Wow i dont understand the insults...camera guy and son did great job overall...this is you tube not universal studios for those willing to give bad critics.
I don't get the negative comments about the camera man. I thought it was held pretty steady compared to a lot of videos I've seen. The picture quality is clear, I can hear everything being said. What more can you ask for? I think some of the negativity is just from some people who don't fully understand this themselves and are venting frustration for their lack of ability to grasp how it all works.
Flat tappet lifters are supposed to rotate under normal conditions. The cam is actually ground with a slight angle as to spin the lifters slightly with each valve opening. This spreads out the wear surface and everything lasts much longer. If you run an engine without valve covers you should see the pushrods spin as well. As for the oil, the grove in the lifter will ensure that it always has oil pressure.
Man, those comments really tick me off... Good for you for sticking up for your dad that way... people need to learn common courtesy and not post things they would not say to someone in person. Most of them don't have the balls to say that stuff to someone's face, and if they don't have the balls for that then they sure as hell shouldn't post it on youtube... cowards...
finally a simple video to explain this... thanks this helped a lot. Its pretty much what i expected, but nice to have someone else confirm my thoughts on how to do this. Although id like to do this with the air manifold and dist back in place where i marked it, once i get the new lifters in there...there should be enough rod left to wiggle around to check tightness right under the rockers.
A good pushrod chucked in a drill press can be used to pump up the lifter. Place the lifter in a metal can full of clean oil. The drill press lever action expels tiny air bubbles which will stay in the lifter and cause tickage. Synthetic oil is bad for forming air bubbles in hyd. lifters. Alas, Lucas oil stabilizer can be used with conventional or synthetic oils to prevent air bubbles from forming. With Lucas, lifters bleed down less overnight. Engine pre-lubers prevent start-up noise.
@Screammy89 Not too hard. Depending on the position of the camshaft some will protrude out of the bore and can grabbed with fingers (if a lifter lobe is bad, it may get stuck). Try using a pair of needle-nosed pliers to get the harder ones. As far as pushrods they just pull right out once you remove the rocker arm. Roll these on a flat surface to see if they are bent or not.
@lioookm I hope this was helpful. But, please know that it was my father holding the camera, he's old school, and doesnt know how to use electronics real well. So, no, he's not a 'fucking douche bag'.
the two dots on the timing set (Cam sprocket and crank sprocket) sets your piston to cam (valve) timing so the only timing settings you have to make later is your ignition timing.
@Screammy89 Ford 4.6L does not have push rods. THe Ford 4.6L engine is a modular engine with over head camshafts. If you have a loud knock, its probably the #7 rod bearing as those are very well known for going bad.
The oil hole at the 'top' of the lifter should face the valley, its the same place where the pushrod sits within the top of the lifter. The hole in the side of the lifter lubricates the lifter bore.
the marks on the timing set only indicate TDC for cylinder #1, but if you have a timing wheel attached to the end of the crank (the lil paper like black and white wheel) you can in fact turn to TDC for each cylinder and adjust each set of lifters for that specific cylinder. I do personally prefer to just rotate and watch my lifters, but Finn isn't entirely incorrect
Yes, that is standard procedure. But we weren't installing a custom race cam with a different base circle or anything, so we were fine to use the standard length pushrods
Yeah....what's with all the negativity? I forgot when the proper points of adjustment were for SBCs, and BAM, there I go. Very good video, tell your pops he's awesome. I guess you're alright too... :D
which direction do the oil holes go on the lifters towards the Vally or away towards the oil holes cut into the inside of the lifter bore ya kno towards the cylinders ? just wondering
I forgot to "pump up" my lifters, how can I get them working properly now? I do hear some chatter from them still after a full head rebuild, new lifters, valves, springs etc..
I am replacing my push rods because I believe that one is bent causing a tapping due to a missed shift. I removed my the head and before I start unbolting the rocker arms to get to the pushrods. Keeping them in order is important and I will but my question is when re installing the new pushrods and rocker arms do the rocker arms need to be torqued to a specific weight or just until they are snug? I have a ls1 engine and I just wanna make sure I am reinstalling correctly.
