I'm loving all these informational teaching videos! Just got through watching a video where a guy was telling people to put oil on the backside before installing, claiming the oil would squeeze out. I thought it sounded like bad advice. I rebuilt my first engine back in 1985 when I was 19 (a 455 Super Duty big block in a 78 Trans Am). I learned then to not lube the back side. Glad you confirmed this and explained the reasoning.
technically anything that creates motion is a motor, its in the name, no matter what it uses as fuel, electricity, compressed air, diesel, gasoline, calling it a motor is as "politically correct" as calling it an engine and you can really only use the word engine carefully, cant call an electric motor an engine cause you would look like a dumbass. . .nobody has even been looked at funny for saying motor, at work we call everything a motor cause no matter what it runs on it does the same thing: spin
A motor is a machine that converts other forms of energy into mechanical energy and so imparts motion. An engine is a motor that converts thermal energy to mechanical work. wordnetweb.princeton.edu In other words, an engine is a motor, but a motor is not necessarily an engine.
Hi! Your channel has inspired me to think about truck fuel mileage. I am a retired Physics teacher so I tried to look at some of the factors that affect truck fuel mileage. If this does not seem real or of value to you, just ignore it, I had fun anyway. I researched the internet and found truck rolling resistance is 6 lbs per 1000 lbs of gross weight, diesel fuel contains 155 million joules of energy per gallon, a semi truck frontal area is 8.5 feet by 13.5 feet or 114.8 square feet or 10.6 square meters, the density of air is 1.2041 kg/cubic meter, the efficiency of a turbocharged diesel truck engine can be as high as 45%, drive line efficiency is 92% , air drag coefficient is 0.96. Lets assume our gross weight is 70,000 lbs so our rolling resistance is 6 x 70 or 420 lbs. Air resistance is given by the formula ½ times drag coefficient times air density times frontal area and times relative wind speed squared. Lets assume there is no wind relative to the earth so the truck speed becomes the relative wind speed. Let our truck move at 58mph or 26 meters per second, our air drag becomes 1/2x.96x1.204x10.6x26 squared for 4141 Newtons or 931 lbs. Adding 420 lbs to 931 lbs gives us 1351 lbs. The work done by this force per mile is the force times distance or 1351 lbs times 5280 feet or 7.13 million ft lbs per mile or 9.67million joules per mile. Fuel mileage would then be 0.45 times 155 million joules / gallon divided by 9.67 millionJoules per mile or 7.21 miles per gallon. If our truck climbs a 4 percent grade at 40 miles per hour the rolling resistance is still 420 pounds, the air resistance drops to 441 pounds for a sum of 861 pounds. The work to do this per mile is 861 lbs times 5280 ft for 4.55 million lbs foot of work or 6.16 million joules. Our truck now needs to lift its weight 4 feet for every 100 feet it travels so the lifting energy is 40,000 lbs times 4/100 times 5280 ft/mile or 8.45 million lbs foot per mile or 11.45 million joules per mile. Adding gives us 17.6 million joules per mile. 0.45*155 million J per gallon divided by 17.6 million J per mile gives us 3.96 miles per gallon. I know there are a lot of factors but are the fuel mileage numbers close?
+joe polen I would say you did a pretty good job there, as far as the numbers being close, they seem a little high for a truck with a 70,000 pound load. Most guys with Cat engines seem to get 4.5-6 mpg. Of course these are a little bit older engines in usually not the most aerodynamic trucks. I wish I would have taken a physics course in college now. It is practical engineering/science. There are guys that get double digit mileages out there called hypermilers. Not sure if you have heard of them, but by mostly becoming more aerodynamic and driving slower, they can see some real mileage gains. Not sure what other tricks they do. I liked your comment a lot though, would you mind if I used it as part of a video?
Hi Thanks for the reply. Yes you can use this in your video. I thought it was interesting to look into some of the main physical factors about fuel mileage in large trucks.
I'm impressed, I haven't thought about computational physics in a long time, and you got me there at 4am when I was doing research on how to fix my significant other's car lol. The only thing I could possibly add would be your missing out on wear on the engine by assuming the engine efficiency. If your pulling data for that online, those numbers are also probably for "lab like conditions" of the engine. Also it would be important that your numbers only represent the M/G at those specific times, and isn't an average over a period of time, which would be a little more accurate. Although even any average would be subject to the route taken, the user's driving habits, blah blah blah. I think for a lot of your average joes out there it can be easy to forget to think about where you numbers, and data come from, and how that could affect things.
But thank you +joe polen, I enjoyed the distraction, and appreciate anyone that has an interest and understanding of physics. From a former physics student at WKU, unfortunately I had to stop short of my bachelors, but I still love the field, and am resolute to finish that degree someday.
When everything is working as well as expected, what effects mileage on any vehicle is the resistance of air. At speeds under 48 mph the air resistance is fairly light and is a small factor. However the amount of energy for maintaining each mph above 48 mph goes up progressively. Back in the 1970's the speed limit was reduced to 55 mph for fuel conservation. So if you are in a situation where time is not the issue but range is 45/48 mph will give you the most range from a tank of fuel. You can expect about 10 more miles per gallon if you slow down to 45/48 mph from 70 mph in a passenger car. Slowing down to 55 mph from 70 will be about half that at around 5 more mpg. Just something to conciser when pressing on to the next exit for a fuel stop. My low fuel warning comes on when down to 2 gallons. Slowing down to 45/48 from 70 will get me 20 more miles to the next fuel stop or slowing to 55 will get me 10 more miles. Slowing down to say 40 or even slower will not get you any more significant range. By Law the lowest MINIMUM speed on the interstate system is 45 mph the state of Florida is 50 mph. The safety risks are high traveling on the interstate at 45 mph and should be considered. It is very significant to gain 160 more miles from one 16 gallon tank of fuel, at the cost of reducing speed by 25 mph. Increasing range from approximately 432 to 592 miles, 37% increase in range at a cost of 35.7% increase in time. The time used is 6 hour 10 min when travel speed is 70 mph to empty at 432 miles. Traveling at 48 mph to the same distance of 432 miles is 9 hours even with 4.3 gallons still in the tank (that is a 1/4+ tank) costing 2 hours 50 min. Going the maximum distance of 592 miles at 48 mph would take 12 hours 20 min, or 8 hours 27 min plus the fuel stop at 70 mph. Just from reducing speed from 70 mph you could increase your fuel economy by 37% at 45/48 mph, 30% at 50 mph, 25% at 55 mph, 19% at 60 mph, and 11% at 65 mph. These calculations are what I have achieved with my 2007 Mustang GT 4.6L approximately 27 mpg at 70 mph and 37 mpg at 45 mph. The Mustang is fairly aerodynamic and it still suffers from wind resistance. I have not driven a big rig loaded to 70,000 pounds to know if they could get better or worst than 37% increase in range by reducing speed. As a safety consideration the heavy loaded trailers will decrease the hazard of jack-knifing when traveling slower. The transportation company "Swift" has speed limiters governing their speed to save money on fuel and reduce accidents. Effective November 27th, 2017, Swift company trucks went from 60 mph on the pedal and 62 mph on cruise, to 63 on the pedal and 65 on cruise. Time is money, so even Swift has nudged it up a tad but still saving 10% or more that the other companies that run at 70 mph or faster.
extremely helpful. Spun a crank bearing on a 3126b last week after coming out of reputable shop and running for only 183 miles with 90k on motor and good maintenance. Coincidence, destiny i don't know but this helped me understand what i'm dealing with. Thanks
Great video! Shocked I didn’t hear him mention oil starvation. You can do normal maintenance and change oil regularly every 3k miles but still spin a bearing. In my case at 148k miles my engine was burning oil worse than I knew. Didn’t leak oil at all. Saw oil pressure light come on, checked oil and no oil registering on the stick. Ticking started soon after and then a few months later came the rod knock. Pulled engine and confirmed spun rod bearing on cylinder #1. Most engines will start burning some oil after 100k. I suggest you regularly check your oil level even if you know your oil should be good for another 2k miles.
