I have had several blocks prepped by a few different machine shops here in Texas, and NONE have been cleaned this well by a long shot!! You do quality work and that’s rare today. My hats off to you sir!!
We use a soda blaster for cleaning the carbon out of aluminum heads. It’s not nearly as abrasive as glass bead which makes it great for aluminum. Soda also dissolves which gives you the piece of mind that no abrasive is left anywhere in the head
I'm not saying we are better, I'm giving you the proof that we are better ;) In my opinion, this is one of the best forms of advertising. You can yell slogans all day, but if your customers know that you are doing good work, this is the best advertisement you can get.
When I worked at the machine shop,we baked blocks and iron heads in a giant oven, usually 500 degrees for 4 hours,then it would go into the shot peen machine ,then the tumbler. The best method by far for steel and iron is immersion in a acid tank
At time about 9:00 seeing the cleaning and also seeing you have removed the frost plugs before cleaning . I remember long ago handing over my old 396 Chevy block to an engine shop , they also popped out the frost plugs for cleaning . It then went out to an industrial ultra sonic cleaning shop . The engine block was so slopped with old grease the shop put it in right side up then upside down then laying on its back . Each was about a ten or twelve minute cycle . After which running clear water through almost all of the passage ways then placing it into some kind of a small drying room . Good video ; removing the frost plugs is such a good idea .
Other processes to consider include vapor (slurry) blasting, dry ice blasting, laser cleaning, and ultrasonic cleaning. Of these, vapor blasting is probably the most cost effective. Soda blasting is also effective against carbon deposits on aluminum, and very, very gentle on fine casting details.
we have used dry ice blasting on are National machinery cold heading machines in Melbourne works great no trapped glass bead or sand blasting dust , just some water can you use a vapor degreaser like trichlorethylene is this still legal in the USA
That dry ice blasting works amazing we used it to clean our machine at a plastic pellet company i worked for. They didn’t keep it though but it did work great.
Y’all and precision transmission in Texas are by far the best shops I have seen! Y’all take pride in your work, attention to detail is there and the knowledge is well used in both shops!
Excellent video, thanks, I was a machinist for a large company that made turbofan engines. Back in the day before anyone knew better, if you were rebuilding an engine, you hauled your iron into the shop at night and we had giant heated trichloroethylene tanks with sprayers. In an hour you had the cleanest blocks and heads you've ever seen going back out to your truck. We now know that trichlor is a cancer causing substance, but damn did it clean!
I worked in a shop in Wisconsin where cleaning was a full time job for one person (myself for a while) We had a large oven and steel shot blaster, large soda blasting cabinet, bead blaster, larger sonic tank that used some kind of mild solvent, and a large and small washer. We ran anything we could bake and steel bast (some iron parts we didn't bake such as Mack diesel heads they would sometimes fail pressure test after baking or certain Pontiac heads had small oil passages that were hard to clean out. Also diesel heads with oil and fuel passages we would bake and wire wheel or soda. So we might sonic and soda or bake and soda), aluminum we sonic tanked then soda blasted. Soda is a pain because it takes longer and is expensive because it only goes through once(no recycling of media). But never worried about glass in the oil passages, soda washes right out easy. Honestly I think the owners were not the most open minded and liked to do things the same way and made me do things that were harder and took longer than necessary. Oh well. If I ever end up in Colorado, I'll send my resume since you guys seem cool!
I use pakes machine shop in janesville and I'm about to clean my 408 ls block now that it's warm out, im not sure what they do for cleaning but I've heard horror stories of other shops leaving shavings and stuff all throughout and in the threads for bolt holes and thought it would just be a good idea to get it out of the way.
@@badgerrun8771 i worked at pakes and they do a good job cleaning. final clean includes thread chasing and brushing out oil passages, and wiping bores with paper towels and atf to remove fine honing shavings.
You're completely right on the most shops comments, took my gt40p head to the machine shop to have them "cleaned", crack checked, resurfaced and valves done, when I got them back, the original rust and dirt was still on the heads and you could tell no amount of cleaning was done to the heads, so hopefully there was no cracks because not sure how they would've seen em
Tip. Diy ultimate clean. Coat ur stuff in chemdip brand. Let it sit overnight, then hit it with a tight hard spraying hose. Itll knock anything down to raw metal.
I use lemon juice and boil the parts for 10 to 15 minutes. I've only done small parts and carbs because I haven't found a source for bulk lemon juice yet. I live in Louisiana which means high humidity. The parts come out rust free and don't rust quickly after after rinsing with clean water and blow drying with compressed air.
Worked at a machine shop in the early 80s when I was 16. We had a caustic hot tank for steel and iron then ran it through the washer, I remember them coming out looking brand new.
