I’ve don’t this twice on two Kias, both lasted over 2 years now & are still going strong, Just change the oil & filter every 1000 miles for the first 5000 miles & also stick a powerful magnet on the bottom of the oil pan to trap any floating metal that’s inside the engine passages, that way it doesn’t cause further damage, Sand the crank from 430 grit all the way up to 2500 grit, Take a while & is exhausting but it is very possible
Of course the only car I ever spun a bearing on, I have to remove the rear main seal housing, which means tranny gotta come off. lol. Im glad it went good brother!
Thats neat you fixed that. Even I failed at this once on a Honda. But recently I've learned so much and how I did it wrong back then on the Civic. I sold the car the guy that bought it ran a red light in it a week later so I know he fixed it quick. He knew. I also misprinted my phone number when he pulled in he told me my number isn't right and that he like a bicycle lock he figured it out after a day he said all day lol. Wow. My point today was that after seeing this you could have re centered the same bearing back in place after you smoothed the crank . Meaning you didn't need a new one . If it was damaged then yeah,then guage and get one. But thats nest you did this I slipped three of my cars and sold them over nothing. It the bearing was just slipped and came loose just needed placed back then oil.. but no0 sold the whole car four times over sometimes simple odd stuff . My neon engine will need a bearing one day and I'm not throwing it out. Sorry. Il try what you did plus..
Brown 3M scotch pad cut to side of journal use wd-40 or Gasoline as cutting lube. If you must do this, count how many swipes going back n forth treating like sanding copper pipe for soldering. Remember 33* 3 points of sanding. Count 10, go 33* count 10 go 33* . Repeat so to keep journal OD somewhat consistent. Enjoy.
This video is super inspiring even tho I know sh$t about engines but was seeing if my rod bearing on my 250k sierra could be repaired instead of replaced and you guys are awesome thank you!
It's not the crank that causes issues. It's that people don't spend anytime on doing the Rod end...That part has to be clean of all the old material. Then polished. If the clearance is a little over. You can use Blue Loctite. That will give you some insurance...The trick with loctite. You have to install the bearings right there and then, before it dries. And don't go stupid crazy with it. Just a very small amount is all you need..I done several this way...One lasted 5 years before I sold it..It was still running good...
i would take one of those 1/2 inch ratchets with the grooves cut into the handle and tap them into the surface of the rod and cap for taking up any cleaance. There is a procedure to fit the bearing tight and that includes some super metal mix to apply under the rod bearing. That can bring ti back to original without removing any more.
I have a Chevy 1996 5.7L 350 Sb is knocking noise. I took the oil pan out and found metal residual. I was told I need a new engine. The engine turn on and drives. Any advice please. Thanks
Hey, quick question, besides draining the oil prior to replacing the Rod bearings , did you do anything to flush out the old oil/ metal particecls off the engine before firing it up with new bearings and oil? I'm doing this as well but I want to make sure I don't spun another Rod bearing because of any metal particecls left in there.
Good job dude...The key here is your tolerance on the bearing. you have passed stage 1 of 2. i would be satisfied when that bearing had done over 5,000 miles without any knocks. You could add ceramic coating to to engine to give the whole engine a new lease of life.
Yeup. Planned on doing the same thing on my Chevy 5.7 but as I pulled out the spun bearing I noticed one of the oil passthrough's in the crankshaft was clogged with metal debris and all the other bearings were scorched and ruff. I also noticed the camshaft looking worn and possibly scorched also... ill be having a new crate engine coming soon😂
hey guys i have a lancer with a spun bearing, i changed the bearings ,but engine is super tight ( will start and idle with only a powerful battery) ,im attempting to properly sand and try it again ,this video gives me hope
Reading other comments about how either some debris or unpolished parts on the crankshaft went through another set of bearings, do you think replacing the crankshaft at the same time would mitigate all of this and make it last somewhat indefinitely
Yes that would help, but I’m sure there are particles elsewhere as well. Crankshaft possibly being one, but first thing that comes to mind is oil pump and the screen that’s in there, especially since that’s pre filter. Spinning a bearing and particles in your engine really messes stuff up!!
@@PostPros I only ask because I believe my buick has a spun bearing(s) and I dont have the time or money to machine my crankshaft, let alone, replace it
Just cut a strip of sandpaper and put it around it, then wrap a shoelace around that twice, and you can pull each end of the shoe string to sand it nicely! Cheap!
