With these parents, these children have a guaranteed future as professionals in the world of navigation. They are getting great lessons on how things should be done at an early age, so all of that will be natural to them when they grow up. And that added to the fact that they have where to inherit talent from both parents.
What children? They are apprentices learning the trade of sailing and maintaining a sailboat. I wish I had this chance 70 years ago when I was their age.Well done young men! :¬) Webhead USA
blasted through most of tech stuff on the channel, big fan of your work, so cool it may have been asked before but why is your mast not painted? i heard that carbon expoxy equipment suffers greatly from the uv. i dont know shit sp if you would be so kind to explain that would be awesome
Shayne probably knows more than me, but I do love my 5mm ply backbone that runs from the bow to the stern and is bonded to the cabin sole and the hull centreline. It means the hull is incredibly stiff and strong all along its length. I can jack it anywhere on the centreline. If I was you I would install a central backbone that attaches to the cabin soles and bulkheads to sort out any problems. Also I don't have any "non structural" bulkheads, I am amazed that there are boats out there with no tabbing or good coving on bulkheads. My cat can sit on the bottom no worries (apart from rocks) as the hulls are so nicely designed structurally. 38ft strip cedar Chamberlin 4000kg daggerboard cat I built 24 years ago. It seems you keep on digging up problems, time to change boats?
You said that it is polyester on the inside where the crack occurred. It seems like the outside is epoxy and Kevlar. Am I hearing this right? We removed a layer of Kevlar from the very bottom and have found epoxy on the outside side with some exception. We found polyester on the stern. All of this is external. Is the inside polyester?
There is no kevlar on Paikea apart from the bit laminated to the chainplate bulkhead which we have since replaced. Paikea hulls are all polyester/fibreglass. In places where Shayne has used carbon fibre in repairs we have used the stronger epoxy resin. In the situation of the crack in the hull , it was not necessary to use anything stronger than the polyester resin and fibreglass db. Shayne made a large overlap to ensure a good bond to the surface.
Nice informative video. Was this hull put together in 2 pieces along that crack line? You think it was chocked wrong causing the problem. Good luck and I’ll be waiting for the next video to watch the transformation. Cheers
The hull was made in a female mold so it is all one piece. The damage came from bad decisions made in the yard when someone put the blocks in the wrong spot 😕
Given the shrinkage with new polyester and the weak bond with old polyester I am wondering why (learning question) you didn’t use epoxy to effect the repair ? I have always thought that the mechanical adhesion with epoxy is far stronger than the bond between new and old polyester ? Shitty job though both that and the hulls (which I have done) and it is a shit job
Good question. Polyester is more than sufficient for use in this area and it is the appropriate choice in material because the rest of the boat is constructed this way. We addressed the weaker bonding issue by ensuring the fibreglass repair overlap is relatively large. The repair covers the damaged area and then is lamaninated onto the surrounding hull which extends quite a way out from the damage. The extra bonding surface provides plenty of bonding area for the new laminate to adhere to. The shrinkage factor is not enough of a problem to affect a thin repair like this one.
You should use at least vinylester, or epoxy. Your logic around the polyester is not correct. Polyester is the worst at mechanical bond, especially on older substrates. Cloth choices were fine, but resin was a bad choice. Hope it holds, but its not my boat.
Polyester is more than sufficient for use in this area and it is the appropriate choice in material because the rest of the boat is constructed this way. We addressed the weaker bonding issue by ensuring the fibreglass repair overlap is relatively large. The repair covers the damaged area and then is lamaninated onto the surrounding hull which extends quite a way out from the damage. The extra bonding surface provides plenty of bonding area for the new laminate to adhere to. The shrinkage factor is not enough of a problem to affect a thin repair like this one.
With these parents, these children have a guaranteed future as professionals in the world of navigation. They are getting great lessons on how things should be done at an early age, so all of that will be natural to them when they grow up. And that added to the fact that they have where to inherit talent from both parents.
What children? They are apprentices learning the trade of sailing and maintaining a sailboat. I wish I had this chance 70 years ago when I was their age.Well done young men! :¬) Webhead USA
blasted through most of tech stuff on the channel, big fan of your work, so cool
it may have been asked before but why is your mast not painted? i heard that carbon expoxy equipment suffers greatly from the uv.
i dont know shit sp if you would be so kind to explain that would be awesome
that's a decent crack in the hull
Shayne probably knows more than me, but I do love my 5mm ply backbone that runs from the bow to the stern and is bonded to the cabin sole and the hull centreline. It means the hull is incredibly stiff and strong all along its length. I can jack it anywhere on the centreline. If I was you I would install a central backbone that attaches to the cabin soles and bulkheads to sort out any problems. Also I don't have any "non structural" bulkheads, I am amazed that there are boats out there with no tabbing or good coving on bulkheads. My cat can sit on the bottom no worries (apart from rocks) as the hulls are so nicely designed structurally. 38ft strip cedar Chamberlin 4000kg daggerboard cat I built 24 years ago. It seems you keep on digging up problems, time to change boats?
You said that it is polyester on the inside where the crack occurred. It seems like the outside is epoxy and Kevlar. Am I hearing this right? We removed a layer of Kevlar from the very bottom and have found epoxy on the outside side with some exception. We found polyester on the stern. All of this is external. Is the inside polyester?
There is no kevlar on Paikea apart from the bit laminated to the chainplate bulkhead which we have since replaced. Paikea hulls are all polyester/fibreglass. In places where Shayne has used carbon fibre in repairs we have used the stronger epoxy resin. In the situation of the crack in the hull , it was not necessary to use anything stronger than the polyester resin and fibreglass db. Shayne made a large overlap to ensure a good bond to the surface.
Cheers for the video
Nice informative video. Was this hull put together in 2 pieces along that crack line? You think it was chocked wrong causing the problem. Good luck and I’ll be waiting for the next video to watch the transformation. Cheers
The hull was made in a female mold so it is all one piece. The damage came from bad decisions made in the yard when someone put the blocks in the wrong spot 😕
Composite floors are much better than compostable floors like the one you removed.
Is that a black eye at 11:13 ? Take care.
Given the shrinkage with new polyester and the weak bond with old polyester I am wondering why (learning question) you didn’t use epoxy to effect the repair ? I have always thought that the mechanical adhesion with epoxy is far stronger than the bond between new and old polyester ? Shitty job though both that and the hulls (which I have done) and it is a shit job
Good question. Polyester is more than sufficient for use in this area and it is the appropriate choice in material because the rest of the boat is constructed this way. We addressed the weaker bonding issue by ensuring the fibreglass repair overlap is relatively large. The repair covers the damaged area and then is lamaninated onto the surrounding hull which extends quite a way out from the damage. The extra bonding surface provides plenty of bonding area for the new laminate to adhere to. The shrinkage factor is not enough of a problem to affect a thin repair like this one.
You should use at least vinylester, or epoxy. Your logic around the polyester is not correct. Polyester is the worst at mechanical bond, especially on older substrates. Cloth choices were fine, but resin was a bad choice. Hope it holds, but its not my boat.
Polyester is more than sufficient for use in this area and it is the appropriate choice in material because the rest of the boat is constructed this way. We addressed the weaker bonding issue by ensuring the fibreglass repair overlap is relatively large. The repair covers the damaged area and then is lamaninated onto the surrounding hull which extends quite a way out from the damage. The extra bonding surface provides plenty of bonding area for the new laminate to adhere to. The shrinkage factor is not enough of a problem to affect a thin repair like this one.