If ya can't see it, ya can't fix it!😏 The time spent on cleaning and preparation before machining has probably saved your shop more than the equipment cost.🤔 I'm a HD mechanic(ret) and I would've told customers to use your shop based on what I've been seeing on UA-cam. It's an absolute delight watching you work 😀👍
I learned the painful way when chipping away old dry mortar from sandstone that it's still caustic dust. My hands became super dry and burning from it. Normal washing didn't help, just made it painful. I had to look up how to neutralize it. I had to dilute white vinegar so it didn't burn as much. Rub all affected areas for about a minute in sink then rinsed with normal tap water. Dried hands and arms very well then applied some antibiotic ointment to prevent infections. Next time I'll be using long sleeved chemical gloves that are up to the elbows. I used normal wrist length work gloves that caused dust to go through the fabric. Remember people to do research about the materials you work with, what PPE you need to wear, how to treat contact with skin, face, eyes, or inhaling fumes/dust. Remember safety is #1 priority of your life.
Worked for a larger engine rebuilder. We had two pretty big ovens. One for iron one for aluminum. Then aluminum went to a blast cabinet like that and iron went to a big shot blaster. One would do a block and one would do 6 heads. But I’m not aware of any washing done. I know on aluminum heads we just wire brush and use air on the passages.
And this is why you shouldn't be bitching and moaning about the price when you pick up you engine from the machine shop... well that and there is less and less GOOD Machine shops around nowadays that do it right since everyone complains about the cost and don't want to pony up for a better finished product. Good work my friend, I hope you can continue on for many, many years.
Years ago I had a Mazda 2.2L rebuilt. They glass bead the head only after installing the long bock. And initial break in I took a drive. Less than 20 miles it locked up. I pulled it and took it back to the builder. He pulled it apart and found the oil bypass was plugged with glass beads. I talked to the machine shop who did the head work. They told me "tough bananas.. indian were not paying for it" I never recommended them but a few years later the closed down... wonder why?.. Great job on cleaning up parts!
Hydro-blasting/Vapour-blasting.....like sandblasting but with water/glass bead and perfectly safe for alloy with a factory fresh finish. A bonus is there is no dust so no silica to breath in!
just saw this video for the first time , guy lifts the lid on the " BAKE OVEN " 1:58 minutes on video & what do I see in there , a WILLYS JEEP BLOCK in there !! I'LL EAT MY HAT IF IT AIN'T ONE !! worked on a ton of those over the years , have a 1948 cj2-a restored since 1995 !!
PowerPlus Cleaning Solutions in Anaheim sold us a Ultrasonic dip tank sized for engine blocks. it removes gaskets AND rust from Aluminum and steel engine parts very well. We run Soap for alum. and weak caustic for steel.
BTW I have seen tests of carbon cleaners that contain PEA for example that will do a good job of breaking up carbon deposits. Perhaps soak the valve passages in a cleaner like that first before even removing the valves to make the process easier and get a better final result. I think Nates Interactive Auto has done some vids on carbon cleaners.
to remove grease & carbon from cylinder heads soak them in Chem-Dip it only takes about 15-20mins You can put alum heads in Chem-Dip to . & to remove rust from water passages soak the heads in Water & CLR i like using Lime-A-Way Lime . Calcium . Rust Thick Gel Formula Toilet Bowl Cleaner You can get at Dollar General for $1 Bottle One 16Oz bottle to 2 gallon water works Great .
The Chem-Dip works great, until it gets dirty. Then you have a dirty, nasty toxic mess to dispose of. If you do it the right way it costs an arm and a leg. If you just dump it down the drain then SHAME ON YOU.
Have you ever thought about adding an Ospho dip after cleaning for cast iron and iron parts? It transforms the outer layer of iron into a rust free layer while also changing the magnetic properties of the iron to make magnetic powder inspections more sensitive.
Ive always done/built my own engines, but only small 4 pot, or 2 pot engines, and working with clean parts is so much nicer, First i pressure clean the engine outside, then use a normal household dishwasher in my Kitchen, as a cleaner for pretty well everything else (Finish tablets are the best) also the kitchen oven is good for drying parts out, i would like to add, that any of the cleaning process will be done when my wife is out, as she would have a fit if she knew!! lol
I knew nothing about this process, but was intrigued by your title. This video is great! It's well made, well narrated, and well photographed. Thanks! I now know a lot about something I only knew in passing. I've worked on cars for years, but never to that level of teardown/rebuild.
I gotta say. Compared to the other machine shop video I watched before this one. The efforts they were taking To clean And protect from corrosion after cleaning. Make this a Solid 70% out of 100
@@JamesDoylesGarage The question seems so obvious.I'm not sure I understand. It would be easier to just Direct you to Paul machine on U-tube and let you see how I came to this Perspective. There are others as well, but that would be a good place to start. ✌️
I clean all my stuff at home and I actually get everything spotless. but I also use paint removers for old paint along with glass beading and electrolysis tank for complete rust removal. Have tried soda blasting on heads so that glass bead issues are non existent but soda blasting takes a lot more time. Heads up your video showed galley plugs in the heads you bead blasted and spray cleaned.. hence those heads will still have some glass beads in them when you build them and install them.