I spun a bearing on a road trip almost 40 years ago and shot a piston out of the oil pan. Luckily my block didn't have damage. Ever since, I check oil once a week and when on road trips in the RV, I'm checking it daily.
Luckily no losses in this dept. In March '16, I had engine inframed due to failed rings. Then in July '16, I had rod and main bearings replaced. Having well in excess of one-million miles, I hadn't noticed just how low the oil pressure had become. After the bearings replacement, oil pressure jumped from 40-psi to 62-psi. In 2017, I had the bull-gear and other gears on front of engine replaced. This year 2018, I'm going to have six-pack injector replacement and see if it's possible to get a new high performance camshaft installed. I've spent a lot of money to ensure my engine lasts for another million or two miles because I like this particular engine and the truck it's installed in and I want to get all the life out of them as I can without the detrimental issues described in this video. I'm very pro-active when it comes to maintenance including oil changes at every 15,000-miles religiously.
4 years late, but thats fucked. 15000 miles for oil changes? Americans are absolutely clueless when it comes to maintenance lol 24000kms for an oil change? yikes. 10k kms at most for a change.
@@NescaffeOne - 15,000 miles for a 15-litre diesel. Only 5,000 miles for a gasoline car engine on synthetic oil. Most trucking companies today operate on a 20,000-30,000 mile oil change interval. Not to blow your mind but with oil centrifuges, heavy duty diesels can go 100,000 miles between oil changes. The centrifuges remove fine metal particles and soot which keeps oil cleaner longer. Semi-trucks can attain 100,000 miles every 10-12 months. With today's high tech fuel injectors running at 35,000 psi pressure, fuel is better atomized in the cylinder producing less exhaust gases and soot getting passed the piston rings which keeps engine oil cleaner than in older diesels. The huge reduction of sulfur in today's diesel fuel refinement also lends to cleaner engines.
@@kingjames8283 oh diesel! I thought you were originally talking about gasoline engines! Hahah my bad man! I almost had a heart attack. (Australian) so seeing over 20,000 kms for oil change I was like BROOOO ;( hahah. But I’ll take your word for semis, I have no experience with bigger diesels :)
thanks for the education ! I believe my 94 corvette LT 1 spun a rod bearing. sounds like nuts and bolts in a tin can. I'm devastated!! ALWAYS on point with regular maintenance. 58K miles. oil pressure remained normal at idle and driving. just started making noise after engine warmed up.
Oh man, thats unfortunate. I feel your pain. These are really quite reliable engines, if not screwed around with. I have a 94 Trans Am with the LT1 engine, I bought new . It has 338.000 miles on it now. Engine never been touched, even the timing chain is original. I've done 3000 mile oil changes since new, just used regular Castrol GTX in it. I cant understand what could cause your issues at such low mileage. Good luck.
I know someone that had the same issue. They caught it fast and replaced the bearing. It ran for another 20k until some idiot rear ended the car at a stop light. (Both cars were completely totaled)
I worked as a Toyota tech in the 90s. The 1-HDT engine had an issue with rod bearings but would usually give no warning before throwing the rod out of the block.
Very well explained"!! My engine just started the dreaded rod knock ! 4.3 liter v6 astro van and im just gonna try to replace the rod bearings since it just started ! Hopefully i caught it befor it damaged anything else
What an informative video! Thank you! (And, sadly, not only did I spin that main bearing, but it was pretty much confetti when the mechanic opened things up.)
Great video as always. If I were to get bad news you’d be the Diesel Dr. I’d want to give it to me. However, now I’m scared to start my truck in the morning lol
Excellent very well explained Good video Normally when the main bearings get worn you hear a rumble when engine is ticking over and the noise increases as the engine is speeded up this is with no load on engine, it is even worse when underload
Thanks for sharing your video. Always appreciate Knowledge Based Video with visual examples. Would like to see the other damaged components, i.e., Piston Rods, Thrust Bearings, Damaged Bent Valves, Broken Blocks, Cams, etc..
Awesome info, I've been looking for a video that might explain a huge metal flake I removed out of an oil pan. Once I removed the oil pan I was able to get a look at all the connecting rods, the bottom of the pistons, combustion chambers And anything else in that area that might explain the cause of the seizing. I recently bought a 2015 f250 super duty for $1,000. They said the engine was seized and it was not worth them fixing it. I had never taken apart a vehicle before and thought it could be a fun learning project. I am a day or so away from removing the engine and transmission together and putting it on an engine stand to disassemble it. I plan on rebuilding the engine completely No matter how much time or money it cost. Anyways the flake I removed from the oil pan was one of three I noticed when I looked under the block after removing the oil pan. I'm pretty sure would cost this failure was a damaged gasket that clogged the oil return which reduced oil flow And the added friction spun crankshaft bearings almost completely out. They look like metal lays potato chips.
@@Rx7man I found that those flakes were the main journal bearings and it did not seem that bad but I was going to bring the crankshaft in the cylinder head to a machine shop and needed to replace all the bearings some seals for the crankshaft and a few other items. It was going to cost probably right over $1,000. But then I came across a brand new short block crate motor from Ford for $1,700. I kept the old one and paid the $500 core fee and plan on either rebuilding the old one for a spare dropping motor or to someone else for more than the $500. So the truck is running and at the moment I'm in the process of replacing axle, and pinion bearings while I wait for my complete suspension lift to be shipped from the manufacturer which because of Corona virus is taking away too long. Anyways thanks for asking it's been a pretty fun project.
@@brucebanner5860 I'm doing a diff in an old Dodge right now too.. in my case the spider gears blew up. Yep, the rona is really breaking the supply chain Good to hear an update, sounds like you got a decent truck for a good price (even though I love mocking fords)
@@Rx7man funny how the way you think of something can change with a slightly different perspective. I've made a few mods to this truck that make it better.
@@brucebanner5860 I waited 8 months for a head gasket... thankfully it wasn't something I needed, I just like having one in stock.. I'm remote, so keeping stock on basic essentials is a good idea
My BMW X5M with 49,000 miles unfortunately had a rod bearing spun. The oil was changed religiously every 5,000 miles & I drove like a gentleman. Dealer wants $36,000 for a new engine & will not offer any assistance. Decided to have it rebuilt at a fraction of what the “stealer-ship” wants. The rebuilder, who used to work for BMW, said that they designed the bearings to be too tight & this is a common issue with low mile BMW’s
Hey Josh, wanted to stop by and thank you for your time yesterday. It was great meeting you and I enjoyed the interview. I hope I get a chance to work with you, thanks Oscar.
+O. Sanchez Hi Oscar, it was a pleasure meeting you and being in on the interview. I think you did well and were very honest. It is up to the Polo shirt wearers now. Hopefully we will know soon.
Another cause could be slacked nuts on connecting rod big end bearing (too low pressure on press or too low fastening torque) , lack of split pins or reusing old ones during overhaul. Sometimes it can score cylinder liners and pistons as well or just damage the rings. Not sure about valve collision - probably in extreme situations. In the end you'll need to do major overhaul on the engine - dismantle, clean, measure, replace parts.
My son's engine is making a horrible mechanical sounds. Per your video, looks like it might have a bad bearings or worse "( Will be removing the eingine for a thorough inspection...Thanks for the very informative video...
Very good video as always I have to take my 3406e to someone to check that bearings... I have 3 years with this truck and never had it checked... Here in my country is difficult to find a good CAT mechanic...