Can you post a video on how to remove a broken push rod?? I have no clue and I want to try to do this my self...Its for a 2003 Kia Sedona or am I getting in to something that is way complex??? Any help would be great thanks!
didnt you guys do a breakdown on removing/dis-assembling an rear differential?? im still looking for that video but im subscribing to your channel because you guys do a great job on sbc breakdowns. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!! MORE VIDS!!!
I was just curious, I am re assembling my lt1 in June due to a minor leak in one head gasket. I have had two friends who are very good mechanics tell me I should drain the lifters before re assembly. How would you go about doing this? Would this be the last thing to do before it would be fine to start the rebuild?
Can i Re use Lifters? and do those rockers require tall valve covers, AND all these should fit on a Vortec engine correct? Vortec heads rather thanks alot!!!
Might b a dumb question but still learning.. I have a 400 SBC n going to rebuild the top end with a edelbrock power package. I am looking at installing new lifters n push rods.. but the hydraulic lifters are $500.. Is it really necessary to replace the lifters and push rods.?
lol it skipped the part i wanted to see. installng push rods. on a ford 4.6 i believe i have a bad one. its knocking like crazy. and how hard is it to remove lifters?
this was a real good video alotta detail explained, but yea your dad is funny these old people will never be up to date with the technology its moving to fast for them hahaha i know ma people the same way!
Help im having a problem with number 6 cyclinder on a 350 that will get oil up to the rockers and then go dry . the rest of them are getting plenty of oil .
@MrHaystack510 Hey bro. I'm glad you found my video helpful. My dad is not technology saavy however. He was the camera man. I dont really appreciate you calling him a dumbass. Thanks.
This video is packed full of misinformation. My recommendation is to learn the proper way to do things before attempting to teach. People should disregard this video entirely.
Ok.. there is some very misleading information here ....first off ( step # 1 ) you have to establish push rod length , ( step # 2 ) use the proper assembly lube.... Not " what ever you got " ( step # 3 ) after zero lash... There needs to be a preload on the lifter unless its a solid lifter then you have to set the valve lash at the predetermined gap . Also he should have explained proper camshaft lifter break in with the " right " oil with right amount of zinc and phosphorus , I remember when I was a young punk like that... I didn't know shit at that age either !
DO NOT GO A HALF TURN TIGHTER EVER!!!!!!!!! I have seen to many people do exactly that and they start bending valves. Just take em to that point then lock em down. If they are to loose the worst thing that can happen is you have to do re tighten them. If you bend a valve. You call it day
Yes but I've had a recent issue with a big block chevy where the valves got soo out of wack to where the rocker jumped off te valves and the cam ate the lifter chewed it up and spit it threw every single bearing throughout the entire engine.....
Pushrods?? I have a sbc in a 94 Camaro Holley carb flat tops, umi suspension hooker headers needs some help finding fbody Camaro parts any suggestions any one???
Wow i dont understand the insults...camera guy and son did great job overall...this is you tube not universal studios for those willing to give bad critics.
I don't get the negative comments about the camera man. I thought it was held pretty steady compared to a lot of videos I've seen. The picture quality is clear, I can hear everything being said. What more can you ask for? I think some of the negativity is just from some people who don't fully understand this themselves and are venting frustration for their lack of ability to grasp how it all works.
Flat tappet lifters are supposed to rotate under normal conditions. The cam is actually ground with a slight angle as to spin the lifters slightly with each valve opening. This spreads out the wear surface and everything lasts much longer. If you run an engine without valve covers you should see the pushrods spin as well. As for the oil, the grove in the lifter will ensure that it always has oil pressure.
Man, those comments really tick me off... Good for you for sticking up for your dad that way... people need to learn common courtesy and not post things they would not say to someone in person. Most of them don't have the balls to say that stuff to someone's face, and if they don't have the balls for that then they sure as hell shouldn't post it on youtube... cowards...
finally a simple video to explain this... thanks this helped a lot. Its pretty much what i expected, but nice to have someone else confirm my thoughts on how to do this. Although id like to do this with the air manifold and dist back in place where i marked it, once i get the new lifters in there...there should be enough rod left to wiggle around to check tightness right under the rockers.
