I love your channel! I’m building a kinda copycat version of that project red tide truck… I always wanted to build an awd truck ever since I was a kid reading about the cyclone and tsunami… when I saw red tide it pushed me to start the transformation on my dads old 92k1500 that he left me after he passed… I started by blasting and painting the frame and engine bay and doing the bell tech flip kit…
My dude, thank you for making this video. I’ve been gun-shy about doing my own re-gearing. This video really helps me know what to do for mine. 1000x thank you.
Thanks LT, I learned something about backlash measurement from drive flange. Good job and thanks for showing steps of work; like math class, it shows how you got the answer, not just assembly! Props!
First. Nice work. I build some ring & pinion style gearbox actuator assemblies almost daily for the Army. That feel of the backlash/endplay was something I learned pretty quickly, I hardly ever use the dial indicators anymore, just for re-assurance occasionally.
I am really enjoying the builds on both these trucks! Love that you don't skip over the problems/adversity that everyone is always faced with during these projects. Great videos that are helping others. Nice job LT! 👍
Hi LT, Nice tutorial on setting up IFS diffs. Good tip too on using the setup bearing while determining pinion depth. That kind of seemed like a black art to get the depth right while needing to press on and off the bearing when finding the right shim thickness, along with not destroying the bearing. Using a setup bearing makes that process much easier. Thanks for the video! -mike
In the good old days you needed to bed a pinion and ring gear in together. This is similar to lapping in valves and uses a special grinding paste. You would do all the steps to build the diff then put the paste on the gears and spin the diff for about twenty minutes with a slight load at about twenty rpm. Pull it all apart clean it thoroughly junk the bearings and assemble it again and redo all the checks.
Nice job. My Silvy SS came with the carrier bearing too tight from the general and ate themselves alive. Had to change them at 60k. Good call on a looser preload! Wish I had this video to go by when I did mine 10 years ago. Keep making this content. Love the AWD.
good video. my front and rear end both need rebuilt just need some of the tools to do so. After watching this little series on re-gearing I'm a bit more confident in my ability to do it too.
LT, very good video. Meticulous job! Detailed path and explanation on the process! I learned a lot! I have bookmarked this video for my future use :) you did great job making this! Enjoyed every bit of it! I look forward to many more videos of your continued success in series of ugly truck and step side! Many many thumbs up 👍 👌. 1000/1000 !!
Jeez LT! Shewwwww I read the listing and thought, “ohh nooooo” bc I’ve already purchased the t/c and front diff. I was glad to find out you were just playing lol
Hey Lt just a tip ive learned to remove bearings. Use your tig torch to heat up one spot on the race cherry red about the size of a nickel. Then take a sharp chisel and hit it perpendicular to the race a few good times it will slide off. Cuts down on the grinder dust. And no chance of a slip or getting to deep
I have the 7.25IFS out of my Blazer ZR2 that I have all new parts for and an LSD, and converting it to an AWD setup as well. Good job and great info, gear pattern looks good from here.
Nice job, if you want a quicker way to get the bearings off though, look at some videos where they run a bead of weld around the bearings. It usually works for me👍🏽
Cutting bearings is a bit risky as you can damage the surface underneath an alternate method that you can try first is to strike the bearings with a hammer as if you’re trying to flatten them. Do it lightly to break the seat against the surface if you’re going to use a puller, or harder as if you’re trying to shatter the bearings if you’re trying to use a drift to remove the bearings. Doing this usually makes the bearings fall off but not always. The retaining ring on the axle shaft is not that important , it’s not like the axle is going to jump out without it. Unless you snap a stub axle or destroy a CV Joint then there’s a possibility it might get pulled out.
I was just researching limited slips on the IFS setup too. As far as I got there was some Toyota options, but overall not a good idea as its too much tension on the tierods with both wheels powered.
Super interesting as always. So the bearing side carrier bearing race is a slip fit and preload is adjusted with those jacking screws? Wow. Be interested to see how they hold up
Limited slip fronts on AWD *must* work, look at the Audis and anything else nowadays w/ torque vectoring on the front half of an AWD setup. Not sure if there's something specific to the 1500, or something specifically about lockers, which make them unsafe for dragging
Have you looked at the 2500 front diff is it at all posable to fit??? in 1500??? and saw an other video and if you do this in an 90's body like your last job build of AWD you can swap right side long axel tube and would not have to fab mount?? they said all front are the same except that???
