Thank you so much for posting this video. I used it to fix my dryer and it saved me almost $400.00. I hate that if you're an average person you can't have your things repaired without having to pay outrageous amounts of money. The repair guy told me the part was $150.00. I got a whole kit with extra spare parts off of amazon for 32.00. I really appreciate you taking the time to share! My dryer was a little different but not so much that I couldn't figure it out with your help.
you are an ANGEL for making this video!! My model is slightly different and has access through the back instead of the front, but otherwise I relied heavily on this video to do my repair. A note: for that electric connector that gave you so much trouble, I found that if you squeeze the sides with pliers, the plastic will bulge outward and you can just yank the male part right out.
If you search the video referenced in the very beginning of this video the repair guy shows you how to do it easily with a flathead screwdriver. I was really aggravated at how simple it was cause I had already spent 20 minutes trying to get it off without breaking it. lol
Awesome video! I disassemble everything, to find exactly the same problem you did. I oiled everything with 3 and 1 dry oil, put it back together and it is perfect. We will see just how long it lasts, but the next time... If you just pull the front bottom piece off, you can reach that pulley with some oil, and you are done. In other words. Tip back the dryer, remove 4 screws, oil the idler arm pulley and re assemble, DONE!
My belt snapped on my Kenmore, I ended up changing my pulley wheel as well as my four drum wheels so I used your video as my manual. Your instructions were clear and my repair went smoothly because of it. Great video!
Thank you for your excellent video. I followed it step by step and had no problems installing the belt, the four drum rollers and the cable pulley roller. Your attention to detail was excellent. Great job with the video!
Thank you! Your directions were spot on. I have the same dryer and, until I found this, I could not find instructions for this dryer with the control panel it has. You saved me about $200.
Thank you very much for your video. My wife and I were able to repair our Kenmore Elite HE5 110.97721700 dryer. I had ordered a repair kit but once we got inside we found that the dryer motor pulley had disintegrated. We replaced it along with the drive belt and idler pulley wheel. We could not have done it without your assistance. Thanks again!
Thank you so much for this video. You reassured me that it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be and that I could fix this myself instead of having a repair man come out and charge me a ton of money. I have the same identical units as yours so I will follow all of your steps. Thanks again. Great video.
Wow! It looks like you made this video 7 years ago and people are still referring to it to this day. My husband and I aren’t repair people but we watched the video, ordered the kit from Amazon, and then slowly and step by step followed the instructions to completion. I pushed the button and it works! As you said in your video “crisis averted”!
Putting the drum and belt back on is probably the hardest part when you're trying to do it the wrong way. After looking at the diagram from the manual that was inside the dryer, and with an extra hand, it was a piece of cake. Thanks for your video, it helped me the most. Plus after vacuuming the insides, I believe it's heating more so.
Thank you for your video! This single mama felt empowered enough to give it a go and was able to fix my broken dryer! Very nice detail. I replaced all 4 wheels, the idler pulley and the belt.
Thank you Jim for this video - it was EXACTLY what I needed to figure out my Dryer Squeal and was a perfect step-by-step video to repair and replace necessary parts. Thank you again for your video, and your time !!! Saved me a few hundred !!!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. My Dryer is almost identical as yours and I was able to fix the squeaking noise following the steps in your video. The repair kit cost me only $40.00 including shipping. I called several places for an estimate and they charge $80.00 just for the diagnosis.
I have gas version of this dryer. Replacement was exactly the same. Very helpful especially during COVID pandemic. Ordered parts and followed video. No need to draw pic of pulley and belt since he draws it for you in the video :). Thanks for an amazing video
Thanks for the video. I’m not very good at things like this but with your video my son and I got it done in an hour and half. Thanks also for showing the part number for the parts, sears wanted $45.00 just for the pulley but I searched that part number on Amazon and found the same package of parts for $21.00.
