as an engineer and engineering instructor, I'd like to thank you for making such a clear video on a topic that could scare away many viewers if badly explained.
I am overjoyed at finding this UA-cam channel. Finally a user for those of us that want to make serious items rather than just goblins and fairies. I have a machine shop that would like to make parts that actually need to meet certain tolerances. Parts that don’t fit together are a waste of time and worthless, winding up in the trash. 3D printing is as close to magic for us as we are about to get for the near future. There’s no doubt that this is a real timesaver compared to manual, or even CNC machining for a large variety of parts that don’t need to be made of metal. This video is priceless information for me and very likely many others. Thank you for being there for us.
The best thing about this is that you taught why and how to apply to other machines. Thank You for not just covering the quick fix and skipping all that, much appreciated and please stay safe.
Printed a 100mm x 100mm square. Went from 100.64mm x 100.53mm to 100.03mm x 100.03mm. Thank you very much. Now I can get dimentionally accurate prints.
This. Exactly this. I was doing a lot of research before purchasing my first printer but was so turned off by all the guys (Uncle Jessy) going on and on about all their free stuff, and all they ever did was print fantasy figures and gush about the printer's "accuracy and detail", when they never printed a single thing that hand any indication of either. The Quality of a printer is how well it prints a mechanical part, not how well it renders something that doesn't exist.
One of the most clever ideas to really accurate your prints. I use my printer to print technical products. This is a must video, clear, logical, and get solutionts. Most over other videos, 99%, talk abut Time Exposure...Yes this is a factor, very important, but not the only one. Looking at this vide I think the new process to exactly calibrate is . 1) Calibrate the Time Exposure 2) Apply the Video Method. Amazing. My congrats to your idea and to your clear explanation.
Hello Michael, my name is Victor and I just got your video. First of all, I take my hat off to your amazingly good explanation! Videos like this are the ones that the whole community needs to develop faster and better. Thank you once again, Michael I encourage you to keep doing such good videos! Congratulations from Peru!
I love it! Most guys using resin printers are running sculpture not mechanical assembly parts and could care less about getting this kind of accuracy. Not me, if parts dont fit, I have a fit! loll Every 3d Printer and RP technology evaluates and use I use the 1st thing I do is print a 1-inch cube to get a baseline of my fitment tolerances, so I know what sort of tolerance I need to model within to make my parts fit like butter. I just printed a 1-inch cube tonight I will see how it measures up in the am. I'm usually happy If I get within + - .003-.005. I think you nailed it getting this figured out! I will change my settings in Chitubox, I really appreciate finding this video, I'm just getting started with my Transform and you had posted a comment to me on FB Chitubox or Phorzen user group today with some input on another issue I was having. So thanks I will subscribe to your channel and keep my eyes peeled for more content.
Thanks. Like I said in the video. Print a larger xy shape to do the calculations. Also. The newer version of chitubox has more accurate size info in there for the transform. I tried it. I actually still prefer the numbers I share in my video. I feel my calculations get me closer.
@@Nerdtronic yeah it usually does :) But start a patreon and I will support you for sure. But you are doing really great. You are the reason why I now start looking to one or two of those Phrozen Transform printers. My 2 Anycubic Photon S, and my Wanhao Duplicator 8 are CRAP. Both Anycubic Photon S stopped reading any USB drives what so ever, and one of them is brand new, and was never used. I am so tired of these Chinese Kung Flu figther printers :) Phrozen is from Taiwan correct ? (Fingers crossed)
@@euroriderdk Thanks. I was going to start a patreon and post all my STL's there. But about 5 weeks ago patreon just deleted my account with no reason or warning. I've been trying to get support from them to restore it but no luck. I have a new account there but I'm scared to trust the platform after that. We'll see what happens. They finally are starting to reply to my support tickets. But clearly something weird happened.
Excellent information. Another thing to consider is the light near the edges is passing through the screen at a slight angle as the lenses are being used to spread the light out more evenly so that only one light source is needed even for a large build volume. So I figure that at the edges of a large print the light instead of going straight up to the resin will be moving outward away from the center. That means a larger part will grow a bit and most of the growth will be near the outside edge of the part. If the light is really evenly distributed and shoots straight up across the whole printer this will be less of a problem. Also there are free radicals in the resin trying to bind and form chains so where ever they might be the part will grow a bit more there than in other spots but that's just a limitation of the technology. But that'll occur more where the light is intense since for any creation of free radicals requires energy so if the light intensity of the machine is more even that'll occur less. A 0.2 percent difference is really good though on a part that size. A part that large though I would have done on an FDM printer or I would have done it in two parts and then glued, resin sealed, or bolted it together. But with that degree of accuracy two parts probably wouldn't be needed.
Brilliant! I did not realise you could calibrate as I thought the screen was fixed, but it makes sense now that its the slicer that can be tweaked! Cheers
Your videos are some of the most informative I've seen on the subject. Covers technical issues, but in a manner that is digestible for the newer users. You're really great at this and I'm looking forward to more. Peace!
Very interesting. Who would have thought that the slicer for the printer would come with the wrong settings, seems like Phrozen would have been on top of that. So great job in figuring it out and sharing with us.
It didn’t come with the printer. It’s a 3rd party slicer that supports the printer. And yes who would have thought that phrozen would give us the wrong values. :)
I purchased my first resin printer just recently with the initial exclusive use to do high detail architectural parts out of fusion too, and accuracy was the real driving point. I have a huge delta FDM machine that does those things well (when it isn't trying to self destruct, sigh), but thus far I've been either extraordinarily lucky with how accurate my parts are or correctly 'guesstimated' my profile when transferring knowledge from fdm and composite work to the resin printer. I'll certainly try your calibration technique with the screen though, as I want this thing dialed in to perfection before moving on to the really key pieces that not only need dimensional accuracy but as they are aero-oriented parts with super tight tolerance, they need to be Perfect (or as close to that magical word as I can get). Another sub earned in kind!