Odds are extremely good that bearing'll run another 100k, consistent with the rest of the motor being good. Should really do all the mains while the pan's off. Just saying...
You would have to pull the engine to do the mains. You can change the main bearings on the caps but you wouldn't be able to replace the bearing on the engine because the transmission being bolted to the engine and bolted to the flywheel is going to keep the crank shaft from lowering. It would be wise to replace all the rod bearings
my toyota camry 2001 , oil pressure light flashed made it a few months then went homeand now it soundsLIKE YOR CAR ,,, almost exactly/ maybe thee mechanics that looked or just listened to the engine are ALL CLAIMING DEEP ENGINE RUIN can be FULLOFIT
No, sorry, you'd have really bad problems doing that!! Talk about a knock in your engine FFS!! ROFL!! That thing wouldn't last 2 minutes under load! LOL Hell, it probably wouldn't last the start up process!! LOL
Aye man I have the EXACT same knock, only at 2-3k rpms like yall said. My rod bearing went bad for sure (ran out of oil.) is there any way you guys could help me? Wouldn’t mind tipping you guys some money in exchange, just don’t have anyone to guide me on my speed3 🙏
I was wondering why he looked so familiar to me and you totally called it. If someone called me Jerry Cantrell Jr I would feel highly complimented. So I wonder does dude play guitar and sing?
Because it likely won't last 1000 miles and you'll lose all your money and be bringing it back to their shop complaining. So of course no shop is going to do this. It's just a wild experiment that only has a small chance of lasting.
@@calholli what you don’t know is I spent $30k on a completely fully built brand new 1100 hp engine. I understand certain components would need replacing but no shops near me that do anything sort of engine work will work on a Subaru and I’m not throwing away a perfectly good $20,000 engine when all it needs is some bearings and a few other parts.
@@zokusharuuku1091 I hear you... It's worth a try. But you're not addressing what caused it in the first place... It's like stepping on a nail and it stabs through your shoe and now there's blood on your sock. You can change to new socks again, but as soon as you stick your foot back in that shoe and take another step, that nail is just going to stab your foot again. This engine didn't fail because of bad socks-- it failed because it has a damn nail sticking through it somehow. I hope you understand the analogy. Just read the description of this video-- he even says that it didn't work for long.
That is middle eastern engineering at its finest! To fix it right, pull the crankshaft and piston that's bad , replace the rod ,check the piston for damage, re machine the crankshaft.
it can hold this way too. Heck some BMWs require bearing change as preventive maintenance which is crazy imo. If you don't get them to knock and just change the bearings it will hold.
The problem is you need to figure out the cause of it which is oil starved bearing you need to solve that or you will get another spun bearing in very short time, these cars were never meant to run like that
That was not looking great. It is likely going to take about 10-25k and/or a bunch of cold starts to go bad again... The damage occurs primarily on cold starts before oil pressure builds to lube the bearing. It'll definitely go bad again though even if you keep the proper oil level. I had a Volvo S40 that I nursed along in the same way changing the bearing every 25k or so... Mine didn't look as bad as yours but mine wasn't pretty either. I drove that thing hard in the canyons... was not gentle with it AT ALL after the repair. It held up enough that I didn't mind changing the bearing from time to time. It's a good temporary fix if you don't have a line on a good replacement engine.
Can you please tell me the torqued specs you used I'm now doing this to the same car and can't find the torque specs to it someone please help with this
Lmao ive been driving my Veloster with this same issue for months now. I use additives to quiet down the engine. But now thay i know about this i will be replacomg my bearings next weekend
My 2008 Sonata started knocking bad and the engine stalled. When I saw that it was completely empty of oil, I filled it up. I then drove about 15 miles to get back home. Don't know what I will find, but my mechanic friend said he will come help me drop the pan next week. This just happened yesterday!