-*Thank you for your video. I replaced the thermal fuse, and your video helped in showing how to remove the blower shroud, and remove the front cover. The hardest part for me was re-installing the bottom cover, once the door and front cover were back in place. I cannot tell you how excited I was when I pushed the start button and the dryer came back to life. FYI... this journey began when the dryer stopped in mid cycle. No rotation and no heat. Just as you showed in your video, the fan volute was plugged with lint, and caused the fuse to over heat and fail. The console powered up, lights came on, and I could hear the relay energize, but no rotation of the drum. I am so thankful that you shared your experience with us. I recommend cleaning it more frequently that every 15 years, as in my case. I was lucky and found a fuse at a local used appliance center in our city. Thanks again for sharing. I am ready for the idler pulley when it goes out.
Just found this . Same exact noise, same dryer. Ordered parts kit. Need dryer working asap so Im not going to wait for parts going to take apart and hopefully I can make temp. Repairs till parts come in. Your video is spot on. Much appreciated. Stay safe.
Oooraaah! Great job my friend. Local guy wanted $375 to fix my dryer. You saved me over $325!! Most of us get get around fixes like this with help from guys like you and a little common sense. Thank you for posting.
Thank you for this vid. My dryer needed a belt replaced. It was squeaking loudly and the belt was about to snap and this helped with disassembly. Good opportunity to clean and oil and vacuum out the dryer too, had a full lint trap. Thanks for this vid.
Your video was RIGHT ON...Luckily my dryer was the same model as yours and everything went very smooth, following your step by step instructions. THANK YOU
I had the EXACT same noise. So, I used a flashlight to watch the belt travel around the drum and then through the pulley. I noticed that the pulley would pause, once in a while during the spinning. The squealing is pretty intense and it sounds like bearing that isn't spinning properly so I was quite concerned about a lint fire inside the unit. But your video really helped show me the tensioner pulley and, how the pulley had plastic around the outside. But also had a metal hub, rotating around a metal axle. I let the unit cool and rotated the pulley manually. It was quite hard to spin. So I dropped some "3-In-One" oil on the axle and rotated it again manually. Then started the dryer again. No squealing now. So again, I shut things down, let it cool a few minutes before I again added some oil to the spindle and metal parts of the pulley. It just ran through a whole cycle without any noise. Upon inspection, the belt does not seem to be worn. And to oil the pulley, only the lower cover that covers the blower motor, needs to be removed to do this. I REALLY appreciate your uploading the video so I understood how all of this works. I'm sure that I'll be back later to actually replace the belt, etc when it wears out. TY!
I agree with Troy.... only two additional screws. I took my time, pausing to vacuum out and blow compressed air to clean out the insides. Your video was perfect!
This is an amazing DYI. I did however speak to a repair expert of 30 years and he said he ALWAYS replaces the idler wheel WITH the whole new assembly using a few drops of gear oil as lubricant. In his experience- if you don't replace this armature as a whole, he said you risk it acting up within a couple weeks. But this IS a fantastic video to follow during the repair ! Thanks : )
i didn't even replace mine i took it out, cleaned the shaft with some brake cleaner and cleaned the idler pully with some brake cleaner, added some moly grease and put it back together.. we'll see how long it lasts. the shaft and bearing seemed fine, just needed some cleaning
Awesome video. There’s so many out there that aren’t nearly as detailed as yours including the errors you made along the way. AND….its my exact model. Thank you thank you thankyou. I already had most pulled apart and the parts. My idler siezed up grenadine my motor pulley and breaking my belt. I decided to get down to it today and got pissed off trying to get those electrical connections undone. Now to try again I’ve said it once but again. THANK YOU!!!
Great video. I also found the video you cite at the beginning, but had to figure out the panel myself too since ours is different. Hate those lock connectors .... the one at the bottom to the right of the blower motor housing took both hands and 2 screw drivers for me to get apart. I got my repair kit off Amazon for $25
Great video, it helped me alot too. My person observation: I bought two kits, one including just the wheels and belt, the other including the full idler and wheel/shaft assemblies. All of the loose replacement wheels were slightly wobbly, so I decided to replace the whole shaft. For some reason, they just didn't want to come out. I forced one out with an impact, and the threads were destroyed in the process. After that fiasco I went with the wobbly wheels on the original shafts. So now I have 3 original shafts and three slightly out of round new wheels, and one new shaft with one proper new wheel. Now I have a rhymic clunk as the drum spins from the mismatch. It's not bad enough to take it all apart again, but it's something to consider if you're replacing the wheels. Don't do the shaft kit, just do the wheels, and perhaps order multiple brands and use the best ones.
