Steve, the coil is open circuit. Those coils pass the 240vac on both sides. One side is open. On resistance, you should see roughly a short through each side. The thermistors are probably ok. The coils provide some filtering of noise from or to the mains supply. Also, have you ever heard of a dim bulb tester? It's a device that allows you to let a controlled amount of current into a device. It would let you connect up the TV or other equipment without blowing the fuse. Basically, it puts a bulb in series with the AC supply rail, and in doing so limiting the current / wattage allowed into the device to the wattage of a bulb. If the bulb shines bright, you are drawing the full wattage of the bulb, if it's dim you are only drawing a small current or wattage through the bulb. Its a way of protecting the device by limiting current flow into a piece of equipment. If you switch out the dim bulb, it allows the full current to flow unrestricted, and a fuse will blow if the equipment has a short on the supply rail. Another device you should be using is an isolation transformer to give you some level of protection from electrocution. Good luck.
I have repaired a few tv's normally I just opt to replace the complete board if I can't see the fault quickly. Hats off to you for trying. I just see you have another video on this will watch that now
I've been watching your vids daily now, and how quickly your channel is growing is an absolute delight! Glad to know there will be more vids on the way!!
Very interesting and with the comical add on which makes it a pleasure to watch. Exciting and brave of you to take this on. I wait for part 2 with anticipation and optimism.
My far-too-late commentary. (I have more than 20 years experience with switching power supplies.) The coil is most certainly a common-mode choke for EMI suppression. There must be DC continuity through each coil for the mains to reach the bridge. The small components shunting the coils are likely transient suppressors (varistors). At 240V they will be open-circuit. They are meant to suppress high voltages that can be induced by input surges (lightning strikes on the mains,.etc) as the CM chokes can 'ring' and boost sudden input voltages to insane levels. (Normally there is a single large thermistor in series with the input for inrush suppression.)
To add to the far-too-late commentary: true, but, the coil being open circuit is just stopping the fuse from blowing again(*). If he fixes it, the fault is still going to be there. Anyway, let's watch the follow up. (*): which is odd as it shouldn't have gone open circuit along with the fuse. I would have expected to see *WAY* more carnage in the rest of the circuit if the faults were related.
Tune in next week when you're hear Dr. Steve say "nice!" Yeah don't be hard on your self Steve, you always state that you know nothing but that nothing is more than most of us mere mortals. It's just like a series now. 😂 can't wait for episode 2 😊
I met the channel watching My Mate Vince and now I'm doing a full immersion, I like your style and your embarrassing songs. ... Anyone else think he looks like Russell Crowe's geek brother ??
Plenty Of Comments already about a possible short which stressed "Burnt Out or open Circuited" that Choke, if there are no shorts across the voltage rails "Voltage Test Points to Ground" The choke can be rewound and soldered to it's original points, make sure the windings are returned to the correct turns if there are 12 turns then make sure you end up with 12 turns.. Check every other board and their Voltage Test points to ground as well before connecting them to the power Board, As the Power board will fail as soon as you connect any board with a short in it's supply rails. The Thermistors on the Power Board I believe should have a specific resistance to them when at room temperature BTW, So I'm guessing they too were stressed out to end up open circuited like they are, They need to be replaced with the correct values before testing or applying power to the Board as they are there for the protection of sensitive components on the Board and all those other Boards
This is the second video I watched and the last! I found a simple single motherboard TV out on the curb, had it apart, had done a hard reset. Following your video I found one of the BIG copper coils on mine had been replaced not neat at all like your sodder fixes! On my way to Ebay with my new cute TV waiting patiently!
You can desolder the coil from the board and test it scrape some of the insulation off the coil and/or unwind the coil and see if there’s a break in the coil since you can’t get another part...
Thanks Bunny! You're right! It's videos like this when I realise how little I know! But I'm still learning evey time, and I will definitely revisit this and see if i can do any better! 👍
I had a Vizio 55 inch I bought in 2017 that went bad last year, I replaced it but never got rid of it, I had a feeling it was an easy fix. Sure enough in September I took it apart, tested the power board and ordered a replacement for $50. Now I have an extra 55 inch TV and actually accomplished something 🤣
Thanks Dan... yeah i kinda threw myself in at the deep end with this one, having never opened up a TV before! There's alot going on, and a lot to get my head around but I'll definitely be having another crack at it! 👍
@@StezStixFixspeaking of cracks , Your best and cheapest bet is to find the exact same tv with a cracked screen. I pick them up for £10 to £20 from insurance salvage auctions.
As Fuzzy electronics says the coil has gone open circuit. But to have gone open circuit a lot of power must have gone through it. That would suggest something major has gone short. If you do get another coil check for shorts before putting any power into the board. It is possible that the short has gone open. But this would produce a lot of heat. My suggestion is take the heat sinks of the components as you may find that there is a crack in the faulty one or it may just crumble away.
What I'd probably do here is maybe replace the fuse, turn it on and hook up a thermal camera. Don't blink, don't look away and don't breathe lol. Just keep watching until the fault shows itself 😁
😊 Cheers mate. I'm gonna revisit this, once I've replaced that common mode choke (or whatever it's called) and checked over everything under the heatsinks. Then I'll defo get the thermal camera back out! 👍
Tension mounts :) Interesting I hope you get it sorted. Looking forward to the next installment, and by the way you know and have done a lot more than me with your repairs. Keep up the good work mate!