A large ultrasonic tub with degreaser might work well. Also, there is a new technology I have seen using dry ice blasting instead of glass beads. It’s not as abrasive as glass, but likely cleans better because the thermal shock of the dry ice causes dirt to contract and flake off. The big advantage is no need for follow up cleaning, because there are no glass beads to get stuck! The dry ice just evaporates!
I like seeing you clean out all the bolts are bead blasting and washing! I work with a machine shop the glass blasted heads and left the beads in the thread holes. Major pain for the mechanic!
🤩 oooh the memories. I worked in a production remanufacturing facility/ machine shop in the early 90's. I was a builder and have easily 500+ assembled Engines under my belt. Plus I was on the Sunnen Con Rod reconditioning machine 😍. It was no doubt one of the most enjoyable occupations I've ever had. Thanks and keep up with your quality product. Greed and sloppy work Kills machine shops. Cheers 🍻,, G, in beautiful Boulder City Nv. USA 🇺🇸. Never Forget 🇺🇲.
O always liked machine shop, unfortunately when I went to the Mechanic school in Brazil they didn’t had anymore room for machine course so I went to Mechanic classe. Well 20 years passed and still love machine shop environment, now I have my mechanic shop in Massachusetts, really love this field. Nice shop mate, stay busy!
Thank you so much for such an in debt video of your process man, y'all will reach the stars! I would NOT hesitate to send you my engines. Bravo to you and Mr. Jim.
I absolutely love and respect a transparent operation. You can keep your special sauce and secretes little things to make it all work private I respect that its a business after all, But letting a customer see how it works on video gives them a satisfaction knowing they came to the right place and trust is at a high level. Great work guys. If you was near I would of definitely came over.
My dad had an airplane propeller business at the Weld County Airport for many years and I grew up washing parts and standing behind that exact same blast cabinet for hours on end. I sort of miss it now, actually.
great vid thanks... I just did 1nzfe head/ removal due to blown head gasket.. at 355k miles , 2000 Toyota Echo, the carbon was mega caked! resembled it and all was well for a couple of days, then the brand new aftermarket junk fan relay sensor went bad , overheated again AND I discovered the radiator cap wasnt allowing the antifreeze to be transferred from the reservoir because it was old and part of it broke off and fell in the radiator.. well.. they say we learn most from our failures and I here to testify :D
Guys might consider adding a sliding carousel table for the glass bead blaster. It would be easier on body and more efficient in time saving. Just something I noticed. Ill add, Great channel you guys.
When trying to clean stubborn baked on grease and oil from metal parts or when doing control arms or such for restoration on trucks or cars, or any type of metal, I use the poor man's way. I get a large steel barrel, I put the part or parts what needs to be cleaned inside the barrel, fill it with water submerging the part, I add dish soap and powder soap clothes detergent and light a fire under it, I let it boil and when I think it's nice and clean I remove them from inside the barrel and power wash them. All clean!!!
sure enough @ 6:53 minutes in the video , the guy pulls the " jeep block " out of the glass bead cabinet , ( AND CALLS IT AS MUCH ) good , I wasn't looking forward to eating my " HAT " !!!!!! my 1948 cj2- a Willys " ENGINE " is getting a little tired , I KNOW WERE TO SEND THE PARTS NOW !!! TRUCK FREIGHT palletized out & back , ( MONEY WELL SPENT ) !! and I promise to clean them up before you get it !!! makes life a little easier for you guys , instead of 1 big "BLOB OF GREASE" !
If you baked them again, after the wash, then you would ensure all the passages were dry, leaving no rust in the passages, we do the double bake procedure but we are working with only racing blocks.
Hey man try mira-chem in your wash cabinet. It's a non toxic & non caustic mixed thats 60% distilled water 💧. We used to use the exact same solution as you in our ship. We switched and it's amazing but it doesn't last as long but it definitely works better. Parts come out completely clean but still has rust tho.
We have one extra large spray cabinet (2000 litre tank) running Oakite TurboDet that can take anything, and a HYUGE caustic hot tank (5000 litres I think) with an agitator that we submerse large ferrous parts in. Both do a pretty good job of melting off grease/oil, dirt, and paint. The hot tank solution (don't know the name) will take even rust and scale off, which is nice. Drop the blocks in overnight, agitate for an hour to remove air bubbles, and let 'er soak. What we DO NOT have is an oven or a steelabrator.... Dang I wish we had those. It would make life so much easier. How long does the oven burn take?
You have much better equipment than the a-holes I used to work for has. It would take an hour to bead blast one head, a good 45 minutes to blast an intake. He didn't have a baking cabinet, that's a sweet machine, along with the steel shoot rotisserie.
1 You REALLY, REALLY need to wear a respirator when "Bead" blasting. Look up Silicosis as a reference. 2 The VaporHone (wet sandblasting) is Da-Bomb for cleaning/restoring aluminum parts. Especially old motorcycle-small engine parts. They look better than new when done.