Ordered replacement wheels off of Amazon and within a week had to replace one with an old one. A week later I replaced the others with the old ones. The idler pulley was the one making noise, so all I really needed to do was take the wheels off,clean up the axles with emery cloth, grease them and put back together.
I just did this today to our HE3... Pulled all the wheels and idler pulley, cleaned both shaft and hub with mineral spirits, reapplied oil/grease and it's quiet as a church mouse again. Opening it up gave me the chance to vacuum years of accumulated lint/dust out of the unit and it works so much better now!
Great to know, thanks Troy! Btw, were the part numbers you ordered for the HE5 the same as well? (EDIT: To answer my own question, it looks like yes -- was able to "verify" that the kit part number works with my model number [which is a bit more specific than just HE5 and was found on in the inside rim of the dryer door when opened -- as if to add or remove clothes.])
Edwin E Ecker Jr 1 second ago I replaced the idler by using the two 3 " vent holes on the rear and side of the cabinet to access the bearing and with my left arm in the side hole and my right arm in the rear hole was able to take off the spring to release the tension and change the roller. It takes a bit of dexterity but took about 45 min to do the whole job.
Man, this dryer just has too many things to undo and put back together! I'm glad to still have my old 1990's Whirlpool dryer, it's so simple and easy to fix compared to these newer ones. But, that's what the companies who manufacture them want to see, they want to see them breaking down -- so that you have to go out and buy another one! My Whirlpool dryer is still going strong after 20 years, the only thing that I've had to do to it recently is replace a small sensor that cost $15.00. . Buy Whirlpool . . . those appliances last you 20 to 25 years! I purchased my Whirlpool fridge and my washer and dryer set over 20 years ago and they're still working great!
Just did this fix, but only removed the lower panel. Here's how. 1. Remove front lower panel 2. Kill breaker and remove front blower cover behind panel. 3. Push pulley up and to left to loosen belt, slide belt off. 4. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off triangle lock washer. 5. Pull pulley off. 6. Clean shaft and pulley bushing with alcohol. Removes any old grease. 7. Grease shaft and inside pulley bushing. 8. Reattach pulley, lock washer and belt. Test and reassemble both covers. You can use a phone set to portrait camera mode to look at the pulley inside the dryer.
@@stevensoong3233 my repair did not last long. The belt continued wearing into the pulley so I had to buy the part and install it. Same installation method though.
@@richiesun9676 Lol, my fix didn't last longer either. It's squealing again. So the groove in the pulley is making the noise?! I will have to buy the part too.
This was a hugely informative video since this is seemingly the EXACT model I have, but how did you manage to pull the drum wheels off? Do they literally just slide off when the triangle clip is removed? The drum wheel doesn't seem to want to slide past the groove the clip sits in and I don't want to damage anything by forcing things by pulling it from behind. Thanks in advance for any insight you might have!
Great video Thank You. Those bushings are oilite bushings that have oil impregnated into the metal.. As they wear the bushing exposes more oil and it lubricates itself. Bearings would have been better but then they would probably last forever..
You find two additional front assembly screws located on the inside of front panel on the Kenmore Elite He5 front load dryer (Model 110.87091601) These are accessed from the inside yop just below the slotted screw holes.
First of all, great video! I was blown away with the triangle spacers, it is nothing more than a failure waiting to happen. The Engineers have degrees and I may only be a Simple Machinist but I would have used Teflon washers/spacers for more durability and extreme lifetime dependency. I’m a Disabled Veteran with nothing but time to think of a better way and share my ideas.
I would like to know if anyone could respond to this post with the shaft diameter as well with the thickness of the spacers. Also, I would consider using A Silicone Lube as appose to any grease because of the dust. The silicone penetrates the surface and eliminates dust buildup. Thanks in advance
I replaced the idler by using the two 3 " vent holes on the rear and side of the cabinet to access the bearing and with my left arm in the side hole and my right arm in the rear hole was able to take off the spring to release the tension and change the roller. It takes a bit of dexterity but took about 45 min to do the whole job.
I just did the rollers and tensioner replacement, but I forgot to mark the drum. It seems to work fine. Is there a real issue with putting the drum in backwards?
