Just a quick safety tip for you my friend. if you are going to be smelling the resin you should open the lid and then use your hand to waft the smell towards your nose. This allows you to still get the smell while reducing the ammount of resin particales that you are exposed to. As a chemist we use this technique when we need to smell stuff to help keep our exposure to chemicals to a miniumum thus keeping us safer.
Came to comments to give the same advice. I see many youtubers smell chemicals directly. First thing we learned in high school chemistry class was how to safely smell unknown substances. Is that not taught everywhere?
I’m binging your resin test videos right now because they’re probably the most informative, comprehensive, and well packaged reviews I’ve found. I’d really like to see you try some resione resins to see how they stack up. They’ve got a large range of resins I’ve been trying out lately, and they seem like they are willing to send samples to creators if you requested some. I’d be curious how their m58, m68, TH-72, K, K+, and Anti-Impact resins would compare to what you’ve reviewed so far
I think the word was orange. One of the best videos I have seen. Someone finally pit some actual scientific evidence behind the test verse just bending and dropping. Great job.
I'm new to resin printing and this was good information. I tried my first prints with Elegoo water washable resin and haven't gotten a successful print yet. Very low odor, but lots of failures. Going to try Siraya resins next. Keep it up!
These are the best review videos that I have seen, you have helped me so much. I’m hoping your channel can take off cause I definitely wouldn’t want to see you stop.
@NoizieWorks siraya tech's "fast" line is a fair compromise. It's cheaper than tenacious and much less brittle than Elegoo resins. I'm still looking for a resin suitable for gaskets and tires. Something closer to the TPU that FDM printers use. Any ideas?
EXTREMELY PROFESSIONAL VIDEO! Thanks sop much for showcasing all of your tests! This was AMAZING for me to learn the differences between the Siraya resins, newcomer to resin printing. Quick question: I know Siraya recommends baking the Blu resin after curing to remove all moisture. Did you do this before your test prints or are these unbaked? Just curious
Glad i could help bud 🤟 after washing i leave them to airdry for at least 1 night and then cure it. So no baking it also wouldn't be fair to all other testing to anneal 1 and not another. The heating or annealing should have a positive effect on most resins but i think that's for another video 😉
1st vid of yours I’ve come across. Nice sonic cleaner, I’ve got its brother. Keep it in the garage because it’s sooo loud. But it’s been working well for us for several years. As we use the cleaner for other items than just resin prints (and for safety we don’t put IPA directly in the sonic cleaner), we put our prints in 91%IPA inside a heavy duty ziploc and put that in warm water inside the sonic cleaner. Thanks for the vid! As always YMMV. Just sharing, nothing more, nothing less. Not associated with any brands I mention having/using other than as a paying customer Have a good’un now!
I think they said you're supposed to mix the tenacious instead of using it all on its own. I'd like to see a test video with various mixes... like 50/50 Blu and tenacious, 33% of all 3, 80/20, 90/10 etc and see what works the best. I want to make some gears but find most resins are too chalky when used for functional parts so I'd be curious to see if something works. Also you should have way more subscribers you have some of the best resin tests I've seen. Glad I found your channel hopefully a lot more people find it as well. I'll keep commenting to feed the algorithm 😂
Thanks baby jesus 🙂 it's like a 95A tpu that can be used as a flexibel resin but yes that would be a great test. It's on the future planning for sure 🤟
Siraya Fast Mecha is supposed to be fantastic for gears, it doesn't get chalky at all. 80/20 Fast Mecha/Tenacious mix is almost ideal for strong gears, just a bit more friction.
Orange you glad you took the time to do all of this resin testing? I am! Thank you. I'm new to your channel. Have you done testing on the Siraya Tech Tough engineering resin. User comments look promising with several folks using a 50% Tough 50% Tenacious Mix.
I just got the tenacious clear expecting more of a rubber or silicone-like result and was surprised at how hard the fully cured pieces were. Not at all brittle, don't get me wrong, but does not have the elasticity that I expected. I had to put a lot of force into a 5mm x 5mm piece to bend it, but it bent almost 180 degrees and didn't break. This stuff won't snap easily like other resins but won't work for gaskets, shock absorbers, etc. Additionally, the supports are extremely easy to remove from the printed part with the addition of hot water. Removing the raft from the build plate is another matter. Use a metal putty knife and scrape from the sides. You have to hit it harder than you think. I'm loath to put my build plate in water but I may try a hair dryer to heat up the raft next time. Not sure if that'll help.