Those axial components you desoldered are indeed very likely NTCs, probably used for inrush current limiting. I agree with those who recommended hunting for the root cause of that common mode choke/coil to fail open, vs. having it's lacquer melt and short windings. That must have been quite a bit of instantaneous current flowing through that thing. The bridge rectifier is a prime suspect, assuming you can't find any shorts on the DC side once you took it out. Fun stuff!! :-)
These small 2-pin devices are spark gap protectors and they serve to suppress voltage spikes across the coils of the common mode choke. Spark gaps are OK, the common mode choke is not. Likely the coil is damaged somewhere near the points where the enameled wire is soldered to the pins, and often this can be fixed quite easily and you don't need to replace this component. But I doubt that's the only problem.
Like stated, the first winding is the issue, of course i cannot really shove my face to the board to confirm is it. If the fuse blew up with in 10 minutes, then there has been short near the ac. I think you did check the caps so then next in line to check Degauss Posistor - very likely. Horizontal output transistor. Power supply regulator if there is one. Power supply chopper (switchmode) transistor if there is one. Diode(s) in main bridge Main filter capacitor(s).
Hi, those Coils, is one side Positive and the other Negative?, seems like the 3v AC may be where the other side isn’t passing through the first Coil, may be the Negative side, so you could be right, the first coil has a break in the Negative side. Just a thought.
My knowledge on electronics he’s on about the same level as yours but all myself and retired I would love doing it as a hobby I found by watching your channel I am learning things through what you are doing I have myself worked on TVs and in the past I have bought TVs that will not switch onAnd with my knowledge I have usually narrowed it down to one board I found it a lot easier in the past to search on eBay for a replacement board these are readily available secondhand I suppose for your channel it’s more about finding the exact problem but with these complicated TVs you usually find on the board there’s not just one component at Fails it’s usually two or three as other people have already said I just thought I would put this up to give you another option you probably already know thank you for your channel which I recently stumbled across look forward to your next videos stay safe
The coil is there as a choke filter on the mains input side. Looks like one side of it is open circuit. Probably burnt the coil when something shorted and also blew the fuse. I think something else has shorted further down. Probably a diode has failed short circuit. I'd be removing the bridge rectifier and testing that as a starting point. It's always best to test them out of circuit.
I was gonna comment something similar to this. That coil might be burnt, thus causing the short. If something so dramatic happened that even physically blew the fuse up then I'd suggest checking all the caps off circuit as well. They might be damaged because of the over-current that flowed through the circuit.
Did you check the 5 V rail? Standby the TV uses 5 V standby you need to check where the standby voltage comes in. If it’s below 5 V then you know you’ve got a problem with the TV and the power supply.
when you narrow it down to the coils all im thinking is, are both coils the same? if so swap them around and see if you get the same issue that way you narrow down its the coil vs its something else. thats my logic anyhow.
replace thermistors , u can use the black disc ones same thing, from any tv, but thats gone more than likely a mosfet under one of heatsinks has gone short, common is that a vestel psu..
around 11:41 you can see a residue from liquid on the board when you turn it over near your left hand going down the board and over to a yellow wrapped transformer
Whilst you could remove and ‘bypass’ the choke for test purposes the fault that caused that choke to fail and then blow the fuse ‘when the TV was on for a while’ needs investigating first, otherwise if the fault is still there then any replacement choke will also fail. Ideally remove the bridge and then check it out of circuit followed by high DC voltage, current- protected injection into the bridge output. High voltage power supplies are not in everyone’s toolkit however. If you have a variac with a light-bulb limiter than that could be connected to the input of the bridge (first remove the coil nearest the bridge). A failure after a time period may show itself by the lamp becoming bright. Circuits that fail after a time period are always the most difficult. A circuit diagram would help (the second ‘non blown’ fuse may be in the low voltage side perhaps pointing to an issue in the high side, one or more FETs or something has failed in the switching circuit).
Thanks Ralph, really appreciate the info. I'll definitely be having another look at this, as I want to see what's going on under those heatsinks. I should really have removed them first time around, as you're dead right, that choke didn't fail by itself! Thanks again for the info 👍
You are welcome I did forget to mention also having another look at those varistors which are usually there to reduce inrush current, though being connected across the coils is a little odd. Good luck with the repair.
0:01 toshiba tv's common faults , 1st - 5 watts ceramic resistor in primary circuit just after bridge rectifier burn open 2nd - 5 watts ceramic resistor in primary circuit just after bridge rectifier burn open 3rd - 5 watts ceramic resistor in primary circuit just after bridge rectifier burn open
For repairing CRT TV, LCD TV, & LED TV if you see fuse blow, replace fuse with put light bulb temporary for safety, if you replace with fuse again maybe other components will get broken effect too.