I appreciate these kinds of "informational" videos, where you don't just say "hey use these numbers for this machine", but rather show us the math so to speak. Going to test this out on my anycubic mono se, and see how far "off" it is. Thanks!
oh thank you so much that helped me a lot, before that my dimensions were off like 0.3mm now its fits perfectly thank yo so much you are a life saver thanks for this 4 years old upload
DAMN! This was great! Very helpful and thorough. It was also great to hear from someone who doesn't just make miniatures but uses a printer for actual engineering applications. I loved your analysis. This was great! I subscribed!
Just one of the best resin printing channels here for quality content and actual and precise technical descriptions of this stuff. Keep up the great work!
I have been in the printing/design field for 40 years, as a fan of miniature painting and model building, I took the leap into 3d printing. Your technical tweaking and alterations remind me so much of what I had to go through with the Canon Digital Press, I think these are awesome and will definitely try out your ‘bulge buster’ app in one if your other videos. Excellent work, you are helping us A LOT.
ugh this was amazing!!! Im currently designing something where the tolerances need to be realllyyy SPOT on and they were all over the place, usually printing larger than how i designed it. This literally fixed our issue
Thanks for the video explaining your way to solve the problem. Recently I started to calibrate my printer, because I realized that there was a difference with the impressions that I made with the FDM printer. Until then I had not worried since the pieces I made were figures and did not require great precision (the figure would simply be 2% larger). But when the time came to make a part that required certain tolerances, I could see that it had that, approximately 2% increase in x, y and z. I gave him to create a new Phrozen Transform printer and to my surprise, the dimensions of the new printer were different from the previous one, possibly due to a change between versions of the program. Even so, using that new printer to prepare the test piece, there was still an increase in dimensions. I have always prepared the piece in Chitobox, both the supports and the laminate, and out of curiosity I tried to print with PZslizer and the surprise was complete when verifying that the dimensions of the X and Y printing were accurate. Only the dimension on the Z axis was still wrong. I suppose that the way to solve the latter will be to scale the z axis when printing. If there was a way to enter the firmware of the machine to modify the motor pitch on the z axis, it would be ideal, but that is light years away from my poor knowledge. At the moment, I think I will try to adjust the chitobox as you explain in the video, although it will surely change my way of printing and use the chitobox only to prepare the piece and PZslizer to laminate it. Thank you again for sharing your experience.
Great information. I've been printing miniatures and never realize how "off" the scale was until I needed some functional parts. Now things are certainly more accurate on my printer. Thanks.
One of the best videos I saw for resin printing ever, really helpful and interesting informations, stunning presentation, just perfect. Thanks a lot for your work
Got a resin printer at work for functional parts and the first parts I printed, my boss was amazed at the finish quality but It ALWAYS ends up bigger than the 3d Drawing... I searched for hours on google and everyone kept talking about time exposure and curing but never this settings! I'll try this out tomorrow hopefully it's doable in Elegoo's Tango slicer!
you have solved my dimension accuracy problem!!!! for the longest time people are just telling me to increase my curing time, and it got ridiculous and im still getting inconsistency as for Z axis, I find that u have to measure something with a known z value that is NOT touching the base plate over curing the base will lead to a shorter/distorted Z value, thus affecting the overall Z size on a calibration cube.
Great video! Really looking forward to your vent video. I was planning to build an enclosure with a pc fan blowing the fumes into a duct tube and out the window using a window adapter similar to one you would see on small airbrush painting enclosures. Your solution already looks more thought out, so I would love to see what you come up with.
Thanks. I considered doing the tent but I'm hopeful that this vent will be sufficient for at least pulling the fumes out of the printer. I haven't assembled it yet cause I need to film that process. Cleaning chemicals is a whole other thing. The IPA is pretty bad and this vent (or your box) won't help with that.
Just found your channel and your content is absolutely top notch - this is your first video??? This is quite high quality production and the kind of thing I'd expect from a well established youtuber. I look forward to making use of the wonderful resources and information you've made available on your channel as I get into resin printing.
This is really useful. I have an Orange 10 from Longer 3D and I noticed that the parts were printing bigger than they should. For example I had a statue that came in parts but the parts didn't fit together. After I got the Phrozen Sonic Mini I stopped using the Orange 10 all together, partly for that reason. I actually need to pull the Orange 10 out again for a job that requires it so I'll have to try this out.
OUTSTANDING content and presentation. Liked and subscribed! You explain things extremely well and that's saying a lot for me, I have always struggled with complex things (especially math) but you made it very understandable. I have experienced considerable size between the digital models and the analog results with my Phrozen Sonic Mini and this explains it! Thank you so much for your content. - Ray
Well that's...very useful. I'll have to check on this later. I was noticing warping on one of my prints, and it seemed scale was off when fitting together. I suppose this is why. Good stuff.!
This is great info. When I set my printer up I confused the X and Y axis in Chitubox. My projects were skewed severely. I wish I found this video then:)
This is awesome. Could you please make a video on how to angle these parts and recommendations for support settings. I have been trying to print enclosures but they get bent during printing. Don't know why and couldn't find a better tutorial regarding parts like these. Most of the videos Cover miniatures but not these kind of parts.