@kenengel620 thanks for the comment! The biggest use case is mixing it with stiffer/shit resins but i have done a crapload of resins now and it's hard to justify mixing this expensive resin to get better properties when you have sube 25$ resins doing the same thing like the sunlu abs like. I also thought it would be more flexible but like you're experience it's pretty stiff if you print it thick.
i would love to see the Sunlu Nylon Like included next. From what i experienced, its not softer than the ABS but still slightly more bendable and also seems to have better elasticity with less creeping, so it endures stress over time better and returns to its original form better.
Merci beaucoup pour toutes ces vidéos qui me donnent tant de réponses aux questions que je me pose pour imprimer en résine ! Je n'ai pas d'oranges mais j'ai une Saturn 2 et je tente de fabriquer des pièces mécaniques en résine 3D. Donc j'ai compris que la route serait longue, sauf que tu es arrivé et tu m'as propulsé quelques centaines d'heures en avant ! J'aimerais donc te poser la question qui me brûle les lèvres à ce jour : si tu dois imprimer un capot de machine de 250 mm de haut sur ma Saturn 2 (donc une coque ouverte, pas possible en horizontal sur ma machine trop petite) ou sur ta Jupiter, tu choisirais : 1/ quelle résine ? 2/ quels paramètres d'impression pour la base et les couches suivantes ? Actuellement j'ai réussi des pièces avec un mélange Siraya BLU Nylon Black et Siraya Build Smocky Black (plus fluide) à 50%/50% mais j'ai un peu de warping peut-être à cause de la Build ? J'utilise Chitubox Basic v2.2.0 comme slicer + UVTools pour affiner les paramètres et pour tous ses utilitaires de test. Une suggestion : pourrais-tu nous parler de l'impression directe sur le plateau car c'est très pratique pour la réalisation de pièces mécaniques. Merci encore et longue vie à ton excellente chaîne ! P.S. mes deux références en technique d'impression 3D résine : blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/01/prints-not-sticking-to-the-build-plate-layer-separation-rough-surface-on-a-resin-printer-resin-viscosity-the-common-denominator/ github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/wiki/Rest-times-and-TSMC Pardon pour l'anglais mais je suppose que tu parles bien le français également 😉.
My French is actually terrible even for a Belgian citizen, never have to use it so it's mostly gone. Long live translate! I actually have profiles posted with my "goldy locks" profiles for the S3U and the Jupiter and all my optimal support settings. Give them a try you can find them in the community tab. Key for flat on builplate prints is a lot of transition layers and 1 bottom exposure layer(it's in the profiles) with more then 1,5 seconds of rest time after retract. After that ACF is definitely going to help in the jupiter to reduce the peel forces and for resin the most confident i would be for these kind of prints is going to be Jamghe art/engineering and the nova 3d engineering. Jamghe has a bit more flexibility and nova is a lot stronger and stiffer. If possible hollow the prints out and make sure to put in some vent holes close to the buildplate. and print hot! 30C+ if possible. And even then with consumer printers and resin it's still going to be a bit of a coin flip.
Dimensional accuracy, if you print flat on the buildplate you don't have control over thickness of your object as it's always off depending of your levelling
I like Siraya Tech Fast for display models, Siraya Tech Build for precise parts and good heat tolerance and Blu for mixing with Tenacious to create really tough parts. Siraya Tech Fast comes in White which I can colour to make oranges 😊
The way you swirl the resin, I expected some mention of cherries or a hint of blackberry. Certainly not orange... I've used the Tenacious in mixes but it's interesting that's its intended use as opposed to something learned by hobbyists.
Ah yes, like fine wine that ties to kill you.... slowley. In the future i will try mixing it to see what happens with brittle resins, i have a quess what's going to happen but i had to eat my words a few times now so 🥼🤓
It's interesting but as someone who mostly prints miniatures Sunlu ABS pound for pound is my go to resin. I've gone through 4 bottles in a short time and they're extremely consistent, and miniatures don't break when they get dropped. When I need to print a more practical part I've been using 3DMaterials Super PP resin.
