How to replace MINI Cooper Left and Right CV Axles 2002-2006
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- I show you how to replace driver and passenger axles for first generation MINI Coopers 2002-2008.
Get the axle puller here: amzn.to/2McjjUI
Get the BFH here: amzn.to/2FqFR3p
Get the SFH here: amzn.to/2FopnZy
Axles for R53 manual: amzn.to/2FsOp9U
Gen 1 MINI Cooper Parts: amzn.to/2AMemOk
Mod MINI Tip jar: www.fundly.com/mod-mini-tip-jar
See all the Mod MINI Videos on my channel: / modmini #modmini #modminiUA-cam
I show you how to replace driver and passenger axles for first generation MINI Coopers 2002-2008.
Get the axle puller here: amzn.to/2McjjUI
Get the BFH here: amzn.to/2FqFR3p
Get the SFH here: amzn.to/2FopnZy
Axles for R53 manual: amzn.to/2FsOp9U
Gen 1 MINI Cooper Parts: amzn.to/2AMemOk
Mod MINI Tip jar: www.fundly.com/mod-mini-tip-jar
See all the Mod MINI Videos on my channel: ua-cam.com/users/modmini
Mod MINI
How many pounds of torque are you using on the axle nut!
Is it always the same with driver side - if left or right steering?
Regards from germany and thanx a lot
Ben
@@S0Z10PATH Engine, transmission and axles are unaffected by left or right hand drive steering rack
@@ModMINI Thanks a lot. My english isnt perfect but 2morrow I have to try that. i hope, its because of the axles -.- Thank you so much!! Abonnement! ;-)
Thank you sir for making the video and showing me how it’s done and not having to take it to a mechanic and paying lots of money
Just wanted to thank you, once again, for these vids. Local garage quoted me £900 to replace a rear trailing arm, replace an inner CV Boot and adjust a parking brake after these caused my '05 Cooper to fail its MOT over here in the UK. The pride I took in telling them 'no thanks' and driving the car away to replace these things myself, because of the knowledge learned from your work, is immeasurable. Thank you for being a decent human being.
Hey man, as a professional , I just want to say, this was a great video, with great content. I appreciate you going the extra step to rebuild the carrier bearing just for the sake of the video , because you didn't have to. Bravo you touched on all the important steps in great detail.
Awesome video!!!! I was quoted $6,000 +!!! to do all different repairs when I bought my (3rd🤪) mini s I've done it all myself for under a grand!!!! These cars ABSOLUTELY BLOW to work on, but you make it easy as possible!!!! Thank you!!! 😊
Great, tidy content as usual Kurt. I find myself watching these no matter what. As I’ve said before your videos have inspired my R50 and R53 projects 😊👍
Another great Mini R53 repair video. Saved me $100 in labor. Thank you.
You make it look so easy but I know it is not. Good video!
Woah! Production quality has gone up. Those special effects! Haha great video as usual!
What special effects? :-)
Thank you so much. I'm building a 2002 for my daughter and these need to be replaced. will be taking care of the oil pan and crank sensor while I'm under there.
Thanks for everything over the years.
My son and I just started on a 2003 Mini-S for him to drive. They appeared hard at first to work on but thus far they are fairly reasonable. We just changed both axles, joints, and control arm bushings. Had to make a custom press to install the bushings.
Wanted to pass along a thank you about the driver side axle. After you demonstrated the prying technique we were confident we weren't going to break anything. But the wheel end was really difficult to get out of the hub. We ended up slipping the knuckle off the strut shock and used a press. We didn't have the luxury of studs. 2003 have no studs.
Anyway, very well designed video. Cheers!
If you don't have studs, you can use the wheel bolts and a steering wheel or axle puller like this. amzn.to/2tEjKBX
👍 You sir are a mechanic God. Thank you for sharing your wisdom with us. 😉
Thanks for this video, I was able to replace my Drive shafts when the CV's split. Very helpful. I would like to note, as my 2003 Mini Cooper S had corroded brake lines under the car. When having someone press the brakes so I could undo the Axle nuts it must have built up enough pressure to split ones of the lines. So keep an eye out for that one. You'll feel the brake pedal hit the floor when this happens anyway.
Pretty clean oil pan for an '06!! Great video, I'll be referencing it again soon. Thank you!
Hi this is Miguel! I just want to let you know that your job is pretty amazing! it help me a lot doing my miniCooper s maintenance thank you for your videos!