Thank you . I'm having issues with X and Z way off since installing chitubox 2.0 basic on my anycubic photon mono . This looks like it is this issue . Thanks much
Class! Thanks for the info! Everything is short and to the point. Please tell me, what about the splash control method announced at the end of the video?
I had a similar issue with my Mono X and I use Chitu as well. Myself, I would just adjust my actual model in the X & Z, usually between 2 and 1% size difference. The only caveat is that if I have an internal diameter I have to enlarge the hole... but hey, it works for me =] By the way, AWESOME t-shirt... brings back childhood memories at this thing called the arcade... I think.
Thank you! Just thank you. I thought my printer is a garbage. My FDM printed more accurately the alpha prototype, then i used the same stl, and duh... M8 screw does not even fit. I will check tomorrow this method, sounds promising! Thank you!
I just checked my Chitubox 1.6.3 win64 settings for the transform, they are correct(164.16×291.84). Maybe your mac version has the issue. But thank you very much for the video, i changed my Photon settings to match sales literature and my first prints were inadvertently 6% too big! Now i understand whats happening.
Also some resins will change size over time, I had one $200 liter resin a company wanted to use, it would always shrink some after you printed, the slicer software had a built in calibration, but if you measured the block too quickly after printing everything should be off
Sir, would it be possible if you can do a updated video on Chitubox V2.0, in the area of Tolerance, Shrinkage, and Anti-aliasing. I really like to get your thoughts on this. Great video, thank you.
@nerdtronic how can I tell if the discrepancy in print size is caused by an inaccurate pixel count or by resin shrinkage, blooming etc. when should I use your method V.S. Using the slicer compensation values for shrinking etc.
@@Nerdtronic it definitely did, many explanations. Perhaps you can answer this question; I have the wham bam flex system, which adds 2mm of thickness to my plate. Do I need to adjust my Z axis anywhere?
It can be 2 terms in 3D printing, Light bleed it's called yeah exactly the same thing from over exposure but can also happen from under exposure! You will see it when using the phontonsters validation matrix test card for dialing in your settings light bleed is seen on the pins at and the bar test and the infinitely symbol in the center there more flat and "blurred" we call it when the light bleeds it flattens the print details slightly and and starts to get that Ink dot swelling as if it were expanding! Also over curing can cause this apparently 4 mins is all you need to cure anything anything longer will case the part to be extra brittle as the resin looses it's strength properties but i am testing this at the moment so cant be 100% sure if this is accurate but for smaller part's for models that i have 4min cures are solid and non brittle to say a 10 min cure the part will break so much easier but i have to find this sweet spot for large scale prints yet!
if you donot want to find best timing for slicer (guess this solve most of your problems) there is also a SCALE button there ! just scale your module instead of uncalibrating your printer !
That doesn't work if you rotate the model. If the printer's size calibration is off in the X or Y axis or both, but spot on in the Z, then when you rotate your model it will become skewed. Probably most printers arrive calibrated pretty close. But my printer wasn't and it was skewing rotated models.
So, a different question with the same base problem: I recently designed a case for an ESP32 board. I cut out the lid for that case from the original design and printed both in the same run. Theory is, if I print 2 objects with a base dimension of 48x25 millimeters next to each other, even if both of them are 2% off, they should either be 2% bigger or smaller for both parts at the same time, right, and thus fit somewhat(especially if I make the lid about 3-5 % smaller on purpose to compensate for expected deviation). Yet for some reason the lid comes out bigger than the case. The same goes for bolt and nut. I create the bolt, cut the bolt out of a cylinder(this one was done for testing purposes), I scale the cylinder up by 10% in x & y, and still the bolt come out of the printer larger than the cut out of the cylinder. Why does this happen and how do I accurately compensate for it?
Hi! Great video and thanks for the tip. One thing Im woundering is the mirror settings. What are the difference between: LCD-mirror Dlp-mirror Normal??
the chitubox preset for transform where you load printer type has values close to what you calculated (newest chitubox version anyway). incorrect sizing could also be due to over exposure per layer regarding what you were talking about with dot size. this is why higher exposure layers result in less detailed and less accurate prints.
Chitubox gives you the option to apply scaling in percentage for each of the axis X, Y and Z, No need to change the panel dimensions. You will be screwing other prints if you change resin or design of the model.
Well the size values were completely off on the phrozen transform when I got it. Sure this is something the printer manufacturer should do and then it should just be right in the slicer when you get the printer. But it isn’t always.
In case you didn't see someone on the Transform Facebook group was working on a 6k Duobono Vlare update for the Transform, if you ever attempt to do this upgrade making a step by step guide for it would be incredible for all Transform uses. They also have 7k and 8k screens that could potentially work for it but haven't a clue what is required.
Thank you for this very logical sounding solution to calibrate. However, using Chitbox Pro 1.3.0 printing to a Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K, I scaled the dimensions as you described, but the .ctb file that I use to print the file is not recognized as printable. It see's it just like it sees a Phrozen 8k Mini, but does not give the option to Print. Any ideas how to get around this?
So I have figured out a solution for the sonic mighty 8k. I used lychee rather 5han chitu box and when you select your printer and your resin, you can edit the resin settings. In the lower half of the settings page, on the left there is an option called "scene scale compensation". There you can use the method described in the video to work out what your offset should be. I managed to change my tolerance from about 2% or 3% in the X and y axis to about 0.2% off. And my z axis which was off by about 5% is now within 0.1%. I hope this helps you :)
Brilliant information and how to. This will be very useful as I am also interested in getting more accurate for mechanical parts. Liked and subbed. Keep up the good work.
hmm, resin prints shrink differently depending on the resin... It could happen that you incorporated the filament shrinking coefficient into the machine scaling coefficient?