I would love to see how these resins resist heat. what temps do they start to get soft at... what temps can they handle and keep their shapes. But great vid!
I can answer this right now only the resins made for high heat perform good the rest not so much and get flexibel at 40 celcius and higher. Thanks dude!
Interesting and helpful vid but I have one small criticism: It looked like you were drilling your holes with a hand drill; if so the tapping hole could vary quite a bit in size (resin being quite soft) and this could therefore give misleading results. A better way would be to use a pillar drill and to make the final tapping size using a 6.8mm reamer. Still a thumbs up from me though!
There are plans to do some things like this with data but i have 3 more resin line ups so it's gonna take a while 🙂 hope to get around it in a few months
Siraya tech blu getting dark/smokey? 😮 Thats a first for me, mine was pretty clear, light blue after printing. Looked gorgeous and i used it for usable parts with threads. They still work great after months of heavy use, you can definitely print functional designs with that one
@@NoizieWorks Oh yes, for sure. I got a few bottles as a payment for commissioned work so that's why I won't complain about the price. I find it weird that yours changed colour though, my prints look just like the ones they show on their website. Also no loss in detail that I could see, I used it for a ruler with millimeter scale, very small text on it and a nut with a fine thread to move the ruler. It all came out perfectly. I remember my print settings being vastly different from any other resin I used but I can't check it right now
@@ReDsHorde Yes they are a slower curing resin then other brands, the color being a bit transparant is mostly because of thin prints. After that it gets opaque. Another thing i find to be frustrating is they now have 3 or 4 kinds of this stuff all with different mechanical properties so it could be that you have something that's a lot less transparent. A bit confusing as they are all the same "blu series"
@@NoizieWorks Yeah, well I assumed only the original blue is the real "blu". I think it was the only option back when I got it I'll definitely give the other resins that you featured here a go next time I need something tough, their price is very enticing
I absolutely love these test videos cant wait to see more! Im getting sunlu abs like flexible arriving today i want to test this as so cheap to this rubbish elegoo 2.0 abs like with super high exposure just to get it to print correctly at 4.8 Nor exp
Yes i have and i am going to test it on some poor resin to see what it does. You mean conjure instead of blu? Then yes i would definitely try it as i found the conjure to perform better.
I'll definitely give it a shot. This is the first I'm hearing of the company. Loved the video. Very informative. Might get a little additional value from them if you gave the info for exposure time and layer height too! I know the Facebook groups are always looking for the "easy answer" in those realms.
I like Siraya Tech. I build RC Submarines water tight containers and use it from gears to bulkheads. Consistently good. Orange is that the correct code? I don't know. Anyways, working on mixes to maximize durability during drop (which will happen) and firmness.
@@NoizieWorks 80/20 or 90/10 I need to test or you can save me a lot and do that for me LOL. There is a person that makes racing car parts that mixes 80% Phrozen tr250 High Temp Resin, 10% Siraya Tech Tenacious Resin, 10% Siraya Tech Blu Resin interesting video: ua-cam.com/video/jiUIb87fvGQ/v-deo.html Keep up the great work!
@@NoizieWorks 80/20 mix - 80 of whatever resin to 20 of Tenacious is the demonstrated general optimal mix. Kind of like a strong "screwdriver" - 80 %vodka, 20% ORANGE juice, but interestingly if you use grapefruit juice it is a "greyhound".
@@NoizieWorks Can't wait! Personally I lover to see how Tenacious compares to other flexible resins, an then the ideal blends to optimize durability and strength for functional prints.
@@mackenziebrown6881 it's not going to be soon soon but it's planned. Need to do some research on blends etc for the tenacious. Let's hope this video and the latest sunlu testing gauntlet perform well so i can afford it 😅cause i don't think they are going to ship more liquid gold for 2K views 🤞
Siraya tech is my favorite resin of the 4 or 5 brands I've tried. Any cubic is by far the worst. I couldn't even get one print to stick to my build plate with Any cubic. It's not even worth buying. Siraya is worth any extra cost for sure.
