I am curious, if they would let you in with an 8.1 truck LOL, half the people in my group argue with me it is an LS. My brother just moved there so I may attend
@@surfssup95 y do u say this because u have no idea what u are saying. i have lived on the east coast and the west coast hands down the west coast wins we have way more classic cars they are a dime a dozen . i have a lot of rust free cars and trucks . i have 8 square body trucks that are rust free just sitting all have good clean bodies on them . my 68 pu still has factory paint and rust free got it for free same with all the pu's i have and most of my cars , i have mopars , fords and chevys only keep the rust free rigs part and scrap the rest can u say that on the east coast . i picked up a 66 gto for 500 bucks drove it to ny and got 6,500 out of it in 10 min. . i use to do this a lot and made a lot of money off the east coast . right now i have a easy million worth of just project rigs sitting in my back yard got most for free i have 10 acres just for project rigs and i am not the only one either we have many places like this .just one ranch give me a 79 short box 4x4 400 sbc with 400 turbo with under 35,000 original miles in mint condition 67 rs ss 427 camaro 68 ss 396 camaro 2 79 z28's the 67 was half restored then outside the shop i got 15 pu's all in good shape just needed engine work . i picked up my 70 high boy with a 390 dana 60/80 lockers rust free tool box on side ranger with extra parts like front clip doors chrome trim and lights for 250 bucks . then what i know that is just laying around all over the place . just like i got a bunch of new panels like floor pan rocker panels cab corner that was given to me but don't need them even got a 68 air condition cab for a chevy rust free just sitting in the dirt . does this help u to understand the difference from east coast and west coast
@jeffrey hollenbeck lol i didnt even bother reading your long comment. Im just saying that ls fest east has been going on for ovet 10 years and so alot more people come then west which just started 2 years ago
I'm a ford guy, but you are building some killer rigs. I prefer this format so much more. I remember when Stacy left trucks how po'd I was. Then again when Ian left extreme. it's great you guys all post content here now. Much easier to access and I feel like you get to communicate things that truly matter. Keep on doing your thing man, and I'll keep watching.
Brake lines pop every day here in Minnesota. In my 4 years as a tech ive done 30+ brake line jobs on 99-06 chevys. Very know to pop behind the fuel tank, along the axle or right under the floor behind the LF cab mount.
Where were you 2 years ago when I put a 2/4 drop on my gmc pickup. It would shake at highway speed. I used a 4 degree shim then I went to a 6 degree until the shaking went away. Love the progress on your trucks 👍
The first time I used a plasma cutter to remove the factory rivets from the spring hanger I wondered how I did it any other way. They are so cheap anymore. I use my grinder less than half as much as before. I love what your building, my dream is to take a 99 olds bravada and graft the awd setup onto a 72 chevelle that I bought (crashed in the front bad enough I have to do something no matter what). I love the awd v8 street machine built from the GM parts bin leftovers kinda vibe.
A few notes I'm sure you've already had in mind, but just to be sure. Leaf springs bind under roll conditions, and so actually can act as their own sway bar. By adding a rear sway with a very soft front, the truck will likely be very oversteer prone right now. Stiffening up the front with coilovers and a bigger sway will help a lot. I've also heard of leaf spring performance being improved by retrofitting a spherical bearing in the bushing position with a soft rubber bush in the rear position, combined with a panhard bar or watts link. This reduces the bind and reduces that non-linear spring rate problem leaf springs have (make it handle more predictably). For the front suspension, in my study of suspension design (which is, non-professional) it seems most double wishbone sports cars are setup with the lower control arm flat (the line drawn between inner pivot and ball joint). This sets the suspension at a good roll center and reduces jacking forces. This should be doable between smaller dia tires and/or drop spindles. Obviously the torsion bars gotta go in favor of a coilover. Less so because torsion bar, more because the stock bars are soft and it's difficult/unavailable to change spring rates. Lastly, tires tires tires. You've gotta get a performance tire. The crossover SUV market has thankfully made large diameter tires available in good compounds. I think some of the pilot super sport tires are available. Or the Falken RT660 which is the current go-to autocross tire is available in a 295/40/18 with a 27.4" height. It'd look weird at current height, but if you want to really handle, you need the tire period. Ideally I think the whole truck should be much lower with a smaller dia tire, probably a notched frame, and a torque arm in the rear. Oh! And screw painting the frame. I know you can pull it off, but man that is SO not worth it to blast that whole truck apart just to resto the frame. Knock off the loose rust, treat it with phosphoric acid, and just paint it. That frame isn't that rusty. Don't scope creep your project, keep it to a fun and manageable scale, it just isn't worth it for a truck like that, it won't provide the joy that simply driving it, especially racing it, will.