A good pushrod chucked in a drill press can be used to pump up the lifter.
Place the lifter in a metal can full of clean oil. The drill press lever action expels tiny air bubbles which will stay in the lifter and cause tickage. Synthetic oil is bad for forming air bubbles in hyd. lifters. Alas, Lucas oil stabilizer can be used with conventional or synthetic oils to prevent air bubbles from forming.
With Lucas, lifters bleed down less overnight. Engine pre-lubers prevent start-up noise.
@Screammy89 Not too hard. Depending on the position of the camshaft some will protrude out of the bore and can grabbed with fingers (if a lifter lobe is bad, it may get stuck). Try using a pair of needle-nosed pliers to get the harder ones. As far as pushrods they just pull right out once you remove the rocker arm. Roll these on a flat surface to see if they are bent or not.
@lioookm I hope this was helpful. But, please know that it was my father holding the camera, he's old school, and doesnt know how to use electronics real well. So, no, he's not a 'fucking douche bag'.
I don't understand the camera issues everyone was talking about. Helpful video, everything turned out fine - thanks!
A lot of good tips there, thanks for taking the time to post.
the two dots on the timing set (Cam sprocket and crank sprocket) sets your piston to cam (valve) timing so the only timing settings you have to make later is your ignition timing.
hey yer dad seemed enthusiastic; that's cool. nice video
@Screammy89 Ford 4.6L does not have push rods. THe Ford 4.6L engine is a modular engine with over head camshafts. If you have a loud knock, its probably the #7 rod bearing as those are very well known for going bad.
Thanks for all the comments. I am glad this video was helpful.
The oil hole at the 'top' of the lifter should face the valley, its the same place where the pushrod sits within the top of the lifter.
The hole in the side of the lifter lubricates the lifter bore.
the marks on the timing set only indicate TDC for cylinder #1, but if you have a timing wheel attached to the end of the crank (the lil paper like black and white wheel) you can in fact turn to TDC for each cylinder and adjust each set of lifters for that specific cylinder. I do personally prefer to just rotate and watch my lifters, but Finn isn't entirely incorrect
Yes, that is standard procedure. But we weren't installing a custom race cam with a different base circle or anything, so we were fine to use the standard length pushrods
Did you check pushrod length? I was told you need to use a solid lifter or some "checking springs" to determine proper pushrod length.
Yeah....what's with all the negativity? I forgot when the proper points of adjustment were for SBCs, and BAM, there I go.
Very good video, tell your pops he's awesome.
I guess you're alright too... :D
which direction do the oil holes go on the lifters towards the Vally or away towards the oil holes cut into the inside of the lifter bore ya kno towards the cylinders ? just wondering
the pushrods magically go in by themselves
I forgot to "pump up" my lifters, how can I get them working properly now? I do hear some chatter from them still after a full head rebuild, new lifters, valves, springs etc..
I am replacing my push rods because I believe that one is bent causing a tapping due to a missed shift. I removed my the head and before I start unbolting the rocker arms to get to the pushrods. Keeping them in order is important and I will but my question is when re installing the new pushrods and rocker arms do the rocker arms need to be torqued to a specific weight or just until they are snug? I have a ls1 engine and I just wanna make sure I am reinstalling correctly.
Can you post a video on how to remove a broken push rod?? I have no clue and I want to try to do this my self...Its for a 2003 Kia Sedona or am I getting in to something that is way complex??? Any help would be great thanks!
didnt you guys do a breakdown on removing/dis-assembling an rear differential?? im still looking for that video but im subscribing to your channel because you guys do a great job on sbc breakdowns. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!! MORE VIDS!!!
Also should make sure your holes on the lifters face the center of the block
I was just curious, I am re assembling my lt1 in June due to a minor leak in one head gasket. I have had two friends who are very good mechanics tell me I should drain the lifters before re assembly. How would you go about doing this? Would this be the last thing to do before it would be fine to start the rebuild?
Can i Re use Lifters?
and do those rockers require tall valve covers, AND all these should fit on a Vortec engine correct? Vortec heads rather thanks alot!!!