im a year late , sorry I only just saw this video. at a pinch you could bypass that faulty filter coil with wire (not the best solution but it'll work), best solution is replace the coil with a new one
coil is open - probably because a higher rated fuse was used and the coil became a fuse! save your money for now, simply bridge it out - its only a common mode suppression choke anyway - my guess is - once bridged out, the fuse you replaced will blow the transformer driver, control chip - or (unlikely) a capacitor is shorted
When my friend gave me a TV last weekend saying if I can fix it, it's mine to keep, I admit to thinking "I hope it's something simple, 'cos I'm going to be in over my head. 😬". I can confirm however: T# fuses are time delay, so they resist for a while before blowing (as opposed to F#, which are the more common fast blow). ✔️ Thermistors are thermal affected resistors. ✔️ No idea how to test them, like you say, because they change with relative heat. I agree that Flib and Fuzzy are plausible with the coils. Not knowing much about the internals of a TV, I wonder if there are two near identical circuits to run alternate TV lines in the screen for each refresh (if this theory isn't clear, check out episode 3 of my "Electronics For The Lesser Knowledgeable" series which covers TV and region compatibility). Just a theory. Worst case scenario, you could claim to be a rockstar and launch the telly out of the window. 🤘😂 (Don't do this, kids - it's dangerous and irresponsible. Plus it doesn't spectacularly smash like the old glass fronted CRTs, like the Who would've had... I mean, don't do that either. Can anyone lend me a shovel for the whole I'm digging myself into?...).
Theres one or more other component's that have blown on your board..you could be chasing that *forever* ..your best bet..look for a 2nd hand power board for that TV .. often various models use the same board ....ive done this a few times myself .
Just a question, I have an Philips blu ray player that won't turn on, it has 5V standby but it's missing +5v and +12. Are this voltage always available or only if there's an enable signal?
@@StezStixFix this eBay auction page may help www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283191249785 it states about the fuses and coils, but that board could only find for sale on eBay international. Good luck.
Thanks Roy! Funnily enough, I found that listing earlier today but the dimensions are a little smaller than the one I took off. Appreciate the info, it's confirmed what i thought to be the case, so I might have to order one up and "modify" it to fit! 😁
I stopped messing with TVs years ago, they blew my mind a lot, the common faults got boring. Anyway Brother since when did you gain the Monty python Patreon. Blowing a fuse when replaced, the first check should be the Bridge, Diodes, MOV's but.. as its a To-Shiba TV it's 2/3 common faults with their shit psu boards. Some comments, are sort of close but no cigar, if it was the spark gaps going off. I'd say replace the caps & no! it's not them Yet! To be continued... 📺 🖖👍
Thanks brother Steve 🙏 Sage advice as always... I'll definitely be trying to get to the bottom of this one. I need to do some more research and order up a few bits and then i'll take it on again. I had a feeling it wouldn't just be as simple as the common mode choke, that had to fail for a reason, so I'll be taking all those pesky heatsinks off and I guess I'll take it from there! Wish me luck! 😊
Steven1: Right! One!... Two!... Five! Steven2: Three, sir! Steven1 - Steven1: Three! (angels sing) (boom! goes the TV) 😂🤣🤣 The Monty Steve(s) version 😁 Hmm hmm the choke that filters the mains transients would be dead as a rock 0 pulse but yours shows signs, that helps give the answer to where the fault is 😊
4 shalt thou not count, neither count thou 2, excepting that thou then proceed to 3. 5 IS RIGHT OUT! Once the number 3, being the third number, be reached, then lobbest thy Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch towards thy TV, who, being naughty in my sight, shall snuff it. 😁 I really appreciate your cryptic clues, without giving me the answer. It means I have to use my tiny brain to actually work it out! 🙃 I think this one might be over my knowledge limit, but I'll certainly be giving it my best shot! 🙃
Amen. That's my dad teaching me, coming out in my thoughts and typing, he loved the cryptic stuff and I was always tested at work on breaks, when we did the papers cryptic crossword puzzles we shared them but man was he good at it. Never!! a day went by were we'd go home without the puzzles complete in the news papers 😢 But hey! He lives on in ME!! If I give answers to things I know to be right, then the person(s) reading it, using it will not learn to help & them self's to the truth. Steve I have FAITH!! in You!! As a human Person. Not just because we share a name, but also the fact you have a good heart & soul. It shows in the way you talk and act in your videos. I know for one you have the ability and knowledge to get the devices/items you work on back to there fully working state. Maybe when this whole virus things over we can meet or talk in person, we'd drive others crazy with silly jokes and stuff but hey it'd be fun and good to socialize away from the internet.
Your dad taught you well! And it's great that you are able and willing to pass that knowledge on to others. You know I appreciate it! 👍 It's been that long that I can't remember what socialising away from the internet looks like! As these restrictions are slowly lifting, I'll be opening my pub back up this week, so i'll be helping others to interact over a few beers. That's always the best way. 😁
Usually on the circuit board, it prompts you where to probe your tester and it tells you the voltages it should be serviced as sadly they don’t do schematics for new TVs. Anyway old televisions. Yes new TVs no
Please please please steve never ever use both hands when connecting to the home power source like the 240v as you risk is passing between your arms and ofcourse through your chest always use both leads from the multimeter in 1 hand. Really reduces risk of fatality.
This my or may not work depending on said coil but using a resistance test on the coil and comparing it to the presumably working one may give you more information I assume each side is a separate winding so test the resistance of each side on the in and out. if you need any more help give me a dm in joe's discord. it seems ROY has found the replacement on ebay so maybe worth just swapping it out.