When I start explaining non linear spring rate to some of my friends I see their eyes start to glaze over. He bought cal-trac bars, I tried to tell him its only a bandaid...... But he doesn't want to listen. Science and geometry make a car fast, not bandaid sticks nobody knows how to set up.
@@ryurc3033 I mean, if you want a fast car, don't start with a truck haha. I think likely he wants a fun toy more than a real performance car which is why I mentioned some of the things to help the leafs work. My understanding is that leafs can work pretty good, but stuff like urethane bushings can actually hinder them. If the goal is just to have fun, I wouldn't worry too terribly much about it, just beware of it when making chassis tuning choices like sway bars, etc. If you're drag racing my understanding is that you want the rear to stiffen up on launch, so if the caltracs do that, even if it's wrong, eh whatever. But yeah they probably don't have a high upper limit to performance.
LT, you are right on point. Very few lifted trucks see offroad time as it's more about making a fashion statement. What could be better than an all-weather vehicle with a bed that actually handles?
You should look into Eastwood products for frame jobs like that. I have used their rust encapsulator platinum and 2k aerosols for jobs like that. The product is on the expensive side, but very good. Plus you don't have all the labor of complete disassembly and reassembly. Worth the trade of in my opinion
I would really like to see the power adder on before the all wheel drive conversion. Partly because i own a 2wd with a 4.8 and im curios to see what power adder you use and what it puts down to the ground. I am also super excited to see it awd to see the power loss from the drivetrain and the difference in drag times etc. Auto cross it could be a ripper!!!
It looks like you're nearly on the bump stops, I'm sure you realize the handling issues that come from them hitting in corners. Before you c-notch this one, have you given any real consideration to an IRS? AWD with 4-wheel independent suspension would be pretty unique, not to mention effective. I think it would be sick AF.
@@Levibetz right, the 8.8 is actually a pretty durable axle. Even the aluminum housing irs units. But he could also go with a jaguar or corvette center and custom build arms etc. It's a lot of work and not cheap to go that route. But would be a awesome setup. Also, the new suburban/Tahoe has IRS. Im sure those are plenty stout for 500hp in this application, being such a light pickup.
The guys at the Speed Academy in Canukistan use a Black fluid film rust inhibitor on their frames and such. You just spay it on without much prep other than removing any clumps of dirt. Looks ok and it will wash off with a power cleaner.
LT….If you get bored with this suspension setup down the road, it would be so awesome if you put in a 3 link/coil over setup in the back and atomic fab front coil overs. That would be an great touring setup. And your ride height would be so easily adjustable. I really would like to do that on mine but I could settle for enjoying it vicariously through you for now 😆 And if you can get good results with torsion/leafs that’s also really impressive.
More great content from LT.. Nice to see people still interested in these old(er) trucks that some of us can afford.. Glad to see you're keeping the rear leaf springs.. They can be made to work well with a little work ! You may want to consider switching out the upper shock bushing that is rubber/urethane to the bearing design, its a lot better for longevity reasons on these trucks due to the increased weight of everything in the suspension (vs. a car equivalent). Just my $0.02
Awesome job. Love this project. Just a suggestion. Create a rumble account and start posting your videos on both. In case UA-cam takes a plunge. You wouldn’t want your entire livelihood to disappear.
