Denso Alternator on Amazon - amzn.to/3FnTqvp Cheaper Alternator on Amazon - amzn.to/3DrLw3x Good option on Ebay - ebay.us/CeN9Y6 eManual Repair Manuals for Any Vehicle - shrsl.com/43l4o Like and subscribe for new weekly videos! Thanks for watching!
Great explainations on everything. Having never changed one of these before, watching this gave me the confidence to do it myself.. took me twice as long, and I bled a little, and had to phone a friend.. but it saved me 2 days and $800!
Another job done on my IS 350C thanks to this video. I had to watch it in conjunction with another video to get the full picture. This is perhaps the most annoying repair I've done thanks to those hard to reach nuts and clips. About 5-6 hours total, including time spent having to go shopping for long extention bars. Someone else commented on a left-handed back-reach for that nut in the far back, this tip helped a lot. You gotta take off your gloves and feel it with your fingers. I bought the mirror that he used in the video, thinking it was a stupid purchase, but I ended up using it a lot. Another tip I would give is that when you finally get the new alternator in place after dragging your balls through a mile of broken glass, don't be tempted to screw in all the secondary nuts. I made the mistake of saving the two primary bolts for last (not intentional. I forgot about them until everything else was screwed back in), and thus the Primary-short bolt was crossed, I had to use a long wrench to really screw it in. If i had to do it again, i'd definitely put in the long and short-primary bolts in first, then the last nut in the back, and then all the secondary nuts after.
Great instructional video...did everything you recommended...worked out find...took a lot of photo's...one item 12mm nut holding the alternator bracket...it's a killer...took almost 2-hours just to get out...putting back the nut another story...not mentioned the torque on alternators mounting bolts...32 ft/lbs...thank you for all your work on producing a Great Video...Mahalo...from Hawaii
Thanks man. My electrical power went out on my 2009 IS250 when i was driving at night and only left with dashboard and daytime running lights, power steering was out too, believed is due to electric power steering motor. Engine still running. Managed to get home and troubleshoot the battery is not charging. Your video helped me decide to change the alternator myself. update to the above. I took my own sweet time so 6 hours to change it out including buying tools that i do not have in the process, no power tools. the back bracket can be seen if we lower a miners light in. the hardest for me is to fit up the new alternator into the tight fit area where the long bolt goes on to. 9/16 socket broke while breaking torque on the 2 mounting bolts suggest to use penetrating spray first if possible.
Dude this video helped so much. Alternator went out yesterday on my Is250 I had one in this morning after about 1.5 hours . Watching this before definitely saved me the headache of finding that back bracket . Other than that the install was smooth as butter 🔥
Best video on YT on how to replace the alternator! I just finished this job last night after stripping the top long bolt on the front of the alternator (SMH) and taking off the wrong nut under the manifold. But, After resolving these hiccups the removal and install were pretty smooth. I did find that using my left hand (kind of reaching backwards) to find the bracket nut under the manifold made it easier to place my extension. Thanks again for a great tutorial.
This video worked for my 2014 IS250 (3rd gen) as well. That back bracket can go to hell. What a PITA! The only change i had to do for mine was i had to take off the large radiator hose at the top, or there was no way i was getting the old alternator out. It was a mess, but as soon as it was out, we were able to keep going. Total job time: around 4 hours. From someone who isnt that well versed in repairs outside a simple oil change. Great video!
THANK YOU! just replaced alternator 2006 is 250 followed your instructions that rear bracket bolt had my knuckles bleeding but without this video i wouldnt have been able to replace it myself saved $$ im sure most mechanics wouldnt even quote a price till they saw it only problem was it didnt run 😂😂😂
My neighbor’s alternator went south yesterday. The battery was six years old so I replaced it. Recheck and I’m only reading 12.5 volts. Thanks for posting this, so I know I’m definitely not doing this! If it were my money, yes, but he and his wife send their kids to private school, so, they can afford it.
I'm stuck doing mine and having a hard time getting to that bracket in the back. I also noticed there's another bolt on the side holding another bracket but idk what it goes to cause my nephew pulled what ever was attached to it off. I think only one other video mentions that bolt on the side I used a 10 mm wrench to loosen it.
Taking it off. I'm going to try this afternoon again. I reviewed what I recorded on my phone and my nephew took a nut off the exhaust manifold instead of the nut off the bracket.
Need either a small mirror or do it by feel after you locate the bolt/nut. It's tricky at first, but if you use the same size extension and copy the video it should come off
Beaus it is meant to be removed from the BOTTOM..jack the car up and all those bolts you just mentioned are EASILY accessible. The ENGINEERS design things this way to scare away "regular people" to make you think its difficult...then they "bake in" the EASY way they DESIGNED it to be removed. Take it from a dealership technician!!
Solid video, helped me with my wife’s 2010 IS250, thank you. Had to use the double nut method on the stud, as I didn’t have any e-torx, but worked fine using the 10mm nuts I took off of the wire harness mounts. Side note: probably good to just replace the idler/tensioner pulley while you’re in there. Hers only has 140,000 miles and it’s going out
Thanks a lot Cole . I am a retired Motor technician and am used to changing items like this . However the IS 250 is very awkward and your video is excellent, particularly explaining where the hidden rear braxket is. Thanks very much . James Perriam Exeter U K
I winged it and started randomly tearing into my is250 on my own and then got stuck. Looked for videos trying to figure out how to get the old alt pulled out. Your tip with the stud really helped me,(I didn’t know they came out )Thank you.
Any advice on if the bracket nut and e type bolt are stripped? Is it possible to remove the other bracket bolt on the alternator side while it's in place? 2014 lexus gs350 AWD. I worked on mine for hours. It's still pulled apart and sitting in my garage.
@BOBFudge these turbo sockets will remove them - amzn.to/4dcmyqR For the stud, can also try the double nut method. Lots of folks have skipped putting that bracket back in as well
God mechanic should have this done in under 4 hours easily. Unexperienced mechanic might be double that. I can do this job in almost under an hour myself. But that would never change how much I charge some one as I don't charge less for my expertise.
@@Mechani_Cole thanks. A friend in London with this car just had to get the alternator and battery replaced. His car suffered sudden death at a red light. Seems the battery was short-circuited. Not even the towing guys could get it running. I'll get back to you about the specifics. He collected the car today.
Just did the swap last night, thanks for the help. But this morning my check engine light and Traction light came on. Any Ideas if that is related? I had no issues before the alternator died.
@@Mechani_Cole negative. I swapped the alternator a few weeks ago and i still have a check engine light. It reads p0348. I swapped the sensor and i checked any lose wires and nothing. Car starts up fine and runs fine.
Great video, my one thing along the way I learned that I want to pass along to my fellow diy mechanic is that the stud does not need to be removed to take out/install the new alternator. Unplug the clip going into the fan then You can pull the alternator forwards then to the left where the shallow groove of the alternator will allow clearance of the stud and slide right up it. Might have to yank it a bit but it will save you a 40$ stud kit.
Good tip, thanks for sharing! It shouldn't cost $40 to remove that stud. Plenty of folks have removed it with Pliers, vicegrips, and the double nut method. Either way, it's definitely good to know it will come out without removing it🫡
Jack up the car remove left tire and you dont have to remove ANYTHING but the alternator!! Just remove the bolts from the compressor and move it to the..after you remove the stabilizer bar. I got a buddy who works for the Mercedes Dealer telling me how difficult this job is, about taking top parts of the engine off, etc...I showed him my technique and al he could do was laugh at how easy it REALLY is..people OVERTHTINK too much
A trick to retrieve the 12 mm underneath the exhaust manifold without dropping it is to use some valve grinding paste in your socket, it acts like a magnet
I followed your instructions and was able to get mine in great, everything is snug but for some reason when I start the car the battery isn’t increasing in voltage. I got the alternator from the eBay link you suggested and followed your steps. What do you think could be causing the battery to either stay the same or decrease in voltage instead of increasing?
