Filling the gaps without body filler, 1969 Firebird restoration
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- Wanting clean body gaps and don’t like the idea of just using body filler then check this out.
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Jon, you got the whole car straight and showed us the steps! Excellent work.
Thanks now onto body work or test drive 🤔
Thank you Jon, for going into great detail, from the ordering parts problems to how to approach a restoration with a tape measure and plum bobs before a person gets overwhelmed and usually sits because of lost interest. Gotta Save those Birds!
Making it work with what I have at hand and still getting it right. Then showing the steps to prove it can be done to keep you out there getting your hands dirty.
Great tips Jon. Mockingbird is looking great. Its so frustrating when parts orders are wrong.
Wrong parts happen. Annoying for sure but good news is I don’t need the interior at the moment just figured would get it going knowing I would hit some roadblocks. Normally interior kits other than black takes 3-5 months to fill.
The Mockingbird is coming out great thank you for sharing the trick on the door and fenders you my friend are amazing 👏
Thanks brother
Behind the scenes is exactly the stuff we need. The car is really straight and looking amazing. Thanks for sharing the detail stuff.
All the details that get us to the end, not always fun but part of the journey
Great work Jon. I'm putting a 47" TV in the Garage so I can reference your video's while looking at the car. I have to build a rear frame jig while missing the front 10+ inches of each rail. Leaning on your content again this summer.
Go for it! Because that means I made it to the big screen!!😎
The car already looks amazing. Enjoy watching a true craftsman work.
Appreciate that.
There are a few things I find very difficult to do on 67 to 69 F body converts (1) The convertible frame install & alinement & bow adjustments, (2) the stainless rear convertible trim molding install without damaging it (3) rear 1/4 window install & adjustment. These ALWAYS seem to be a nightmare only on the Converts and to be honest to date my 68 drivers side 1/4 glass on my 400 is STILL not completely right after 4 attempts over years of working with it. P/S your shop looks great, MY 2 car also has 30+ Pontiac & Olds & Chevy V-8 motors & 350 & 400Turbo trans stacked inside.
Congrats on 10k subscribers, Jon! Well-deserved. Good video on gaps.
Thanks a ton! It was a nice victory that I am proud to make it to that mark.
Looks like your welder is really dialed in. Never thought about welding with the door closed. Makes perfect sense now that I see it done. Thanks for showing us how.
It works for me and happy with it.
Very impressive how you fixed your gaps! I would probably have ended up taking the door and fender on and off about 47 times 😂
I like to find a way to work smarter not harder I know we hear that all the time but I live by it
I know these tips from many of your videos been huge help for me with my 1969 camaro. Getting ready to do driver side subframe mount and kick panel but first inner rocker panel. I'm going for full floor replacement. And I'm no body guy! Mechanical side I've always done well on. So now I have a small Fortune in AMD parts waiting for installation. I thank you very much for many of your videos
Glad to help! I really like amd stuff it’s a few more bucks but normally less issues with them.
I learned to torch weld with coat hangers with an uncle we built 2 Jeep's for plowing snow in Michigan works great 👍
Me too I brazed many mufflers and exhaust pipes with coat hangers.
Nice follow-up to the door/fender gap initial spacing vid. The weird space-gap issue I have on 3 of my 5 '69 Firebirds with new OER quarters and factory doors is the top radius above the door handle. Always kinda wonky looking in that area from the factory. This'll be a great massaging fix! THX!
I have the same repair on the drivers side door to do.
John you always get amazing results for just a little 2 car garage!! Keep up the fantastic work!!👍🏽
It can be done!
Great “how-to” video Jon. You provide a great step by step guide for the home hobbyists. The door gap turned out great. Would you do the same to the opposite side to close the quarter to door gap, or slice the quarter panel a bit to reduce the jam gap. I have that problem on the driver’s side and haven’t decided on a method, yet.