Question, and thanks for the content . Greatly appreciate it. When the Rod bearing Caps are some what damaged/scraped up (not major) from a spun bearing can we use some 600/800/1500 wet sandpaper on it, as we do to polish the journals? or does it call for a new Rod bearing cap? Thanks
Rod bearing caps are matched to each rod and need to be kept together and reinstalled the exact same way they came off. So you really cant get a 'new' cap, because they're matched(rod & cap). But you can totally use sandpaper and try to smooth out the surface a little🎉
You haven't driven it long enough... It may last 1000 miles if that... Anytime you spin a rod bearing, you damage the journal of the crankshaft and the connecting rod bore... Short of having the rod resized there is no real way to fix the rod... Another thing is that the journal surface is no longer square without having it turned undersized.
update on the cars condition? going to get under my 98 crown vic to replace them either today or tomorrow. caught it really early and it sounds just like yours (not like others where its very prominent on startup and idle but a very early stage like yours). Hoping this'll last and would like to hear your reply man.
So we tried to replace them a couple times, but they kept spinning. I think the crank was just too bad of shape and was killing bearings.. idk.. It really depends on the engine and how bad it looks. Good luck with yours, hopefully caught it early enough!!🤙
@@PostPros Peter DeCarlo said it best, Rod cap gets oblonged and it will continue to knock rod bearings out. Only solution is to replace the rod then you won't have bearings spinning
Most of the time when people replace bearings they go with standard size and never look to see if undersize bearings were used, which would cause to much clearance and not enough crush fit.
Heat is your engines enemy. Go with a synthetic blend and be sure to flush ALL THE OIL OUT. Replace the bearings, making sure there are no pocks or pits. Use a spot of trans fluid to hold in place when reassembling. Go with a quality oil filter and good oil and some Lucas as rhe last quart added. Be sure the cooling sys is top . Fan relay working, and flush cooling sys , refill with new coolant . Per Auto make. Don't go ape shit for a few hundred miles. And it should hold for a while.
Decent video but when I needed a clear concise number on the plasti gauge you mumbled something unclear like .5 at one time and .05 another time. I think I understood it had to be less than .1 (1/10th of an inch) but that sounds like a very large gap. Did you mean .01? Anyway - post that detail under explanation. I got the concept - kill engine and follow your procedure. We've got a 4.3 Chevy with a rod knock but hasn't spun - and not driving but will drive it off trailer to position for this procedure if we can figure out if we can get the oil pan off but crossmember is in the way. At least front wheel drive cars oil pans seem to be more easily removable.
@@PostPros More than likely it was the rods big end that was causing the spinning. You could also take a punch and punch the main bearing journal in the engine to help hold the bearing but very very slightly.
Dust in a bus how’s it running now still good? Is the knock still gone away? I’m about to do this to my engine 1 question, did you have to take timing chain off or was you able to do all this without touching it?
Stickydicky well it ran good for a while but the knock came back. Replaced it again and it’s running fine. I think there was some crap in the oil passage ways because only the center of the bearing had wear on it which is right where the oil comes out. We’ll see how long it lasts this time!! Didn’t have to mess with the chain at all. Just took the oil pan off and was able to get to the rods. Good luck!!
dustibus cool man glad to know it’s atleast still running , I knew the knock would eventually come back but it’s worth it in my eyes to stay on the road we’re you able to use the same rod bearings(new ofcourse) or did you have to go up a size or have custom bearings made?
Stickydicky no just stock bearing, I think it would last a while. But I think a chunk got in the oil passage and got to the bearing. It’s turbocharged too and doesn’t have an easy life, so if your easy on it, it’ll probably last a lot longer!
I drove my town and country for a week 75 miles twice a day on the freeway, changed the bearings, still was knocking... disappointed I drove it like that for two weeks, same drive 75 miles twice a day, figured to change the bearings just to bandaid it till I could get a new motor, changed em and no more knock. I’ve now driven it 10k miles still no knock. So I guess I might not have had it seated perfect when I did it the first time.
99.999999999% of the time, a spun bearing is a done deal, it's time to replace the crank/rod(s) whatever the spun bearing was connected to! If it's a main bearing, you can only pray to the none existent god in the sky that it didn't F up your engine block beyond use as well!! Most of the time it will overheat your crank beyond repair too! At that point, hopefully you have very good mechanical skills and can do the repairs on your own or you better get out the pocket book, because it's going to cost you big time! If your rod starts knockin', you better start shoppin'!!
Your spun dude! Your brother got more sense than you man he told you its fucked even though u got it back together it might last a little while this is a shit econo box car man get rid of this vw shit, get a better car man
It must be nice to be ignorant enough to think you can get away with a fix like this. Having resized dozens of spun conrods and blocks I know this isn't going to last long, not to mention what will happen when they snap the crankshaft.