Allways had great prints with Anycubic resin and their printers, even with Saturn 8k they resin is good. If you lift he bottom exposure i bet they will stick to the build plate. The worst i used is Elegoo 8k i cant get good prints with that one. Now i usually use Sunlu and its cheap and good.
Beyond research and testing there is ZERO justification for these absurd prices. They are using common chemicals that are dirt cheap, easy to mix, have very good shelf life and beyond finding that perfect mix and combination there is no other cost they could use to justify why the are trying to get us to think there is some value. Bottom line is their cost to manufacture is fractional compared to retail price. I suspect when it becomes more common knowledge how to source these chemicals and end users figure out how to make them themselves the greed train will come to an end, until then the consumer is stuck paying these ludicrous prices!
There seems to be a lot of hushush around how it's made and this is true for any brand so far. The fact it's not as easy to make like melting pellets for filament gives them enough security that people making it themselfs is not a problem for them. I'm also from the opinion that most plastics and chemicals are dirt cheap and a easy cash grab to fund side projects like 3d printers where there is lower margins.
Do you know why I don't subscribe and like the video? For a simple reason - you wasted 23 minutes of my time on information which can be delivered within 10 seconds. Make videos shorter and better summarized and people will like it.
Thanks for the feedback but you are on the wrong channel then. There is a timeline to skip around with conclusions at the end. I do try to better summarize at the end in the following video's and the vids comming.
This feels like some unnecessary cruelty. This video has great time codes for jumping through if you are in a hurry, but understanding the methodology gives more value to the numbers and the applications themselves. If you want exclusively infographics maybe avoid watching videos.
Just a quick safety tip for you my friend. if you are going to be smelling the resin you should open the lid and then use your hand to waft the smell towards your nose. This allows you to still get the smell while reducing the ammount of resin particales that you are exposed to. As a chemist we use this technique when we need to smell stuff to help keep our exposure to chemicals to a miniumum thus keeping us safer.
Thanks for the tip!
Chefs/cooks do that too. Hygienic as well as you don’t get a face full of steam 🥵
Came to comments to give the same advice. I see many youtubers smell chemicals directly. First thing we learned in high school chemistry class was how to safely smell unknown substances. Is that not taught everywhere?
Not doing it anymore so we can put a wrap on this
I’m binging your resin test videos right now because they’re probably the most informative, comprehensive, and well packaged reviews I’ve found. I’d really like to see you try some resione resins to see how they stack up. They’ve got a large range of resins I’ve been trying out lately, and they seem like they are willing to send samples to creators if you requested some. I’d be curious how their m58, m68, TH-72, K, K+, and Anti-Impact resins would compare to what you’ve reviewed so far
Thanks! And i have them sitting on the bench 😉 waiting for the impact tester to be ready
Great, proffesional testing. Helped a lot. Thank you!
I'm mixing the Siraya Build with Siraya Tenacious 80/20 and I get very strong practical parts with them..Very impressed with these two.
I think the word was orange. One of the best videos I have seen. Someone finally pit some actual scientific evidence behind the test verse just bending and dropping. Great job.
🫡 thanks
Realy helping me, all your oranges testing ! It Will save me a lot of time. Thank you so much
Very good job, thank you for comparing them! 🤝
I'm new to resin printing and this was good information. I tried my first prints with Elegoo water washable resin and haven't gotten a successful print yet. Very low odor, but lots of failures. Going to try Siraya resins next. Keep it up!
I have a resin tierlist if you want short form top picks
Siraya is great. Thanks for this interesting video.
man what do you do as your day-to-day yob? You must be some engineer right?
Your tests and reviews are amazing!
I'm a electromechanical maintenance technician in a factory plant. Thanks dude 🤟 i'm giving it my best in every video.
These are the best review videos that I have seen, you have helped me so much. I’m hoping your channel can take off cause I definitely wouldn’t want to see you stop.
Thanks i really appreciate it! I'm already happy that most company's are happy to send samples for testing 😁
Great information. Thanks for the video!
I use Sunlu ABS with 10/15% Siraya Tech and it works great.
@NoizieWorks siraya tech's "fast" line is a fair compromise. It's cheaper than tenacious and much less brittle than Elegoo resins.
I'm still looking for a resin suitable for gaskets and tires. Something closer to the TPU that FDM printers use. Any ideas?
