Thanks again for the review and the feedback on both color and printability. The experience led us to make Cast True Blue which is pretty easy to print and easier to burn out than the original Cast Purple.
couldn't find a printing profile for the elegoo mars 3 on your site, in the file named "all profiles" there is cast purple but no cast true blue. could you please upload one? :)
Happy to see Siraya Tech in the comments but confused as to why they failed to address the print profile issue mentioned in the video. I’ve wasted half of the bottle trying to find consistent results.
@@tc_obf Cast True Blue uses the same setting as Cast Purple. We noticed printers with tilt vat action like SL1, it can have a higher failure rate due to side motion. On the standard MSLA printer where the vat is stationary, True Blue prints as well as Purple. In general, castable resins are softer than model resins and should use a slow lift speed (48mm/min)
I can't print anything with this. No problem with the purple. With the blue all the models are broken. fractures, blow holes.... Edit: Perfect now! My lift speed was too high.
I feel like you rarely cover print temperature, especially since the manufacturers have recommended temperature ranges. It's possible many of your issues are temperature related.
Can anyone here help me out, I have elegoo mars pro 2 and I just bought siraya tech true blue for jewelry 3d prints and it is not working at all I’ve downloaded the settings from siraya tech and imported them to chitubox but it does not work. Any help would be appreciated
If you are used to using harder material you will have to double the amount of supports. If its a bed adhesion issue start increasing your initial exposure.
I thought the exposure settings for the Sirayatech purple cast are the same for blue cast so if you were printing with purple, why didn't you just try the same settings for the blue cast?
@@ClearMindJewellery interesting. Maybe I need to see their spreadsheet again with settings. Perhaps it’s different. Guess I should do test prints then. Thanks.
Seems Siraya castables just aren't worth the extra hassle to hope for a good print or casting over some of the slightly more expensive resins. The purple didn't work at all for me even with UV curing in glycerin but the same burnout and investment worked great with Bluecast X-One.
I am trying to use my Resin printer to do Lost Resin casting with Suspendaslurry of 30cm models. Any advice on doing larger models without cracking the ceramic shell in the burnout phase.
Resin and Ceramic Shell have a difficult time co-existing in a process. The resin wants to burn away prior to the Ceramic Shell being at its hardest. As resin has a greater level of expansion then wax, and the expansion forces increase with size edges will pop. Hollowing of models and wax gating are the current solutions we're experimenting with.
@@ClearMindJewellery Awesome, i’m currently printing a 22cm wedding statue with 3mm thick walls and otherwise completely hollow. i just built an electric furnace so I can control the burnout better, i haven’t heard of wax gating yet, but will look into that now! Thanks for replying. Would love any other advice you may have. The Suspenda Slurry costs 750 dollars here in Australia and I bought two 20lbs buckets of it, so keen to use it to get it working as I had a horrible time experimenting with investment plaster. Managed Lost PLA beautifully though, so really keen to see if I can do this with resin and suspendaslurry. I’ll let u know how i go
Can you clarify how you cure the blue cast? You described how you cured the purple cast in glycerin, but did you have to do that for blue cast? How exactly did you cure the blue cast please?
BlueCast is a different product from this. True Blue does not NEED to be cured in glycerin, although the glycerin helps if you are seeing issues in your castings. Post UV curing until the surface is smooth and clean. (basically just so no resin residue interacts with the water in your investment).
@@ClearMindJewellery thanks. And I believe the recommended print settings are the same for purple. (I successfully print purple cast). So I assume I should try same print settings.
How do you get rid of the supports without damaging the jewellery? I think True Blue is really brittle and every support breaks a piece out of my prints :(
A variety of snipping and other cutting tools, actually borrowing a lot of the small tools from our Cricket setup. We also do a post heat in the CW1 as that often makes the supports a little more limber. Were to the point in our supporting skills that we can get away with pre-attaching a spru and only having 0-5 support points apart from that, which makes clean up 10x easier. Also depending on your slicing software you can make those support heads super small if the design will allow it. And if all else fails take a small amount of wax and cover any pockmarks.
I’ve got my models washed and cured but have to wait to pour investment and do a burnout. Has anyone had success doing this or does the true blue continue to absorb water and oxygen after the wash and cure?
Also I used the exact same settings as the purple cast( sirayatechs recommendation). I printed with 1.00 mm tips on my supports and my very intricate skull came out perfect.
