It May NEVER Run Again! Is Their Ferguson TO-30 Tractor A LOST CAUSE?
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- Опубліковано 18 тра 2024
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This Z129 Continental engine out of an early 1950's Ferguson TO-30 tractor has seen better days... Our customer asked us to investigate the cause of a poor running engine with coolant in the oil. Here is what we found!
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It's a barb knot from old barbwire fence wire
Just as an FYI, your website expired.
You may be able to find parts at Fitts tractor in Cascade Virginia
I restored one those old tractors for a Family friend that pulled Parade Floats with it . Block was cracked identical to this one .
We acid dipped the block , installed the liners , assembled the engine . Then we poured low viscosity epoxy in the block and pressurized it into the cracks. That was 25 years ago .That tractor had 300 hrs on it when i saw it in 2023, when it was pulling the old gentleman's casket, in his funeral procession .
His son , said they used the tractor regularly on the farm , for light duty tasks , and never has leaked.
Epoxy will probably outlast the rest of the tractor.
Now that's an idea! Not necessarily worthy of any sort of warranty. Do you recall what low viscosity epoxy you used?
there used to be a shop in these parts that repaired old tractor engine blocks( worked fine on brothers super a)
@@billvandorn5332I can't speak for what the other guy used but there is a UA-cam channel called build it yourself where they used some epoxy to seal up water jackets on some heads they made that would probably be appropriate.
I am of the mind that the flywheel ring gear was repaired with everything together through the starter hole rather than going through all the effort of splitting the tractor. A true farm repair.
It is welded from opposite of the stator
Bush fix for the win!!
She was farmered once or twice 😂
It's welded so the starter doesn't push it out, so i'd suppose someone took the time to split it and then weld it like shit, which is maybe worse
You guys need to get the 3/8 Dewalt impact and ratchet!
My father in law had a two cylinder John Deere M that he tended his garden with for years. He pulled a hay wagon at my wedding with the bridal party on it and it barely made it. He always said it was worn out and after some family restructuring, it ended up sitting in my back yard for 6-7 years. He finally decided to sell it and asked me to try to start it. After a new battery and a carb rebuild, it ran like it did before. I decided to pull the valve cover to check for oiling and adjust the valves. Something didn’t look right so I investigated further and found a bent push rod with considerable wear at the bend. I straightened it out, adjusted the lash and she fired up and ran like a champ. Poor thing limped on one cylinder for 15 years.
That bolt in the water neck is actually stock! Mine had one until I installed a water temp gauge in 2000. Water temp gauge was an optional add for the Ferguson TO-30's. Even had to pop out the steel cut-out plate in the "dash" for the gauge. To a teenager at the time, giving my Ferggie an actual "optional" item nearly 50 years later was such a sense of accomplishment.
Good to see how a lifetime’s worth of experience factors into the quality of work done by a mechanic. Your son is the lucky beneficiary of all of your hard work in more ways than one. Thanks for documenting this basic engine teardown and diagnosis.
Thank you for this content. We are all aware that craftsmen like you are not easy to find nowadays. Your customers are lucky to have you!
As my grandpa used to like to say, "Poor People Have Poor Ways". That saying is proven true when this engine is being torn down. My brother in law who was a young farmer in the early 50's told how he sometimes wasn't sure if he had drained the water out of the tractor and after he was already in bed, he would have to get up and get dressed and go out and make sure. A couple times it saved him from disaster. I think alcohol was used early on but it was never ideal.
Alcohol would evaporate under heat...
and most tractors had very low or no pressure radiator caps...
so after a day's tractor work more alcohol would have to be tipped in to make up for the losses..
Not only are the details of what they are doing and the discussions of what they see exceptional, the chemistry between Jim and Nicholas is fun to watch. Jim is so humble, yet his knowledge and experience are amazing while Nicholas is shaping up to be just like Dad. I never imagined I'd find the teardown of a 1950s tractor engine so interesting.
The "Wackie Weed" in the ditches is probably industrial grade hemp used to make rope. I grew up in North Central Indiana, and my grandfather grew it during the war years. It still can be seen popping up in corn fields.
electric watercress
I love a good engine autopsy. Especially a mystery engine that's been sitting. I hope you do more of these. It's was very enjoyable to watch. :)
The floating oil pickup was designed for constant oil collection when plowing on steep gradients, if the oil was low it would always pick oil up and not be drawing air.
The early antifreeze was alcohol. It slowly evaporated away with the heating cycles, so you had to add more alcohol as routine maintenance, especially in the winter.