Because the alternator doesn't charge a battery. It's only designed to maintain them. Fully charged your battery BEFORE starting the car and it should help
@@Mechani_Cole My battery was fully charged but didn’t increase in voltage when cranking. I figured it out. Had a blown charging system fuse, replaced it and it came right on
@@Mechani_Cole Actually the alternator DOES charge the battery but only back to the energy required to start the vehicle...battery is 12v the if on after changing the alternator it should read 13 to 14.4 volts...that is how you know the alternator is functioning. If his battery is decreasing it mean the alternator is either not functioning
@@a10zablue The alternator fuse is in the Main Fuse box under the hood...that black box just below the battery...the alternator fuse should be the last one on the top row (#19 depending on your model). It snot a REGULAR fuse though and is supposed to be a dealer servicable item...but you CAN see if it is blown or not.. If you have your USer Manual look in the index for "Fuses" and it will tell you what you need to know. Sometimes that is the issue, especially with aftermarket sounds...Ive seen on MELTED before...and the customer thought the alternator /battery was the problem
Good demonstration I did replace alternator two years ago on Lexus IS250 2007 model but charging light keeps showing. Car was tested and it is charging. How do I take battery light off?
I just wanted to share my appreciation for the great video you posted. I followed it and was able to successfully change the alternator of a 2008 is250. Thank you for all of the details and for showing the video in card to see places.
Great video! Question: I checked with a multimeter. Car off reading: 14-something. With car running: 17-something. Do these high readings also mean a bad alternator?
17V, if correct, will be boiling your battery and causing untold electrical havoc - best not to drive that until its sorted out. In my experience the voltage regulator is a prime suspect. If it is a lead battery. High voltage can mean heating it till it the acid starts to boil, it stinks like hell and corrodes the metal around.
@@Mechani_Cole Thanks for your reply. We checked again and I noticed the multimeter turning off. Changed the battery and it read within spec. So it was a user error. Lol. Thanks, again!!
Just got it immediately after posting this my bad lol. Great video it’s helping out amazingly! Now I just gotta find my mirror to tackle that bracket bolt 😂
Was honestly pretty easy from the top. No lift needed, I left the car on the ground. The hardest part of this whole job is getting to that small bracket on the back of the alternator. Very tight spot to get to. Just remove that little stud like I did in the video and it will save you so much hassle😁
Hi, I got the new alternator from Rock auto installed but the check battery light is ON and the battery voltage reads from 13.5v slowly went down to 12.5v after idling a few minutes. What could be other problem here?
The trick with the stud! I watched a couple videos of people fighting that bracket bolt…finally found your video and popped it right out. You are a G, thank you.
@@Mechani_Cole when it gets a cold start it turns on and shuts off immediately and after the first try it don’t turn on no more at just gives me that 1 click would you think it’s my alternator or my starter because my battery is A1
@Rayup222 a starter wouldn't cause it to stop running after it was running. An alternator could, however. If verified that the battery is charged and has no dead cells, then I would start there. Any codes? Does it seem like the lights are dim? If not it almost seems like a fueling issue
@@RayyDiaz21 STEP 1) In no-start issues ALWAYS start with the battery. you checked the battery and it is at 12 volts? Start there. If the battery is good there is no reason it should shut off even if the alternator is bad and if it were the starter it wouldnt shut off after starting...clock when you try and start MIGHT indicate a bad battery which may have had enough energy just to start that one time. Take it it to Auto Zone, et have them charge it and test it if you dont have the tools Start there then it determines the next step. I had an issue before where the car would start normally but later in the day "click" it wouldnt start. I didnt think it was the battery because the battery would read 12v. The battery had a dead cell and even though it was reading 12 vs it didnt have enough Amps dude to the dead cell. 2) Even if the battery were bad the car STILL shouldnt shut off just because of a battery beause the system ONLY uses the battery to start the car, after that all power is generated by the alternator... Check your battery and start there....THEN work your way down the line of symptoms and issues that may be causing them
Great video. I got stuck at the hardest part! What would you recommend for a rounded mounting nut behind the alternator? I tried an etorx to get the stud and nut off at once, but that ended up stripping. Also tried a nut extractor, but that made it worse. Don't have enough room to hammer it in and just cranked it with a ratchet. Any specific tool you recommend to use with a nut extractor if that's the best way?
Ouch! Good question, to get that off would be a little challenging. Can I ask how you stripped it? Using the wrong size socket? My best best would be to use a "turbo socket" which is a nut extractor. However you should be able to get it to bite without having to hammer it. Just press firmly and start turning. Best of luck
Just wanted to update if anyone had the same problem as I did with the nut behind the alternator that was stuck. I bought an impact ratchet and brand new bolt extractors with no luck. Eventually spent many hours trying to get the bolt behind the alternator off. It’s very difficult, but possible. It helps to take the ECU box out.
Thats just a 4.5MM socket. Its a 'pass thru' socket so it looks different. But its just the only size socket I had that would fit. They are the same, good question though🤙🏼
Is it worth changing the alternator on a 2006 Lexus IS 250? Here in Hong Kong, the resale value for such an old car is zero -- so my friend is saying I am spending good money on a depreciated asset. But the car doesn't have that much miles on it... and it seems a waste to scrap it. Also the cost of changing the alternator is about US$650 and for an original made in Japan Toyota alternator - more than double that at US$1500....Of course I don't know if another part will fail in a few years - though we do take the car for annual check up every year and change the oil and air filters, and tires if needed. Appreciate any advice. Many thanks.
How can a working vehicle have a resell value of zero? Even the worst cars here have a value. And yes, it's a good idea to change it unless you can get a nicer car for the $600 there
I know. Thats what I used to get it in the video. 14mm or 12mm, but 3 inch extension. Put the extension and socket on first, then attach the ratchet for easier results
Can I do this? We might find out... Great video. My mechanic said this thing was a massive pain in the but to replace. And it looks like mine went out again.
@@Mechani_Cole Oh man this is tough. I'm getting stuck on the little wire tabs and what I guess in the main wire plug into the alternator? I also pulled out the wrong screw when trying to get that bracket deep in the back.
Good question! Duralast is really known for being an unreliable and cheap brand. Go with a nicer one like the Denso. There is some linked in the description. Both are good options. We used the Denso for pretty cheap. Personally, I would avoid Duralast anything. Or any part from AutoZone.
I understand. But if you put a cheap part in and then it breaks in 2-3 months, that would mean you are spending more money. With cars, its best to do it right, or end up doing it twice. Trying to get cheap parts will actually end up costing you more. Getting quality is always better.
Dude u are awesome. I’m not sure if the alternator is even an issue with mine but I know it won’t b long. My is250 won’t fire all the way up but she’s trying soooo hard 😩😩😩. Hoping to get her fixed ASAP. Thanks again
I did replace my alt. Yesterday it took me 12hrs and I accidentally removed the exhaust manifold nut since they almost on the same spot 🤷🏽♂️🤦♂️, I haven’t been able to put it back I also didn’t put back the nut that hold the alt. In the back ! Not sure how important is that !! 🤞🏽
@@Mechani_Cole I do have burning smell on initial start but it’s gone is that normal, but today I open the hood and I’m not sure that’s because engine is hot or that is burning smell ? Any idea what I’ve could did wrong or missed ? Thanks again
@@Mechani_Cole I’ll do it this weekend, but notice there’s a metal bracket that on the wire harness on top of the alternator I can’t get it back where it belongs and I don’t see any place to attach it with ? Is that the ground ?
Thank you so much for this video! So well taught and edited 👌 Just about finished the job, but this video saved me a load of money for sure. Worth noting for others to make sure you have the same length socket adapters for the nut on the bracket behind the alternator, and to make sure to use a long wrench!
