I saw a review a few years back on the 460 procomps. You said the exact same thing. I'm building a 460 too. I using a pair of 70 doove casting with a little bit of a port clean up.
One of the things you mentioned about the lip underneath the valve seat ring in the throat of the ports is correct, it certainly isn't going to help flow. But that ridge at the top of both valve seats (very visible at the 11:00 mark) will be detrimental as well. Especially on the intake. Especially at low lift Also, it's hard for me to tell, but it appears that those seats are cut with three angles, and the bottom one is really, really wide. Could be an optical illusion If that's the case, you might want to look it having the machine shop go in with an extra angle to open up the bottom of that throat area. If that minor diameter of the valve seat is less than 90% of the diameter of the valve, you're probably leaving from horsepower on the table there, too
50+30 doesn't equal 90-95cc, you got the medium size chamber heads, which were 80cc! So double check your math and maybe you'll be Abit closer to the compression ratio your shooting for. I've owned a set of these and got away with grinding/lapping the valves to the seats to get them to seal out of the box. But my guides needed to be reamed Abit since they were too tight on the exhaust guides for my liking. Keep them videos coming for us bbf boys!
question,,?? do you think they would still leak with the springs in ,,ive got a set of BBF blue thunders with chevy exhaust port,Really cool heads,i just found your channel keep it going,i like anything FORD ,!!!,I still have my 77 bronco half cab from high school,,
My experience with them I bought a set loaded as I was going to change the springs to go with my cam I had a bunch of tight guides and the seats were cut for the 2.08 x 1.66 valves the valves that came with them were 2.19 x 1.76 so I had to spend a few bucks to get them straightened out. Another crazy thing was the spark plug hole they are cut for a 14mm tapered seat not the 14mm long reach gasket style like they say they take. But after all that they run pretty well
You should port them with a street strip port job and put Ferrea 2.25/188 valves in them. Have a reputable shop do a 5 angle valve job!! Have them flow tested now and after so you can shit yourself!!
I was very disappointed in PC heads. I bought a set of SBF heads and spent more on them straightening them out, than what I paid for them. Valve guide to rocker stud alignment, seat installation depth and concentricity, valvetrain geometry and spacing, spring pad machined symmetry, all were way off on both heads, among other things. I bought them bare and I'm glad, because I had to go with larger valve sizes, adjustable guide plates, larger studs, and bigger diameter springs just to get the basic alignments close, not counting the machining it took.
I'm a little surprised that someone intelligent enough to find and recognize the problems (albeit after purchasing the heads) with the heads would have purchased them in the first place.
Valve seat pressures can be a problem. Having used Crane recomended seat pressures [and checked] they were too light. Went up 15lb seat pressure and the engine had another 500 useable rpm. Have seen this on roller hydraulic a few times. They need a fair bit of spring, both open and closed
@@bryanroupe8646 corona virus at x mas.cheap heads,everybodies sick..nothing selling,i just got a mag from summit racing,,im in aus..must be hard up for sales.stay safe..
Ah I see lol. Everything went on sale just after this bullshit started but most of the sales are over now. I hope the sale on the Promax heads come back lol.
@@bryanroupe8646 a paren tly,,here in aus,,utes are hard to come by as people cant travel so buying 4x4 utes to travel in state..watch ronny dahl,looking for a new 4x4.he,s in w.a.
I'm about to order a set for a cleveland...I'm ordering them bare do you think they're a good choice...and I also heard that chi was the only intake that will work is that true?
No I don't have a way to locally. For my 500 hp goal they don't need much more than some clean up and smoothing. I am really hoping to dyno the engine when done.
295 cc is bigger than ford super cobra jet heads ! Did you actually cc intake ports ? I doubt that those ports are that big low rpm killer not good for street!
@port nut we shall see! The cam is pretty mild and I wouldn't consider these heads huge. The cam guy knows what he is doing. It's a big block not a Windsor!
