Using Fibreglass Part 1
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 лип 2012
- www.learnmakeupeffects.com/usi...
Get your free download of a comprehensive reference guide to go with this video by clicking the link above!
==========================
Fibreglass and polyester resin is a staple material used in effects workshops, and should be used in a professional environment. As a result, many people are curious to see how it works without having to endure the smell.
This video will take you through the process of creating a partition wall in clay, and use gel coat resin with laminated layers of glass fibre mat.
Questions or comments? Please get in touch through the blog or in a box below!
Thanks for watching!
Stuart - Навчання та стиль
Fantastic tutorial. Thank you Stuart! Really clear and easy to follow. I didn't know about using talc to help with the gelcoat - thanks :)
What an absolutely detailed explanation. Thank you
Brilliant, Stuart! Always wanted to learn fibreglassing. Thank you.
Thank you for sharing your techniques. Using the talc powder is something I have not seen before, but I can see why you did it.
Thank you again.
It helps prevent the gelcoat from retriculating on the waxy surface of the plastiline.
Your videos are amazing and very helpful, thank you!
The glass matt gets in the nooks and crannies better/easier if its ripped by hand rather than cut straight with scissors.
Really enjoyed this video, hope to see more content
Good question! Essentially, you could I am sure with no ill effect.
If brushed on, it may collect in recesses and take longer to dry, but presumable there are spray equivalents. Aerosol waxes dry quicker, which is an advantage but thin PVA will also dry quick.
Habit, borne from peer use is the main reason, I would say.
I have seen PVA used in props, getting fibreglass out of fibreglass moulds, but small stuff like this is almost always waxed.
-Stuart
ooo a new video. thank you!
great help - thanks !!!
very well made thank you for posting
.
.
I actually bought mine from B&Q too. There are two face masks at mine - the more expensive is naturally the one which we need (isn't it always the way?). You need one which stops vapours as well as particles. The best ones we used at work were by 3M.
I suggest going somewhere like like protec direct. The product code is 4279 and it's about £20 but excellent. My B&Q one was £30!
Do you have ,or plan to make, a video on how to injection mold a head mask using a hollow core. Ive found some sketchy stuff about it on the net but cant find a video. Cheers
Do you prefer the chop-strand mattting fiberglass, or have you tried a bi-axial or tri-axial weaves?
It is possible, just take the alginate or silicone right up to the eyelida, leaving the orb of the eye out of the cast, and replace it later with an eyebaal blank - a shape of the eye with corneal bulge. They are not especially characteristic - one persons eyeball is pretty much the same shape as another to the un-optomertrist trained eyes. It is also easier to cast the face with eyes closed, to avoid getting stuff in them during the casting process, and just opening them in the sculpt later.
Hello Stuart. I am new to casting and I truly appreciate your videos and online course. In this mould, you use both "triangle" keys and a channel. In the tongue mould, you just use the triangular keys. Are there guidelines around choosing which types of keys to use? For example, is it due to the size? Others will just use a channel and I understand this is useful for catching leaks? Do you find the larger keys create a better/more stable seal?
I use a grooved channel for the silicone to be kept in line all the way around when the mould halves are closed, as otherwise the silicone may move or sag even if the rigid portions of the front and back align. I like to use big keys on large moulds to make it easier to quickly align the sections. Both types will work.
When dealing with larger plaster moulds, I like to do the bigger block keys which will be visible from the outside when the mould halves are closed so they are not accidentally damaged when opened with a screwdriver etc.
could you have used PVA anywhere in this process instead of the wax spray? or both? if not, why?
Stuart, I greatly respect your demonstration on using fiberglass resins for making molds; but I believe for a precautionary you did not mention the use of a respirator or face mask during the use of fiber glassing materials. Resins of any kind have a toxic vapor that are carcinogens and a health risk.
Last year, I tried your way from this video in using fiberglass resins and polyester resins to make a mold of a clay sculpted head. I had a respirator on and off while using such materials while either being outside or inside for ventilation, plus wearing the safety gloves during the painting and laminating of the glass fibers.
But some wheres along the way, I was exposed to the chemical vapors of the polystyrene resin. As time passed on, I never thought about any health issues from the use of the fiberglass and polyester resin materials, until 4 months ago I started to experience shortness of breath and a lump developed on the left side of my chest. A doctor recently determined that I have a Large lymphoma mass causing my shortness of breath and disturbing my blood circulation. Now I'll be going through chemotherapy and radiation treatment for the mass.
But my point here is that I and maybe other admirers who watched your lesson demonstration here, should be warned about the caustic effects of fiberglass and polyester resin materials and to acquire a face mask or a painters respirator while using these materials.
I respect you and your demonstrations.
that's a good point. in the video I mention a download able workbook...the link is in the info beneath the video....and that workbook has a very clear warning regarding the use of materials and appropriate PPE.