Also, wondering whether you’ve come across the issue I’ve had since changing the alternator? I now have a ‘CHECK VSC’ message and the VSC, check engine and red triangle lights are on my dash. Any idea what this could be? My OBD scanner says “P0348 camshaft position sensor A high bank 2”
@@Mechani_Cole yeah I did! Everything by the book... I’m wondering if it’s anything to do with the car being sat for a few weeks, now had a new voltage from a new alternator, and it’s kicking up a fuss...
I just followed this and replaced the alternator. But when I put the battery back on and started the car it struggled and wouldn’t turn over all the way. So now my car won’t start. Any ideas what it can be? I tried jump starting and that doesn’t work either so don’t think it’s the battery. Please help
The battery needs to be fully charged. Or you have a bad battery. Are the lights dim inside? Even if it's at 10 volts it will try to start, but won't work. Needs to be fully charged
You can take your battery to a local parts store. They can charge it and test it for free usually. Make 100% sure the battery is good before proceeding to anything else
@@Mechani_Cole figured it wasn’t the battery, now don’t know what to do, forums say to unplug the fuel pressure sensor to see if it starts but not sure where to donitn
14mm front alternator bolts (long and short): 32ft/lbs 12mm bolt on back bracket: 15ft/lbs Alternator Clutch pulley (ADP): 81ft/lbs 10mm nut fastener for alternator power wire: 87in/lbs
Thats awesome! I love these comments🤟🏼 I've actually had people Venmo me random amounts of money with 'Thank you' in the notes. Nothing crazy and pretty rare, but its happened! I am more than happy knowing that I have helped some one, thats cool enough for me😁
Cole you are now saving me about $200-$300 in labor. Thank you for this video. Best video on UA-cam. Question: 2is 250/350 same steps? I own a (350 08) / what was discouraging me from doing this was that nut behind the alternator, can you explain in words exactly how I could reach it? Before I go at it I just wanna make sure I won’t waste my time out there and stress out Lol. Extremely great video, God bless you!
Thats awesome to hear. Happy it was helpful. To my knowledge its the same process just on a bigger engine. For the nut behind the alternator, I put a deep 12mm socket on a 4 inch extension. Then I placed it on the nut by hand. You can't see it, so you got to feel for it. Once the socket ajd extension is there, then I placed the ratchet on it and broke it free. Once it was free, I removed the ratchet and use the extension like a hand driver to remove the rest if the way. Reverse process for install. Its the hardest part of this job for sure, best of luck!
@@Mechani_Cole Took a screen shot of ur response. Will follow those steps. Sorry another question: what alternator did you end up using? Do you know how well its held up til today? I’m considering the Amazon one you linked $260. I don’t want to pay OEM prices at the dealership I heard it ranges from $400-$600. I keep hearing Denso would be the best alternative.. For the timing belt would you say those are universal? Any solid brand would work? Thanks Cole for ur quick responses.
I beleieve we used the Denso one from the Ebay link. It worked great and still does, its my friends car and he has zero issues since. Most come with a warranty as well
Hey man, I can’t thank you enough for making this awesome video! I got a new alternator for my Lexus IS 250 and I installed it all by myself thanks to you brother! BTW, I have a pretty decent set of tools to work on my car, however, I would like to buy that electric ratchet you used to loosen and tighten the short and long bolts that holds the alternator in place. Could you please tell me the name, brand and model of that tool?
Thanks for commenting! Here is the link to the one used in the video, these save a TON of time! - amzn.to/3RO9Ead Here is the upgraded version that's even better - amzn.to/4841gcb It's faster, stronger and lasts longer. Both are very solid. I've used mine for at least the last 6 years and it's still going strong
@@Mechani_Cole I totally agree with you. Its way faster and saves time. Can’t wait to buy it. Keep those awesome videos coming. Yours is by far the best video tutorial on UA-cam that shows step-by-step how to replace a new alternator on a Lexus IS 250. You should make another one showing how to remove and install the driver side banjo bolt that goes attached to the driver side valve cover, when replacing the valve cover gasket. I had to removed the ac line just to get that banjo bolt back in place. Is there any other way to do it without having to remove that ac line? You should make a video showing that part.
Yeah this guy is GOOD..but to avoid removing all the top components jack it up, removes the left front wheel, remove the 3 compressor bolts. move compressor to the side and you have EASY access to not only the 2 bolts holding the compressor, but an EASY shot at that 12mm on the bracket AND the alternator drops down and out easy...from the BOTTOM.. its HARD from the top because its MEANT to be for people who dont think thee might be another way when its too difficult. Toyota/Lexus NEVER make things hard for technicians when designing vehicles...knowing this when something IS hard you have to "Think Like Toyota"! We are here to help each other!!
@HuChing-ob4kk that has to be sarcasm! "Toyota and lexus NEVER make anything difficult for the technician" is about one of the biggest lies I've heard. There is actually some very stupid Toyota designs that are difficult and unnecessary. I'd be curious to see who does this job quicker with what technique. This job took me under an hour and I didn't have a jack a car up for no reason
@@Mechani_Cole FYI: I have worked in the automotive field for 20 years Toyoytas are an absolute BLAST to work on (even better than Hondas) because it feels like you are stealing... You can FEEL what engineers think when you are working on these vehicles...Toyota engineers design these vehicles with the technician in mind..yes you CAN find a few models like the Previa Van or the earlier camrys that were headaches but as a WHOLE..Toyotas are EASY!!!
Nice video. I did mine about a month ago and didn't put the bracket back on. It works fine and it's nice and snug. Do you think the bracket is absolutely necessary?
I did mine this morning and missed the bracket, wish I would have watched this first! Mine only had the bracket, no bolt to the block. It was way easier to put the new alternator back in, I was wondering why. Haha
for anyone else wondering, I skipped the bracket and bolt on the back of the altenator as well because I finished everything else and that back bolt alone took me over 4 hours. 40k miles and 4 years later I am rewatching this video to install a new alternator. Think twice before skipping this bolt, although it could just be a coincidence
erm...soo less than half an inch or so behind the rear bracket bolt there appears to be a brass 10mm drain bolt of some sort. in my haste - coupled with poor lighting conditions - I loosened it thinking it was the bracket bolt only to hear fluids running. looked under the car and saw red fluid coming out - is this transmission fluid? seems a little too forward of the tranny mating surface, but then again I am not sure if/how the tranny fluid circulates within the engine body.
Good video, but one thing I would like to point out. I learned the Hard way, you need to leave the bracket in the back of the alternator little bit loose so you can put all the bolts in and tight it up.
Took me about 1.5hrs for this DIY job. A good amount spent on figuring out how to get to that damn bracket nut. There's barely any room to get your hand in there let alone trying to turn your ratchet after you do. I would recommend anyone to have a deep socket 12mm for that bracket nut because the stud sticks out too much for a regular socket.
its easy access if you jack the car up and remove the left front wheel...remove the 3 compressor bolts and just push it to the side..I probably shouldnt share this anymore so I can charge people hundreds to do this job!!
This depends completely on skill level. I can do this job in 2 hours or less on average. But several people struggle with the back bolt with the wrong tools and it takes 6-8 hours or more.
I am trying to get my alternator out of my is250 and can’t afford to take it to a shop. I got the bolts out but I still couldn’t get it to budge , help😭😭😭
Are all 3 bolts removed? Stick a screw driver in between the top when the long bolt goes and pry it towards you. Sometimes they get stuck. Once it wiggles, you'll need to pull it off the L shipped bracket in the back. Let me know if you need more help🤙🏼
Does nothing happen at all? Is the ground and power hooked up proper? Maybe a fuse blew when connecting. Did you leave your battery unhooked? Also is your battery fully charged?
Im late for this but, check small wire that clips to rear of starter. Mine pulled 1/4 out of starter when I was removing alternater. Push in on small wire that connects to starter. Plastic Clip may be locked but small wire may have been pulled out when moving alternater around. Took me 2 days to figure this out after changing my Alternater. After so many miles Plastic clip also dry rot from heat of the engine. Thanks
does anybody had a problem with the alternator pulley after install the new alternator? when I start tighten the bolts the pulley get stuck. it does not moved back or forward.