I have been having a hard time getting my Siraya Tech printed metal parts to come out with a clean metal surface like a wax injection model gives. I've increased my burnout max-temp hold-time to try to get less soot(?) on my casting but that didn't help. Thoughts?
With the purple it's a non-negotiable that you need a post cure with a glycerin or other barrier, and if there is any uncured resin remaining it will definitely ruin things. It could also be in regards to air circulation, flask position, spru angle, and size of print, in order to get proper combustion. Which will leave ash and cause texture on your castings.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thank you. I had been curing in glycerin immediately after cleaning resin residue off, including a sonic bath in hopes of getting it squeaky clean. Maybe I'm getting a chemical reaction with the tap water I'm using in my UltraVest investment. Thanks for posting the test. I look forward to seeing the final formula here.
Thank you for so much, after watching your videos I ended up buying the true blue resin, I work in the jewelry industry and I'm doing some tests with it too, and it's been amazing but I haven't done casting yet, and I would like to ask a question beforehand if possible for my casting out as best as possible 1- true blue resin, as soon as I take it out of the machine, I wash it with only alcohol, right? Or can I use water too? 2- cure, did you cure it only with glycerin or with UV as well? and how long? 3- Have you ever done any casting with diamonds? I saw tests with zirconia and I would like to know if brilliant would work out well. Thanks for your attention, thanks!
@@ClearMindJewellery Thanks for the answer, approximately how many minutes in glycerin? Is it normal for items to lose their blue color a little after washing in alcohol and drying?
So, forgive me if I missed it, what difference is there other than not having to post process in glycerin? Personally, I don't mind that step, and with how successful my prints have been using their OG purple casting resin, I'm afraid to stray away from it seeing that you say the blue is a little more finicky to print. I do larger models, the trophy part you cast is on the smaller end for me. It sounds like you were saying the blue may be better geared towards that? Thanks for the video, exciting that siraya is making another castable resin.
The printing is only finicky as at the time of recording as we were still running the product without a procedure from Siraya Tech. Our prints have become easier as the pre-testers, like ourselves, have been providing feedback. You are correct. In our books this new blue formulation has greater sculptural ability than the purple.
Hello! Thanks for the awesome video! Still I have one doubt: today I printed with Siraya Cast True Blue for the first time. I used the recommendations from the manufacturer (5 bottom layers, with exposure time of 60 sec for bottom layers and 6 seconds for the rest). I printed 2 calibration tests at the same time: the XP2 Validation Matrix and the Siraya Tech test. I got really confused because the Siraya test showed signs of underexposure (delamination, very fragile supports, and the cube didn't form right - one corner fell of it and the rest that remained attached was super deformed, like smashed), while the XP2 showed signs of overexposure; and they were from the same batch! Like, one next to the other! If I'm not mistaken, I saw on this video something like this happened to you, when at one print one object was fine and the other a disaster, and then the opposite occurred with the same settings right? Have you discovered why this happened or why could I get so conflicting results on two tests printed at the same time? As of now I'm truly grateful!
Could honestly be anything depending on your printer and other settings. From light off delay, lift speeds/distance, of if your printer has any interesting features like the prusa tilting bed.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thanks a lot for your attention! I have an Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra, with that ACF bed, maybe that's the problem 😅 and I kept the elevation speed at 45mm/sec as the manufacturer reccommends... I ran 2 more tests today, but I used only the XP2 Validation Matrix. On both of them I reduced the exposure time for the bottom layers to 53 seconds, and for the first one I used 5 sec for the other layers, and it came out almost good. Then the last one with the same 5 bottom layers and 53 sec for them, but reduced the exposure for the rest in a half second (4,5 sec for layer) and now I guess it's good enough... will be printing some small pieces to see what I can get with these parameters. I hope my reports here and your elucidation about it can help anyone who might be struggling with it, too!
Hi thanks for putting this content out it's been very helpful! After watching I went ahed and purchased the true blue from Amazon and have had 4 different print fails. I'm printing on a Elegoo Mars 2P ... I've tried the print profile directly from Siraya Tech but not getting good results, basically stops printing after platform and beginning supports. Hoping you can help with a print profile that works or any suggestions. Thanks!
as always a sincere review. this gives me hope. I've been failing at print and cast for about 3 years now. can you please post your burn out schedule ?