Try brush on rust encapsulator and eastwood extreme chassis black. Looks so nice when done almost zero brush marks self levels awsome try some LT .fills blemishes well lays down like it was sprayed.
That would be some great content if you would do a tear down and rebuild frame and powder coat it. Can’t wait to see the AWD going in. Are you planning on C Notch on the short bed. Your laying bump stop almost.
Have you ever tried Inline tube for stainless steel brake lines. I’ve bought several kits for various vehicles and I’ve been really happy with the results.
Good idea on the stainless. Is the way to go in the rustbelt. Dorman makes a stainless full brakeline kit for 99 to 06. Prebent and fit surprisingly well.
You can tell he's more of a professional diyer then the rest of us (Probably the fancy TV mentality. Being he uses a torque wrench. That looked like 4-5 ugga duggas to me.😅 great content man keep it up!
Is anyone going to mention how the axle will basically be sitting on the frame once the bed is on and the truck is on all fours... I love what you're doing .... you need a c notch though
Random Q for the day. How’s the garage heater doing? Debating one for ours. How long does it take to warm up the garage? Or do you have it set on a thermostat type of deal?
You're doing the stepside the same way I'm doing with beast but I'm only lowering a couple inches and mines a 97 f150 4x4, 2.5 front 2 rear and built and nitrous 4.6 with meth injection at the fly. Both your trucks and mine when done should meet up and drag them lol, would make for a awesome video bubba.
Hey buddy did you have to change your shocks when you lowered it with just taking blocks out and changing the shackles and keys? I’ve an 03 ext 1500 that I’m wanting to lower. Thanks
what about the pinion angle? did you measure that before and after? (working angle) edit: I just saw you addressed it in the video 9:48 and with actual numbers 19:31 I was about to ask in the first video.
no, not yet. this was the same exact setup I had on UGT (minus a shorter bump stop, I need to order one of those) and it rods pretty good even being close to the frame. it only would bottom out on the biggest bumps
Hay LT I love you videos I have 03 1500Hd and I want to get some more power out of her and I am fixing to pull the engine out this summer to rebuild it because it has 350,000 On the stock engine. When.i have the engine out I won't to put a bigger cam in itbut not spend alot of money or go crazy on the power I just won't more reliable power for pulling my travel trailer and other heavy loads. I also thought about changing the gear ratio in the rear end to help with pulling just need some advice thanks in advance
I see this truck as a "what if" competitor to the old Ford Lightning. I'd build it as a full sized GMC Syclone. I'd put on the GMC front end and paint it gloss black over flat black. Use 20 inch rims from the Silverado SS with GMC center caps. Turbo or supercharged.
How did you set the proper downtravel on the rear shocks when attaching the brackets? Looks like the shocks were just extended and the suspension compressed with the wheels on top.
the wheels and tires simulate the weight of the bed, not necessarily maximum compression, so I made sure to measure from ride height how much further the suspension could compress, and I made sure to leave that much plus about a 1/4" on the shocks so when/if it does bottom out it hits the bump stop, and not the shock
I'm told you are not supposed to reuse those u bolts because they are a stretch torque to yield but I mean people have made 1000 ho reusing the stock head bolts so it will probably be fine
Looking good. Maybe a pushrod coilover rear suspension is in the stepsides future...it would be the next step for the suspension....just an idea for the future. ;-)
First off I love the channel, my question is have you ever used the drop leaf springs from Belltech/mcguardys?? Would you recommended them?? Do you see draw backs to using them?? Thanks man
i have belltech drop leafs on my OBS chevy and honestly i love them i will note though if you use it as a truck your loading capacity drastically drops. If you are brining it to the drags i would also recommend running either caltracs or a set or slapper bars
Do the adjusters have to be to the outside or could you turn the shock around and would it give more space between the shock and sway bar? Also surprised you fully welded everything before fitting the sway bar on. Not being critical just know how my builds go and never fits right the first attempt.