What country is that? How many miles on that 3406Eengine? If you have practiced good preventive maintenance, it is not necessary to check the bearings as it was in the "old" days.
Chad Jessup I live in Costa Rica,that's in between Panamá and Nicaragua... I have this truck since some guy brought it here in 2014 I don't know how many miles it has on it and nobody has touched the engine or something before... I use DELO 400 15W/40 My truck is a 1999 KW T2000 CAT 3406e 1LW
8:55 I really think that the bearing journal is the surface on the crankshaft (or camshaft) which the bearing rides against. Bearing housing is something that holds the bearing in place.
I have a 2000 Honda Civic, it had a knock at startup but went away for while but you could hear it as I was driving (I'm to blame because drove it with low oil). I got it sent to a shop and had the crank plastic gauged and replaced the bearings. However, I could still hear a knock (I don't know why I didn't take it back), then a couple days later it ends up knocking again and I struggled getting home barely getting to 20mph. I took it to the shop, they said I need a new crank, later on then said a new engine. Now I have a block, crank, head, and oil pan all for $150 planning to rebuild it but don't know if I really want to anymore.
Thank you for your service. Your in my brother Eddie's World , runn'n with the Big Rigs.! Why are Cats Cam Bearings less likely to fail.? Thank you, and Keep Truck'n. Rod Cap! Too much terminology ah ha. Good Job. Or some may say 'Rod end cap'. Keep up the Good work, and nice Doggie. :-)
Okay, it's a Saturday night, Summer season, loads of women down Puerto Banus (I live in Marbella/Southern Spain) and I have just watched Adept Ape's channel on 'Spun Bearings'.... 'Hell YEAH!!!'
I have a Chevy 1996 5.7L 350 Sb is knocking noise. I took the oil pan out and found metal residual. I was told I need a new engine. The engine turn on and drives. Any advice please. Thanks
Of as soon as you said hit the valve my heart dropped. I knew I would need a new short block but I seriously would be sad if my new heads were destroyed
I have an 08 GMC 4.2 with a spun bearing and bearing damage on the Piston rods I changed the rode bearings probably one week after the knocking sound just dropped the front end and the oil pan and only change the piston rod bearings on the crankshaft it's been 6 months now still no problem I know it's a cheaper fix I did not pull the crankshaft or anyting but I was looking basically for 6 months to a year out of the engine, but still like I said six months and it's still no sound running fine I did use break in Lube when putting the rod bearings back together and a thicker oil.
@bandr when I remove the oil pan I left two bolts in it poured diesel fuel in the top of the engine let it drain down and I only cleaned the bottom part of the engine and when I poured oil and then I used a quart and a half and let it drain down afterwards to clean and discarted, just by doing that you can see what debris you can out of the engine. so I clean the bottom part of the engine and clean the oil pan also I sanded down the aluminum oil pan and st the lowest part i JB welded a magnet on the inside and on the outside of the oil pan. So the magnet will pick up the rest of debris that I don't get and when I remove the oil pan to begin with there was a lot of little shreds of metal.
@Dustin Collins I had it for over 2 years at 248000 miles I figured it was time to get another one I sold it. Believe it or not I bought another 2008 with a 123000 miles. Still have it today Change my oil every 30000 miles with high mileage shell rotating Marvel mystery oil & Lucas every other time. 7 quarts. just kind of watching keep it full every month or 2.
Nice explanation , I have a question, when you said it may caused by a wrong timing for combustion, where it will affect on, is it on the Journal of crankshaft or on the Journal of the connecting rod Journal ?
After watching this video, I shed a small tear. I spun a rod bearing in my 5.0 coyote. Do not the know the full extent of the damage, yet. The pony is going into the shop next week and will get a answer fully. Good bye to lots of money
I like your explanations but if you have the time section off a piece of crank shaft, get a con rod and a main bearing journal to help further what you are describing.
Mains supply oil to rods, so a spun main will also take a rod with it, since the oil hole in the upper bearing half will be out of alignment with the oil hole.
Thank you ! I was watching an LS video and he's changing the bearings, and I have no idea what they do or purpose they serve. EDIT : You have a Noah vibe going from Alaskan Bush People.
Ugg. I didn't spin a bearing, but I had a rod knock bad enough for the knock sensor to shut it down. 2006 Chrysler Pacifica 3.5. Do rod bearings spin as well? Or is that just mains? I'm going to make a video as well, you've inspired me. I'm going to try to get the scratches out with the shoelace trick. They are just barely deep enough to feel with a fingernail. First I'm going to go get a ballpoint micrometer to see if the gouges raised the tolerance too much. My modified version of the shoelace trick is to put double sided tape on a deep socket, tie it in a knot, then it works like a belt sander. I'm breaking my rule today and going to 220 grit first. Shouldn't polish more than 600 because the tiny scratches hold oil. I know it's wrong. But I need to get on the road. Found a 4.0 to rebuild correctly. I just need to squeeze a few thousand miles. Thanks for posting.
The knock sensor has nothing to do with detecting, stopping, or shutting down rod knock. The knock sensor detects spark knock, not rod knock. Your ears are used to detect rod knock, and the two phenomenon are completely seperate and different things.
Early warning. When you check your oil drag the wet end across a paper towel. Then use the dry part of it to soak up the oil- sort of dry saturate the oil and thin out the area that has the oil on it to where it's absorbed well. Then under good lighting have a look for metalic dust. If you see that- you have an issue. If you then pull the oil drain plug and see a build up of fine metalic material you have a component that is contaminating your oil - which is an indicator your bearings are either wearing from poor lubrication or damage. ( most plugs have a magnet on them but aluminum won't be affected)
My 2 stroke waverunner spun a rod bearing while idling the other day. It raised the piston so high that it bent the electrode on the spark plug 27 thousandths of an inch and then seized stranding me 1/2 mile from the shore with no one around.
Forgive my ignorance, but why not design rod bearings to be one circular piece instead of a upper & lower piece. Especially since these are not regular maintenance parts.
There are a few other causes of bearing issues namely the failure of the part itself due to a manufacturing defect and also incorrect assembly. Those will fail most likely in short order and not like those million mile engines that are still running strong.
We had a 3000 hr engine pick up a rod knock. We heard it right away. We fixed it right away. It ran for thousands of hours after that. We ran into the guy we sold it to, it ran a long time for him as well. We really don't know what caused it, we feel it was well maintained.
Excellent vid, thanks. I have a quick question: my Can-Am Outlander 800 is a V-Twin and share a journal; it starts great when cold, but the engine tightens up to nearly seizing when hot. I have heard that the rods are swelling from the heat, causing greater pressure against the journal walls and choking the engine. However, a machinist told me that is probably not the case, that it should seize when cold and then free-up when hot and suspects the pistons are the culprit. What do you think?
One big problem with main bearings spinning (apart from the obvious) is that once they move 1/4" or so, they block off their own oil flow and possibly the oil flow to the rod bearing journals. One sign sure sign of cam bearings going bad is inconsistent valve lash.. you check your valves, they're all good except on 2 neighboring cylinders they're .005" loose, that's a pretty good (er, bad) sign the cam is moving away from the valves
@@AdeptApe Guy I knew had really heavy valve springs in a performance 5.9 (Cam runs directly in the block on those except the front journal) and it wore the journals out.. for those applications they recommend putting bearings in all locations.. it was expensive learning. Otherwise, yeah, cam bearings are usually pretty durable, they don't get the loads the crank sees
It's a big enough job you don't usually do it as preventative maintenance, however, if you have to get into the bottom end anyhow (lets say replacing a piston/sleeve, you'd look at the condition it's in and maybe replace them all while you have the pan off
How do you diagnose a spun bearing in a 454? I have a 1973 FRONT WHEEL DRIVE (Think Toronado) GMC Motorhome. It looks daunting to remove the oil pan --which needs to happen to check my rod bearings and change them. How is it done?
everyone that makes bearings will make them in a couple sizes, usually standard, -.010", and -.020" are the most common, more than .020" it's usually recommended to replace the crank since you've ground through the hard part of it by then
@@Rx7man first of all thank you for replying. I'm looking for an oversized bushing for a spun balancer shaft bearing bore. I got a couple of quotes from a bearing company but I'm unsure on which particular material to purchase. 932 alloy or 954 alloy. Would you happen to be familiar with any of these? Please reply. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@awesomeluis I have no clue on the details of that... One guy on UA-cam based in Kentucky has a serious machine shop capable of doing line boring, etc, look up "bcbloc02"..
