Part 2 of my 496 stroker build! In this video I go over how to assemble pistons and check end gaps. Don't forget to subscribe so you don't miss the build process!
Nice video Aidan! I like your style. Did you happen to mock up the crank, piston, and rod assembly in the block to see where your piston ends up. You want the top of the piston level with the block, aka zero deck. This is very important for quench. On my engine, a brand new ZZ454 block, I found the piston about .013 down in the hole....This is no good. Have to deck the block, will cut .010" off. Also there is a special tool to install the spiral locks, it is like $100, I think this is well worth it.
I appreciate the comment! I have yet to check the piston-to-deck clearance, but my block was NOT decked. Thankfully there is no interference elsewhere! I will measure it when it is time to purchase head gaskets, hoping to have more videos out soon, I will have to check out that spiral lock tool too! Thanks for watching!
My pistons don't have that overlap where the oil ring goes over top of the wrist pin hole. I looked them up (IC788) and they do say they are for a stroker. Also I show a different ring gap for the second ring in my instructions. Was there a reason you gapped them the same that I missed?
It's possible that the piston or connecting rod length or the two combined still make up a stroker length. As far as the end gap goes, I would follow the instructions given from the manufacturer. They may have a different tolerances or be for a different setup (might call for different end gaps if you are building a true race motor or a supercharged engine, ect.)
Pure craftsmanship. One thing I do when I am not using a ring expander to install the rings is that I take the trailing end of the ring as I spiral it on the piston and I put my fingernail under the sharp edge and slide it down over the piston to the correct groove and then pull my nail out. This prevents the end of the ring from scratching AND helps the ring slide over the top ring groove if it isn't the top ring.
Thanks for the post. I learned how stroker kit builders compensate for the increased crank stroke length by moving the wrist pin up toward the piston crown. I appreciate that you didn't assume I knew that already. - I didn't. Looking forward to part 3
I'm glad you enjoyed it Tom, we learn something new everyday! I've watched quite a few of other people's build videos and with this series I just wanted to include stuff that isn't often mentioned or is regularly skimmed over. Part 3 will be coming out in a few days, thanks for watching!
I'm really enjoying this assembly series, but I do have one question... How do you "Press up"? That's like pulling? I was watching while you were saying it, but i really couldn't see what you meant. It's at the 11:36-11:38 time frame. Thanks!
Thanks for watching I'm glad you're enjoying them! What I mean is if you pull up it kind of pushes the opposite side down so it can sort of "walk in" as opposed to just having constant downwards pressure on the entire ring. Hope that helps!
@@Aidansbuilds Thank you, Sir! Seriously, this is a great series. I appreciate your laid back attitude, and the way you approach your lesson blocks. Broken down into manageable segments that cover the right details. Again, thank you for your time!
Thank you, and I plan on it! It would be nice to know the actual numbers it puts out. I definitely plan on a ride along, as well as the actual engine swap too. Thanks for watching!
I just ran into something interesting. My scat rods came with the ARP 2000 cap screws and they have them (caps to rods) connected for some reason. So I went to unbolt them so I can clean and install the bearings, and I can't get back them out! I don't know what the heck is going on. Lefty loosie on these, right? My first impression is they are all over torked by a long ways. I'm not missing something here that you're aware of, am I?
Mine were very tight as well, I believe mine are also ARP 2000. I had to put the connecting rods into a vise to get them loose. Those bolts are torque to tighten not stretch to tighten so watch out for that too when you get them out and it is time to install them!
There is a special tool you can purchase that will separate the lower end of the rod from the upper end. When you tighten the tool, it expands the 2 ends. I wouldn't use a vise, you could end up damaging the rod.
@@ekitching That is probably the better route, I was worried about damaging the rod by bending it. I think I got lucky, but with each build I do at work, I always think about ways to make the next one better and this personal project is no different. Thanks for your knowledge!
Tuned In for the big block, stayed for the big hair.
Haha thanks for watching!
I was quoted $ 2170.00 from Scat motors for a forged rotating assembly, was CNC Motorsports close to that price ? Thanks.
My crank was cast but the pistons are forged, it was around $1900 USD (~ $2550 CAD)
I could order the cast crank assembly for right around that price ! I'm in NY so no Tariff here.
Nice video Aidan! I like your style. Did you happen to mock up the crank, piston, and rod assembly in the block to see where your piston ends up. You want the top of the piston level with the block, aka zero deck. This is very important for quench. On my engine, a brand new ZZ454 block, I found the piston about .013 down in the hole....This is no good. Have to deck the block, will cut .010" off. Also there is a special tool to install the spiral locks, it is like $100, I think this is well worth it.