Gonna be honest. That brake line made me laugh. That would fine for the rest of the life of the truck where you live. That’s what lines look like after a year here in good ole west ny.
LT I don't know if you mentioned it but what are your Vikings tuned to? What click number on both knobs? I haven't gotten around to really dialing mine in but I am curious as to what you have them set at.
How many people on here might be at LS Fest West? I've never been to the west version and am wondering how it compares to East.
I am curious, if they would let you in with an 8.1 truck LOL, half the people in my group argue with me it is an LS. My brother just moved there so I may attend
ive never been to west but been to east like 6years. ive heard west doesnt compare
Last year was way too hot but the year before was perfect
@@surfssup95 y do u say this because u have no idea what u are saying. i have lived on the east coast and the west coast hands down the west coast wins we have way more classic cars they are a dime a dozen . i have a lot of rust free cars and trucks . i have 8 square body trucks that are rust free just sitting all have good clean bodies on them . my 68 pu still has factory paint and rust free got it for free same with all the pu's i have and most of my cars , i have mopars , fords and chevys only keep the rust free rigs part and scrap the rest can u say that on the east coast . i picked up a 66 gto for 500 bucks drove it to ny and got 6,500 out of it in 10 min. . i use to do this a lot and made a lot of money off the east coast . right now i have a easy million worth of just project rigs sitting in my back yard got most for free i have 10 acres just for project rigs and i am not the only one either we have many places like this .just one ranch give me a 79 short box 4x4 400 sbc with 400 turbo with under 35,000 original miles in mint condition 67 rs ss 427 camaro 68 ss 396 camaro 2 79 z28's the 67 was half restored then outside the shop i got 15 pu's all in good shape just needed engine work . i picked up my 70 high boy with a 390 dana 60/80 lockers rust free tool box on side ranger with extra parts like front clip doors chrome trim and lights for 250 bucks . then what i know that is just laying around all over the place . just like i got a bunch of new panels like floor pan rocker panels cab corner that was given to me but don't need them even got a 68 air condition cab for a chevy rust free just sitting in the dirt . does this help u to understand the difference from east coast and west coast
@jeffrey hollenbeck lol i didnt even bother reading your long comment. Im just saying that ls fest east has been going on for ovet 10 years and so alot more people come then west which just started 2 years ago
I'm a ford guy, but you are building some killer rigs. I prefer this format so much more. I remember when Stacy left trucks how po'd I was. Then again when Ian left extreme. it's great you guys all post content here now. Much easier to access and I feel like you get to communicate things that truly matter. Keep on doing your thing man, and I'll keep watching.
Brake lines pop every day here in Minnesota. In my 4 years as a tech ive done 30+ brake line jobs on 99-06 chevys. Very know to pop behind the fuel tank, along the axle or right under the floor behind the LF cab mount.
I pop them out of the plastic clip if they are still good. That one plastic clip that holds it to the frame by the cab mount gets all of em.
I live in then Olivia willmar area in Minnesota 👍
Yep they go just like clockwork 🤣
I'm in Indiana so I see a lot these also. Been a tech 5 years and done countless line jobs on these trucks. Lol
I like how he calls that rusty. 😏go hang out under michigan trucks🤣🤣 I've seen some things man.
Those factory wheels look excellent, right at home. There are so many ugly aftermarket options out there, so often the factory offers the best choice.
Where were you 2 years ago when I put a 2/4 drop on my gmc pickup. It would shake at highway speed. I used a 4 degree shim then I went to a 6 degree until the shaking went away. Love the progress on your trucks 👍
The first time I used a plasma cutter to remove the factory rivets from the spring hanger I wondered how I did it any other way. They are so cheap anymore. I use my grinder less than half as much as before. I love what your building, my dream is to take a 99 olds bravada and graft the awd setup onto a 72 chevelle that I bought (crashed in the front bad enough I have to do something no matter what). I love the awd v8 street machine built from the GM parts bin leftovers kinda vibe.