Ash can also be about spruing as well as burnout. Also if you aren't getting a good combustion (airflow, properly cured prints) the burnout won't solve the ash issue.
@@ClearMindJewellery I’ll try enlarging the sprue, as for curing I’ve tried 60 minutes cure for each side of a mold which is 120 minutes total. More than that?
Hey you have used asiga printer right ! I just wanted to ask is that printer good for actual jewellery business ? I want to see the difference between normal 3d printers like mars and elgoo vs asiga max 35x . Which printer is better for sharp details in jwellery casting?
You should watch our Asiga resin reviews as we should some prints on the Asiga and Mars 3 with the Asiga resin. Asiga was a much better printer for detail.
Hello everyone, I hope you are well! I recently purchased Siraya Tech Cast resin which melts in heat for making jewelry etc. and so I printed calibration cones for my printing parameters. So I do the post process, namely IPA then drying with compressed air then hot water for 30 seconds then cold water for 30 seconds then drying then curing in vegetable glycerin so that there is no oxygen in contact with the resin during curing. I clean the glycerin with water then for a little test I put it through a heat gun to see how it melts etc... and at the maximum power of my heat gun (I would say 300°C it sends wood) the part still didn't melt... there are several pieces that came off but nothing actually melted... I don't know if this is normal? and if anyone has already used it could they tell me how long you have to put it in the oven for it to melt when it's in the plaster! Thank you in advance for your valuable help!!
At 300C wax would be melting (or already melted) however although castable resin is created with wax like compounds its not wax and has a higher melt temp, for many it's not actually a melt temp but a burn ignition temp. For siraya they usually start 100 degrees higher than what you were at, around 450-500C, and to my experience they don't melt they burn. (Going from solid to gas.) Even Bluecasts XOne is more of a wilt then a melt, and then the ignition temp is super close to that melt temp so it only melts long enough to avoid the expansion issues some other resins have. - Shannon
@@ClearMindJewellery I have another question ! When I will submerge the print in plaster, when it is set, I put it at 450°C during how many time ? And I put the hole down or up ? Thank you !
Although the burn starts at 450C, approximately, it is still recommended that you get to the full burnout temp of 732C. We have been trialing a 6hr burnout (ua-cam.com/video/K1sa_qGZwU4/v-deo.html) where we ramp up from cold to 732C over 3-4 hours, sit at 732C for 1 hr, then ramp down to casting temperature and sit for approximately 30-60 minutes. We prefer to have the button down, while supporting the flask to allow airflow underneath (in other words not sitting flat on the fire brick). -Shannon
Thanks again for the review and the feedback on both color and printability. The experience led us to make Cast True Blue which is pretty easy to print and easier to burn out than the original Cast Purple.
couldn't find a printing profile for the elegoo mars 3 on your site, in the file named "all profiles" there is cast purple but no cast true blue. could you please upload one? :)
Happy to see Siraya Tech in the comments but confused as to why they failed to address the print profile issue mentioned in the video.
I’ve wasted half of the bottle trying to find consistent results.
@@tc_obf Cast True Blue uses the same setting as Cast Purple. We noticed printers with tilt vat action like SL1, it can have a higher failure rate due to side motion. On the standard MSLA printer where the vat is stationary, True Blue prints as well as Purple. In general, castable resins are softer than model resins and should use a slow lift speed (48mm/min)
I can't print anything with this. No problem with the purple. With the blue all the models are broken. fractures, blow holes.... Edit: Perfect now! My lift speed was too high.
@@sirayatech2 "True Blue prints as well as Purple" Fake. Edit: I was doing something wrong. Now is printing everything perfect.
Bro Can you show the settings of the chitu box please
Im doing 7second normal exposure for blu cast on Elegoo Saturn 2. Is that over exposing? Anyone doing less?
I feel like you rarely cover print temperature, especially since the manufacturers have recommended temperature ranges. It's possible many of your issues are temperature related.
When I wash the pieces in alcohol they are losing their color a little, turning light blue. it's normal?
What are the settings!!!!?
They meant 0.05mm, but yeah, a massive mistake that somehow wasn't caught.
I ordered some true blue, but no real parameters for my sonic 4k mini. can you help?