Ive seen this before , make sure you havent over-tightened that pulley...if you overtighten it the bearings will be damaged and be no good...these parts arent expensive though. Dont overtighten and destroy the bearing..if it doesnt move it is overtighned. Here is a test for you...put the center bearing of the pulley between two fingers and spin it...does it move smooothly or does it feel rough and makes noise??!
@@Mechani_Cole Oh wow! That was quick "reply". I think im gonna have to do that. My battery was pretty much dead since i was running purely on battery to navigate right before my Alternator took a dump. So i decided to replace it put everything together then charged it to see if it would fire right up? I charged it enough to where the engine turned over and noticed what appeared like the alarm lights flickering then bam it fired up. To my surprise i had lost that nut that goes into the positive terminal on the Alternator. I figured what the heck right? Then i noticed like arching in the area where the nut is supposed to be? I let it run for another sec to see what happened then i just realized i could possibly due damage so i quickly killed the engine and unplugged the negative of the battery. I didnt want to take chances of messing anything up. So this is where im at with this repair??? Thanks for the quick reply.
![Project Daily [Ep.16] "Lexus IS350 Alternator Broken?"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7xz4muq6mxE/mqdefault.jpg)
Denso Alternator on Amazon - amzn.to/3FnTqvp
Cheaper Alternator on Amazon - amzn.to/3DrLw3x
Good option on Ebay - ebay.us/CeN9Y6
eManual Repair Manuals for Any Vehicle - shrsl.com/43l4o
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Thanks for watching!
I was about to start pulling my hair out till I seen this and realized there was a bracket on the back. Damn Lexus. Great video. 👍
Glad this was helpful! That bracket is probably the trickiest part of this whole job🫡
If I get that 250 AMP alternator from eBay, will I need to rewire anything or is the current wiring strong enough to handle it?
It's plenty strong enough to handle it
This is literally what the internet is for
Perfect video
I would have been stuck figuring out that bracket for hours
Thank you thank you thank you
Happy I could help, thanks for leaving a comment🤟🏼
Great explainations on everything. Having never changed one of these before, watching this gave me the confidence to do it myself.. took me twice as long, and I bled a little, and had to phone a friend.. but it saved me 2 days and $800!
Love comments like this! Happy it was helpful and saved you some money, good work!
Another job done on my IS 350C thanks to this video. I had to watch it in conjunction with another video to get the full picture. This is perhaps the most annoying repair I've done thanks to those hard to reach nuts and clips. About 5-6 hours total, including time spent having to go shopping for long extention bars. Someone else commented on a left-handed back-reach for that nut in the far back, this tip helped a lot. You gotta take off your gloves and feel it with your fingers. I bought the mirror that he used in the video, thinking it was a stupid purchase, but I ended up using it a lot. Another tip I would give is that when you finally get the new alternator in place after dragging your balls through a mile of broken glass, don't be tempted to screw in all the secondary nuts. I made the mistake of saving the two primary bolts for last (not intentional. I forgot about them until everything else was screwed back in), and thus the Primary-short bolt was crossed, I had to use a long wrench to really screw it in. If i had to do it again, i'd definitely put in the long and short-primary bolts in first, then the last nut in the back, and then all the secondary nuts after.
Great instructional video...did everything you recommended...worked out find...took a lot of photo's...one item 12mm nut holding the alternator bracket...it's a killer...took almost 2-hours just to get out...putting back the nut another story...not mentioned the torque on alternators mounting bolts...32 ft/lbs...thank you for all your work on producing a Great Video...Mahalo...from Hawaii
Thanks man. My electrical power went out on my 2009 IS250 when i was driving at night and only left with dashboard and daytime running lights, power steering was out too, believed is due to electric power steering motor. Engine still running. Managed to get home and troubleshoot the battery is not charging. Your video helped me decide to change the alternator myself. update to the above. I took my own sweet time so 6 hours to change it out including buying tools that i do not have in the process, no power tools. the back bracket can be seen if we lower a miners light in. the hardest for me is to fit up the new alternator into the tight fit area where the long bolt goes on to. 9/16 socket broke while breaking torque on the 2 mounting bolts suggest to use penetrating spray first if possible.
Dude this video helped so much. Alternator went out yesterday on my Is250 I had one in this morning after about 1.5 hours . Watching this before definitely saved me the headache of finding that back bracket . Other than that the install was smooth as butter 🔥
Love comments like this, that's awesome! Thanks for watching, glad it was helpful🤟🏼
when you alt went out was it like making a horrific clicking???
Mine made a whining noise @@gangnen8704
Next time remove the left from wheel, remove the three compressor bolts, move it o the side and the alternator is RIGHT there
Best video on YT on how to replace the alternator! I just finished this job last night after stripping the top long bolt on the front of the alternator (SMH) and taking off the wrong nut under the manifold. But, After resolving these hiccups the removal and install were pretty smooth. I did find that using my left hand (kind of reaching backwards) to find the bracket nut under the manifold made it easier to place my extension. Thanks again for a great tutorial.
Thanks for the comment, glad it was helpful🤟🏼
This video worked for my 2014 IS250 (3rd gen) as well. That back bracket can go to hell. What a PITA!
The only change i had to do for mine was i had to take off the large radiator hose at the top, or there was no way i was getting the old alternator out. It was a mess, but as soon as it was out, we were able to keep going.
Total job time: around 4 hours. From someone who isnt that well versed in repairs outside a simple oil change.
Great video!
That's awesome, that bracket does suck! Glad you were able to get it fixed🤙🏼
What is the socket called that you used to remove the stud 6:11
It was a 3.5mm or a 4.5mm can't remember off top
THANK YOU! just replaced alternator 2006 is 250 followed your instructions that rear bracket bolt had my knuckles bleeding but without this video i wouldnt have been able to replace it myself saved $$ im sure most mechanics wouldnt even quote a price till they saw it only problem was it didnt run 😂😂😂
My neighbor’s alternator went south yesterday. The battery was six years old so I replaced it. Recheck and I’m only reading 12.5 volts. Thanks for posting this, so I know I’m definitely not doing this! If it were my money, yes, but he and his wife send their kids to private school, so, they can afford it.
I'm stuck doing mine and having a hard time getting to that bracket in the back. I also noticed there's another bolt on the side holding another bracket but idk what it goes to cause my nephew pulled what ever was attached to it off. I think only one other video mentions that bolt on the side I used a 10 mm wrench to loosen it.
Having trouble taking it off? Or putting it on?
Taking it off. I'm going to try this afternoon again. I reviewed what I recorded on my phone and my nephew took a nut off the exhaust manifold instead of the nut off the bracket.
Need either a small mirror or do it by feel after you locate the bolt/nut. It's tricky at first, but if you use the same size extension and copy the video it should come off
Ok. I'll do that definitely and once it's off I should be able to pull it out the way you did without removing the ecu box
Beaus it is meant to be removed from the BOTTOM..jack the car up and all those bolts you just mentioned are EASILY accessible. The ENGINEERS design things this way to scare away "regular people" to make you think its difficult...then they "bake in" the EASY way they DESIGNED it to be removed. Take it from a dealership technician!!
Solid video, helped me with my wife’s 2010 IS250, thank you. Had to use the double nut method on the stud, as I didn’t have any e-torx, but worked fine using the 10mm nuts I took off of the wire harness mounts. Side note: probably good to just replace the idler/tensioner pulley while you’re in there. Hers only has 140,000 miles and it’s going out
Appreciate the comment, glad it was helpful. Great time to replace the tensioner as well for sure
Thanks a lot Cole . I am a retired Motor technician and am used to changing items like this . However the IS 250 is very awkward and your video is excellent, particularly explaining where the hidden rear braxket is. Thanks very much . James Perriam Exeter U K
Just got done with this job took me about 2 hours best video out there easier then removing that ecu box thanks man 👍
Truly love comments like this, thank you!