You're an engine builder???? Send them off to a machine shop for your minor leaks? Why would you even consider using these heads without lapping the valves first? Why even test them without lapping? Super easy put a little valve grinding compound on the seat and valve, chuck up your battery powered drill onto the valve stem and spin them over till you get a nice even clean valve seat.
Not cool. You spent a lot of money fire these and you still have to machine these heads. I would send them back. But if you paid a decent price and can afford the get them right, it might be worth buying. These days I would always count 9n having to do some work on any cylinder heads to get them to flow their best, seal well and bring them up to the standards you want when you Bhutto a race head. It’s sad that we have to do that, but it’s what you get when you buy anything from China!
if,you are not capable of doing that work yourself,,buy decent heads.unless you paid 400 for the pair.?.std 460 heads are good enough,you only gain less lbs..460 build=..pistons,cam,job done..chev build,= big bin,then $$$$$$$$$$$$ speed shop.
Oh shit. I was looking for absolutely anyone who has dealt was these heads.
I saw a review a few years back on the 460 procomps. You said the exact same thing. I'm building a 460 too. I using a pair of 70 doove casting with a little bit of a port clean up.
I would have considered it but this was a fuelie motor so I had no decent heads to start with
One of the things you mentioned about the lip underneath the valve seat ring in the throat of the ports is correct, it certainly isn't going to help flow.
But that ridge at the top of both valve seats (very visible at the 11:00 mark) will be detrimental as well. Especially on the intake. Especially at low lift
Also, it's hard for me to tell, but it appears that those seats are cut with three angles, and the bottom one is really, really wide.
Could be an optical illusion
If that's the case, you might want to look it having the machine shop go in with an extra angle to open up the bottom of that throat area. If that minor diameter of the valve seat is less than 90% of the diameter of the valve, you're probably leaving from horsepower on the table there, too
I would have just lapped the valves , those leaks arent large enough to warrant a valve job.
My American made heads came with it's own valvetrain, but when I bought my cam I had to buy a completely different valve train.
50+30 doesn't equal 90-95cc, you got the medium size chamber heads, which were 80cc! So double check your math and maybe you'll be Abit closer to the compression ratio your shooting for. I've owned a set of these and got away with grinding/lapping the valves to the seats to get them to seal out of the box. But my guides needed to be reamed Abit since they were too tight on the exhaust guides for my liking.
Keep them videos coming for us bbf boys!
I can't remember what was said in the video but they are 93-95cc for sure. Some parts might have been edited
He said it rite. 60 was the first shot and 50 was the second but he only used 30. 60+30=90. Stop listening toooooo sloooooowww.
question,,?? do you think they would still leak with the springs in ,,ive got a set of BBF blue thunders with chevy exhaust port,Really cool heads,i just found your channel keep it going,i like anything FORD ,!!!,I still have my 77 bronco half cab from high school,,
Yes they were checked with the springs in IIRC
My experience with them I bought a set loaded as I was going to change the springs to go with my cam I had a bunch of tight guides and the seats were cut for the 2.08 x 1.66 valves the valves that came with them were 2.19 x 1.76 so I had to spend a few bucks to get them straightened out. Another crazy thing was the spark plug hole they are cut for a 14mm tapered seat not the 14mm long reach gasket style like they say they take. But after all that they run pretty well
You should port them with a street strip port job and put Ferrea 2.25/188 valves in them. Have a reputable shop do a 5 angle valve job!! Have them flow tested now and after so you can shit yourself!!
Great video!
I was very disappointed in PC heads. I bought a set of SBF heads and spent more on them straightening them out, than what I paid for them. Valve guide to rocker stud alignment, seat installation depth and concentricity, valvetrain geometry and spacing, spring pad machined symmetry, all were way off on both heads, among other things. I bought them bare and I'm glad, because I had to go with larger valve sizes, adjustable guide plates, larger studs, and bigger diameter springs just to get the basic alignments close, not counting the machining it took.
I'm a little surprised that someone intelligent enough to find and recognize the problems (albeit after purchasing the heads) with the heads would have purchased them in the first place.