No I don't think so. You would change the resin profile. But the calibration of scale is only about the size of the LCD panel. Once you have that dialed in that's it. If the part shinks because of the type of resin, it's something else and I would account for that another way. Like scaling up your part in the slicer before printing it.
Michael, your videos are superb! Many, many thanks for solving problems for us and helping us to understand what is going on. I think you have a Phrozen Sonic Mini. Are the published specs for it (X: 68.04, Y: 120.96, Z: 130) the same as your own results? I want to start with values that others have found to be their best, expecting that will speed up my own dialing in. Like you, I need accuracy since I am prototyping parts for mechanisms and production.
I love this video. I have another problem though, my stupid prints come out warped… so flat surface (being printed on supports at an angle) comes out not flat… i tried various thicknesses of supports - no difference. My printer is anycubic 6K. Any ideas of what can cause it? Thank you very much.
I'm a little bit confused! I've created a cross to controll X and Y. The cross is about 105mm x 105mm, width from the arms 10mm. The result: 104,8mm x 104,8mm, width 10,1mm. So if i print big parts, they are too small and small parts are to big. What do I have to set now?! I've no Idea.. Next Issue is the height that should be 10mm. It's only 9,5mm..
The height issue / Z axis calibration is difficult but is normally all about how tight the plate is to the fep at z=0. If it's .5mm short yours might be too tight. Maybe try loosening it slightly. Although 1/2 mm is a lot in resin 3d printing. if 10mm is 9,5 is 20mm 18? Or 19.5? That would tell you if it's a constant z calibration issue or just a bottom layer issue.
@@Nerdtronic I think I'm on the right way now. I set the dimensions that both measures have the same fault (..) 10.18mm and 105.18mm. The rest I'll correct with tolerance compensation. The Z-correction is the next step, if the cross (+) is printing now correctly😃
Thanks for the great video. Regarding the Z axis. It seems the only way to affect that is to scale the actual model as the Z axis layers are fixed with the motor movements. Have you figured out another way?
Brilliant video and thanks for taking the time to produce and share it, I was at the point of giving up. X & Y now print perfect, is their a way of calibrating the Z, I'm about 0.04 off. Any help would be much appreciated.
Odds are, there aren't so many types of masks used to manufacture the panels. So with some luck, you'll find a panel that's used in the printer on panelook, or one that matches the tooling exactly; if you're lucky enough to find the datasheet for that then, you might get an exact size of the active display area down to a hundredth or thousandth of a millimetre. Also it's a good strong assumption that pixels are exactly as tall as they are wide; so unlocking the proportional scaling might not be all that helpful, and if you have a disagreement in measurements, you might as well just use it to split the difference and approximate the true pixel size closer.
![PERFECT Exposure times (calibration) - dial in your 3D printer resin [EASY METHOD]](/img/n.gif)
as an engineer and engineering instructor, I'd like to thank you for making such a clear video on a topic that could scare away many viewers if badly explained.
I am overjoyed at finding this UA-cam channel. Finally a user for those of us that want to make serious items rather than just goblins and fairies.
I have a machine shop that would like to make parts that actually need to meet certain tolerances. Parts that don’t fit together are a waste of time and worthless, winding up in the trash. 3D printing is as close to magic for us as we are about to get for the near future. There’s no doubt that this is a real timesaver compared to manual, or even CNC machining for a large variety of parts that don’t need to be made of metal. This video is priceless information for me and very likely many others.
Thank you for being there for us.
Cool thanks! I love getting lost in Fusion 360 designing some random part for something.
The best thing about this is that you taught why and how to apply to other machines. Thank You for not just covering the quick fix and skipping all that, much appreciated and please stay safe.
Agreed. I appreciate this type of video structure. Keep it up @Nerdtronic.
Printed a 100mm x 100mm square. Went from 100.64mm x 100.53mm to 100.03mm x 100.03mm. Thank you very much. Now I can get dimentionally accurate prints.
Yay!!
This is what we need, real part how to's. I mostly car and small engine repair parts, not figurines! thanks man, keep em comin. I subbed
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
@@Nerdtronic Have you tried this resin for parts?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082VRZ572/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A340DAQR1F0B17&psc=1
Thanks
yes, dial in for shinkage. It taps and drills, be sure to be at least 80f when printing and cure in water slowly.
@@luckylarry5112 Seriously?
This. Exactly this. I was doing a lot of research before purchasing my first printer but was so turned off by all the guys (Uncle Jessy) going on and on about all their free stuff, and all they ever did was print fantasy figures and gush about the printer's "accuracy and detail", when they never printed a single thing that hand any indication of either. The Quality of a printer is how well it prints a mechanical part, not how well it renders something that doesn't exist.
Man, yours vids are awesome, your approach to 3d printing is like a scientist
Subbed exactly cuz we need more people really caring about dimensional accuracy and functional parts;)
Thanks!
One of the most clever ideas to really accurate your prints. I use my printer to print technical products. This is a must video, clear, logical, and get solutionts. Most over other videos, 99%, talk abut Time Exposure...Yes this is a factor, very important, but not the only one. Looking at this vide I think the new process to exactly calibrate is . 1) Calibrate the Time Exposure 2) Apply the Video Method.
Amazing.
My congrats to your idea and to your clear explanation.
Hello Michael, my name is Victor and I just got your video. First of all, I take my hat off to your amazingly good explanation! Videos like this are the ones that the whole community needs to develop faster and better. Thank you once again, Michael I encourage you to keep doing such good videos! Congratulations from Peru!