Thanks Mr Flibble! Really appreciate that. I didn't think to measure the working one, but that makes perfect sense. I also can't find the exact component anywhere, but I figure if I can get something that behaves the same and does the same job, I don't see why it wouldn't work! 👍
@@StezStixFix np heres a guide on measuring Inductance I would imagine if the cold resistance and Inductance is the same on your as the new one it should be ok. www.wikihow.com/Measure-Inductance
Great practice checking the capacitor 1st. They hurt. Instead of a quick "tchh" that startles u and ends its more of a "VVVVVVVVVVVVVT!" which can make a grown man cry.(trust me)
Slightly off topic but about Toshiba nonetheless. The POS DOLLAR STORE QUALITY TV 43" Toshiba FIRE EDITION I have has been rebooting every couple hours since I plugged it in. Watching a good movie - POP! - Goes to the smiley with three dots and tries to reconnect. TRIES TO RECONNECT! It can't seem to ever connect back up. Says there's no signal. Everything else in the house is running. Takes 20 - 30 min to get the worthless POS connected again. Couldn't find a signal next to the router. Hmmm. WiFi is strong. TV is phenomenally, conspicuously nonfunctioning. I'm not the only one according to the amount of negative, similar feedback. TOSHIBA SUCKS
12:17 Why don't we go get a schematic then? Unless Toshiba are one of these companies who copyright all their manuals and won't let anyone see them...APPLE !
I'm trying to fix a 42HL96 and was shocked, totally shocked, that I found a service manual online that shows the circuits. Mine is stuck with 3 flashing yellow, indicating power fail...or it needs a remote, can't be sure which. I plan to make it run on 12v dc, so will probably just scrap the ac power board and replacing the high voltage backlight with high power leds..if I can get it to work.
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Steve, the coil is open circuit. Those coils pass the 240vac on both sides. One side is open. On resistance, you should see roughly a short through each side. The thermistors are probably ok. The coils provide some filtering of noise from or to the mains supply.
Also, have you ever heard of a dim bulb tester? It's a device that allows you to let a controlled amount of current into a device. It would let you connect up the TV or other equipment without blowing the fuse. Basically, it puts a bulb in series with the AC supply rail, and in doing so limiting the current / wattage allowed into the device to the wattage of a bulb. If the bulb shines bright, you are drawing the full wattage of the bulb, if it's dim you are only drawing a small current or wattage through the bulb. Its a way of protecting the device by limiting current flow into a piece of equipment. If you switch out the dim bulb, it allows the full current to flow unrestricted, and a fuse will blow if the equipment has a short on the supply rail. Another device you should be using is an isolation transformer to give you some level of protection from electrocution. Good luck.
great suggestion re dim bulb
I have repaired a few tv's normally I just opt to replace the complete board if I can't see the fault quickly.
Hats off to you for trying. I just see you have another video on this will watch that now
I've been watching your vids daily now, and how quickly your channel is growing is an absolute delight! Glad to know there will be more vids on the way!!
So nice to see some consumer electronics where the back is held on by screws rather than those horrible hidden clips.
Very interesting and with the comical add on which makes it a pleasure to watch. Exciting and brave of you to take this on. I wait for part 2 with anticipation and optimism.
Thanks M m! Much appreciated! 👍
My far-too-late commentary. (I have more than 20 years experience with switching power supplies.)
The coil is most certainly a common-mode choke for EMI suppression. There must be DC continuity through each coil for the mains to reach the bridge.
The small components shunting the coils are likely transient suppressors (varistors). At 240V they will be open-circuit. They are meant to suppress high voltages that can be induced by input surges (lightning strikes on the mains,.etc) as the CM chokes can 'ring' and boost sudden input voltages to insane levels.
(Normally there is a single large thermistor in series with the input for inrush suppression.)
To add to the far-too-late commentary: true, but, the coil being open circuit is just stopping the fuse from blowing again(*). If he fixes it, the fault is still going to be there.
Anyway, let's watch the follow up.
(*): which is odd as it shouldn't have gone open circuit along with the fuse. I would have expected to see *WAY* more carnage in the rest of the circuit if the faults were related.
Tune in next week when you're hear Dr. Steve say "nice!" Yeah don't be hard on your self Steve, you always state that you know nothing but that nothing is more than most of us mere mortals. It's just like a series now. 😂 can't wait for episode 2 😊
I met the channel watching My Mate Vince and now I'm doing a full immersion, I like your style and your embarrassing songs. ... Anyone else think he looks like Russell Crowe's geek brother ??
Plenty Of Comments already about a possible short which stressed "Burnt Out or open Circuited" that Choke, if there are no shorts across the voltage rails "Voltage Test Points to Ground" The choke can be rewound and soldered to it's original points, make sure the windings are returned to the correct turns if there are 12 turns then make sure you end up with 12 turns..
Check every other board and their Voltage Test points to ground as well before connecting them to the power Board, As the Power board will fail as soon as you connect any board with a short in it's supply rails.
The Thermistors on the Power Board I believe should have a specific resistance to them when at room temperature BTW, So I'm guessing they too were stressed out to end up open circuited like they are, They need to be replaced with the correct values before testing or applying power to the Board as they are there for the protection of sensitive components on the Board and all those other Boards
Awesome, thanks Bear! 🐨 Excellent advice as always. I'll make sure I do all of these things! Really really appreciated 👍
This is the second video I watched and the last! I found a simple single motherboard TV out on the curb, had it apart, had done a hard reset. Following your video I found one of the BIG copper coils on mine had been replaced not neat at all like your sodder fixes! On my way to Ebay with my new cute TV waiting patiently!
