Hi Stuart, Thank you so much for the free download of your excellent tutorials. Your instructions are explicit and easy to follow. You are a wonderful teacher.
Thank you so much for uploading this tutorial! I have been searching for an in-depth instructional video for fiberglass used precisely in this manner and you delivered beautifully! Very excited to use what I’ve learned!
I just discovered you here and I'm watching every single video. I love the way you explain things and that you show every detail. I know how much time and effort you must be putting to make these videos so I'm grateful that you share your knowledge with the world. People like you REALLY inspire me. :)
Yes, it picks up everything. I use it often for appliances, and the gelcoat you use of the sculpted surface is specifically used to capture all the detail and replicate the surface precisely.
As the silicone gets into the mould, the air that is in there needs to escape easily so these holes allow that to happen. Also you can tap pockets of air in corners so putting numerous holes in reduces the incidence of that. The trade off is a little silicone lost in the 'bleeding' but that is a small price compared to a useless mould.
@ Michele Mathison - For some reason there is no 'reply' button so Ii am placing this as another comment which hopefully you will be able to read. In theroy, you could dispense with the gelcoat but in the interests of having a smooth interior surface which is easily cleaned, and a texture free surface against which the silicone can remove easily from, a gelcoat is advisable. Also the stamping down of the fibreglass in order to get a smooth, even finish in the fibre mat means that the glass texture would be stamped into the soft clay beneath. A gelcoat acts as a barrier against this also.
Stuart Bray I have learned from your video,and still want to learn more,I was just confused about the back,u didn't make a silicone just the front side of it ...thanks☺️
Hey. I think I mentioned it in one of the videos but basically the back is smooth without detail so a rigid mould which costs less that silicone is fine for the back and saves some money.
Thanks so much for taking the time to make these great videos. I really appreciate it, and love watching all your stuff. On a quick side note, it is still really difficult to hear your voice overs. You should be able to boost the audio in your editing software, and use that software's built in VU meter to find a good average level. That said, your videos are great, and I can't wait to see the next one!
Hi Stuart. Thanks for these great tutorials. my question is - do you really need to do a gel coat? If using a silicone mold all round your positive shape, can you not just go straight to a fiberglass and chop strand mother mold, making sure you get into all the shapes?
I would love to see the next steps you would need to do a silicone mask. I kinda of understand its injected and has a form inside to ensure thickness right?
Great work, but I have to say as someone who watches a lot of instructional videos, it's very unsatisfying to see a long detailed instruction video that goes through this whole long process but never then uses the tool/template/form that you spent many hours making. Using it and showing the results is sort of what shows your audience why we should use your technique. I hope this doesn't sound offensive because that aside, I appreciate the level of detail and care you out into making this, it's a terrific job and a really great video, solid information, truly.
I think PAX is about as cheap as it gets. Pros Aide is about £30 for 500ml, acrylics about £3 a tube...I think that is a baseline for expense that you can't really avoid without using stuff that isn't ok for skin. That would make a lot of paint which means cost per application is not bad at all. It's all the initial investment, as with any endeavour which requires stuff, which comes with the cost.
I’m confused. How I learned is using brush on platinum silicone building layers to your desired thickness then create the fiberglass mould. This way you use minimal silicone since it’s more costly then fiberglass. Is there a benefit in doing it your way I’m not aware of?
freedom fighter usually you need to add accelerators or thickeners to change the setting and viscocity which often reduces library life of the mould. Also the finish is much neater as the shape of the silicone and the surface is made with clay allowing a much neater finish. I have done most of the moulds in my life as brush ons as you say but pours like this produce a much nicer finished piece.
Question: How well does fiberglass resin pick up details? Say if you were thinking about using this to cast molds without the heavy ultra- cal or hydrocal? Does it pick up fine details?
Are you casting porcelain out of these are moulds? Or a resin that appears to mimic porcelain? Usually, porcelain or clay based items are slip cast from plaster moulds as the moisture in the clay can soak into porous clay, leaving the clay residue behind. Silicone, on the other hand, is waterproof, so it will not absorb moisture from clay slips, which are put in there. If you are using a resin, then I would suggest a wax based mould release spray.
whats the cheapest and best liquid type makeup to paint both, latex prosthetics and skin? i didn't want to use pax paint because id have to buy pros aide which is a little bit out of my budget to keep using for paint.