Can the rubbery deposit of ( stop leak ) be removed from an engine block and heads. This stuff is like .0625 thick. My engine is a 454, was told from the mid 70s. With old cast heads.
great video! that 441 head really needed exhaust seats in the steelalator! we used a large oven then steam gennied them. we would put them in a steelalator occasionally. hot tanks here are no longer around us.. we used to use a cold soak on aluminum heads. Saftey kleen carb cleaner basically, it smelled sooo bad. it burned your skin and one drop on you you smelled it all day.lol ahhh the old days.
A spray cabinet isn't enough to get foreign material out of oil galleries or coolant jackets, it is up to the engine builder to ensure cleanliness after the component has been to the machime shop. Soapy water and tube brushes for oil galleries at a minimum and thorough cleaning of coolant jackets are required for any engine builder, I have seen so many failures caused by cleaning material stuck in oil galleries and repeat water pump replacements because of shit left in the coolant jacket. The way to go these days is using an ultrasonic cleaner with a mildly caustic or non caustic solution and then a liberal flushing.
Before I became a machinist I would send my aluminum heads off to this retired Machinist he did excellent work I used to do a lot of Fiat stuff he would put the heads in carburetor cleaner and they would come out looking like their brand new
I was wondering why the aluminum heads can’t be soda or walnut shell blasted. It may be a future opportunity to get better cleaning done with less abrasive materials. Even dry ice blasting has come a long way. The time and effort put into the cleaning practices goes a long way with showing the care put into the parts.
Hi I have 1999 magnum 5.9 with the “ keg intake “ I’m in New Jersey , was quoted 400$ to clean ... after reading and watch hot rod televison , hot rod magazine car craft , spike tv, discovery , also the every show they say bring it down to the local machine shop it will cost 50-100$ and they all get “ friend prices “ And then there’s the trust part ....needless to say I can’t afford to have it cleaned , I’m doing th Eli take my self because I can’t lay 500$ to have it installed ... it’s cool your showing this ..it was informative I still can’t figure the price I got quoted . I was told aluminum’s that is why , as you mentioned it needs different chems ...
Looks like you guys do good work... the way you guys clean your parts is pretty much the same way I used to do it except for glass beading the cast Iron blocks, if they were bad they would get steel beaded but most of the time our jet spray would get the job done.
I have had several blocks prepped by a few different machine shops here in Texas, and NONE have been cleaned this well by a long shot!! You do quality work and that’s rare today. My hats off to you sir!!
We use a soda blaster for cleaning the carbon out of aluminum heads. It’s not nearly as abrasive as glass bead which makes it great for aluminum. Soda also dissolves which gives you the piece of mind that no abrasive is left anywhere in the head
My dentist just switched to a soda blaster for polishing teeth. My head isn't aluminum but it's definitely clean!
Lol! My dentist got one of those the last time I saw him. Dang soda left my lips dry!
@@grizzomble hopefully they sprung for something better than harbor freight offers
What about co2 blaster?
I use walnut shells for blasting carbon on intake valves.
Came from shorts. Like the longer videos so much more. You’re professionalism is admirable
Agreed
Same
Same here. These are the best, most informative videos that I have seen on UA-cam.
I'm not saying we are better, I'm giving you the proof that we are better ;) In my opinion, this is one of the best forms of advertising. You can yell slogans all day, but if your customers know that you are doing good work, this is the best advertisement you can get.
When I worked at the machine shop,we baked blocks and iron heads in a giant oven, usually 500 degrees for 4 hours,then it would go into the shot peen machine ,then the tumbler. The best method by far for steel and iron is immersion in a acid tank
I could watch this all day!.
I did
Me too and I used to make a living doing it. Miss building motors..
Fair shop , working on a shop like that now . But not as far along .
At time about 9:00 seeing the cleaning and also seeing you have removed the frost plugs before cleaning . I remember long ago handing over my old 396 Chevy block to an engine shop , they also popped out the frost plugs for cleaning . It then went out to an industrial ultra sonic cleaning shop . The engine block was so slopped with old grease the shop put it in right side up then upside down then laying on its back . Each was about a ten or twelve minute cycle . After which running clear water through almost all of the passage ways then placing it into some kind of a small drying room . Good video ; removing the frost plugs is such a good idea .
Quality and a shit load of old school pride on what you do be nice if there were more people like you who do things right 👍👏
This is the machine shop that I have been looking for!!! They take pride in their work!!!
Yes, but they do not take new clients.
Other processes to consider include vapor (slurry) blasting, dry ice blasting, laser cleaning, and ultrasonic cleaning. Of these, vapor blasting is probably the most cost effective. Soda blasting is also effective against carbon deposits on aluminum, and very, very gentle on fine casting details.