Awesome, thanks Katrina! Sounds like a great find! 👍
You can desolder the coil from the board and test it scrape some of the insulation off the coil and/or unwind the coil and see if there’s a break in the coil since you can’t get another part...
Thanks Darren! I'll definitely do that! 👍
the coil is just a symptom, it makes no sense to replace it without knowing the cause of the blown fuse.
hi bud pls do not be so hard on yourself you are tring something new can not wait to see what happens next?
Thanks Bunny! You're right! It's videos like this when I realise how little I know! But I'm still learning evey time, and I will definitely revisit this and see if i can do any better! 👍
Was gonna say the same thing @Bunny Love, loving your videos, @StezStix Fix, none of us can fix everything buddy, but there's still hope.
@@leeg4116 Thanks Lee! 😊
I was gonna say the same thing aswell. Cant wait for followup!
@@rocksteady1478 thank you! 😊
I had a Vizio 55 inch I bought in 2017 that went bad last year, I replaced it but never got rid of it, I had a feeling it was an easy fix. Sure enough in September I took it apart, tested the power board and ordered a replacement for $50. Now I have an extra 55 inch TV and actually accomplished something 🤣
This is something different. From what I’ve read TVs are a pain to work on, I’m looking forward to the follow up.
Thanks Dan... yeah i kinda threw myself in at the deep end with this one, having never opened up a TV before! There's alot going on, and a lot to get my head around but I'll definitely be having another crack at it! 👍
@@StezStixFixspeaking of cracks , Your best and cheapest bet is to find the exact same tv with a cracked screen. I pick them up for £10 to £20 from insurance salvage auctions.
As Fuzzy electronics says the coil has gone open circuit. But to have gone open circuit a lot of power must have gone through it. That would suggest something major has gone short. If you do get another coil check for shorts before putting any power into the board. It is possible that the short has gone open. But this would produce a lot of heat. My suggestion is take the heat sinks of the components as you may find that there is a crack in the faulty one or it may just crumble away.
Thanks PDS! Yes, excellent suggestion. I'll get all the heatsinks off and check all the components under them! Much appreciated! 👍
Which kind of temperature can crack an aluminium heatsink? That's insane.
@@goku445 He's obviously talking about the mosfets under the heatsink goku, not the heatsink itself. He just calls them components, not mosfets.
What I'd probably do here is maybe replace the fuse, turn it on and hook up a thermal camera. Don't blink, don't look away and don't breathe lol. Just keep watching until the fault shows itself 😁
Edit: never mind, just got to that part lol
😊 Cheers mate. I'm gonna revisit this, once I've replaced that common mode choke (or whatever it's called) and checked over everything under the heatsinks. Then I'll defo get the thermal camera back out! 👍
@@StezStixFix yeah problem with these things is it could take hours to actually show the fault lol. Looking forward to a follow up 😁
Tension mounts :) Interesting I hope you get it sorted. Looking forward to the next installment, and by the way you know and have done a lot more than me with your repairs. Keep up the good work mate!
Thanks Tony! Much appreciated. I'm slowly learning! 😊
Those axial components you desoldered are indeed very likely NTCs, probably used for inrush current limiting. I agree with those who recommended hunting for the root cause of that common mode choke/coil to fail open, vs. having it's lacquer melt and short windings. That must have been quite a bit of instantaneous current flowing through that thing. The bridge rectifier is a prime suspect, assuming you can't find any shorts on the DC side once you took it out. Fun stuff!! :-)
Aaaaaand I just realized that your video was not from 2 days ago, but a YEAR ago... :hidesunderrock: 🤣 Did you ever fix it?
Lol was thinking the very same thing.
Good to watch you attempt to fix this Toshiba lcd tv there Steve but maybe you will in the next vlog - Nice 1 👍
Thanks Chris! Yeah, I'll definitely be having another crack at this! 👍
Great video! Waiting for that coil for next part. Greetings from argentina
Thanks Arreglando! I can't wait to have another go! 👍
Always use a 100w filament bulb (old type not energy saving or led) in series that way if it’s glows dim it’s ok if it bright there’s a short
Thanks Cucumber Man! I'll look into that method. Appreciated 👍
@@StezStixFix saves blowing components you’ve just replaced 🙂
These small 2-pin devices are spark gap protectors and they serve to suppress voltage spikes across the coils of the common mode choke. Spark gaps are OK, the common mode choke is not. Likely the coil is damaged somewhere near the points where the enameled wire is soldered to the pins, and often this can be fixed quite easily and you don't need to replace this component. But I doubt that's the only problem.
For testing he could have just bridged the spark gap.
Like stated, the first winding is the issue, of course i cannot really shove my face to the board to confirm is it. If the fuse blew up with in 10 minutes, then there has been short near the ac. I think you did check the caps so then next in line to check
Degauss Posistor - very likely.
Horizontal output transistor.
Power supply regulator if there is one.
Power supply chopper (switchmode) transistor if there is one.
Diode(s) in main bridge
Main filter capacitor(s).
we are only human....no such thing as failure when knowledge is gained!