Really interesting - Would this work for a shape with an underside, such as a skull? I'm guessing it would but the mould would be in more pieces? Loving the channel!
Yes, you can make fibregass skulls from silicone moulds. As you suggest, the undercuts that such a shape will resent mean soft silicones or multiple piece moulds will make demoulding it without stressing the mould easier. Obviously, the more pieces involved in the mould then the more seam lines you will have to contend with on each cast from that mould. I have seen good skulls come from two part silicone mould though. The jaw is usually a separate piece, but the skull upper can be two parts.
Hi Stuart.... regarding this half of the face- why didn't you just do a "simple" brush on silicone mould and then fibreglass over it? (just curious- I'm not being a belter)
It's a good question. You'll get a better result, with neater keys and consistent controlled thickness of silicone because all that is established with clay. I really like a continuous key around the edge, and it's easier to do this in clay. Brush on moulds work well for the sort term but I like to use a pure silicone without adding thickeners or accelerators etc. if possible which can reduce library life. I have also a done brush on mould video.
@@stuartbray got ya! Thanks for replying! I’ve been studying these videos recently. I’m about to have a go at a pretty ambitious project… trial and error is my main thing… which I’m happy with (time and money currently allows)- given myself a 40% success rate on this one 😅. I can ping across what I’m working on if you’re interested (Paramedic… making a training aid)
I noticed you used, what appears to be, tin silicone. Is there an advantage, other than cost, to using tin rather than platinum, or does that depend on the material you intend to cast? Additionally, what sure hardness (range) do you recommend for something similar to your video example? I ask because I had originally purchased a platinum 15A, (to mould a corrected positive, elevated/extended bust armature for masks) thinking I might do a two or three piece fiberglass mother, and inside, make the silicone mould like a glove to stretch over the stone or urethane plastic, upon removal, rendering a seamless corrected bust. I also choose platinum for its archival properties, since I know I'll want to make multiple copies, but I may not want to do more than a few, presently; perhaps in a year or so, I might want to cast a few more. After watching your video, along with still being fairly green to the mould making aspects of fx, I find myself questioning my judgment, and original plan. I'd certainly appreciate your input.
Tin is usually what I use as I don't need to keep moulds forever. I have a small workshop and no wish to keep things I won't use on ongoing projects. you can use platinum silicone which as you say are best for archival reasons and will last longer by far. I personally like a two part silicone and around 20 to 25 shore for a standard human head. I will happily take the minimal work of repairing a small seam on a good mould Iver the difficulty of access found on a single socks like-single single piece mould which has no seam. There may of course be reasons to do male something seamless and if this is the case then that will require a silicone flexible enough to permit the stretching required to demold such an item. We made the auton heads for Dr Who as single piece masks with no seams by brushing on plat sil gel 10 in multiple layers over a clay sculpt. from this mould we swilled hollow urethane heads which we could pull out. Be case we swilled them, we didn't need to see inside whereas fibreglassing would indeed need the access and visual availability of a two part mould.
+stuart bray Ah! Okay, that makes sense. Thank you for your reply! Also, thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge with all of us who genuinely want to learn the proper ways of doing things. Having your videos, and pdf(s) significantly helps to augment my education, and I'm so grateful for it. 🌻
My opinion..I think you overdid the bleed holes a bit. I do molds and dont drill as many as you did and have no probs. Also sound on this vid is way off...really low. Great work though
Hi i am an young artist , please help me understanding the silicone material , send me the details of mixing silicone , where do i can buy this material,
If you look up Brick In The Yards channel (ua-cam.com/users/brickintheyard) they have lots of silicone videos. Check this one out for starters: Brush on silicone mold tutorial
Hi Stuart, Thank you so much for the free download of your excellent tutorials. Your instructions are explicit and easy to follow. You are a wonderful teacher.
These videos are great! Thanks so much. Super excited to start making some moulds and cast
Thank you so much for uploading this tutorial! I have been searching for an in-depth instructional video for fiberglass used precisely in this manner and you delivered beautifully! Very excited to use what I’ve learned!
I just discovered you here and I'm watching every single video. I love the way you explain things and that you show every detail. I know how much time and effort you must be putting to make these videos so I'm grateful that you share your knowledge with the world. People like you REALLY inspire me. :)
Yes, it picks up everything. I use it often for appliances, and the gelcoat you use of the sculpted surface is specifically used to capture all the detail and replicate the surface precisely.