Bahah love how you made this video after i did both axles on three seperate r53's! Quick tip for anyone doing it; if the car is on coilovers just undo the top of the strut, endlink and tie rod. you can pull the hub far enough that way to remove the axle. That way you dont have to mess with the balljoints. Just be aware of the brake and abs lines. Also on my daily I eat a set of axles about every 10k so I applied grease or anti seize on anything possible to make the next time easier! This video brings PTSD of endless hammering on balljoints... Good Luck!
Interesting. With the magical BFH, I suspect I could get a ball joint separated faster than I could get the strut out of the steering knuckle. But I've had a lot more practice on ball joints than struts.
Good tip with avoiding the outer balljoints. Anyone with a UK car will suffer. The only time the underside of a UK car looks anything like it did in this video is when it rolled out of the factory.
@@ModMINI If the car has coils, no need to remove it from the knuckle, just swing the whole assembly outboard :)
Really nice example of an R53. appears to be well cared for.
Dude, You are AWESOME for doing these mini cooper videos!!! I use your videos when doing my jobs!!!! So helpful +!!!
I really hate mini's in general including my own, but at least I can know how to maintain it for the next guy. I appreciate the work you do
Thank you for the great job!
It’s really helpful and you save my time and (!) money for the right tools and ways you show.
Thank you again.
Releasing the driver side axle was helpful. 👍
Thank you so much, still useful instructions. Appreciate you sir 🙏
Great video. Awesome tip for using the spindle assembly to tap the axle in. Definitely using that one!
@ModMINI who makes the blue Jack lifts/stands your using here. Absolutely perfect for the mini.
Also I have to say sincere thank you over all the years. Keeping my 06 r52s on the Canadian roads. Man I wish my car parts looked as good as your old parts. Salt and rust is serious up here.
FYI: EZcarlift by the looks of it
I wish my 2003 R53 was that clean underneath, I have oil that has seeped everywhere. Time to watch some videos about how to fix all those leaks before I do anything more (already did the valve cover gasket and the crank sensor o-ring. Thanks for the instruction!
that's a cool floor creeper you got there.
Your channel is a gold mine, thanks a lot! 👌👌
Great explanation!.... I think that I am now ready to tackle the task. Thank you.
As always your information has pulled me out of the fire. Thank you sir!
Your videos are by far the best
Im follow the steps and today already do it thanks
That is a BIG hammer!
Just in time! My inner boot passenger side just broke, and got grease all over. Yuck! Ordering the pair right now, just need to get the BFH and I'm golden, so thanks for this video!
Glad it is helping. Use the supplied link in video description if that works for you,
I had to do my passenger side axle due to a rip in the boot. I had a heck of a time getting the ball joint out with hammer. After buying from HF an air hammer... it was a breeze so adding this comment so it might help others. Seems like the ball joint was seized pretty tight due to rust.
Going to attempt this this week. Wish me luck
Very good video. I'm having trouble getting the left side axle out of the auto transmission. I guess I need to pry harder to break the circlip free. Sprayed penetrating oil around it in Hope's it will creep into the splines and I will try again tomorrow.
Thank you!!! Saved my butt
Damn! I need you to work on my 2013 GP. I need a ton of work like this….
Awesome videos, I've done tons to my 2004 r53 thanks to you. I do have a new issue though. Any idea what would cause a clunking sound that I can feel lightly in the steering wheel? It only happens over small bumps while going straight, but does increase when accelerating. It's not rhythmic.
Great video sir 👍🏿
Thanks for a great video. My R53 had a torn passenger side inner boot. I bought a new aftermarket (Cardone) axle and did the swap out yesterday. Some MINI forums claim that aftermarket axles fail catastrophically, damaging other major, expensive components when they go. Given my sense that you have done this job many times, I suspect these doom and gloom prophecies are urban legends. Could you comment on this beyond what you said in the video?
Also, if the dust shield doesn't fit, you state it is not a problem. So what then, just don't install it?
I broke a breaker bar with a 5 foot cheater bar on it. That wheel high bolt would not budge on either side. Going to finally buy some impacts I guess lol
Greetings. I enjoy your videos. They've helped me a lot. Thanks. Changing CV axels. I cannot insert new one because there is a rod inside the transmission between the two axels blocking them from going in all the way. How do I get the rod between the axles to move or reposition itself so I can insert the new axles?
Also if you had any videos about the power steering pump that'd be great mine keeps leaking
TheTangent Show I think the r53’s had the power steering pumps warranty extended to 13 years or 150,000 miles last I checked. Of course mine failed at 160,000.
jonathan depaz is this US only or applicable in the UK as well?