@@donaldbuchan4387 come on bro, he is just doing a temporary fix, also if you paid attention he said he was going to swap the engine, so instead of talking crap, why dont you make a video of how it's supposed to be done
I had no clue you could do that through the oil pan opening. I thought you would have to take the entire engine apart. Awesome!
sure you can i`ve done it before with very good success
Just remove the spark plug so you can push it up.
@@nevinkuser9892push what up?
Do yall use the same clearance bearing as OEM?
This is what I needed to see. Just got the faint knock in my 99 Tacoma. Parked it asap. Gonna find that rod and replace it!!!
I’ve don’t this twice on two Kias, both lasted over 2 years now & are still going strong, Just change the oil & filter every 1000 miles for the first 5000 miles & also stick a powerful magnet on the bottom of the oil pan to trap any floating metal that’s inside the engine passages, that way it doesn’t cause further damage, Sand the crank from 430 grit all the way up to 2500 grit, Take a while & is exhausting but it is very possible
wanting to try this on my lancer, car starts ,but engine is very hard to turn by hand ,only with powerful battery
Bearing material is non-ferrous, so I'm afraid the magnet may not help in this case.
Of course the only car I ever spun a bearing on, I have to remove the rear main seal housing, which means tranny gotta come off. lol. Im glad it went good brother!
Thats neat you fixed that. Even I failed at this once on a Honda. But recently I've learned so much and how I did it wrong back then on the Civic. I sold the car the guy that bought it ran a red light in it a week later so I know he fixed it quick. He knew. I also misprinted my phone number when he pulled in he told me my number isn't right and that he like a bicycle lock he figured it out after a day he said all day lol. Wow. My point today was that after seeing this you could have re centered the same bearing back in place after you smoothed the crank . Meaning you didn't need a new one . If it was damaged then yeah,then guage and get one. But thats nest you did this I slipped three of my cars and sold them over nothing. It the bearing was just slipped and came loose just needed placed back then oil.. but no0 sold the whole car four times over sometimes simple odd stuff . My neon engine will need a bearing one day and I'm not throwing it out. Sorry. Il try what you did plus..
Wasn't a permanent fix. Just till they could get a new engine.
Brown 3M scotch pad cut to side of journal use wd-40 or Gasoline as cutting lube.
If you must do this, count how many swipes going back n forth treating like sanding copper pipe for soldering. Remember 33* 3 points of sanding. Count 10, go 33* count 10 go 33* . Repeat so to keep journal OD somewhat consistent. Enjoy.
This video is super inspiring even tho I know sh$t about engines but was seeing if my rod bearing on my 250k sierra could be repaired instead of replaced and you guys are awesome thank you!
Awesome 👌 job. It's good to see you guys fix this together.
Thanks for the video bud, now ive got a weekend start point for the truck.. hope the cars doin well.
Mine is doing the opposite only at idle but at the top side, it is a 3.5 V6 so I'm not sure what to do here
You sure its not your lifters
@ I have bucket sprung valves
It's not the crank that causes issues. It's that people don't spend anytime on doing the Rod end...That part has to be clean of all the old material. Then polished. If the clearance is a little over. You can use Blue Loctite. That will give you some insurance...The trick with loctite. You have to install the bearings right there and then, before it dries.
And don't go stupid crazy with it. Just a very small amount is all you need..I done several this way...One lasted 5 years before I sold it..It was still running good...
Nice to see that Garth from Wayne’s world is doing good these days! Haha jokes aside thanks the for the video! Really helped alot
Party on Dude!
Can you please give us an update - has the fix held up?
i would take one of those 1/2 inch ratchets with the grooves cut into the handle and tap them into the surface of the rod and cap for taking up any cleaance. There is a procedure to fit the bearing tight and that includes some super metal mix to apply under the rod bearing. That can bring ti back to original without removing any more.
Question bearing is lose after changing. Does that mean crank is shot.
Rock on dudes! Way to ghetto fix that bad boy. No need to get a new engine... just ghetto fix it again 😂!!!
Always keep 2 of the 1 L bottles of Oil in the boot, for such an occasion! 😉
I love how he said “we’re gunna buff that out” 😂😂😂😂😂😂
I have a Chevy 1996 5.7L 350 Sb is knocking noise. I took the oil pan out and found metal residual. I was told I need a new engine. The engine turn on and drives. Any advice please. Thanks
having the same issue in my 89 accord with the 2500-3k rpm thing only around 1/4 throttle and it does it
How polished should the rod journal be? Mine still looks rough but I'm just trying to get this thing running and then get rid of it.