I really like Siraya Tech resin, its been great for what I do at my day job.
EXTREMELY PROFESSIONAL VIDEO! Thanks sop much for showcasing all of your tests! This was AMAZING for me to learn the differences between the Siraya resins, newcomer to resin printing.
Quick question: I know Siraya recommends baking the Blu resin after curing to remove all moisture. Did you do this before your test prints or are these unbaked? Just curious
Glad i could help bud 🤟 after washing i leave them to airdry for at least 1 night and then cure it. So no baking it also wouldn't be fair to all other testing to anneal 1 and not another.
The heating or annealing should have a positive effect on most resins but i think that's for another video 😉
@@NoizieWorks Hope you end up making more resin vids in the future, you do a great job with 'em! A bake vid would be very cool
1st vid of yours I’ve come across. Nice sonic cleaner, I’ve got its brother. Keep it in the garage because it’s sooo loud. But it’s been working well for us for several years. As we use the cleaner for other items than just resin prints (and for safety we don’t put IPA directly in the sonic cleaner), we put our prints in 91%IPA inside a heavy duty ziploc and put that in warm water inside the sonic cleaner.
Thanks for the vid!
As always YMMV. Just sharing, nothing more, nothing less.
Not associated with any brands I mention having/using other than as a paying customer
Have a good’un now!
Oooo yes it's super loud 😅 i have a glass bottom ikea tub that floats in regular water now. Works great. Thanks for watching!
I think they said you're supposed to mix the tenacious instead of using it all on its own. I'd like to see a test video with various mixes... like 50/50 Blu and tenacious, 33% of all 3, 80/20, 90/10 etc and see what works the best. I want to make some gears but find most resins are too chalky when used for functional parts so I'd be curious to see if something works.
Also you should have way more subscribers you have some of the best resin tests I've seen. Glad I found your channel hopefully a lot more people find it as well. I'll keep commenting to feed the algorithm 😂
Thanks baby jesus 🙂 it's like a 95A tpu that can be used as a flexibel resin but yes that would be a great test. It's on the future planning for sure 🤟
Siraya Fast Mecha is supposed to be fantastic for gears, it doesn't get chalky at all.
80/20 Fast Mecha/Tenacious mix is almost ideal for strong gears, just a bit more friction.
Orange you glad you took the time to do all of this resin testing? I am! Thank you. I'm new to your channel. Have you done testing on the Siraya Tech Tough engineering resin. User comments look promising with several folks using a 50% Tough 50% Tenacious Mix.
It's on the planning but not soon soon. BTW thanks dude 🤟
I just got the tenacious clear expecting more of a rubber or silicone-like result and was surprised at how hard the fully cured pieces were. Not at all brittle, don't get me wrong, but does not have the elasticity that I expected. I had to put a lot of force into a 5mm x 5mm piece to bend it, but it bent almost 180 degrees and didn't break. This stuff won't snap easily like other resins but won't work for gaskets, shock absorbers, etc.
Additionally, the supports are extremely easy to remove from the printed part with the addition of hot water. Removing the raft from the build plate is another matter. Use a metal putty knife and scrape from the sides. You have to hit it harder than you think. I'm loath to put my build plate in water but I may try a hair dryer to heat up the raft next time. Not sure if that'll help.
@kenengel620 thanks for the comment! The biggest use case is mixing it with stiffer/shit resins but i have done a crapload of resins now and it's hard to justify mixing this expensive resin to get better properties when you have sube 25$ resins doing the same thing like the sunlu abs like. I also thought it would be more flexible but like you're experience it's pretty stiff if you print it thick.
Very nice video. Thanks.
i would love to see the Sunlu Nylon Like included next. From what i experienced, its not softer than the ABS but still slightly more bendable and also seems to have better elasticity with less creeping, so it endures stress over time better and returns to its original form better.
Great work!
Amazing video, thanks for sharing
What tapping bits do you recommend for working with Siraya Tech Build models? Thank you in advance.
As far as i know there are 2 types, the 3 stage and machine tap which i use. It's a once and done no need to "break" the thread
Merci beaucoup pour toutes ces vidéos qui me donnent tant de réponses aux questions que je me pose pour imprimer en résine !