Check with your dealer before changing or paying for a new steering pump!!!! My dealer said they saw was no mileage limitation.
I have a 2002 R53, 165k miles. I paid a trusted Mini repair company (not a dealer) to replace my steering pump with a used pump only to HAVE to take it to an actual dealer (non-dealer wasn't able to fix an error code. The dealer then replaced that used steering pump (and for some reason, fan) under a recall.
@modmini I messed up real bad! Your directions were great and I was re assembling the outer ball joint and snapped the bolts off! So I need some advice… do I try and drill them out or replace the knuckle? Please 🙏🏾
@modmini you are a lifesaver! These videos help us all so much! I did take some lumps, but that’s part of learning. Thank you again for keeping these videos up!
It looks easy. I’m finding that the bolts and subframe are become one with each other on my r53 thanks to lots of rust. It’s a nightmare
Excellent video! I had to replace my R50's cvt axles which caused a lot of fluid loss. Added a bit of oil through the correction port but now the mini wont even start for me to go through the leveling process, but rather it shows the EML had turned on. What would your diagnosis process walk through?
Getting ready to tackle the driver side, perfect timing for video. BTW, where did you get that creeper?
amzn.to/2M61dDu It's also on the list of all the Mod MINI tools here: amzn.to/2FwObxS
Wow what timing.. I just bought an r53 and I suspect it needs new axle/s and a new bearing. dull grinding noise from the driver side (UK) wheel.. jacked it up and passenger side is smooth.. freely spins, driver side slight grinding when rotating but doesn't change pitch/volume with speed (bearing or CV?). Also had a noise whilst turning that was only after a particular turn angle and apparently only whilst with acceleration.. like a rhythmic, repetitive thud. However, checked the tire pressures for the first time since buying the car and front left tire was 20 instead of 33 PSI.. pumping it up appears to have eliminated the rhymic sound whilst turning.. now worried if perhaps the axle has a problem. If I'm changing a bearing then may as well do the axles?
I have the exact symptom you describe. Had it since brand new.
Had the dealer mechanic test drive it with me, and after much inspection he said while it was unusual, nothing was wrong.
He suggested maybe the sound is because I have rather rare OEM limited slip differential. I wonder what Mod MINI san think of this?
Grinding means you need a hub. It's just held on by 4 bolts.
Limited slip included in MINI is not a clutch pack type and will not make that noise. If you only get noise while turning, then replace axle.
Taiyo Nakashima I also have the OEM LSD (at least I'm led to believe so by the Spec sheet.. need to check physically)
@@Murmur2k you must be the first person I hear of having that option!
I thought of replacing the axel, but now 284000 km's with CV boot replaced once, the axels are working fine with no signs of oddity, except the occasional click-click-click at low speed, at certain angles, with no acceleration. ( I always hear this at the exit down slope of a multi-story mall car park. )
Groaning type sound, I have replaced the hubs twice.
I never knew now the axels can be bought so cheaply. I might just try changing it to see if it changes anything.
Good job man. I sibscribed to you. I will buy a cooper s 2005 and for sure i will need to get dirty, but i like to work on cars
Mod MINI, thanks so much for these videos, they’re very helpful! Do you know if the CV axles for manual and automatic transmission R53’s are the same?
Not same
Hi, which keys it’s needed ? Thanks
I know this video is old and im not sure if ive asked you this before but what lift are you using in this car?
i didnt see any ABS ring did you have it ?
Kurt, awesome videos because of your videos we have been able to do a complete engine swap in our R53 and we are within a day of restarting the car. Bought new CVaxles but turned mine in as cores and I do not have the dust cover on the pass side in the inside. You say it's ok if it doesn't fit does that mean just don't worry about not having them? Also no dust seal on driver side either.
Not a big deal
I have a '02 with the 5 speed. Do you know if it requires an ABS ring on the axle shaft? I see some comments in forums that say the ring is on the wheel bearing hub, but others show the need to remove from the old axle.
Wonder if replacing the inner ball joints would be good at the same time. It seems easier to get them out when the axles are out.
They don't fail that frequently but might be good idea for very high mileage car.
Great video, thanks. Could you advise of the abs sensor needs removal prior to removing the driveshaft?
It can stay in place
I used this video to swap my axels and did my hubs as well. After this my ABS, DSC, and tire pressure lights went on. Is this from a wheel speed sensor? I'm not sure where to look or what to check. Thanks for all your videos!