Might b a dumb question but still learning.. I have a 400 SBC n going to rebuild the top end with a edelbrock power package. I am looking at installing new lifters n push rods.. but the hydraulic lifters are $500.. Is it really necessary to replace the lifters and push rods.?
lol it skipped the part i wanted to see. installng push rods. on a ford 4.6 i believe i have a bad one. its knocking like crazy. and how hard is it to remove lifters?
This engine was installed in the '77 Camaro, seen in another video.
Hey do I have to have every piston top dead center when I'm adjusting the pushrods? And how do I know it's TDC
this was a real good video alotta detail explained, but yea your dad is funny these old people will never be up to date with the technology its moving to fast for them hahaha i know ma people the same way!
Help im having a problem with number 6 cyclinder on a 350 that will get oil up to the rockers and then go dry . the rest of them are getting plenty of oil .
Back to school some more?! Jeez!
THats funny! going to school for medicine, but schooling US on car engines/components! hahaha
Nice C4 is the back.
props to u brutha , and to Pop 4 helpin u.sorry for shit talkers , but hey those who cant talk shit.
I have the same rocker arms on sbc350 need help adjusting
Did you post a video on the first start of that motor, or is that someone else's job?
Oh boo! :D
( UCF )
My sister graduated from USF with a bio med degree
thats cool!
Good video keep it up man
is this the same procedure for a 2001 3.8 OHV Mustang?
@MrHaystack510 Hey bro. I'm glad you found my video helpful. My dad is not technology saavy however. He was the camera man. I dont really appreciate you calling him a dumbass. Thanks.
Hey john, nice video.
USF as in University of South Florida?
You guys know anyone good in the miami area in florida to install my springs and rockers?
my polylocks rub the top of my roller rocker arms what can be the problem
or whatever else you got? just a little bit, you can never use to much? this on top of this? thanks, now i can build a chevy
lol, it made sense to me. Of course I've been watching about a hundred of these videos over the last couple of months. Doing lots of engine work! :)
This video is packed full of misinformation. My recommendation is to learn the proper way to do things before attempting to teach. People should disregard this video entirely.
I don't think that was us. I would like to make a few more videos, but haven't had time. Thanks!!
what state r u in??
Yeah, I recently graduated in May 2011.
Yeah, goto my channel and look for the 77 Camaro video.
Ok.. there is some very misleading information here ....first off ( step # 1 ) you have to establish push rod length , ( step # 2 ) use the proper assembly lube.... Not " what ever you got " ( step # 3 ) after zero lash... There needs to be a preload on the lifter unless its a solid lifter then you have to set the valve lash at the predetermined gap . Also he should have explained proper camshaft lifter break in with the " right " oil with right amount of zinc and phosphorus , I remember when I was a young punk like that... I didn't know shit at that age either !
DO NOT GO A HALF TURN TIGHTER EVER!!!!!!!!! I have seen to many people do exactly that and they start bending valves. Just take em to that point then lock em down. If they are to loose the worst thing that can happen is you have to do re tighten them. If you bend a valve. You call it day
Yes but I've had a recent issue with a big block chevy where the valves got soo out of wack to where the rocker jumped off te valves and the cam ate the lifter chewed it up and spit it threw every single bearing throughout the entire engine.....
I have a plastic bracket that cracked that goes around the lifters is important or miscellaneous
he was at TDC..... the marks on the timing chain indicate that he was TDC you cant adjust all ur valves at TDC....
First vid I found with this thuro of an explanation, many thanks...
you DO NOT finger spin pushrods , you move them up and down to find proper 0 lash.
Per cylinder!
Pushrods?? I have a sbc in a 94 Camaro Holley carb flat tops, umi suspension hooker headers needs some help finding fbody Camaro parts any suggestions any one???
have to be torqued to 22 lbs looks like were on the same boat
nice finger
Ha ha, I am at UCF College of Medicine in Lake Nona now.
oh men look at those beautys
do you have a video of a mator you rebuilt in a car???
yor dads cool as fuck ! fuck wat dude is sayning
Man, That camera's mic is shit. But thanks anyways..
i like your video, but you camera man shouldn't drink any red bulls, can't see what your doing, camera is all over the place
This kid is a little special..... Completely ignore everything he just said....