I love it! Most guys using resin printers are running sculpture not mechanical assembly parts and could care less about getting this kind of accuracy. Not me, if parts dont fit, I have a fit! loll Every 3d Printer and RP technology evaluates and use I use the 1st thing I do is print a 1-inch cube to get a baseline of my fitment tolerances, so I know what sort of tolerance I need to model within to make my parts fit like butter. I just printed a 1-inch cube tonight I will see how it measures up in the am. I'm usually happy If I get within + - .003-.005. I think you nailed it getting this figured out! I will change my settings in Chitubox, I really appreciate finding this video, I'm just getting started with my Transform and you had posted a comment to me on FB Chitubox or Phorzen user group today with some input on another issue I was having. So thanks I will subscribe to your channel and keep my eyes peeled for more content.
Thanks. Like I said in the video. Print a larger xy shape to do the calculations. Also. The newer version of chitubox has more accurate size info in there for the transform. I tried it. I actually still prefer the numbers I share in my video. I feel my calculations get me closer.
I absolutely want to see this channel grow. You do amazing videos man, and deserve a lot more subs.
Thanks. Fingers crossed. It's taking me a while to make my next video. Real work gets in the way :/
@@Nerdtronic yeah it usually does :) But start a patreon and I will support you for sure. But you are doing really great.
You are the reason why I now start looking to one or two of those Phrozen Transform printers. My 2 Anycubic Photon S, and my Wanhao Duplicator 8 are CRAP. Both Anycubic Photon S stopped reading any USB drives what so ever, and one of them is brand new, and was never used. I am so tired of these Chinese Kung Flu figther printers :) Phrozen is from Taiwan correct ? (Fingers crossed)
@@euroriderdk Thanks. I was going to start a patreon and post all my STL's there. But about 5 weeks ago patreon just deleted my account with no reason or warning. I've been trying to get support from them to restore it but no luck. I have a new account there but I'm scared to trust the platform after that. We'll see what happens. They finally are starting to reply to my support tickets. But clearly something weird happened.
@@Nerdtronic Yeah but dont give up, but tell me when you have it open, and I will support you bro, You can write me private on youtube if you want :)
you deserve a much bigger following. Your attention to detail is matched by your skills with a teleprompter! Thanks for sharing this.
Excellent information. Another thing to consider is the light near the edges is passing through the screen at a slight angle as the lenses are being used to spread the light out more evenly so that only one light source is needed even for a large build volume. So I figure that at the edges of a large print the light instead of going straight up to the resin will be moving outward away from the center. That means a larger part will grow a bit and most of the growth will be near the outside edge of the part. If the light is really evenly distributed and shoots straight up across the whole printer this will be less of a problem. Also there are free radicals in the resin trying to bind and form chains so where ever they might be the part will grow a bit more there than in other spots but that's just a limitation of the technology. But that'll occur more where the light is intense since for any creation of free radicals requires energy so if the light intensity of the machine is more even that'll occur less. A 0.2 percent difference is really good though on a part that size. A part that large though I would have done on an FDM printer or I would have done it in two parts and then glued, resin sealed, or bolted it together. But with that degree of accuracy two parts probably wouldn't be needed.
Brilliant! I did not realise you could calibrate as I thought the screen was fixed, but it makes sense now that its the slicer that can be tweaked! Cheers
Your videos are some of the most informative I've seen on the subject. Covers technical issues, but in a manner that is digestible for the newer users. You're really great at this and I'm looking forward to more. Peace!
Thanks!
Man I wish your channel existed when I started resin printing in 2016.
Thank you! I just wanted to say that your animations on the how prints fail video are awesome!!
Thanks!
Very interesting. Who would have thought that the slicer for the printer would come with the wrong settings, seems like Phrozen would have been on top of that. So great job in figuring it out and sharing with us.
It didn’t come with the printer. It’s a 3rd party slicer that supports the printer. And yes who would have thought that phrozen would give us the wrong values. :)
I purchased my first resin printer just recently with the initial exclusive use to do high detail architectural parts out of fusion too, and accuracy was the real driving point. I have a huge delta FDM machine that does those things well (when it isn't trying to self destruct, sigh), but thus far I've been either extraordinarily lucky with how accurate my parts are or correctly 'guesstimated' my profile when transferring knowledge from fdm and composite work to the resin printer.
I'll certainly try your calibration technique with the screen though, as I want this thing dialed in to perfection before moving on to the really key pieces that not only need dimensional accuracy but as they are aero-oriented parts with super tight tolerance, they need to be Perfect (or as close to that magical word as I can get).
Another sub earned in kind!
the 5" screens are generally 120.96 x 68.04
I appreciate these kinds of "informational" videos, where you don't just say "hey use these numbers for this machine", but rather show us the math so to speak. Going to test this out on my anycubic mono se, and see how far "off" it is. Thanks!
Hi, Daniel. Did your test already? I have a Photon Mono too. Thanks!!
@@jefff3000 I have not, I broke the FEP on my machine and haven't gotten around to ordering a replacement yet
oh thank you so much that helped me a lot, before that my dimensions were off like 0.3mm now its fits perfectly thank yo so much you are a life saver thanks for this 4 years old upload
DAMN! This was great! Very helpful and thorough. It was also great to hear from someone who doesn't just make miniatures but uses a printer for actual engineering applications. I loved your analysis. This was great! I subscribed!
Wow thanks.
Just one of the best resin printing channels here for quality content and actual and precise technical descriptions of this stuff. Keep up the great work!