Probably sensor, or your hub is not compatible. You'd need a scanner to know which sensor.
Awesome video Sir,... by the way, after installed new axles , should we do an alignment ? Thanks
Should be not necessary if you don't touch the struts or the tie rod ends.
Have you ever tried FEQ axles ? Are they a brand you recommend or should I stay away from putting on my r53?
Wondering if you have a link to the car lift you are using?
I need to do this soon 😓 but have to check my axle if i need to move the bracket onto the new one. Dont have a vise or a big hammer i think i can make it work? 😅
You can tap it off with a 4 pound dead blow hammer after removing snap ring
Hey Kurt, great job, as always! - love Your vids, thanks to you I've started turning the wrenches 👍
Wondering if You could help me solve my riddle... My wife is getting angry, as my latest "repairs" turn up to be disaster.
I've recently replaced transmission mount bushing and all suspension bits with Powerflex ones.
Then I've noticed that driver side axle boot on my r53 was torn.
Few hundred miles later, after hard launch from traffic lights,
boot was torn again, as result inner joint slipped out of the "cup", destroyed bushings etc.
I suspected that smoking gun was xenon level sensor - maybe it was too close to the boot, torn it and the disaster happend.
Cup stayed in transmission, C-clip intacted.
So I've ordered new axle, SKF VKJC 2596, as it is best available replacement around here (EU). 590mm long, good as OEM.
I've ensured that level sensor had enough clearence from boot (even bended the sensor mount a little),
installed axle, and... today (after 20 miles), during moderate pull in straight line, it happened again😒 (Cup stayed in its place, c-clip too)
What may be the reason?
Im suspecting that transmission + engine are somewhat "asymmetric" to the proper position,
so the driver axle has too much "play"? Or am I going nuts?
Mestro - help! My reputation is on the line!
I've heard this happens commonly with lowered cars. And be sure the axle has been pushed in all the way on installation.
@@ModMINI Thank You for reply Kurt.
Yes, thats true, I've heard about it too. Mine R53 isn't lowered, just powerflex bushings. Axle was all the way in...
I've asked around, since there is Mini r53 Cup in my town - Guys from the shop servicing those racing Mini's, said the same thing - lowered car.
They also claimed that SKF axles are trash, they are using Loebro/ Spidan only, since they switched to those, they have much less issues witch drivetrain.
They recommended to buy Loebro axle and put on shelf, just in case. Definitelly going to do that. S
So - maybe axle was the culprit.
Lately I was thinking - maybe wheel aligment was done wrong?
I got it done after powerflex work, and after doing that - the axle saga started ;)
Gsp loebro is The oem suplier for axles ....i think is The safest way to go....
Hey mod mini I love your videos they have helped me A LOT working on my own car, I have a question tho I need both axles and EVERYONE keeps saying go OEM or they will fail i would love to use the ones you did for cost reasons have you had good luck out of that brand of axles?
The DTA brand I share in this video have been fine and should be fine unless you are making 250HP or something.
I have vibration in my r53.
When I put a good amount of throttle at certain speed I notice a vibration, doesn’t matter what gear I am... when I stop the throttle, the vibration stops
Do you think is CV axles?
Thank you 🙏
Great Videos, these videos have helped me out so much really appreciate you taking the time to make them. I have a 2004 mini cooper s and it is making a knocking sound at low speeds, only in like 1st and 2nd. It feels like its coming from the driver side somewhere in the front end. And I really only notice it once I stop and start to go up through first again, like a steady knocking that fades away after about 15mph. Any thoughts?
Thanks for watching. My answer is the same as most times I get asked questions like this. There are to many variables and too many different ways people explain things to diagnose something like that remotely, even with video or audio. I'd have to see the car.
My daughters bf got a new duracrap drivers axle from autonone and axle will not stay in transmission???? It goes all the way in and everything bolts up fine. He took for a test drive and axle popped out of tranny.???? The snap ring is on new axle. Put old axle back in and it stays fine. We will need to change it back out because old axle is bad. Any ideas why the new axle won't stay in tranny? My thoughts are the duracrap axle is not to exact specs. Close enough to fit in but not to lock into place with snap ring.
Beef up performance axles for extra horse powered applications!?
What brand can you recommend?