I love your content Lawrence, I look forward to watching your videos every time.
I love the look of this truck. I've always been a fan of the idea of a true AWD street machine and you have nailed it so far
Thanks a ton!
A few notes I'm sure you've already had in mind, but just to be sure. Leaf springs bind under roll conditions, and so actually can act as their own sway bar. By adding a rear sway with a very soft front, the truck will likely be very oversteer prone right now. Stiffening up the front with coilovers and a bigger sway will help a lot. I've also heard of leaf spring performance being improved by retrofitting a spherical bearing in the bushing position with a soft rubber bush in the rear position, combined with a panhard bar or watts link. This reduces the bind and reduces that non-linear spring rate problem leaf springs have (make it handle more predictably). For the front suspension, in my study of suspension design (which is, non-professional) it seems most double wishbone sports cars are setup with the lower control arm flat (the line drawn between inner pivot and ball joint). This sets the suspension at a good roll center and reduces jacking forces. This should be doable between smaller dia tires and/or drop spindles. Obviously the torsion bars gotta go in favor of a coilover. Less so because torsion bar, more because the stock bars are soft and it's difficult/unavailable to change spring rates. Lastly, tires tires tires. You've gotta get a performance tire. The crossover SUV market has thankfully made large diameter tires available in good compounds. I think some of the pilot super sport tires are available. Or the Falken RT660 which is the current go-to autocross tire is available in a 295/40/18 with a 27.4" height. It'd look weird at current height, but if you want to really handle, you need the tire period. Ideally I think the whole truck should be much lower with a smaller dia tire, probably a notched frame, and a torque arm in the rear.
Oh! And screw painting the frame. I know you can pull it off, but man that is SO not worth it to blast that whole truck apart just to resto the frame. Knock off the loose rust, treat it with phosphoric acid, and just paint it. That frame isn't that rusty. Don't scope creep your project, keep it to a fun and manageable scale, it just isn't worth it for a truck like that, it won't provide the joy that simply driving it, especially racing it, will.
When I start explaining non linear spring rate to some of my friends I see their eyes start to glaze over. He bought cal-trac bars, I tried to tell him its only a bandaid...... But he doesn't want to listen. Science and geometry make a car fast, not bandaid sticks nobody knows how to set up.
@@ryurc3033 I mean, if you want a fast car, don't start with a truck haha. I think likely he wants a fun toy more than a real performance car which is why I mentioned some of the things to help the leafs work. My understanding is that leafs can work pretty good, but stuff like urethane bushings can actually hinder them. If the goal is just to have fun, I wouldn't worry too terribly much about it, just beware of it when making chassis tuning choices like sway bars, etc. If you're drag racing my understanding is that you want the rear to stiffen up on launch, so if the caltracs do that, even if it's wrong, eh whatever. But yeah they probably don't have a high upper limit to performance.
LT, you are right on point. Very few lifted trucks see offroad time as it's more about making a fashion statement. What could be better than an all-weather vehicle with a bed that actually handles?
Being on Power nation , I feel like it helped you nail these videos bro. You really show it all.
You should look into Eastwood products for frame jobs like that. I have used their rust encapsulator platinum and 2k aerosols for jobs like that. The product is on the expensive side, but very good. Plus you don't have all the labor of complete disassembly and reassembly. Worth the trade of in my opinion
I would really like to see the power adder on before the all wheel drive conversion. Partly because i own a 2wd with a 4.8 and im curios to see what power adder you use and what it puts down to the ground. I am also super excited to see it awd to see the power loss from the drivetrain and the difference in drag times etc. Auto cross it could be a ripper!!!
Intro is SPOT ON!!
keep this format, LT
When I was your age, the idea of a 700 hp anything was madness. A 400hp corvette was a world shaker!
How the times have changed.