Great information in this video. I wish I saw it over a week ago when I had to order my part. I had to order the whole pulley bracket assembly because the spindle the pulley slides into was worn on the one side. I picked up the bracket this morning get home and see that it's the wrong bracket. It's flanged on the wrong side so won't sit flat unless I turn it around in which case it goes to the wrong side. May I ask where you ordered that assembly kit from?
Your video is the best one I found (layman terms) I am using the kit w/4 support rollers, belt and idler pulley, idler pulley will be a spare because I ordered the idler pulley with the idler arm. I purchased all these parts through Speedy Appliance total cost including 3 day priority shipping was an amazing $41.95.... I'm thinking using a lubricant on the shaft is asking for trouble, with the dust and lint combined with a lubricant will cause a sort of cement and most likely will seize up your rollers and pulley! Jim Dandy you did an excellent job for the DIY community with your production. I am curious if any issues ever come up from using a lube on the wheels and pulley? Thank you, great deal of help here!
I get this same noise from the exact same model dryer. However, when I remove the lint screen and run the dryer the noise stops. When I put the screen back in, it starts again. With this in mind, is it likely to also be the idler pulley or could it possibly be a different issue with a different solution?
Update. Took idler pulley off , lubed , flipped around, belt rides on the outer portion away crom the motor. Also lubed the 4 wheels. No more noise. If the manufacturer installed bearings instead of bushings these dryers would last much longer
In most cases you don't even need to replace the drum rollers just clean the inner sleeve bearing and shafts with lacquer thinner apply liberal amounts of turbine oil ( found at Home Depot in the swamp cooler section) and reinstall. Same thing with the idler pulley unless it has that we're grooving it.
Yup... Did nearly exactly that today. Pulled an cleaned all hubs and shafts (used mineral spirits) and re-lubed with a combination of silicone grease and oil. All better once again.
going to try and use this to fix the belt. although the wires at 2:56 do not come off as a latch, or anything like that. i will have to figure it out later. very helpful video though!
Thank you so much for posting this video. I used it to fix my dryer and it saved me almost $400.00. I hate that if you're an average person you can't have your things repaired without having to pay outrageous amounts of money. The repair guy told me the part was $150.00. I got a whole kit with extra spare parts off of amazon for 32.00. I really appreciate you taking the time to share! My dryer was a little different but not so much that I couldn't figure it out with your help.
you are an ANGEL for making this video!! My model is slightly different and has access through the back instead of the front, but otherwise I relied heavily on this video to do my repair. A note: for that electric connector that gave you so much trouble, I found that if you squeeze the sides with pliers, the plastic will bulge outward and you can just yank the male part right out.
If you search the video referenced in the very beginning of this video the repair guy shows you how to do it easily with a flathead screwdriver. I was really aggravated at how simple it was cause I had already spent 20 minutes trying to get it off without breaking it. lol
Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to make this video. It saved us from needlessly replacing our washer/dryer set.
Awesome video! I disassemble everything, to find exactly the same problem you did. I oiled everything with 3 and 1 dry oil, put it back together and it is perfect. We will see just how long it lasts, but the next time... If you just pull the front bottom piece off, you can reach that pulley with some oil, and you are done. In other words. Tip back the dryer, remove 4 screws, oil the idler arm pulley and re assemble, DONE!
My belt snapped on my Kenmore, I ended up changing my pulley wheel as well as my four drum wheels so I used your video as my manual. Your instructions were clear and my repair went smoothly because of it. Great video!
Thank you for your excellent video. I followed it step by step and had no problems installing the belt, the four drum rollers and the cable pulley roller. Your attention to detail was excellent. Great job with the video!
Thank you! Your directions were spot on. I have the same dryer and, until I found this, I could not find instructions for this dryer with the control panel it has. You saved me about $200.
Thank you very much for your video. My wife and I were able to repair our Kenmore Elite HE5 110.97721700 dryer. I had ordered a repair kit but once we got inside we found that the dryer motor pulley had disintegrated. We replaced it along with the drive belt and idler pulley wheel. We could not have done it without your assistance. Thanks again!
Thank you so much for this video. You reassured me that it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be and that I could fix this myself instead of having a repair man come out and charge me a ton of money. I have the same identical units as yours so I will follow all of your steps. Thanks again. Great video.