My X/Y were both about 10% too large, and now they're fixed!! Thanks!!
Glad I could help!
I have been in the printing/design field for 40 years, as a fan of miniature painting and model building, I took the leap into 3d printing. Your technical tweaking and alterations remind me so much of what I had to go through with the Canon Digital Press, I think these are awesome and will definitely try out your ‘bulge buster’ app in one if your other videos. Excellent work, you are helping us A LOT.
ugh this was amazing!!! Im currently designing something where the tolerances need to be realllyyy SPOT on and they were all over the place, usually printing larger than how i designed it. This literally fixed our issue
I really love your videos - you speak very direct and clear - with great information
Thanks for the video explaining your way to solve the problem.
Recently I started to calibrate my printer, because I realized that there was a difference with the impressions that I made with the FDM printer. Until then I had not worried since the pieces I made were figures and did not require great precision (the figure would simply be 2% larger).
But when the time came to make a part that required certain tolerances, I could see that it had that, approximately 2% increase in x, y and z.
I gave him to create a new Phrozen Transform printer and to my surprise, the dimensions of the new printer were different from the previous one, possibly due to a change between versions of the program.
Even so, using that new printer to prepare the test piece, there was still an increase in dimensions.
I have always prepared the piece in Chitobox, both the supports and the laminate, and out of curiosity I tried to print with PZslizer and the surprise was complete when verifying that the dimensions of the X and Y printing were accurate. Only the dimension on the Z axis was still wrong.
I suppose that the way to solve the latter will be to scale the z axis when printing. If there was a way to enter the firmware of the machine to modify the motor pitch on the z axis, it would be ideal, but that is light years away from my poor knowledge.
At the moment, I think I will try to adjust the chitobox as you explain in the video, although it will surely change my way of printing and use the chitobox only to prepare the piece and PZslizer to laminate it.
Thank you again for sharing your experience.
Scaling the z is pretty easy on the transform. But if it obeyed Goode properly it would be a little more difficult.
So good u cleared this out, they said one value for the build volume and another for the Chitubox settings.
Great information. I've been printing miniatures and never realize how "off" the scale was until I needed some functional parts. Now things are certainly more accurate on my printer. Thanks.
Glad I could help!
Thx a lot ! Working on an Elegoo Saturn and now going to tune chitu with yours tips! ❤
One of the best videos I saw for resin printing ever, really helpful and interesting informations, stunning presentation, just perfect. Thanks a lot for your work
Wow, thank you!
Excellent! My Photon S was 5% off, and this technique helped me get it bang on. Thanks so much!
Glad it helped!
Got a resin printer at work for functional parts and the first parts I printed, my boss was amazed at the finish quality but It ALWAYS ends up bigger than the 3d Drawing... I searched for hours on google and everyone kept talking about time exposure and curing but never this settings! I'll try this out tomorrow hopefully it's doable in Elegoo's Tango slicer!
you have solved my dimension accuracy problem!!!! for the longest time people are just telling me to increase my curing time, and it got ridiculous and im still getting inconsistency
as for Z axis, I find that u have to measure something with a known z value that is NOT touching the base plate
over curing the base will lead to a shorter/distorted Z value, thus affecting the overall Z size on a calibration cube.
what are you using for the z axis?
Thank you for this video. My prints are now fitting 100%.
yea cool man... I am getting my Phrozen Tansform within a few days away
Excellent, I getting similar scale issue with a new elegoo saturn , and odd angle swelling and drooping
Dude, this video is GOLD! Nice work
Thanks
These are serious, high dollar tutorials - thank you for sharing!
Great video! Really looking forward to your vent video. I was planning to build an enclosure with a pc fan blowing the fumes into a duct tube and out the window using a window adapter similar to one you would see on small airbrush painting enclosures. Your solution already looks more thought out, so I would love to see what you come up with.
Thanks. I considered doing the tent but I'm hopeful that this vent will be sufficient for at least pulling the fumes out of the printer. I haven't assembled it yet cause I need to film that process. Cleaning chemicals is a whole other thing. The IPA is pretty bad and this vent (or your box) won't help with that.
Hi I've just changed the settings on my Transform and what a difference! Thanks so much for sharing the information.
Just found your channel and your content is absolutely top notch - this is your first video??? This is quite high quality production and the kind of thing I'd expect from a well established youtuber. I look forward to making use of the wonderful resources and information you've made available on your channel as I get into resin printing.
Thanks Bill. Nice pickle.
Boom done, Sub to your channel.
Straight forward and explain the reasons and how to fix or figure out the fix. Love it.
:)
This is really useful. I have an Orange 10 from Longer 3D and I noticed that the parts were printing bigger than they should. For example I had a statue that came in parts but the parts didn't fit together. After I got the Phrozen Sonic Mini I stopped using the Orange 10 all together, partly for that reason. I actually need to pull the Orange 10 out again for a job that requires it so I'll have to try this out.
good luck
Very informative video on Phrozen Transform. Thanks for making this video!
OUTSTANDING content and presentation. Liked and subscribed! You explain things extremely well and that's saying a lot for me, I have always struggled with complex things (especially math) but you made it very understandable. I have experienced considerable size between the digital models and the analog results with my Phrozen Sonic Mini and this explains it! Thank you so much for your content. - Ray
Awesome, thank you!
Well that's...very useful. I'll have to check on this later. I was noticing warping on one of my prints, and it seemed scale was off when fitting together. I suppose this is why. Good stuff.!