How did that go
@@mr3x972 I used 600 grit sandpaper and polished it really well, it has 4,600 miles since the fix and it has been fine.
2 minutes in and im waiting for him to drop that damn bearing again
I got a 07 PT same issue just happened, trying this out this week 😱
It worked on my PT, saved me from buying a new car
Did you guys use the same connecting rod
Hey, quick question, besides draining the oil prior to replacing the Rod bearings , did you do anything to flush out the old oil/ metal particecls off the engine before firing it up with new bearings and oil? I'm doing this as well but I want to make sure I don't spun another Rod bearing because of any metal particecls left in there.
Just clean out the pickup tube. Any thing that can get through that screen will be caught by the filter.
I am wondering if you replaced all four bearings if it will last longer... Having the same prob. Thanks!!!
Good job dude...The key here is your tolerance on the bearing. you have passed stage 1 of 2. i would be satisfied when that bearing had done over 5,000 miles without any knocks. You could add ceramic coating to to engine to give the whole engine a new lease of life.
What did y'all use to resurface the crankrod and bearing cap?
Yeup. Planned on doing the same thing on my Chevy 5.7 but as I pulled out the spun bearing I noticed one of the oil passthrough's in the crankshaft was clogged with metal debris and all the other bearings were scorched and ruff. I also noticed the camshaft looking worn and possibly scorched also... ill be having a new crate engine coming soon😂
I remember I spun a rod and was told by a mechanic I need a new crankshaft, then a few weeks later he told me to get a new engine
Did you machine the crank
Did you replace the connecting rod?
hey guys i have a lancer with a spun bearing, i changed the bearings ,but engine is super tight ( will start and idle with only a powerful battery) ,im attempting to properly sand and try it again ,this video gives me hope
update ,tried it ,works ,starts and idles smooth , but it depends on the extent of the damage
I hope you at least put a new cap on the ended of the con rod..
Did she hold up?
No, we ended up changing the engine. Crank was too badly worn out.
Ayy, my man. Any indication of how long that fix lasted for? I'm convinced these machine shops are just anal about tolerances.
You could make a fortune. We have very few here and the wait time is so long cause they are overloaded
Maybe try some valve Polishing Compound for situations like this(Carefully)
It would be a whole lot easier to use the dipstick and top it up before it sucks air in the pickup don't you think?
Reading other comments about how either some debris or unpolished parts on the crankshaft went through another set of bearings, do you think replacing the crankshaft at the same time would mitigate all of this and make it last somewhat indefinitely
Yes that would help, but I’m sure there are particles elsewhere as well. Crankshaft possibly being one, but first thing that comes to mind is oil pump and the screen that’s in there, especially since that’s pre filter. Spinning a bearing and particles in your engine really messes stuff up!!
@@PostPros still better than a new engine though, probably
Replace crankshaft and connecting rod and replace bearings and it would be good as new again...
Good luck finding a crankshaft for this motor
Anybody know if this will work for a spun brg on a frs/brz/86?
It all depends on the damage the spun bearing made
What would happen if you dont buff the crank journal and just replace the rod bearing?
That could work, but sanding/buffing just insures you that it’s smooth and not any high spots on the surface!
@@PostPros I only ask because I believe my buick has a spun bearing(s) and I dont have the time or money to machine my crankshaft, let alone, replace it
No very bad need to be smooth polish look any imperfections will clean of oil film and scrape badly and u will be back to zero or worse
It will go out again. the rod journal is out of round.
Just cut a strip of sandpaper and put it around it, then wrap a shoelace around that twice, and you can pull each end of the shoe string to sand it nicely! Cheap!
Odds are extremely good that bearing'll run another 100k, consistent with the rest of the motor being good. Should really do all the mains while the pan's off. Just saying...
You would have to pull the engine to do the mains. You can change the main bearings on the caps but you wouldn't be able to replace the bearing on the engine because the transmission being bolted to the engine and bolted to the flywheel is going to keep the crank shaft from lowering. It would be wise to replace all the rod bearings
@@advancedanr you can spin them out, kind of a pain but doable. I've done it on an M62
There's no way in hell that thing even lasted 10k miles. You can't just replace a broken part and not fix the thing that broke it.