Hi Stuart, I have a problem. My gelcoat cured fine on my chavant sculpt but not yet on the water based clay wall. I used a clear lacquer to seal the wall and applied three layers of J Wax ontop. When I started pulling away the wall after the resin had cured I realised the gelcoat is not fully cured. It was slimy when I applied the polyester resin, like I said that has cured and now 4 hours later the gelcoat still has not. Any ideas?
I had the same problem once. It seems that somehow the water in the clay inhibits or at least slows down curing time. But you can easily solve the problem by brushing directly some catalyst right on top of the resin (or gel coat) that has not cured.
might be stupid question but is there any way to make a face case with the eyes open?
Hi Stuart id like to start sculpting can you please let me know where you get your materials like head armature,clay,tools,plaster etc it will help out alot as i LOVE your work and how it looks. P.S will you be doing any tutorials on how to make a silicone mask like cfx,spfx etc? regards
+bruce Wayne PS Composites, Mouldlife and Neills Materials usually.
+stuart bray thank you :)
Actually though, I make my cores but they you can buy heads from Monster Makers and PS Composites
Yes, Stuart, It is a dark purple coloured liquid. It is an accelerator and I found on the internet that it may be dangerous if mistakenly mixed with the Catalyst. BANG!!!! So are you suggesting that I should try without using it? How much Catalyst should I use with the Gelocat and the Resin? Any help will be greatly appreciated
Stuart, I can't find chip brushes the ones that are made of Hog hair in my area. Can I use synthetic brushes for Gelcoat and laminating resin?
Yes, so long as the bristles do not melt in the solvents then that should be fine.
Whhy is this sooo interesting
any chance you could eventually show us fibreglass casting from a silicone or plaster mould?
Sure, although the essential laminating process of gelcoat and layers of mat is essentially the same. What kind of things are you particularly interested in seeing?
stuart bray i just wanted a video tutorial on creating a hard fibreglass mask from a silicone mould, your tutorials are the easiest to follow, sorry if that didn't answer what you asked me.
Okay. Good idea for a tutorials l!
Hello. Still answering questions? After the gel coat and the shredded FB....do you wait for things to dry in between the coats of resin and sheet FB ? Or does it all go on at once ?
I apply the glass strands as soon as the gelcoat is firm enough to take it without soaking in.
Then I will apply wetted out glass mat onto this. You woukd not want to apply the glass before the gelcoat has set up because the fibres coukd pish through and be visible on the mould surface.
If you left the gelcoat overnight then it would of course set thoroughly, but also may have warped as it did so without the strength of the laminated glass to keep its shape.
.... hey thank you very much. I watched all three vids....thankfully my pieces have less detail, so the process will be easier ...your instructions and the “flow” of the vid were extremely useful.
Can you use the just cornstarch baby powder instead of baby powder with talc?
I'm sure you can. If worried about inhaling dangerous chemicals though, the whole fibreglassing process should be avoided.
How many layers of fiberglass creates a shell mold that is practical to use? I am making one now using Bondo and fiberglass cloth. I do not need to capture detail. Iot is for a silicone mold. Fiberglass fabric seems rather sturdy.
It's available in different thickness, or weights. Usually the one I use is 600g which is the weight of a square Metre. That I use two layers with a third on any flange or edges which need drilling/bolting/clamping or levering against.
I wanted to make a fiberglass mold and purchased the following items from a local store:
1. Gel Coat
2. Mekp
3. Resin
4. Matt
The shopkeeper told me that I also needed COBALT in order to cure the Gelcoat and Resin and if I didn't add it the whole mixture would not cure. Is he right? Do I really need to use COBALT in order to cure the Gelcoat and the Laminating Resin?
I am not sure what it is. It may be that it is an accelerator, and most resins here are pre accelerated. Is it a purple coloured liquid? I guess the thing to do is a small test mix and see if it sets up without. If it does, then you don't need it, if it doesn't then you can try it again with!
No idea. I guess googling that or contact the resin manufacturer or the accelerator manufacturer. I would think you mix the prescribed amount into the resin first, and then add your catalyst later.
I Googled 'Cobalt Resin Ration' and found this: old.acmanet.org/cm/1206/feature_b1206.cfm
Hi Stewart, Can you recommend a reliable spray sealer for use as a barrier between wet clay and gelcoat ? Thanks Chris Garrard
Chris Garrard just clear car lacquer from car body repair shops should be fine
Thanks Stuart.
Also can you recommend the correct type of protective mask against the resin vapour ?
Chris Garrard yes. I like the 3M 4251 MAINTENANCE-FREE ORGANIC VAPOUR/PARTICULATE RESPIRATOR. No changing filters and very comfort.
Ok Thanks Stuart !
Can you re-use the clay once its removed?