Wow! It looks like you made this video 7 years ago and people are still referring to it to this day. My husband and I aren’t repair people but we watched the video, ordered the kit from Amazon, and then slowly and step by step followed the instructions to completion. I pushed the button and it works! As you said in your video “crisis averted”!
Thanks for the work put into the video. My dryer is closer to yours than other videos I could find got the job done with little fuss so Im grateful
June 2024 just bought the same parts on Amazon 43.99 worked like a champ...
Putting the drum and belt back on is probably the hardest part when you're trying to do it the wrong way. After looking at the diagram from the manual that was inside the dryer, and with an extra hand, it was a piece of cake. Thanks for your video, it helped me the most. Plus after vacuuming the insides, I believe it's heating more so.
Thank you for your video! This single mama felt empowered enough to give it a go and was able to fix my broken dryer! Very nice detail. I replaced all 4 wheels, the idler pulley and the belt.
This video saved me so much money, I will admit I was rather nervous to tackle such a adventure, but I did it, many thanks to you kind sir.
Excellent video. Helped me out big time! Probably would not have dug into this fix myself without your video. Thanks a lot!
Followed your directions on my H4 and it worked out well. Thank you Jim.
This video was perfect, and gave me step by step instructions on how to make this repair. I used the same kit, and it went perfectly.
Thank you!!!
Thank you Jim for this video - it was EXACTLY what I needed to figure out my Dryer Squeal and was a perfect step-by-step video to repair and replace necessary parts. Thank you again for your video, and your time !!! Saved me a few hundred !!!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. My Dryer is almost identical as yours and I was able to fix the squeaking noise following the steps in your video. The repair kit cost me only $40.00 including shipping. I called several places for an estimate and they charge $80.00 just for the diagnosis.
I have gas version of this dryer. Replacement was exactly the same. Very helpful especially during COVID pandemic. Ordered parts and followed video. No need to draw pic of pulley and belt since he draws it for you in the video :). Thanks for an amazing video
Thanks for the video. I’m not very good at things like this but with your video my son and I got it done in an hour and half. Thanks also for showing the part number for the parts, sears wanted $45.00 just for the pulley but I searched that part number on Amazon and found the same package of parts for $21.00.
Thank you for a video! I just changed the puley on Kenmore H3 following your instruction.
-*Thank you for your video. I replaced the thermal fuse, and your video helped in showing how to remove the blower shroud, and remove the front cover. The hardest part for me was re-installing the bottom cover, once the door and front cover were back in place. I cannot tell you how excited I was when I pushed the start button and the dryer came back to life. FYI... this journey began when the dryer stopped in mid cycle. No rotation and no heat. Just as you showed in your video, the fan volute was plugged with lint, and caused the fuse to over heat and fail. The console powered up, lights came on, and I could hear the relay energize, but no rotation of the drum. I am so thankful that you shared your experience with us. I recommend cleaning it more frequently that every 15 years, as in my case. I was lucky and found a fuse at a local used appliance center in our city. Thanks again for sharing. I am ready for the idler pulley when it goes out.
Just found this . Same exact noise, same dryer. Ordered parts kit. Need dryer working asap so Im not going to wait for parts going to take apart and hopefully I can make temp. Repairs till parts come in. Your video is spot on. Much appreciated. Stay safe.
Thanks for playing noise before hand. Everyone else’s video does not let you hear it before repair
Great video. I ended up replacing my idler pulley but approached the replacement from the rear. Worked like a charm.
Oooraaah! Great job my friend. Local guy wanted $375 to fix my dryer. You saved me over $325!! Most of us get get around fixes like this with help from guys like you and a little common sense. Thank you for posting.
Thank you for this vid. My dryer needed a belt replaced. It was squeaking loudly and the belt was about to snap and this helped with disassembly. Good opportunity to clean and oil and vacuum out the dryer too, had a full lint trap. Thanks for this vid.
Your video was RIGHT ON...Luckily my dryer was the same model as yours and everything went very smooth, following your step by step instructions. THANK YOU
Thanks Jim for this tutorial - saved me much aggravation on my Maytag 5000 series!