I was just wondering how happy are your neighbors, having you thrash on your rides, just wanted to know if you had any funny stories.
Thanks again LT
Great job LT, nice to see high quality work👍😀
It doesn’t matter to me what make or model truck you’re working on, love them all, thanks for the videos 👍😁
Glad you like them!
Clean install! Love how the sway bar set in there
it worked out pretty nicely!
It looks like you're nearly on the bump stops, I'm sure you realize the handling issues that come from them hitting in corners. Before you c-notch this one, have you given any real consideration to an IRS?
AWD with 4-wheel independent suspension would be pretty unique, not to mention effective. I think it would be sick AF.
The 2000s explorers had a IRS with a 8.8 that could work good. Expeditions have a wider IRS too. One of those may be the right track.
@@Levibetz I doubt he would use Ford parts though.
@@SurlyMike If you're not using junkyard ford diffs, you're wrong haha
@@Levibetz right, the 8.8 is actually a pretty durable axle. Even the aluminum housing irs units. But he could also go with a jaguar or corvette center and custom build arms etc. It's a lot of work and not cheap to go that route. But would be a awesome setup. Also, the new suburban/Tahoe has IRS. Im sure those are plenty stout for 500hp in this application, being such a light pickup.
The guys at the Speed Academy in Canukistan use a Black fluid film rust inhibitor on their frames and such.
You just spay it on without much prep other than removing any clumps of dirt. Looks ok and it will wash off with a power cleaner.
(Reffering to the thumbnail) A car that brings joy can never be ruined ;)
agreed!
Hope to see you here soon in Vegas for LSFest
LT….If you get bored with this suspension setup down the road, it would be so awesome if you put in a 3 link/coil over setup in the back and atomic fab front coil overs. That would be an great touring setup. And your ride height would be so easily adjustable.
I really would like to do that on mine but I could settle for enjoying it vicariously through you for now 😆
And if you can get good results with torsion/leafs that’s also really impressive.
More great content from LT..
Nice to see people still interested in these old(er) trucks that some of us can afford.. Glad to see you're keeping the rear leaf springs.. They can be made to work well with a little work !
You may want to consider switching out the upper shock bushing that is rubber/urethane to the bearing design, its a lot better for longevity reasons on these trucks due to the increased weight of everything in the suspension (vs. a car equivalent). Just my $0.02
That truck is coming along very nicely LT. Well done.
Great job on the install! The only thing I would note is make sure the upper shock brackets arent pointed up too much or they will hit the bed.
Yup, made sure to measure the rise on em, should have about a half inch of clearance before the bed floor
Cool build. I’m in the process of doing an awd turbo Sierra rcsb myself, I’m using an Escalade as my donor vehicle. Thanks for the videos.
Awesome job. Love this project. Just a suggestion. Create a rumble account and start posting your videos on both. In case UA-cam takes a plunge. You wouldn’t want your entire livelihood to disappear.
I like that fuel pump/hotwire kit. I run both on my 4.3L V6.
Love the videos man… just bought another 99-06 truck and love watching these videos
I'm in love with this build
Can’t wait to see this truck on the track!
Love the videos LT. That truck is gonna be so much fun. Can't wait to see the finished product.
thanks! I cant wait to get it on the ground
Try brush on rust encapsulator and eastwood extreme chassis black. Looks so nice when done almost zero brush marks self levels awsome try some LT .fills blemishes well lays down like it was sprayed.
That would be some great content if you would do a tear down and rebuild frame and powder coat it. Can’t wait to see the AWD going in. Are you planning on C Notch on the short bed. Your laying bump stop almost.
I may C notch it down the road, I'll see how it performs like this first though... if anything a shorter bump stop will get me by in the meantime
Have watched you for years, love the work. Really like the music choices.
appreciated!
Hell yeah thanks for the videos you make sir. Learn lots from you
Put a energy suspension poly trans mount in & then shim. Should be more solid & consistent for the drive angles.