Je n'ai pas d'oranges mais j'ai une Saturn 2 et je tente de fabriquer des pièces mécaniques en résine 3D.
Donc j'ai compris que la route serait longue, sauf que tu es arrivé et tu m'as propulsé quelques centaines d'heures en avant !
J'aimerais donc te poser la question qui me brûle les lèvres à ce jour :
si tu dois imprimer un capot de machine de 250 mm de haut sur ma Saturn 2 (donc une coque ouverte, pas possible en horizontal sur ma machine trop petite) ou sur ta Jupiter, tu choisirais :
1/ quelle résine ?
2/ quels paramètres d'impression pour la base et les couches suivantes ?
Actuellement j'ai réussi des pièces avec un mélange Siraya BLU Nylon Black et Siraya Build Smocky Black (plus fluide) à 50%/50% mais j'ai un peu de warping peut-être à cause de la Build ?
J'utilise Chitubox Basic v2.2.0 comme slicer + UVTools pour affiner les paramètres et pour tous ses utilitaires de test.
Une suggestion : pourrais-tu nous parler de l'impression directe sur le plateau car c'est très pratique pour la réalisation de pièces mécaniques.
Merci encore et longue vie à ton excellente chaîne !
P.S. mes deux références en technique d'impression 3D résine :
blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/01/prints-not-sticking-to-the-build-plate-layer-separation-rough-surface-on-a-resin-printer-resin-viscosity-the-common-denominator/
github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/wiki/Rest-times-and-TSMC
Pardon pour l'anglais mais je suppose que tu parles bien le français également 😉.
My French is actually terrible even for a Belgian citizen, never have to use it so it's mostly gone.
Long live translate!
I actually have profiles posted with my "goldy locks" profiles for the S3U and the Jupiter and all my optimal support settings.
Give them a try you can find them in the community tab.
Key for flat on builplate prints is a lot of transition layers and 1 bottom exposure layer(it's in the profiles) with more then 1,5 seconds of rest time after retract.
After that ACF is definitely going to help in the jupiter to reduce the peel forces and for resin the most confident i would be for these kind of prints is going to be Jamghe art/engineering and the nova 3d engineering. Jamghe has a bit more flexibility and nova is a lot stronger and stiffer. If possible hollow the prints out and make sure to put in some vent holes close to the buildplate. and print hot! 30C+ if possible. And even then with consumer printers and resin it's still going to be a bit of a coin flip.
@@NoizieWorks ok thanks a lot for these advices I will give it a try.
Have a nice sunny life !
@scarabe-ing best of luck brother! Keep me updated
Good info, thanks
Enter secret code here to unlock 10% faster print speed! Print profiles for chitu and lychee added to description
🍊
🦧🟠 (orangutan ape eating an orange)
🤔🙂
Thank you. Very helpful. You didnt say if it was the color orange, or flavor orange though. :)
Whatever floats your orange 😆
Thanks for this! It informed my choice for some mechanical assemblies. Have you done similarly rigorous testing of "nylon like" resins?
No not yet, Thanks for watching!
Is there a reason not to print those ppart directely on the build plate rather than adding supports ?
Dimensional accuracy, if you print flat on the buildplate you don't have control over thickness of your object as it's always off depending of your levelling
I like Siraya Tech Fast for display models, Siraya Tech Build for precise parts and good heat tolerance and Blu for mixing with Tenacious to create really tough parts.
Siraya Tech Fast comes in White which I can colour to make oranges 😊
This is great. Thanks1
The way you swirl the resin, I expected some mention of cherries or a hint of blackberry. Certainly not orange...
I've used the Tenacious in mixes but it's interesting that's its intended use as opposed to something learned by hobbyists.
Ah yes, like fine wine that ties to kill you.... slowley. In the future i will try mixing it to see what happens with brittle resins, i have a quess what's going to happen but i had to eat my words a few times now so 🥼🤓
It's interesting but as someone who mostly prints miniatures Sunlu ABS pound for pound is my go to resin. I've gone through 4 bottles in a short time and they're extremely consistent, and miniatures don't break when they get dropped. When I need to print a more practical part I've been using 3DMaterials Super PP resin.