Hey Josh..! I was in an bad ass rear collision my car won’t start and everything is pushed up from the back to front I was in reverse going into drive when rear ends slam smack twice …! My car wasn’t never driving like this 19 acura tlx awd v6 How do I know if my crankshaft was affected due to me getting smashed I heard metal noise loud didn’t start knocking until the next day..! Never the less can I tow my car to ur business..! Plz Help me 😮💨😣
Very good explanation of spun bearings but you forgot to mention just plain low oil level as a factor. I see that the newer Ford engines don't have any locating tangs on the bearings at all.
+wysetech2000 I've never seen a bearing without a locating tab, except for cam bearings. How do they center the bearings? Is there a ridge or something to keep them aligned for installation?
Hi great explanation. I have an engine knock that comes in after the engine gets up to operating temp. Will a spun bearing knock be present from a cold start or could this be what my knock at operating temp is ?
there's a good chance it's a rod bearing, the oil gets thinner and doesn't take up as much space... all depends on how bad it is.. Hard to say more without knowing what engine or hearing it
This was very interesting. I am interested on your thoughts on the high failure rate of modern light duty small capacity high output engines like we have in almost all our new cars?
Great video. I was wonder if you could do video about the crankshaft in the 3408 with respect to the off-set rod journals? Or any other CAT engine that uses the same design. What is the purpose of off-set rod journals? Are the rods different lengths from one bank to the other? Are the deck heights different? Thanks!
Wait could you let me know if a spun rod bearing damages the cylinder walls? If I just need a new crank and rods I will be stoked. My closed deck block was very expensive and if I do not need new pistons and don’t have to have the cylinders remachined the block may be salvageable right?
How bad thing is to have timing belt failure and piston to valve contact. My car started to knock on cold starts after that, maybe 20-30 sec after start up and then it goes away. When warm there are not any extra sounds, should I get worried now or tomorrow?
Nice video. Question for a 4.0 jeep engine. I have more of a tick sounds like it's from the bottom end and it kinda knocks at low rpms easy on the gas but it really ticks when the engine doesn't have much load on it like if I lift off the accelerator to slow down. It's actually fairly quiet when the engine is under load at moderate rpms. Thoughts on what I'm probably dealing with? Oil pressure appears normal range for a 312k mile 4ohh
I put new oil in my Charger but apparently the previous owner didn't do shit as I have a spun rod bearing so that's great...just bought it about a month ago and the bearing just went out today
actually the 2.7L Chrysler V6 has an issue where the water pump will leak antifreeze into the crank case so that's probably why my shit is in the shop right now, antifreeze breaks down oil so I have a few things to fix
Hello brother hope everything its going well for you was cery helpfull, do you have any good advice for me im trying to rebuild my 4.7 HO v8jeep grand cherokee,i decided to check the rod knock taking down oil pan and check all the rod bearings only one was very bad almost welded to the connecting rod piston,that same got really bad and need a new one.
8:36 If that were true then when assembly oil is used before putting the crank in it would certainly seep behind the shell. Also every bearing you remove always has oil behind it. So I don't know about that.
Could you help explain what might cause my truck to overheat? It's an old 90s truck and doesn't have lots of engine gauges. My analysis of the issue right now is that it only overheats when the turbo boost kicks in. It's a diesel truck. The turbo doesn't have a wastegate. It's an older turbo unit without any fancy relief gates. I've changed the intercooler but that didn't help. Going uphill the exhaust glows red and temperature gauge rises instantly. It has no issues driving on the level. If you can give pointers please,,, thanks in advance
11:51 this what I think soon as the bearings move that little bit it's going to block off the oil feed from the galleries or whatever it is by blocking off that oil it's going to starve of oil and it's going to get better contact surface what the crank causing it to catch better
+Michael yaromich Well the rods get oil from the crank, so they can't block it off by moving, opposed to the mains which normally have oiling holes on the top of the bearing.
Was the engine ruined? :( *(Also, the guy thinking that the problem was electrical reminds me of the time that the transmission in my van got stuck in third gear, I originally suspected that it was the transmission control module that went bad, turns out the transmission had to be replaced.)*
Seeing a spin bearing as a mechanic is like hitting jackpot, but as an owner operator I imagine it must suck, great vids josh
I'm loving all these informational teaching videos! Just got through watching a video where a guy was telling people to put oil on the backside before installing, claiming the oil would squeeze out. I thought it sounded like bad advice. I rebuilt my first engine back in 1985 when I was 19 (a 455 Super Duty big block in a 78 Trans Am). I learned then to not lube the back side. Glad you confirmed this and explained the reasoning.
It's refreshing to hear someone actually call it an engine and not motor!
motor is the term used for electric motors. and engine for internal combustion engines.
in usa manily is engine, in UK is an old fashioning to call it motor, they are sinonims
technically anything that creates motion is a motor, its in the name, no matter what it uses as fuel, electricity, compressed air, diesel, gasoline, calling it a motor is as "politically correct" as calling it an engine and you can really only use the word engine carefully, cant call an electric motor an engine cause you would look like a dumbass. . .nobody has even been looked at funny for saying motor, at work we call everything a motor cause no matter what it runs on it does the same thing: spin
A motor is a machine that converts other forms of energy into mechanical energy and so imparts motion.
An engine is a motor that converts thermal energy to mechanical work.
wordnetweb.princeton.edu
In other words, an engine is a motor, but a motor is not necessarily an engine.
excellent, so they are in genus-species relationship
Your knowledge on these fantastic cat engines is way beyond your age your the only mechanic I would take the time to listen to flawless
I am French from Canada and with you I learned a lot of things in mechanics thanks to you I really understand better thank you
Hi! Your channel has inspired me to
think about truck fuel mileage. I am a retired Physics teacher so I
tried to look at some of the factors that affect truck fuel mileage.
If this does not seem real or of value to you, just ignore it, I had
fun anyway. I researched the internet and found truck rolling
resistance is 6 lbs per 1000 lbs of gross weight, diesel fuel
contains 155 million joules of energy per gallon, a semi truck
frontal area is 8.5 feet by 13.5 feet or 114.8 square feet or 10.6
square meters, the density of air is 1.2041 kg/cubic meter, the
efficiency of a turbocharged diesel truck engine can be as high as
45%, drive line efficiency is 92% , air drag coefficient is 0.96.