The video literally said that they went around a corner and oil starvation occurred.
And also ran low on oil, so nothing mechanically failed to ruin the bearing accept for user error running low on oil and taking a sharp turn
is it still holding on?
no, failed again after 2 months.
@@jasonmorgan2817
Repair ,maintanance,i agree
Great job
my toyota camry 2001 , oil pressure light flashed made it a few months then went homeand now it soundsLIKE YOR CAR ,,, almost exactly/ maybe thee mechanics that looked or just listened to the engine are ALL CLAIMING DEEP ENGINE RUIN can be FULLOFIT
Check oil pressure with a gauge? if you can push the piston down as it's in the descending stroke, that's the rod knock. should be no movement.
.05 mm is .002 " good clearance
is this the way to fix a slung rod ?
Possibly, it just all depends on how it looks..
Good luck!!🔧⚙️
Sometimes you can go with a .10 or.20 rod bearing if the clearance is not fat enough.
No, sorry, you'd have really bad problems doing that!! Talk about a knock in your engine FFS!! ROFL!! That thing wouldn't last 2 minutes under load! LOL Hell, it probably wouldn't last the start up process!! LOL
Aye man I have the EXACT same knock, only at 2-3k rpms like yall said. My rod bearing went bad for sure (ran out of oil.) is there any way you guys could help me? Wouldn’t mind tipping you guys some money in exchange, just don’t have anyone to guide me on my speed3 🙏
So how long did it last?
2 months
@@jasonmorgan2817 I don't believe you know.
an hour LOL
Update on the bearing ? Good job guys
Bearing kept spinning after we replaced it, the crankshaft was in too bad of shape. Worth a try tho!!🤙🎉
@@PostPros how long did it last?
Couple months, then started hearing it again✊✊
Jerry Cantrell Jr here fixing engines.
I was wondering why he looked so familiar to me and you totally called it. If someone called me Jerry Cantrell Jr I would feel highly complimented. So I wonder does dude play guitar and sing?
If only I could just get someone to do this for me. No shop will do it, they just want to put a whole brand new engine in.
Because it likely won't last 1000 miles and you'll lose all your money and be bringing it back to their shop complaining. So of course no shop is going to do this. It's just a wild experiment that only has a small chance of lasting.
@@calholli what you don’t know is I spent $30k on a completely fully built brand new 1100 hp engine. I understand certain components would need replacing but no shops near me that do anything sort of engine work will work on a Subaru and I’m not throwing away a perfectly good $20,000 engine when all it needs is some bearings and a few other parts.
@@zokusharuuku1091 I hear you... It's worth a try. But you're not addressing what caused it in the first place... It's like stepping on a nail and it stabs through your shoe and now there's blood on your sock. You can change to new socks again, but as soon as you stick your foot back in that shoe and take another step, that nail is just going to stab your foot again. This engine didn't fail because of bad socks-- it failed because it has a damn nail sticking through it somehow. I hope you understand the analogy.
Just read the description of this video-- he even says that it didn't work for long.
How much clearance did the rod have to the crank journal?
Apparently it's none ya!
@@Anarchy-Is-Liberty Yea I had to find out elsewhere!
That is middle eastern engineering at its finest! To fix it right, pull the crankshaft and piston that's bad , replace the rod ,check the piston for damage, re machine the crankshaft.
it can hold this way too. Heck some BMWs require bearing change as preventive maintenance which is crazy imo. If you don't get them to knock and just change the bearings it will hold.
How long did it last? I'm about to run this repair on my Turbo MR2... haha.
it won't last long. don't try it!
He’s 100% correct
I'm having that problem with my wife's Volvo s60 2.5t over rev
The problem is you need to figure out the cause of it which is oil starved bearing you need to solve that or you will get another spun bearing in very short time, these cars were never meant to run like that
That was not looking great. It is likely going to take about 10-25k and/or a bunch of cold starts to go bad again... The damage occurs primarily on cold starts before oil pressure builds to lube the bearing. It'll definitely go bad again though even if you keep the proper oil level. I had a Volvo S40 that I nursed along in the same way changing the bearing every 25k or so... Mine didn't look as bad as yours but mine wasn't pretty either. I drove that thing hard in the canyons... was not gentle with it AT ALL after the repair. It held up enough that I didn't mind changing the bearing from time to time. It's a good temporary fix if you don't have a line on a good replacement engine.