The "permanent type antifreeze" , ethylene glycol ,was a vast improvement!
And alcohol would boil b4 water and boiling over was a problem
My father talked about draining the water from trucks in the late fall, then filling the rad with kerosene. It didn't overheat and never froze. Otherwise they had to let the big engines idle all winter. A lot of people in the late 50's didn't trust ethylene glycol and ran the alcohol all winter, then switched to water in the spring. There was a lot of rad flushing going on back then.
That Gerber Life ad took me for a loop, I thought that company didn't exist anymore😂
Some of my earliest memories were of seeing their TV ads
"You can start a Gerber Life plan for just Pennies a day!"😂😂
It amazing to see a father and son who can work together like this and enjoy each other's company. I wasn't lucky enough to experience that, but I aim to create that with my children. It's very inspiring.
Good luck with that. it is rare indeed.
Hi boys, have you ever made a video on the history of Jim, how it all came to be, from cleaning guy to a successful engine builder. Would make a terrific video, regards Jim
I used to smell things. One day I found concentrated ammonia and took a whiff.
I bought a steam cleaner a few years ago and loved it. I started cleaning EVERYTHING. One day I found an area of old cat pee...
Never made that mistake again...
I did the same thing with boiling ammonia in 8th grade. Over the years my smell has started to come back but it's still not what it should be
Lol been there
I found an old bottle in the basement ceiling of a old farmhouse. It was blue glass and had a picture of a horse on it. Can't remember what was written on it. I pulled the cork and took a whiff and my vision turned blue with purplish spots for a second. Good stuff!
@@Raise986 have you tried deodorant?
I don't think its cracked from heat. Two reasons. It's just not that hot at the bottom, and, when coolant is low that's the last place it disappears from. Not saying it never got hot, but farmers have a bad habit of doing bad things in a pinch, like pouring water in and forgetting at the end of season that their coolant had been compromised. Here in Michigan wintertime is an unforgiving enemy of engine blocks.
One of your best videos yet. Love the discussion back and forth. Really provides tons of information and give excellent insight as to what you guys are thinking and looking for as you conduct a forensic tear down of the engine.
Do a search for "cross bolting a cracked ferguson block" (there is some videos on youtube showing it), cross bolting was a very common fix for these engines (some will say they were cracked when new).
With the construction of the block, it wouldn't be surprising if it was cracked out of the factory. Having a two piece cast block with a press fit wet sleeve is just begging for problems.
@@GGigabiteM the lower sleeve fit is most definitely not a press fit. The upper fit is. And it isn't a '2 piece ' cast block, the seam was in the pattern.
I purchased a 1953 f-500 in 1973 with the 239 ohv. No .010 bearings available or gaskets for the heads. Turned bearings 180 and reused head gaskets but did find rings with cylinders at .004 taper . Farmer here, hauled farm equipment from Spokane to Seattle and sold in 1979 with over 10k miles on the truck. Farmers make do with what’s is at hand. Like your videos 😊
It is impressive to see an engine from the 50s with more rust than oil leakage on the outside. Just a heads up from someone that has been working on rusty sht for many decades. When using an impact to remove rusty nuts and they get stuck in the socket. Keep the socket on the gun but press the side of the socket against a solid, heavy object. Hold your other hand under the socket and run the gun. Unless the nut is smashed into the socket it will shoot out into your hand.
What a pity that you're not able to complete this rebuild. That year, thereabouts, but the English version with the Standard Vanguard engine was the first vehicle I learned to drive as about a 14 year old in Northern Rhodesia. I was at boarding school and a school friend invited me back to his parent's farm near Lusaka for an extended weekend when I couldn't go home. One short lesson on what to do and what not, and I spent almost every waking hour driving the wheels off that tractor. What fun. Learned all sorts of bad habits that bit me in the butt when it came time to get my drivers licence a few years later.
Looking forward to the next rescue. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🕊🇺🇦🕊🇺🇲🦃💩👆
p.s. in Africa, I don't recall anything like antifreeze in our engines until I purchased my first new car, a Fiat 125, which was delivered with antifreeze in the engine. However, we seldom got to freezing, let alone below, and I never purchased antifreeze until I came to Canada in 1979.
The family stories and banter is excellent.
You got to love those farmer repairs. I spent 15 years working in a Chrysler Plymouth Dodge dealer in a small farming community. Some of the vehicles that came in were cobbled up to the point that I had to repair the cobble job before I could diagnose the original problem.