You're actually a genius
I had the EXACT same noise. So, I used a flashlight to watch the belt travel around the drum and then through the pulley. I noticed that the pulley would pause, once in a while during the spinning. The squealing is pretty intense and it sounds like bearing that isn't spinning properly so I was quite concerned about a lint fire inside the unit.
But your video really helped show me the tensioner pulley and, how the pulley had plastic around the outside. But also had a metal hub, rotating around a metal axle.
I let the unit cool and rotated the pulley manually. It was quite hard to spin. So I dropped some "3-In-One" oil on the axle and rotated it again manually. Then started the dryer again.
No squealing now.
So again, I shut things down, let it cool a few minutes before I again added some oil to the spindle and metal parts of the pulley. It just ran through a whole cycle without any noise.
Upon inspection, the belt does not seem to be worn.
And to oil the pulley, only the lower cover that covers the blower motor, needs to be removed to do this.
I REALLY appreciate your uploading the video so I understood how all of this works. I'm sure that I'll be back later to actually replace the belt, etc when it wears out.
TY!
I agree with Troy.... only two additional screws. I took my time, pausing to vacuum out and blow compressed air to clean out the insides. Your video was perfect!
0
This is an amazing DYI. I did however speak to a repair expert of 30 years and he said he ALWAYS replaces the idler wheel WITH the whole new assembly using a few drops of gear oil as lubricant. In his experience- if you don't replace this armature as a whole, he said you risk it acting up within a couple weeks. But this IS a fantastic video to follow during the repair ! Thanks : )
i didn't even replace mine i took it out, cleaned the shaft with some brake cleaner and cleaned the idler pully with some brake cleaner, added some moly grease and put it back together.. we'll see how long it lasts. the shaft and bearing seemed fine, just needed some cleaning
Fantastic video!!! I have the exact same model and was able to fix it with your assistance. And what a pain that one connector is!!
Awesome video. There’s so many out there that aren’t nearly as detailed as yours including the errors you made along the way. AND….its my exact model.
Thank you thank you thankyou.
I already had most pulled apart and the parts. My idler siezed up grenadine my motor pulley and breaking my belt.
I decided to get down to it today and got pissed off trying to get those electrical connections undone.
Now to try again
I’ve said it once but again.
THANK YOU!!!
Fantastic video, just completed the fix with no issues. Thank you!
Jim, thanks for the video. It helped me tremendously. You saved me a lot of money. Take care!
Thank you so much for doing this video! I have the same dryer with the same problem. Fixed it myself thanks to you!
Great video. I also found the video you cite at the beginning, but had to figure out the panel myself too since ours is different. Hate those lock connectors .... the one at the bottom to the right of the blower motor housing took both hands and 2 screw drivers for me to get apart. I got my repair kit off Amazon for $25
You can fix the dryer what a hard worker you are
This was most helpful. This dryer is somewhat more complex than the basic dryers.
Great video, had i had the grease at home, i would have fixed in about half hour.. very concise .. thank you for posting this..
I have never done one of these newer dryers but evidently they are almost identical ( as far as mechanics ) to the dryers from 25 years ago
I appreciate this video saved me from another $2k expense 10/10 man
So appreciative of the video. You helped save us a ton of money which is helpful in this season.
Thanks for this video. I replaced the idler pulley and arm through the bottom opening (blind) with the help of this video. Great Stuff thanks again
Great video, it helped me alot too. My person observation: I bought two kits, one including just the wheels and belt, the other including the full idler and wheel/shaft assemblies. All of the loose replacement wheels were slightly wobbly, so I decided to replace the whole shaft. For some reason, they just didn't want to come out. I forced one out with an impact, and the threads were destroyed in the process. After that fiasco I went with the wobbly wheels on the original shafts. So now I have 3 original shafts and three slightly out of round new wheels, and one new shaft with one proper new wheel. Now I have a rhymic clunk as the drum spins from the mismatch. It's not bad enough to take it all apart again, but it's something to consider if you're replacing the wheels. Don't do the shaft kit, just do the wheels, and perhaps order multiple brands and use the best ones.
Thanks! my dryer is now working great !
This was a great video and greatly helped me repair my dryer. Thank you
Thanks!! Your directions were perfect!!