Valve seat pressures can be a problem. Having used Crane recomended seat pressures [and checked] they were too light. Went up 15lb seat pressure and the engine had another 500 useable rpm.
Have seen this on roller hydraulic a few times. They need a fair bit of spring, both open and closed
you can find a set of these heads on Ebay for a good price ,and lower in price around christmas
or covmas
@@phantomwalker8251 what is covmas
@@bryanroupe8646 corona virus at x mas.cheap heads,everybodies sick..nothing selling,i just got a mag from summit racing,,im in aus..must be hard up for sales.stay safe..
Ah I see lol. Everything went on sale just after this bullshit started but most of the sales are over now. I hope the sale on the Promax heads come back lol.
@@bryanroupe8646 a paren tly,,here in aus,,utes are hard to come by as people cant travel so buying 4x4 utes to travel in state..watch ronny dahl,looking for a new 4x4.he,s in w.a.
I thought you were supposed to lap the valves to make them seal correctly? Did you try that? Before sending to get work done?
On good heads you don't need to, see my other video on Promaxx heads. And possibly but these are too far out amd will need machine shop help
Also I did a video on lapping valves, junkyard head rebuild
I'm about to order a set for a cleveland...I'm ordering them bare do you think they're a good choice...and I also heard that chi was the only intake that will work is that true?
Not sure I haven't run them on a Cleveland! As far as PC heads o wouldn't hesitate to run them with the corrections mentioned
Why would you ask this guy if it's raining outside he doesn't know nothing stop taking da opinions
What did the engine dyno at?!?
What is your opinion of the Jon Kaase SR-71 head ???
Never seen them. Jon Kaase is the big block ford guru, legend though
Normal Stuff that you run into on all brands of heads-not just pro comps
Would not agree, check my video on Promaxx heads; they had none of these issues
Are you flow testing the heads ?
No I don't have a way to locally. For my 500 hp goal they don't need much more than some clean up and smoothing. I am really hoping to dyno the engine when done.
Yeah I have the exact same heads with the Barr’s in exhaust side
he did.
295 cc is bigger than ford super cobra jet heads ! Did you actually cc intake ports ? I doubt that those ports are that big low rpm killer not good for street!
Too big? Several big block Chevy heads in the 320cc intake range. All about how you cam it
@@cprgarage3206 not factory!
@port nut we shall see! The cam is pretty mild and I wouldn't consider these heads huge. The cam guy knows what he is doing. It's a big block not a Windsor!
It is my understanding that these heads have standard passenger car intake ports rather than CJ size. No?
I believe the intakes are cobra jet size. I have not had my hands on a set of iron CJ heads though
@@cprgarage3206 these heads are pretty much a copy of the D0VE heads and the exhaust resembles the TFS heads (hence the raised port)
Would be a waste of time to cc heads without sealing the valves, so basically you were checking to see if your valves were sealing or not.
You're an engine builder???? Send them off to a machine shop for your minor leaks? Why would you even consider using these heads without lapping the valves first? Why even test them without lapping? Super easy put a little valve grinding compound on the seat and valve, chuck up your battery powered drill onto the valve stem and spin them over till you get a nice even clean valve seat.
No lol I'm not an engine builder dingus
@@cprgarage3206 Well you are doing reviews, so you must be some kind of professional right? Dungus
@@rondye9398 Sorry Ron but you're coming off as special needs.
Not cool. You spent a lot of money fire these and you still have to machine these heads. I would send them back. But if you paid a decent price and can afford the get them right, it might be worth buying. These days I would always count 9n having to do some work on any cylinder heads to get them to flow their best, seal well and bring them up to the standards you want when you Bhutto a race head. It’s sad that we have to do that, but it’s what you get when you buy anything from China!
I don't like those combustion chambers...
if,you are not capable of doing that work yourself,,buy decent heads.unless you paid 400 for the pair.?.std 460 heads are good enough,you only gain less lbs..460 build=..pistons,cam,job done..chev build,= big bin,then $$$$$$$$$$$$ speed shop.
These heads are rubbish! I would not use them even for free!