Yeah it's a hard to beat resin for the price
Mind if I ask how's the smell of the Sunlu ABS is? I'm using anycubic's standard grey now and it's awefull smell..
Smell is very soft on the abs
I am going to try it definitely.
I would love to see how these resins resist heat. what temps do they start to get soft at... what temps can they handle and keep their shapes. But great vid!
I can answer this right now only the resins made for high heat perform good the rest not so much and get flexibel at 40 celcius and higher. Thanks dude!
@@NoizieWorks of the high temps resin which ones offer the best toughness?
@@asocialconsciousness8535 haven't tested high temp so far. Maybe in the future.
Interesting and helpful vid but I have one small criticism: It looked like you were drilling your holes with a hand drill; if so the tapping hole could vary quite a bit in size (resin being quite soft) and this could therefore give misleading results. A better way would be to use a pillar drill and to make the final tapping size using a 6.8mm reamer. Still a thumbs up from me though!
You are absolutly right in a scientific perspective and i appriciate the comment 🙂
I want to try Sunlu Abs + S. Tenacious @ ~12.5%
There are plans to do some things like this with data but i have 3 more resin line ups so it's gonna take a while 🙂 hope to get around it in a few months
Are any of the stats for these tests and similar on other resins in a spreadsheet somewhere?
The slides are available for the youtube members of the channel.
Did u try the waterwashable from siraya tech ? if yes, what about the smell ?
Not yet but in general siraya is more from the stinky kind
@@NoizieWorks arf... do you know any resin with a not that bad smell ? water washable would be perfect
On top of my head i think the nova,aceaddity,jamghe waterw are pretty good for the smell.
Siraya tech blu getting dark/smokey? 😮
Thats a first for me, mine was pretty clear, light blue after printing. Looked gorgeous and i used it for usable parts with threads. They still work great after months of heavy use, you can definitely print functional designs with that one
Yes, good resin for that but a bit expensive imo
@@NoizieWorks Oh yes, for sure. I got a few bottles as a payment for commissioned work so that's why I won't complain about the price. I find it weird that yours changed colour though, my prints look just like the ones they show on their website. Also no loss in detail that I could see, I used it for a ruler with millimeter scale, very small text on it and a nut with a fine thread to move the ruler. It all came out perfectly. I remember my print settings being vastly different from any other resin I used but I can't check it right now
@@ReDsHorde Yes they are a slower curing resin then other brands, the color being a bit transparant is mostly because of thin prints. After that it gets opaque.
Another thing i find to be frustrating is they now have 3 or 4 kinds of this stuff all with different mechanical properties so it could be that you have something that's a lot less transparent.
A bit confusing as they are all the same "blu series"
@@NoizieWorks Yeah, well I assumed only the original blue is the real "blu". I think it was the only option back when I got it
I'll definitely give the other resins that you featured here a go next time I need something tough, their price is very enticing
@@ReDsHorde have fun testing it 😉
I absolutely love these test videos cant wait to see more! Im getting sunlu abs like flexible arriving today i want to test this as so cheap to this rubbish elegoo 2.0 abs like with super high exposure just to get it to print correctly at 4.8 Nor exp
I'm sure you've heard of the mixing strategies with Blu and Tenacious; would you consider Conjure to be in the same boat as an additive?
Yes i have and i am going to test it on some poor resin to see what it does. You mean conjure instead of blu? Then yes i would definitely try it as i found the conjure to perform better.
I'll definitely give it a shot. This is the first I'm hearing of the company. Loved the video. Very informative.
Might get a little additional value from them if you gave the info for exposure time and layer height too! I know the Facebook groups are always looking for the "easy answer" in those realms.
Thanks dude! I used the stock siraya tech profiles for the jupiter.
@@NoizieWorks where are these stock profiles? Does lychee have these?
Here you go, for chitu and lychee drive.google.com/drive/folders/1eCz4_dc0fT-jfBLp4L9mKYebY90lfHHO
I like Siraya Tech. I build RC Submarines water tight containers and use it from gears to bulkheads. Consistently good. Orange is that the correct code? I don't know. Anyways, working on mixes to maximize durability during drop (which will happen) and firmness.