I enjoy seeing the mechanical aspects of your videos but I cherish the interaction between father and son. May God bless y'all for many years to come.
Thanks for an excellent video that was informative and interesting and enjoyable.
I am new to your channel and this video is one of several of yours I have watched recently.
I am an 80 year old car enthusiast and the machine shop work was always my passion. In my younger years I went through a fair share of hot rods, so to speak, and what makes an engine tick. So I thought your channel would be most interesting and help me relive those hot rod engine days.
The old ford tractor engine you have taken apart in this video is most definitely interesting. Appreciate your voice over as to what you both see in the parts for wear and tear and the history behind them. Looking forward to your channel and reassembling this engine step by step.
Thanks for everything. You both take care and be safe.
The retired Air Force veteran.
Those crank shims are important. A friend of mine had a 259 Studebaker V8 "Professionally rebuilt" He put it back in the car and it would break a flex plate right quick! After a couple of times if changing that flex plate, he brought it to me. The only thing I knew to do was pull the engine and look it over. I discovered the crank had .200 - .250 end play! It turns out Studebaker had no thrust main bearing. You had to adjust the end play with shims, behind timing gear. Like this engine. Also there is also a hard metal piece that fits in there surface ground to precision, not just shims. He went back to the professional to recover the pieces, but he had already thrown them out! Be careful of some shops! You guys do a good job. Even the clean up guy!
Had a shop do my clutch that mechanical linkage: they put it together dry with no grease and threw out the weird washers they didn't understand. Went back for the missing parts and same. They said it was easy so the new guy did it.
Furnace brazing and enough time can fix almost anything, that block can be furnace brazed and have the crack fixed. ALSO if you put in new sleeves you can use epoxy on the bottom of block, like hardblock just epoxy instead. That will basically grout the sleeves in and seal it up. I have had to do this with rare euro stuff that's simply no supply.
Hardblock the bottp 1/2 " of the water jacket with new sleeves will probably fix it forever,, mind you you will never get those sleeves out again.
Thanks, Grandpa guy. I appreciate the looks into the past for the younger set. Things were done differently then. Money was tight. Parts weren't cheap. A lot of these tractors were re-ringed in chassis. Low compression, high clearances. Go to a heavier weight oil. Small farms with low prices for what you grew. My dad had a Farmall Super H overhauled and the guy talked him into high compression pistons for the gasoline tractor. The engine ran almost as well with the ignition switch turned off afterwards. We converted the tractor to Propane and it was fine.
Carbon ignition system.....one speck of glowing carbon in the cylinder is all it takes with gasoline/petrol
but propane is harder to ignite....and loves high compression....to compensate for lower calorific value of the fuel....
Love the ad "wouldn't that be nice". Cleaning grandpa stood his ground
I think you should make a "make it work" video. Make a spreder that opens up the cracks and cleen them well and put red high temp silicon in them, then bore a through hole in the middle of the crack and through bolt to hold it thight, then make a bigger to smaller key in the crank. I know about Toyota picup that drived for many years with crack in the head that had a filled up crack with red silicon that was put in the crack with rubber hammer. It never gave up. The red silicon can stand over 600°c
I personally love seeing the old stuff torn down. I learn so much about the old ways of doing stuff.
I knew a guy about 40 years ago to that rebuilt engines . A guy he knew brought his car in because the soft plugs blew out or worse .it was 40 years ago and I dont recall if he cracked the block . It had straight wster in it. He asked why he only had water in his car snd he was told " It's from the spring behind my house and it never freezes" . The mechanic wasnt a BSer and I know people that would probably do the same
It's nice to watch the two of you work together, as my father and I did in the late 60s and through the 70s! It's also refreshing to see the PROPER tip being used on the torch for heating... drives me crazy to see cutting tips being used where a rosebud is called for! LOL!
Wow! I am 66 years young and learn something new every episode! Great channel.
It's a pleasure to watch Jim. The wealth of knowledge from decades of experience. What too look for. Old tricks of the trade not taught today. The history of engines. These videos are so instructive and enjoyable to watch.
If tractor engines could talk they could tell you some stories ! Early "rebuilds" were so common. I've done my share but only if wear was minimal. Parts and kits are now very affordable to the restorers for old iron. I just did a IH F12 and F 20 Farmall engine. Amazing how easy and simple they are.
These engines were built to be stationary power sources, Ferguson and other tractor manufacturers adapted them to the tractors and used the block as part of the chassis. I think the strain of driving on rough terrain resulted in flexing and cracking the block. Continental later refused to sell parts for any engine used for tractor application.