I appreciate the comment! I have yet to check the piston-to-deck clearance, but my block was NOT decked. Thankfully there is no interference elsewhere! I will measure it when it is time to purchase head gaskets, hoping to have more videos out soon, I will have to check out that spiral lock tool too! Thanks for watching!
IMO deck should definitely been checked when building a stroker like that seeking some power, not a backyard rings and bearings job
All I need is the rods n crank to make a 496 I got everything else
Nice!
My pistons don't have that overlap where the oil ring goes over top of the wrist pin hole. I looked them up (IC788) and they do say they are for a stroker. Also I show a different ring gap for the second ring in my instructions. Was there a reason you gapped them the same that I missed?
It's possible that the piston or connecting rod length or the two combined still make up a stroker length. As far as the end gap goes, I would follow the instructions given from the manufacturer. They may have a different tolerances or be for a different setup (might call for different end gaps if you are building a true race motor or a supercharged engine, ect.)
@@Aidansbuilds Will do, thanks again!
I love this guy.
Haha thank you!
Pure craftsmanship.
One thing I do when I am not using a ring expander to install the rings is that I take the trailing end of the ring as I spiral it on the piston and I put my fingernail under the sharp edge and slide it down over the piston to the correct groove and then pull my nail out. This prevents the end of the ring from scratching AND helps the ring slide over the top ring groove if it isn't the top ring.
Thanks for the post. I learned how stroker kit builders compensate for the increased crank stroke length by moving the wrist pin up toward the piston crown. I appreciate that you didn't assume I knew that already. - I didn't. Looking forward to part 3
I'm glad you enjoyed it Tom, we learn something new everyday! I've watched quite a few of other people's build videos and with this series I just wanted to include stuff that isn't often mentioned or is regularly skimmed over. Part 3 will be coming out in a few days, thanks for watching!
I'm really enjoying this assembly series, but I do have one question... How do you "Press up"? That's like pulling? I was watching while you were saying it, but i really couldn't see what you meant. It's at the 11:36-11:38 time frame. Thanks!
Thanks for watching I'm glad you're enjoying them! What I mean is if you pull up it kind of pushes the opposite side down so it can sort of "walk in" as opposed to just having constant downwards pressure on the entire ring. Hope that helps!
@@Aidansbuilds Thank you, Sir! Seriously, this is a great series. I appreciate your laid back attitude, and the way you approach your lesson blocks. Broken down into manageable segments that cover the right details. Again, thank you for your time!
@@INFIDEL82AA Thank you for your support! I appreciate the feedback too!
Keep up the good work. I can't wait to see this thing running. Are you going to have the hp figures and perhaps a ride along when it's finished?
Thank you, and I plan on it! It would be nice to know the actual numbers it puts out. I definitely plan on a ride along, as well as the actual engine swap too. Thanks for watching!
I just ran into something interesting. My scat rods came with the ARP 2000 cap screws and they have them (caps to rods) connected for some reason. So I went to unbolt them so I can clean and install the bearings, and I can't get back them out! I don't know what the heck is going on. Lefty loosie on these, right? My first impression is they are all over torked by a long ways. I'm not missing something here that you're aware of, am I?
Mine were very tight as well, I believe mine are also ARP 2000. I had to put the connecting rods into a vise to get them loose. Those bolts are torque to tighten not stretch to tighten so watch out for that too when you get them out and it is time to install them!
@@Aidansbuilds Ok thank you so much!
There is a special tool you can purchase that will separate the lower end of the rod from the upper end. When you tighten the tool, it expands the 2 ends. I wouldn't use a vise, you could end up damaging the rod.
@@ekitching That is probably the better route, I was worried about damaging the rod by bending it. I think I got lucky, but with each build I do at work, I always think about ways to make the next one better and this personal project is no different. Thanks for your knowledge!
where were you able to find these pistons? Thanks
I got the whole rotating assembly from cnc motorsports!
Your pistons don’t require 4 spirolox?
Not these ones, just 2 a piston.
Spiral locks are the best. Pressing pins PITA.
I agree! It was tricky to figure out at first but once I got the hang of them they went in real easy!
I’d rather use press fit pins, or Snap ring floating pins, spiral locks I’ve found can lock up the piston easy
@@Shade_tree_garage01 Interesting, what do you think causes that?
@@AidansbuildsThey make a tool that makes installing them a breeze. I found out about it on The Horsepower Monsters channel.
@@JR-The_Godfather_of_Horsepower I'll check them out, thanks!