With that front diff being open won't you lose power to both front wheels when one slips? A true AWD system would transfer power to the wheel with traction I would think.
@LT I like the idea of lowering and converting a 4x4 to AWD. Although I once owned a 1995 4x4 Blazer, yet all of this stuff about transfer cases front independent differentials are something I am just now beginning the understand better. I have learned a lot from watching your videos here, as well as the "Red Tie" build when you were with a previous employer. In this video you mentioned about limited slip differential, and that one is not made for the GM 8.2" IFS differential. You mentioned another size diff that was used in a 3/4 ton truck, could this front diff be used in a 1/2 ton truck with an AWD? If so, then exactly what difference would the limited slip do which the setup up that your current setup will or will not do? In the past I had wondered if both front and rear differentials used limited slip, with the factory 4x4 (2H, 4L, 4H) transfer case. With such a setup, would this allow for driving full time in 4H, as well as shifting to 4L as needed with highway driving? Just wanted to understand these things. Thank you, and looking forward to watching more of your videos. -Rob
The weak point in most differentials is the spider gears not the ring gear. Usually a larger ring gear means larger spider gears so a stronger diff but not always. A 10” diff might have the same spiders as a 7” or it may just be a piece of crap. A 7” diff could be nearly as strong or stronger than a 10” especially if fitted with a spool or Torsten lsd centre. A bigger diff usually means bigger axles as well however.
Another great video. What solvent do you use in your parts washer. I bought one used and the solvent in it ate all the paint off to that level. Clogging the pump filter too.
@@CVPI03 I guess Lt and the rest of us will find out if its weak,or if it holds up too over 500hp LT is about too throw at it..9.25 is more for 3/4(2500)4wd trucks...
Do you have a part number for that torque wrench??? Been wanting to get one for a while and the tool guys could never find one. Thanks in advance awesome videos
What is the benefit to going AWD over 4 wheel drive (when in 4 high)? I feel like it would be better to be able to go into 2 wheel drive when 4 x 4 isn't needed.
LT, do you have a link for a factory type service manual for the GM IFS differential? Maybe I'm not looking good enough but I'm having a hard time finding one.
Hey man I have a question I what do you recommend or know to improve my 4x4 in my z71 1500 2003 Chevy Silverado when I get into sand in Utah Sand Hallow lol ? Hope to hear back from you TNA
@@LawrenceTolman On a gm diagram parts list i didnt see where gm listed any gaskets..i know they use some kind of nasa fomulated sealant..lol (anaerobic sealant ) usually its the grey sealant but i think most people use the black for everything sonetimes orange..maybe do a video just on sealants LT😂
Great video, I am getting ready to re-gear from 3.73. to 4.56 this weekend. A question ... If my IFS does NOT have a gasket and I want to use one, I would assume thats ok as long as I use it as part of the backlash adjustment? I am also looking to use a shaft tube gasket as well . . I hate leaks.
as long as the housing is torqued properly to "squish" the gasket, I see no reason why you couldn't use one... for what it worth though that anaerobic sealant I used is holding up amazingly
LT, thanks for the advice - the gasket didn’t fit ( 2007>) so I went without and no leak! Your video was a great asset to complete my regear this weekend and it was a success! It took a bit to get the Lash in - ended up a bit over 7 ,,, You rock
PLEASE HELP!!! Swapping a 4l80e into a 2005 chevy tahoe. Doing an all wheel drive swap also. I have an 02 Yukon Denali AWD front diff, also doing 4.30 gears to match the rear gears. My question is regarding hooking up the np149 transfercase to the 4l80. I know I need the 32 spline adapter in the transfercase. What I don't know is what size spacer I need from the 4l80 to the transfercase. I am eagerly waiting for you to reply, figured you'd know best.
It takes the same 4l80 rear adapter housing as a 4x4 transfer case of the same era. And Tim at Modern Muscle Salvage can sell the 32 spline input for the nv149
@@LawrenceTolman So would I tell Jake's Performance transmission to give me the 4x4 transfercase adapter for a 2005 chevy 2500 4l80? Edit: reread your reply, yes is probably your answer.