Yes it is 😅 enjoy the 10% extra print speed. What is a popular tenacious mix at this moment? I read a lot of 80/20 mix
@@NoizieWorks 80/20 or 90/10 I need to test or you can save me a lot and do that for me LOL. There is a person that makes racing car parts that mixes 80% Phrozen tr250 High Temp Resin, 10% Siraya Tech Tenacious Resin, 10% Siraya Tech Blu Resin interesting video: ua-cam.com/video/jiUIb87fvGQ/v-deo.html Keep up the great work!
@@NoizieWorks 80/20 mix - 80 of whatever resin to 20 of Tenacious is the demonstrated general optimal mix.
Kind of like a strong "screwdriver" - 80 %vodka, 20% ORANGE juice, but interestingly if you use grapefruit juice it is a "greyhound".
Well the mix is on the menu but i need to shake it for a while. Now seriously yes i'm gonna test it
@@NoizieWorks "Shaken, not stirred" - you are a serious man...
Why is there not a taste test? :D
@LordNerfherder for that you need to be @onceinasixside 😆
Did you say orange?
ooo yes i did :)
Have you ever done a taste test?
No but let me know if you find out 🙈
Can you test blends?
Sure can and is on the planning, please share the blends you would like to see 🙂
@@NoizieWorks Can't wait! Personally I lover to see how Tenacious compares to other flexible resins, an then the ideal blends to optimize durability and strength for functional prints.
@@mackenziebrown6881 it's not going to be soon soon but it's planned. Need to do some research on blends etc for the tenacious. Let's hope this video and the latest sunlu testing gauntlet perform well so i can afford it 😅cause i don't think they are going to ship more liquid gold for 2K views 🤞
Test the loctite resins!
They have resin? Cool! Hope they want to coöperate 🤞
ORANGE!
🙌🙌
My fast navy grey warps something fierce
It wasn't to bad with mine yes it's more warpish then other abs like resins
ORANGES
Anycubic eco resin is NOT garbage… Im using it for over a year, nearly zero fails. Siraya pumping money into your ass huh
@@Freshmattik lol... watch some newer videos and think again
Siraya tech is my favorite resin of the 4 or 5 brands I've tried. Any cubic is by far the worst. I couldn't even get one print to stick to my build plate with Any cubic. It's not even worth buying. Siraya is worth any extra cost for sure.
Allways had great prints with Anycubic resin and their printers, even with Saturn 8k they resin is good. If you lift he bottom exposure i bet they will stick to the build plate. The worst i used is Elegoo 8k i cant get good prints with that one. Now i usually use Sunlu and its cheap and good.
I'm sure anycubic has good resin but the eco...
Beyond research and testing there is ZERO justification for these absurd prices. They are using common chemicals that are dirt cheap, easy to mix, have very good shelf life and beyond finding that perfect mix and combination there is no other cost they could use to justify why the are trying to get us to think there is some value. Bottom line is their cost to manufacture is fractional compared to retail price. I suspect when it becomes more common knowledge how to source these chemicals and end users figure out how to make them themselves the greed train will come to an end, until then the consumer is stuck paying these ludicrous prices!
There seems to be a lot of hushush around how it's made and this is true for any brand so far. The fact it's not as easy to make like melting pellets for filament gives them enough security that people making it themselfs is not a problem for them. I'm also from the opinion that most plastics and chemicals are dirt cheap and a easy cash grab to fund side projects like 3d printers where there is lower margins.
Shit drilling - You can see the angle - not reliable at all. You should use some perpendicular device to drill the hole
true!
I will downvote your video because there is absolutely NO REASON FOR YOU TO BROADCAST "SMELL TESTS" OF TOXIC COMPOUNDS ONLINE. Seriously
I'm not promoting anybody to copy what i do but it's a valid safety concern.
Do you know why I don't subscribe and like the video? For a simple reason - you wasted 23 minutes of my time on information which can be delivered within 10 seconds. Make videos shorter and better summarized and people will like it.
Thanks for the feedback but you are on the wrong channel then. There is a timeline to skip around with conclusions at the end. I do try to better summarize at the end in the following video's and the vids comming.
This feels like some unnecessary cruelty. This video has great time codes for jumping through if you are in a hurry, but understanding the methodology gives more value to the numbers and the applications themselves.
If you want exclusively infographics maybe avoid watching videos.