Can anyone here help me out, I have elegoo mars pro 2 and I just bought siraya tech true blue for jewelry 3d prints and it is not working at all I’ve downloaded the settings from siraya tech and imported them to chitubox but it does not work. Any help would be appreciated
If you are used to using harder material you will have to double the amount of supports. If its a bed adhesion issue start increasing your initial exposure.
I thought the exposure settings for the Sirayatech purple cast are the same for blue cast so if you were printing with purple, why didn't you just try the same settings for the blue cast?
Purple and True Blue are different formulas with the True Blue being softer. This means that settings will need to be adjusted for optimal results.
@@ClearMindJewellery interesting. Maybe I need to see their spreadsheet again with settings. Perhaps it’s different. Guess I should do test prints then. Thanks.
Seems Siraya castables just aren't worth the extra hassle to hope for a good print or casting over some of the slightly more expensive resins. The purple didn't work at all for me even with UV curing in glycerin but the same burnout and investment worked great with Bluecast X-One.
With XOne arguably having the highest “wax content” on the market. You’re comparing 🍎 to 🍊
Can you guys make one video focused in the cautions with resins? To avoid health problems, and How to discard correctly?
I am trying to use my Resin printer to do Lost Resin casting with Suspendaslurry of 30cm models. Any advice on doing larger models without cracking the ceramic shell in the burnout phase.
Resin and Ceramic Shell have a difficult time co-existing in a process. The resin wants to burn away prior to the Ceramic Shell being at its hardest. As resin has a greater level of expansion then wax, and the expansion forces increase with size edges will pop. Hollowing of models and wax gating are the current solutions we're experimenting with.
@@ClearMindJewellery Awesome, i’m currently printing a 22cm wedding statue with 3mm thick walls and otherwise completely hollow. i just built an electric furnace so I can control the burnout better, i haven’t heard of wax gating yet, but will look into that now! Thanks for replying. Would love any other advice you may have. The Suspenda Slurry costs 750 dollars here in Australia and I bought two 20lbs buckets of it, so keen to use it to get it working as I had a horrible time experimenting with investment plaster. Managed Lost PLA beautifully though, so really keen to see if I can do this with resin and suspendaslurry. I’ll let u know how i go
Anyone knows that if this resin works with Solus DLP printer? Thanks!
Can you clarify how you cure the blue cast? You described how you cured the purple cast in glycerin, but did you have to do that for blue cast? How exactly did you cure the blue cast please?
BlueCast is a different product from this. True Blue does not NEED to be cured in glycerin, although the glycerin helps if you are seeing issues in your castings. Post UV curing until the surface is smooth and clean. (basically just so no resin residue interacts with the water in your investment).
@@ClearMindJewellery thanks. And I believe the recommended print settings are the same for purple. (I successfully print purple cast). So I assume I should try same print settings.
0.5mm layer height? Very bold!
How do you get rid of the supports without damaging the jewellery? I think True Blue is really brittle and every support breaks a piece out of my prints :(
A variety of snipping and other cutting tools, actually borrowing a lot of the small tools from our Cricket setup.
We also do a post heat in the CW1 as that often makes the supports a little more limber.
Were to the point in our supporting skills that we can get away with pre-attaching a spru and only having 0-5 support points apart from that, which makes clean up 10x easier.
Also depending on your slicing software you can make those support heads super small if the design will allow it.
And if all else fails take a small amount of wax and cover any pockmarks.
Bro i have elegoo mars3 and still cant find good setting for chitubox, can you tell me?
Oh and i have the same resin in your video ,true blue
I’ve got my models washed and cured but have to wait to pour investment and do a burnout. Has anyone had success doing this or does the true blue continue to absorb water and oxygen after the wash and cure?
Also I used the exact same settings as the purple cast( sirayatechs recommendation). I printed with 1.00 mm tips on my supports and my very intricate skull came out perfect.
Thanks for the review! Bought a bottle let’s see how it goes!
I have been having a hard time getting my Siraya Tech printed metal parts to come out with a clean metal surface like a wax injection model gives.
I've increased my burnout max-temp hold-time to try to get less soot(?) on my casting but that didn't help.
Thoughts?
With the purple it's a non-negotiable that you need a post cure with a glycerin or other barrier, and if there is any uncured resin remaining it will definitely ruin things.