Hi, those Coils, is one side Positive and the other Negative?, seems like the 3v AC may be where the other side isn’t passing through the first Coil, may be the Negative side, so you could be right, the first coil has a break in the Negative side. Just a thought.
I'm always excited for an adventure when I see you've dropped a new video. 🥳
😁 thanks Tidder! 👍
@Mrsuperking UA-cam631 good idea, sounds cool! 👍
My knowledge on electronics he’s on about the same level as yours but all myself and retired I would love doing it as a hobby I found by watching your channel I am learning things through what you are doing I have myself worked on TVs and in the past I have bought TVs that will not switch onAnd with my knowledge I have usually narrowed it down to one board I found it a lot easier in the past to search on eBay for a replacement board these are readily available secondhand I suppose for your channel it’s more about finding the exact problem but with these complicated TVs you usually find on the board there’s not just one component at Fails it’s usually two or three as other people have already said I just thought I would put this up to give you another option you probably already know thank you for your channel which I recently stumbled across look forward to your next videos stay safe
Good Sean impression 👌 I like the humor you trow in your videos. Keep up the good work. 😊
Things in here don't react well to bullets
Don't forget it's switch mode power supply. Possible shorted fet? Transistor.
The coil is there as a choke filter on the mains input side. Looks like one side of it is open circuit. Probably burnt the coil when something shorted and also blew the fuse. I think something else has shorted further down. Probably a diode has failed short circuit. I'd be removing the bridge rectifier and testing that as a starting point. It's always best to test them out of circuit.
Thanks Fuzzy! I'll definitely do that, really appreciate the info! 👍
Yes i put my money on this reaction :)
I was gonna comment something similar to this. That coil might be burnt, thus causing the short.
If something so dramatic happened that even physically blew the fuse up then I'd suggest checking all the caps off circuit as well. They might be damaged because of the over-current that flowed through the circuit.
@@lnFernemLand Appreciate that, yeah, I'll check them over too!
Did you check the 5 V rail? Standby the TV uses 5 V standby you need to check where the standby voltage comes in. If it’s below 5 V then you know you’ve got a problem with the TV and the power supply.
when you narrow it down to the coils all im thinking is, are both coils the same? if so swap them around and see if you get the same issue that way you narrow down its the coil vs its something else. thats my logic anyhow.
I was frightened for you there!
That's a pretty good Connery
replace thermistors , u can use the black disc ones same thing, from any tv, but thats gone more than likely a mosfet under one of heatsinks has gone short, common is that a vestel psu..
around 11:41 you can see a residue from liquid on the board when you turn it over near your left hand going down the board and over to a yellow wrapped transformer
Whilst you could remove and ‘bypass’ the choke for test purposes the fault that caused that choke to fail and then blow the fuse ‘when the TV was on for a while’ needs investigating first, otherwise if the fault is still there then any replacement choke will also fail.
Ideally remove the bridge and then check it out of circuit followed by high DC voltage, current- protected injection into the bridge output. High voltage power supplies are not in everyone’s toolkit however.
If you have a variac with a light-bulb limiter than that could be connected to the input of the bridge (first remove the coil nearest the bridge). A failure after a time period may show itself by the lamp becoming bright.
Circuits that fail after a time period are always the most difficult.
A circuit diagram would help (the second ‘non blown’ fuse may be in the low voltage side perhaps pointing to an issue in the high side, one or more FETs or something has failed in the switching circuit).
Thanks Ralph, really appreciate the info. I'll definitely be having another look at this, as I want to see what's going on under those heatsinks. I should really have removed them first time around, as you're dead right, that choke didn't fail by itself! Thanks again for the info 👍
You are welcome
I did forget to mention also having another look at those varistors which are usually there to reduce inrush current, though being connected across the coils is a little odd.
Good luck with the repair.
@@ralphj4012 You are right. That was my first thougth as he said that the set ran for ten minutes. 😁
bridge the spark gap, limit the current and check which component is getting hot.
You need a bigger mat Stez 😂
😁 and a bigger room! 🤣
@@StezStixFix haha definitely 😂
The power board looks to me to have separate smpu and the best place to start is standby voltage and its circuits.
You have to run current through them they heat up and reduce their resistance
and i would check that relay in the black box board..its a power relay 👍👍
Bold move my friend !!!
Certainly was Guy! In for a penny... and all that! 😁
0:01 toshiba tv's common faults ,
1st - 5 watts ceramic resistor in primary circuit just after bridge rectifier burn open
2nd - 5 watts ceramic resistor in primary circuit just after bridge rectifier burn open
3rd - 5 watts ceramic resistor in primary circuit just after bridge rectifier burn open
For repairing CRT TV, LCD TV, & LED TV if you see fuse blow, replace fuse with put light bulb temporary for safety, if you replace with fuse again maybe other components will get broken effect too.
Great video, although what does 'haitch' mean ?
I think those RV components are varistors.
Can I ask where I can get one of those mini thermal cameras?