It's looking good at least your crunching the numbers. God bless you and as always be safe 👍
North Maine Steve looks sweet love the new wheels
This truck is beautiful. An awd 6.0 is my dream.
They make split collars that clamp onto sway bars to keeps them from shifting side to side. I know whiteline makes some.
Good call on that! I’ll have to get a set
So you know ram 2020 and up have 6x5.5 I just put the limited 22s on my 11silverado. It’s slammed notched, Vikings, tubular uppers. Turbo is next
I'm stoked!
Have you ever tried Inline tube for stainless steel brake lines. I’ve bought several kits for various vehicles and I’ve been really happy with the results.
I havent tried those guys yet, but worth a shot!
Good idea on the stainless. Is the way to go in the rustbelt. Dorman makes a stainless full brakeline kit for 99 to 06. Prebent and fit surprisingly well.
I try to thumbs up and comment on most your videos.
Get you bumped up in the yes algorithm.
I think you should run a track bar if you’re worried about the shock hitting the sway bar
You can tell he's more of a professional diyer then the rest of us (Probably the fancy TV mentality. Being he uses a torque wrench. That looked like 4-5 ugga duggas to me.😅 great content man keep it up!
Should do a 4link rear suspension on the step side, it’ll be good content with all the custom fab work and have better handling and customization
Is anyone going to mention how the axle will basically be sitting on the frame once the bed is on and the truck is on all fours... I love what you're doing .... you need a c notch though
Very interesting video. Thanks LT.
Glad you enjoyed it
Random Q for the day. How’s the garage heater doing? Debating one for ours. How long does it take to warm up the garage? Or do you have it set on a thermostat type of deal?
This is an awesome Build
Can’t wait to see this truck AWD!!
Where does he get those wonderful toys? I scoter the interweb daily seeking short box step side reg cab and usually only see OBs’s going for $20K.
You should take a look at VHT wheel and VHT chassis paint.
Do the shocks have to be on the same side?
Put a Dana 60 (spring under) under a 81 Cherokee chief, and was just wondering..
You're doing the stepside the same way I'm doing with beast but I'm only lowering a couple inches and mines a 97 f150 4x4, 2.5 front 2 rear and built and nitrous 4.6 with meth injection at the fly. Both your trucks and mine when done should meet up and drag them lol, would make for a awesome video bubba.
the video length to content ratio is very high in this one. nice job with the editing!
Much appreciated!
See you at LS fest!
it'll be fun!
Do you still have that billet grille that came with the stepside? I don't see it on the stepside anymore
I can't see if you got a link for the front hangers. I need to get that set for my truck. If you could send me a link I would be grateful
Hey buddy did you have to change your shocks when you lowered it with just taking blocks out and changing the shackles and keys? I’ve an 03 ext 1500 that I’m wanting to lower. Thanks
One thing with your trucks, no bolts will ever get rusty lol always changing your mind and parts
thats always a plus lol
@@LawrenceTolman I do the same lol
How did you take the angle measurements for the trans/drive shaft/differential?
Love all your videos
So what do we think the power adder is going to be? Procharger? Magnuson blower? I can't wait to find out.
what about the pinion angle? did you measure that before and after?
(working angle)
edit: I just saw you addressed it in the video 9:48
and with actual numbers 19:31
I was about to ask in the first video.
You need a good air chisel for those rivets. Even a Harbor Freight long barrel version will make your job way easier.
yeah, that would make the job a whole lot quicker
Why not just a flip kit on the rear? I’m not a fan of the shackle/hanger kit.
because I didn't wanna go too low since the CV angles up front would get a bit too steep for my liking up front
Looks great. Are you thinking of c notching like the ugly truck for more uptravel ?
I’m wondering the same thing?
no, not yet. this was the same exact setup I had on UGT (minus a shorter bump stop, I need to order one of those) and it rods pretty good even being close to the frame. it only would bottom out on the biggest bumps
I have a question about that rear sway bar was it worth buying
I would shim the diff. Not sure how much room you'll have to go up when you go 80e.