It could also be in regards to air circulation, flask position, spru angle, and size of print, in order to get proper combustion. Which will leave ash and cause texture on your castings.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thank you. I had been curing in glycerin immediately after cleaning resin residue off, including a sonic bath in hopes of getting it squeaky clean.
Maybe I'm getting a chemical reaction with the tap water I'm using in my UltraVest investment.
Thanks for posting the test. I look forward to seeing the final formula here.
Thank you for so much, after watching your videos I ended up buying the true blue resin, I work in the jewelry industry and I'm doing some tests with it too, and it's been amazing but I haven't done casting yet, and I would like to ask a question beforehand if possible for my casting out as best as possible
1- true blue resin, as soon as I take it out of the machine, I wash it with only alcohol, right? Or can I use water too?
2- cure, did you cure it only with glycerin or with UV as well? and how long?
3- Have you ever done any casting with diamonds? I saw tests with zirconia and I would like to know if brilliant would work out well.
Thanks for your attention, thanks!
Wash with alcohol don’t bother with water.
You cure siraya tech resins while the items are in a glycerin bath. So needs to be in a clear container.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thanks for the answer, approximately how many minutes in glycerin? Is it normal for items to lose their blue color a little after washing in alcohol and drying?
You show many different types of cast resins, but I would like to know what is your favorite resin for high quality prints, at the moment?
ua-cam.com/video/0XDt-r8N2nY/v-deo.html
@@ClearMindJewellery thanks, great videos
Do you think this resin will work for 0.2mm filigree???
i think it wont be good for jewelry
and what about the viscosity ?
Its thinner then, for example, a Resinworks Easycast 200 or 400, but similar to to others like the Apply Lab Work Cyan, Asiga S or X etc.
It will be a fine jewellery resin. Haven't tried super intricate filagree yet with it, but we are now printing full Mars 3 beds of signet rings.
For how long do you clean it in the alcohol?
for jewelry foundation which one would be better? blue or purple?
Depends on what kind of jewelry. Larger pieces blue, smaller pieces purple.
So, forgive me if I missed it, what difference is there other than not having to post process in glycerin? Personally, I don't mind that step, and with how successful my prints have been using their OG purple casting resin, I'm afraid to stray away from it seeing that you say the blue is a little more finicky to print. I do larger models, the trophy part you cast is on the smaller end for me. It sounds like you were saying the blue may be better geared towards that? Thanks for the video, exciting that siraya is making another castable resin.
The printing is only finicky as at the time of recording as we were still running the product without a procedure from Siraya Tech. Our prints have become easier as the pre-testers, like ourselves, have been providing feedback.
You are correct. In our books this new blue formulation has greater sculptural ability than the purple.
@@ClearMindJewellery Then that is exciting! Thanks y'all
hi can use Siraya Tech with Phrozen mini 8 K?
thnks
Many resins and printers are cross compatible, that combination would work yes.
Hello, can you pass the parameters of this resin.
How many minutes do u use on the Uv light ?
Approximately 10-15 minutes in 60 watt.
parametros dr dela siraya blue para anacuby photon 2 si alguien lo sabe por favor
Hello! Thanks for the awesome video! Still I have one doubt: today I printed with Siraya Cast True Blue for the first time. I used the recommendations from the manufacturer (5 bottom layers, with exposure time of 60 sec for bottom layers and 6 seconds for the rest). I printed 2 calibration tests at the same time: the XP2 Validation Matrix and the Siraya Tech test. I got really confused because the Siraya test showed signs of underexposure (delamination, very fragile supports, and the cube didn't form right - one corner fell of it and the rest that remained attached was super deformed, like smashed), while the XP2 showed signs of overexposure; and they were from the same batch! Like, one next to the other! If I'm not mistaken, I saw on this video something like this happened to you, when at one print one object was fine and the other a disaster, and then the opposite occurred with the same settings right? Have you discovered why this happened or why could I get so conflicting results on two tests printed at the same time? As of now I'm truly grateful!