Send him a video - they’re building a new shop now so maybe it could be an option for them. Vapor blasting sounds interesting
we have used dry ice blasting on are National machinery cold heading machines in Melbourne works great no trapped glass bead or sand blasting dust , just some water can you use a vapor degreaser like trichlorethylene is this still legal in the USA
That dry ice blasting works amazing we used it to clean our machine at a plastic pellet company i worked for. They didn’t keep it though but it did work great.
Always find myself watching these. When you said you were in CO I got curious and you’re 20 mins from where I live! Love it man, keep it up!
Y’all and precision transmission in Texas are by far the best shops I have seen! Y’all take pride in your work, attention to detail is there and the knowledge is well used in both shops!
Excellent video, thanks,
I was a machinist for a large company that made turbofan engines. Back in the day before anyone knew better, if you were rebuilding an engine, you hauled your iron into the shop at night and we had giant heated trichloroethylene tanks with sprayers. In an hour you had the cleanest blocks and heads you've ever seen going back out to your truck.
We now know that trichlor is a cancer causing substance, but damn did it clean!
At Cummins, we acid dipped blocks,"cold baths" for aluminium, ultra sonic for fuel parts and bead blasting for manifolds, etc.
I worked in a shop in Wisconsin where cleaning was a full time job for one person (myself for a while) We had a large oven and steel shot blaster, large soda blasting cabinet, bead blaster, larger sonic tank that used some kind of mild solvent, and a large and small washer. We ran anything we could bake and steel bast (some iron parts we didn't bake such as Mack diesel heads they would sometimes fail pressure test after baking or certain Pontiac heads had small oil passages that were hard to clean out. Also diesel heads with oil and fuel passages we would bake and wire wheel or soda. So we might sonic and soda or bake and soda), aluminum we sonic tanked then soda blasted. Soda is a pain because it takes longer and is expensive because it only goes through once(no recycling of media). But never worried about glass in the oil passages, soda washes right out easy. Honestly I think the owners were not the most open minded and liked to do things the same way and made me do things that were harder and took longer than necessary. Oh well. If I ever end up in Colorado, I'll send my resume since you guys seem cool!
At What shop did work in Wisconsin ?
I use pakes machine shop in janesville and I'm about to clean my 408 ls block now that it's warm out, im not sure what they do for cleaning but I've heard horror stories of other shops leaving shavings and stuff all throughout and in the threads for bolt holes and thought it would just be a good idea to get it out of the way.
@@badgerrun8771 i worked at pakes and they do a good job cleaning. final clean includes thread chasing and brushing out oil passages, and wiping bores with paper towels and atf to remove fine honing shavings.
I can't imagine any other video could explain this better. Really well done.
Your preparation prior to even machining the heads or blocks is phenomenal! Great Video and great attention to Detail.
You're completely right on the most shops comments, took my gt40p head to the machine shop to have them "cleaned", crack checked, resurfaced and valves done, when I got them back, the original rust and dirt was still on the heads and you could tell no amount of cleaning was done to the heads, so hopefully there was no cracks because not sure how they would've seen em
Tip. Diy ultimate clean. Coat ur stuff in chemdip brand. Let it sit overnight, then hit it with a tight hard spraying hose. Itll knock anything down to raw metal.
Back in the day machine shops used to all clean like this. Now I can't find anyone that comes close
I use lemon juice and boil the parts for 10 to 15 minutes. I've only done small parts and carbs because I haven't found a source for bulk lemon juice yet. I live in Louisiana which means high humidity. The parts come out rust free and don't rust quickly after after rinsing with clean water and blow drying with compressed air.
Your cleaning cabinets are a lot more space effective than a hot tank. Love it!
getting to work with your dad. that's unbeatable.
I was taught years ago when you rebuild an engine that you can NOT be TOO CLEAN I like your work
I'm so glad you showed us this process. Your engines always look so good.
Worked at a machine shop in the early 80s when I was 16. We had a caustic hot tank for steel and iron then ran it through the washer, I remember them coming out looking brand new.
Good old fashioned hot tank worked best but the EPA kinda but a lot of that on the no-no list.
If ya can't see it, ya can't fix it!😏
The time spent on cleaning and preparation before machining has probably saved your shop more than the equipment cost.🤔
I'm a HD mechanic(ret) and I would've told customers to use your shop based on what I've been seeing on UA-cam.
It's an absolute delight watching you work 😀👍
I learned the painful way when chipping away old dry mortar from sandstone that it's still caustic dust. My hands became super dry and burning from it. Normal washing didn't help, just made it painful. I had to look up how to neutralize it. I had to dilute white vinegar so it didn't burn as much. Rub all affected areas for about a minute in sink then rinsed with normal tap water. Dried hands and arms very well then applied some antibiotic ointment to prevent infections. Next time I'll be using long sleeved chemical gloves that are up to the elbows. I used normal wrist length work gloves that caused dust to go through the fabric. Remember people to do research about the materials you work with, what PPE you need to wear, how to treat contact with skin, face, eyes, or inhaling fumes/dust. Remember safety is #1 priority of your life.