Well depends I have done either way. If the problem was the 1/4 panel I cut it if it’s the door I add to it. And if I can’t tell which one is out of wack go with which one is easier or will look more correct
Great work !!
Thanks a lot!
I did the exact same thing on my 67 Camaro. Tune in that gap without body filler.
It is definitely more durable and doesn’t really take much more time.
I'm really enjoying the build John that would definitely be one of my dream cars.
The 1969 trans am is my all time favorite car followed by 1969 gto judge. It’s on my wish list to own a real trans am
Awesome. Very thorough. You are an artist.
Thanks really enjoy the puzzles and making them better than new.
Nice job....great content on gapping panels... looking forward to seeing more...thanks🔧👍
More to come!
The car is looking great!!
Thanks
Nice work my friend!
Thanks man!
It's looking good!
Thank you.
I like the idea of putting weight in the car. My wife is about 450 pounds, so I need a lot of weight to prep the car for settling. Don't hate, them big women need love too. She usually rides in the bed of my F250.
👍
Classic Industries can be the suck when you order parts online. Been buying parts from them for over 30 years and I have found that it was better to just drive there and pick them up. Of course that may not work for everyone.
Yeah it’s a bit of a drive for me unfortunately. This is the first time I have ordered directly from classic and not impressed with customer service so far.
@@VinylVillageGarage yup, they have not changed their customer disservice model in over 40 years. I have a friend who ordered a grill shell for his 1968 Camaro, and they sent him a fan shroud bracket and tried to convince him, that is what he ordered.
Jon, if you had to replace the rear lower half of a front fender (from the chine down) because of rust outs and holes, would you just buy a re-pop and cross your fingers it fit decent? It's a lot of work to do a patch panel that big and get the angles, contours, and body lines to match. Maybe a re-pop would get me a little bit further ahead with less work? What say your expert opinion? Thank you.
I have yet to mess with repop fenders. I have only heard horror stories about fitment especially 1969 birds. I have repaired fenders for me like you said the concern is getting proper fitment. I have installed the fenders well what’s left them, take a strap of metal and tie the fender to the door at the correct position above the bad area with a few small tacks to support the fender while I make or repair the bad sections. To try and repair a fender that bad off the car would be extremely challenging especially if you don’t have an expose to get measurements from.
Now repop might not be a bad choice I have been very happy with every part I bought here as of recent. I have debated buying or even better part supplier should donate fenders to me for a real honest review.
@@VinylVillageGarage Thank you so much for the response and sharing your opinion Jon. One more quick question... other than AMD and Dynacorn, what is the other repop mfg? I'm trying to find it in your older videos, but can't seem to locate it. Thanks again.
@@tommyspencer7891OER is another name that sells replacement panels I use
@@VinylVillageGarage That's it. I appreciate it Jon.
Looks like the door is a little high (or fender low), hence the rubbing at the top.
Nope the body line wouldn’t line up then. The issue is the hinge I have it pulled out to far, it’s to far from the pivot causing it to swing wide. Shimmed the hinge at the a pillar and then moved the door back in and all is well
question what size are the rims and tires ???
On this car 14x7 rim and 225/70r14 tires
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you for your time and help
@user-ie3xu8gi7o no problem
When possible I would put a piece of copper the width of the wanted gap in the gap and weld against it. Just a different way to get the same out come.
Not a bad idea!
💪😎
👍
Definitely a lot gooder
Gooder indeed
It's those parts that are always wrong that takes so much fun out of it for me. I'd say for me, it's about 50-50 if the parts I order will show up correct and not damaged. I live in Canada so it's even more of a PITA to return stuff. The last one I had was the rear leaf springs from Eaton Detroit Springs. One spring had the correct arch and the other one was totally off. I had to get them to check them before they shipped the replacement because they kept getting it wrong and shipping others that were incorrect. Quality control is always an issue, especially with these small companies that provide parts for these older cars.
These parts are labeled right so I asked them to check inventory before shipping again and end up same way. So far haven’t heard a word