If you're like me and needed to do this fix, but don't want to completely disassemble the thing. Just take the back off for easy access.
Disassembling is way easier.
Video helped with a belt replacement too. Thanks!
Super helpful video. You saved me a bundle of money. Merry Christmas!
Thank you. Big help to make things quicker.
Thanks for the video. It really helped to make this job easier. u da man!
Thank you. You made me look like a genius!
Man I owe you big time! Got the pulley on Amazon for $7! Your diagram of how to put the belt back on saved me a bunch of time.
Thank you for helping people like me God bless you!
Ordered replacement wheels off of Amazon and within a week had to replace one with an old one. A week later I replaced the others with the old ones. The idler pulley was the one making noise, so all I really needed to do was take the wheels off,clean up the axles with emery cloth, grease them and put back together.
I just did this today to our HE3... Pulled all the wheels and idler pulley, cleaned both shaft and hub with mineral spirits, reapplied oil/grease and it's quiet as a church mouse again. Opening it up gave me the chance to vacuum years of accumulated lint/dust out of the unit and it works so much better now!
Thank you! THis was really helpful. IhHave an HE5 and other than two screws on the inside near the top holding the door everything was the same.
Great to know, thanks Troy! Btw, were the part numbers you ordered for the HE5 the same as well?
(EDIT: To answer my own question, it looks like yes -- was able to "verify" that the kit part number works with my model number [which is a bit more specific than just HE5 and was found on in the inside rim of the dryer door when opened -- as if to add or remove clothes.])
Great video. I just cleaned and lubricated the pulley wheel and ordered to replace but squeal is gone. Thanks so much
thanks for your video Miguel fixed my dryer
Thank you for this video It helped out tremendously!!!💪🏻
Thanks for the walk through. $50 fix.
Thanks for your video. Bought the Maintenance Repair Kit 4392067 on Amazon for $38 CDN.
Huge help! Thanks for the tips.
Edwin E Ecker Jr
1 second ago
I replaced the idler by using the two 3 " vent holes on the rear and side of the cabinet to access the bearing and with my left arm in the side hole and my right arm in the rear hole was able to take off the spring to release the tension and change the roller. It takes a bit of dexterity but took about 45 min to do the whole job.
Man, this dryer just has too many things to undo and put back together! I'm glad to still have my old 1990's Whirlpool dryer, it's so simple and easy to fix compared to these newer ones. But, that's what the companies who manufacture them want to see, they want to see them breaking down -- so that you have to go out and buy another one! My Whirlpool dryer is still going strong after 20 years, the only thing that I've had to do to it recently is replace a small sensor that cost $15.00.
.
Buy Whirlpool . . . those appliances last you 20 to 25 years! I purchased my Whirlpool fridge and my washer and dryer set over 20 years ago and they're still working great!
great step by step... work great for me save me time
i just did this repair. thanks for the video!
It worked great! Awesome video.
Just did this fix, but only removed the lower panel. Here's how.
1. Remove front lower panel
2. Kill breaker and remove front blower cover behind panel.
3. Push pulley up and to left to loosen belt, slide belt off.
4. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off triangle lock washer.
5. Pull pulley off.
6. Clean shaft and pulley bushing with alcohol. Removes any old grease.
7. Grease shaft and inside pulley bushing.
8. Reattach pulley, lock washer and belt.
Test and reassemble both covers. You can use a phone set to portrait camera mode to look at the pulley inside the dryer.
I just did what you said, open the bottom panel and oil the pulley and the noise was gone! ty and op.
@@stevensoong3233 my repair did not last long. The belt continued wearing into the pulley so I had to buy the part and install it. Same installation method though.
@@richiesun9676 Lol, my fix didn't last longer either. It's squealing again. So the groove in the pulley is making the noise?! I will have to buy the part too.
@@stevensoong3233 hehehe. Mine went a month at least.
Thank you so much for the video. I cleaned and lubricated my idler pully and the squeal is gone. Hopefully it'll last.
Thanks! this was helpful!
You sir! Are awesome!
Thank you! thank you! thank you!
Thanks, other than a couple subtle differences I was able to replace the pulley on my Kenmore HE , Squeaks are gone.