Idc i would most def charge a little extra bc im going the extra mile to make sure that your engine is thoroughly clean
Worked for a larger engine rebuilder. We had two pretty big ovens. One for iron one for aluminum. Then aluminum went to a blast cabinet like that and iron went to a big shot blaster. One would do a block and one would do 6 heads. But I’m not aware of any washing done. I know on aluminum heads we just wire brush and use air on the passages.
And this is why you shouldn't be bitching and moaning about the price when you pick up you engine from the machine shop... well that and there is less and less GOOD Machine shops around nowadays that do it right since everyone complains about the cost and don't want to pony up for a better finished product.
Good work my friend, I hope you can continue on for many, many years.
Years ago I had a Mazda 2.2L rebuilt. They glass bead the head only after installing the long bock. And initial break in I took a drive. Less than 20 miles it locked up. I pulled it and took it back to the builder. He pulled it apart and found the oil bypass was plugged with glass beads. I talked to the machine shop who did the head work. They told me "tough bananas.. indian were not paying for it" I never recommended them but a few years later the closed down... wonder why?.. Great job on cleaning up parts!
Hydro-blasting/Vapour-blasting.....like sandblasting but with water/glass bead and perfectly safe for alloy with a factory fresh finish. A bonus is there is no dust so no silica to breath in!
just saw this video for the first time , guy lifts the lid on the " BAKE OVEN " 1:58 minutes on video
& what do I see in there , a WILLYS JEEP BLOCK in there !! I'LL EAT MY HAT IF IT AIN'T ONE !!
worked on a ton of those over the years , have a 1948 cj2-a restored since 1995 !!
PowerPlus Cleaning Solutions in Anaheim sold us a Ultrasonic dip tank sized for engine blocks. it removes gaskets AND rust from Aluminum and steel engine parts very well. We run Soap for alum. and weak caustic for steel.
I would sure like to see one in action. Saw them at PRI show but a trade show demonstration is vastly different than real life, at least in my mind:
It's really nice to see you guys's machine shop is so clean when I was growing up were so dirty
BTW I have seen tests of carbon cleaners that contain PEA for example that will do a good job of breaking up carbon deposits. Perhaps soak the valve passages in a cleaner like that first before even removing the valves to make the process easier and get a better final result. I think Nates Interactive Auto has done some vids on carbon cleaners.
A sandblasting cabinet was the best investment I made.
You start cleaning random stuff haa
Same. The only think I think I would enjoy more would be a hot tank parts washer
OK Nerd cleaning is fun now? Yes! This was awesome. Tons of great info. Really good video.
One question, what’s the non corrosion products do you use on the aluminum cabinet?
For the aluminum nothing beats vapor blasting or vapor honing. Cleans everything and leaves the surface satiny smooth.
As a guy from Colorado, I love that I love this channel and that you guys are in Colorado as well
to remove grease & carbon from cylinder heads soak them in Chem-Dip it only takes about 15-20mins You can put alum heads in Chem-Dip to . & to remove rust from water passages soak the heads in Water & CLR i like using Lime-A-Way Lime . Calcium . Rust Thick Gel Formula Toilet Bowl Cleaner You can get at Dollar General for $1 Bottle One 16Oz bottle to 2 gallon water works Great .
The Chem-Dip works great, until it gets dirty. Then you have a dirty, nasty toxic mess to dispose of. If you do it the right way it costs an arm and a leg. If you just dump it down the drain then SHAME ON YOU.
i used to work at a machine shop and this makes me miss it so much
Have you ever thought about adding an Ospho dip after cleaning for cast iron and iron parts? It transforms the outer layer of iron into a rust free layer while also changing the magnetic properties of the iron to make magnetic powder inspections more sensitive.
Quality like this is such a rare fading reality in this nation. I think I found a place worth shipping things to so it is done properly.
Ive always done/built my own engines, but only small 4 pot, or 2 pot engines, and working with clean parts is so much nicer, First i pressure clean the engine outside, then use a normal household dishwasher in my Kitchen, as a cleaner for pretty well everything else (Finish tablets are the best) also the kitchen oven is good for drying parts out, i would like to add, that any of the cleaning process will be done when my wife is out, as she would have a fit if she knew!! lol
I wish the UK had somewhere with this much care and attention to detail..
I would look into a ultra sonic cleaner and wet slurry blasting.
A cc tip I learned is distilled water will remove rust and scale
I knew nothing about this process, but was intrigued by your title. This video is great! It's well made, well narrated, and well photographed. Thanks! I now know a lot about something I only knew in passing. I've worked on cars for years, but never to that level of teardown/rebuild.
A machine shop doing it correct can't beat that.. I have used a soda blast material it's good for grease oil not leaving residue
I gotta say. Compared to the other machine shop video I watched before this one. The efforts they were taking To clean And protect from corrosion after cleaning. Make this a Solid 70% out of 100
Hi Kevin, where's the other 30% going to come from?