Greetings from Germany: Always interesting to watch how to tear it down and see what's inside then the fixes and machining process. I rebuilt my VW air cooled engine that had sucked a valve. I followed the mail order book pretty much to the 'T' except for the crank line bore... I was trying to save money but at the end I sold the old bus before the leak got too bad for a reasonable price. (I did inform the buyer of the slight leak at the rear main.) After watching your UA-cam channel now for a while along with some others, I realized that there were a few steps I missed and or was not aware of. If I were to do it again, I would do my best to do it better. 😉
Like some of your viewers comment on agree. Experience over time is the best teacher. Keep up the Good work and looking forward to your next job.
Those bolts that come from the inside on the rear main are a joy. Man there were a ton of working words when I realized I had to pull the pan to get that retainer out.
I have a ‘53. It’s doing a great job holding the floor down. Went through the head and replaced a valve and very slightly bent pushrod. The engine ran perfect for 30 minutes then oil fouled every plug and puked out of the rear seal.
Like, I said. The cleaning grand pa, is the soul of this channel.
Love your guys videos and energy :) 😂 shame about the cracks as I wanted to see that block come out of the washer all shiny looking new!
Shame that is such a common problem on those old Ferguson tractors. Problem is that so many of them cracked blocks over the years. My dad had one that the block cracked on it and it was only about 10 years old when that happened. Being it was NW PA, you never run just water in them. So it cracked with coolant vs being straight water.
We'll see what happens but that would probably be the end of the road for that Ferguson for most folks.
You two guys are entertaining but most of all very informative and true professionals. I truly wish I had a machine shop of your caliber near me. Thanks for a great video machine head dude's
Oh Yeah, knurling pistons and guides, cutting O/S ring grooves, honing for O/S wrist pins. We did a lot to squeeze additional life out of worn out stuff! Not certain how long it lasted but...
I had a TO-20. Loved that tractor!!
Have you guys ever used locknstitch? Its a way to repair cast iron amd aliminum. Jay leno has used it several times to repair really old destroyed engines. Lock n stitch. You can fix that block. Its repairable.
He talked about it. This isn't a good candidate for it because of where the crack is. Water jacket cracks are better fixed with those.
I've dealt with several Ferguson Continental engines and the cracks at the bottom cylinder bore seem to be common, I also believe like you that this is the result of freezing. My own TO-30 had this problem and the machine shop used what they called racers epoxy in the bottom of thr coolant jacket. I have between 400-500 hours on that engine now with no overheating or coolant leaks. Enjoy your videos, keep them coming.
I enjoy these videos. Not a fan of BEING an engine mechanic, but can sit and watch others work on engines.
I like this format when you just work on an engine with minimal cuts, discussing things as you go.
I love your show,I was bought up on old tractors,worked for tractor companies in the 70,s ,we must remember those blocks were part of the chassis, if the machine took a thump on the front axle,,,who knows where the forces went,,just a thought from an old timer who used to own one.Cheers,your son is so fortunate to have your vast knowledge to draw on.
the machine shop i worked in in the 70's-90's we had that Perfect Circle Manulathe, all the different sizes of spacer. also had a piston knurlier and used a Van Norman Rotary Broach, mid 80's got Winona Van Norman seat and guide machine and Neway seat cutters, before that used a Sioux seat cutter for replacement seats and Sioux seat grinder and valve reface machine. really enjoyed working and running that shop.
Racers use engine block fillers to strengthen their blocks. Since the crack is at the bottom of the bore where there is less heat, after installing new sleeves, wouldn't it be possible to fill the bottom couple inches of the block with that compound to eliminate the leak? Coolant circulation at the bottom of a cylinder is not that critical.
I mean the cleaning guy had kind of a ring to it, the cleaning Grandpa that sounds more dignified, but I'm going to miss the cleaning guy because well cleaning guy just had such an authority. Can't stay a cleaning guy forever I guess, I really appreciate your guys's videos I've learned quite a bit from you. I apply it to all the classic cars I work on will every car even the brand new ones. It's rare to find a channel like you guys. This is why I'm thankful for your channel and the education that you have provided me, for free
I had an old FarmAll and it also had water in the crank but most came from sitting with the exhaust broke off and water filling up the cylinders.
Amazingly it all worked out.
You nailed the regroover. Been there and done that. Spot on. We did this in a barn and the parts were not available to the farm.