Lets assume our gross weight is 70,000 lbs so our rolling resistance
is 6 x 70 or 420 lbs. Air resistance is given by the formula ½ times
drag coefficient times air density times frontal area and times
relative wind speed squared. Lets assume there is no wind relative to
the earth so the truck speed becomes the relative wind speed. Let
our truck move at 58mph or 26 meters per second, our air drag becomes
1/2x.96x1.204x10.6x26 squared for 4141 Newtons or 931 lbs. Adding 420
lbs to 931 lbs gives us 1351 lbs. The work done by this force per
mile is the force times distance or 1351 lbs times 5280 feet or 7.13
million ft lbs per mile or 9.67million joules per mile. Fuel mileage
would then be 0.45 times 155 million joules / gallon divided by 9.67
millionJoules per mile or 7.21 miles per gallon. If our truck climbs
a 4 percent grade at 40 miles per hour the rolling resistance is
still 420 pounds, the air resistance drops to 441 pounds for a sum of
861 pounds. The work to do this per mile is 861 lbs times 5280 ft
for 4.55 million lbs foot of work or 6.16 million joules. Our truck
now needs to lift its weight 4 feet for every 100 feet it travels so
the lifting energy is 40,000 lbs times 4/100 times 5280 ft/mile or
8.45 million lbs foot per mile or 11.45 million joules per mile.
Adding gives us 17.6 million joules per mile. 0.45*155 million J per
gallon divided by 17.6 million J per mile gives us 3.96 miles per
gallon. I know there are a lot of factors but are the fuel mileage
numbers close?
+joe polen I would say you did a pretty good job there, as far as the numbers being close, they seem a little high for a truck with a 70,000 pound load. Most guys with Cat engines seem to get 4.5-6 mpg. Of course these are a little bit older engines in usually not the most aerodynamic trucks. I wish I would have taken a physics course in college now. It is practical engineering/science. There are guys that get double digit mileages out there called hypermilers. Not sure if you have heard of them, but by mostly becoming more aerodynamic and driving slower, they can see some real mileage gains. Not sure what other tricks they do.
I liked your comment a lot though, would you mind if I used it as part of a video?
Hi Thanks for the reply. Yes you can use this in your video. I thought it was interesting to look into some of the main physical factors about fuel mileage in large trucks.
I'm impressed, I haven't thought about computational physics in a long time, and you got me there at 4am when I was doing research on how to fix my significant other's car lol.
The only thing I could possibly add would be your missing out on wear on the engine by assuming the engine efficiency. If your pulling data for that online, those numbers are also probably for "lab like conditions" of the engine.
Also it would be important that your numbers only represent the M/G at those specific times, and isn't an average over a period of time, which would be a little more accurate. Although even any average would be subject to the route taken, the user's driving habits, blah blah blah. I think for a lot of your average joes out there it can be easy to forget to think about where you numbers, and data come from, and how that could affect things.
But thank you +joe polen, I enjoyed the distraction, and appreciate anyone that has an interest and understanding of physics.
From a former physics student at WKU, unfortunately I had to stop short of my bachelors, but I still love the field, and am resolute to finish that degree someday.
When everything is working as well as expected, what effects mileage on any vehicle is the resistance of air. At speeds under 48 mph the air resistance is fairly light and is a small factor. However the amount of energy for maintaining each mph above 48 mph goes up progressively. Back in the 1970's the speed limit was reduced to 55 mph for fuel conservation. So if you are in a situation where time is not the issue but range is 45/48 mph will give you the most range from a tank of fuel. You can expect about 10 more miles per gallon if you slow down to 45/48 mph from 70 mph in a passenger car. Slowing down to 55 mph from 70 will be about half that at around 5 more mpg.
Just something to conciser when pressing on to the next exit for a fuel stop. My low fuel warning comes on when down to 2 gallons. Slowing down to 45/48 from 70 will get me 20 more miles to the next fuel stop or slowing to 55 will get me 10 more miles. Slowing down to say 40 or even slower will not get you any more significant range. By Law the lowest MINIMUM speed on the interstate system is 45 mph the state of Florida is 50 mph. The safety risks are high traveling on the interstate at 45 mph and should be considered.
It is very significant to gain 160 more miles from one 16 gallon tank of fuel, at the cost of reducing speed by 25 mph. Increasing range from approximately 432 to 592 miles, 37% increase in range at a cost of 35.7% increase in time. The time used is 6 hour 10 min when travel speed is 70 mph to empty at 432 miles. Traveling at 48 mph to the same distance of 432 miles is 9 hours even with 4.3 gallons still in the tank (that is a 1/4+ tank) costing 2 hours 50 min. Going the maximum distance of 592 miles at 48 mph would take 12 hours 20 min, or 8 hours 27 min plus the fuel stop at 70 mph. Just from reducing speed from 70 mph you could increase your fuel economy by 37% at 45/48 mph, 30% at 50 mph, 25% at 55 mph, 19% at 60 mph, and 11% at 65 mph.
These calculations are what I have achieved with my 2007 Mustang GT 4.6L approximately 27 mpg at 70 mph and 37 mpg at 45 mph. The Mustang is fairly aerodynamic and it still suffers from wind resistance. I have not driven a big rig loaded to 70,000 pounds to know if they could get better or worst than 37% increase in range by reducing speed. As a safety consideration the heavy loaded trailers will decrease the hazard of jack-knifing when traveling slower. The transportation company "Swift" has speed limiters governing their speed to save money on fuel and reduce accidents. Effective November 27th, 2017, Swift company trucks went from 60 mph on the pedal and 62 mph on cruise, to 63 on the pedal and 65 on cruise. Time is money, so even Swift has nudged it up a tad but still saving 10% or more that the other companies that run at 70 mph or faster.
extremely helpful. Spun a crank bearing on a 3126b last week after coming out of reputable shop and running for only 183 miles with 90k on motor and good maintenance. Coincidence, destiny i don't know but this helped me understand what i'm dealing with. Thanks
Great video! Shocked I didn’t hear him mention oil starvation. You can do normal maintenance and change oil regularly every 3k miles but still spin a bearing. In my case at 148k miles my engine was burning oil worse than I knew. Didn’t leak oil at all. Saw oil pressure light come on, checked oil and no oil registering on the stick. Ticking started soon after and then a few months later came the rod knock. Pulled engine and confirmed spun rod bearing on cylinder #1. Most engines will start burning some oil after 100k. I suggest you regularly check your oil level even if you know your oil should be good for another 2k miles.
Same with my Sonata, burned 5 quartz of oil in less than 2 months and then knocking came
@@AmelFLoridame today
I spun a bearing on a road trip almost 40 years ago and shot a piston out of the oil pan. Luckily my block didn't have damage. Ever since, I check oil once a week and when on road trips in the RV, I'm checking it daily.
Luckily no losses in this dept. In March '16, I had engine inframed due to failed rings. Then in July '16, I had rod and main bearings replaced. Having well in excess of one-million miles, I hadn't noticed just how low the oil pressure had become. After the bearings replacement, oil pressure jumped from 40-psi to 62-psi. In 2017, I had the bull-gear and other gears on front of engine replaced. This year 2018, I'm going to have six-pack injector replacement and see if it's possible to get a new high performance camshaft installed. I've spent a lot of money to ensure my engine lasts for another million or two miles because I like this particular engine and the truck it's installed in and I want to get all the life out of them as I can without the detrimental issues described in this video. I'm very pro-active when it comes to maintenance including oil changes at every 15,000-miles religiously.
4 years late, but thats fucked. 15000 miles for oil changes? Americans are absolutely clueless when it comes to maintenance lol 24000kms for an oil change? yikes. 10k kms at most for a change.
@@NescaffeOne - 15,000 miles for a 15-litre diesel. Only 5,000 miles for a gasoline car engine on synthetic oil. Most trucking companies today operate on a 20,000-30,000 mile oil change interval. Not to blow your mind but with oil centrifuges, heavy duty diesels can go 100,000 miles between oil changes. The centrifuges remove fine metal particles and soot which keeps oil cleaner longer. Semi-trucks can attain 100,000 miles every 10-12 months. With today's high tech fuel injectors running at 35,000 psi pressure, fuel is better atomized in the cylinder producing less exhaust gases and soot getting passed the piston rings which keeps engine oil cleaner than in older diesels. The huge reduction of sulfur in today's diesel fuel refinement also lends to cleaner engines.