Happy the video was helpful✌🏽
Professional video man... good lighting, smooth music and great explanation on removal and install. Top notch!
Much appreciated, thanks for watching🫡
I winged it and started randomly tearing into my is250 on my own and then got stuck. Looked for videos trying to figure out how to get the old alt pulled out. Your tip with the stud really helped me,(I didn’t know they came out )Thank you.
Nice! Happy it was helpful!
Thanks!
Does anyone know what tool he used for those bracket screws thingy. The screw he took off to get out the alternator easier in 5:21
It's a small socket. Like 4.5 mm if I remember right
@ thank you so much for replying!!!♥️ your the man!!
Any advice on if the bracket nut and e type bolt are stripped? Is it possible to remove the other bracket bolt on the alternator side while it's in place? 2014 lexus gs350 AWD. I worked on mine for hours. It's still pulled apart and sitting in my garage.
@BOBFudge these turbo sockets will remove them - amzn.to/4dcmyqR
For the stud, can also try the double nut method.
Lots of folks have skipped putting that bracket back in as well
@@Mechani_Cole Thank you, I'll give it a shot and update after it's finished. Great channel! Subbed and liked!
What spray did you use to clean up the plastic covers? Thank you!
Thanks for the great video! How much time would you say the changing job should take for a mecahnic ? Doesn't look too easy!
God mechanic should have this done in under 4 hours easily. Unexperienced mechanic might be double that.
I can do this job in almost under an hour myself. But that would never change how much I charge some one as I don't charge less for my expertise.
@@Mechani_Cole thanks. A friend in London with this car just had to get the alternator and battery replaced. His car suffered sudden death at a red light. Seems the battery was short-circuited. Not even the towing guys could get it running. I'll get back to you about the specifics. He collected the car today.
Thank you sir. Life saver wouldn't have found the bolt by the manifold without your help.
Just did the swap last night, thanks for the help. But this morning my check engine light and Traction light came on. Any Ideas if that is related? I had no issues before the alternator died.
Sometimes this means the battery itself needs to be replaced. Other times, this goes away on its own if the car is running ok
Same thing happen to my IS
Were you able to get it fixed ?
Usually goes away on its own
@@Mechani_Cole negative. I swapped the alternator a few weeks ago and i still have a check engine light.
It reads p0348. I swapped the sensor and i checked any lose wires and nothing.
Car starts up fine and runs fine.
@814MrAlex you reset the code and it still comes back?
Your tutorial video helped me to replace the alternator myself and saved me some money $$$
Thank you!
Thanks for the comment! 🫡
Great video, my one thing along the way I learned that I want to pass along to my fellow diy mechanic is that the stud does not need to be removed to take out/install the new alternator. Unplug the clip going into the fan then You can pull the alternator forwards then to the left where the shallow groove of the alternator will allow clearance of the stud and slide right up it. Might have to yank it a bit but it will save you a 40$ stud kit.
Good tip, thanks for sharing!
It shouldn't cost $40 to remove that stud. Plenty of folks have removed it with Pliers, vicegrips, and the double nut method.
Either way, it's definitely good to know it will come out without removing it🫡
just took it out without removing the stud, tight fit but thanks for the tip
@Tipzer ay that's awesome! 👏🏼
@@Tipzer you’re welcome brotha 🤝 happy my comment was able to help.
Jack up the car remove left tire and you dont have to remove ANYTHING but the alternator!! Just remove the bolts from the compressor and move it to the..after you remove the stabilizer bar. I got a buddy who works for the Mercedes Dealer telling me how difficult this job is, about taking top parts of the engine off, etc...I showed him my technique and al he could do was laugh at how easy it REALLY is..people OVERTHTINK too much
A trick to retrieve the 12 mm underneath the exhaust manifold without dropping it is to use some valve grinding paste in your socket, it acts like a magnet
Good tip, thanks for sharing!
@@Mechani_Cole tape works too 😁
One of the best how to videos period.
Ay! Much appreciated!
Hi, can you help me out with the stud part? I need to buy another one and I don’t know what is called at the mechanic store or the size
I would call the dealer and ask for that specific one myself. I'm not sure either
Hi! Will this video work in replacing an alternator on a 2008 Lexus IS250?
That's that is in the video. The car is an 08 Lexus IS250. All the parts I the description fit as well
great video!!!!... I was trying to open the link for eManual repairs and I couldn't. I think the link don't work anymore.
Thank you! I'll get these links updated asap🫡
Thanks for this, me and pops finished it in a couple hours. Saved a lot of cash doing it ourselves. He can sleep good tonight 🎉😂
I followed your instructions and was able to get mine in great, everything is snug but for some reason when I start the car the battery isn’t increasing in voltage. I got the alternator from the eBay link you suggested and followed your steps. What do you think could be causing the battery to either stay the same or decrease in voltage instead of increasing?
Because the alternator doesn't charge a battery. It's only designed to maintain them. Fully charged your battery BEFORE starting the car and it should help
@@Mechani_Cole My battery was fully charged but didn’t increase in voltage when cranking. I figured it out. Had a blown charging system fuse, replaced it and it came right on
@@LukeGerzon hi, i had the same problem. Where did you locate the blown fuse charging system?
@@Mechani_Cole Actually the alternator DOES charge the battery but only back to the energy required to start the vehicle...battery is 12v the if on
after changing the alternator it should read 13 to 14.4 volts...that is how you know the alternator is functioning. If his battery is decreasing it mean the alternator is either not functioning
@@a10zablue The alternator fuse is in the Main Fuse box under the hood...that black box just below the battery...the alternator fuse should be the last one on the top row (#19 depending on your model). It snot a REGULAR fuse though and is supposed to be a dealer servicable item...but you CAN see if it is blown or not..
If you have your USer Manual look in the index for "Fuses" and it will tell you what you need to know. Sometimes that is the issue, especially with aftermarket sounds...Ive seen on MELTED before...and the customer thought the alternator /battery was the problem
Good demonstration I did replace alternator two years ago on Lexus IS250 2007 model but charging light keeps showing. Car was tested and it is charging. How do I take battery light off?
Is the battery testing at enough voltage?
@@Mechani_Cole not sure as an electrician checked it and said it is charging. Will follow up with what you asked. Thanks
Do you have a link to the 4.5mm e-torx socket? Can't seem to find it anywhere online
These should work - amzn.to/455AdLs
If not. You can always use vicegrips or the double nut technique
@@Mechani_Cole Thanks! I figured the next size up or some locking pliers woulda been a nice alternative
What cleaner did you use for the end. To clean the engine covers for
Is it a similar process for a 2015 IS 250?
Yes
@Mechani_Cole thanks, I'm thinking I may have to replace mine soon. Tbh didn't expect you to answer so quick.
I try to answer everyone as quick as possible 🫡
What socket do you need for that little stud?
5mm or 4.5mm
I just wanted to share my appreciation for the great video you posted. I followed it and was able to successfully change the alternator of a 2008 is250. Thank you for all of the details and for showing the video in card to see places.
Appreciate the comment, glad it was helpful! Good work getting it fixed yourself!🫡
11:19 Great Video. What did you use to clean the engine covers? I need that 😊
Thanks, much appreciated! I use this stuff from Meguiars - amzn.to/3QMW4SD
I've used it for years and it lasts a long time too🫡
@@Mechani_Cole Thank You 🫡
Great video! Question: I checked with a multimeter. Car off reading: 14-something. With car running: 17-something. Do these high readings also mean a bad alternator?
17V, if correct, will be boiling your battery and causing untold electrical havoc - best not to drive that until its sorted out.
In my experience the voltage regulator is a prime suspect. If it is a lead battery. High voltage can mean heating it till it the acid starts to boil, it stinks like hell and corrodes the metal around.