Great tear down boys with good commentary and analysis. I am continually amazed by frieze damage to engines, living in the sunshine of Queensland, Australia I am not familiar with it even though I run anti freeze fluids in all my engines to save on electrolysis. Can’t wait to see what the customer decides to do going forward, buy another block and youll need to be sure it’s not suffering the same or similar conditions. I think the short block would be the ideal way out. Thank you for posting
I have a Massey to35 myself. I love the little tractor. I bought it used in rough shape. It actually has green paint on it under the gray paint. Was told by Yesterday Tractor that it could have been a military unit.
Truly enjoyed the tear down video, very informative. Keep up the good work.
“Financialy secure” has a great ring to it. Along with sacrifices and going w/o in them younger years …… been there and done that; as many have !
Back in the Pleistocene, I owned a Ferguson TEA 20 kerosine model (motor based on the English Standard/Vanguard) I never had the luxury of a workshop, I did everything in the paddock including clutch replacement, rings and bearings and differential carrier bearings. I'd run a mile if faced with doing it again :-)
I've never seen one of those cylinder head stud pullers for an impact gun. I'm going to need to find myself one of those.
Me too!!
I have a TE-20 1952 with the Standard Motor company wet sleeve engine that has never been rebuilt or even had the head off. It still starts and runs but is a bit sick these days so I think it's untouched status may be about to end. It spent most of its life at an air strip mowing grass and towing planes and parked indoors.
Congratulations you two! The Cleaning Granda promotion is well deserved😂😂❤
Always educational and fun videos. Ya'll make a great team
Given that the engine is junk, it'd be a fun project to do the absolute minimum "shade tree" rebuild on the thing and see if it would run again. Maybe find some used oversized pistons, bore out the sleeves and polish up the crank and throw it back together. For the cracks, try some blue devil or epoxy and let it cure and see if it will hold pressure. Its clearly been cobbled together many times over the decades, it needs one final go.
Appreciate what You Two do. Keep ti going. Thanks.
I have a TO-30 that was rebuilt before I got it. The block was cracked and it had bolts across the block from one side to the other to hold the cracks closed. It does not leak.
The sound that he makes at 52:08 is so funny. Great video guys.
Always enjoy the tractor content !
Great video, despite the decision not to continue forth. I really liked the floating oil pick up with reasoning for it, and seeing your piston ring cutter and sleeve puller.
Great work team.
Never a good time when you tear into a project, then have to call the customer and say it's dickered beyond repair. Then you get to ask them "will that be cash or invoice?" before hanging up.
loved the banter between son and dad,great vid guys.
Shame about the block , I used a ring spacer 8 years ago on an in-place ring and bearing job on a Nissan patrol , brand new pistons but from memory we did it only to bring the top ring down more in the bore due to some damage at the top of the bore . I still see it driving around .
Ive restored several fergusons over the years. In definatley saving this one for future reference.
The cracks are fairly common, but that ring gear is a first for me 😆.
Thank you for this! I wish you were closer to the west coast, I would send you all kinds of business. CHEERS!
If I remember the floating oil pick up was to optimize the oil pick up in unlevel terrain. Getting back a lot of old memories from helping my uncle on his farm.
Great Work Guys!!
Even though it wasn’t a great end to this motor….thanks for taking us alongside….
Thanks Jim for the awesome history lesson, I've worked on a couple old ones but not that deep, what a great lesson. I hope you have a follow up video on the replacement.
These engine blocks had problems with cracking without freezing, many were replaced already under warranty and we have a -47 Ferguson TE (Tractor England) 20 (these had the Continental engine 1946-48 in Europe) and it has had engine replaced under warranty back in 1948/49 to a Standard Motor Company engine. Here in Sweden, I have seen several tractors with this engine, where they mounted a large bolt straight through the block to hold it together. Don't know if it's done as a preventative measure or if it's done as a repair. However, at least it has worked, as all the ones I have seen with the bolt through the block have worked. If I remember correctly it was a stud with nuts on each side of the block and large washers. Thanks for all the interesting videos you post 😊!
That piston ring re-groover is just one of many weird tools that came out over the last 100 years of IC engines. Another was in-vehicle crankshaft grinders. I think they were only for rod journals. We had such a machine in my high-school auto mechanic class. Even as a teen I was dubious of the value of the thing. No-one used it but it was there. Inventions with questionable necessity....like that piston ring-land tool. Funny, but neat to see what people were thinking as things evolved.
We’re learning about a lot of old engines on the channel. I like how on these old industrial engines, primitive features are mixed with advanced. For example, when did one-piece rear main seals become pretty much standard on car engines? On the other hand, this one requires that you mess around with all the shims to get end play tolerance.