Do the pinion shims also affect backlash or is that adjusted in a different way if it is out of spec? If it is the latter how do you adjust the backlash?
the backlash is adjusted by moving the carrier side to side, either with shims or the threaded sided adjusters in this case. but yes, if you move the pinion depth it will throw off the backlash, so anytime you adjust the pinion, the carrier must be adjusted as well
I think people are worried about the truck steering into the wall with an LSD because of torque steer. I personally think torque steer is only a real consideration in high HP FWD vehicles, but with an AWD vehicle of that weight with only about 35% of the power to the front wheels you should be ok, but it will be present, especially when you start getting towards 900-1000hp.
Not just torque steer but it'll make the truck push when it locks hard. 1st year of the sti in the states had a pretty aggressive front limited slip. It was noticeable if you were under throttle through a turn
I think the best you can get is an LSD unit... I know Bully Racing makes them for the 7.25 diff in the SyTys and TBBS/9-7x Aero. Not sure if they do the 8.5, but worth an ask of them.
Jeez LT! Shewwwww I read the listing and thought, “ohh nooooo” bc I’ve already purchased the t/c and front diff. I was glad to find out you were just playing lol
One major step closer to finishing the AWD Conversion!
Who is your camera person when you have the panning shots and things of you? I love the channel!
So how do you put the c-clips in with it all put together do you put them in through that large access hole?
I really liked this idea when you did it for PN and am happy to see you’re able to build one your own.
I love your channel! I’m building a kinda copycat version of that project red tide truck… I always wanted to build an awd truck ever since I was a kid reading about the cyclone and tsunami… when I saw red tide it pushed me to start the transformation on my dads old 92k1500 that he left me after he passed… I started by blasting and painting the frame and engine bay and doing the bell tech flip kit…
@@chevygang5226
They are already installed in the spider gears.
My dude, thank you for making this video. I’ve been gun-shy about doing my own re-gearing. This video really helps me know what to do for mine. 1000x thank you.
Glad I could help!
Did you follow through with re-gearing? I’m thinking of doing it too, but I’m very hesitant on it
21:00 the look of precision and then comes in with a hammer lmao I don't know why I found that funny
Thanks LT, I learned something about backlash measurement from drive flange. Good job and thanks for showing steps of work; like math class, it shows how you got the answer, not just assembly! Props!
This is why I hire guys like you to do gear work. LOL looks great!
First. Nice work. I build some ring & pinion style gearbox actuator assemblies almost daily for the Army. That feel of the backlash/endplay was something I learned pretty quickly, I hardly ever use the dial indicators anymore, just for re-assurance occasionally.
You got to be the first guy to rebuild an IfS front differential as everyone just goes to buy a junkyard or big distributor offshore rebuilds.
I am really enjoying the builds on both these trucks! Love that you don't skip over the problems/adversity that everyone is always faced with during these projects. Great videos that are helping others. Nice job LT! 👍
Glad you like them!
Hi LT,
Nice tutorial on setting up IFS diffs. Good tip too on using the setup bearing while determining pinion depth. That kind of seemed like a black art to get the depth right while needing to press on and off the bearing when finding the right shim thickness, along with not destroying the bearing. Using a setup bearing makes that process much easier. Thanks for the video!
-mike
well thanks for watching it! much appreciated
This truck is going to be so cool when it's done you need to paint it and style it like one of the old typhoons/cyclones
Brother I just spent the last two days catching up on everything since New Year. I’m loving the progress!! Keep it up!
In the good old days you needed to bed a pinion and ring gear in together. This is similar to lapping in valves and uses a special grinding paste. You would do all the steps to build the diff then put the paste on the gears and spin the diff for about twenty minutes with a slight load at about twenty rpm. Pull it all apart clean it thoroughly junk the bearings and assemble it again and redo all the checks.
These videos keep getting better!! can’t wait to see how this comes together!!
Seems like a great project. Anything using the press is satisfying. Thanks LT.
Nice job. My Silvy SS came with the carrier bearing too tight from the general and ate themselves alive. Had to change them at 60k. Good call on a looser preload! Wish I had this video to go by when I did mine 10 years ago. Keep making this content. Love the AWD.