Your DMM was in AC mode when you were checking a DC circuit
im a year late , sorry I only just saw this video. at a pinch you could bypass that faulty filter coil with wire (not the best solution but it'll work), best solution is replace the coil with a new one
coil is open - probably because a higher rated fuse was used and the coil became a fuse! save your money for now, simply bridge it out - its only a common mode suppression choke anyway - my guess is - once bridged out, the fuse you replaced will blow the transformer driver, control chip - or (unlikely) a capacitor is shorted
When my friend gave me a TV last weekend saying if I can fix it, it's mine to keep, I admit to thinking "I hope it's something simple, 'cos I'm going to be in over my head. 😬". I can confirm however:
T# fuses are time delay, so they resist for a while before blowing (as opposed to F#, which are the more common fast blow). ✔️
Thermistors are thermal affected resistors. ✔️ No idea how to test them, like you say, because they change with relative heat.
I agree that Flib and Fuzzy are plausible with the coils. Not knowing much about the internals of a TV, I wonder if there are two near identical circuits to run alternate TV lines in the screen for each refresh (if this theory isn't clear, check out episode 3 of my "Electronics For The Lesser Knowledgeable" series which covers TV and region compatibility). Just a theory.
Worst case scenario, you could claim to be a rockstar and launch the telly out of the window. 🤘😂 (Don't do this, kids - it's dangerous and irresponsible. Plus it doesn't spectacularly smash like the old glass fronted CRTs, like the Who would've had... I mean, don't do that either. Can anyone lend me a shovel for the whole I'm digging myself into?...).
Haha! Comment of the day, for sure! 😁 Appreciate the heads up on all of these things, as always Toxo! 👍
No worries @@StezStixFix. 😎👍
Theres one or more other component's that have blown on your board..you could be chasing that *forever* ..your best bet..look for a 2nd hand power board for that TV .. often various models use the same board ....ive done this a few times myself .
Just a question, I have an Philips blu ray player that won't turn on, it has 5V standby but it's missing +5v and +12.
Are this voltage always available or only if there's an enable signal?
Lol reminds me of when my brother brought me a tv to repair, it was a nightmare with parts all over the living room floor
Damn that is one big remote
Yeah, it's really difficult to work on with limited space! I still have bits of it all over the floor while I wait for a couple of parts! 😁
@@StezStixFix this eBay auction page may help www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283191249785 it states about the fuses and coils, but that board could only find for sale on eBay international. Good luck.
Thanks Roy! Funnily enough, I found that listing earlier today but the dimensions are a little smaller than the one I took off. Appreciate the info, it's confirmed what i thought to be the case, so I might have to order one up and "modify" it to fit! 😁
1st class video to watch thank you take care kind regards from me kenneth
I stopped messing with TVs years ago, they blew my mind a lot, the common faults got boring. Anyway Brother since when did you gain the Monty python Patreon.
Blowing a fuse when replaced, the first check should be the Bridge, Diodes, MOV's but.. as its a To-Shiba TV it's 2/3 common faults with their shit psu boards.
Some comments, are sort of close but no cigar, if it was the spark gaps going off. I'd say replace the caps & no! it's not them Yet! To be continued... 📺 🖖👍
Thanks brother Steve 🙏
Sage advice as always... I'll definitely be trying to get to the bottom of this one. I need to do some more research and order up a few bits and then i'll take it on again. I had a feeling it wouldn't just be as simple as the common mode choke, that had to fail for a reason, so I'll be taking all those pesky heatsinks off and I guess I'll take it from there! Wish me luck! 😊
Steven1: Right! One!... Two!... Five! Steven2: Three, sir! Steven1 - Steven1: Three! (angels sing) (boom! goes the TV) 😂🤣🤣 The Monty Steve(s) version 😁
Hmm hmm the choke that filters the mains transients would be dead as a rock 0 pulse but yours shows signs, that helps give the answer to where the fault is 😊
4 shalt thou not count, neither count thou 2, excepting that thou then proceed to 3. 5 IS RIGHT OUT!
Once the number 3, being the third number, be reached, then lobbest thy Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch towards thy TV, who, being naughty in my sight, shall snuff it. 😁
I really appreciate your cryptic clues, without giving me the answer. It means I have to use my tiny brain to actually work it out! 🙃
I think this one might be over my knowledge limit, but I'll certainly be giving it my best shot! 🙃
Amen.
That's my dad teaching me, coming out in my thoughts and typing, he loved the cryptic stuff and I was always tested at work on breaks, when we did the papers cryptic crossword puzzles we shared them but man was he good at it. Never!! a day went by were we'd go home without the puzzles complete in the news papers 😢 But hey! He lives on in ME!! If I give answers to things I know to be right, then the person(s) reading it, using it will not learn to help & them self's to the truth.
Steve I have FAITH!! in You!! As a human Person. Not just because we share a name, but also the fact you have a good heart & soul. It shows in the way you talk and act in your videos. I know for one you have the ability and knowledge to get the devices/items you work on back to there fully working state. Maybe when this whole virus things over we can meet or talk in person, we'd drive others crazy with silly jokes and stuff but hey it'd be fun and good to socialize away from the internet.
Your dad taught you well! And it's great that you are able and willing to pass that knowledge on to others. You know I appreciate it! 👍
It's been that long that I can't remember what socialising away from the internet looks like! As these restrictions are slowly lifting, I'll be opening my pub back up this week, so i'll be helping others to interact over a few beers. That's always the best way. 😁
Do you need the all spark to bring the transformer back to life
Haha, yeah I probably do! 😅
Is there a part 2?