@@Mechani_Cole Thanks for your reply. We checked again and I noticed the multimeter turning off. Changed the battery and it read within spec. So it was a user error. Lol. Thanks, again!!
Good catch!
Excellent video. Question, got my alternator tested and the voltage regulator failed. Is that a separate component or part of the alternator?
It's part of the alternator. Replace the whole thing. The Denso one I have linked in the description is still problem free almost 3 years later
Ok thank you so much. This helps out tremendously
2:32 how do I get this off??
Just pull it, it should pop off
Just got it immediately after posting this my bad lol. Great video it’s helping out amazingly! Now I just gotta find my mirror to tackle that bracket bolt 😂
Ay that's awesome! Good work!
About to tackle this mess and I'm dreading it. Would it help to use a lift at all or is it best to go from above like you did?
Was honestly pretty easy from the top. No lift needed, I left the car on the ground. The hardest part of this whole job is getting to that small bracket on the back of the alternator. Very tight spot to get to. Just remove that little stud like I did in the video and it will save you so much hassle😁
Would this be the same for a 2008 is250 ??
Yes, same thing
Great video . What size socket for tensioner nut?
Either a 14mm or 10mm most likely, can't remember 100% off top
Hi, I got the new alternator from Rock auto installed but the check battery light is ON and the battery voltage reads from 13.5v slowly went down to 12.5v after idling a few minutes. What could be other problem here?
What brand is the alternator?
@@Mechani_Cole I got the Pure energy remanufactured.
The trick with the stud! I watched a couple videos of people fighting that bracket bolt…finally found your video and popped it right out. You are a G, thank you.
Thanks man! Happy it was helpful, comments like this always make it worth it🤟🏼
How did you know it was your alternator that was out when you would try to turn it on will it click once
This car wouldn't keep a new battery charged. Easiest way to tell.
@@Mechani_Cole when it gets a cold start it turns on and shuts off immediately and after the first try it don’t turn on no more at just gives me that 1 click would you think it’s my alternator or my starter because my battery is A1
@Rayup222 a starter wouldn't cause it to stop running after it was running.
An alternator could, however. If verified that the battery is charged and has no dead cells, then I would start there.
Any codes? Does it seem like the lights are dim?
If not it almost seems like a fueling issue
@@RayyDiaz21 STEP 1) In no-start issues ALWAYS start with the battery. you checked the battery and it is at 12 volts? Start there.
If the battery is good there is no reason it should shut off even if the alternator is bad and if it were the starter it wouldnt shut off after starting...clock when you try and start MIGHT indicate a bad battery which may have had enough energy just to start that one time. Take it it to Auto Zone, et have them charge it and test it if you dont have the tools
Start there then it determines the next step. I had an issue before where the car would start normally but later in the day "click" it wouldnt start. I didnt think it was the battery because the battery would read 12v. The battery had a dead cell and even though it was reading 12 vs it didnt have enough Amps dude to the dead cell.
2) Even if the battery were bad the car STILL shouldnt shut off just because of a battery beause the system ONLY uses the battery to start the car, after that all power is generated by the alternator...
Check your battery and start there....THEN work your way down the line of symptoms and issues that may be causing them
What is the tool you used to remove the stud?
This is a small 4.5mm socket. You can use pliers if you are careful. Or can run to the store and grab the right size for it.
Only grab the very tip if using pliers
Can sometimes use 2 10mm nuts and reverse one on to the other and remove stud like that too
I could be wrong on the size, can't remember off top
I used a 4mm and that worked aswell
Ty for the vid. What socket do you use to take the stud out at 4:47 of the video?
4.5mm E-Torx for that small bolt
Is the 2015 is250 the same alternator
Not 100% sure to be honest.
Great video. I got stuck at the hardest part! What would you recommend for a rounded mounting nut behind the alternator? I tried an etorx to get the stud and nut off at once, but that ended up stripping. Also tried a nut extractor, but that made it worse. Don't have enough room to hammer it in and just cranked it with a ratchet. Any specific tool you recommend to use with a nut extractor if that's the best way?
Ouch! Good question, to get that off would be a little challenging. Can I ask how you stripped it? Using the wrong size socket?
My best best would be to use a "turbo socket" which is a nut extractor. However you should be able to get it to bite without having to hammer it. Just press firmly and start turning. Best of luck
Just wanted to update if anyone had the same problem as I did with the nut behind the alternator that was stuck. I bought an impact ratchet and brand new bolt extractors with no luck. Eventually spent many hours trying to get the bolt behind the alternator off. It’s very difficult, but possible. It helps to take the ECU box out.
Awesome video. Followed your instructions and completed the job in just under 2 hours.
Love these comments, good work!🫡👏🏼
is this the same for 2006 is250?
Yeah
stud on the engine block, what is the name of the tool used to remove it & size?
Thats just a 4.5MM socket. Its a 'pass thru' socket so it looks different. But its just the only size socket I had that would fit. They are the same, good question though🤙🏼
My is250 is a POS do you think it’s possible to reinstall it without reusing the bracket ?
Has anyone done this ?
Yes it's possible. But also not hard to install the bracket, just takes a couple tries sometimes. But it should hold without the bracket
@@Mechani_Cole thanks for the response it just seemed a little unnecessary. If I choose to run it without I will let you know how it goes
@@lonniebeams8499did u run it without it?
Is it worth changing the alternator on a 2006 Lexus IS 250? Here in Hong Kong, the resale value for such an old car is zero -- so my friend is saying I am spending good money on a depreciated asset. But the car doesn't have that much miles on it... and it seems a waste to scrap it. Also the cost of changing the alternator is about US$650 and for an original made in Japan Toyota alternator - more than double that at US$1500....Of course I don't know if another part will fail in a few years - though we do take the car for annual check up every year and change the oil and air filters, and tires if needed. Appreciate any advice. Many thanks.
How can a working vehicle have a resell value of zero? Even the worst cars here have a value. And yes, it's a good idea to change it unless you can get a nicer car for the $600 there
@@Mechani_Cole Thank you for the sanity check and reply. Getting it fixed...
What did you use to remove the stud
If I remember it was like a 4mm e torx
Hey are the 2012 and 2008 alternator setup's similar?
Yeah, pretty much the same thing
Did you use an e-torx to get those studs out? (one from the engine and the alt?)
Thanks!
4.5mm e-torx!
What length extension and socket did you use?
3 inch extension with a 14mm if i remember correctly
@@Mechani_Cole to clarify, I meant for the bolt on the back. Sorry about that
I know. Thats what I used to get it in the video. 14mm or 12mm, but 3 inch extension.
Put the extension and socket on first, then attach the ratchet for easier results
@@Mechani_Cole I was clarifying for anyone who needed the info in the future. Thanks man this video is super helpful!
Will this fit my 2011 Lexus is 350c?
I would double check the part numbers but it should
Can I do this? We might find out... Great video. My mechanic said this thing was a massive pain in the but to replace. And it looks like mine went out again.
You can do it! My cousins wife did it by herself just by watching this video. She had never worked on a car before and was still able to do it🫡
@@Mechani_Cole Oh man this is tough. I'm getting stuck on the little wire tabs and what I guess in the main wire plug into the alternator? I also pulled out the wrong screw when trying to get that bracket deep in the back.
@TheRayfield77 on the main plug, press down firmly, then press the release, then pull it. This helps release the mechanism when pushing down.
Make it EASIER..jack the car up and do it from the bottom. Share tht with you mechanic so he can make more money by doing it easier
@@HuChing-ob4kk funny thing, I was just talking about that with him not long ago and that's exactly how they did it.
Is it okay to use an afermarket alternator on the Lexus such as duralast
Good question! Duralast is really known for being an unreliable and cheap brand.
Go with a nicer one like the Denso.
There is some linked in the description. Both are good options. We used the Denso for pretty cheap.