Thanks for the info!
Getting closer & closer to more (treadless Truckin') LT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Things are coming along nicely LT. I look forward to your weekly videos. I’ve been building a 72 C10 for the past 10 years.
Wow LT, you really know your stuff. Very impressed...
I appreciate that!
good video. my front and rear end both need rebuilt just need some of the tools to do so. After watching this little series on re-gearing I'm a bit more confident in my ability to do it too.
LT, very good video. Meticulous job! Detailed path and explanation on the process! I learned a lot! I have bookmarked this video for my future use :) you did great job making this! Enjoyed every bit of it! I look forward to many more videos of your continued success in series of ugly truck and step side! Many many thumbs up 👍 👌. 1000/1000 !!
thanks for watching it!
You’re a sharp guy LT! Learned a lot!
Jeez LT! Shewwwww I read the listing and thought, “ohh nooooo” bc I’ve already purchased the t/c and front diff. I was glad to find out you were just playing lol
Looking good keep it up and before long it will be up and running and will be having fun. As always be safe 👍
Hey Lt just a tip ive learned to remove bearings. Use your tig torch to heat up one spot on the race cherry red about the size of a nickel. Then take a sharp chisel and hit it perpendicular to the race a few good times it will slide off. Cuts down on the grinder dust. And no chance of a slip or getting to deep
You make this stuff look easy. It's awesome.
Thank you! Cheers!
I have the 7.25IFS out of my Blazer ZR2 that I have all new parts for and an LSD, and converting it to an AWD setup as well. Good job and great info, gear pattern looks good from here.
Where did you get the LSD unit for a 7.25 diff ?
This is gonna be sick... when you super charger shows up it would be nice to hear about it and what we are anticipating out of it
when it does get here, we'll give a whole unboxing and review as well as the install process
I do remember the H3 Hummer offered a front differential lock although I do not know if it would fit.
Nice job, if you want a quicker way to get the bearings off though, look at some videos where they run a bead of weld around the bearings. It usually works for me👍🏽
that would work as well, a little heat will loosen em up
This is complicated stuff, you did it better than a local shop
Thanks LT.I learned a lot from you.🔧👌
Great videos, the vieos have a great calming effect for me and are very informative. Keep up the awesome job.
Anxiously waiting for AWD launches!
me too!
Good info on measuring backlash 👍
I would be curious to check the difference in backlash on a standard rear axle. Compare measuring the pinion vs the ring gear.
Learning more, thanks for your time, great video 👍👍
More to come!
Cutting bearings is a bit risky as you can damage the surface underneath an alternate method that you can try first is to strike the bearings with a hammer as if you’re trying to flatten them.
Do it lightly to break the seat against the surface if you’re going to use a puller, or harder as if you’re trying to shatter the bearings if you’re trying to use a drift to remove the bearings.
Doing this usually makes the bearings fall off but not always.
The retaining ring on the axle shaft is not that important , it’s not like the axle is going to jump out without it.
Unless you snap a stub axle or destroy a CV Joint then there’s a possibility it might get pulled out.
Good Job front diffs are tuff some time
Very nice Mr. Redhead!!! Keep up with the great content!!
Thank you kindly
I was just researching limited slips on the IFS setup too. As far as I got there was some Toyota options, but overall not a good idea as its too much tension on the tierods with both wheels powered.
Awesome video, I have an Lsa
Yay I was waiting for a video of yours lol
Great video LT!!
Super interesting as always. So the bearing side carrier bearing race is a slip fit and preload is adjusted with those jacking screws? Wow. Be interested to see how they hold up
Limited slip fronts on AWD *must* work, look at the Audis and anything else nowadays w/ torque vectoring on the front half of an AWD setup. Not sure if there's something specific to the 1500, or something specifically about lockers, which make them unsafe for dragging
Nicely done!
Another great video thank you for the upload
Have you looked at the 2500 front diff is it at all posable to fit??? in 1500??? and saw an other video and if you do this in an 90's body like your last job build of AWD you can swap right side long axel tube and would not have to fab mount?? they said all front are the same except that???