@@kingjames8283 oh diesel! I thought you were originally talking about gasoline engines! Hahah my bad man! I almost had a heart attack. (Australian) so seeing over 20,000 kms for oil change I was like BROOOO ;( hahah. But I’ll take your word for semis, I have no experience with bigger diesels :)
The best explanation I heard. Currently dealing with main bearing damages to the crank, it’s painful. Thanks
thanks for the education ! I believe my 94 corvette LT 1 spun a rod bearing. sounds like nuts and bolts in a tin can. I'm devastated!! ALWAYS on point with regular maintenance. 58K miles. oil pressure remained normal at idle and driving. just started making noise after engine warmed up.
Oh man, thats unfortunate. I feel your pain. These are really quite reliable engines, if not screwed around with. I have a 94 Trans Am with the LT1 engine, I bought new . It has 338.000 miles on it now. Engine never been touched, even the timing chain is original. I've done 3000 mile oil changes since new, just used regular Castrol GTX in it. I cant understand what could cause your issues at such low mileage. Good luck.
I know someone that had the same issue. They caught it fast and replaced the bearing. It ran for another 20k until some idiot rear ended the car at a stop light. (Both cars were completely totaled)
Great music. Your videos always make me want to do an oil change.
Legit. Your videos are worth more than Gold. Easy to listen to. Abundance of info. For really
I worked as a Toyota tech in the 90s. The 1-HDT engine had an issue with rod bearings but would usually give no warning before throwing the rod out of the block.
🤣😂🤣
Very well explained"!! My engine just started the dreaded rod knock ! 4.3 liter v6 astro van and im just gonna try to replace the rod bearings since it just started ! Hopefully i caught it befor it damaged anything else
im trying to do a 4.3 v6 vortex in a s10, any tips?
@@jordanbelknap61 do what to it?
@@deerhunter8533 im trying to do a full rebuild but any kind of advice would be great
Very cool!! You could not have explained that any better. Thanks for the info
Thank you Post Malone!
aarunt1 😂😂 he do looks like post Malone
You qlqwe we
ae
😂😂😂
Second cousin to both Malone and Donut Operator, lotta fame in that blood!
What an informative video! Thank you! (And, sadly, not only did I spin that main bearing, but it was pretty much confetti when the mechanic opened things up.)
Great video as always. If I were to get bad news you’d be the Diesel Dr. I’d want to give it to me. However, now I’m scared to start my truck in the morning lol
Excellent very well explained
Good video
Normally when the main bearings get worn you hear a rumble when engine is ticking over and the noise
increases as the engine is speeded up this is with no load on engine, it is even worse when underload
This is highly informative! Thank you for spending the time!
Thanks for sharing your video. Always appreciate Knowledge Based Video with visual examples. Would like to see the other damaged components, i.e., Piston Rods, Thrust Bearings, Damaged Bent Valves, Broken Blocks, Cams, etc..
Awesome info, I've been looking for a video that might explain a huge metal flake I removed out of an oil pan. Once I removed the oil pan I was able to get a look at all the connecting rods, the bottom of the pistons, combustion chambers And anything else in that area that might explain the cause of the seizing. I recently bought a 2015 f250 super duty for $1,000. They said the engine was seized and it was not worth them fixing it. I had never taken apart a vehicle before and thought it could be a fun learning project. I am a day or so away from removing the engine and transmission together and putting it on an engine stand to disassemble it. I plan on rebuilding the engine completely No matter how much time or money it cost. Anyways the flake I removed from the oil pan was one of three I noticed when I looked under the block after removing the oil pan. I'm pretty sure would cost this failure was a damaged gasket that clogged the oil return which reduced oil flow And the added friction spun crankshaft bearings almost completely out. They look like metal lays potato chips.
So what did you find? You get it going again?
@@Rx7man I found that those flakes were the main journal bearings and it did not seem that bad but I was going to bring the crankshaft in the cylinder head to a machine shop and needed to replace all the bearings some seals for the crankshaft and a few other items. It was going to cost probably right over $1,000. But then I came across a brand new short block crate motor from Ford for $1,700. I kept the old one and paid the $500 core fee and plan on either rebuilding the old one for a spare dropping motor or to someone else for more than the $500. So the truck is running and at the moment I'm in the process of replacing axle, and pinion bearings while I wait for my complete suspension lift to be shipped from the manufacturer which because of Corona virus is taking away too long. Anyways thanks for asking it's been a pretty fun project.
@@brucebanner5860 I'm doing a diff in an old Dodge right now too.. in my case the spider gears blew up. Yep, the rona is really breaking the supply chain
Good to hear an update, sounds like you got a decent truck for a good price (even though I love mocking fords)
@@Rx7man funny how the way you think of something can change with a slightly different perspective.
I've made a few mods to this truck that make it better.
@@brucebanner5860 I waited 8 months for a head gasket... thankfully it wasn't something I needed, I just like having one in stock.. I'm remote, so keeping stock on basic essentials is a good idea
My BMW X5M with 49,000 miles unfortunately had a rod bearing spun. The oil was changed religiously every 5,000 miles & I drove like a gentleman. Dealer wants $36,000 for a new engine & will not offer any assistance. Decided to have it rebuilt at a fraction of what the “stealer-ship” wants. The rebuilder, who used to work for BMW, said that they designed the bearings to be too tight & this is a common issue with low mile BMW’s
Wow, and bmw is a strong brand, but I guess not like old quality anymore...
I had a spin bearing in my 1973 MGB. NO FUN! It was actually less expensive and less difficult to buy a new engine or in my case a restored engine.
Excellent video, I like how you talked slow pace more explaining things.
I'm wiser having listened to your great explanation, thanks for posting.
Hey Josh, wanted to stop by and thank you for your time yesterday. It was great meeting you and I enjoyed the interview. I hope I get a chance to work with you,
thanks Oscar.
+O. Sanchez Hi Oscar, it was a pleasure meeting you and being in on the interview. I think you did well and were very honest. It is up to the Polo shirt wearers now. Hopefully we will know soon.
Adept Ape I hear ya, now it's just up to them
Another cause could be slacked nuts on connecting rod big end bearing (too low pressure on press or too low fastening torque) , lack of split pins or reusing old ones during overhaul. Sometimes it can score cylinder liners and pistons as well or just damage the rings. Not sure about valve collision - probably in extreme situations. In the end you'll need to do major overhaul on the engine - dismantle, clean, measure, replace parts.
My son's engine is making a horrible mechanical sounds. Per your video, looks like it might have a bad bearings or worse "( Will be removing the eingine for a thorough inspection...Thanks for the very informative video...
Very good video as always
I have to take my 3406e to someone to check that bearings...
I have 3 years with this truck and never had it checked...
Here in my country is difficult to find a good CAT mechanic...
What country is that? How many miles on that 3406Eengine? If you have practiced good preventive maintenance, it is not necessary to check the bearings as it was in the "old" days.
Chad Jessup
I live in Costa Rica,that's in between Panamá and Nicaragua...
I have this truck since some guy brought it here in 2014
I don't know how many miles it has on it and nobody has touched the engine or something before...
I use DELO 400 15W/40
My truck is a 1999 KW T2000
CAT 3406e 1LW
As long u got good oil pressure it should be fine
@@jcjc2593 lot's of hills & mountains out there I would check them
Hello from Houston Texas ✌️
EXTREMELY well explained!! Well done!!
Very direct and not suger coated! Alas like the Funeral March music when you're describing this gloomy stuff.....
8:55 I really think that the bearing journal is the surface on the crankshaft (or camshaft) which the bearing rides against. Bearing housing is something that holds the bearing in place.