Ok, I saw the thermal tester above. WoW! $394.50 CAN! Ouch! OK, what about that component tester?
Usually on the circuit board, it prompts you where to probe your tester and it tells you the voltages it should be serviced as sadly they don’t do schematics for new TVs. Anyway old televisions. Yes new TVs no
Aaaah, don't you just love a cheap thermal camera 😌
(UNI-T UTi260B)
bad connection in the coil
When I plug mine in I can hear a click in the tv like it’s trying to power up then another click would that also be a fuse issue?
A click is usually a relay. It may be stuck or simply broken. Hope you can fix it! 👍
Who’s your friend? Vince? 😂
🤣 he's not sent me anything to work on yet! 😁
@@StezStixFix he can`t fix tv `s either.
excellent and entertaining
Did he fix this?
Love your vids!
I wonder if he ever fixed this bad boy
Welcome to the Rock
PD Pre Dave
looking for a faulty 60" CRT online now
NEVER SAY :I don't fix TVs" It is dangerously weird how so many will show up afterwards.
Wellington boots?
Please please please steve never ever use both hands when connecting to the home power source like the 240v as you risk is passing between your arms and ofcourse through your chest always use both leads from the multimeter in 1 hand. Really reduces risk of fatality.
Trying to fix a Toshiba with no power.
Me: Plug it in duh.
*doesnt work*
Me: Well shit, I’m out of ideas
Looks like u need a bigger mat :)
Haha, yeah absolutely! 😁 and a bigger room! 🤣
This my or may not work depending on said coil but using a resistance test on the coil and comparing it to the presumably working one may give you more information I assume each side is a separate winding so test the resistance of each side on the in and out. if you need any more help give me a dm in joe's discord. it seems ROY has found the replacement on ebay so maybe worth just swapping it out.
Thanks Mr Flibble! Really appreciate that. I didn't think to measure the working one, but that makes perfect sense. I also can't find the exact component anywhere, but I figure if I can get something that behaves the same and does the same job, I don't see why it wouldn't work! 👍
@@StezStixFix np heres a guide on measuring Inductance I would imagine if the cold resistance and Inductance is the same on your as the new one it should be ok.
www.wikihow.com/Measure-Inductance
@@flibble666 Awesome, thank you!
Open winding!
I also in the same problem enjoy playing with TVs only I have inexperience
)) =%
your method is unorthodox but, it didn't friggin work this time Stezza!!
Great practice checking the capacitor 1st. They hurt. Instead of a quick "tchh" that startles u and ends its more of a "VVVVVVVVVVVVVT!" which can make a grown man cry.(trust me)
Thanks Mike! I definitely don't want to be crying over a capacitor! So far so good, but I'll be double checking them from now on. 😬
its a fault in a winding . i had a similar problem with a VIVO tv bad winding job
I work a small device in the bedroom
Use dim bulb tester, this will protect the circuit and fuse! The bulb will light up when there is a short!
i had a tv with a broken volume button was going to get it fixed but my mom passed so i got hers
My money is on an inverter. (Not watched it all yet)
Slightly off topic but about Toshiba nonetheless. The POS DOLLAR STORE QUALITY TV 43" Toshiba FIRE EDITION I have has been rebooting every couple hours since I plugged it in. Watching a good movie - POP! - Goes to the smiley with three dots and tries to reconnect. TRIES TO RECONNECT! It can't seem to ever connect back up. Says there's no signal. Everything else in the house is running. Takes 20 - 30 min to get the worthless POS connected again. Couldn't find a signal next to the router. Hmmm. WiFi is strong.
TV is phenomenally, conspicuously nonfunctioning. I'm not the only one according to the amount of negative, similar feedback. TOSHIBA SUCKS
It’s a Toshiba TV. The best way to deal with this is the skip and buy a better branded TV
I got electrocuted trying to fix one of these. Fun times.
5 voltage standby you check
there's no 5v because the choke is open circuit.
There are capacitors with their internals melted out of them. The power supply is done. Period.
Afraid of 240V but keeps fiddling around with his hands close to the board while talking 😂
Why don't you just order another power board whatever that's called so what is the whole board be done with it
FAILURE!!!!! Lolol jk. At least you’re trying it.
12:17 Why don't we go get a schematic then? Unless Toshiba are one of these companies who copyright all their manuals and won't let anyone see them...APPLE !
I'm trying to fix a 42HL96 and was shocked, totally shocked, that I found a service manual online that shows the circuits.
Mine is stuck with 3 flashing yellow, indicating power fail...or it needs a remote, can't be sure which. I plan to make it run on 12v dc, so will probably just scrap the ac power board and replacing the high voltage backlight with high power leds..if I can get it to work.
next video: Trying To Fix A Car
Haha, thanks Wolli! It's on my "to do" list! 😁
@@StezStixFix my mate vince has some good tips but only for rollers.
Anyone who works on a TV without an “Isolation transformer” is a bit silly.
what a waste of time
Just bypass it!!
Make sure you remove the coil tho when bypassing it
@@deanavitch I was tempted to do that, but wasn't sure how safe that would be? 🤔
It looks as though a balanced coil setup so cancels out any noise on the mains supply that is all
thanks deanavitch! I did think it may be some kind of filter. Appreciate the heads up! 👍
Is it just me, or am I seeing a whole bunch of water damage on that board?