A spun bearing primarily comes from oil starvation whether it be a cold start, run out of oil or failed oil pump...
👍
While we’re at it, could also be due to clogged oil passage(s)…
Can you please tell me the torqued specs you used I'm now doing this to the same car and can't find the torque specs to it someone please help with this
I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata and my car started making this noise 268 miles ago. Had no idea what it was. Needless to say, I know now.
Lmao ive been driving my Veloster with this same issue for months now. I use additives to quiet down the engine. But now thay i know about this i will be replacomg my bearings next weekend
My 2008 Sonata started knocking bad and the engine stalled. When I saw that it was completely empty of oil, I filled it up. I then drove about 15 miles to get back home. Don't know what I will find, but my mechanic friend said he will come help me drop the pan next week. This just happened yesterday!
@@loudtwinkiesxd98 my Veloster is doing the same. Were you able to fix it through oil pan?
@@darrinstinson2890 yes. Repleaced it through oil pan. But doing so i also had to buy paste for the oil pan to put back in place.
Question, and thanks for the content . Greatly appreciate it. When the Rod bearing Caps are some what damaged/scraped up (not major) from a spun bearing can we use some 600/800/1500 wet sandpaper on it, as we do to polish the journals? or does it call for a new Rod bearing cap? Thanks
Rod bearing caps are matched to each rod and need to be kept together and reinstalled the exact same way they came off. So you really cant get a 'new' cap, because they're matched(rod & cap). But you can totally use sandpaper and try to smooth out the surface a little🎉
@@PostPros Greatly appreciate the reply! Thanks for the support, and I'll clean those caps up.
Just drove 30 mins home on a spun bearing in my geo metro
Fingers crossed I can just replace bearing. But at least new engine is only $300 from Junkyard
You haven't driven it long enough... It may last 1000 miles if that...
Anytime you spin a rod bearing, you damage the journal of the crankshaft and the connecting rod bore...
Short of having the rod resized there is no real way to fix the rod...
Another thing is that the journal surface is no longer square without having it turned undersized.
Not sure if you are active atm but what did y’all start with “grit wise” and what did y’all do with the cap?
Started with 1000grit finished 1500... sanded the cap a little too🤙 good luck!!
@@PostPros I’m actually about to start tonight
update on the cars condition? going to get under my 98 crown vic to replace them either today or tomorrow. caught it really early and it sounds just like yours (not like others where its very prominent on startup and idle but a very early stage like yours). Hoping this'll last and would like to hear your reply man.
So we tried to replace them a couple times, but they kept spinning. I think the crank was just too bad of shape and was killing bearings.. idk.. It really depends on the engine and how bad it looks. Good luck with yours, hopefully caught it early enough!!🤙
@@PostPros Peter DeCarlo said it best, Rod cap gets oblonged and it will continue to knock rod bearings out. Only solution is to replace the rod then you won't have bearings spinning
Most of the time when people replace bearings they go with standard size and never look to see if undersize bearings were used, which would cause to much clearance and not enough crush fit.
Heat is your engines enemy. Go with a synthetic blend and be sure to flush ALL THE OIL OUT. Replace the bearings, making sure there are no pocks or pits.
Use a spot of trans fluid to hold in place when reassembling. Go with a quality oil filter and good oil and some Lucas as rhe last quart added.
Be sure the cooling sys is top . Fan relay working, and flush cooling sys , refill with new coolant . Per Auto make.
Don't go ape shit for a few hundred miles. And it should hold for a while.
Still going good?
It ran for a while but the crank was kinda torn up and kept eating bearings. It was definitely worth a try!
@@PostPros what's a while, a few days or weeks?
Could you have buffed the crank more?
You we suppose to take it to machine shop. Get it machined and get correct bearings.
Or two stepped showing out. Ask me how i know. 😂
Is the car still holding up bro? Really appreciate the video it helped me out
Our crank was too far gone and kept eating up bearings😬
Just all depends on how everything is looking in there🔧
When did jesse eisenberg start making UA-cam videos, and stopped making movies?