Hay LT I love you videos I have 03 1500Hd and I want to get some more power out of her and I am fixing to pull the engine out this summer to rebuild it because it has 350,000
On the stock engine. When.i have the engine out I won't to put a bigger cam in itbut not spend alot of money or go crazy on the power I just won't more reliable power for pulling my travel trailer and other heavy loads. I also thought about changing the gear ratio in the rear end to help with pulling just need some advice thanks in advance
A C5/C6 IRS conversation would be cool
You could always spin the shock base 180* and still reach knobs.
Good point!
I see this truck as a "what if" competitor to the old Ford Lightning. I'd build it as a full sized GMC Syclone. I'd put on the GMC front end and paint it gloss black over flat black. Use 20 inch rims from the Silverado SS with GMC center caps. Turbo or supercharged.
thats a good idea, kinda what I'm going for
I'd really like to see you doing a running total or hours and money you have have into the trucks love your videos
I’d probably have a heart attack if I added all that up lol…
Very cool videos 👍, curious... does it matter at all if you move the shocks to the same side of the axle as opposed to the way GM staggered them?
How did you set the proper downtravel on the rear shocks when attaching the brackets?
Looks like the shocks were just extended and the suspension compressed with the wheels on top.
the wheels and tires simulate the weight of the bed, not necessarily maximum compression, so I made sure to measure from ride height how much further the suspension could compress, and I made sure to leave that much plus about a 1/4" on the shocks so when/if it does bottom out it hits the bump stop, and not the shock
I'm told you are not supposed to reuse those u bolts because they are a stretch torque to yield but I mean people have made 1000 ho reusing the stock head bolts so it will probably be fine
Looking good. Maybe a pushrod coilover rear suspension is in the stepsides future...it would be the next step for the suspension....just an idea for the future. ;-)
now you're talking! that would be awesome
Glad to see you fixed the brake line the right way and not use the Scotty Kilmer approved compression fittings
Hopefully you won't have to change pinion angle, that would really effect the lower shock mount
very true, that would get affected as well
First off I love the channel, my question is have you ever used the drop leaf springs from Belltech/mcguardys?? Would you recommended them?? Do you see draw backs to using them?? Thanks man
i have belltech drop leafs on my OBS chevy and honestly i love them i will note though if you use it as a truck your loading capacity drastically drops. If you are brining it to the drags i would also recommend running either caltracs or a set or slapper bars
Do the adjusters have to be to the outside or could you turn the shock around and would it give more space between the shock and sway bar? Also surprised you fully welded everything before fitting the sway bar on. Not being critical just know how my builds go and never fits right the first attempt.
I think they could be turned around, and yeah, I should've test fit everything before burning it in
Link for more info on checking drivetrain angles?
Gonna be honest. That brake line made me laugh. That would fine for the rest of the life of the truck where you live. That’s what lines look like after a year here in good ole west ny.
Great Video
Dude you are a beast!
Yess
What size tires do you have on the truck
Where did you get the hangars I need more on mine. got 2500 shackles on rear and need more and those look lower than mine
Also wondering what brand the hangers are?
I just added the link to the description, they're belltech amzn.to/3AL6M3F
Your not gonna clean it up and paint it since the bed is off?
No rear c notch?
LT I don't know if you mentioned it but what are your Vikings tuned to? What click number on both knobs? I haven't gotten around to really dialing mine in but I am curious as to what you have them set at.
I just set em to the baseline for “comfort” provided in the Viking instructions. Haven’t even driven it enough to start dialing it in.
@@LawrenceTolman even on the ext cab?
LT, what are your plans for baffling options in the fuel tank?
Will you be coming to LS fast in September this year to auto cross
not sure if I'll get to bowling green, but am planning on doing Vegas in april
Made it better. How many people really use 4x4? AWD is used every day.