This is great info. When I set my printer up I confused the X and Y axis in Chitubox. My projects were skewed severely. I wish I found this video then:)
This is awesome. Could you please make a video on how to angle these parts and recommendations for support settings. I have been trying to print enclosures but they get bent during printing. Don't know why and couldn't find a better tutorial regarding parts like these. Most of the videos Cover miniatures but not these kind of parts.
Man , you made my day ! thanks for avoiding me more headaches with that problem
Glad I could help!
Thank you . I'm having issues with X and Z way off since installing chitubox 2.0 basic on my anycubic photon mono .
This looks like it is this issue .
Thanks much
Class! Thanks for the info! Everything is short and to the point.
Please tell me, what about the splash control method announced at the end of the video?
I had a similar issue with my Mono X and I use Chitu as well. Myself, I would just adjust my actual model in the X & Z, usually between 2 and 1% size difference. The only caveat is that if I have an internal diameter I have to enlarge the hole... but hey, it works for me =]
By the way, AWESOME t-shirt... brings back childhood memories at this thing called the arcade... I think.
Thank you! Just thank you. I thought my printer is a garbage. My FDM printed more accurately the alpha prototype, then i used the same stl, and duh... M8 screw does not even fit. I will check tomorrow this method, sounds promising! Thank you!
Awesome explanation to dial in your printer.
for the Z-axis, don't start the model on the build plate. Use supports to get it 5 mm above the build plate and measure that.
I just checked my Chitubox 1.6.3 win64 settings for the transform, they are correct(164.16×291.84). Maybe your mac version has the issue. But thank you very much for the video, i changed my Photon settings to match sales literature and my first prints were inadvertently 6% too big! Now i understand whats happening.
Thanks! Yeah unfortunately I'm mac only so I can't check on what's happening in windows. I guess I need to make that super clear in future videos.
Also some resins will change size over time, I had one $200 liter resin a company wanted to use, it would always shrink some after you printed, the slicer software had a built in calibration, but if you measured the block too quickly after printing everything should be off
Sir, would it be possible if you can do a updated video on Chitubox V2.0, in the area of Tolerance, Shrinkage, and Anti-aliasing. I really like to get your thoughts on this. Great video, thank you.
@nerdtronic how can I tell if the discrepancy in print size is caused by an inaccurate pixel count or by resin shrinkage, blooming etc. when should I use your method V.S. Using the slicer compensation values for shrinking etc.
love your videos, my dream is hoping that this helps my saturn calibration problems.
I hope so too! There are other reasons, like shrinkage, that can also make your prints come out off scale.
@@Nerdtronic it definitely did, many explanations. Perhaps you can answer this question; I have the wham bam flex system, which adds 2mm of thickness to my plate. Do I need to adjust my Z axis anywhere?
This guy absolutely knows his sh*t.
Wow thanks.
Gained so much time thanks to you! Amazing video, thanks
It can be 2 terms in 3D printing, Light bleed it's called yeah exactly the same thing from over exposure but can also happen from under exposure!
You will see it when using the phontonsters validation matrix test card for dialing in your settings light bleed is seen on the pins at and the bar test and the infinitely symbol in the center there more flat and "blurred" we call it when the light bleeds it flattens the print details slightly and and starts to get that Ink dot swelling as if it were expanding! Also over curing can cause this apparently 4 mins is all you need to cure anything anything longer will case the part to be extra brittle as the resin looses it's strength properties but i am testing this at the moment so cant be 100% sure if this is accurate but for smaller part's for models that i have 4min cures are solid and non brittle to say a 10 min cure the part will break so much easier but i have to find this sweet spot for large scale prints yet!
Brilliant but simple technique
Thank you! Cheers!
Fantastic video. Thank you so much.
Thank you! Excellent explanation and animations 👍
Thanks.
if you donot want to find best timing for slicer (guess this solve most of your problems) there is also a SCALE button there ! just scale your module instead of uncalibrating your printer !
That doesn't work if you rotate the model. If the printer's size calibration is off in the X or Y axis or both, but spot on in the Z, then when you rotate your model it will become skewed. Probably most printers arrive calibrated pretty close. But my printer wasn't and it was skewing rotated models.
So, a different question with the same base problem: I recently designed a case for an ESP32 board. I cut out the lid for that case from the original design and printed both in the same run. Theory is, if I print 2 objects with a base dimension of 48x25 millimeters next to each other, even if both of them are 2% off, they should either be 2% bigger or smaller for both parts at the same time, right, and thus fit somewhat(especially if I make the lid about 3-5 % smaller on purpose to compensate for expected deviation). Yet for some reason the lid comes out bigger than the case. The same goes for bolt and nut. I create the bolt, cut the bolt out of a cylinder(this one was done for testing purposes), I scale the cylinder up by 10% in x & y, and still the bolt come out of the printer larger than the cut out of the cylinder. Why does this happen and how do I accurately compensate for it?
Hi! Great video and thanks for the tip.
One thing Im woundering is the mirror settings.
What are the difference between:
LCD-mirror
Dlp-mirror
Normal??
Love this guy. Wish he was my high school teacher
You're the man! This video helped tremendously!
Glad to hear it!
the chitubox preset for transform where you load printer type has values close to what you calculated (newest chitubox version anyway). incorrect sizing could also be due to over exposure per layer regarding what you were talking about with dot size. this is why higher exposure layers result in less detailed and less accurate prints.
Chitubox gives you the option to apply scaling in percentage for each of the axis X, Y and Z, No need to change the panel dimensions. You will be screwing other prints if you change resin or design of the model.