@@JamesDoylesGarage The question seems so obvious.I'm not sure I understand. It would be easier to just Direct you to Paul machine on U-tube and let you see how I came to this Perspective. There are others as well, but that would be a good place to start. ✌️
The machine I use bakes the engine then steel abrates it without ever having to remove it and it’s like a 90 year old machine but works like a dream
Oh god please get a video of that, that sounds AMAZING.
Love your shop. All the cleaning tools necessary. Would like to take all my engines by and have you clean them.i need a place like yours
I clean all my stuff at home and I actually get everything spotless. but I also use paint removers for old paint along with glass beading and electrolysis tank for complete rust removal. Have tried soda blasting on heads so that glass bead issues are non existent but soda blasting takes a lot more time. Heads up your video showed galley plugs in the heads you bead blasted and spray cleaned.. hence those heads will still have some glass beads in them when you build them and install them.
so interesting.i am a software developer, and i started to tinker a toyota, these videos inspire me.
Wish I had cleaning solutions like this, cleaning old gummy/greasy 2 stroke engine parts would be so much easier
A large ultrasonic tub with degreaser might work well. Also, there is a new technology I have seen using dry ice blasting instead of glass beads. It’s not as abrasive as glass, but likely cleans better because the thermal shock of the dry ice causes dirt to contract and flake off. The big advantage is no need for follow up cleaning, because there are no glass beads to get stuck! The dry ice just evaporates!
Do you have a video on how your father/family got into/started the automotive machining business?
I like seeing you clean out all the bolts are bead blasting and washing! I work with a machine shop the glass blasted heads and left the beads in the thread holes. Major pain for the mechanic!
Love the content and the details about cleaning...... are totally on point really appreciate this video man.
🤩 oooh the memories.
I worked in a production remanufacturing facility/ machine shop in the early 90's. I was a builder and have easily 500+ assembled Engines under my belt.
Plus I was on the Sunnen Con Rod reconditioning machine 😍. It was no doubt one of the most enjoyable occupations I've ever had. Thanks and keep up with your quality product. Greed and sloppy work Kills machine shops.
Cheers 🍻,, G, in beautiful Boulder City Nv. USA 🇺🇸.
Never Forget 🇺🇲.
O always liked machine shop, unfortunately when I went to the Mechanic school in Brazil they didn’t had anymore room for machine course so I went to Mechanic classe.
Well 20 years passed and still love machine shop environment, now I have my mechanic shop in Massachusetts, really love this field.
Nice shop mate, stay busy!
i like the baking it part , that step is new to me.
Thank you so much for such an in debt video of your process man, y'all will reach the stars! I would NOT hesitate to send you my engines. Bravo to you and Mr. Jim.
I absolutely love and respect a transparent operation. You can keep your special sauce and secretes little things to make it all work private I respect that its a business after all, But letting a customer see how it works on video gives them a satisfaction knowing they came to the right place and trust is at a high level. Great work guys. If you was near I would of definitely came over.
My dad had an airplane propeller business at the Weld County Airport for many years and I grew up washing parts and standing behind that exact same blast cabinet for hours on end. I sort of miss it now, actually.
great vid thanks... I just did 1nzfe head/ removal due to blown head gasket.. at 355k miles , 2000 Toyota Echo, the carbon was mega caked! resembled it and all was well for a couple of days, then the brand new aftermarket junk fan relay sensor went bad , overheated again AND I discovered the radiator cap wasnt allowing the antifreeze to be transferred from the reservoir because it was old and part of it broke off and fell in the radiator.. well.. they say we learn most from our failures and I here to testify :D
Guys might consider adding a sliding carousel table for the glass bead blaster. It would be easier on body and more efficient in time saving. Just something I noticed. Ill add, Great channel you guys.
Wow this machine shop is amazing! This shop is top notch
You're right most shops don't want to work that hard on cleaning
When trying to clean stubborn baked on grease and oil from metal parts or when doing control arms or such for restoration on trucks or cars, or any type of metal, I use the poor man's way. I get a large steel barrel, I put the part or parts what needs to be cleaned inside the barrel, fill it with water submerging the part, I add dish soap and powder soap clothes detergent and light a fire under it, I let it boil and when I think it's nice and clean I remove them from inside the barrel and power wash them. All clean!!!
sure enough @ 6:53 minutes in the video , the guy pulls the " jeep block " out of the glass bead cabinet , ( AND CALLS IT AS MUCH ) good , I wasn't looking forward to eating my " HAT " !!!!!!
my 1948 cj2- a Willys " ENGINE " is getting a little tired , I KNOW WERE TO SEND THE PARTS NOW !!! TRUCK FREIGHT palletized out & back , ( MONEY WELL SPENT ) !! and I promise to clean them up before you get it !!! makes life a little easier for you guys , instead of 1 big "BLOB OF GREASE" !