I have a 2000 Honda Civic, it had a knock at startup but went away for while but you could hear it as I was driving (I'm to blame because drove it with low oil). I got it sent to a shop and had the crank plastic gauged and replaced the bearings. However, I could still hear a knock (I don't know why I didn't take it back), then a couple days later it ends up knocking again and I struggled getting home barely getting to 20mph. I took it to the shop, they said I need a new crank, later on then said a new engine. Now I have a block, crank, head, and oil pan all for $150 planning to rebuild it but don't know if I really want to anymore.
Thank you for your service.
Your in my brother Eddie's World , runn'n with the Big Rigs.! Why are Cats Cam Bearings less likely to fail.?
Thank you, and Keep Truck'n.
Rod Cap! Too much terminology ah ha.
Good Job. Or some may say 'Rod end cap'. Keep up the Good work, and nice Doggie. :-)
I have a Nissan 240sx and my rod started knocking at higher speed. So thank you for this information. I think I rather get a whole new engine 🤔
What did you do?
Nice
Okay, it's a Saturday night, Summer season, loads of women down Puerto Banus (I live in Marbella/Southern Spain) and I have just watched Adept Ape's channel on 'Spun Bearings'....
'Hell YEAH!!!'
+Malcolm Young You are a real man. Who needs fun when you have Diesel Engines.
When do you recommend doing the rods and mains in a engine? Also when should I do my overhead. My engine was rebuilt in late 2015
Look in maintenance specs for said engine it will say when
Can I install the standard size bearing towel if the sound comes from the down side of the engine only ?
Good explanation, helpful.. I like also that you are an animal lover.. I have two pet dairy goats which are my world away from work.
I have a Chevy 1996 5.7L 350 Sb is knocking noise. I took the oil pan out and found metal residual. I was told I need a new engine. The engine turn on and drives. Any advice please. Thanks
Of as soon as you said hit the valve my heart dropped. I knew I would need a new short block but I seriously would be sad if my new heads were destroyed
I have an 08 GMC 4.2 with a spun bearing and bearing damage on the Piston rods I changed the rode bearings probably one week after the knocking sound just dropped the front end and the oil pan and only change the piston rod bearings on the crankshaft it's been 6 months now still no problem I know it's a cheaper fix I did not pull the crankshaft or anyting but I was looking basically for 6 months to a year out of the engine, but still like I said six months and it's still no sound running fine I did use break in Lube when putting the rod bearings back together and a thicker oil.
@bandr when I remove the oil pan I left two bolts in it poured diesel fuel in the top of the engine let it drain down and I only cleaned the bottom part of the engine and when I poured oil and then I used a quart and a half and let it drain down afterwards to clean and discarted, just by doing that you can see what debris you can out of the engine. so I clean the bottom part of the engine and clean the oil pan also I sanded down the aluminum oil pan and st the lowest part i JB welded a magnet on the inside and on the outside of the oil pan. So the magnet will pick up the rest of debris that I don't get and when I remove the oil pan to begin with there was a lot of little shreds of metal.
@Dustin Collins I had it for over 2 years at 248000 miles I figured it was time to get another one I sold it. Believe it or not I bought another 2008 with a 123000 miles. Still have it today Change my oil every 30000 miles with high mileage shell rotating Marvel mystery oil & Lucas every other time. 7 quarts. just kind of watching keep it full every month or 2.
Thanks for the good explanation! Very detailed & informative.
Nice explanation , I have a question, when you said it may caused by a wrong timing for combustion, where it will affect on, is it on the Journal of crankshaft or on the Journal of the connecting rod Journal ?
Rod journals
After watching this video, I shed a small tear.
I spun a rod bearing in my 5.0 coyote. Do not the know the full extent of the damage, yet. The pony is going into the shop next week and will get a answer fully. Good bye to lots of money
cheap oil
I like your explanations but if you have the time section off a piece of crank shaft, get a con rod and a main bearing journal to help further what
you are describing.
Mains supply oil to rods, so a spun main will also take a rod with it, since the oil hole in the upper bearing half will be out of alignment with the oil hole.
Zachary Jones if you don't stop running the engine yes it could.
Thank you ! I was watching an LS video and he's changing the bearings, and I have no idea what they do or purpose they serve. EDIT : You have a Noah vibe going from Alaskan Bush People.
Ugg. I didn't spin a bearing, but I had a rod knock bad enough for the knock sensor to shut it down. 2006 Chrysler Pacifica 3.5. Do rod bearings spin as well? Or is that just mains? I'm going to make a video as well, you've inspired me. I'm going to try to get the scratches out with the shoelace trick. They are just barely deep enough to feel with a fingernail. First I'm going to go get a ballpoint micrometer to see if the gouges raised the tolerance too much. My modified version of the shoelace trick is to put double sided tape on a deep socket, tie it in a knot, then it works like a belt sander. I'm breaking my rule today and going to 220 grit first. Shouldn't polish more than 600 because the tiny scratches hold oil. I know it's wrong. But I need to get on the road. Found a 4.0 to rebuild correctly. I just need to squeeze a few thousand miles. Thanks for posting.
Adam Cotter yes they can. Did you get it fixed?
The knock sensor has nothing to do with detecting, stopping, or shutting down rod knock.
The knock sensor detects spark knock, not rod knock. Your ears are used to detect rod knock, and the two phenomenon are completely seperate and different things.
Early warning.
When you check your oil drag the wet end across a paper towel.
Then use the dry part of it to soak up the oil- sort of dry saturate the oil and thin out the area that has the oil on it to where it's absorbed well.
Then under good lighting have a look for metalic dust. If you see that- you have an issue.
If you then pull the oil drain plug and see a build up of fine metalic material you have a component that is contaminating your oil - which is an indicator your bearings are either wearing from poor lubrication or damage. ( most plugs have a magnet on them but aluminum won't be affected)
Thanks for the well detailed video!
Very well explained. Good video. Thumbs up.
Great info! Is it recommended to replace bearings at a certain mileage?
My 2 stroke waverunner spun a rod bearing while idling the other day. It raised the piston so high that it bent the electrode on the spark plug 27 thousandths of an inch and then seized stranding me 1/2 mile from the shore with no one around.
Jamie Forrester did you swim back?
Forgive my ignorance, but why not design rod bearings to be one circular piece instead of a upper & lower piece. Especially since these are not regular maintenance parts.
There are a few other causes of bearing issues namely the failure of the part itself due to a manufacturing defect and also incorrect assembly. Those will fail most likely in short order and not like those million mile engines that are still running strong.
Very informative, thanks for the explanation.
We had a 3000 hr engine pick up a rod knock.
We heard it right away. We fixed it right away.
It ran for thousands of hours after that.
We ran into the guy we sold it to, it ran a long time for him as well.
We really don't know what caused it, we feel it was well maintained.
I've heard over revving the engine can cause the rod bearing cap bolts to stretch resulting in play and a spun bearing.
Excellent vid, thanks. I have a quick question: my Can-Am Outlander 800 is a V-Twin and share a journal; it starts great when cold, but the engine tightens up to nearly seizing when hot. I have heard that the rods are swelling from the heat, causing greater pressure against the journal walls and choking the engine. However, a machinist told me that is probably not the case, that it should seize when cold and then free-up when hot and suspects the pistons are the culprit.
What do you think?
Machinist is right cold contrast heat expands
Have you checked the cooling system? If the engine is getting that hot it could be a cooling issue.
This was a really informative video, I learnt a lot :)
Thanks for the effort!
One big problem with main bearings spinning (apart from the obvious) is that once they move 1/4" or so, they block off their own oil flow and possibly the oil flow to the rod bearing journals.