SBC's didn't even get a one piece RMS until (86? 87?).
@@DrFiero
SBCs are steam engine technology....
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk no less advanced than their contemporaries.
@@88SC
It was a friendly sarcasm...
compared with today's iteration the 60's 70's and 80's SBC seemed to be a paragon of longevity....
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk I need to do a better job of reading the room. 🤔
Always interesting to watch you guys and learn a little about the things you work on and make good
Bummer on the cracks . It was interesting seeing the inspection process.
Another absolutely amazing teardown
Hey Junior, next time, use a putty knife or heavy scraper to pry the tag off. Less damage that way.
Hi Guys, Greetings from New Zealand. I own an Oliver HG, the tags are still on her, she is 1943 vintage with a Hercules IX - 3 - according to the engine block stampings. I'm currently looking at getting her running as soon as I finish the work on my Bristol 25 - with the Perkins 3.152, 3 cylinder diesel motor, - she runs very well, but does have blow-by. Loving your channel. Yep I did see the video of the Hercules, and re-sleeving the 3 Cylinder Perkins.
My Father fixed one like that, (late 90s) with heating the block over a grill, and V-Cut the cracks, and welded with nickel rod (stick welder) I honed the holes and put sleeves into it, and its still running today.
You guys are awesome!
Dad had a old forklift that had a 4-cylinder Continental engine in it. Low compression, always hard to start. Probably needed a complete engine rebuild. They are also used in just about every portable Lincoln welder out there. At least with the older ones.
CSI for engines, superb content👍
On the crank, could you machine the key wider, then put a wider key in, and machine the key to fit the gear? It's all money at this point, but if a person wanted to pay the extra, would it work? Kind of like cutting and brazing the block, it's a bunch of money. Eventually blocks and cranks will not be available, so repairs are going to be needed, even if they are ugly.
The comment about cross Bolts got me thinking. I believe way back when there was a couple of engines that people were doing this to and that one was one of them. Maybe one of the experts on these engines will comment and tell you how to spot face the sides and where and how many bolts to put in. If I recall correctly they were on either side of the center main. And between the cylinders
I had a Ford tractor come in for repair about 25 years ago that was leaking coolant internally from a crack in the block. I drained the coolant, pulled the front half of the tractor off for better access and to get the radiator out of the way. Then I flushed and cleaned the block several times. After that I bypassed the radiator and ran it with straight water until I got the engine good and hot. Then I drained the water, pulled the thermostat, and poured a bottle of liquid glass into it. I do not remember if I had to add water with it or not but I pressurized the system with 5psi of air for 15 minutes then I let it set with no pressure on it for about an hour before I drained everything out. Once I had everything drained out I let it set overnight and reassembled everything the next day. I ran it around the farm bush hogging all week and never lost any coolant. So I told the customer to run it and keep an eye on it. I figured it would at least get him through hay season and we could fix it right later. I heard last year that they never did anything else to it and they are still using it regularly.
Enjoyed watching the disassembly of the Z 129 engine. I have one at a shop to get line bored for cam bearing. Waiting to see if they can actually do it. The other big issue to day is finding bearings for these engines includind Z 120. Z129 and Z134. Ferguson expert says you can use center thrust bearing for Z134 in the Z129. Front thrust bearing may be extremely difficult to find. The valve caps are avaiable for xalve stems. Pay attention to the cam gear and crankshaft gear they may be oversized or undersized and should be marked.
Enjoyed watching.
In the process of doing the z129 on my 52 ferguson right now... thanks for the video... what happened with mine was the head gasket blew and the fluid leaked into the cylinder and hydrolocked the valves and bent the pushrods... mines got a bit more of an "S" shape to the pushtod.
Braze up was where I was thinking, but its a $2000, maybe 3k in perfect trim and paint tractor. basically the same thing as a ford 8n, not a ton of room unless its a sentimental thing.
Those ring groove spacers are still valuable. People use them in OEM pistons so they can use modern narrow steel rings.
That old ring groove tool might have gone along with a piston knurling tool.
I actually used ring spacers that came in a ring set, Did not like them but the engine lived. Piston knurling,, about 45 years ago my father had that done for some pistons in an Allis Chalmers TL14D engine. He got 2 or 3 years from it but then it was stuffed. And fitted witha 4 cyl Perkins.
@@ldnwholesale8552 Well, such things were never made for long lasting repairs. It was to get things going temporarily on a budget. Get the engine going long enough to sell it.