You’d have to swap the axle tube as well as the spider gear to make sure the pass side axle would hold into the housing
With that front diff being open won't you lose power to both front wheels when one slips? A true AWD system would transfer power to the wheel with traction I would think.
@LT I like the idea of lowering and converting a 4x4 to AWD. Although I once owned a 1995 4x4 Blazer, yet all of this stuff about transfer cases front independent differentials are something I am just now beginning the understand better. I have learned a lot from watching your videos here, as well as the "Red Tie" build when you were with a previous employer.
In this video you mentioned about limited slip differential, and that one is not made for the GM 8.2" IFS differential. You mentioned another size diff that was used in a 3/4 ton truck, could this front diff be used in a 1/2 ton truck with an AWD? If so, then exactly what difference would the limited slip do which the setup up that your current setup will or will not do?
In the past I had wondered if both front and rear differentials used limited slip, with the factory 4x4 (2H, 4L, 4H) transfer case. With such a setup, would this allow for driving full time in 4H, as well as shifting to 4L as needed with highway driving?
Just wanted to understand these things.
Thank you, and looking forward to watching more of your videos.
-Rob
The weak point in most differentials is the spider gears not the ring gear.
Usually a larger ring gear means larger spider gears so a stronger diff but not always.
A 10” diff might have the same spiders as a 7” or it may just be a piece of crap.
A 7” diff could be nearly as strong or stronger than a 10” especially if fitted with a spool or Torsten lsd centre.
A bigger diff usually means bigger axles as well however.
Wouldn’t you multiply the reading on the pinion yoke by 2? It’s a smaller diameter than the ring gear.
Another great video. What solvent do you use in your parts washer. I bought one used and the solvent in it ate all the paint off to that level. Clogging the pump filter too.
I use the tractor supply parts cleaner solvent. about $50 for a 5 gallon bucket
Excellent thank you for the great video series and thank you for the reply.
Thanks LT
You bet
What size socket did you use for the side adjusters and size of metal.
Definitely going to have to make one of this.
Love your videos 📹 ❤️
Great work finding the axle issue. Where did you get your vice? Looks like it mounts in a hitch mount?
Thank you Well done.
Glad to see those new locks, lol
yup, dealer in town had em for about a buck and a half each
Wish they could hold up with a limited slip in them
They dont make a limited slip diff..
@@dalehall2993 that’s correct case is to weak, that’s why im planning on swapping to a 9.25 3/4 IFS case on my obs yukon
@@CVPI03
I guess Lt and the rest of us will find out if its weak,or if it holds up too over 500hp LT is about too throw at it..9.25 is more for 3/4(2500)4wd trucks...
I thought you were supposed to change the backlash and tooth pattern by the adjuster bearings or are there two ways you can do it?
Do you have a part number for that torque wrench??? Been wanting to get one for a while and the tool guys could never find one. Thanks in advance awesome videos
What is the benefit to going AWD over 4 wheel drive (when in 4 high)? I feel like it would be better to be able to go into 2 wheel drive when 4 x 4 isn't needed.
So was there any need for housing modification installing 4.30 gears?
Can't wait to see the 4wd burnouts and doughnuts
its gonna be fun to try for sure
@@LawrenceTolman
Try and take out a factory axle or cv shaft!👍🏻
LT, do you have a link for a factory type service manual for the GM IFS differential? Maybe I'm not looking good enough but I'm having a hard time finding one.
Still no info on the power adder type, how much longer do we have to wait LT?
Paint it !!!!!!
Hey man I have a question I what do you recommend or know to improve my 4x4 in my z71 1500 2003 Chevy Silverado when I get into sand in Utah Sand Hallow lol ?
Hope to hear back from you TNA
Why use rtv for the mating surfaces vs gaskets?
thats a great question. I don't know if they even make a gasket to be honest
@@LawrenceTolman just curious. I know some people prefer gaskets and some use rtv. I was just curious if there's one better?