In theory, yes. In practice, its not worth the hassle. While making walls etc, you need clean and smooth clay. To constantly hit little pieces of plaster and fibreglass in the recycled clay is annoying and time consuming. Most people trash it, as clay is pretty cheap compared with the cost of time to clean it.
Hi Stuart.... What kind of clay do you use...??? Michael Denmark...
Michael Rommedahl I use smooth grey water based pottery clay. Here it is called Buff smooth Grey clay. Some use WED clay whixh is paler and has additives to remain wetter for longer but I don't won't moisture to remain in there as it interferes with the resin setting so the cheaper clay for me is better.
what brand of gel coat and resin do you use?
I like Scott Bader best
where did you get the rubber bowl from?
They are plasterers 'splash bowls' and are available from fibreglass and plasterers suppliers usually. It's a flexible plastic, and great for flexing out set plaster or resin.
hey,talent,I m GIVENS,have u made some videos about paint silicone face
Todd and I are working on one now!
How much the lengt of the shpped fibreglass 5mm or what
Usually it is available in 6mm or 12mm lengths.
What's the name of clay which are you using?
Plastiline. I get it from a company called J.Herbin. It is Grey, grade 50.
cant find part two
Using Fibreglass Part 2
hi there can i fiberglass straight onto a clay sculpture ?
Yes, although you need to ensure the moisture in the water based clay is prevented from interfering with the gelcoat setting up. A clear acrylic car spray lacquer from auto shops is good, although you need good ventilation/extraction/protection when using it.
Then when that has dried, apply a way release (either a brush on liquid or aerosol spray) to allow the mould to separate clean and not bond to this clear lacquer coat.
great ! thanks for that im using air drying clay so im guessing it will be best to let it dry first for less mosture , also is it best to use fiber glass tissue instead of mat for a mask? and should i still make a wall , do one side first then remove the wall and continue with the other side ? , thanks this is great to get advise from someone !
Tissue is the final coat for a smoother surface...structurally it offers little. Don't think of a fine tissue as being for smaller things. Standard fibreglass mat will tap down over facial details, as the surface and texture is first covered with gelcoat anyway.
thanks stuart ,u just helped a theater student for her final project ! lol thanks again , lindsey
from where can I get clay.....not found from my country
Emad Saleh pottery supplies
Not found in my country
Can I make it
Es posible en español?
As in, can I do the entire tutorial again in Spanish, or are these materials available in Spain?
Can you get good detail using only fiberglass.
You need the gelcoat to capture the detail and to prevent the stamping of fibreglass mat with the brush from damaging the sculpted surface.
How thick would I need to make the gel coat?
Thank you for responding by the way. I appreciate it.
You brush on a thin layer only. Too thick will heat up and melt the plastiline or else distort and ripple as it expands in some areas.
Usually like a thick coat of paint.
Never use a brush for mixing the catalyst. The catalyst soaks into the brush. Good thing you added more catalyst than necessary.
Never had a problem - I suppose it is possible but if you keep mixing and you put pressure on the brush as you stir then whatever catalyst makes it into the bristles will be mixed into the resin which is equally soaking into the bristles.
Chop mat.
all that without the big reveal at the end???
This is part 1 of 3 videos. What reveal were you expecting?
@@stuartbray Hahaha, my bad! hahaha, my colleague and I were watching intently for ages, failing to notice that it was 1/3. haha sorry!
why the chopped strand??? you dont say why you need it !!
Chopped strand is a great first coat, and will get into nooks and crannies, making it less likely to have air pockets trapped in the recesses. The mat also lies over the soften shapes, made smoother by the built up chopped strands which reside in the corners etc.
Some people don't bother, or use a gel mat which does the same thing - I have lots of it and it works well for me.
thanks stuart .iv also discovered it makes the mould stronger . im having trouble getting fibreglass matt to stick to the bumpy parts like the nose of a animal it keeps bouncing up..how small should i cut the matt and if i cut it to small then it wont be very strong? ultimately im trying to make a mould which is commercially viable ready to sell so i beleive the quality of finish needs to be very good.any ideas?
The sizes of mat really only matter to the extent that they are not so big that they extend beyond the size of the mould too far. I think if you cut the mat to be approx 6-8 inches square, this should be fine. The overlapping and spreading nature of the fibres mean they attain strength no matter how small the pieces are.
Typically the larger the pieces you apply, the better as it is quicker. If you apply resin on the mat before placing the mat down, it will flex around corners etc more easily. It may be worth also mixing a small amount of the lay up resin with talc, so you can paste it into the difficult areas to glass. These are typically areas which stick up and protrude, as laminating the glass is easier on flat surfaces.
Sorry I spelt you name wrong !
So much unnecessary extra steps.
badabing badabing so many unnecessary comments.
badabing badabing I bet your molds don't last long.....