Personally, I would avoid Duralast anything. Or any part from AutoZone.
@@Mechani_Cole awesome thank you. I’m really broke now days and can’t afford anything too expensive so I’m just looking for the best price stuff
@@Mechani_Cole is the eBay link a good one? Is it a denso?
Yes
I understand. But if you put a cheap part in and then it breaks in 2-3 months, that would mean you are spending more money.
With cars, its best to do it right, or end up doing it twice.
Trying to get cheap parts will actually end up costing you more. Getting quality is always better.
Dude u are awesome. I’m not sure if the alternator is even an issue with mine but I know it won’t b long. My is250 won’t fire all the way up but she’s trying soooo hard 😩😩😩. Hoping to get her fixed ASAP. Thanks again
Thanks man, appreciate that! You can test your voltage while running and test your battery for free at most auto parts stores.
I have a 2014 is it the same ??
Yeah
I did replace my alt. Yesterday it took me 12hrs and I accidentally removed the exhaust manifold nut since they almost on the same spot 🤷🏽♂️🤦♂️, I haven’t been able to put it back I also didn’t put back the nut that hold the alt. In the back ! Not sure how important is that !! 🤞🏽
It's all pretty important to have everything bolted down. However some people have left that bolt out and were still ok
@@Mechani_Cole I do have burning smell on initial start but it’s gone is that normal, but today I open the hood and I’m not sure that’s because engine is hot or that is burning smell ? Any idea what I’ve could did wrong or missed ? Thanks again
If you loosened the exhaust stud you could now have an exhaust leak if not torqued down properly
@@Mechani_Cole I’ll do it this weekend, but notice there’s a metal bracket that on the wire harness on top of the alternator I can’t get it back where it belongs and I don’t see any place to attach it with ? Is that the ground ?
Either the ground or the power.
Any easier way to get the bracket nut from the back to break off easier my socket keeps slipping
Using a 6 point socket my help on a small extension
Hey great video, I really like how it was put together. I just have a quick question, what is the name of the tool you used to remove the studs?
4.5mm internal torx socket
@@Mechani_Cole hell yeah, good looking out my boy! I appreciate it. You just gained a real one lol
Thanks for watching, welcome to the channel🫡
What size is that external torx to remove the stud?
4.5mm he posted on other comments
Thank you so much for this video! So well taught and edited 👌 Just about finished the job, but this video saved me a load of money for sure. Worth noting for others to make sure you have the same length socket adapters for the nut on the bracket behind the alternator, and to make sure to use a long wrench!
Thanks for watching, good advice!👌🏼
Also, wondering whether you’ve come across the issue I’ve had since changing the alternator? I now have a ‘CHECK VSC’ message and the VSC, check engine and red triangle lights are on my dash. Any idea what this could be? My OBD scanner says “P0348 camshaft position sensor A high bank 2”
(Worth noting these problems weren’t there before changing the alternator, but came as soon as I turned the car on after changing it)
Did you disconnect the battery before performing the alternator change?
@@Mechani_Cole yeah I did! Everything by the book... I’m wondering if it’s anything to do with the car being sat for a few weeks, now had a new voltage from a new alternator, and it’s kicking up a fuss...
That alternator still looks brand new and it went out?
@gshock714 looks have nothing to do with internal operation
Amazin video ! I am trying to change on my lexus is 250 crankshaft position sensor please help!!!
I haven't changed one of those personally, have you tried finding a manual for it?
I just followed this and replaced the alternator. But when I put the battery back on and started the car it struggled and wouldn’t turn over all the way. So now my car won’t start. Any ideas what it can be? I tried jump starting and that doesn’t work either so don’t think it’s the battery. Please help
The battery needs to be fully charged. Or you have a bad battery. Are the lights dim inside?
Even if it's at 10 volts it will try to start, but won't work. Needs to be fully charged
You can take your battery to a local parts store. They can charge it and test it for free usually. Make 100% sure the battery is good before proceeding to anything else
@@Mechani_Cole hey, I first used a jump starter pack and didn’t work. I ended up buying a completely new battery and still didn’t work
@@Mechani_Cole figured it wasn’t the battery, now don’t know what to do, forums say to unplug the fuel pressure sensor to see if it starts but not sure where to donitn
Did you disconnect the batter before performing the job? Is it turning over at all? Wonder if a fuse is blown🤔
Anybody know torque specs for idler pulley and alternator mounting bolts?
14mm front alternator bolts (long and short): 32ft/lbs
12mm bolt on back bracket: 15ft/lbs
Alternator Clutch pulley (ADP): 81ft/lbs
10mm nut fastener for alternator power wire: 87in/lbs
@@Mechani_Cole thanks! Idler pulley?
Thanks man you saved me so much money today. Can I send you like a Christmas card this year or something like that. You the man.
Thats awesome! I love these comments🤟🏼
I've actually had people Venmo me random amounts of money with 'Thank you' in the notes. Nothing crazy and pretty rare, but its happened!
I am more than happy knowing that I have helped some one, thats cool enough for me😁
Job done! Thanks for the walkthrough 👍 What is that tool you used to get the pesky stud out??? I ended up just yanking it out
Thanks! If I remember right it was a 4.5 mm e torx socket
Thanx for that!
Cole you are now saving me about $200-$300 in labor. Thank you for this video. Best video on UA-cam. Question: 2is 250/350 same steps? I own a (350 08) / what was discouraging me from doing this was that nut behind the alternator, can you explain in words exactly how I could reach it? Before I go at it I just wanna make sure I won’t waste my time out there and stress out Lol. Extremely great video, God bless you!
Thats awesome to hear. Happy it was helpful. To my knowledge its the same process just on a bigger engine.
For the nut behind the alternator, I put a deep 12mm socket on a 4 inch extension. Then I placed it on the nut by hand. You can't see it, so you got to feel for it. Once the socket ajd extension is there, then I placed the ratchet on it and broke it free. Once it was free, I removed the ratchet and use the extension like a hand driver to remove the rest if the way. Reverse process for install.
Its the hardest part of this job for sure, best of luck!
@@Mechani_Cole Took a screen shot of ur response. Will follow those steps. Sorry another question: what alternator did you end up using? Do you know how well its held up til today? I’m considering the Amazon one you linked $260. I don’t want to pay OEM prices at the dealership I heard it ranges from $400-$600. I keep hearing Denso would be the best alternative.. For the timing belt would you say those are universal? Any solid brand would work? Thanks Cole for ur quick responses.
I beleieve we used the Denso one from the Ebay link. It worked great and still does, its my friends car and he has zero issues since. Most come with a warranty as well
Also, Danny, thats the serpentine belt or the alternator belt. Not the timing belt. Timing belt is behind the timing covers.
@@Mechani_Cole Ahhhh right on cole! Thank you so much. You sir have gained another subscriber. Keep creating content, you’re a perfect fit!
Hey man, I can’t thank you enough for making this awesome video! I got a new alternator for my Lexus IS 250 and I installed it all by myself thanks to you brother! BTW, I have a pretty decent set of tools to work on my car, however, I would like to buy that electric ratchet you used to loosen and tighten the short and long bolts that holds the alternator in place. Could you please tell me the name, brand and model of that tool?
Thanks for commenting! Here is the link to the one used in the video, these save a TON of time! - amzn.to/3RO9Ead
Here is the upgraded version that's even better - amzn.to/4841gcb
It's faster, stronger and lasts longer. Both are very solid. I've used mine for at least the last 6 years and it's still going strong
@@Mechani_Cole I totally agree with you. Its way faster and saves time. Can’t wait to buy it. Keep those awesome videos coming. Yours is by far the best video tutorial on UA-cam that shows step-by-step how to replace a new alternator on a Lexus IS 250. You should make another one showing how to remove and install the driver side banjo bolt that goes attached to the driver side valve cover, when replacing the valve cover gasket. I had to removed the ac line just to get that banjo bolt back in place. Is there any other way to do it without having to remove that ac line? You should make a video showing that part.