@ 8:54
I love this video and know it was made quite sometime ago but hopefully you still review comments on here but I find your videos very helpful and I have a question that I’m hoping you can answer. I recently changed the struts on the front and the CV axle on the left side. The car ran perfect everything was great for a day. The next day when I took the car out I got about 100 yards and all of a sudden the car wouldn’t pull in itself, the shifter could go in and out of gears without pressing the clutch. I got the car towed back home and I’m still not sure what has happened. I took the wheel off the driver side and getting underneath there I seen that somehow that axle that I installed had popped out about an inch, then on closer inspection of the struts I realized that the pinch point loop is about an inch further down than the stock one. My question is if it’s that much longer does it have the ability to pull the axle out and if not what caused my failure?
Unlikely for the part to be a wrong length if the splines and everything fit. This is usually due to installer not pushing the shaft in all the way during installation or a lowered car.
Hey man I'm super glad you're up loading. Question for ya my clutch started squeeling and then started leaking oil any idea where that could be coming from? Got a clutch kit coming in but not sure what to do. Even tough it keeps breaking(r53) I just can't seem to break up with it haha
Clutches don't have any oil. Failed rear main seal maybe?
I bought these axles you recommended and they popped out while driving! I don't know if it was because of the lower ball joint being stripped or I got a bad batch of axles. It doesnt seem to stay in very well
Both sides? I have not seen issues with them popping out unless not installed correctly the car is seriously lowered. (Left side only)
What would cause the driver side axle to pop out? I got stranded by the driver side axle popping out. I replaced it. Got it aligned. And it popped out again.
What I have heard: Ensure put in completely. Check condition of circlip. Don't excessively lower car with lowering spring/coilover.
Do you know what size the bolts are that hold the passenger axle in place?
13mm head.
I got the tie rod off but I can’t disconnect the knuckle from the control arm because that bushing won’t pop out
Air hammer
reemplazo toda la homocinetica? solo porque trae el cubrepolvo roto, aqui en mexico se lo cambiamos y queda al 100 y solo le cobro unos 400 pesos mexicanos
Love your videos! But I need to ask... How the helllllll do you work with those knitted gloves on? You lose so much touch/dexterity I would imagine! Cheers :)
How do astronauts use tools on spacewalks? You get used to it. They protect my hands from injury, don't tear or get sweaty like thin rubber gloves, and I can work just as well with them on as without, unless I am fiddling with a bolt smaller than 8mm.
My Passenger side cv axle isn't sliding right in as your did, I have my carrier bracket lined up correctly but it won't slide into the transmission. What do I do?
Always goes in if you spin the axle around a little. Check splines, make sure axle is correct and undamaged.
Great video ModMini. I'm thinking of doing this on our 2005 Mini CVT automatic. Any difference to the procedure you detail here? Thanks.
It’s basically the same
@@ModMINI Thank you. Keep up the great work.
Question, you had to pound in the new driver side axle into the transy. Do you have to do the same for the passenger side? Thanks!
Passenger = Vehicle's right side? No.
Could you please help me ive bought a new cv axle for my 05 mini cooper s r53 and I thought it was ⅛ inch to long, so I had my original 1 rebuilt and now as I'm now trying to put my old axle back in its doing the same thing and the race baring bolts won't line up by ⅛ of an inch. So I no im doing somthing wrong.... PLEASE HELP!
I just replaced the drive (right) axle on my 04MCS. I drove it a few days and the axle came out while I was driving!!! it had walked out of the carrier bearing too. I guess I will tack weld it in place. Any idea why this happens? Thank you sooo much for your videos!!!!!
Circlip not properly seated?
@@ModMINI there is no clip on the right side (long one) I tack welded it to make sure that doesn't happen again. I have read that the aftermarket axles are just poorly designed. I had just done a supercharger change and replaced the axle. I had assumed something in the clutch or trans had broken so I had already dropped the subframe. I am gonna do a Valeo flywheel conversion. This is a new to me 04 MCS with just 70k miles. I sold my 06 MCS (over 200k) to get this one. Should be good after I get it all back togeher for the 2nd time.. heh
Mod MINI I need your help! Replaced my drivers side axle and it keeps backing out of the tranny. It’s from a 6 speed r53. Replaced the clip on the end and it still comes out by hand. Help!
People ask me this question but even working on dozens of cars, I've never had this problem. The general reason is not pushing hard enough and fully seating it. Pop it in like a slide hammer. If it popped out and you drove it like that, it may be very hard to put all the way back in if the splines are at all damaged.
Weird question, but my front suspension is out of the car right now for maintenance, do you think that this job is do-able without my suspension strut attached?
Knuckle will be flopping around but yes. Put something under it to support it.