One sign sure sign of cam bearings going bad is inconsistent valve lash.. you check your valves, they're all good except on 2 neighboring cylinders they're .005" loose, that's a pretty good (er, bad) sign the cam is moving away from the valves
Interesting tip with the Cam bearings, Cat engines almost never have Cam bearing issues, at least on any of the 1990+ engines.
@@AdeptApe Guy I knew had really heavy valve springs in a performance 5.9 (Cam runs directly in the block on those except the front journal) and it wore the journals out.. for those applications they recommend putting bearings in all locations.. it was expensive learning.
Otherwise, yeah, cam bearings are usually pretty durable, they don't get the loads the crank sees
Is there a given amount of hours/miles that you should replace rods and mains just as preventative maintenance?
It's a big enough job you don't usually do it as preventative maintenance, however, if you have to get into the bottom end anyhow (lets say replacing a piston/sleeve, you'd look at the condition it's in and maybe replace them all while you have the pan off
Great work as always
+Kerry Gleeson Thank you.
Great video❗️
How do you diagnose a spun bearing in a 454? I have a 1973 FRONT WHEEL DRIVE (Think Toronado) GMC Motorhome. It looks daunting to remove the oil pan --which needs to happen to check my rod bearings and change them. How is it done?
Excellent presentation thank you very much
Good info Ape, I'll have to keep that in mind and thank you for the video also sir!!!
+Gary ClarkII Knowledge is power, feel the power!
Where would one be able to find oversized bearings? Thanks!
everyone that makes bearings will make them in a couple sizes, usually standard, -.010", and -.020" are the most common, more than .020" it's usually recommended to replace the crank since you've ground through the hard part of it by then
@@Rx7man first of all thank you for replying. I'm looking for an oversized bushing for a spun balancer shaft bearing bore. I got a couple of quotes from a bearing company but I'm unsure on which particular material to purchase. 932 alloy or 954 alloy. Would you happen to be familiar with any of these? Please reply. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@awesomeluis I have no clue on the details of that... One guy on UA-cam based in Kentucky has a serious machine shop capable of doing line boring, etc, look up "bcbloc02"..
Hey Josh..! I was in an bad ass rear collision my car won’t start and everything is pushed up from the back to front I was in reverse going into drive when rear ends slam smack twice …! My car wasn’t never driving like this 19 acura tlx awd v6 How do I know if my crankshaft was affected due to me getting smashed I heard metal noise loud didn’t start knocking until the next day..! Never the less can I tow my car to ur business..! Plz Help me 😮💨😣
it wrong to put oil in bearing when flexing it?
Would a worn main bearing cause crankshaft wobble
Very good explanation of spun bearings but you forgot to mention just plain low oil level as a factor. I see that the newer Ford engines don't have any locating tangs on the bearings at all.
+wysetech2000 I've never seen a bearing without a locating tab, except for cam bearings. How do they center the bearings? Is there a ridge or something to keep them aligned for installation?
i have never seen one but the new Ford 6.7 Powerstroke doesn't have locating tangs. There may be others as well.
Cummins dont have tabs. A washer is mounted between the main journal caps. The bearings are notched for the washer.
after i replaced one baring i still heard a little nock while decelerating is this bad and what is the breaking in period for the baring?
Hi buddy Great video, are main bearings re usable?
Hi great explanation. I have an engine knock that comes in after the engine gets up to operating temp. Will a spun bearing knock be present from a cold start or could this be what my knock at operating temp is ?
there's a good chance it's a rod bearing, the oil gets thinner and doesn't take up as much space... all depends on how bad it is.. Hard to say more without knowing what engine or hearing it
Excellent as always !
+frankycomeau Thank you.
Very nice informative and cool explaination,.
This was very interesting. I am interested on your thoughts on the high failure rate of modern light duty small capacity high output engines like we have in almost all our new cars?
Might have to do with trying to make a 4 cylinder do the work of a 6 cylinder.
What is good service intervals for a 1million+ mile engine ?
Great video !
I have 1.3 million on a Cummins isx...changing oil every 25000 miles
Great video. I was wonder if you could do video about the crankshaft in the 3408 with respect to the off-set rod journals? Or any other CAT engine that uses the same design. What is the purpose of off-set rod journals? Are the rods different lengths from one bank to the other? Are the deck heights different?
Thanks!
Great video, like your presentation on this and others. Thanks!
Thank you for making this video!!
Thanks for watching it.
very nice job, and thanks for explaining what happens.
Wait could you let me know if a spun rod bearing damages the cylinder walls? If I just need a new crank and rods I will be stoked. My closed deck block was very expensive and if I do not need new pistons and don’t have to have the cylinders remachined the block may be salvageable right?
Awesome video as usual. I look forward to your videos
+Mark Armstrong Thank you.
Thanks for video
How bad thing is to have timing belt failure and piston to valve contact. My car started to knock on cold starts after that, maybe 20-30 sec after start up and then it goes away. When warm there are not any extra sounds, should I get worried now or tomorrow?
Nice video. Question for a 4.0 jeep engine. I have more of a tick sounds like it's from the bottom end and it kinda knocks at low rpms easy on the gas but it really ticks when the engine doesn't have much load on it like if I lift off the accelerator to slow down. It's actually fairly quiet when the engine is under load at moderate rpms. Thoughts on what I'm probably dealing with? Oil pressure appears normal range for a 312k mile 4ohh
spun rod bearing sir. get it fixed soon before it shoots thru the block and your at more trouble
I put new oil in my Charger but apparently the previous owner didn't do shit as I have a spun rod bearing so that's great...just bought it about a month ago and the bearing just went out today
actually the 2.7L Chrysler V6 has an issue where the water pump will leak antifreeze into the crank case so that's probably why my shit is in the shop right now, antifreeze breaks down oil so I have a few things to fix
Same happened with me, bought a toyota allion and the previous owner was a shithead never had an oil change
Repairing it is more costly than getting another slim engine
That’s why you don’t buy an FCA piece of shit.
*E60 M5 owners have entered the chat*
And Subaru EJs
@@tomasnokechtesledger1786 FA’s take the crown
Hello brother hope everything its going well for you was cery helpfull, do you have any good advice for me im trying to rebuild my 4.7 HO v8jeep grand cherokee,i decided to check the rod knock taking down oil pan and check all the rod bearings only one was very bad almost welded to the connecting rod piston,that same got really bad and need a new one.
Excellent explanation Sir ..
Awesome vid...thanks for the time to share
8:36 If that were true then when assembly oil is used before putting the crank in it would certainly seep behind the shell. Also every bearing you remove always has oil behind it. So I don't know about that.
Could you help explain what might cause my truck to overheat? It's an old 90s truck and doesn't have lots of engine gauges. My analysis of the issue right now is that it only overheats when the turbo boost kicks in. It's a diesel truck. The turbo doesn't have a wastegate. It's an older turbo unit without any fancy relief gates. I've changed the intercooler but that didn't help. Going uphill the exhaust glows red and temperature gauge rises instantly. It has no issues driving on the level. If you can give pointers please,,, thanks in advance
11:51 this what I think soon as the bearings move that little bit it's going to block off the oil feed from the galleries or whatever it is by blocking off that oil it's going to starve of oil and it's going to get better contact surface what the crank causing it to catch better
+Michael yaromich Well the rods get oil from the crank, so they can't block it off by moving, opposed to the mains which normally have oiling holes on the top of the bearing.
I have a tech question. Can a spun connecting rod bearing also cause a miss fire do to less travel is the rod and piston reducing compression ratio
Was the engine ruined? :( *(Also, the guy thinking that the problem was electrical reminds me of the time that the transmission in my van got stuck in third gear, I originally suspected that it was the transmission control module that went bad, turns out the transmission had to be replaced.)*