You are such a great teacher! Thanks for taking such amount of time making this videos
Thanks Mercedes - very kind of you to say!
I.. I think I love you. Haha thank you so much for these videos man! You didn't have to offer them up for free so I'm very grateful!
Nice work, i have nothing to do whit this kind of work but altough i watched all 3 parts! very interesting stuff! good work!
great video series. was waiting for you to make a part at the end.
I would say about two days full on, open the cured silicone on the third morning. Much of that is waiting for stuff to set and dry.
-Stuart
Resin is Scott Bader and the silicone is 70-25 from Mouldlife.
-Stuart
As the silicone gets into the mould, the air that is in there needs to escape easily so these holes allow that to happen. Also you can tap pockets of air in corners so putting numerous holes in reduces the incidence of that. The trade off is a little silicone lost in the 'bleeding' but that is a small price compared to a useless mould.
stuart! you are such a talented! WOOOW! :)
@ Michele Mathison - For some reason there is no 'reply' button so Ii am placing this as another comment which hopefully you will be able to read.
In theroy, you could dispense with the gelcoat but in the interests of having a smooth interior surface which is easily cleaned, and a texture free surface against which the silicone can remove easily from, a gelcoat is advisable.
Also the stamping down of the fibreglass in order to get a smooth, even finish in the fibre mat means that the glass texture would be stamped into the soft clay beneath. A gelcoat acts as a barrier against this also.
This is really great, thanks!
I loved these videos and thank you.
Stuart Bray
I have learned from your video,and still want to learn more,I was just confused about the back,u didn't make a silicone just the front side of it ...thanks☺️
Hey. I think I mentioned it in one of the videos but basically the back is smooth without detail so a rigid mould which costs less that silicone is fine for the back and saves some money.
Thanks so much for taking the time to make these great videos. I really appreciate it, and love watching all your stuff. On a quick side note, it is still really difficult to hear your voice overs. You should be able to boost the audio in your editing software, and use that software's built in VU meter to find a good average level.
That said, your videos are great, and I can't wait to see the next one!
Hi Stuart. Thanks for these great tutorials. my question is - do you really need to do a gel coat? If using a silicone mold all round your positive shape, can you not just go straight to a fiberglass and chop strand mother mold, making sure you get into all the shapes?
Thanks for this! Very interesting!
I would love to see the next steps you would need to do a silicone mask. I kinda of understand its injected and has a form inside to ensure thickness right?
Great work, but I have to say as someone who watches a lot of instructional videos, it's very unsatisfying to see a long detailed instruction video that goes through this whole long process but never then uses the tool/template/form that you spent many hours making. Using it and showing the results is sort of what shows your audience why we should use your technique. I hope this doesn't sound offensive because that aside, I appreciate the level of detail and care you out into making this, it's a terrific job and a really great video, solid information, truly.
I think PAX is about as cheap as it gets. Pros Aide is about £30 for 500ml, acrylics about £3 a tube...I think that is a baseline for expense that you can't really avoid without using stuff that isn't ok for skin. That would make a lot of paint which means cost per application is not bad at all. It's all the initial investment, as with any endeavour which requires stuff, which comes with the cost.
I’m confused. How I learned is using brush on platinum silicone building layers to your desired thickness then create the fiberglass mould. This way you use minimal silicone since it’s more costly then fiberglass. Is there a benefit in doing it your way I’m not aware of?
freedom fighter usually you need to add accelerators or thickeners to change the setting and viscocity which often reduces library life of the mould. Also the finish is much neater as the shape of the silicone and the surface is made with clay allowing a much neater finish. I have done most of the moulds in my life as brush ons as you say but pours like this produce a much nicer finished piece.
THIS IS GREAT
Question:
How well does fiberglass resin pick up details? Say if you were thinking about using this to cast molds without the heavy ultra- cal or hydrocal? Does it pick up fine details?
Awesome
OMG THANK YOU ~ CAN THIS SAME METHOD BE USED ON SILICONE DOLL PARTS TO MAKE DOLL MOULD PARTS TO MAKE PORCELAIN DOLL PARTS?
Are you casting porcelain out of these are moulds? Or a resin that appears to mimic porcelain?
Usually, porcelain or clay based items are slip cast from plaster moulds as the moisture in the clay can soak into porous clay, leaving the clay residue behind.