😆
Decent video but when I needed a clear concise number on the plasti gauge you mumbled something unclear like .5 at one time and .05 another time. I think I understood it had to be less than .1 (1/10th of an inch) but that sounds like a very large gap. Did you mean .01? Anyway - post that detail under explanation. I got the concept - kill engine and follow your procedure. We've got a 4.3 Chevy with a rod knock but hasn't spun - and not driving but will drive it off trailer to position for this procedure if we can figure out if we can get the oil pan off but crossmember is in the way. At least front wheel drive cars oil pans seem to be more easily removable.
Any updates ? is it still good?
It kept destroying bearings, the crank was too far gone I think. It did make it last a lot longer tho🤙
@@PostPros how long did it last?
@@PostPros More than likely it was the rods big end that was causing the spinning. You could also take a punch and punch the main bearing journal in the engine to help hold the bearing but very very slightly.
You can get away with cleaning up crank but if you don't change rod it won't work .PS ROD GETS EGG SHAPED Must replace or repair rod
That wasnt spun. That was just minor knock.
you say , go find another engine?! from the junkyard?! and after that....find another one?....just don't let them run out of oil *lol*
2:45 there's a lot of flake in their. :[
I sure wished you lived around here
Dust in a bus how’s it running now still good? Is the knock still gone away? I’m about to do this to my engine 1 question, did you have to take timing chain off or was you able to do all this without touching it?
Stickydicky well it ran good for a while but the knock came back. Replaced it again and it’s running fine. I think there was some crap in the oil passage ways because only the center of the bearing had wear on it which is right where the oil comes out. We’ll see how long it lasts this time!! Didn’t have to mess with the chain at all. Just took the oil pan off and was able to get to the rods. Good luck!!
dustibus cool man glad to know it’s atleast still running , I knew the knock would eventually come back but it’s worth it in my eyes to stay on the road we’re you able to use the same rod bearings(new ofcourse) or did you have to go up a size or have custom bearings made?
Stickydicky no just stock bearing, I think it would last a while. But I think a chunk got in the oil passage and got to the bearing. It’s turbocharged too and doesn’t have an easy life, so if your easy on it, it’ll probably last a lot longer!
dustibus awesome man thanks for the quick reply
dustibus sorry bro one more question now that I think of it ,, how would you go about cleaning the oil passage hole the easiest most effective way
I’m a delivery driver and I went about 4 months with it knocking exactly like this. You think I can just polish the crank? Lol
Cross your fingers!!🔧🔧😂
I drove my town and country for a week 75 miles twice a day on the freeway, changed the bearings, still was knocking... disappointed I drove it like that for two weeks, same drive 75 miles twice a day, figured to change the bearings just to bandaid it till I could get a new motor, changed em and no more knock. I’ve now driven it 10k miles still no knock. So I guess I might not have had it seated perfect when I did it the first time.
Seriously.. music at the end of your video What is that? I can not find it using recognition software. Please!!!!!
Noir Et Blanc Vie | Baeb Steps.. found it, just needed proper software... great music, thx for the video!
If you flush it with mineral spirits it'll clean it
That sounds like what my cj7 engine is making on my channel lmao
clueless kids buffing a crank shaft with a spun bearing.. mercy
The problem is that Its a VW.
99.999999999% of the time, a spun bearing is a done deal, it's time to replace the crank/rod(s) whatever the spun bearing was connected to! If it's a main bearing, you can only pray to the none existent god in the sky that it didn't F up your engine block beyond use as well!! Most of the time it will overheat your crank beyond repair too! At that point, hopefully you have very good mechanical skills and can do the repairs on your own or you better get out the pocket book, because it's going to cost you big time!
If your rod starts knockin', you better start shoppin'!!
send it until it blows. luckily the junkyard has plenty of engines for cheap
Your spun dude! Your brother got more sense than you man he told you its fucked even though u got it back together it might last a little while this is a shit econo box car man get rid of this vw shit, get a better car man
I got tired of looking at his mug!!!
It must be nice to be ignorant enough to think you can get away with a fix like this. Having resized dozens of spun conrods and blocks I know this isn't going to last long, not to mention what will happen when they snap the crankshaft.
Bro chill.....
@@PostPros I'm chilled dude, I'm not the one with the fucked engine.
@@donaldbuchan4387 come on bro, he is just doing a temporary fix, also if you paid attention he said he was going to swap the engine, so instead of talking crap, why dont you make a video of how it's supposed to be done