Well the size values were completely off on the phrozen transform when I got it. Sure this is something the printer manufacturer should do and then it should just be right in the slicer when you get the printer. But it isn’t always.
In case you didn't see someone on the Transform Facebook group was working on a 6k Duobono Vlare update for the Transform, if you ever attempt to do this upgrade making a step by step guide for it would be incredible for all Transform uses. They also have 7k and 8k screens that could potentially work for it but haven't a clue what is required.
very interesting video, let me know how you calibrate the Z axis in a 3D printer???
Thank you for this very logical sounding solution to calibrate. However, using Chitbox Pro 1.3.0 printing to a Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K, I scaled the dimensions as you described, but the .ctb file that I use to print the file is not recognized as printable. It see's it just like it sees a Phrozen 8k Mini, but does not give the option to Print. Any ideas how to get around this?
I'm having the same problem. And ended up here. If I find anything, I will let you know
So I have figured out a solution for the sonic mighty 8k. I used lychee rather 5han chitu box and when you select your printer and your resin, you can edit the resin settings. In the lower half of the settings page, on the left there is an option called "scene scale compensation". There you can use the method described in the video to work out what your offset should be.
I managed to change my tolerance from about 2% or 3% in the X and y axis to about 0.2% off. And my z axis which was off by about 5% is now within 0.1%.
I hope this helps you :)
Brilliant information and how to. This will be very useful as I am also interested in getting more accurate for mechanical parts. Liked and subbed. Keep up the good work.
Thanks!
This video is awesome!!!! However, I have an Anycubic Mono 6k. I can not find the actual measurements for the screen. :(
hmm, resin prints shrink differently depending on the resin... It could happen that you incorporated the filament shrinking coefficient into the machine scaling coefficient?
Awesome vid! Just have one question, what´s the LCD mirror function for and why should it be set as Normal?
At 9:31, you misspoke on 6.8 and 68. Just in case anyone was hearing impaired would get the numbers wrong. Love your vids!
Thanks! Thanks for the catch.
Great video, thanks for your help.. did you do the Z axe?
THANK YOU
one thing of note, the manual actually gives different numbers to both the chitubox and those you found, not sure how much difference it makes.
Wow, very helpful . thanks for your sharing.
I think the resin type also effect the ratio in size, so if we change resin it should be re-calibrate the parameter in the software, does it?
No I don't think so. You would change the resin profile. But the calibration of scale is only about the size of the LCD panel. Once you have that dialed in that's it. If the part shinks because of the type of resin, it's something else and I would account for that another way. Like scaling up your part in the slicer before printing it.
Michael, your videos are superb! Many, many thanks for solving problems for us and helping us to understand what is going on. I think you have a Phrozen Sonic Mini. Are the published specs for it (X: 68.04, Y: 120.96, Z: 130) the same as your own results? I want to start with values that others have found to be their best, expecting that will speed up my own dialing in. Like you, I need accuracy since I am prototyping parts for mechanisms and production.
I actually don't have a sonic mini. I have the transform and the 5.5 inch option on that. Not sure if it's the same lcd screen or not.
I love this video. I have another problem though, my stupid prints come out warped… so flat surface (being printed on supports at an angle) comes out not flat… i tried various thicknesses of supports - no difference. My printer is anycubic 6K. Any ideas of what can cause it? Thank you very much.
I'm a little bit confused!
I've created a cross to controll X and Y. The cross is about 105mm x 105mm, width from the arms 10mm. The result: 104,8mm x 104,8mm, width 10,1mm. So if i print big parts, they are too small and small parts are to big. What do I have to set now?! I've no Idea..
Next Issue is the height that should be 10mm. It's only 9,5mm..
The height issue / Z axis calibration is difficult but is normally all about how tight the plate is to the fep at z=0. If it's .5mm short yours might be too tight. Maybe try loosening it slightly. Although 1/2 mm is a lot in resin 3d printing. if 10mm is 9,5 is 20mm 18? Or 19.5? That would tell you if it's a constant z calibration issue or just a bottom layer issue.
@@Nerdtronic I think I'm on the right way now. I set the dimensions that both measures have the same fault (..) 10.18mm and 105.18mm. The rest I'll correct with tolerance compensation. The Z-correction is the next step, if the cross (+) is printing now correctly😃
Very well explained video! Thanks a lot!
Loving the content, this is super helpful.
Glad to hear it!
I'll try this, I was considering to shrink my models.
Shrinking would only be a way to calibrate if you never rotate the part on the build plate.
Thanks for the great video. Regarding the Z axis. It seems the only way to affect that is to scale the actual model as the Z axis layers are fixed with the motor movements. Have you figured out another way?
I haven’t tried it yet but I believe you tell chitubox one thing and put something else in the resin profile.
Thank you! That was a great explanation!
Very nice this is really what i spose to do
Looking for a z axsis callibration
Thanks for information
Brilliant video and thanks for taking the time to produce and share it, I was at the point of giving up. X & Y now print perfect, is their a way of calibrating the Z, I'm about 0.04 off. Any help would be much appreciated.
Odds are, there aren't so many types of masks used to manufacture the panels. So with some luck, you'll find a panel that's used in the printer on panelook, or one that matches the tooling exactly; if you're lucky enough to find the datasheet for that then, you might get an exact size of the active display area down to a hundredth or thousandth of a millimetre.
Also it's a good strong assumption that pixels are exactly as tall as they are wide; so unlocking the proportional scaling might not be all that helpful, and if you have a disagreement in measurements, you might as well just use it to split the difference and approximate the true pixel size closer.
How do you prevent larger prints from warping... I'm doing a case design and they all seem to come out a little bent.