Silicone, on the other hand, is waterproof, so it will not absorb moisture from clay slips, which are put in there.
If you are using a resin, then I would suggest a wax based mould release spray.
whats the cheapest and best liquid type makeup to paint both, latex prosthetics and skin? i didn't want to use pax paint because id have to buy pros aide which is a little bit out of my budget to keep using for paint.
Bien, good
Really interesting - Would this work for a shape with an underside, such as a skull? I'm guessing it would but the mould would be in more pieces?
Loving the channel!
Yes, you can make fibregass skulls from silicone moulds. As you suggest, the undercuts that such a shape will resent mean soft silicones or multiple piece moulds will make demoulding it without stressing the mould easier.
Obviously, the more pieces involved in the mould then the more seam lines you will have to contend with on each cast from that mould. I have seen good skulls come from two part silicone mould though. The jaw is usually a separate piece, but the skull upper can be two parts.
Thank you! Something for me to try after I have some practice under my belt :)
Hi Stuart.... regarding this half of the face- why didn't you just do a "simple" brush on silicone mould and then fibreglass over it? (just curious- I'm not being a belter)
It's a good question. You'll get a better result, with neater keys and consistent controlled thickness of silicone because all that is established with clay.
I really like a continuous key around the edge, and it's easier to do this in clay. Brush on moulds work well for the sort term but I like to use a pure silicone without adding thickeners or accelerators etc. if possible which can reduce library life.
I have also a done brush on mould video.
@@stuartbray got ya! Thanks for replying! I’ve been studying these videos recently. I’m about to have a go at a pretty ambitious project… trial and error is my main thing… which I’m happy with (time and money currently allows)- given myself a 40% success rate on this one 😅.
I can ping across what I’m working on if you’re interested (Paramedic… making a training aid)
that you used silicone?
Is this chavant clay? Or natural clay?
The clay used to make the blanket around the head initially? That was water based pottery clay
I noticed you used, what appears to be, tin silicone. Is there an advantage, other than cost, to using tin rather than platinum, or does that depend on the material you intend to cast?
Additionally, what sure hardness (range) do you recommend for something similar to your video example?
I ask because I had originally purchased a platinum 15A, (to mould a corrected positive, elevated/extended bust armature for masks) thinking I might do a two or three piece fiberglass mother, and inside, make the silicone mould like a glove to stretch over the stone or urethane plastic, upon removal, rendering a seamless corrected bust. I also choose platinum for its archival properties, since I know I'll want to make multiple copies, but I may not want to do more than a few, presently; perhaps in a year or so, I might want to cast a few more.
After watching your video, along with still being fairly green to the mould making aspects of fx, I find myself questioning my judgment, and original plan. I'd certainly appreciate your input.
Tin is usually what I use as I don't need to keep moulds forever. I have a small workshop and no wish to keep things I won't use on ongoing projects.
you can use platinum silicone which as you say are best for archival reasons and will last longer by far.
I personally like a two part silicone and around 20 to 25 shore for a standard human head. I will happily take the minimal work of repairing a small seam on a good mould Iver the difficulty of access found on a single socks like-single single piece mould which has no seam.
There may of course be reasons to do male something seamless and if this is the case then that will require a silicone flexible enough to permit the stretching required to demold such an item.
We made the auton heads for Dr Who as single piece masks with no seams by brushing on plat sil gel 10 in multiple layers over a clay sculpt.
from this mould we swilled hollow urethane heads which we could pull out. Be case we swilled them, we didn't need to see inside whereas fibreglassing would indeed need the access and visual availability of a two part mould.
+stuart bray Ah! Okay, that makes sense. Thank you for your reply! Also, thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge with all of us who genuinely want to learn the proper ways of doing things.
Having your videos, and pdf(s) significantly helps to augment my education, and I'm
so grateful for it. 🌻
+Gothic awesome! That's why I do it. I care about making things and I learn as much from other people.
My opinion..I think you overdid the bleed holes a bit. I do molds and dont drill as many as you did and have no probs. Also sound on this vid is way off...really low. Great work though
Hi i am an young artist , please help me understanding the silicone material , send me the details of mixing silicone , where do i can buy this material,
If you look up Brick In The Yards channel (ua-cam.com/users/brickintheyard) they have lots of silicone videos. Check this one out for starters: Brush on silicone mold tutorial
you can hardly hear what you're saying on this one :(
8th view!