Yeah this guy is GOOD..but to avoid removing all the top components jack it up, removes the left front wheel, remove the 3 compressor bolts. move compressor to the side and you have EASY access to not only the 2 bolts holding the compressor, but an EASY shot at that 12mm on the bracket AND the alternator drops down and out easy...from the BOTTOM..
its HARD from the top because its MEANT to be for people who dont think thee might be another way when its too difficult. Toyota/Lexus NEVER make things hard for technicians when designing vehicles...knowing this when something IS hard you have to "Think Like Toyota"!
We are here to help each other!!
@HuChing-ob4kk that has to be sarcasm! "Toyota and lexus NEVER make anything difficult for the technician" is about one of the biggest lies I've heard. There is actually some very stupid Toyota designs that are difficult and unnecessary.
I'd be curious to see who does this job quicker with what technique. This job took me under an hour and I didn't have a jack a car up for no reason
@@Mechani_Cole FYI: I have worked in the automotive field for 20 years Toyoytas are an absolute BLAST to work on (even better than Hondas) because it feels like you are stealing...
You can FEEL what engineers think when you are working on these vehicles...Toyota engineers design these vehicles with the technician in mind..yes you CAN find a few models like the Previa Van or the earlier camrys that were headaches but as a WHOLE..Toyotas are EASY!!!
Back bracket 12 mm bolt is nut , pain to get here -.-
Thx for your great video , did change mine
Yeah, it's a pain in the ass. Probably the hardest part of the job
@@Mechani_Cole ....unless you jack the car!! Then you will SEE that bracket with easy access ...fromn the bottom!! lol
Please help ..2015 Lexus 250. . Where is 12mm nut behind alternator . Please help ..Thank you
Please watch video to find where bolt is. Thank you🤙🏼
Thank you very much
I found 12mm nut behind alternator very hard . I replacement new one . Thank you .
Good job, thanks for the comment🫡
Nice video. I did mine about a month ago and didn't put the bracket back on. It works fine and it's nice and snug. Do you think the bracket is absolutely necessary?
Yes, for long term use, I do think it is.
But can you get away without using it, most likely. As long as everything stays tight, it should be good.
I did mine this morning and missed the bracket, wish I would have watched this first! Mine only had the bracket, no bolt to the block. It was way easier to put the new alternator back in, I was wondering why. Haha
for anyone else wondering, I skipped the bracket and bolt on the back of the altenator as well because I finished everything else and that back bolt alone took me over 4 hours. 40k miles and 4 years later I am rewatching this video to install a new alternator. Think twice before skipping this bolt, although it could just be a coincidence
That stud you removed,is that an E6 size?
I think so, I used a 4.5 mm socket if I remember correctly
@@Mechani_Cole okey thnx dude,one more question.whats the estimated time you were busy changing the alternator,with like the basic handtools?
@rabin boedhoe This took me a little over an hour including setting up the camera and filming.
@@Mechani_Cole ahh nice,not so long as i thought..thnx for the info,and keep up the good work.i subbed.
Hi dude,is that bracket easy removable with just a hand ratel instead of an impact gun
erm...soo less than half an inch or so behind the rear bracket bolt there appears to be a brass 10mm drain bolt of some sort. in my haste - coupled with poor lighting conditions - I loosened it thinking it was the bracket bolt only to hear fluids running. looked under the car and saw red fluid coming out - is this transmission fluid? seems a little too forward of the tranny mating surface, but then again I am not sure if/how the tranny fluid circulates within the engine body.
It's likely coolant, should be able to tighten it back up and be good
Why does the Lexus have covers for the engine?
So it looks better
@@Mechani_Cole fair enough
Good video, but one thing I would like to point out. I learned the Hard way, you need to leave the bracket in the back of the alternator little bit loose so you can put all the bolts in and tight it up.
Correct, never tighten 1 bolt all the way without getting the others started first
Took me about 1.5hrs for this DIY job. A good amount spent on figuring out how to get to that damn bracket nut. There's barely any room to get your hand in there let alone trying to turn your ratchet after you do. I would recommend anyone to have a deep socket 12mm for that bracket nut because the stud sticks out too much for a regular socket.
its easy access if you jack the car up and remove the left front wheel...remove the 3 compressor bolts and just push it to the side..I probably shouldnt share this anymore so I can charge people hundreds to do this job!!
Mine just recently went out and was wondering how much do you think a mechanic would charge to replace mine?
Usually about $1200 or more where I am. Depending on where you go.
How long would you say it would take to do?
This depends completely on skill level. I can do this job in 2 hours or less on average. But several people struggle with the back bolt with the wrong tools and it takes 6-8 hours or more.
Thanks man helped me out a lot!!!
Glad it was helpful!
by the way great video ohhh it's not A/C condenser its a a/c compressor
This video really helped me out, thank you so much!
I am trying to get my alternator out of my is250 and can’t afford to take it to a shop. I got the bolts out but I still couldn’t get it to budge , help😭😭😭
Are all 3 bolts removed? Stick a screw driver in between the top when the long bolt goes and pry it towards you. Sometimes they get stuck. Once it wiggles, you'll need to pull it off the L shipped bracket in the back.
Let me know if you need more help🤙🏼
Just did this step by step, but my car doesn't turn on. Any idea on what I could be? There's power going through the battery but doesn't crank on
Does nothing happen at all? Is the ground and power hooked up proper? Maybe a fuse blew when connecting. Did you leave your battery unhooked? Also is your battery fully charged?
Im late for this but, check small wire that clips to rear of starter. Mine pulled 1/4 out of starter when I was removing alternater. Push in on small wire that connects to starter. Plastic Clip may be locked but small wire may have been pulled out when moving alternater around. Took me 2 days to figure this out after changing my Alternater. After so many miles Plastic clip also dry rot from heat of the engine. Thanks
Good tip right here👆🏼
Thanks for sharing🫡
Nice!
What cleaner did you use for the engine covers-? Need mine looking like this! 😁
@Ibrahim Ali Just used an interior cleaner and then finished with some quick shine. Here js a link for you - amzn.to/3Lc5Usn
Nice explanation....tomorrow I will take it to the mechanic Lol
What is the list of tools that you used???
does anybody had a problem with the alternator pulley after install the new alternator? when I start tighten the bolts the pulley get stuck. it does not moved back or forward.
Did you get this figured out? Are you talking about the tensioner? You shouldn't have had to touch the pulley itself.
Ive seen this before , make sure you havent over-tightened that pulley...if you overtighten it the bearings will be damaged and be no good...these parts arent expensive though. Dont overtighten and destroy the bearing..if it doesnt move it is overtighned. Here is a test for you...put the center bearing of the pulley between two fingers and spin it...does it move smooothly or does it feel rough and makes noise??!
The best video on this repair on UA-cam by far.👍🏾
Ayy! Appreciate that a lot, thank you✌🏽
Hell yeah. Just did this for the first time at work and removing that stud….genius. Thank you so much
@@Mechani_Cole Bro, i lost the nut that goes in the positive line of the alternator. Do you know the size or replacement for this????
Not off top, no. Can call a local dealership in the morning and they will have the exact mut you need though
@@Mechani_Cole Oh wow! That was quick "reply". I think im gonna have to do that. My battery was pretty much dead since i was running purely on battery to navigate right before my Alternator took a dump. So i decided to replace it put everything together then charged it to see if it would fire right up? I charged it enough to where the engine turned over and noticed what appeared like the alarm lights flickering then bam it fired up. To my surprise i had lost that nut that goes into the positive terminal on the Alternator. I figured what the heck right? Then i noticed like arching in the area where the nut is supposed to be? I let it run for another sec to see what happened then i just realized i could possibly due damage so i quickly killed the engine and unplugged the negative of the battery. I didnt want to take chances of messing anything up. So this is where im at with this repair??? Thanks for the quick reply.