Always enjoy your machine shop videos! Keep them coming! Also glad to see there's some folks out there still doing this kind of work👍🏻
Great job on cleaning. I still wash over and over and use drill brushes to clean all the oil passages. It's never clean enough.
If you baked them again, after the wash, then you would ensure all the passages were dry, leaving no rust in the passages, we do the double bake procedure but we are working with only racing blocks.
For ending of cleaning that heads maybe is good enough to have big and strong ultrasonic bath.
Hey man try mira-chem in your wash cabinet. It's a non toxic & non caustic mixed thats 60% distilled water 💧. We used to use the exact same solution as you in our ship. We switched and it's amazing but it doesn't last as long but it definitely works better. Parts come out completely clean but still has rust tho.
We have one extra large spray cabinet (2000 litre tank) running Oakite TurboDet that can take anything, and a HYUGE caustic hot tank (5000 litres I think) with an agitator that we submerse large ferrous parts in. Both do a pretty good job of melting off grease/oil, dirt, and paint. The hot tank solution (don't know the name) will take even rust and scale off, which is nice. Drop the blocks in overnight, agitate for an hour to remove air bubbles, and let 'er soak.
What we DO NOT have is an oven or a steelabrator.... Dang I wish we had those. It would make life so much easier. How long does the oven burn take?
You have much better equipment than the a-holes I used to work for has. It would take an hour to bead blast one head, a good 45 minutes to blast an intake. He didn't have a baking cabinet, that's a sweet machine, along with the steel shoot rotisserie.
This would be one of the most satisfying jobs ever
1 You REALLY, REALLY need to wear a respirator when "Bead" blasting. Look up Silicosis as a reference.
2 The VaporHone (wet sandblasting) is Da-Bomb for cleaning/restoring aluminum parts.
Especially old motorcycle-small engine parts. They look better than new when done.
Can the rubbery deposit of ( stop leak ) be removed from an engine block and heads. This stuff is like .0625 thick. My engine is a 454, was told from the mid 70s. With old cast heads.
You should try soda blasting.
Have you ever figured out the cost of cleaning an engine ie material and electric costs etc really a fascinating process and done right 💪
You ever think about asking customers to bring their rides by for an interview and start up? 😎👍
great video! that 441 head really needed exhaust seats in the steelalator! we used a large oven then steam gennied them. we would put them in a steelalator occasionally. hot tanks here are no longer around us.. we used to use a cold soak on aluminum heads. Saftey kleen carb cleaner basically, it smelled sooo bad. it burned your skin and one drop on you you smelled it all day.lol ahhh the old days.
This was really eye opening, thanks mate
A spray cabinet isn't enough to get foreign material out of oil galleries or coolant jackets, it is up to the engine builder to ensure cleanliness after the component has been to the machime shop. Soapy water and tube brushes for oil galleries at a minimum and thorough cleaning of coolant jackets are required for any engine builder, I have seen so many failures caused by cleaning material stuck in oil galleries and repeat water pump replacements because of shit left in the coolant jacket. The way to go these days is using an ultrasonic cleaner with a mildly caustic or non caustic solution and then a liberal flushing.
Repeat, ultrasonic cleaner, causic or non caustic is the standard these days.
A spray wash cabinet that isn’t HOT enough blah blah
It's crazy watching this. This is almost the exact same process I do at the shop I work at.
Wow didn't know this thing exists. We used to clean the blocks with diesel it is damn hard, your mechinnery work wonders.
Very in depth and informational video. Thanks
Before I became a machinist I would send my aluminum heads off to this retired Machinist he did excellent work I used to do a lot of Fiat stuff he would put the heads in carburetor cleaner and they would come out looking like their brand new
I was wondering why the aluminum heads can’t be soda or walnut shell blasted. It may be a future opportunity to get better cleaning done with less abrasive materials. Even dry ice blasting has come a long way.
The time and effort put into the cleaning practices goes a long way with showing the care put into the parts.
Really through tour. Thank you
We have a bead blasting cabinet at work. I have had many home jobs in that thing. It's ideal for a car guy.
Should look into vapor blasting. Better than dry soda blasting as it leaves a nice satin finish vs a dull finish to the aluminum.
Hi I have 1999 magnum 5.9 with the “ keg intake “ I’m in New Jersey , was quoted 400$ to clean ... after reading and watch hot rod televison , hot rod magazine car craft , spike tv, discovery , also the every show they say bring it down to the local machine shop it will cost 50-100$ and they all get “ friend prices “ And then there’s the trust part ....needless to say I can’t afford to have it cleaned , I’m doing th Eli take my self because I can’t lay 500$ to have it installed ... it’s cool your showing this ..it was informative I still can’t figure the price I got quoted . I was told aluminum’s that is why , as you mentioned it needs different chems ...
Looks like you guys do good work... the way you guys clean your parts is pretty much the same way I used to do it except for glass beading the cast Iron blocks, if they were bad they would get steel beaded but most of the time our jet spray would get the job done.
6:16 wow looks awesome