@@LawrenceTolman
On a gm diagram parts list i didnt see where gm listed any gaskets..i know they use some kind of nasa fomulated sealant..lol (anaerobic sealant ) usually its the grey sealant but i think most people use the black for everything sonetimes orange..maybe do a video just on sealants LT😂
is there a reason why no posi; if so, what is the reason?
addressed it in the video, but nobody makes one
Great video, I am getting ready to re-gear from 3.73. to 4.56 this weekend. A question ... If my IFS does NOT have a gasket and I want to use one, I would assume thats ok as long as I use it as part of the backlash adjustment? I am also looking to use a shaft tube gasket as well . . I hate leaks.
as long as the housing is torqued properly to "squish" the gasket, I see no reason why you couldn't use one... for what it worth though that anaerobic sealant I used is holding up amazingly
LT, thanks for the advice - the gasket didn’t fit ( 2007>) so I went without and no leak! Your video was a great asset to complete my regear this weekend and it was a success! It took a bit to get the Lash in - ended up a bit over 7 ,,, You rock
great video ....
Are you going to be putting caltracs on it at some point?
Nice content!!
Thanks!
PLEASE HELP!!! Swapping a 4l80e into a 2005 chevy tahoe. Doing an all wheel drive swap also. I have an 02 Yukon Denali AWD front diff, also doing 4.30 gears to match the rear gears.
My question is regarding hooking up the np149 transfercase to the 4l80. I know I need the 32 spline adapter in the transfercase. What I don't know is what size spacer I need from the 4l80 to the transfercase.
I am eagerly waiting for you to reply, figured you'd know best.
It takes the same 4l80 rear adapter housing as a 4x4 transfer case of the same era. And Tim at Modern Muscle Salvage can sell the 32 spline input for the nv149
@@LawrenceTolman So would I tell Jake's Performance transmission to give me the 4x4 transfercase adapter for a 2005 chevy 2500 4l80?
Edit: reread your reply, yes is probably your answer.
Do the pinion shims also affect backlash or is that adjusted in a different way if it is out of spec? If it is the latter how do you adjust the backlash?
the backlash is adjusted by moving the carrier side to side, either with shims or the threaded sided adjusters in this case. but yes, if you move the pinion depth it will throw off the backlash, so anytime you adjust the pinion, the carrier must be adjusted as well
Are you happy with the 4.30s? My fear is with big power it'd be too deep?
Lt lsd or locker will make your steering so heavy and it will torque steer
Does the new front diff just bolts in without modifications? Do you have to redo the mounting bolts?
yes, it bolts in place on the GMT800 4wd trucks with zero changes
Hell yea! 🤘
What kind of sealant are you using to put the case back together
Permatex Anaerobic sealant
I think people are worried about the truck steering into the wall with an LSD because of torque steer. I personally think torque steer is only a real consideration in high HP FWD vehicles, but with an AWD vehicle of that weight with only about 35% of the power to the front wheels you should be ok, but it will be present, especially when you start getting towards 900-1000hp.
Its actually 38% front 62% rear..
@@dalehall2993 did you read the part where I said about?
@@TT.357
And did you read the part where i said actually?👀👍🏻
Not just torque steer but it'll make the truck push when it locks hard. 1st year of the sti in the states had a pretty aggressive front limited slip. It was noticeable if you were under throttle through a turn
When drag racing 4wd the front diff must be fully locked to go straight a lsd won't work
This thing is going to rip
857👍's up LT thanks for sharing
Does anyone make a front locker for the GMT400? Nothing like spinning tires in deep snow.
no, not that I am aware of
I think the best you can get is an LSD unit... I know Bully Racing makes them for the 7.25 diff in the SyTys and TBBS/9-7x Aero. Not sure if they do the 8.5, but worth an ask of them.
so there isn't a sliding 4x4 caller anymore on the passenger side axle!!!!!!!!
If you can find a limited slip diff from an S10 rear it’ll fit in the front of a 1500 4x4. Just sayin…
Never heard of that!
Don't these AWD setups have an issue with spinning the LF tire in higher hp applications?
I don’t know, but we’ll find out soon enough
👋💯⭐👨🔧✔
Gotta get them transitions down man. The eye contact weirds me out
Love the channel and what you do but, the freaking music is a severe distraction to me. HATE IT
Jeez LT! Shewwwww I read the listing and thought, “ohh nooooo” bc I’ve already purchased the t/c and front diff. I was glad to find out you were just playing lol
Sorry about that lol... glad to hear of another AWD conversion coming together!