Could honestly be anything depending on your printer and other settings. From light off delay, lift speeds/distance, of if your printer has any interesting features like the prusa tilting bed.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thanks a lot for your attention! I have an Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra, with that ACF bed, maybe that's the problem 😅 and I kept the elevation speed at 45mm/sec as the manufacturer reccommends... I ran 2 more tests today, but I used only the XP2 Validation Matrix. On both of them I reduced the exposure time for the bottom layers to 53 seconds, and for the first one I used 5 sec for the other layers, and it came out almost good. Then the last one with the same 5 bottom layers and 53 sec for them, but reduced the exposure for the rest in a half second (4,5 sec for layer) and now I guess it's good enough... will be printing some small pieces to see what I can get with these parameters. I hope my reports here and your elucidation about it can help anyone who might be struggling with it, too!
you cast them earrings boy?
Yes.
Hi there, could you tell please where i can find setting for this resin.
Between 5-7 seconds per layer works depending on your printer and the type of model.
Thank you for answer. I use Mars 3 and I have sonik mini 8k.
Teria um video do processo todos da cura e as configuracao para empresao
Hi thanks for putting this content out it's been very helpful! After watching I went ahed and purchased the true blue from Amazon and have had 4 different print fails. I'm printing on a Elegoo Mars 2P ... I've tried the print profile directly from Siraya Tech but not getting good results, basically stops printing after platform and beginning supports. Hoping you can help with a print profile that works or any suggestions. Thanks!
im currently haveing the same issues did you find the correct settings?
Aumente o tempo de exposição, irá melhorar muito
as always a sincere review. this gives me hope. I've been failing at print and cast for about 3 years now. can you please post your burn out schedule ?
Did one ages ago. Will probably redo it ua-cam.com/video/FdckYTV2rJg/v-deo.html
@@ClearMindJewellery oh yeah. Tried this once yet still had trouble with resin ashes
Ash can also be about spruing as well as burnout. Also if you aren't getting a good combustion (airflow, properly cured prints) the burnout won't solve the ash issue.
@@ClearMindJewellery I’ll try enlarging the sprue, as for curing I’ve tried 60 minutes cure for each side of a mold which is 120 minutes total. More than that?
Hey you have used asiga printer right ! I just wanted to ask is that printer good for actual jewellery business ? I want to see the difference between normal 3d printers like mars and elgoo vs asiga max 35x . Which printer is better for sharp details in jwellery casting?
You should watch our Asiga resin reviews as we should some prints on the Asiga and Mars 3 with the Asiga resin. Asiga was a much better printer for detail.
Hello everyone, I hope you are well! I recently purchased Siraya Tech Cast resin which melts in heat for making jewelry etc. and so I printed calibration cones for my printing parameters. So I do the post process, namely IPA then drying with compressed air then hot water for 30 seconds then cold water for 30 seconds then drying then curing in vegetable glycerin so that there is no oxygen in contact with the resin during curing. I clean the glycerin with water then for a little test I put it through a heat gun to see how it melts etc... and at the maximum power of my heat gun (I would say 300°C it sends wood) the part still didn't melt... there are several pieces that came off but nothing actually melted... I don't know if this is normal? and if anyone has already used it could they tell me how long you have to put it in the oven for it to melt when it's in the plaster! Thank you in advance for your valuable help!!
At 300C wax would be melting (or already melted) however although castable resin is created with wax like compounds its not wax and has a higher melt temp, for many it's not actually a melt temp but a burn ignition temp. For siraya they usually start 100 degrees higher than what you were at, around 450-500C, and to my experience they don't melt they burn. (Going from solid to gas.)
Even Bluecasts XOne is more of a wilt then a melt, and then the ignition temp is super close to that melt temp so it only melts long enough to avoid the expansion issues some other resins have. - Shannon
@@ClearMindJewellery thank you a lot for your ask answer and your advices ! Hello from France !
@@ClearMindJewellery I have another question ! When I will submerge the print in plaster, when it is set, I put it at 450°C during how many time ? And I put the hole down or up ? Thank you !
Although the burn starts at 450C, approximately, it is still recommended that you get to the full burnout temp of 732C. We have been trialing a 6hr burnout (ua-cam.com/video/K1sa_qGZwU4/v-deo.html) where we ramp up from cold to 732C over 3-4 hours, sit at 732C for 1 hr, then ramp down to casting temperature and sit for approximately 30-60 minutes.
We prefer to have the button down, while supporting the flask to allow airflow underneath (in other words not sitting flat on the fire brick). -Shannon
@@ClearMindJewellery Thank you one hundred times ! That is really helping me
Can you do a video of your top 3 favorite resins?
Where can I purchase
amzn.to/3BuGyTT