Can you go into the back to replace idler pulley
This was a hugely informative video since this is seemingly the EXACT model I have, but how did you manage to pull the drum wheels off? Do they literally just slide off when the triangle clip is removed? The drum wheel doesn't seem to want to slide past the groove the clip sits in and I don't want to damage anything by forcing things by pulling it from behind. Thanks in advance for any insight you might have!
This was a great video. Thank you!!!!
Thanks for the video. Very informative
Also. To route the belt access from the back is very good.
Great video Thank You. Those bushings are oilite bushings that have oil impregnated into the metal.. As they wear the bushing exposes more oil and it lubricates itself. Bearings would have been better but then they would probably last forever..
Thank you! Time saver!
Wow really easy repair, you just have to gut the whole dryer to replace the belt.
You find two additional front assembly screws located on the inside of front panel on the Kenmore Elite He5 front load dryer (Model 110.87091601) These are accessed from the inside yop just below the slotted screw holes.
Yea, I found those today doing this repair, threw a couple of f-bombs till I saw them.
First of all, great video! I was blown away with the triangle spacers, it is nothing more than a failure waiting to happen. The Engineers have degrees and I may only be a Simple Machinist but I would have used Teflon washers/spacers for more durability and extreme lifetime dependency. I’m a Disabled Veteran with nothing but time to think of a better way and share my ideas.
I would like to know if anyone could respond to this post with the shaft diameter as well with the thickness of the spacers. Also, I would consider using A Silicone Lube as appose to any grease because of the dust. The silicone penetrates the surface and eliminates dust buildup.
Thanks in advance
I replaced the idler by using the two 3 " vent holes on the rear and side of the cabinet to access the bearing and with my left arm in the side hole and my right arm in the rear hole was able to take off the spring to release the tension and change the roller. It takes a bit of dexterity but took about 45 min to do the whole job.
Thank You outstanding video!!!!
I just did the rollers and tensioner replacement, but I forgot to mark the drum. It seems to work fine. Is there a real issue with putting the drum in backwards?
Great information in this video. I wish I saw it over a week ago when I had to order my part. I had to order the whole pulley bracket assembly because the spindle the pulley slides into was worn on the one side. I picked up the bracket this morning get home and see that it's the wrong bracket. It's flanged on the wrong side so won't sit flat unless I turn it around in which case it goes to the wrong side. May I ask where you ordered that assembly kit from?
Your video is the best one I found (layman terms) I am using the kit w/4 support rollers, belt and idler pulley, idler pulley will be a spare because I ordered the idler pulley with the idler arm. I purchased all these parts through Speedy Appliance total cost including 3 day priority shipping was an amazing $41.95....
I'm thinking using a lubricant on the shaft is asking for trouble, with the dust and lint combined with a lubricant will cause a sort of cement and most likely will seize up your rollers and pulley! Jim Dandy you did an excellent job for the DIY community with your production. I am curious if any issues ever come up from using a lube on the wheels and pulley?
Thank you, great deal of help here!
Love the video bruh
U made it easy for me.😃👍🇺🇸
I get this same noise from the exact same model dryer. However, when I remove the lint screen and run the dryer the noise stops. When I put the screen back in, it starts again. With this in mind, is it likely to also be the idler pulley or could it possibly be a different issue with a different solution?
If just replacing the idler pulley tension wheel (not the drum wheels), can you just remove the back panel instead for faster easier access to pulley?
Update. Took idler pulley off , lubed , flipped around, belt rides on the outer portion away crom the motor. Also lubed the 4 wheels. No more noise. If the manufacturer installed bearings instead of bushings these dryers would last much longer
In most cases you don't even need to replace the drum rollers just clean the inner sleeve bearing and shafts with lacquer thinner apply liberal amounts of turbine oil ( found at Home Depot in the swamp cooler section) and reinstall. Same thing with the idler pulley unless it has that we're grooving it.
Yup... Did nearly exactly that today. Pulled an cleaned all hubs and shafts (used mineral spirits) and re-lubed with a combination of silicone grease and oil. All better once again.
going to try and use this to fix the belt. although the wires at 2:56 do not come off as a latch, or anything like that. i will have to figure it out later. very helpful video though!
Good video👍😃
I'm just trying to change belt but this is the exact dryer i have