressed air in the pipe entry to remove pistons too , But keep fingers away and use a block of wood to stop the Piston from launching into orbit
I can count 7 tape measures on your Dad's work bench! I bet there are loads more squirrelled away in there too. 😂
Anyone see the spider 🕷.... love the video!
A Parts washer would be a good investment Vince, they are not super expensive and would really help with cleaning parts. Also it might be worth checking that the discs are the reccomended thickness as they are an MOT failure now if they have too much wear.
Love the collection of tape measures on the bench
We all love your Irish 'H' over here in Ireland and we all say a big hi to your Dad :)
looking good Vince. Car would be pulling to 1 side when breaking I think with the way it was.
Well done. You can use a car foot-pump or a bicycle pump as a makeshift airline (fitted with a balloon adaptor or tyre valve)
You are such a blessing. I hate working on cars in the winter…. In fact I hate working on cars any time. 😂
The whole idea of the clicking means you’ve reached the torque setting you’ve set it to, going more means you’ve over done it. Depending on the bolts that could be extremely bad
Love this series and love “The Trick”. 👍
I love it, you are so lucky if them seals with the c clip are that easy.
Usally the seal c clip needs to be hidden within the caliper in a Grove.
But I think you got away with such hard task
We will see on next top up of caliper oil for leaks.
Well done
Yes I think your right I went back to when he popped them out and I think the ring was inside not the outside and also I thought the seal needs to be put in a channel first inside then push the piston in
The inner seal inside (square cut pressure seal) is all that’s between brakes and no brakes on all callipers! Think about that next time you’re doing 90 on the motorway and hit the stop peddle.
Just by looking and listening to you straining 😅I can tell You have put more than 55 foot pounds of torque on those bolts I would be interested to see what you actually have done them up to. Great video please keep going high light of my week watching these. Thanks😊
Great video 👍. It might be worth buying a kneeling pad if you are working on the floor a lot. You don't want housemaids knee!
Nice job - All you need is a respray and nearly done
This seems to be a kind of luxurious version of the common Pakistani truck repair behaviour. Working on the ground too but on a newspaper! 😁 ;-)
Great job Vince!
Another great video Vince!! Thanks for the great entertainment! Cheers from the US of A.
hu hu hu, he said, "haych" instead of, "ayech". Epic voice-over. Liked it as that's exactly what I was thinking at the time.
Vince don't forget to torque the brake nuts!
A little BrakeKleen goes a long way. Keep it clean just like your famous IPA does.
Nice one and wilco for the bolts
Feels like I was just watching Vince repair a Xbox controller with a weird fault!
It's a slow and very time consuming process restoring an old vehicle, I do enjoy watching these vids. would have been nice for it to have been stored in a garage than left out to mother nature, no point in erecting a gazebo as they tend to blow away here in the uk lol.
Great job there! I really love this series.
I remember as we tried to get out the calipers from these kind of brakes. They were rusted a bit in place. After a while of thinking we connected it to a air compressor. Pressure up and it shoot out like a gun. Good it did hit just the ceiling not someone's head.
excellent all we hear ever time excellent
@26:24 - This is the rust jacking I wrote about in your last Rolls video. I use a small carbide garden shear sharpener to cut that rust jacking off. It must be chipped off. Brushes and sandpaper don't cut it.
Through Power washing on the car before starting work might be an idea.
Personally, I would have used copper paste for assembly
It's best practice to put a little anti seize paste where the pad contact metal on the edges that way you can be sure they won't get hung up and can movie freely it's kind of like grease for brake pads and you can get it at any auto parts store
Nice work, Vince. Quick questions, Are the calipers painted from the factory? They could be of course (now) and they are meant to look that way. Loving this series, by the way. Thanks for sharing.
Get a good few cans of brake cleaner and a few tooth brushes cleans a treat.
Clean the caliper with piston and old boot in place ,check if bleedscrews will undo and replace with new ones. Blow out pistons with an airline if available and do not reassemble caliper where all the rust and dirt is from cleaning .Also soak piston seals in fluid overnight.
great stuff - again
Useful video my Renault Twizy needs it's brakes rebuilding as rubbing on the disks and needs new pads, local garage don't want to touch with it been an EV
I managed a repair shop that did repairs and service in R-R cars on a regular basis
I need to warn viewers of this video shows what might be best called a back yard brake job, not a professional job.
I realize keeping these cars on the road is expensive, but brake work is no place to try to save money.
Vince, you are becoming quite an auto mechanic. You are working indoors now albeit in a shed😅 Result! Seriously though most of us shade tree mechanics unlike the pros have to fix autos curbside, under a car port, a drive way or in a car park au natural. Cheers.
always after using torque wrench wind it all the way down again , never leave it under tenstion
Really excellent - well done
Remember to torque the bolts😊
Oh my my oh heck yeah time to put on that party dress.
Nicely done brakejob :)
break cleaner spray and brush and they would be like new
You want brake fluid / Lhm fluid on the seals to lubricate them when assembling it all back together but also everything on the outside should be cleaned with brake clean before hand of course remove any rubber
I would measure the thickness of those discs. That lip is big, just make sure that the disc thickness is not under the recommended spec. If there is enough meat, you could find a shop to cut off a bit from them. I would have painted those calipers.
Brake cleaner works well on brakes.
Slowly getting through all of these. Just to check, did you get around to torquing those bolts?
You have used brake cleaner spray it’s easier and more through,and it dose not leave any residue behind
👍👍👍👍
Well done Vince, very interesting :)
31:25 wow that's a lot of brake pads ... double calipers... Brits really like good brakes!
May I comment that it not a good idea to uses a drill bit as a punch since it is hardened steel which can shatter in pieces when impacted. This can pose a serious eyes hazard. Keep safe.
Short bristle brush and petrol to ckean all caliper parts up, or drop in a bosh ll good though mate. 73's Andy M6APJ
Vince driving the rolls: yikes my brakes aren't working!
Viewers: oops we forgot to remind him about the bolts
Torque those bolts next time you revisit the rolls Vince! 😊
Turn your wheels to full lock,gives you room
What's "lock"?
@@eadweard. when you turn your steering wheel fully each way ,it is called "turning the steering from lock to lock".
at least you tightened those bolts to 300nm lol
Another great job Vince. You're as bad as me. I just refurbished the wifes landrover calipers a few videos back.
Perhaps if that spring clip went on the top of the brake pad it would stop the pad springing out into the disk on the other edge
90lb FT and you must use stud lock!!
Just ordered some Sealey SCS271S Stud Lock High Strength 50ml. Thank you 👍👌👍👍
While you have the wheel off, in an earlier epic, you illustrated that the wheel was not centered to the wheel arch and was wondering if you looked into it? Or did I miss something? Ian
29:56 Looking for a suspicious guy in hoodie the neighbours said was probably trafficking Rolls-Royce parts... 😁
to bad you don't have an air compressor you could just blow the pistons out
KGf: Kilograms of Force
Ralph Kurzon and Gary Mavers have already made videos about the correct way to deal with the calipers - good job but there are better videos out there that demonstrate the correct tools to use
I think you should bleed the fixed side before rebuilding the other side but I suppose it isn't that big of a deal if you bleed both sides in one day but you are probably gonna have alot of air to get out should be fairly simple though although may still take a little while
I'd assume the brake wear sensor wears through and breaks the circuit rather than earthing it. Earthing wouldn't need two connections.