I did this but now gears won't work what could it be
I frustratingly cant get the axle out of the hub. Let it soak in penetrating oil, attempted to use a axle puller....wont budge? ANY super secret tips? Should i just torch it and try the axle puller again?
Air Impact hammer
@@ModMINI thanks for the reply. I tried that, a torch, every puller i could rent from oriellys....wouldnt budge! Ended up having to bend the flap on the axle to squeeze through the knuckle to cut through 3" of axle behind the hub with a reciprocating saw. I needed new hubs anyways lol. thanks for all your great videos!
Hi. I have a 2008 Mini Cooper convertible base model and I ordered 2 axles from Amazon and they did not fit. So I took the original axle and I added the rubber piece but the damn axle won’t fully enter
I banged on it and the rubber broke again:(. I’m going to try and remove the axle and add a little grease to the rod that enters the gear box. Or maybe you can direct me to wear I can get the axle for it. It’s actually on the drivers side
Hey there I’m new to the mini community. Love the videos. I just replaced the drivers side axle due to a torn boot and everything was going as planned until I pulled out the axle and tranny fluid starting coming out? I stuffed a rag in as quick as I could but lost about 1/4 qt possibly a little more?? Am I completely screwed as I’ve read it’s really hard to add it back in? Any advice
Manual or automatic? If manual, just pull upper drain plug when car is on level and fill until it starts running back out.
Love your creeper ! what brand is that ?
creepex.com
Interesting video, I've the R55 clubman S & just tackled this job afew weeks ago.. both shafts, both seals, & a f/wheel bearing
The only difference is my carrier bearing has 2 bolts & theirs no cooling fan to remove.
Anyway, yes my cars fluid poured out, I'm surprised your didn't leak the fluid.
Anyway now in getting quite alot of sqeaking & abut or grinding sound from my front rh/wheel even tho it's all been replaced bearing & full shaft, I've checked the free movement & it's quiet as a mouse when on Axel stands. Any idea what could cause any of this.
I've also been noticing a sound from the Lh/rear wheel & it's already got a new wheel bearing but it still continues any ideas what it could be?
This video is for gen 1 MINI. Also car has to be flat (not lifted in the front) for gen 1 for fluid to not come out.
Try changing the wheel and maybe you have dodgy quality bearings?
What about the axle seals?
Hey there just fit cv joint left side but but when driver and turns to left side make lots noise I did check everything help
Metallic noise? Check that brake dust shield is not bent and hitting the disk.
Hello, I just did the axles on my 06 S, I lost one of the bolts that bolts to the axle bearing Carrier to the back of the motor. Could you possibly tell me what size bolt it is or where I could find one?
Sorry, I'd have to find and measure a bolt. You have one in your hand, so I guess you'll have to measure that. (it's measured in mm)
Question on the axles. I ordered the same ones from you link and there are slight differences in what I received and what was taken out. The end that goes into the transmission seems to have a different patter of the diagonal grooves that what was removed. It didn't want to slide in super easy and I didn't want to force so I took it out for now and am trying to see if they sent me the wrong axles. Another difference is in the larger plastic covers on the axle are totally cylindrical on the new ones but have indentations on the old ones (like what the ones in the amazon listing show). Is there a good way to tell if I have the correct axles? working on a 2003 cooper S with 6p manual.
I have installed those axles several times. If the part number matches the product link, (or even if it doesn't), I'd contact the seller. not sure what you mean by diagonal grooves or plastic covers. The axle should have splines on the input and output sides that match the transmission and the hub. There are no plastic parts, just the rubber boots.
Question: bought the axels and have a issue, the axels began making noice after about a week of use... Sounds like the the center support bearing is about to go down. Are this pre lubed????
Sealed bearing. Contact manufacturer I guess. I've not seen this problem after doing at least a dozen of these.
I've been going through a Abandoned JCW. Why are my Axles not sliding in... it won't go in at all.... it's duralast brand from autozone and I'm not sure what to do
There are two diffrent brands did you get the 34 spline count or the 33 spline count your transmission matters here
Hi, how should I replace the bearing on the axel I f the axel is ok. Same side. I'm just worried that new bearing gets damaged when I trie to slide it on the axle.
You'd have to press it on. Honestly it's probably easier to just replace the whole axle. They are pretty cheap.
I have one question. I have 2006 mini cooper and the tachometer sometime not working.any idea what is the problems?
I don't have experience with this, I think the tach/OBC unit can fail.
Does anyone have an image of what a good cv axel looks like when in the transmission? Like is it flush? Mine right cv axel is definitely not
Flush.